EMOTIONAL DURABILITY STRATEGIES AND FUTURE INTEGRATION –

A CASE STUDY

Thesis Number: 2021.7.05

Thesis for Two year Master, 30 ECTS

Textile Management

Michelle Bjerregaard Jensen

I

Title: Emotional Durability– Strategies and Future Integration – A Case Study

Publication year: 2021

Author: Michelle Bjerregaard Jensen

Supervisor: Rudrajeet Pal

Acknowledgement

Firstly, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the interviewees, who allocated precious

time and effort to contribute to the realisation of this thesis. Their insights and perspective

regarding the topic of emotional durability added valuable depth to my research and challenged

my perception of the topic. Secondly, I would like to thank my supervisor, Rudrajeet Pal, who

guided me and shared knowledge to improve my thesis and make it the best possible version. I

would also like to express my sincere appreciation to my seminar-group who provided me with

continuous feedback throughout the process, being able to share ideas and follow the process

of your thesis gave me valuable insights to better my own research.

Thank you, Emilio! who stood by me throughout with encouraging words and a continuous

effort in keeping my spirits high through what sometimes felt like a very uphill battle.

And last but definitely not least, I am beyond thankful for my family of friends who rooted on

me from afar. You encouraged me to keep going even in difficult times.

I sincerely hope that this thesis can spark further discussion and interest in the topic of emotional

durability.

II

Abstract

Background – Design for longevity stand in strong contrast to the dominant model of fast fashion, where

mass-production, low prices and poor quality is the characteristics. The fast-paced model is linked to

environmental degradation and there is a need for a systemic change in the system. Design for longevity has

been identified as one of the most effective means to reduce environmental impacts, however there are

significant gaps in knowledge in relation to garment longevity and its integration within fashion brands. As

the active lifetimes of garments are decreasing, resulting in a truck full of textiles and clothing reaching

landfill evert second (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). This shows that consumers have fleeting

relationships with their garment and product attachment has decreased, which shows that there is a need for

strategies that facilitate product attachment to help facilitate more circularity within textiles and clothing.

Emotional durability has been highlighted as an approach to design for longevity, it’s a new research area

that tries to understand the complex interchange between consumption, the meaning of products and

relationships between people and products. Emotional durability focuses on ways to prolong the use of

products to extend the lifetimes and thereby decreasing the need for early garment replacement.

Purpose – This study focuses on understanding the phenomenon of emotional durability and its integration

possibilities in textiles and clothing companies. The purpose for this thesis is to expand on current knowledge

on emotional durability from a brand perspective, through highlighting the challenges and enablers for

emotional durability. Using design thinking to understand it’s integration potential, through collaboration

and iterative feedback loops to push innovation and build resilience into product-user relationships.

Methodology – The research was conducted using a single case study with an abductive approach. The

research builds on the theoretical perspective of IDEO (nd) design thinking theory. Semi-structured

interviews with a Swedish fashion and lifestyle company, including employees within the design,

sustainability, quality and communications departments provided the basis for collecting primary data. The

primary data was supplemented with secondary data which included website articles, sustainability reports

and internal documents. The data was analysed qualitatively through thematic content analysis which was

triangulated.

Findings – The results of the study, shows that emotional durability can be enabled through a range of

strategies including personalisation, transparency, graceful ageing, functionality. These strategies can be

supported by services provided by brands, where communicative education plays a supporting role in helping

build relationship which can ensure better product retention. The results further highlighted that using design

thinking theory can help overcome some of the challenges that was found within emotional durability.

Through continuous collaboration both across departments, but also with stakeholders and competitors a

knowledge sharing platform can be built, which can ensure better opportunities within emotional durability

and thereby designing for longevity.

Practical implications and research limitations - This research contributes to creating new insight

into a relatively unexplored area, emotional durability from a brand perspective and the integration through

the use of strategies and services. Thus, aiding brands to gain more understanding in the integration and

thereby providing solutions that can facilitate longevity. The study is limited by the choice of case-company,

which is a Swedish Fashion and lifestyle company.

Keywords: Emotional durability, Longevity, Product Attachment, Design Thinking, Sustainability

III

Table of Contents

List of Figures ................................................................................................................ - 1 -

List of Tables ................................................................................................................. - 1 -

List of Abbreviations ..................................................................................................... - 1 -

1 Introduction .......................................................................................................... - 2 -

1.1 Background .............................................................................................................. - 2 -

1.2 Problem Discussion .................................................................................................. - 3 -

1.3 Research Gap ........................................................................................................... - 4 -

1.4 Research Purpose & Questions ................................................................................. - 5 -

1.5 Delimitations ........................................................................................................... - 6 -

1.6 Thesis Structure ....................................................................................................... - 7 -

2 Literature Review .................................................................................................. - 9 -

2.1 Design for Longevity ................................................................................................. - 9 -

2.2 Emotional durability ................................................................................................ - 10 -

2.3 Person-Product Relationship.................................................................................... - 12 -

2.4 Frameworks for emotional durability ....................................................................... - 14 - 2.4.1 Six-point framework ................................................................................................................... - 14 - 2.4.2 Emotional durability Design Nine ............................................................................................... - 15 -

2.5 Strategies for Emotional Durability .......................................................................... - 16 - 2.5.1 Dependability & Physical durability ............................................................................................ - 16 - 2.5.2 Customisation & Personalisation & Co-Creation........................................................................ - 16 - 2.5.3 Flexible & Modular Design.......................................................................................................... - 17 - 2.5.4 Gracefully ageing ........................................................................................................................ - 18 - 2.5.5 Maintenance & Repair ................................................................................................................ - 19 - 2.5.6 Transparency & Traceability ....................................................................................................... - 20 -

2.6 Summary ................................................................................................................ - 21 -

3 Theoretical Framework ........................................................................................ - 22 -

3.1 Motivation for the use of Design Thinking ................................................................ - 22 -

3.2 Design Thinking ....................................................................................................... - 22 -

3.3 Design Thinking theory in the context of Textile & Clothing ...................................... - 26 -

4 Methodology ....................................................................................................... - 27 -

4.1 Research Design ...................................................................................................... - 27 - 4.1.1 Research Strategy – the Case Study ........................................................................................... - 27 -

4.2 Scientific Reasoning ................................................................................................. - 28 -

4.3 Data Collection ........................................................................................................ - 29 - 4.3.1 Sampling method and case selection ......................................................................................... - 29 - 4.3.2 The case-company ...................................................................................................................... - 30 - 4.3.3 Primary Data ............................................................................................................................... - 30 - 4.3.4 Secondary Data ........................................................................................................................... - 32 -

IV

4.4 Data Analysis .......................................................................................................... - 34 -

4.5 Research Quality ..................................................................................................... - 37 - 4.5.1 Construct Validity ....................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.2 Internal Validity .......................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.3 External Validity .......................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.4 Reliability .................................................................................................................................... - 39 - 4.5.5 Ethical Considerations ................................................................................................................ - 39 -

5 Findings ............................................................................................................... - 40 -

5.1 Challenges............................................................................................................... - 40 - 5.1.1 Current Fashion Cycle ................................................................................................................. - 40 - 5.1.2 Consumer Mindset ..................................................................................................................... - 41 - 5.1.3 Individuality ................................................................................................................................ - 42 -

5.2 Enablers .................................................................................................................. - 43 - 5.2.1 Physical durability ....................................................................................................................... - 43 - 5.2.2 Fit ................................................................................................................................................ - 44 - 5.2.3 Communication .......................................................................................................................... - 45 - 5.2.4 Approaches to ED ....................................................................................................................... - 47 -

5.3 Integration .............................................................................................................. - 49 - 5.3.1 Creating a change ....................................................................................................................... - 49 - 5.3.2 Collaboration and co-creation .................................................................................................... - 50 - 5.3.3 Role of the designer .................................................................................................................... - 52 -

5.4 Conceptual Framework for Emotional Durability ...................................................... - 54 -

5.5 Summary of Key Findings ......................................................................................... - 55 -

6 Discussion............................................................................................................ - 57 -

6.1 Challenges for Emotional Durability ......................................................................... - 57 - 6.1.1 Stuck in an stagnate system ....................................................................................................... - 57 - 6.1.2 Consumer Mindset ..................................................................................................................... - 58 - 6.1.3 Individuality ................................................................................................................................ - 59 -

6.2 Enablers for Emotional Durability ............................................................................ - 59 - 6.2.1 Physical durability ....................................................................................................................... - 59 - 6.2.2 Communicative Tools for emotional durability .......................................................................... - 60 - 6.2.3 Core strategies for emotional durability .................................................................................... - 61 -

6.3 Integration of emotional durability .......................................................................... - 62 -

7 Conclusion ........................................................................................................... - 65 -

7.1 Theoretical implication ............................................................................................ - 65 -

7.2 Practical Implications .............................................................................................. - 66 -

7.3 Limitations and Future Research .............................................................................. - 67 -

8 References ........................................................................................................... - 68 -

9 Appendix ............................................................................................................. - 74 -

9.1 Appendix 1 .............................................................................................................. - 74 -

9.2 Appendix 2 – Glossary for sub-themes ..................................................................... - 81 -

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List of Figures

Figure 1 – The Three Levels of Design – Adapted from Norman (2004)............................- 13 - Figure 2 – DT adapted from IDEO (nd) ...............................................................................- 24 - Figure 3 – The five-stage research process model adapted from Stuart et al. (2002) ..........- 28 - Figure 4 – Framework for emotional durability .................................................................- 54 -

List of Tables

Table 1 – Overview of the structure of the thesis...................................................................- 8 - Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED .........................................................................................- 20 - Table 3 – Design Thinking 5-step process and parameters ..................................................- 25 - Table 4 – Overview of Participants and their role within the company .............................- 32 - Table 5 – Overview of Secondary data collected ...............................................................- 33 - Table 6 – Six phases of thematic analysis, adapted from (Nowell et al. 2017) .................- 35 - Table 7 – Coding example for challenges ..........................................................................- 36 - Table 8 – Challenges for ED ................................................................................................- 43 - Table 9 – Enablers for ED ..................................................................................................- 49 - Table 10 – Integration of ED ..............................................................................................- 54 -

List of Abbreviations

DT Design Thinking

ED Emotional Durability

EDD Emotionally Durable Design

KPI Key Performance Indicator

PD Physical Durability

T&C Textile and Clothing

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1 Introduction

In this chapter the background of the thesis will be introduced, and thus give an overview of

the context and its essential attributes, to create clarity and place the reader in the right context.

The chapter will describe the identified problem, as well as the research gap, followed by the

purpose and finally the research questions will be presented, and delimitations will be set for

the study.

1.1 Background

Clothing has provided humans with various functions over time, the primary function includes

shelter, protection and modesty, but secondly aesthetic and social function (Barnard 2002). In

today’s society some these functions have been set aside, to benefit market growth. Thus,

clothing and fashion can be seen as a business leverage, rather than the original functions

discussed by Barnard. In the 19th century there was a substantial change in the history of

production, as industrialisation made mass-production possible and created better availability

for fashion commodities (Chapman 2014; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). This steers away from the

traditional production of garments, which was a highly participatory process for the wearer,

through tailormade and bespoke clothing, whereas the introduction of mass-manufactured

clothing has disengaged the wearer from the creation, and limited the experience to whether to

buy or not to buy the garment (Cramer 2011). Mass production has led to fast fashion becoming

a successful business model from an economic standpoint, which has created significant growth

for companies (Cotton et al. 2020). However, this has led to constant changes and turbulent

environments, where speed to market is driven by fast fashion logistics and increased trend-

variation. This has caused expanding and rapidly changing wardrobes within consumers, who

are constantly presented with newness (Cooper et al. 2013a; Remy et al. 2016). Thereby

resulting in consequences for fashion companies, who are trying to keep up with continuous

growth. It has been found that it’s essential for garments to become obsolete as the current

success factor is based on volumes of sales (Fletcher 2017). Thereby, causing rapid loss in value

of the clothing, which ultimately puts clothing into the category of disposables, which is causing

rapid resource depletion (Fletcher 2015b). The 3.8 billion years old reserve of natural capital,

that the human race was lucky to inherit, has been put under extensive pressure, due to the

extortionate consumption patterns. One third of the planet’s resources have been consumed in

the last four decades and the earth is struggling to regenerate the resources to keep up with

current consumption levels (Chapman 2009).

The textile and clothing (T&C) industry currently functions on a linear model, where take-

make-consume-dispose is the norm (McDonough & Braungart 2002). This translates into

accelerating exhaustion of resources, which is said to no longer be fit for the contemporary

world (Popescu 2018). The prices that the fast fashion system works on, doesn’t reflect the

environmental and social costs. Where fossil fuels are burned to run production plants,

chemicals are flushed into waterways, garment workers getting underpaid, and enormous

amounts of energy is used to produce and process fibres for garments (Allwood et al. 2015). As

the active lifetime of garments is decreasing (Cooper et al. 2013a), 1.6 billion SEK worth of

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garments go to landfill every year. Which is equivalent to a truck full of textiles and clothing

reaching landfill or incineration plants every second (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017).

According to Global Fashion Agenda (2020) an estimate of 92 millions tons of textile waste is

created each year, which is expected increase to 134 million tons of textile waste by the year

2030. These figures reveal that there has been a profound change in the way people relate to

what they wear; clothes that was once valued and kept in pristine condition to last a lifetime,

has now become objects of low value (Neto & Ferreira 2020). Consumers can fall in love with

a garment, but just rapidly fall out of love with another one, causing a fleeting relationship

between consumer and garment to end. Several scholars point out that the large amounts of

textiles and clothing that end up in landfill, are hardly used or new when discarded (Allwood et

al. 2015; Chapman 2014; Fletcher 2017; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013; Palm et al. 2015). There

is a urgent need for a radical and systemic change in all the stages related to garment lifetime,

from design to production, to use and disposal (Ravnløkke & Bang 2016). Fashion companies

are struggling to create a lasting change towards sustainability, which demonstrates a need for

innovative approaches and collaboration, as well as strategies, theories and frameworks which

can create a better understanding of the challenges companies face (Earley & Andersen 2014).

Reducing the environmental impact of products overall is vital, however focusing on reducing

impact simply won’t suffice to alleviate the increasing levels of consumption and disposal

(Cooper et al. 2013a; Fletcher & Grose 2012; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). Longer-lasting

materials can be used to promote a strategy to increase resourcefulness and sustainability

(Fletcher 2015a). Longer-lasting materials can be defined as materials which have a certain

resistance to surface abrasion, odour and staining, and further has passed tests for colour

fastness, to ensure the use of appropriate colouration techniques, these tests can help ensure the

durability of materials (Designforlongevity.com 2021). However increased product durability

isn’t the only factor when it comes to longevity of garments, overall durability gains also depend

on changed user behaviour and consumption patterns which currently are influenced by social

and experimental dimensions (Ibid.). As products often are replaced way prior to the stage

where the physical function is compromised. Emotional durability (ED) has become

increasingly important, and has received elevated attention in literature as a way to combat

consumption (Chapman 2015; Cramer 2011; Fletcher 2015a; Haug 2017; van Nes & Cramer

2006)

1.2 Problem Discussion

The disposability that we are seeing with T&C, where immense amounts of clothing end up in

landfills long before they are worn out, can be closely linked to the linear business model

(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017; Popescu 2018). Circular economy has been introduced as a

means to keep materials in use through regenerative cycles of reuse and recycling

(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). Design for longevity has been highlighted as an area of

importance when it comes to creating sustainable solutions within the T&C industry (Connor-

Crabb et al. 2016; Cooper et al. 2013a; Cotton et al. 2020; Cramer 2011; Earley 2017). In a

study done by WRAP (2012) extending garments lifetime has been found to offer the greatest

savings overall in carbon, water and waste footprints when compared with the current best

practices in production and fibre choice, laundry and recycling. Further research by WRAP

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(2015) shows that extending life of garments by an extra nine months of active use, would

reduce footprints by around 20-30% each. However, overconsumption and premature

replacement of durable and functioning products is still happening and has been addressed by

a number of scholars (Chapman 2015; Cooper 1994; van Nes & Cramer 2006). Previous studies

provide a range of complex reasons for premature product replacement in the current

throwaway culture, including planned obsolescence, material degradation, product defects,

problems with size and fit & altering needs and desires (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2009;

Neto & Ferreira 2020; van den Berge et al. 2020; van Nes & Cramer 2005) . There has

previously been an emphasis on the role of product quality and material durability relating to

physical durability (PD), to increase product life (Casais et al. 2015; Mugge 2018; van den

Berge et al. 2020). However, it’s not the only factor impacting when products are replaced

(Chapman 2009; Haug 2017). Many products, especially garments are replaced by their owners

because they fail to keep a sustaining psychological and emotional bond with their users

(Chapman 2014). Optimising the product retention period through strengthening the emotional

bond has been studied in depth by Jonathan Chapman (2015) through emotionally durable

design (EDD) and by Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2006) through product attachment.

