elevate interview

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42 | | 43 Z Poslužite se / Dine&Wine Ako bismo morali u dve reči da opišemo dalmatinsku kuhinju, onda bi to zvučalo ovako – skromno, a luksuzno. Na ovo putovanje vodi vas master šef Maja Mačković, šef kuhinje hvarskog restorana Zlatna školjka Brodet je autentični dalmatinski specijalitet. Sprema se od morskih plodova, crnog vina i paradajza Brodet is an authentic Dalmatian speciality. It is prepared from seafood, ride wine and tomatoes Imagine the simplest “meal” from the sea: fet- icu fish under lemon. To the eye, an impersonal piece of fish, sprinkled with lemon juice, seasoned with sea salt, pepper, a pinch of oregano, heavily soaked in ol- ive oil. Now close your eyes and imagine the taste. Sit on the prow of a boat, tired from the sun and salt, fish dances on your tongue in the shade of olive trees, and in front of you is the sea, in its fullness and free- dom. While you chew that morsel, you feel as though you are a child again, you run barefoot at dusk along a stone wall beside the sea, while crickets accompany you with their song on the last dive that you want to do in secret because your gran has been calling out of the window to you for half an hour. Or you very liter- ally feel history on your tongue. The heavily wounded hands of fishermen who extract a net filled with fish, blisters on the fingers of a labourer, who seemingly with a look simply processes his olives and his wife, who pulls out of her apron a fresh sprig of oregano to flavour a modest dish for him at the end of the day. That’s Dalmatia for you, a planet for itself. Are you getting hungry? Take it slowly; things are just starting to simmer. This is what it’s like when master chef Maja Mačković speaks. She reacts to the world around her with her entire being. That’s pre- sumably because she grew up on the island of Hvar, spending her summers in Komiža, running naked and barefoot on the rocks, free and carefree. She is amislite najjednostavnije „jelo“ iz mora: feti- cu ribe pod limun. Naoko, bezličan komadić ribe, pošprican limunovim sokom, začinjen morskom soli, paprom, prstohvatom ori- gana, obilato natopljen maslinovim uljem. Sada zatvorite oči i zamislite okuse. Sjedite na pro- vi broda, umorni od sunca i soli, na jeziku vam ple- šu ribe, u hladu stabla masline, a pred vama je more, u svojoj punini i slobodi. Dok žvaćete taj zalogaj, osjećate kako ste opet dijete, u smiraj dana bosono- go trčite kamenom ogradom mora, dok vas zrikav- ci svojom pjesmom prate na zadnji uron kojeg želite odraditi skrivečki jer vas nona već pola sata dozi- va sa prozora. Ili pak vrlo doslovno osjećate povijest na jeziku. Teške ranjene ruke ribara koji izvlači mre- žu punu riba, žuljeve na prstima težaka, koji samo naoko jednostavno obrađuje svoje masline, i njego- vu ženu, koja iz pregače vadi svježu grančicu origa- na da mu na kraju dana začini skromno jelo. To vam je Dalmacija, planeta za sebe. Da li ste ogladneli? Polako, stvar tek počinje da se krčka. Tako je to kad govori master šef Maja Mačko- vić. Ona na svet oko sebe reaguje celim bićem. Valjda zato što je odrasla na Hvaru, a leta provodila u Komi- ži trčeći gola i bosa po stenama, slobodna i bezbri- žna. Ćerka čuvenog hrvatskog kuvara, svetskog ma- ster šefa Ivana Buzolića. Odmalena se divila očevim magičnim pokretima za šporetom, a u sedmoj godini već je počela da radi u porodičnom restoranu Zlatna školjka: „Stavili su mi prvu pregaču i dozvolili da pro- lijevam gostima juhe u krilo“. I od tada svako leto pro- vodi na Hvaru u očevoj kuhinji. Zapravo, danas je ona šef, a restoran jedan od najboljih u Hrvatskoj. –Ja sam vječno dijete koje voli istraživati, igra- ti se i biti sretno u tome što radi. Presretna sam jer radim u svom prostoru, malom obiteljskom restora- nu. Naši jelovnici nisu unaprijed definirani, već ovi- se o dnevnoj ponudi na tržnici, mojoj inspiraciji i že- ljama gostiju. ZA MARENDU ŠPAGETA S IKROM JEŽA Uvodi nas u dalmatinsku kuhinju slikom. Tera nas da zažmurimo i da doživimo jela koja pominje. Kuhi- nja iz ovog dela sveta divna je zbog svoje jednostav- nosti, mada je u isti mah i vrlo luksuzna. Dominiraju tri ukusa – so, maslinovo ulje i aromatično bilje. – Postoji priča da su Dalmatinci lenji, znate onu „klapa sjedi ispod masline i pjeva joj da je neobrana“. Međutim, tradicionalni Dalmatinac počinjao je dan vrlo rano bez klasičnog doručka, pa mu je prvi pravi obrok bila čuvena marenda, između 9 i 10 sati. Bio je to skup takozvanih malih jela koja su se brzo spremala. – Srdela na ražnju, priljepak na buzaru, špageta s DALMACIJA, SA MIRISOM MORA I UKUSOM SOLI DALMATIA, WITH THE SENT OF THE SEA AND THE TASTE OF SALT If we had to describe Dalmatian cuisine in short, then it would be like this – modest, but luxurious. We are led on this journey by master chef Maja Mačković, head chef of the Hvar restaurant “Zlatna školjka” (Golden Shell) Tekst / Words: Katarina Sretenović Fotografije / Photography: Tomislav Mačković, FoodCollection POSLUŽITE SE DINE & WINE

