efficient watering methods - sustainable gardening australia

Water Conservation Gardening 1

Approximately 25% of domestic water gets used in the garden. Some of this water can be saved by treating soil so that water can penetrate it, using mulch to stop water evaporating, and installing efficient irrigation and good garden design.

Give yourself a tick if you:

Have 50% or more of your garden planted with low water use plants

Have less than 50% of your garden area taken up by lawn

Have mulched all your garden beds and pots

Don’t have a lawn, or if you do, cut your lawn long (8-10cm) over summer

Water in the cool of the day

Water around the plant root zone with long, infrequent watering

Use a soaker hose or dripper system instead of sprays

Have either a timer on your taps or shut off valves on your hoses

Have a water tank for garden watering

Use Environmental Protection Authority approved techniques or systems to recycle greywater from the laundry and bathroom to the garden

Watering Score /10

Efficient watering methods

2 Water Conservation Gardening

Watering tips

6. Use a trigger nozzle to ensure you don’t waste water while moving around the garden. Always turn it off at the tap when you have finished in case the hose springs a leak.

7. If you are using a sprinkler use one that makes big drops of water rather than a fine mist which can be scattered by the wind or evaporate.

8. Use an inverted soft drink bottle to give slow constant watering to annuals, ferns and roses.

9. Position irrigation systems so that water does not fall on paths, patios, driveways or buildings.

10. Remember to reschedule your irrigation system for Winter and Summer conditions.

11. Use soil wetting agents to hold water in the soil longer and closer to the plants.

12. Use mulch on your garden beds.

1. Install a rainwater tank to suit your garden watering needs, the size of your house and the position of down pipes.

2. Check and clean your irrigation system every spring. An efficient irrigation system can save up to 46,000 litres of water in your garden each year.

3. Use a drip watering system or porous hose which cuts wastage by ensuring that the water only goes to where it is needed.

4. Avoid micro-sprays. They waste up to 70% water through drift and evaporation and if the soil is mulched, water will not penetrate to the soil.

5. Fit tap timers to make sure you don’t over-water and use rain and/or soil moisture sensors in your garden so that watering doesn’t occur automatically when it is wet.

13. Plant wind breaks to reduce the wind’s drying effects on your garden.

14. Group together plants with similar watering needs.

15. Choose local plants that have lower watering needs and suit drier conditions.

16. Remove weeds regularly as they compete with your plants and lawns for water.

17. Check the weather forecast to avoid watering before rain.

18. Stop water evaporating before it reaches your plant roots by watering in the early morning or late evening.


23. Use a pool cover. This helps to prevent evaporation (especially on windy days) and reduces the need to regularly top up your pool water level. Without a cover, over half of the water can evaporate in a year.

24. Do not empty your pool during winter. This can waste over 100,000 litres of water which could be treated without emptying.

Further Information

City West Water Efficient Irrigation Fact Sheet

Waterwise Gardening by Kevin Walsh

Waterwise House & Garden by Allan Windust

Water Efficient Garden by Wendy van Dok

www.citywestwater.com.au

www.sgaonline.org.au

www.savewater.com.au

19. Water your garden and lawn less often but more thoroughly. This will encourage your plants to extend their roots deeper into the soil, making them more drought resistant, hardier and less thirsty.

20. Target the root zone when watering your plants. There is no benefit to spraying the leaves and flowers, in fact on hot, sunny days you will cause damage.

21. Put an ice-cream container on your lawn or garden before you turn on your irrigation system. When the water in the container is 10mm deep, you have watered long enough. After you have watered, dig down to see how far it has penetrated. It should be at least 10cm.

22. Use a broom to clean paved surfaces such as driveways and paths and put the sweepings in your compost heap or use them as mulch.


Garden design

You may have a fairly traditional English-style garden with a large open lawn and flowerbeds of exotic plants around the outside. These types of gardens tend to need a lot of water and fertiliser.

You can gradually modify this style of garden to use less water. As the high water using plants die, replace them with plants that need less water. In autumn look at moving your plants around to ensure they are grouped according to their water needs. Gradually extend your garden beds to add interesting curves and reduce the water-thirsty lawn area. In hard-wearing areas, such as a BBQ or around the clothes line, think about replacing worn turf with a permeable gravel or paving.