Designing for longevity bridges both PD and ED, where strategies for PD have been preferred

by companies. The ED aspect entails a more complex and not as straightforward approach and

thus a relatively unexplored research area. Promoting product innovation and efficiency is a

strategy to address environmental problems (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). This needs to be

pushed further to facilitate better product attachment, which requires collaborative and multi-

disciplinary efforts across stakeholders, where ideas are iterated, tested and implemented

(Baldassarre et al. 2020). Collaborative thinking can be realised through design theory, where

several theories have the potential to advance understanding on how a transition in the T&C

industry may be realised (Baldassarre et al. 2020; Brown 2008). Transforming products,

systems and behaviours is necessary to ensure that longevity can challenge the current system

that is characterised by constant change and newness to provide economic gains (Cooper et al.

2016; Watson et al. 2017). Designing with longevity in mind requires a human-centred

approach to unlock new knowledge and ideas (Designforlongevity.com 2021). Understanding

needs of consumers that will establish connections is necessary for ED. Creative problem

solving which is also referred to as design thinking (DT) has potential to become the new

frontier for designing for a more sustainable T&C industry, through collaboration and iterative

processes challenges can be overcome (Bjögvinsson et al. 2012).

1.3 Research Gap

Several studies have been conducted in the field of longevity with emphasis on ED, to

understand how circularity can be adopted within the T&C Industry (Casais et al. 2015; Haines-

Gadd et al. 2018; Karell & Niinimäki 2020; Mugge et al. 2006; Niinimäki 2011; Niinimäki &

Koskinen 2015). Many of these studies have examined which factors positively affect the

emotional connection between users and durable products using a consumer-centric approach

(Fletcher 2015b; Mugge et al. 2009; Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008). These studies

have highlighted knowledge on why some products are cherished for years, while other’s end

up in landfill after one or two wears. This gives detailed information about product attachment,

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emotional behaviour and reasoning for consumption. Some of these aspects have been

embraced by the T&C industry, where there’s been adaptions in practices. However a lot of

these adaptions has focused on the use of sustainable materials and creating physically durable

garments rather than looking into practices that facilitate ED (Nerurkar 2016). Similarly Cooper

et al. (2016) states that there is too much emphasis on environmental and financial benefits,

while little is connected to ED and attachment. Previous academic research into extending

product lifetimes is still sparse, and although government funded reports have addressed the

topic (WRAP 2015), there is a need for more in-depth research into the emotional aspect of

longevity and how this can be influenced by brands, designers and marketers. It’s been

established to be an important research field as it has potential in reducing the environmental

impact that is associated with the T&C industry (Goworek et al. 2018; WRAP 2012). Niinimäki

(2011) has contributed several studies that investigate the reasons for continuation of use. In

one study it’s argued that satisfying user experience can be achieved, once it meets the user’s

expectation for quality and functionality, as well as aesthetical dimensions to create emotional

attachment by focusing on value creation (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Van Nes & Cramer

(2003; 2006) argue that the needs of the consumer include a well-functioning and up-to-date

product that continuously fulfil changing needs. The challenge is thus ensuring that product

lifetime can be achieved through continued satisfaction which enables for deep attachment

(ibid.). This requires that products are designed in a way which facilitates this, therefore

opening up for research on ED from a brand perspective.

Most approach to longevity have had a focus on the material characteristics and the assumptions

regarding these design theories have been critiqued to fall short (Fletcher & Grose 2012). These

limitations have also been highlighted by other researchers (Chapman 2015; Connor-Crabb

2017; Cooper 2010)

Studying ED for longevity from a brand perspective is a narrowly explored field of research,

but it’s an essential aspect to understand the potential within ED. It can enable companies to

gain understanding in tools, frameworks and strategies that can foster emotional bonds between

product and user, and thereby prolong life and creating a needed change in the industry. Haines-

Gadd et al. (2018) argue that organisations should consider alternative perspectives, that can

help uncover new value propositions, including slowing down the inner loops of use to produce

longer lasting relationships, that increase product longevity through integration of ED using

design processes and communication.

1.4 Research Purpose & Questions

The purpose of this thesis is to narrow the research gap and expand on the current literature

in relation to the topic of ED, and thereby bring a broader perspective on ED, by exploring the

enablers and challenges from a brand perspective, and further understand the potential of

integration through the use of strategies and creative problem solving.

ED is a relatively new field within longevity, however a crucial aspect when it comes to

enabling product retention. It can foster change in consumption behaviour and stimulate

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circularity. Prolonging the active life of garments can decrease climate impact which shows

that a lot of potential lies within ED (Chapman 2015).

The research questions for this master’s thesis, where developed in response to gaps which were

identified in the literature review. The motive for this research is to broaden the perspective of

ED for longevity, thus looking further than previous research. By looking at design theory,

using diverse teams and reframing problems through experimentation and collaboration,

creative potential can be unleashed (Liedtka 2018). Previous research indicate the brands have

potential to influence emotional attachment (Chapman 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a). However,

there are both challenges and enablers that needs to be considered. Following this statement,

the first research question has been developed for this thesis:

RQ1: What are the challenges and enablers for implementing ED within the T&C industry from

a brand perspective?

ED challenges the throwaway society, by progressing around a broad outlook of design tools,

methods and frameworks, that aims to build resilience into the relationship between users and

products (Chapman 2015). However, as the concept of ED is still relatively unknown in relation

to integration within organisations. It would be of interest to gain a broader perspective in

integration of ED. Therefore, the second question developed for this thesis is as follows:

RQ2: How can companies within the T&C industry integrate ED to facilitate longevity within

circular product design and development?

Aligned with the aforementioned discussion, this study aims at exploring the challenges and

enablers for ED from a brand perspective, as well as how it can be integrated at product level

through the use of collaborative efforts with DT processes. The previous studies highlight that

emotional durability is a narrowly explored area from a brand perspective and there is a need

to contribute to existing research in relation to gaining a broader knowledge of the phenomenon

and its potential for integration within fashion brands, to secure better product retention. The

limited amount of research is hindered by the lack of developed design strategies which can

facilitate the integration of a viable change through ED. Therefore, this this thesis aims at

exploring the challenges and enablers of ED to highlight integration potential and elaborate on

current literature within the field. To enable for strategy development which can help tackle the

systemic problems within the industry and make challenges tangible and create actionable

solutions (Earley & Andersen 2014).

1.5 Delimitations

To ensure the quality and credibility of this research it has been important to make some

delimitation. The research seeks to identify the opportunities within ED from a brand

perspective, which will be compared and analysed using existing literature to establish an

understanding of the challenges. As well as the enabling conditions to integrate ED within

design and marketing to stimulate a more circular industry.

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Firstly, the research will be limited to companies who are situated in the western European

countries, as most of the prominent research within the field stems from these countries, further

narrowing the scope of collecting empirical data to a Swedish company, due to many companies

adopting strategies of ED to facilitate longevity are situated in the Nordics (Palm et al. 2015;

Watson et al. 2017), and thereby ensuring valuable data from the respondents in question.

Secondly, the research aims at focusing on textiles and clothing, more specifically the fashion

industry, as this relates to the aim of the research, where the focus is on ED to help facilitate

circular economy within the T&C industry. To maximise the impact within ED, the choice to

focus on fashion companies was made, as its stated that ED may not have much impact on

textile products in the home category such as towels, curtains, bedsheets etc.(Chapman 2015)

Thirdly, the study is delimited to looking at longevity from the standpoint of ED, PD stands as

a building block for ED, but as Cramer (2011) states what sense does it make to design a

garment of superior quality, which has an extended life from the PD standpoint, if the garment

is discarded of after few usages, due to a lack of attachment.

Lastly, the research will have a focused approach on brand perspective, as previous studies have

been taking a consumer-centric approach (Connor-Crabb et al. 2016; Fletcher 2017; Karell &

Niinimäki 2020; Mugge 2018; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; Niinimäki &

Koskinen 2015; Ravnløkke & Bang 2016; Vincent 2013), this research will look at ED from a

brand perspective to gain understanding in how the phenomenon can be facilitated at brand

level.

1.6 Thesis Structure

This master’s thesis is divided into seven chapters. For an easier navigation the structure is

presented in Table 1 on the next page. It clarifies how each chapter contributes to the research

aim through three research objectives.

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Table 1 – Overview of the structure of the thesis

43

4

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2 Literature Review

This chapter provides a narrative state-of-the-art within the field of longevity. Longevity is

defined as a perspective, which enhances sustainable practices to encourage circular economy.

Further the field of ED is explained where product-person attachment is explored. Frameworks

from influential scholars will be explained to create a preliminary understanding of the topic.

Further identified strategies will be delved into, to bring a broader perspective on integration

aspects.

2.1 Design for Longevity

Scholars have indicated that there’s an urgent need to change the way in which things are made

and consumed to create a desire for durable products (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; McNeill

et al. 2020; Mugge 2018; Norman 2004). However, product obsolescence stand in the way of

product longevity. In 1932 the term planned obsolescence was introduced by economist

Bernard London (1932). The term was made popular by Vance Packard (1964) in the book The

Waste Makers, it’s defined as a business strategy which deliberately shortens the usable life of

a product with built-in timed failures (Chapman 2015; Neto & Ferreira 2020). It was introduced

to ensure economic growth and prevent stagnation of demand. This meant that the economy

relied on three strategies of obsolescence: obsolescence of function, obsolescence of quality

and obsolescence of desirability (ibid.). These terms have been discussed continuously by

scholars, and the discarding of functional commodities has become a feature of the current

consumer zeitgeist. Where the practice of cherishing and preserving has been in decline, due to

the fast paced systems and constant urge for new (Hellmann & Luedicke 2018). The throwaway

society is having societal consequences, as manufactured obsolescence has significantly

accelerated the depletion of resources, which as a consequence has aggravated environmental

pollution (Packard 1964).

Designing for longevity aims at overcoming some of the obstacles within obsolescence, such

as the changing trends, that can dictate and influence life span of products leading to premature

disposal (Chapman 2016). Designing with longevity in mind, has been identified as the single

largest opportunity to reduce the carbon, water and waste footprint in the T&C s industry

(Cooper et al. 2013a). Which means that if clothes have a longer useable life, and being replaced

less frequently, the result can be a reduction in volumes of discarded clothing, meaning that

fewer resources will be needed in the manufacturing stages, as shown in a report by WRAP

(2013a). Further research that was commissioned by the Nordic Council of ministers in (2016)

shows that extension of garment lifetime and reuse, gives the greatest environmental benefits,

compared to current available technology of incineration or recycling (Schmidt et al. 2016).

Longevity is a term which has been getting increased attention within the field of fashion,

however finding a specific definition for the term has proven to be sparse. Longevity and

durability are often used interchangeably or in connection to one another. In the report

Strategies to improve design and testing for clothing longevity (Cooper et al. 2016), longevity

is defined as:

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“…Longevity describes a products lifespan, which may be determined by factors other

than design and manufacture, such as behaviour and socio-cultural influences” (Cooper

et al. 2016, p. 7)

Longevity and life-span are terms that go beyond design, specification of material as well as

manufacturing quality (Chapman 2009; Cooper et al. 2013a; Earley 2017), where the product

use phase is influenced by users and social-cultural expectations, thus extending beyond

physicality of products (Goworek et al. 2020). Durability is similarly defined as an expression

of product lifetime, in the book Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society

(Cooper 2010) durability was defined as:

“… A measure of how long a product will continue functioning and withstand “wear and

tear” before it develops a defect that is deemed irreparable.” (Cooper 2010, p. 10)

This definition is corroborated by Belinda Carp (2020), where the ability of a product to remain

functional without the need for excessive maintenance or repair. However, other scholars define

durability as design solutions where updates and continuous maintenance can safeguard against

obsolescence (Harper 2017). This shows that a distinction between durability and longevity can

be identified, even though they are used interchangeable in the reviewed literature. Longevity,

thus represents a product’s lifespan, which is the entire period from initial acquisition of the

product to disposal as waste (Cooper 2010). A product’s longevity can therefore be determined

by several factors including consumption behaviour, cultural influences as well as design

attributes created during production (Cooper et al. 2016). Whereas, durability is more focused

on quality characteristics of the products, and the possibility of the materials used to withstand

the wearer (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). Chapman focuses his research on ED and states that

objects which through their choices of materials grow old gracefully, while accumulating

character and value through time, demonstrates that durability is as much about emotion, value

and attachment, as it is about the strength and physical robustness of the materials used for the

products (Chapman 2014). Harper (2017) support this as she states that durability is associated

with the use of sustainable, enduring materials that age gracefully. There is a clear link between

longevity and durability, where the distinction lies between physicality and emotionality which

are aspect which require careful consideration. As:

“…there is little point in designing PD into consumer goods if consumers lack the desire

to keep them” (Chapman 2015, p. 13)

This shows that there is evidence that both PD as well as ED needs to be considered when

designing for longevity. Fletcher (2017) emphasizes that strategies for longevity are limited by

practices of use, which is why it can be difficult to influence in traditional design processes.

However, garments that have a long life have the lowest impact, thus making it a prerequisite

to find design strategies to ensure extended product lifetime (Fletcher & Grose 2012; Fletcher

& Tham 2014; Laitala & Boks 2012). Longevity is a complex phenomenon which encompasses

both technical, social and aesthetic aspects that are intertwined (Klepp et al. 2016)

2.2 Emotional durability

When discussing longevity, the ED of a product is arguably as important as it’s PD. According

to Cramer (2011) the ED is of great importance, as unwanted yet functioning and serviceable

- 11 -

products can be discarded if an emotional connection isn’t established. All products have a

lifecycle where both the physical aspect and the user plays a critical role in determining its

longevity, thus impacting the timespan the product remains relevant. There has been an

increased focus on physical quality to counteract the fast-fashion system, where poor quality

and shortened lifetimes have compromised PD (Fletcher 2015a; Gwilt & Pal 2017). PD can be

seen as a cornerstone for longevity. The PD depends on a range of factors, including

construction methods, seam strength, quality of materials and trims (Cooper et al. 2013a).

However, scholars have discussed that, products often get replaced long before their physical

function is compromised, which shows that there is need for more attention to psychological

aspects including ED (Carp 2020; Chapman 2009; Cooper et al. 2016; Haug 2017; Laitala &

Boks 2012; van Nes & Cramer 2005).

ED is a relatively new branch in relation to design research, that has evolved in the last couple

of decades, where the aim is to explore the role of emotions in the process of perception and

interaction with products (Carp 2020; Cooper et al. 2016). ED explores the idea of creating a

deeper more sustainable bond between people and product. The ultimate aim for emotionally

durable design (EDD) is thus to reduce the consumption and waste of resources through

increasing the durability of relationship between products and consumers (Fletcher & Tham

2014). Jonathan Chapman introduced the term EDD in his book Emotional Durable Design:

Objects, Experiences and Empathy (Chapman 2015), which emphasises on ways to combat the

culture of excess and disposability, which can act as a counterpoint to throwaway society.

Through the development of design tools that build resilience into product-user relationships to

ensure that new products are designed to be loved (Ibid.).

EDD thus introduces a radically new approach to sustainable design, where the focus lie in

encouraging responsible consumption, through a more conscious effort in designing products

that should be kept (Fletcher 2017). Thereby moving away from waste accumulation that the

throwaway society is facilitating, where according to Chapman(2015), waste “is a symptom of

expired empathy, a kind of failed relationship that leads to the dumping of one by the other” (p.