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Page 1: Elevate interview

42 | | 43

ZPoslužite se / Dine&Wine

Ako bismo morali u dve reči da opišemo dalmatinsku kuhinju, onda bi to zvučalo ovako – skromno, a luksuzno. Na ovo putovanje vodi vas master šef Maja Mačković, šef kuhinje hvarskog restorana Zlatna školjka

Brodet je autentični dalmatinski specijalitet. Sprema se od morskih plodova, crnog vina i paradajza

Brodet is an authentic Dalmatian speciality. It is prepared from seafood, ride wine and tomatoes

Imagine the simplest “meal” from the sea: fet-icu fish under lemon. To the eye, an impersonal piece of fish, sprinkled with lemon juice, seasoned with sea salt, pepper, a pinch of oregano, heavily soaked in ol-ive oil. Now close your eyes and imagine the taste. Sit on the prow of a boat, tired from the sun and salt, fish dances on your tongue in the shade of olive trees, and in front of you is the sea, in its fullness and free-dom. While you chew that morsel, you feel as though you are a child again, you run barefoot at dusk along a stone wall beside the sea, while crickets accompany you with their song on the last dive that you want to do in secret because your gran has been calling out of the window to you for half an hour. Or you very liter-ally feel history on your tongue. The heavily wounded hands of fishermen who extract a net filled with fish, blisters on the fingers of a labourer, who seemingly with a look simply processes his olives and his wife, who pulls out of her apron a fresh sprig of oregano to flavour a modest dish for him at the end of the day. That’s Dalmatia for you, a planet for itself.

Are you getting hungry? Take it slowly; things are just starting to simmer. This is what it’s like when master chef Maja Mačković speaks. She reacts to the world around her with her entire being. That’s pre-sumably because she grew up on the island of Hvar, spending her summers in Komiža, running naked and barefoot on the rocks, free and carefree. She is

amislite najjednostavnije „jelo“ iz mora: feti-cu ribe pod limun. Naoko, bezličan komadić ribe, pošprican limunovim sokom, začinjen morskom soli, paprom, prstohvatom ori-gana, obilato natopljen maslinovim uljem.

Sada zatvorite oči i zamislite okuse. Sjedite na pro-vi broda, umorni od sunca i soli, na jeziku vam ple-šu ribe, u hladu stabla masline, a pred vama je more, u svojoj punini i slobodi. Dok žvaćete taj zalogaj, osjećate kako ste opet dijete, u smiraj dana bosono-go trčite kamenom ogradom mora, dok vas zrikav-ci svojom pjesmom prate na zadnji uron kojeg želite odraditi skrivečki jer vas nona već pola sata dozi-va sa prozora. Ili pak vrlo doslovno osjećate povijest na jeziku. Teške ranjene ruke ribara koji izvlači mre-žu punu riba, žuljeve na prstima težaka, koji samo naoko jednostavno obrađuje svoje masline, i njego-vu ženu, koja iz pregače vadi svježu grančicu origa-na da mu na kraju dana začini skromno jelo. To vam je Dalmacija, planeta za sebe.