If you are designing your garden from scratch you have a fantastic opportunity to create an interesting and vibrant water-smart garden. The garden design you choose will depend on many factors such as children, pets, if you entertain outdoors, or like to grow vegies.

When we establish our

garden, overall garden design is often the last thing

we think about when it should be the first. It is important and

fun to develop a plan of how you want your garden to look and feel, and think about how you

can reduce water use in your garden.


Think about your needs, the size of garden area you’d like, the type of plants you like from the point of view of foliage and flowers, the kind of surface you prefer and how much time you want to spend maintaining your garden. Consider the water conservation information in this booklet and incorporate as many aspects as is practical for you.

Take time to work out how you can create a garden that you feel comfortable with, you will enjoy and that suits your local soil and climate.


Have a plan of sun/shade, slope and soil variation in your garden

Have a rough planting plan that groups plants according to their water needs

Have less than 50% lawn

Have maximized the permeable surface e.g. replace concrete with gravel

Have designed your garden to have flow and interest to create appeal

Garden Design Score /5


1. List what you need (e.g. shed, washing line, kids swings, entertainment area) and what you want (e.g. vegie garden, shade area, pond, fruit trees).

2. Do a site analysis, (e.g. sun, shade, slope, privacy-all the problems that need solving) which will tell you what your site will let you do.

3. Do a scaled plan or mark out in the garden what will go where, practically and where it looks best. For example, placing a new shed in a shady corner, vegetables where they get full sun, a pond where it can be seen from inside the house, and a shade tree to the north of the house.

4. Find a style you like which suits your garden so all the paving, pots, water features, and plants match, especially in a courtyard garden.

5. Make beds bigger and lawns smaller. The best way to make bigger beds out of lawn space, is to mow the lawn low, cover with 8-10 sheets of newspaper (overlapping), put 10-15cm pea straw on top, wait 3-4 months and then plant directly into it. The grass should have all died. This must be done when the soil is moist, (autumn or winter). Plant before November or the following autumn.

Further Information

City West Water Garden Styles Fact Sheet

The Australian Garden by Diana Snape.

Beautiful Gardens with Less water by John Patrick

Bold Romantic Gardens by Oehme Van Swede

Browse through the library

Garden design tips


Caring for your soil

Healthy soil holds water in the root

zone where plants most need it. Healthy soil needs organic

matter (mulch, compost, manure, grass clippings). Worms break this down to

make food for plants and their burrows allow air into the soil so the plant roots can breath. Organic matter needs to be replaced

regularly as the worms eat it and plants absorb the nutrients. If organic matter

is not added, soil can become like concrete in the summer and turn

into a sticky mess in the winter.

Generally soils fall into three main structural types based on the size of grains – clay, loam and sand. The water holding capacity of a soil directly relates to the soil type.


Clay soils • Retain or hold nutrients and water

• May have poor drainage

• May have low aeration

• May be difficult to cultivate, but not always.

If you have clay soil, adding organic matter will improve it and you may want to add gypsum to help break it up. This not helps water gets in more easily, it also breaks up the crust that often forms and means water runs off the surface rather than soaks in.

Sandy soils• May have little organic matter

• Allow rapid infiltration and drainage of water

• Hold little water or nutrients

• Easy to cultivate

Sandy soils benefit greatly from the introduction of organic matter.

Loam soils• Thought to be ideal for growing pants

• Drain freely

• Hold moderate amounts of nutrients and water, but not always

Well-structured clays and sandy loams with lots of organic matter are the best soils for holding the largest amounts of water for plant growth.


Know your soil type

Regularly add organic matter to your soil

Have at least 3 worms in a spadeful of soil wherever you dig in the garden

Only dig your soil when you have to

Soil Score /4


Soil improvement tips

1. To improve your soil you need to know what type of soil you have. If you are not sure take a sample to your local garden center and they should be able to inform you of your soil type.

2. Don’t cultivate your soil unless it is very compacted after building works. Over-digging destroys the soil structure, therefore destroying the air holes and drainage spaces. This creates a ‘cloddy’ soil that is hard to work.

Further Information

The Natural Gardener by Jeffrey Hodges

Gardening Down-Under by Kevin Handreck


Compost and mulchMulching

performs a variety of functions in the garden.

Most importantly, it conserves soil moisture, reducing the

amount of water we need to apply to our gardens and pots. Compost

dug into your garden improves soil quality by helping to retain water, improving drainage and

encouraging worms and other micro flora and

fauna.