61). Chapman (2014) argues that current sustainable design is focused on symptoms or the

damaging after-effects of wasteful consumption, rather than looking into the challenges of the

core issues of the crisis facing the environment. Therefore, EDD seeks to gain an understanding

into the reason for disposal of the vast amounts of objects with fast turnaround. By looking at

emotional factors in various stages of the products life from purchasing decision, to use to

disposal. Emotional durable products are products that are designed to evolve and transform in

an extended lifecycle philosophy, thus being able to evolve with the consumer, unfolding

narratives as they develop (Earley 2017; McNeill et al. 2020). Several empirical studies have

provided clear evidence that people form deep and complex relationships with material

products, which can ensure longevity within the garments (Casais et al. 2015; Mugge et al.

2009; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013; Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008; van Nes &

Cramer 2006).

One of the challenges within product lifetime extensions is ensuring continuous satisfaction

with the product to form a deep attachment over time (Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013). It has

- 12 -

been found that once a product attachment is formed, consumers have a greater tendency to

care for the product and repair it. Thereby enabling a long and meaningful life through

continuous repair and care (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). However, some scholars are critical

in this regard as they argue that strong bonds with certain product does not necessarily lead to

a reduction in further consumption (Cooper 2010; Fletcher 2015a). Mugge, Schoorman &

Schifferstein (2009) further elaborate on this, where they recognise that consumers may keep

their valued possessions, but still buy replacements once their cherished product no longer

perform the original function. This shows that objects can have a significant role that extends

beyond their material value (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; Norman 2004). Harper (2017)

argues that the potential that lies within an items such as piece of clothing, where a strong

emotional bond is established, to reduce consumption is conditional on their perceived aesthetic

value. Harper refers to this as aesthetic sustainability, where frequent use and continuous

satisfaction is linked with items, where the emotional value is matched with a strong aesthetic

appeal (ibid).

2.3 Person-Product Relationship

To understand ED, it’s essential to gain insight in person-product relationship, a lot of previous

research have investigated this topic, and establishing an emotional bond between product and

person requires that you reach different levels of processing in the brain, to ensure a sustained

relationship, this section will provide a detailed insight in person-product relationship. In the

contemporary society product-attachment is complex, consumers form attachments to some

object, while others are easily disposed of. This links to the thoughts of Harper (2017), who

believes that aesthetic value is necessary to establish a user-product connection, where focus

lies within both psychological, sensuous and physical bonds. The attachment process can be

difficult to study and consist of subjective factors. Chapman (2009) explains that the discursive

engagement between the consumer and the product develops through time and stimulation,

which often isn’t consciously realised. Further experiences with products result in shared

narratives, which enables the product to become a reminder to the consumer of a certain

memory (Mugge et al. 2006). This enables favourite possessions to be charged with memories

(Mugge 2018). In previous research, Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005) has

considered two levels of product attachment. The first level encompasses the physical form or

function of the product, which can be integrated through product design. The second level is

linked to the attachment to memories and shared experiences with the product, which has longer

lasting potential, but is more difficult to create. Don Norman (2004) examined the physical and

emotional aspects of products in his concept of the three-level design (Figure 1), which

correlates with different levels of processing in the human brain.

- 13 -

Figure 1 – The Three Levels of Design – Adapted from Norman (2004)

The proposed levels are different, yet interconnected, each of which influences the experience

of the world and the products within. The three levels are visceral, behavioural and reflective.

o The visceral level – is responsible for the ingrained, automatic and somewhat animalistic

qualities in human emotion. It requires a focus on appearance and instant appeal through

tactile qualities of how things look and feel.

o The behavioural level – refers to the controlled factor of human action, where human

unconsciously analyse a situation to develop effective strategies. Thereby, the

behavioural level of design needs to consider the pleasure and effectiveness of use

o The reflective level – is the home of reflection and conscious thought. Which is directed

towards self-image as well as the memories associated with the product.

The three levels of design all combine to form the entire product experience, which can help

lead to product-person relationship. This requires focus on cognition, meaning and pleasure,

where there’s a complex interconnection between both physical properties, symbolic meaning

and the potential emotional value. These three levels of design can be utilised to gain

understanding in how products can be designed and altered to evoke emotion with consumers.

Norman argues that to form an emotional bond with a product a sustained interaction is required

(Norman 2004, p. 46). This is corroborated by Chapman (2015) who states that waste is failed

relationship between consumer and product, thus needing a sustained interaction. However, ED

requires sustained physical properties which enables an emotional bond to be developed.

Products are required to have a material ability as well as immaterial opportunity to age together

with the consumer in a dignified way (Norman 2004). Harper (2017) similarly express that there

- 14 -

are several levels to a products design that facilitate a deeper connection and thereby enables

longevity. Her study on aesthetic sustainability consists of emotional value. However as

described previously emotional attachment can be very subjective, whereas aesthetic

sustainability is more universal as it consists of designs that are broadly satisfying, that can

maintain satisfaction through sensory experience. This relates to the visceral level and develops

into the behavioural level. Symbolic value and meaning, relates to a product deemed

irreplaceable by the user, thus consumer-product attachment implies that an emotional bond

between user and object exist (Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008).

It is clear that the paradigm of designing for longevity, needs to be considers when developing

new strategies (Chapman 2009). Strategies for longevity to increase product lifetimes, have

been proposed by researchers as a way to tackle the consumption issues in the T&C industry.

The next section will provide an overview of some of the most prominent frameworks that have

been developed for ED followed by strategies stemming from the frameworks and previous

scholars. These frameworks provide the first conceptual frameworks on ED and allows for an

extensive understanding in the phenomenon and how strategies can provide tools to integrate

certain aspects of emotional durability.

2.4 Frameworks for emotional durability

Human emotions are by nature intangible, while the character of design consists of many

different aspects. Constructing guidelines for designers, marketers and actors involved in the

product development stages can therefore be challenging. It’s essential to invest efforts into

prolonging lifetimes and the need has been recognised by scholars, where EDD has provided

potential to establish strategies which can foster emotional attachment between user and product

(Chapman 2014). In the book Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences & Empathy

(2015) Chapman tries to partner theory with application advice for designers. Fletcher & Grose

(2012) explains that designers are not merely creators of object, but need to consider the use

phase and create systems which promote and support life-extending actions, which can involve

activities of communicator-educator, facilitator or entrepreneur.

2.4.1 Six-point framework

Frameworks and tools that can enable for the development and integration of ED within

products are still scarce. It has become known that emotion and design have a connection but

establishing tools and guides has shown to be challenging. In regard to ED, Jonathan Chapman

provided one of the first efforts. Drawing up guidelines to be used by designers, in his PhD

thesis. An empirical study was conducted, where more than 2.000 respondents were surveyed

on domestic electronics. Six themes were identified in a six-point framework (Chapman 2015,

p. 175) The framework was chosen, as it’s one of the first tools that can help integrate ED from

a company’s perspective. The framework has been used as inspiration for scholars after and

therefore seen as a prominent and valuable framework and include six themes:

o Narrative o Fiction/Enchantment o Detachment

o Consciousness o Attachment o Surface

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Chapman’s framework was refined to supply designers and product developers with a

conceptual pathway to launch engagement with aspects surrounding ED. The framework has

similarities with work by other scholars. Design strategies that were mentioned in a study by

Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005), where it’s stated that a strong person-product

relationship can be useful in regard to postponing product replacements, as well as extending

psychological lifetime of durables (p. 41). Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein provide ideas

and strategies that reflect on memories as well as products that are personalised, where the focus

lies within creating products which facilitate memories, which thereby make products

irreplaceable thus postponing replacement. This resonate with Chapman’s Narrative, which

suggests that users share a unique personal history with a product (Chapman 2015, p. 175).

Further, Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005) propose a strategy which focuses on

shared history through aging with dignity which has similar points to Chapman’s surface theme,

which focuses on products that can age well physically while developing character (Chapman

2015, p. 175). Superior utility, superior appearance and long life guarantees are also discussed,

which indicates a need for PD as well as strategies for ED (Mugge et al. 2005).

2.4.2 Emotional durability Design Nine

The six-point framework has acted as a catalyst for more development in the field. One of the

more recent attempt in relation to formulating a set of guidelines for integrating emotionally

durable design within design practices is the Emotional durability design nine established by

Haines-Gadd, Chapman, Lloyd, Mason & Aliakseyeu (2018). It’s a framework as well as a tool

kit for designers. The Emotional Durability Design Nine presented thirty-eight strategies to help

with development of more emotionally engaging product experiences, together with nine

overarching themes that include:

o Relationship o Narratives o Identity

o Imagination o Conversations o Consciousness

o Integrity o Materiality o Evolvability

The benefits discussed within the Emotional Durability Design Nine includes the ability to

develop a prosperous emotional engagement that facilitate the extension of emotional– and

physical lifetime. As well as encouraging a more exciting and emotionally engaging user

experience (ibid.). Thus, aiming for designing products with extended lifetimes, where product

replacement is postponed. An interesting aspect in this framework is delving into the different

strategies within the overarching themes. Within integrity; ensuring quality, durability and

reliability is discussed, which resonates with Mugge, Schoormans and Schifferstein’s strategy

(2005) of long life guarantees and thus the PD needs to be a foundational level. Customisation

and personalisation are mentioned in the theme of identity, which has been mentioned by

several scholars as a way to promote a connection between user and product (Cooper et al.

2016; Laitala & Boks 2012; Mugge et al. 2005; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013). Further,

relationship delves into the field of participation with the product, which includes educating

users in repairing and maintaining their products (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Repair, mending

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and maintaining has been a craft which was prominent prior to the introduction of fast fashion.

However, repairing products is no longer deemed worthwhile as the current system is based on

fast replacement of products and planned obsolescence (Fletcher 2015a; Niinimäki & Koskinen

2015). However, there is evidence that behaviour connected to maintenance and repair can

contribute to well-being and thereby offer a double dividend of both environmental and

personal benefits (Connor-Crabb et al. 2016). Imagination, delves into delight, intriguing the

user and this creating engagement, this can be done through the creation of surprise, which can

include unexpected functional interactions, thereby creating a moment of surprise to increase

interaction and engagement (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). This aspect is also discussed in detail

by Harper (2017), where an objects need to nourish senses through surprises, while the object

should get more attractive when worn and used, leading the user to discover and grow with the

product through building relationships. The ED design nine offers a toolkit for designers to

immerse themselves in, to gain insight and knowledge in how to design for ED, the tool kit

offers different strategies according to product types.

2.5 Strategies for Emotional Durability

The previous discussed frameworks have a more holistic approach to ED; however they have

acted as the foundation for building a range of strategies that can be used to facilitate ED. These

are shown in Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED. The strategies have been discussed by previous

researchers in connection to establishing ED. The six most highlighted strategies will be

explained in the section 2.5.1-2.5.6.

2.5.1 Dependability & Physical durability

Dependability is an essential aspect when developing attachment, dissatisfaction due to poor

PD can enable a fate in landfill rather than in the consumer’s wardrobe. PD links to integrity in

the Emotional durability Design Nine Framework where the emphasis of integrity lies within

quality and transparency (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Research shows that premature garment

failure, such as seam slippage or pilling can cause consumer frustration, where low quality is a

key reason for dissatisfaction within T&C (Niinimäki 2011). Furthermore, physical durable

clothing has better chances of being repaired according to a report by WRAP (2013a). However,

some researchers have shown scepticism towards the benefits of extending PD of garments

(Fletcher 2015a). Fletcher (2015a) argues that a lot of fashion products already have the

characteristics to last well beyond the useful lifetime, in the eyes of their owners. PD ensures

that the consumer can rely on the garment to stay functioning and be resistant to wear and tear

(Cooper et al. 2013a). Improving PD from a material quality standpoint has been identified as

one of the main design intervention, which can have a huge effect on longevity of clothing

(Cooper 2010).

2.5.2 Customisation & Personalisation & Co-Creation

Product attachment can be seen as a unique consumer experience, which involve memories

between the user and the product, which can be deemed a challenge due to subjectivity (Mugge

- 17 -

2018). As claimed by Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) persistent product-user relationships can be

created through personalised and unique design or co-creation processes, which requires a shift

in mindset, in addition to new business models with supporting manufacturing systems. In

Chapmans (2015) six-point framework this is highlighted in the theme narrative, where he

explains that EDD requires unique personal history with products, which can be created through

personalisation. This is corroborated by Haines-Gadd et al. (2018), who explains customisation

and personalisation through the themes of identity and narrative can promote a connection

between user and product. Personalisation can often be created through collaborative efforts

and co-creation between user and brand (Haug 2019). Co-creation can foster personal meaning

and attachment, which can be done through mass customisation (Haeggblom & Budde 2021).

Prior to the introduction of fast fashion, it was normal to utilise tailors and have custom

garments made to fit and altered as the user changed (Neto & Ferreira 2020). This ensured

inclusion in the design process, by selecting materials and involvement in fit, thus naturally

building a relation. The personal narrative thus initiates at the drawing board and will unfold

through use and time (Cramer 2011; Laitala & Klepp 2011). Participation and customisation in

the design stage, can thus be seen as a first step to re-engage the consumer, and thereby establish

a more in-depth relationship between consumer and garment. Establishing a stronger emotional

connection has shown to engage with a trickle-down effect as it helps promote a stronger

interest in maintenance of garments (Haeggblom & Budde 2021).

Customisation and personalisation of products provide a more flexible product that can help

provide meaning to the consumer, this can be facilitated through open source design, co-

creation, mass customisation and diy-activities, which enables consumers to attach self-

expressive value to the product (Nerurkar 2016; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; van den Berge et al.

2020). Further, ensuring product uniqueness that can help facilitate self-expression, which has

the ability to extend the emotional bond between product and user (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy

2016). In the process of personalising a product, a consumer directs attention, care, time and

energy in the product, thereby investing efforts in the product, thus stimulating the emotional

bond between the user and product (Mugge et al. 2009). Enabling the consumer to interact and

make small alterations, can enhance and emotional durable relationship, through experience

and create value through active participation (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017).

2.5.3 Flexible & Modular Design

Flexible & Modular design draws parallels on the themes of evolvability and imagination,

described in the Emotional durability Design Nine Framework by Haines-Gadd et al. (2018),

where evolvability focuses on how a product can transform according to users’ needs. Further,

modular components can allow for the user to involve imagination to create surprising effects,

which allows for continuous engagement which can allow for attachment and relationship

building. The concept of flexible design as a strategy in product design has been suggested by

scholars (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2005; van Nes & Cramer 2005). Functional design

encompasses aspects of modularity, which enables for garments to be adjusted, disassembled,

easier to care for (Cooper et al. 2016). This is corroborated by Van Nes and Cramer (2005),

who states that flexible products ensure that products are designed for variability, product

- 18 -

attachment and preparing for potential future repairs or upgrades. In relation Chapman (2009)

has explained that one of the reasons for failed relationships between user and product, is linked

to users evolving, while products stay stagnant. Thus, having products that can be updateable

through modular elements can address this need for change as users evolve (Connor-Crabb et

al. 2016). Within flexibility and modular design lies the field of adaptability. A crucial aspect

when it comes to clothing lifetimes includes size and fit, as they have been discussed as a

common reason why functional garments end up in landfills (Earley 2017; Laitala & Klepp

2011; WRAP 2015). In the UK 56% of consumers own pieces of clothing that no longer fit,

where one quarter states that they would wear items longer if they could be altered for a better

fit. (Cooper et al. 2016). Womenswear and menswear could benefit from designs that have

adjustable features that acknowledge potential fluctuations in weight and body shape, whereas

childrenswear fluctuations can often be linked to growth (Cooper et al. 2013a; Laitala & Boks

2012).

Providing garments with removable parts can allow for both aesthetic updates, as well as enable

easy repair and replacement, when a part of the garment is damaged, worn out or requires

alteration in size (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Modular design can enable consumers to alter

their garments, when desires change, this enables for flexibility and evolvability for the user,

and thereby strengthen the bond between user and garment (van Nes & Cramer 2003). However

modularity and adaptability needs to be carefully considered as it can contribute to increased

consumption, when these additional features can lure to user to purchase more, it’s therefore

essential to consider how to design for modularity without increasing consumption (Fletcher &

Grose 2012). Garments that have detachable parts have existed for a long time. Today it’s

common to find detachable hoods, jacket linings and trouser legs, especially in functional

outwear to create more wear options (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Further it allows to build

anticipation from knowing that there are elements than can be upgraded, modular product have

the possibility to collect memories and stories to show the progression of the user’s journey,

which builds up a multi-layered narrative (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018).