Da li ste ogladneli? Polako, stvar tek počinje da se krčka. Tako je to kad govori master šef Maja Mačko-vić. Ona na svet oko sebe reaguje celim bićem. Valjda zato što je odrasla na Hvaru, a leta provodila u Komi-ži trčeći gola i bosa po stenama, slobodna i bezbri-žna. Ćerka čuvenog hrvatskog kuvara, svetskog ma-ster šefa Ivana Buzolića. Odmalena se divila očevim magičnim pokretima za šporetom, a u sedmoj godini već je počela da radi u porodičnom restoranu Zlatna školjka: „Stavili su mi prvu pregaču i dozvolili da pro-lijevam gostima juhe u krilo“. I od tada svako leto pro-vodi na Hvaru u očevoj kuhinji. Zapravo, danas je ona šef, a restoran jedan od najboljih u Hrvatskoj.

–Ja sam vječno dijete koje voli istraživati, igra-ti se i biti sretno u tome što radi. Presretna sam jer radim u svom prostoru, malom obiteljskom restora-nu. Naši jelovnici nisu unaprijed definirani, već ovi-se o dnevnoj ponudi na tržnici, mojoj inspiraciji i že-ljama gostiju.

ZA MARENDU ŠPAGETA S IKROM JEŽA

Uvodi nas u dalmatinsku kuhinju slikom. Tera nas da zažmurimo i da doživimo jela koja pominje. Kuhi-nja iz ovog dela sveta divna je zbog svoje jednostav-nosti, mada je u isti mah i vrlo luksuzna. Dominiraju tri ukusa – so, maslinovo ulje i aromatično bilje.

– Postoji priča da su Dalmatinci lenji, znate onu „klapa sjedi ispod masline i pjeva joj da je neobrana“. Međutim, tradicionalni Dalmatinac počinjao je dan vrlo rano bez klasičnog doručka, pa mu je prvi pravi obrok bila čuvena marenda, između 9 i 10 sati.

Bio je to skup takozvanih malih jela koja su se brzo spremala.

– Srdela na ražnju, priljepak na buzaru, špageta s

DALMACIJA,SA MIRISOM MORA

I UKUSOM SOLI DALMATIA, WITH THE SENT OF

THE SEA AND THE TASTE OF SALT

If we had to describe Dalmatian cuisine in short, then it would be like this – modest, but luxurious. We are led on this journey by master chef Maja Mačković, head chef of the Hvar restaurant “Zlatna školjka” (Golden Shell)

Tekst / Words: Katarina Sretenović Fotografije / Photography: Tomislav Mačković, FoodCollection

POSLUŽITE SEDINE & WINE

Page 2: Elevate interview

44 | | 45

Poslužite se / Dine&Wine

ikrom ježa, pečenih volaka i mušu-la, janjeće ili jareće jetrice na kiselo, kuhanog janjećeg ili jarećeg vrata, kuhane govedine iz prvog vrenja...

Nedavno je za potrebe jed-nog projekta Maja proučavala tra-dicionalni meni iz vremena kad je Hvar bio pod Venecijom. Provela je dane i dane čitajući zapise iz tog vremena. Tako je naletela na inte-resantnu priču o dolasku bakalara.

– Pjetro Kvirini se 1431, pre-vozeći na sjever teret bačvi pu-nih malvazije, nasukao na Lofot-skom otočju. Prisiljen provesti zimu s lokalnim stanovništvom jer je njegov brod doživio havari-ju, naterao ga je da nauči pripre-mati bakalar. Toliko ga je oduše-vio da se u Serenisimu vratio s punim tovarom, ponosan kao da dovozi najveće blago. Nakon po-četne averzije uzrokovane neu-godnim mirisom bakalar je, osim na brodovima, vrlo brzo zasjeo i na stolove venecijanskih gurma-na. Pripremajući ga po Kvirini-jevim uputama, naučenih od po-tomaka Vikinga, suhi bakalar se kao delicija proširio po cijelom Mediteranu.