CompostCompost is one of the most affordable sources of organic matter available. You can create soil-enriching compost from such things as grass clippings, food scraps, newspapers and garden prunings.

Regularly digging either home made or commercial compost into your soil will greatly improve the ability of your soil to hold water as well as provide valuable nutrients for your plants.

Mulch Up to 73% of water can be evaporated from the soil on a hot day if you do not have a protective layer of mulch on top. Mulch has many beneficial effects. Not only does it help prevent water loss from the soil, but many mulches add nutrients to the soil as they break down and can help to suppress weed growth.

There are different types of mulch that should be used in different circumstances.

Generally peastraw and lucerne are best if you have not mulched the soil for a long time, as they break down quickly and it’s easier for the worms to eat. These mulches are also rich in nutrients and are ideal for vegie gardens.

Mulch with fine grade material has a tendency to clump and become water repellent.

After mulching don’t water your garden as often or you could drown your plants.


Hardwood chips with no fine particles are generally the best ground cover mulch as they allow good air flow and let water freely flow through to the ground below.


Use your compost as a fertiliser under mulch, mix it with potting mix in containers, use it on top of seed beds in the vegetable garden or stew it in water to make a liquid feed

Use a worm farm if you live in an apartment or have a small garden

Have mulched all your garden beds and pots

Check mulch levels and replace mulch every year to 8 -10cm deep

Know which are the best types of mulch for different types of plants

Know at least 3 good things mulch does to reduce maintenance

Compost/Mulch Score /6

Composting and mulch tips

4. The soil needs to be damp before you add mulch, so late spring (November) is the best time to put on mulch once the winter rains have soaked.

5. Local plants and natives like a relatively infertile soil so they prefer hardwood bark mulch once the soil has been improved with pea straw.

1. Your compost bin or heap should be on soil, not concrete, so it drains well and the worms and bacteria can enter the bin to decompose the waste.

2. All compost bins or heaps, need a balance of materials that:

• are high in nitrogen, such as blood & bone or chook manure.

• contain carbon, such as dried leaves or shredded newspapers.

• contain both carbon & nitrogen, such as kitchen scraps, pea straw and green garden prunings.

3. In addition, the compost heap or bin needs:

• water, but only enough so that the contents are moist but not wet.

• oxygen, from air, added by regularly turning over the contents of the heap.

• warmth, by putting it in a sunny place.

• to have easy access.

Further Information

City West Water Compost Made Easy Fact Sheet

City West Water Mulch Fact Sheet

Make your own Compost by Yvonne Cave

Gardening Down-Under by Kevin Handreck

The Natural Magic of Mulch by Michael J. Roads

www.ecorecycle.vic.gov.au



The domestic

wastewater that comes from the laundry and

bathroom is called ‘greywater’. Reusing wastewater from your bathroom and laundry on the

garden is an excellent way to save water and money and unlike

rainwater, it is available every time you shower or wash.

Greywater

Greywater is suitable for garden beds, lawns and fruit trees. Systems can be as simple as a flow diversion fitting and hose fed by gravity. There are also more complex systems that involve a sump tank with sub surface agipipe irrigation.

The type of greywater system you choose will vary depending on the shape and type of garden you have. Seek the advice of an irrigation consultant at a garden center.

Although kitchen water is technically termed ‘greywater’, it is not suitable to use on gardens because of the presence of particles of food and fats.

It is best to avoid irrigating gardens when the following are in your greywater: washing detergents with high phosphorous levels, bleaches and other disinfectants and fats (from soaps).

For health reasons if you are using greywater:

1. Don’t use nappy-wash water in greywater.

2. Don’t allow children to play with or in the greywater.

3. Don’t allow pets to drink greywater.

4. Use subsurface distribution such as porous hoses or drippers beneath a layer of mulch.

5. Avoid applying greywater to edible parts of vegetables.

6. Don’t allow greywater to leave your property.

7. Plumbing regulations state that all drainage and water supply work must be carried out by a licensed plumber.

For further information

www.epa.vic.gov.au



Low water use plants

There is a huge range of low water use plants for all types of gardens – from local indigenous plants, to Australian natives as well as plants from other parts of the world. As long as they are not environmental weeds, and have similar water and soil requirements, you can mix and match a large variety of plants to create a diverse and interesting garden.