2.5.4 Gracefully ageing

Experiences between the user and the garment influences emotional attachment and motivates

the user to wear the garments more. Thereby providing a satisfying experience for the user,

which can be seen as a strategy to facilitate ED. Scholars have discussed these experiences to

include products which age well (Chapman 2014; Cooper et al. 2016; Fletcher 2015a;

Haeggblom & Budde 2021; van den Berge et al. 2020). In the six-point framework, Chapman

(2015) describes the theme surface, which includes designing products which age well and

therefore create a tangible character, that evolves with the user. Further, explained through

materiality where things that age gracefully has the potential to become unique and show signs

of wear, which tells the story of the user, thus fostering an emotional attachment (Haeggblom

& Budde 2021; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Product that age with dignity and grace, can enable

for a personalised product that encompass self-expression, which is of high importance in ED

(Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). Further objects which accumulate character and value through

time has greater potential to encourage ED by embodying the signs of life through patina, which

- 19 -

helps sustain a narrative (Chapman 2014). An example of this is denim, which has a rich

history. Denim carries the impression of the wearer as well as show evidence of their

personality. Denim is often defined as a second skin, where signs of wear can be seen in stains,

frayed areas, patches which associate to events and experiences that has happened between the

garment and the wearer (Townsend 2015). Denim has an ingrained quality of recording the

wearers different stages life, which can be aesthetically and emotionally assessed by both

wearer and the surroundings (ibid.). Walker (2006) argues that exploring products that bear the

marks of time, can have a richness. However, people have gotten accustomed to new glossy

and perfect, which means that appreciation of gracefully aging will require a readjustment in

value system in relation to expectation of product aesthetics (ibid.).

2.5.5 Maintenance & Repair

Clothing maintenance and repair is a skill that enables people to ensure that their valued

possessions can get an extended lifetime. However as quality in garments has declined and

lifetimes have been shortened, there is very little incentive left to repair garment (Niinimäki &

Hassi 2011). Haines-Gadd et al. (2018) explains repair through the theme relationship, where

the craft of fixing and maintaining products can help establish an emotional connection. Further,

repair has the potential to create a ritual or habit for the user, which can further establish a

deeper bond (ibid.). There is a rising call for embracing the skills of repair and clothing

maintenance, and introduce more education in the field of repair to transition to a more

sustainable fashion future (Fletcher 2017). However, previous studies shows that garments

currently doesn’t lend themselves to be easily repaired, due to low quality that can create

complications in repair and alterations (Fletcher 2015a). Connor-crab (2017) highlights that

simple alterations such as changing the hem of a garment can be made extensively laborious,

as the quick turnaround can mean that quality checks are skipped, leaving hems uneven.

Further, extra buttons and swatches that help with repairs and alterations are rarely provided

with garments. However, reintroducing this could be a way to encourage repair practices

(Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a; WRAP 2015; WRAP 2012). Some of the challenges

that lie within repair include that it needs to be simple to get the user involved (van Nes &

Cramer 2005). Repair and maintenance gives potential for the user and the product to share an

experience together which can stimulate an emotional bond and thereby increase durability and

cut waste (Goworek et al. 2018). Product attachment which can happen through repair can

further foster brand attachment and thereby create brand loyalty (Chapman 2014). Mugge

(2018) highlights that we have a tendency to take better care of the products that we are attached

to. This idea is echoed by Ninnimäki (2011), who states that we handle clothes that are of high

value, with better care to extend their longevity, which means we are careful with maintenance

and we mend when necessary. Repair services can help extend the life of a garment, but

mending and repairing also serves as the potential to create a visceral link between the wearer

and the garment (Harper 2017; Norman 2004). Repair and maintenance can therefore act as an

important facilitator towards ED. Repair can also be facilitated as a product-service system,

which has the ability to produce structural changes in the way products are consumed, as

consumers will come back to the company for repair (Chapman 2016; Haug 2019).

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2.5.6 Transparency & Traceability

Products convey information and they work as storytellers, where users can establish unique

and personal histories with them, which through time can form layers of significance and

narrative (Chapman 2015). Evolving narrative experiences is one of the building blocks within

ED. It takes time to create these emotional bonds between user and object, that often emerge

from sustained interaction and associated with memories (Norman 2004). Initiating a

conversation between the user and the object establish the building block for a sustained

relationship. Haegblom & Budde (2021) states that keeping the conversation going after the

point of sales, can be achieved through a digital traceability tag, and have a potential in

prolonging the use of garments. As it can act as a tool that tells the story of the garment, as well

as ensure the functional aspects of the garments are kept, by presenting the user with

information regarding care, repair and potential upgrades. Transparency and traceability

innovations can be utilized to develop strategies that can spark the emotional side of longevity.

By delivering information about the garment at the point of acquisition, a relationship could

flourish between user and product as they user gains insight in the work and craft involved in

making the garment (Neto & Ferreira 2020).

Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED

Strategies Researchers Link with

(Haines-

Gadd et al.

2018)

Link with

(Chapman

2015)

Dependability

& Physical

durability

(Cooper 2010; Cooper et al.

2013a; Fletcher 2015a;

Niinimäki 2011)

o Integrity o Surface

Customisation

&

Personalisation

(Cramer 2011; Haeggblom &

Budde 2021; Laitala & Klepp

2011; Mugge et al. 2009; Neto

& Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki &

Hassi 2011; van den Berge et

al. 2020)

o Imagination

o Identity

o Materiality

o Consciousness

Flexible &

Modular

Design

(Chapman 2015; Cooper et al.

2016; Mugge et al. 2005; van

Nes & Cramer 2005)

o Evolvability

o Fiction

Gracefully

Ageing

(Connor-Crabb et al. 2016;

Earley 2017; Fletcher & Grose

2012; Laitala & Boks 2012;

Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)

o Narrative

o Evolvability

o Materiality

o Surface

o Narrative

Maintenance

& Repair

(Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et

al. 2013a; Fletcher 2017;

Goworek et al. 2018; Mugge

2018; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)

o Relationship o Attachment

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Transparency

& Traceability

(Chapman 2015; Haeggblom &

Budde 2021; Neto & Ferreira

2020; Norman 2004)

o Conversatio

ns

o Integrity

o Attachment

2.6 Summary

Summarised, it has been found that previous research shows that a great percentage of durable

garments are discarded and replaced while still functional (Chapman 2016). Few products were

found to be disposed due to functional failures, but due to a lack of engagement and

development of emotional bond (Niinimäki 2011). An emotional bond has potential to lead to

a protective behavior, and thereby improve the product retention and defer product replacement

(Mugge et al. 2006). This shows that extending the active life of clothing has potential to bring

both environmental benefits (Allwood et al. 2015), as well as offering the greatest savings

compared with other practices in relation to clothing lifecycle (WRAP 2012).

Addressing this through emotional durability shows potential, however many studies have

addressing integration of emotional durability through strategies is scarce. Previous studies

have provided conceptual frameworks, in relation to emotional durability (Chapman 2015;

Haines-Gadd et al. 2018; Norman 2004), which provide good background knowledge regarding

the phenomenon. In literature a variety of approaches for extending lifespans are discussed,

however not fully considered in relation to integration from a brand perspective.

This, from this review of literature, it’s evident that there is a gap in knowledge which needs to

be covered, in relation to integration of emotional durability. It’s therefore necessary to delve

into challenges and enablers to understand the potential within the emerging research field.

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3 Theoretical Framework

The theoretical framework acts as a guide for the research, which is derived from existing

theories in literature and validated by others (Grant & Osanloo 2014). It enables for an

understanding in the researcher’s lens to view the world. The theoretical chapter will enhance

and discuss the theory of DT relevant to ED from a brand perspective to gain understanding in

integration possibilities.

3.1 Motivation for the use of Design Thinking

EDD proposes the creation of products that endure the test of time in terms of technological-,

physical- and emotional durability (Chapman 2015). In the book Emotionally durable design:

Objects, experiences and empathy (2015) tools and ideas are presented that encourage people

to think about designing things that needs to be cherished and kept, rather than thrown away

prematurely. Chapman (2015) argues that product lifetime extension incorporates aspects of

lasting emotional – as well as physical perspective. The strategies that were discussed in the

literature review points out, that there is a need for changes in how products are developed and

designed to fit within ED. As well as understanding how value can be integrated in the

processes to create value for both companies and consumers. The literature highlight that

designing for ED requires innovative thinking, a deep understanding in users’ needs and desires

and alterations in the way businesses design products, where the creative thought-process used

by designers could be central to improving sustainability in the industry (Goworek et al. 2018).

Burcikova (2019) argues that the inherent complexity that lies within T&C and the relationship

between user and products requires activist agendas in DT-processes and user behaviour which

can foster longevity in the industry. Further, Baldassarre et al. (2020) state that design theory

can address environmental and societal issues through rethinking processes & operations to

foster innovation. DT has the potential to be utilised to develop innovative solutions for

complex problem, which means that it can be used as to overcome some of the challenges

identified within ED for longevity, by incorporating stakeholders, interests and value of humans

into the design process, through the use of collaborative work in multidisciplinary teams

(Brown 2008; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016). However a gap still remains in regard to utilising design

theories successfully to foster longevity and sustainability in business practice, which is a hurdle

that needs to be overcome, through ensuring that theoretical ideas are reframed (Tukker 2015).

3.2 Design Thinking

The fashion industry operates in a volatile and highly competitive environment, where agile,

creative, flexible recognition can ensure a competitive advantage (Agost & Vergara 2020).

Companies that encompass an entrepreneurial mindset and have a culture of innovation,

enhances the overall creativity within employees which can turn to new products, services and

business models, that challenge stagnated ways of operating. Design management scholars have

argued that design is suited for innovation as it’s human-centred while embracing ambiguity

and has a wide approach that is forward looking when it comes to problem solving (Mozota

2010; Stamm 2010). DT has appeared as a multidisciplinary human-centred approach to foster

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innovation and building new work processes in organisations. The act of designing includes

participatory involvement, and according to Simonsen et al. (2014) design revolves around a

process of investigating, understanding, reflecting, establishing, developing and supporting

mutual learning between involved participants, where a fundamental challenge lies within the

need to move away from just designing things but rather integrating systems and social

interaction into objects. DT has emerged from the design method movement, where the focus

was on understanding process and methods used by designers to successfully solve problems

(Buchanan 1992; Kimbell 2015). DT has been popularized by IDEO (IDEO nd), as a human-

centred, empathy-first approach to creativity and innovation. It collaboratively draws from a

toolkit to integrate needs of people, the possibilities of technology and the requirement for

business success. According to IDEO (nd) DT encompasses the ability to come up with

unconventional ideas that can be tested, while being open to fail and learn from them, all while

keeping people at the centre of every process. Interpretations of the term Design Thinking vary,

where descriptions from literature range from the ability to make sure you answer the right

problems (Norman 2004), ways to approach a problem (Cooper et al. 2009; Kimbell 2015), a

key activity within management (Cooper et al. 2009), as a general theory of design (Kimbell

2015), as the best way to be creative and innovate (Buchanan 1992; Johansson‐Sköldberg et al.

2013), a method that match needs with technological feasibility and viable business strategy for

innovation and enablement (Brown 2008).

The key themes that characterize DT for this thesis are as followed:

o Human centeredness: the needs of humans and their preferences are placed at the centre

of the design process (Brown 2008; Bruce & Cooper 1997; Cooper et al. 2009)

o Collaboration: DT requires collaboration, as it’s a multidisciplinary and requires a

design team, as well as inclusion of stakeholders as the process moves across different

levels (Designforlongevity.com 2021; IDEO nd)

o Non-linearity: DT encourages the exploration of iterative cycles of thinking,

prototyping and testing. This prevents design teams and stakeholders to stick to one

solution at the beginning that may not be optimal, but instead iterative cycles push

boundaries to create the most optimal product/service to ensure longevity (Brown 2008;

IDEO nd)

o Optimism: DT is based on a fundamental belief that everyone can create a change,

which shows that DT requires optimism (IDEO nd)

DT acts as a process where a team that works from multidisciplinary fields apply a set of design

practices to a challenge or problem that needs to be solved and thereby leading to new

innovations and changes in practice (Brown 2008). According to Cooper, Junginger &

Lockwood (2009) it encourages the exploration of several solutions through the focus on

human-cantered needs, where an iterative design process aims to find new solutions. ED is a

complex aspect which through DT can reach explorative design processes that solves some of

the obstacles within the field of ED, while focusing on the needs of the users as a basis for the

design process. A key element in designing for longevity is incorporating the need of users and

have an understanding in their desires, demands and behaviour to establish a connection

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between product and user. Creative problem solving, which DT is part of has not been embraced

much by the fashion industry but could theoretically work as a frontier for sustainable fashion,

as it has potential to come up with innovative solutions for lifetime expansion of T&C

(Designforlongevity.com 2021). A human-cantered design approach requires research and

iterative development but has potential to unlock new knowledge and ideas that can provide a

competitive advantage, while solving the issues that the T&C industry is facing. IDEO (nd)

argues that DT allows for better informed product management decisions. The core priority of

DT is finding the perfect point of intersection between desirability, feasibility and viability. It

thereby allows for asking the right questions which can propel creativity. The desirability lens

identifies needs, dreams and behaviours of the people who will be affected by the solution

provided from DT. Once the challenges are examined through the lens of desirability, possible

solutions can be identified through the lens of feasibility and viability, by asking questions such

as “what is technically feasible” and “what can be viable from a financial perspective” (IDEO

nd). The final solution that the involved parties identify during the design process, should lie

within the area where the three lenses overlap (Figure 2)

Figure 2 – DT adapted from IDEO (nd)

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DT doesn’t follow a linear process. It seeks to understand the user while challenging the

assumptions, and thereby redefine the problems in attempt to identify the alternative strategies

and solutions, that aren’t necessarily apparent instantly at the first level of understanding

(Norman 2004). The most important aspect of DT according to IDEO (nd) is that the process is

iterative and expansive, where multiple solutions are identified. The three levels of design that

was explained in the literature review, shows that designers should not stop at the first level,

but iteratively delve into more levels to gain deep understanding of the user and from there

several solutions can be identified. DT requires moving through five main phases that can be

seen in Table 3 (CentreforSustainableFashion 2021; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016; IDEO nd).

However, in some literature three phases are highlighted, which include inspiration, ideation

and implementation (Brown 2008; Earley & Andersen 2014). Going through the phases enables

companies to solve problems that have emerged due to situations of uncertainty, ambiguity and

instability and thereby find appropriate solutions (Geissdoerfer et al. 2016).

Table 3 – Design Thinking 5-step process and parameters

Empathise

o Frame design challenge o Stay open minded o Cross disciplinary

exchange

o Redefine needs o Explore perspective o Playful innovation

Define

o Brainstorm o Clarify purpose o Gather knowledge & data

o contextualise o plan activities o Customer research

Ideate

o System approach thinking o Critical practice o explore

o experiment with new

methods

o knowledge sharing o keep collecting feedback

Prototype

o risk, test, fail, test o Iterative versions o Tweak concept

o Interact & respond – co-

create

o Play & Practice o Explore solutions

Test

o Pilot Testing o Get feedback from users o Embrace failure

o Monitor & evaluate o Build partnerships o Communication tools for

new designs

In a design process several stakeholders and people within different departments are involved.

This can create obstacles as developing, categorizing and organizing ideas can be difficult,

which DT can help overcome, as it can organizes the core ideas and enable everyone involved

to keep track of the progress and continuously iterate and push the ideas further, and thereby

arrive at successful solutions (IDEO nd). DT is a problem-solving approach that combines a

holistic user-centred perspective with both rational and analytical research with the main goal

of creating innovative solutions to complex challenges (Brown 2008).

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DT theory builds on the premise that understanding the desires and needs of both users as well

as utilizing the tools and knowledge from the company to iterative test solutions (IDEO nd). It

seeks to equip the people involved with an open mind that can help channel creativity and

imagination. DT allows for an establishment between designer’s sensibility and methods, that

enables to respond to people’s needs, while merging it with available technology, that is suitable

and feasible. As follows, by utilising an appropriate business strategy, customers’ needs can be

transformed into value and thereby create new market opportunity (Cooper et al. 2009).