HLADNI PRSTI VETRA ŠIBAJU PRŠUTU

Hvar je vekovima bio deo Ve-necije. Kao glavna tranzitna luka bio je izložen mnogim dobrima o kojima je ostatak Evrope mogao samo da sanja. Do njega su do-lazile vredne stvari poput svile i začina – bibera, šafrana, muskat-nog oraha… Postao je začetnik bogate kuhinje kakvu poznaje-mo danas.

– Najpoznatije jelo jeste gre-gada: riblji specijalitet koji se do prije tridesetak godina pripremao isključivo u gradu Hvaru, a u me-đuvremenu je postao brend hrvat-ske gastronomije. Osim toga, tu je brujet (brodet). Vrlo slično jelo koje se priprema od morskih plo-dova, crnog vina i rajčice, te neza-obilazna buzara, koja se sprema s puno češnjaka, rajčicom i bije-lim vinom.

U kontekstu tradicionalne Dal-macije nemoguće je izostaviti i pa-šticadu, to jest goveđi pirjanac.

– U bodulskoj Dalmaciji, is-ključivo s krumpirovim njokima, priprema se uz najveće privatne i društvene fešte, a interesantno

je spomenuti da ne samo da sva-ki dalmatinski grad ima svoju ina-čicu već svako domaćinstvo ima svoj unikatni recept.

Osim toga, i dalmatinska pršu-ta nadaleko je čuvena.

– Netko će drugi možda ima-ti realno, znanstveno objašnje-nje temeljeno na faktima, među-tim, meni je dovoljno zatvoriti oči i zamisliti hladne, dalmatinske bure. Živote i memorije koje, noše-ne vjetrom, šibaju pršute, obješe-ne same na nekom tavanu. Hladne prste vjetra koji agresivno probija-ju pore i klize vlaknima proteina, kradući im vodu i život. Okus ta-kvog mesa na kraju procesa ne da se opisati riječima.

the daughter of famous Croatian world master chef Ivan Buzolić.

From her earliest days she ad-mired her father’s magic motion around the stove, and at the age of seven she already started working at the family restaurant “Golden Shell”: “They put my first apron on and allowed me to spill soup into guests’ laps”. And since then she has spent every summer on the is-land of Hvar in her father’s kitch-en. In fact, today she is the boss, and the restaurant is one of the best in Croatia.

– I am an eternal child who loves to explore, play and be hap-py in what I do. I am delighted that I work in my place, a small family restaurant. Our menus are not predefined, but rather depend on the daily offer at the market, my inspiration and the desires of guests.

SPAGHETTI WITH URCHIN ROE FOR BRUNCH

She introduces us to Dalma-tian cuisine with an image. She urges us to close our eyes and to

experience the dishes that she mentions. The cuisine of this part of the world is beautiful because of its simplicity, although at the same time it is very luxurious. Three flavours dominate – salt, ol-ive oil and herbs.

- There is a story that Dalma-tians are lazy, you know how they say “the gang sits under the olive tree and sings to it instead of pick-ing”. However, the traditional Dal-matian began the day very ear-ly, without a classic breakfast, so his first real meal was the famous brunch, between 9 and 10 o’clock.

That was a collection of so-called small dishes that were pre-pared quickly.

- Sardines on a skewer, patel-la limpets on bouzzara, spaghet-ti with urchin roe, baked Sea snail and mussels, sour lamb or goat liver, cooked lamb or young goat neck, cooked beef from the first boiling ...

Recently, for the purposes of a project, Maja studied tradition-al menus from the times when Hvar was under Venetian rule. She spent many days reading the re-cords of that period. And thus she came across an interesting story about the arrival of cod.