Native Plants: A wide range of Australian native plants are suited to dry conditions and a reasonable range of soil types. These include Eucalypts, Wattles, Banksias, Bottlebrushes (Callistemon spp), Grevilleas, Native fushias (Correa spp), and Kangaroo paws (Anigozanthus spp). These plants work well in any garden and are great for attracting birds and butterflies.

Indigenous Plants: are local plants suited to the local soil and climate. They do not require large amounts of nutrients and once established, little water. There are many beautiful plants local to Melbourne’s inner and western suburbs. Many of these plants offer shelter and are important food sources for local birds, insects, reptiles and animals. Examples include: Purple coral pea (Hardenbergia violacea), Creeping bossiaea (bossiaea prostrata), Cut-leaf daisy (Brachyscome multifida) and Tufted bluebells (Wahlenbergia communis).

Succulent and foliage pants: These plants have become extremely popular during the last few years as we all try to conserve water. They do well in containers and in contemporary style gardens. Some great examples include Yuccas, Cycads, Agaves, Escheverias, and various Flax.

Grey leaf plants: Plants with grey or silvery leaves cope well with heat and drought as well as adding foliage and texture variation in a garden. Examples include Lavenders (but not Italian lavender as it is an environmental weed), Westringia, Lambs ears (Stachys byzantina) and Bearded iris.


Give yourself a tick if you

Have more than 50% of your garden planted with low water use plants

Have made a planting plan for a new or established garden to suit low water use plants

Have reduced your lawn area to less than 50% of total garden area

Have grouped your plants according to their water, sun and nutrient needs

Regularly observe native birds, reptiles, insects and animals in your garden

Plant Score /5

Plant tips

1. Autumn is the ideal time to plant. Never plant in summer.

2. There is a tree to fit every size garden. Trees provide shade, leaves for mulch, habitat for wildlife, produce oxygen and use up carbon dioxide, and can provide fruit. If possible plant a native or indigenous tree.

3. Native, indigenous and exotics can be used together to create successful gardens, but care is needed at the planning stage.


Further Information

City West Water Planting Over Easements Fact Sheet

City West Water Garden Styles Fact Sheet

Grow What Where by Australian Plant Study Group

Australian Plants for Mediterranean Climate Gardens by Rodger Elliot


Your local council may be able to provide you with a plant list of Local Indigenous Plants.

Lawn and alternatives

You may want to consider a native grass lawn. One of the most successful native grasses that creates the look of a traditional lawn is weeping grass (Microlaena stipoides). It can be mown regularly and will grow well in a wide range of soils. Weeping grass is drought, frost and shade tolerant, but does not cope with heavy traffic or dog urine. It is excellent for a front lawn and can be grown from seed or plugs.

If you like clumps of tussocky grasses then kangaroo grass (Themeda triandra), Wallaby grass (Austrodanthonia spp.) and common tussock grass (Poa spp.) are great alternatives.

You can also use groundcover plants that form dense mats, don’t require mowing and perform well in the shade. Examples include: kidney plant (Dichondra repens), creeping boobialla (Myoporum parvifolia) and native mint (Mentha diemenica).

Or you may prefer to do away with a lawn/plant alternative altogether. Lawn areas can be replaced with gravel, granitic sand, pavers or mulch chips. If you are laying pavers, it is important to direct water onto garden beds or keep it on site by planting mondo grass for example, in between pavers. There are also permeable pavers on the market that allow water to seep through the paver to the soil below.

Traditional

turf lawns are often high water users and

can look unsightly during water restrictions and times of low-rainfall. There are a number of traditional lawn turfs that are relatively low

water users including Sir Walter Buffalo.


Water conservation gardening score card


Conduct a sustainability audit on your garden by counting up the number of ticks you have achieved for each section and add up your total. Make a note of what you have to do to score more ticks in 6 months and 12 months time. You can then start working towards making your garden more sustainable.

Section Now 6 months 12 months

Garden Design (5)

Watering (10)

Soil (4)

Compost & Mulch(5)

Plants (5)

Total (25)

Your notes



For more information please contact City West Water:

City West Water Ltd. ABN 70 066 902 467 247-251 St Albans Rd Sunshine VIC 3020

Account and General Enquiries: 131 691 Emergencies (24 hours): 1800 132 642 or 13WATER Interpreter Service: 131 450

efficient watering methods - sustainable gardening australia

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