3.3 Design Thinking theory in the context of Textile & Clothing

The current challenges that the fashion industry is facing requires creativity and imagination

that moves beyond the norm to make rapid changes on different levels within the field. Utilizing

DT can provide a leverage for engagement and transformation, where the process of DT

requires reflection and development of ideas and solution throughout the process. Putting

emphasis on this flexibility assures that the solution proceeds in the direction wanted according

to the challenges set out. Simonsen et al. (2014) states that designing for a more sustainable

world requires an active reflection on the context. As well as reconfiguring agendas and

technologies, where emphasis should be put on collaboration between stakeholders and actors,

who have a shared vision for the future to ensure sustainable solutions. By using DT the

collaborative processes are used to meet people’s needs and not only focus on what is

technically feasible. It further allows for more value for the consumers, as it a process which is

inspired by real customer needs, which isn’t always the case in the traditional supply chain

(Geissdoerfer et al. 2016). Further Earley and Andersen (2014) argue that designing thinking

within the T&C industry has the potential to make challenges within the industry more tangible

and thus make more actionable efforts to overcome these obstacles. DT allows for co-creation

across organisations, which means that future needs can be met through collaborative &

multidisciplinary design, where innovation can be created through empathy, prototyping,

synthesising, communication and evaluation (Valentine et al. 2017). Further, it has been

claimed that by utilising DT approaches, the likelihood of producing products and services that

have a positive sustainable outcome increases, as it involves methods that seeks suitable

solutions for advanced problems (Cooper et al. 2009). However, implementing theory into

practice can be challenging as there can be conflicts in language in relation to the difference

between business practice and academic research, which needs to be considered when

implementing theory into practice (Baldassarre et al. 2020).

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4 Methodology

The following chapter aims at explaining the research methodology for the study. It includes a

detailed description of the research design, thorough justification to the applied methods,

collection and analysis of the collected data. It includes a discussion of the quality and ethical

considerations needed to fulfil the research aims.

4.1 Research Design

The lack of scientific research on ED as a facilitator for longevity, in relation to brand

perspective, support the need to study the concept of ED utilising theory grounded in DT. The

discussed research problem and the reasoned purpose influenced the choice of research design.

Due to the RQ’s formed, an exploratory qualitative research approach was chosen to gain a

detailed understanding of ED from a brand perspective. This method was deemed as the most

appropriate (Yin 2014). As qualitative research has the ability to provide a deeper understanding

of social phenomenon (Flick et al. 2004), and therefore proved imperative for this study. This

thesis therefore uses an exploratory, abductive and qualitative approach using a single case

study, to develop new scientific insights in the topic of ED. Where abduction strategy aims at

exploring and understanding a phenomenon and is therefore a suitable strategy for this thesis.

4.1.1 Research Strategy – the Case Study

Referring to the methods discussed above in conjunction with the aims of this research, it was

found that a qualitative approach would be suitable to collect rich and detailed data (Ritchie

2014). A single case study was selected to help answer the RQ’s, in this case the ‘hows’ of the

phenomenon of ED and its integration to foster longevity in the T&C s industry. Utilizing case

study as research strategy aims at understanding the dynamics of events present within a setting,

which in this case aims at understanding the phenomenon of ED within the context of the T&C

industry with a focus on brand perspective (Eisenhardt 1989). Further, corroborated by Yin

(2014, p. 13), who highlights that a case study can be defined as an empirical enquire that aims

at investigating contemporary phenomenon in a real life context. The case study at hand enabled

for observation and understanding of the phenomenon, through rich empirical descriptions of

particular instances of the phenomenon, through semi-structured interviews, which were

supported by various data sources to reveal multiple facets of the phenomenon, which further

can be utilised to provide description and test theories (Eisenhardt & Graebner 2007; Rashid et

al. 2019; Seuring 2008). In addition, one of the main elements of case study research, after the

definition of framework and questions, is the unit of analysis or case (Yin 2014). In the research

for this thesis, the design follows a single case study to dive deep into the phenomenon of ED

within a fashion brand to foster longevity. The unit of analysis, which is the case to be studied,

which in this case is related to the phenomenon of ED and what challenges and enablers the

phenomenon encompasses, and ultimately how it can be integrated through innovative use of

DT. Thus, the single unit of analysis is the case. Moreover, supported by the unit of data

collection of the case study, which are the sources of empirical data. In this case semi-structured

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interviews and secondary data, which includes website articles, sustainability reports and

internal documents, were used (Yin 2014, pp. 101-102)

According to Yin (2014) a single case study can be seen as an adequate research methodology,

as it focuses on the analysis of a distinctive situation, that is contemporary in its nature, while

there is no possibility of behavioural manipulation for the research involved. Further, single

case study has the potential to contribute to knowledge and theory building (ibid.) A single

case-study can richly describe the existence of a phenomenon in this case ED (Eisenhardt &

Graebner 2007). The research process for case studies is similar to those used within other

empirical research strategies, which Stuart et al (2002, p. 420) proposed in a five-stage research

process (Figure 3), which was utilised when developing the research at hand.

Case studies have in recent years become a widespread research method both in social sciences

and business research. However, critique points needs to be considered, which includes that the

method lack in relation to being able to provide a basis for scientific generalisation (Dubois &

Gadde 2002; Yin 2016). However, instead of seeing this as an obstacle it can be approached as

an opportunity, where according to Dubois & Gadde (2002, p. 554) “learning from a particular

case, should be considered a strength not a weakness”. Further, case studies have been criticised

for its lack in rigor (Ellram 1996). This has been overcome through carrying out the research

using a structural approach and continuously documenting the process, which can be seen in

the research protocol (Appendix 1). Which allows for in-depth analysis of the contemporary

phenomenon of ED (Seuring 2008). For this research an exploratory approach was chosen to

be the most relevant as the research relates to gaining in-depth understanding of a fairly

unknown phenomenon (Ellram 1996). Through the exploratory approach explanation can be

built through the analysis of the case study, that can explain the phenomenon of ED and the

links with the theoretical lens of DT.

4.2 Scientific Reasoning

The study at hand aims to create an understanding of the case-company’s approach to ED to

initiate a deeper understanding of the phenomenon in relation to longevity. As mentioned prior,

the literature within ED and longevity recognises that DT can be utilised to foster innovation

within the field to overcome some of the challenges that the T&C industry is facing (Chapman

2015; Norman 2004; Simonsen 2014). ED has been researched by scholars and has been

deemed an important aspect to mitigate premature garment disposal, however scholars identify

STAGE 1 Research Question

STAGE 2 Instrument

Development

STAGE 3 Data

Gathering

STAGE 4 Data

Analysis

STAGE 5 Dissemination

Figure 3 – The five-stage research process model adapted from Stuart et al. (2002)

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the need to further investigate the topic from a different perspective than the consumer-based

perspective (Connor-Crabb 2017; Fletcher 2015a; Mugge et al. 2005; Niinimäki & Koskinen

2015). This shows that gaps in literature is evident and there is a need for more research

focusing on ED from a brand perspective to make it a feasible solution for the T&C industry.

The existing theoretical approaches within DT, were discovered to offer a foundation that could

be deemed useful for the context of this study.

Given the aforementioned information within the topic, and keeping in mind the purpose of the

study, which is to further explore ED; the research design will take on an abductive approach.

Within abduction strategy lies the aim of exploring and understanding a phenomenon through

the lens of actors (Rashid et al. 2019), while it involves modifying the logic of general theory

in order to reconcile with contextual characteristics (Yin 2014). Abduction, unlike induction,

accepts existing theory, which can help improve the theoretical strength of case analysis, as

well as utilising a more flexible approach which enables for deeper knowledge building (Dubois

& Gadde 2002).

Due to the complexity of the phenomenon of ED, an abductive approach was deemed to be

specifically suitable for the case study compared to other approaches. In congruence with the

exploratory nature of the research, the abductive approach aimed at obtaining rich and detailed

data. That allowed for exploration of the phenomenon, where participants provided their

knowledge on the topic which help identify and explain themes and patterns within the research

(Flick et al. 2004).

To ensure better quality within a qualitative study, process documentation and triangulation

was included (Mayring 2002). Bryman and Bell (2011) explains that a qualitative method has

a focus on interpretation and tries to understand the world through the eyes of other actors. This

therefore shows that a qualitative method was suitable for this thesis, as it aims to understand

ED from a brand perspective and therefore be supportive in discovering different aspects of the

phenomenon to gain new insights.

4.3 Data Collection

For this study, both secondary and primary data was collected in connection to the case study.

Often in case study research, several data collection methods are employed or used in

combination. Utilizing at least two separate sources to collect data allows for triangulation

(Yin 2014) and can be applied to the study “to add rigor, breadth, complexity, richness and

depth to the study”(Rashid et al. 2019, p. 6). This section will describe the different applied

data collection techniques.

4.3.1 Sampling method and case selection

An essential aspect to all case studies, is the case selection and sampling method. Within data

collection the first stage is determining the appropriate participants, who can contribute to the

case study. To ensure the quality and insightfulness in regard to the findings for this study. A

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purposive sample method was applied. Instead of selecting the sample by random, the purposive

sample helps ensure that respondents can contribute to the study with their knowledge on the

topic, that thereby gives insights in relation to answering the research questions (Bryman &

Bell 2011). This further means that the sampling provides respondents, who are suitable for

illuminating and extending on the knowledge within the field, to gain new perspective, which

can help achieve a valued representativeness and precision in regard to the topic. (Eisenhardt

& Graebner 2007). After reviewing the different actors, a selection was made in regard to the

most relevant and suitable actor for extending the knowledge on ED from a brand perspective.

The first contact was established with the selected case company, where it was discussed, what

departments would be of most interest in relation to answering the research questions. For this

research the sustainability, quality, design and communications department proved to be most

suitable in relation to providing rich data.

4.3.2 The case-company

The brand that was utilised for the study, is a Swedish company, that was launched in 2017,

with a design studio and head office located in Stockholm. The brand has 200 employees

working in the head office including designers, architects, chefs, buyers, patternmakers,

production team, garment technologists, marketeers and graphic designers, and can be classified

as an SME. The brand was founded with a mission to make good and sustainable choices simple

and influence a positive change on the industry. The foundation of the company is built upon

longevity and all the products are designed with long life in mind, where consumers can cherish

and love the products and build attachment, thus making the brand relevant for this case study.

The company offers a broad range of products including fashion items for men, women & kids,

a broad assortment of home products as well as a vegetarian café, which tries to inspire people

to live a more sustainable lifestyle. According to the company designing for a longer life, as

well as advancing in the use of responsible and ethical produced materials are among the main

goals for the brand. Their mission is to democratise high quality in products and promote

sustainability in everyday design, while building long-lasting relationships with their

surrounding community. The case-company was a suitable choice for this research as they have

a lot of emphasis on designing for longevity, which means that they’ve started integrating

aspects of emotional durability into their business, and therefore were a fitting choice in relation

to highlighting challenges and enablers for emotional durability. Further the design processes

within the company shows DT processes which thereby allows for unravelling data surrounding

the theme of DT and how these approaches can be used to ensure innovation and the integration

of new processes to create a change in the industry.

4.3.3 Primary Data

Primary data is data which is collected directly by the researcher using original sources, which

is aimed specifically at the research at hand (Bryman & Bell 2011). In relation to case study

research, literature has identified three possible methods of collecting primary data: surveys,

observations and interviews (Blatter & Haverland 2012). In the research at hand the data

collection included semi-structured interviews, which according to Yin (2014), is among one

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of the most important sources of case study evidence. The current pandemic made observations

impossible as the participants were working from home, which meant that qualitative interviews

were chosen to learn about the different aspects of integrating ED from a brand perspective. As

well as further extend the different views, beliefs and motivations regarding the topic and its

feasibility in integration within the T&C industry utilising DT. In accordance with the

explorative characteristics within the study and the abductive approach. Semi-structured

interviews were deemed appropriate as it offers a guiding structure of the topics connected to

the literature review and the theoretical framework, which thereby ensures that the interview

guide was aligned with the aim of the research, while offering some flexibility and freedom

(Bryman & Bell 2011). Utilising semi-structured interviews allowed the researcher to gain a

rich and detailed set of data (Eisenhardt & Graebner 2007). According to Kvale and Brinkmann

(2018), it’s important for the interviewer to have a foundational knowledge regarding the field

of research as it allows for qualified follow-up questions. Prior to the interviews an extensive

literature review was done on the field of ED and DT, as well as collecting secondary data on

the case company, which provided a foundational knowledge base for the development of a

detailed interview guide.

Primary data was collected through semi-structured interviews with employees from the case-

company. The interviews were conducted one by one, with the focus on understanding how ED

was perceived and utilised within different departments, and how innovative thought process

could be created through the tools within design-thinking including collaboration, co-creation

and a human centred approach. Therefore, different departments within the case company were

contacted to ensure different perspectives and understandings, and how they influence each

other. A total number of four interviews were conducted over a three-week period as shown in

Table 4. The interview guide was sent to the participants prior to the actual interview, to allow

the participants to prepare more detailed answers. Further the consent form was provided and

agreed on in advance to ensure anonymity and reduce uncertainties of sharing information and

instead increase the confidence of the trustworthiness and limit the possibility of response bias

(Kvale & Brinkmann 2009). The interviews lasted between 35-70 minutes. The interviews were

conducted using video conference tools including zoom and Microsoft teams, as the pandemic

didn’t allow for face-to-face interviews. All the interviews were recorded with the consent from

all participants, and following the interview the audio data was transcribed, where personal data

was anonymised. The transcripts were sent to the respondents for review and approval.

A funnel approach was taken, where more general questions was the starting point progressing

into more specific ones (Brinkmann & Kvale 2018). The semi-structured character that was

utilised for the interview, allowed to better define the concepts to be studied and allowed to

diverge to discover or elaborate on information which may not have been thought of prior to

the interview. The semi-structured nature of the interviews, allowed for follow up and probing

questions to allow for elaboration of answers, however these questions were not presented in

the interview guide, but shown later in the transcriptions (Bryman & Bell 2011). The literature

review provided knowledge on ED for longevity and by utilising a semi-structured format it

allowed for a more open-minded approach, where the participants could share their insights on

how ED can be used in practice. The theoretical framework supported this an allowed for some

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overarching themes to be investigated within the interview guide. As ED is an emerging

research field and DT hasn’t been adopted broadly within T&C, the semi-structuredness

allowed for more flexibility, while having a guiding set of questions. To ensure that the

questions were unbiased, objectively and open; a focus was put on “how” questions. It’s been

explained that “how” questions are more fruitful compared to “why” questions, as they invite

respondents to discuss specific conditions or circumstances in detail (Kvale & Brinkmann

2009). “Why” questions were avoided as they have a tendency to be followed by an overly

intellectualised or simplified answer rather than providing a rich and descriptive narrative.

Further “why” questions can be intimidating for respondents as they can pressure respondents

to provide socially acceptable answers (Bryman & Bell 2011). Furthermore, leading question

were avoided, as the aim was to get rich, detailed data (Brinkmann & Kvale 2018). See

Appendix 1 for the full interview guide.

Table 4 – Overview of Participants and their role within the company

PARTICIPANT ROLE DATE DURATION YEARS AT

BRAND

P1 Head of Sustainability 07.04.2021 38min 42 sec 5 years

P2 Copy Writer 07.04.2021 1h 09min 15sec 3 years

P3 Quality Coordinator 16.04.2021 50min 47 sec 3 years

P4 Senior Designer 21.04.2021 36min 59 sec 3 years

4.3.4 Secondary Data

In extension to the semi-structured interviews, which serve as primary data, secondary data was

gathered relating to the case-study company. This decision was made to be able to compare the

findings from the interviews to other sources, and thereby being able to place the findings in a

more general context (Flick et al. 2004). In addition Yin (2014) states that collecting data from

multiple sources allows for triangulation of the data, which can further be seen as a strategy to

add rigor, breadth, complexity, richness and depth to the study (Flick et al. 2004). Triangulation

can help address the potential problem of construct validity, as multiple sources of evidence

can provide multiple measures of the same phenomenon (Yin 2014). Furthermore, collecting

and pre-analysing the data served as preparation to gain knowledge prior to the interview. This

thereby established knowledge for the research about the organisational context prior to the

interviews, which then strengthened the credibility of the interviewer (Kvale & Brinkmann

2009). By including secondary data the research ensured that the feasibility and breadth of the

research increased (Bryman & Bell 2011). The secondary data included reports such as

sustainability reports that were publicly available on the website, as well as articles published

on the website on topics including: longevity, durability, design processes, collaboration. This

was further supported by internal documents which was provided by the quality coordinator.