- It was in 1431 when Pietro Quirino, transporting barrels full of malvasia grapes to the north, found himself stranded on the Lo-foten Islands. Forced to spend the winter with the local population, with his boat having broken down, he was urged to learn to prepare cod. He was so thrilled to be back

in the Serenissima with a full load, proud as though he was bringing the greatest treasure. After an in-itial aversion caused by the un-pleasant smell of cod, except for aboard ships, it very quickly found

its way onto the tables of Venetian gourmets. Preparing it according to Quirino’s instructions, which he learned from the descendants of the Vikings, dry cod spread as a delicacy around the entire Medi-terranean basin and has remained to this day.

Hvar for centuries was part of the Venetian Republic. As the main transit port, it was exposed to many goods about which the rest of Europe could only dream. Arriving there were valuable items like silk and spices – pepper, saf-fron, nutmeg... And thus it be-came a pioneer of the rich cuisine that we know today.

- The most famous dish is Gre-gada broth: a fish speciality that was prepared only in the town of Hvar until thirty years ago, but which in the meantime has be-come a brand of Croatian gastron-omy. Apart from that, there is also brujet (brodetto fish stew). A very similar dish that is prepared from seafood, red wine and tomatoes, forming an irresistible stew that is prepared with lots of cloves of gar-lic, tomatoes and white wine.

COLD FINGERS OF WIND WHIP CURED HAM

In the context of traditional Dalmatia it is also impossible to omit Pašticada beef stew.

- In Bodulian Dalmatia, exclu-sively with potato gnocchi, it is prepared at the largest private and community festivals, and it is in-teresting to note that not only does every Dalmatian city have its own version, but rather each household also has its own unique recipe.

In addition to that, Dalmatian smoked ham is well-known far and wide.

- Someone else might have a realistic, scientific explanation based on facts, but for me it is enough to close my eyes and im-agine the cool, Dalmatian barrels. Lives and memories that are car-ried by the wind whip the cured hams, which hang alone in some attic. Cold fingers of wind aggres-sively penetrate the pores and glide over the fibre of protein, stealing their water and life. The taste of such meat at the end of the process does not allow itself to be described in words.

Pašticada se sprema s njokama od krompira,

a interesantno je da svaka kuća ima svoj

unikatni recept Pašticada is prepared with potato gnocchi,

and interestingly every household has its own

unique recipe

Gregada je najpoznatije dalmatinsko jelo. Sastoji se od sveže ribe, krompira, belog vina i začina Gregada is the most famous Dalmatian dish. It consists of fresh fish, potatoes, white wine and herbs

KO JE MAJA MAČKOVIĆ?Ne volim etikete i ne dozvoljavam da me se trpa u ladice. Stručna sam u nekoliko profesija, imam puno hobija, za-nimacija i strasti. Teško je nabrojati što sve radim i volim, pa ću spomenuti samo ono što me najduže prati: druš-tvene mreže, fotografija, kuhinja, slikanje, izrada nakita i pisanje. Uvijek su mi u ruci nekakva špatula, kist, kliješta ili penkala, te iz tih domena proizlazi najviše mojih krea-cija. Strahovito sam senzibilna, osjetljiva na nepravdu, pa koristim kreiranje kao filter pomoću kojeg izbacujem tu-gu, a zadržavam samo pozitivno. Iako sam svjesna da me mnogi opravdano zovu umjetnikom, teško mi je sebe po-častiti tom riječju jer ona ipak nosi golemu težinu i odgo-vornost, pa to ostavljam za „jednom kad odrastem“.

WHO IS MAJA MAČKOVIĆ?I don’t like labels and I don’t allow for me to be stuffed in a drawer. I am an expert in several professions; I have in-finitely many hobbies, interests and passions. It is difficult to list everything that I do and love, so I will mention that which has been with me for the longest: social media, photography, cuisine, painting, jewellery making and wri-ting. I always have in my hand some sort of spatula, bru-sh, tongs or pen, thus most of my creation derives from those domains. I have terrible sensibilities; I’m sensitive to the injustice, so I use my creativity as an outlet, or a fil-ter which helps me to discard sadness and only hold on to the positive. Although I am aware that many justifiably call me an artist, I find it difficult to honour myself with this word, because that actually carries a huge weight of responsibility, so I leave that for “once I grow up”.

Nadaleko čuvena

dalmatinska pršuta

Well-known Dalmatian

smoked ham