The internal documents provided insight on different aspects that supported what was said in

the interviews, where a big focus was on care and costumer knowledge building to support

longevity. Table 5 presents an overview of the secondary data compiled through this study.

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Table 5 – Overview of Secondary data collected

NO. TITLE DESCRIPTION OF CONTENT DOCUMENT

TYPE

D1 Sustainability Report

2019

Provides insight on the sustainability efforts that the company

is engaging with, gives a good overview of their position

regarding longevity.

Company

Report

D2 Sustainability Report

2018

Reporting on the current environmental and social

performance in relation to sustainability aspects. Gives

insight to the sustainability priorities within the company

Company

Report

D3 Facts Materials,

Suppliers & Longevity

The company has a section on their website dedicated to

sustainability related aspects, where the importance of

materials, suppliers and longevity is described

Case-Company

Website

D4 News article on the

impact of responsible

design

An article that describes the impact of responsible design,

giving insight on using resources responsibly. Making

deliberate choices in the design process that facilitate. A

change. Focusing on functionality and seasonless styles, with

longevity in mind.

Case-Company

Website

D5 News article on

responsibility for

impact

An article that highlights the current impact of the fashion

industry. And gives insight about making a change through

collaboration, pilot testing and ensuring quality. While

setting clear objectives for the future.

Case-Company

Website

D6 News article on store

designs

An article that describes the store designs, and how the

interior is designed with longevity in mind, using durable

products and timeless design. Where a lot of research has

gone into perfecting the store design.

Case-Company

Website

D7 News article on the

work that goes into the

products

An article on the design process, how continuous feedback

allows for iterative refinement, to ensure the best possible

products season after season

Case-Company

Website

D8 News article on co-

creation

An article that describes how the company uses co-creation

with suppliers, to facilitate better product development, while

engaging with relationship building

Case-Company

Website

D9 Sustainability Report

2020

The latest sustainability report, giving insight on the current

sustainability efforts within the company. Gives insight on

longevity and its approach to creating a change.

Company

Report

D10 Repair & mending

denim

An internal document on how to inspire customers to repair

and mend their denim. Gives insight in the process of

repairing and how it can establish connection

Internal

Document

D11 Care and cleaning

training material

A training guide on different care and cleaning products

available in store. To give sales assistant the right knowledge

to ensure customers can take care of the products

Internal

Document

D12 Denim information A document with information regarding denim. Including

information about selvedge denim and the different

characteristics of denim. It gives insight on how to break in

denim to ensure gracefully ageing

Internal

Document

D13 Care training material A training guide for the employees to gain insight in how

different materials can be cared for to allow for the

information to be passed on to customers to ensure

knowledge on care

Internal

Document

D14 3-1 series A document on a jacket series, which gives insight to modular

garments which can be mixed and matched according to style.

Offering the possibility to build a jacket which has a

detachable lining and can be combined.

Internal

Document

D15 Sustainability

introduction training

A training for all new employees covering the most important

aspects of sustainability and quality within the company. Internal

Document

D16 Sustainability focus Highlighting the three core sustainability focuses within the

company: sustainable materials, prolonged lifespan and

transparency

Internal

Document

D17 Down and feather care A document giving insight on how to care for down and

feather products. As it was highlighted by the quality Internal

Document

- 34 -

coordinator that down and feathers were one of the product

categories that costumers struggle

d with

D18 Denim care A document providing all employees with information

regarding denim care and how to ensure costumers are

provided with knowledge on how to care for denim to prolong

the life of garments

Internal

Document

D19 Care for viscose

garments

Viscose was highlighted as a product group where customers

are unaware of its characteristics and how to care for them,

which is why a document had been developed to ensure

information is passed on

Internal

Document

D20 Wash care for

naturally dyed

products

A document providing information on how to care for

naturally dyed product. To create less chemical output natural

dyes have been introduced but require different care

instruction.

Internal

Document

D21 Care for wood

products

A document on how to prolong the life of wood products,

giving customers insight on the different ways to care for the

products to ensure a longer lifetime

Internal

Document

D22 How to polish silver

and solid brass

An internal document providing information on how to care

for silver and brass items, as they require specific care to

ensure a long life

Internal

Document

D23 Jewellery care guide A document providing information to the employees on how

to ensure the best way to store jewellery. The care guide gives

insight on how to take care of the products

Internal

Document

D24 Leather garments care The leather care document provides information regarding

the sturdy and durable material and how to ensure that leather

age with beauty. Leather has the potential to last for a very

long time of the right care is taken

Internal

Document

D25 Knit care Document providing the employees with extensive

information regarding knitted products, highlighting that

most knits rarely needing washing but can be air dried to

prevent too much washing

Internal

Document

D26 Leather shoes care A document on the care of shoes, as a lot of the company’s

shoes have leather soles, they need to be provided with

certain care to prolong their life. The document provides

employee with information to pass on to customers

Internal

Document

D27 Linen care A document providing information on linen. As linen is one

of the materials that gets better with age, it’s important to

ensure that customers are aware of how it needs to be cared

for.

Internal

Document

*To ensure the confidentiality of the participating respondent and

the case-company, URLs are not disclosed in the table, but is

available in an encrypted case study database.

4.4 Data Analysis

In case study research, analysis of the data is often neglected, where researchers fails to develop

an analytical strategy, as it’s been deemed complex to analyse case study data (Yin 2014).

However, several methods for analysis of case study research have been developed to ease the

complications. As previously mentioned, this study follows a qualitative analysis for both

primary and secondary data. Utilising iterative processing which has been deemed an important

viewpoint, to examine data during the whole process (Bryman & Bell 2011). The study

embraced a manual thematic analysis, where a coding frame was used to organise both primary

and secondary data. As data analysis had been found to be one of the most complex phases of

qualitative research (Thorne 2000), a lot of time was set aside for the task, to be able for the

researcher to spend as much time as possible with the data, to get an immersive experience and

gain the most detailed understanding of the data possible (Coffey & Atkinson 1996).

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The primary data included transcripts of the semi-structured interviews, which is a time-

consuming process, but provides benefit in the quality of the research. As it helps to correct

natural limitations of memory, while it allows for a more in detail examination of what people

said, as well as the possibility to repeatedly go through the data (Bryman & Bell 2011). By

transcribing the interviews in verbatim, it enabled for more confidence in the data collection.

The transcripts were approved by all respondents, where a thematic analysis followed. This

method has been recognised as a descriptive method, that is appropriate for qualitative research,

while being able to identify and analyse pattern within the data, to understand similarities as

well as different perspectives within the data (Braun & Clarke 2006; Nowell et al. 2017). The

process of thematic analysis was well documented, and a consistent approach was followed, to

address the critique against the method (Nowell et al. 2017). In this thesis the thematic analysis

was guided by an approach, which was presented in thematic analysis: Striving to meet the

trustworthiness criteria by Nowell et al. (2017), that has been proposed by Braun and Clarke

(2006), which includes six phases:

Table 6 – Six phases of thematic analysis, adapted from (Nowell et al. 2017)

Phase 1: Familiarising

yourself with the data

Phase 2: Generating initial

codes

Phase 3: Searching for

themes

Phase 4: Reviewing the

themes

Phase 5: Defining and

naming the themes

Phase 6: Producing the report

Thematic coding was used for the interview transcripts and the secondary documents, where it

was directed by the aspects of DT in connection with ED as discussed in the previous chapter.

The transcripts and secondary documents were compiled in a word document, where the first

set of notes were added to start understanding patterns and see similarities and initial codes.

Significant parts of the text were highlighted as the text was re-read. The next step involved

adding preliminary codes into the transcript and document margins. Preliminary themes were

gathered from the existing literature, which was utilised in the coding of the interviews and

supporting documents these included:

o Current fashion

system

o Economic

situation

o Lack of consumer

knowledge

o Planned obsolescence

o Stimulation

attachment

o Physical

durability

o Fit o Transparency &

traceability

o Story telling o building

narrative

o Graceful ageing o Product service

systems

o Modular design o Customisation o Personalisation o Repair and alteration

Further the theoretical framework provided key concepts that were used in the coding process.

The theoretical framework helped define some of the initial codes to use in relation to

understanding integration possibilities within emotional durability, these included:

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o Problem

solving

o Human

centeredness

o Innovation o Design as a starting

point

o Brainstorm o Iteration o Feedback loops o Knowledge sharing

o Collaboration o Creativity o Pilot testing o Build partnerships

These themes all became evident during the analysis of the gathered data and helped in refining

the final themes. In the process of analysing the data the researcher utilised iterative cycles

going through the data again and again to gain as much detail as possible and encounter various

patterns within the data, and thereby develop the codes as much as possible (Ritchie 2014).

The preliminary coding resulted in 1145 rows of codes, across both transcripts and documents.

These rows of codes were then entered into an excel worksheet with supporting code keywords,

to establish and identify overlapping codes and those that lacked a focus, the codes were colour-

coded to gain insight in the most important ones (Appendix- 74 -1). The codes were then

collated into hierarchical categories, which later became the preliminary themes (Saldaña

2013). Categories and themes were then further evaluated following an iterative process to

ensure the best possible codes and themes with good supporting quotes and example of this can

be seen in Table 7. The final iteration of codes that emerged from the data analysis resulted in

10 themes which had a total of 26 sub-themes, the themes were divided into the categories of

challenges, enablers and integration of ED focusing on the different phases of DT. The final

themes that emerged from the data are further explained in chapters 5.1-5.3.

Table 7 – Coding example for challenges

RQ Main Theme Sub-Theme Initial code Quote example

Current

Fashion Cycle

Influx of new “you’re producing newness

constantly” P3

1 Challenges Lack of time ”Today, when working with

these kinds of big companies,

it’s mass production, it’s lack

of time. The product doesn’t get

enough love. There may not be

enough wear- and strength tests

of the products” P4

Economic

situation

“We need new ways how we

can produce fewer products but

gain money. For example,

gaining money through

mending products in store, so

we can earn money in a

different way” P4

Consumer

Mindset

Lack of

knowledge

“I see so many people who are

walking with shoes, that need to

have the soles changed” P2

Disposable

mindset

“It’s very hard for companies

who are equal, with mass

- 37 -

production, where the

customers know that if they buy

garments from that company,

that they won’t last long,

causing them to treat them

differently” P4

The secondary data that was collected through searching the case company website and gaining

access to internal document provided by the company after the interview. The documents were

utilised to strengthen the findings of the semi-structured interviews (Bryman & Bell 2011).

Thus, the discoveries and concepts emerging from the secondary data helped elaborate on the

primary data rather than studying the secondary data separately. The activities of reducing data,

displaying data and later drawing conclusion and verification, is a favourable approach within

abductive research (Bryman & Bell 2011).

As discussed previously the interview data was triangulated with the data from the secondary

data. The data from the interviews were triangulated by comparing information to complement

and verify the data accumulated from the interviews. Both the information that was publicly

available as well as the internal documents enabled to support the findings from the interviews,

which converged the results and ensured that what was said in the interviews was reinforced by

data coming from supplementary documents. Using multiple sources of evidence thereby

allowed for making more accurate and convincing conclusions and thus strengthening the

research. Thereby, being able to develop a more comprehensive understanding of the

phenomenon (Carter et al. 2014; Yin 2014).

4.5 Research Quality

To secure the high quality of the research. The research process was followed according to

suitable methodological recommendation within the reviewed literature. While the chosen

research design was selected in accordance with its ability to answer the research questions

within the given timeframe.

The three prominent criteria for the evaluation of the quality of a social research include:

reliability, replication and validity (Bryman & Bell 2011). The research quality was ensured

through the use of multiple sources, where both semi-structured interview transcripts, reports,

website articles, internal documents including guides and information sheets were used, to

provide multiple sources of evidence (Yin 2014). A single case was utilised, and to ensure the

research quality, a focus was on interviewing respondents from different departments, to gain

broad, in-depth and varied insights. Further the respondents were selected under careful

consideration to get the best possible data, thus improving the quality of the research. The most

prominent data, was acquired through semi-structured interviews, which Kvale and Brinkman

(2018) explains that the quality of interviews, depends on the interviewer knowledge and

craftmanship. In this case the author’s prior knowledge within the topic was strengthened

through the presented literature review and immersive understanding of secondary data, that

contributed to the quality of the research. According to Eisenhardt (1989) ensuring validity and

- 38 -

reliability of research, includes a thorough and transparent presentation of the process, which

means that better constructs can be reached.

4.5.1 Construct Validity

Construct validity can be challenging in relation to case studies, however tactics were utilised

in this research to overcome these obstacles and thereby increase construct validity (Yin 2014).

This included using multiple sources of evidence, in this case using both interviews with

respondents from various departments, published secondary data from the case company’s

website as well as internal documents. This data was then triangulated to converge information

from different sources, which further help strengthen the construct validity (Blatter &

Haverland 2012; Ellram 1996; Seuring 2008). To enhance the credibility of the results of the

interviews, the respondents were asked to review the transcripts and give feedback. The

construct validity was further improved, by providing a logical and clear flow throughout the

report. This included a detailed in-depth literature review to set the scene for the study, and a

detailed description of the methodology, to ensure an overview and explanation of the choices

made within the study. The logic of the report was discussed in detail at multiple times with the

supervisor assigned as well as peers, who provided insightful written feedback, which helped

ensure a logical flow of the research.

4.5.2 Internal Validity

Internal validity is concerned with the degree of confidence that the causal relationship that is

being tested is trustworthy and not being influenced by other factors or variables (Bryman &

Bell 2011; Yin 2016). However, this research quality is not applicable to exploratory studies,

which this study is. The underlying concerns of internal validity could still be addressed. For

example, the research at hand uses triangulation, that through iterative process of analysing the

same data set to validate the findings and reach saturation for a suitable thematic analysis.

Furthermore, receiving feedback on the transcripts enhanced the internal validity (Bryman &

Bell 2011; Chapman 2016; Yin 2014)

4.5.3 External Validity

External validity is related to defining the domain to which a study’s findings can be generalised

(Yin 2014), however the purpose and aim for this research had qualitative interest, which means

that it was not possible nor desirable to establish a generalisation from the findings, but rather

explain the findings in a specific research setting. The reliability of the data guaranteed through

a clearly chosen sample, who could provide rich and detailed information on the phenomenon

of ED. The thesis intends to generate a deeper understanding of ED and how DT can help

overcome some of the challenges within the integration of ED.

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4.5.4 Reliability

Reliability evolves around demonstrating that the operations of the study, for example the data

collection procedures can be repeated with the same result (Yin 2014). The goal within

reliability is therefore to minimise error and bias in the study (Bryman & Bell 2011). In relation

to the case study a research protocol (Appendix 1) was followed, that ensured continuous

documentation of steps and a transparent process (Yin 2014). Reliability within this study was

achieved by including detailed descriptions of the steps taken, including the decisions made to

support the study. The methodology chapter enables the reader to gain insight in the procedure,

the interview guide that was used for primary data collection is available in the appendix to

ensure transparency of the process. A case study data base was used to organise the data

collection, which included the approved transcripts, secondary documentary data, coding

schemes and continuous notes. Further by utilising triangulation to verify patterns and

categories helped to increase reliability and rigor of the study (Rashid et al. 2019). Throughout

the research, the author participated in supervision and peer review seminars, which

additionally enabled for quality check of the study (Yin 2014)

4.5.5 Ethical Considerations

The significance of research ethics is something which shouldn’t be missed and has been

recognised in recent years with the four pillars of ethical research, which includes: autonomy,

beneficence, non-maleficence and justice (Townsend et al. 2010). In addition, Bryman and Bell

(2011) argues that ethical issues should not be ignored and should be considered an important

part in doing research. The research was therefore conducted with ethical considerations in

mind at all times, especially in the interview process. Within the interview process informed

consent is among one of the key points of ethical consideration (Kvale & Brinkmann 2009). To

ensure informed consent, a consent form (Appendix 1) was developed and provided to all

participant, as well as the opportunity to ask questions about the study. All the participants were

informed that they were able to withdraw at any point of the study without explanation. It was

deemed appropriate to anonymise the involved participants, and codes were used to replace

participants names in the case study. To further respect the ethical principles of the study, the

participants were made aware of the anonymity of the findings, had the possibility to review

the study and deliver feedback to confirm transcribed data. The interviews were recorded with

permission by the respondents both in writing and verbally prior to the interview, and the

respondents were informed that the recording would be deleted once the transcripts had been

approved by the respondents.

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5 Findings

This chapter will present the main findings that have emerged from the qualitative coding of

the case study, that investigates the phenomenon of ED using DT as the theoretical lens. The

findings of the conducted interviews and secondary documents are presented and explained.

Table 8-10 provides the final overview of the identified themes and subthemes. The findings

have been divided to match the research questions and are therefore divided into challenges

and enablers for ED and integration of ED.

5.1 Challenges

In order to integrate ED in products from a brand perspective and thereby ensure prolonged

product attachment to facilitate longevity. It’s necessary to understand the challenges that come

with the phenomenon which can act as a hinderance. The challenges that emerged from the

semi-structured interviews and supporting documents, can be found in Table 8, where they have

been divided into overall challenges and the reasons, a glossary for the sub-themes can further

be found in Appendix 3.

5.1.1 Current Fashion Cycle

In the investigation of challenges for ED the current fashion cycle became a strong focus point

during the semi-structured interviews. Where the continuous influx of new was discussed, the

lack of time due to the fast pace as well as the economic dependency on selling products. The

participant shared insight on the fast fashion model being the dominating model, where high

volumes of product are sold at low prices to generate a profit. This linear model was discussed

as an unsustainable way of doing business in relation to social and environmental issues. P4

voiced an opinion “also the fashion industry, it has a certain system, and it hasn’t been renewed

in a long time” [1], stating that there is a need for renewal and a radical change in the business.

The throwaway culture was mentioned in the supporting documents, focusing on understanding

the consequences of this business model to spark new innovation and ways to radically change

the industry. Where ED can be regarded as a mediator strategy to extend product life spans.

Delving deeper into the challenges, it became apparent that the constant influx of new acts as

an obstacle to ED. The participants talked about the fashion industry being dictated by trends

and news, both in regard to product availability, but also in regard to continuous change of

interior in stores which was explained in article D6 “which is a common way for many brands

to signal renewal” [2]. The influx of new happens when new products that have a superior

function, performance or look, causing the current products to become outdated. P4 provided

insights from a designer perspective stating that “it’s specially supposed to be about newness

and new ideas” [3] supported by P3 explaining “you’re producing newness constantly” [4]. The

influx of new is dominated by fast paced trends, which can act as a hinderance to ED, as the

products can feel outdated quickly. However, the participants also voiced opinion that trends

can enable consumers to discover their personal style, giving the products the possibility to

outlive the trends, if the consumer develops a personal attachment with the product.

- 41 -

Further, the speed of the current system is another factor, which acts as a challenge to ED. To

be able to develop innovative and high-quality products and services iterative testing and

feedback is required. Being able to gather data and knowledge to understand the consumers is

key, to be able to define products that meet the needs of the consumers. Ensuring the quality of

the garment is also essential to make sure that garments don’t fail prematurely. P3 explained

that a lot of quality measures have been set in place to ensure good quality, however as the

fashion industry is very global it can be difficult to implement these measures across all

suppliers, which can result in products that are produced to fast. P4 explained:

Today when working with these kinds of big companies, it’s mass production, it’s lack

of time. The product doesn’t get enough love. There may not be enough wear- and

strength tests of the products.[5]

Having the time to do wear- and strength tests also enables the designers to gain understanding

of the garment’s potential lifetime, further it enables to establish Key Performance Indicators

(KPI) for the products, so that it can be measured continuously, and the results can help improve

the products. The participants shared that lack of time can cause limited testing, and since ED

is more difficult to measure, as it’s more subjective, less time may be dedicated to ED.

The semi-structured interviews shone light on the need for a change within the current

economy, to enable the success of ED, as the current system hugely relies upon material

resource throughput to generate profit. This calls for a transition in the society where services

should be favoured rather than new products. Fashion companies are in a situation where new

ways are needed, meaning that they shouldn’t be dependent on the fast pace of resource

throughput to be economically viable, otherwise ED and product life extension will never be

able to flourish, P4 explained:

We need new ways how we can produce fewer products but gain money. For example,

gaining money through mending products in store, so we can earn money in a different

way. [6]

5.1.2 Consumer Mindset

The consumer mindset acts as a challenge to ED, but according to the participants there’s hope

for optimism within the next generation, who are questioning the current fashion system and

demanding more sustainable solutions. However, with the current system consumers have

gotten accustomed to the constant influx of new products, where trends are dictating and

influencing an everchanging wardrobe. Furthermore, it was elaborated that, consumers have

forgotten the value of craftmanship such as tailors and shoemakers, P2 elaborated “I see so

many people who are walking with shoes that need to be resoled” [7]. The fast system has

changed the mindset of consumers, where products are replaced rather than being repaired or

mended.

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The semi-structured interviews highlighted that, consumers have lost the know-how on taking

care of garments, including having the knowledge which can ensure prolonged lifetimes.

Furthermore, the participants voiced that ED was a new phenomenon, which requires more

work in relation to nudging consumers in the direction of retaining their products for longer. P3

elaborated on the issues regarding lack in consumer know-how in care, which can cause

premature garment failure:

We’ve been pointing out the biggest areas, where we found the biggest customer

complaints. And then I put together with our production teams, care-instructions, on how

to take care of those garments [8].

The participants indicated that lack of knowledge has become a symptom of the fast fashion

system, where the norm is to buy new when things break, rather than repairing and mending.

It was further discovered that the pace of the T&C industry has made fashion items disposables,

this has been influenced a lot by the fashion system. P1 explained “[…]with other challenges

being the mindset, the mindset of not keeping things” [9]. Changing the mindset of consumers

requires, that they are rewarded for their actions, in the case company’s sustainability report

from 2018 D2 it was additionally stated that: “[…] we introduce sustainable solutions across

the lifecycle of the products that are both convenient and rewarding for customers” [10]. This

shows the need for prolonging life span needs to be convenient and rewarding for customers.

P4 stated:

It’s very hard for companies who are equal, with mass production, where the customers

know that if they buy garments from that company, that they won’t last long, causing

them to treat them differently” [11].

This explains the need for customers to think about products in a different way and engage with

the products to enable ED.

5.1.3 Individuality

People are individual and have individual style and taste, which means that fostering ED may

require different strategies to cater to individual consumers. Individual style can be achieved

through uniqueness, which can be difficult in a system where most products are mass-produced.

P2 elaborated on costumers being different sizes, emphasising on height and different body

shapes as well as having different preferences in style. This can act as a hinderance to ED as

this also creates subjectivity within the consumers

The participants voiced their concerns about stimulating product attachment with costumers

being individual and having different emotions P3 explained “One customer might think in one

way and another in another way, so emotional feeling can vary from person to person and that

can be a challenge” [12]. In the reviewed interview data, it emerged that costumers are

ultimately the ones who give the product meaning and thereby develops a level of attachment.

The participants also voiced their opinions that stimulating product attachment also can be

influenced by cultural and social factors, which can act as an obstacle for ED.

- 43 -

Table 8 – Challenges for ED

ED Challenges Reasons

Current fashion cycle Influx of new

Lack of time

Economic situation

Consumer mindset Lack of knowledge

Disposable mindset

Individuality Stimulating product attachment

5.2 Enablers

Ensuring sustainable business practices at fashion organisations require a range of skills and

competencies which needs to be considered. The semi-structured interviews provided insights

in enablers and approaches to ED. These enablers are important to create a foundation for ED.

The enablers and facilitators can be seen in Table 9

5.2.1 Physical durability

The notion that PD is a cornerstone in relation to developing ED became apparent when

examining the data of the case study, where PD quickly became an important enabler. The

participants all elaborated on the importance of PD in garments in relation to developing an

emotional attachment. P3 explained that garment failure is often the reason for customers

returning or discarding their products. Customer claims are translated into actions that can

refine product quality and limit future failure. The semi-structured interviews further elaborated

that longer lasting product can contribute to a shift in the fashion system, where the physical

properties ensures that products can stand the test of time. The participants all agreed that

addressing PD is inherent and a logical step to increasing longevity, where construction

methods, seam strength and materials can influence this. P1 elaborated “basically the first step

is physical durability, but that’s kind of taken for granted” [13]

Quality is an essential aspect within physical durability. The participants elaborated on the

importance of quality when introducing new products. Details from the semi-structured

interviews and supporting documents showed that by focusing on improved quality the

utilisation period with the consumer can be prolonged. The supporting documents elaborated

on refinement of products to ensure the best possible products, and how feedback from

customers has enabled for iterative processes to improve product to ensure the foundation for a

long lifetime. In the article D6 by the case-company on impact it was elaborated that: “we

always have to consider the quality and desirability of the products we’re making” [14]. All the

participants elaborated on the use of sustainable processes and having a goal of sourcing more

sustainable materials, but they emphasised that sustainable materials such a recycled polyester

doesn’t always ensure the same quality as virgin polyester, which is important to consider.

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Changing materials to more sustainable materials has required more focus and innovation to

secure the quality of sustainably sourced materials, to ensure that they meet the quality

standards. P3 explained:

We have to start with the base, which is materials, what materials are we choosing for the

collection, we’ve also recently published our new quality standards, so we are following

the same quality requirements for all premium products [15]

This is further corroborated in the 2020 sustainability report D9, where it’s elaborated that

“we are updating our groupwide quality and durability standards to connect them to our

circular design strategy” [16]. This shows that by combining durability and a circular

mindset the whole lifespan of a product is considered. The participants answer showed that

there was a big interest in circularity within the case company, which connects to physical

durability. Having physical durable garments enables for keeping them in use for longer

which is a base for the inner circular loops in circular economy. P1 explained “but if we take

the scope of keeping your garments and using it for a longer time, then that’s actually one of

the bases of circularity” [17]. Prolonging the lifespan through ensuring prolonged use can

include various elements including choosing more durable materials in the production phase

and creating a better understanding of the end use with the consumer. P3 elaborated on this

“even our production teams are looking into more the full chain of the end-to-end quality of

the product.” [18]

5.2.2 Fit

Fit was discussed as a main enabler for ED by all participants. The transcribed data showed that

fit was among one of the most frequent codes mentioned by the participants. P3 mentioned “fit

must be super perfect for me to love something otherwise I will not use it a lot” [19].

Furthermore, fit was mentioned as a frequent feedback from customers. When the brand was

founded co-creation methods were used to gain insight from potential customers on the core

products, P3 explained the feedback “and it was mostly about the fit. A lot of the feedback is

about the fit” [20]. P2 and P3 elaborated on fit, stating it as an essential aspect for product

attachment, as people will wear what looks good, and thereby have a potential to facilitate a

connection. This was further reiterated by P4, who stated that fit and functionality can be seen

as a key aspect in the design process in relation to establishing product attachment. In the news

article D7 on working on collections its further elaborated that “we put a lot of work into

perfecting the fit, feel and performance of our products” [21]. The theme of fit was reviewed,

and it was noted to be a big influence for building attachment. However, the participants voiced

their concern regarding fit due to individuality and varying sizes making it difficult cater to all

customers within the business model of mass production.

Within the enabler of fit, sizing, diversity & inclusion was discussed. Particularly P2 voiced an

opinion on the topic in relations to building a foundation for ED. Including sizing, diversity &

inclusions into products allows for customers to find products which fit. Including diversity and

inclusion in communication also allows for customers to reflect on different perspectives. P2

explained “Sizing and especially fit are not considered enough in fast fashion, I think. In the

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end, you're going to wear what looks good on you, and fit plays a big role in that” [22]. The

values that are discussed in the sustainability reports, D1, D2 & D9 also emphasis on inclusion

and diversity in product design to ensure prolonged lifetime with the consumer. P4 explained

that from a design focus fit is very important as you don’t want the costumers to be restricted

in the garment and not feel restricted by the fit, thus ensuring that sizing is inclusive to create

comfortable garments for all body-types.

Participants referred to fit in relation to creating garments which costumers would feel

comfortable and confident in and therefore continuously wear them and thereby establishing a

connection with them. In internal document on repairing and mending D10 it was stated that

“if you invest in pieces that make you feel comfortable and confident and good about yourself,

you’ll want to take care of them and use them for as long as possible” [23]. The participants

highlighted that continuous wear is important in relation to establishing emotional attachment

with garments as it enabled for building a narrative around the garment, P2 elaborated:

“the more you wear something, the more attached you get to it and the more special and

unique it will become for you. If it doesn’t fit in a way that feels right for you, you won’t

give it such use, and it probably won’t stay in your wardrobe” [24].

Alteration was discussed in addition to fit. It was revealed that alteration opportunities within

garments have the potential to ensure better and customised fit. This can act as a building block

for ED and build connection between user and consumer. Within the case company some

alteration opportunities were explored, including in the childrenswear department, where an

elastic with buttons was integrated into the childrenswear to continuously alter size as the child

grow, thus enabling for continuous evolvement through the child’s growth. Further it was

elaborated that the men’s suiting pants had extra fabric in the hem to allow for alteration in

length. The supporting documents provided information regarding pilot projects on in-store

alterations within the adjacent brands belonging to the larger group. This provided information

that testing had been initiated to get feedback to monitor and evaluate the benefits of alteration.

P1 stated that alteration can be influenced in the design stage “I would say in the design, it can

be in other features of design such as the fact that it can be altered” [25]. The participants

however also highlighted that the current fast fashion system doesn’t always cater for alteration,

as it’s often cheaper to replace the garment with a new one.

5.2.3 Communication

Communication was a highlighted topic as an enabler for ED. The participants highlighted that

longevity and ED is not only conveyed through design processes but also supported by

underlying communication channels, such as the website, newsletters and social media. P4

accentuated that, consumers are demanding more information, where a lot of purchasing

decisions are made based on the information available. The information allows for consumers

to make informed choices according to the case company’s 2020 sustainability report D9. P1

highlighted “we had a lot of communication about each product and very much about its

history” [26]. Opening communication tools between consumers and brands also allows for

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continuous feedback to further monitor and evaluate products. P3 explained that surveys with

potential consumers were done prior to creating the brand to get understanding of their needs,

which enabled to contextualise and plan future activities. The participants agreed that enabling

ED could be facilitated through communication to build narratives together with the consumer.

During the semi-structured interviews, it became clear that communication for consumer

education was an important facilitator. The participants highlighted that educating consumers

on the products, gave potential for ED, both in sharing information about the products and

materials but also how to take care of the garments to ensure the best conditions for a long life.

P3 explained:

We have also had a lot of focus on care guides that go beyond care labels, to try and

inspire and help our customers to prolong the life of their garments by taking care of them

in the best way [27]

P3 further explained “So I think talking about it, and teaching the customer is super important

and needed” [28]. Sharing knowledge and information helps create a greater collective

knowledge. While sharing information is further connected with being honest which can help

generate trust between consumer and brand. In the case company’s 2020 sustainability report

D9 it’s explained that inspiring simple behavioural changes can reduce the environmental

impact, as well as increase the lifespan with consumer. This is further corroborated in the case

company’s 2019 sustainability report D1, where it was additionally stated that “Empowering

our customers to care for and use the products in a sustainable way” [29]. When consumer

connects with garments through care and maintenance, the consumers get empowered which

enables attachment. Further educating and promoting repairability can build trust and ensure a

good brand reputation. In the company’s internal documents D10 on education on repair, it is

further stated that “It may seem like an absurd idea that us individuals would help save the

planet by repairing our clothes, but I see it as a very hands-on way of dealing with climate

anxiety” [30].

It was further discovered that storytelling can act as a facilitator as it creates room for building

product narratives. In the reviewed documents it became apparent that the emphasis on time

and skilled craftmanship invested in the design and communication processes was highlighted

as a way to elevate value of the products and ensuring meaning with consumers. P4 also

mentioned limited editions has potential to be highlighted through storytelling, which reinforce

the feeling that an item cannot be replaced easily, which can help foster ED. Objects which

include experiences can carry stories and memories which can facilitate ED. P4 explained “a

lot of them are linked with memories and storytelling as well, by creating a world around the

products” [31].

Within communication lies transparency, which is one of the building blocks within the selected

case-company, where transparency has provided consumers with knowledge on sustainable

processes, crafts and time that goes into production as well as details on suppliers including

factory names. P1 provided insight on the efforts of transparency and explained that “it could

be the history of the product, how it’s made, giving as much information about our products as

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possible to kind of create this base for transparency” [32]. Thus, ensuring that customers can

make informed choices while connecting them to the story behind the products, which enables

the customer to align their values and shop more sustainably. Transparency further enables the

customer to feel empowered to facilitate product narratives and increase ED. Additionally

transparency was explained as a facilitator to drive change within the industry as it pushes

brands to focus on more sustainable initiatives and gain control of supply chains, moving away

from business as usual. Transparency offers the case company tools to provide their customers

with knowledge regarding the brand and products. This can further align them with their

sustainability standards, which is key to building long-term trust and thereby ensure future

success. In the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report D9 it was additionally stated that:

Transparency helps our customers understand the story behind our business and

products, helps us build relationships based on trust and accountability, and pushes us to

do better [33].

5.2.4 Approaches to ED

Several strategies to help facilitate ED was introduced in the literature review, but also became

apparent in the case study, as approaches to enable ED. The supporting documents elaborate on

ways to focus on prolonging life of product, but there is a need to accelerate the speed to

encourage faster change. As well as developing an open mindset that can explore new paths

and ideas through experimentation and testing. Looking into different approaches that can

satisfy customer needs, while bringing new experiences can give brands a better opportunity

for establishing bonds. The participants elaborated on approaches to empathise with costumers,

to explore perspectives, to gather knowledge, to ideate new methods and introduce ED. A

human-centred approach is necessary to enable ED, and this is elaborated on in the case

company’s 2019 sustainability report D1 “We’ll achieve this by placing our customers in the

centre and integrating sustainability into everything we do” [34].

Integrating services into their portfolio was actively discussed in the interviews. Services can

enable customers to modify, alter & redesign their products to make it possible to extend the

product life span. Customisation was discussed as potential service where P1 explained

“anything customised with initials or something like that, is an enabler for ED” [35].

Customisation allows for stimulating a sense of uniqueness which is a promising route for

deeper consumer satisfaction, while it allows for more feedback and better understanding of the

consumers through co-creation. In the case company’s 2020 sustainability report D9

experiences and services were further elaborated on through “we’re investing in experiences

and services to engage with customers in new ways and we invite them to be part of a circular

fashion system” [36]. Repair and rental systems were also mentioned, where repair offers

solutions to prolonging the life span, however the participants also mentioned the concern with

repair in relation to whether it would be economically viable for consumers rather than just

buying new pieces. In turn, services can help promote and normalise long-term use and thereby

substitute products with services. Thinking about services can postpone psychological

obsolescence, which gives the brands options to engage more with their costumers, while the

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customers can engage with an evolving product. In the case-company’s 2019 sustainability

report D1, it was additionally stated that “we must completely shift out product development

mindset and build products and services in new ways” [37].

Throughout the semi-structured interviews functionality was an emerging facilitator, that was

discussed in depth by all participants and in the supporting documents, as an approach to ensure

that product stay meaningful to the costumers. In the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet

D3, it’s further described “for our designs to be sustainable, we know we need to develop

products that will continue to be useful and meaningful for many years” [38]. Both P1 and P3

explained that having products that had several functions such as a jacket with a detachable

inner lining provided multiple use across several seasons. This can ensure that the product is

used more and thereby opens up for a narrative between the consumer and the products. P3

described that “It’s a lot about function and that the garments should last for a long time. It’s

something we’ve had in the DNA since the start” [39]. Elaborating on garments which has many

functions enables customers to change them and vary how they’re worn and thereby have

multifunctional purposes for increased wear. P4 elaborated that functionality was becoming

the focus point in the design phase, prior aesthetics had been the core focus, but thinking about

functionality within a product allows for a certain meaning to be given to a product. Having

multifunctional products also allows for consumers to limit their consumption and focus on few

versatile products.

Integrating approaches that focus on products which age gracefully and stand the test of time,

became an important conversation topic in the semi-structured interviews. Supporting evidence

also emerged from an article about impact on the case-companies website D5, where it was

explained:

If the garment isn’t beautiful enough or if it wears out quickly, then sustainable materials

and practices will not change anything. It needs to be something that our customers will

use and cherish for many years, otherwise it’s never going to be sustainable in the long

run. [40]

The internal documents further support this, where in the repair and mending document D10, it

additionally stated “you’ll also notice that clothes made from genuine materials actually get

better with time, not worse. They’re worth keeping on to, and you’ll eventually establish a bond

to them” [41]. The participants shared stories on developing products, which age together with

the consumer, such leather bags. These signs of wear also enable the costumer to develop a

narrative of the certain product. Denim was discussed as a good example for ageing with beauty

as most people have their favourite pair of denim which has evolved over time, getting natural

customisation through wear. P2 elaborated on that “I think that customization comes

naturally. When you wear something a lot, it becomes a part of you, like a signature thing that

you wear, and that you wear your way” [42]. Signs of wear should be celebrated, and the case-

company has emphasized this in their communication especially with leather, denim and linen

products, that are materials that become better with time through signs of wear, which makes

them special and unique.

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Table 9 – Enablers for ED

ED Enablers Facilitators

Physical durability Quality

Circular mindset

Fit Sizing, Diversity & inclusion

Continuous wear

Alteration

Communication Consumer education

Story telling

Transparency

Approaches Product service systems

Functionality

Gracefully Ageing

5.3 Integration

The integration of ED within a fashion company requires innovative thinking and taking on a

new approach, to disrupt the current fashion system, and thereby move into a new direction

and create a change in the industry. The participants highlighted different phases of DT to

elaborate on new innovative ideas that can help integrate ED into the design of the products.

The coding of the semi-structured interviews and supporting documents provided integrators

and tools for integration, which can be found in

Table 10.

5.3.1 Creating a change

The participants agreed that a change is needed in the current system to facilitate ED and

thereby ensure that product lifetimes are extended. P3 engaged in the discussion of the urgency

of change by elaborating on implementing sustainable KPI’s for the brand and the suppliers to

drive change which can implement more sustainable practice:

The time is running out; we need to make a change. I mean, we have to do them quick.

And I think this is a good way of driving the sector as well. And the ones that will be

there with us in the future will be sustainable and will follow our sustainable KPIs [43]

When discussing actions for change the participants elaborated on building knowledge between

stakeholders, to create a common goal. This can establish room for innovation and new ways

of thinking to redefine the needs of customers to understand how ED can be integrated. P1

explained “and also looking at change, and what is needed to make change and understanding

opportunities and threats”. [44]

Ideation allows teams to enable creative thinking, where team-based brainstorming often is used

as an ideation technique, as it allows for quick cycles of idea generation. Breaking DT processes

into manageable tasks focusing on empathising, which can be done through exploring a range

of perspectives and engaging in cross-disciplinary exchanges. Ideation can contribute to gaining

perspectives for change. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2, this aspect is

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elaborated on “Sharing our processes, plans and performance to identify joint challenges and

synergies with our peers, and accelerate more sustainable practices” [45]. A shared opinion

included that ideation across teams allowed for sharing information, and thereby allow for a

better understanding of problems, to provide opportunity for development of new ideas that can

push sustainable development. P4 explained “because you get to share information which is,

the most, the best way of gaining new knowledge”. [46]

Integrating ED can be facilitated through building knowledge. The interviews shone light on

building a common knowledge pool, where knowledge is shared across stakeholders. This

allows for people within the company to act on acquired knowledge and there by leverage their

entrepreneurial mindset. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2 its highlighted

that:

Our colleagues bring a diversity of knowledge that contributes to innovation and inclusive

products” and “with the goal of sharing knowledge on circularity, so we develop products

that can recirculate multiple times” [47]

Gathering and building knowledge is an important aspect in DT as it helps define the task at

hand. The participants agreed that sharing knowledge between departments helped build a

broader knowledge pool, which can be of high value when working with complex and abstract

issues such as integration of ED. P3 highlighted that “it's very good to be a part of this and to

share the knowledge that we have, because it's also helping everyone to move forward in what

we have to do within this area” [48].

Utilising DT processes within an organisation can offer several benefits, which can encourage

innovation and growth, which the participants highlighted in the interviews. The participants

mentioned entrepreneurial spirit as an important factor to ensure innovation within the T&C

industry. P4 emphasised that innovation is necessary to create change “I think we’re stuck in

an old system, where it hasn’t been renewed in a long time” [49]. P1 stated that innovation that

facilitates change requires exploration of different perspectives, where different expertise is

necessary to ensure that the new innovations can be tested to successfully create a change. The

supporting documents elaborated a lot on different innovations that have helped create a change

within the industry, the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report emphasises on new ways to

create change, and it was additionally stated “defining new ways to design our offering with

use, reuse and recyclability as the central focus” [50]. This focuses on new business models and

ventures, that explore products and services that can be utilised to increase use through ED and

thereby ensure longevity.

5.3.2 Collaboration and co-creation

The participants of the semi-structured interviews thoroughly described and explained how

collaborative efforts were used to challenge systems and develop new ideas. As well as

generating new knowledge that can facilitate new processes and practices that can overcome

some of the hurdles that the T&C industry is facing. Collaboration enables to explore different

perspectives, where the participants emphasised the benefit of collaborating across different

departments and with different stakeholders, to challenge silo-thinking and explore new

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innovative ideas to ensure sustainable development. P2 elaborated on collaboration stating

that “it’s a very enriching process, for everyone. You learn a lot from each other and it’s

humbling” [51], which is corroborated by P1 in the following statement:

I would say collaboration is a very big thing. That has always been kind of a part of the

values of the company, to work as teams and be entrepreneurial in the spirit of trying to

find solutions [52]

Collaboration and co-creation are discussed by the participants as tools to better understand

consumers and their demands and thereby having a better change of introducing products that

facilitate attachment through ED. Further, the participants mentioned co-creation as a way to

interact and establish a bond with the consumer, which can enable trust and loyalty, as well as

enable feedback and act as a communication tool between brand and consumer. Collaboration

can further facilitate the change that is needed within the industry. This is further explained in

the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report D9, where it additionally stated “we amplify our

positive impact by working with others – showing potential for innovation and dialogue to

speed transformation” [53].

All participants elaborated on feedback loops and the importance of getting feedback both

between departments but also from costumers, to help define new areas for development as well

as testing and ensuring the quality of developed products, P1 explained “all the time getting

customer feedback on the quality of our products, and continuously sharing that with our

production teams in order to solve the problems” [54]. P4 also brought it up “feedback can be

used as a broader tool, and we can make more use of it” [55], P3 stated that "So there are

different requirements depending on how you will use the product as a customer. And these are

also built from following up on customer complaints” [56]. The collaborative work is also

mentioned in the supporting secondary data, including the case-company’s 2020 sustainability

report D9 where it’s mentioned that “creating a positive feedback loop to empower constant

improvement” [57]. In D8 the co-creation between the buying department and the suppliers is

elaborated on, where a collaborative process is explained to facilitate better products with

longer lifetime. Collaborative efforts where feedback is continuously shared allows for

knowledge creation between participants. P3 elaborated further on this stating that there is a

need to be on the forefront in using feedback from customers to secure quality of the products

and further act as key to understand potential occurring problems.

The participants mentioned brainstorm workshops between design and the production team as

a way to figure out new ways of working, which helps explore different perspective and as a

tool for problem solving, which is the aim of DT. Brainstorming is mentioned in the supporting

document D5 as a tool that build stronger relationships between designers and suppliers to

understand complex problems and thereby “make specific demands and drive the sustainable

development forward” [58]. Brainstorming can according to P4 help establish innovative ways

of working which can initiate pilot projects that can be tested prior to being integrated at full

scale. This is elaborated on in the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, where it’s further

stated:

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It also gives us the opportunity to innovate and pilot new ideas in a limited format before

launching them on a wider scale: from circular material projects to design collaborations

[59]

Collaborative brainstorming is according to the participants a welcoming tool to use in the

ideation process which was explained in section 5.3.1, as well as a creativity tool for concept

generation and prototyping, which can help define and clarify the purpose.

Collaboration and co-creation help in developing an iterative process where products can be

refined and finetuned to match the demands of consumers according to the participants and

supporting documents. In in the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, it’s additionally

stated “we continually work to develop and improve our production while collaborating with a

range of stakeholders to push for improvement” [60] and in an article on the work that goes into

the collection D7 it’s further explained “with every new collection, we make small tweaks to

the details to improve quality and sustainability of the garments” [61] and further highlighted

in an article on the case-company’s website D6, it’s stated “when we make changes, they are

small refinements of the original idea” [62]. This is further elaborated on by the participants as

continuous monitoring and evaluating products enables for further exploration and ideation to

refine products and impact product lifetime. Engaging with iterative cycles with consumers

through co-creation opens for opportunities to create products which meet customer demands

while fulfilling other stakeholder’s expectation in value creation.

5.3.3 Role of the designer

The interviews provided insight in the role of the designer, and they all provided information

that the biggest potential to integrate ED into product, was in the design phase. It was

highlighted by P1 “I would say in the design phase, thinking really about how the garment is

going to be used for a long time” [63]. In the secondary documents the design departments are

elaborated on where it’s discussed that they have opportunity to influence things in a positive

direction, while active and deliberate choices within the design process can make innovative

changes. According to P4 designers have the ability to use their innovative and creative

processes that stem from design theory to design for durable products which can be kept in the

consumers wardrobe for a prolonged time.

Problem solving is a big part of a designer’s work, where problem solving can take place

through dialogue and brainstorming, which can help develop empathy and understanding.

This can successively create a change, which was highlighted by P4. Design starts as a problem-

solving process, where a lot is initiated by brain storming. Further, insights elaborated that

several styles were often refined every season through customer feedback, where the focus lies

in solving problems that the customers have encountered. P4 highlighted that there is a need to

focus on problem solving as a designer:

I think it [the design role] must take on the role more as a problem solver, rather than just

the designer […] And think of a product more holistically both how it's produced, but

also the afterlife. And a lot of focus on the functionality [64]

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Problem solving tasks are not specific to any DT phase but it’s a process which happens across

all phases to develop innovative solutions. Being a problem solver is also mentioned on the

case-company’s website, where the article on the work that goes into making the collection D7

highlights the task of being a problem solver as “working my way backwards from the answer

to find the right questions to the problem” [65] this further highlights the design process and

working as an iterative problem solver.

Design has the potential to be the starting point for integration of ED, where the participants all

highlighted the designer’s role as an important facilitator for ED. Designers have the

competencies and power to ensure aspects such as physical durability, which can guarantee that

the garments have the preconditions for a long lifetime. In D9 the role of the designer is

highlighted were training in materials is discussed as a way to ensure longevity and opportunity

for reuse. Further it’s explained that designers have the competencies to iteratively create

products using innovative technology such as 3D, which minimises error and garment failure,

which can have an impact on ED. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2 design

is explained as “the first opportunity to bring circular aspects into our value chain. Incorporating

circular thinking early paves the way for later stages to follow suit.” [65] P1 elaborates that the

design can ensure, that the products have characteristics that can ensure longevity and product

attachment, including designing products that have alteration possibilities or multifunctional

characteristics. This is further corroborated by P2 “it's very considered in the design

perspective” [66]

The participants talked about designers having an innovative and open mindset that opens up

for creativity and new processes. Being open-minded is essential to ensure that no opportunities

are missed. This was highlighted by the participants and further discussed in the case-

company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, where it was stated that “In our experience, it can often

be eye-opening to reconsider the choices we make in everyday life” [67]. The data highlighted

that having an innovative mindset can foster radical collaboration, which can enable insights

and knowledge to be shared across the organisation while being able to test ideas to clarify

underlying assumptions. P4 shared information on having an innovative mindset, which opens

up for new ideas:

It's also means taking care of our waste and stock, in a creative way, how we can create

new products from maybe our waste. And the garments we already have in stores that

maybe aren’t selling, how can we create new products out of these and thereby prolong

lifespan [68]

Thus, having a mindset which consider traditional design processes, but also opens up for

engaging in ideas which turns designing on its head to try and create a change that facilitates

longevity within products.

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Table 10 – Integration of ED

Integrators Tools

Creating a change Ideation

Knowledge creation

Innovation

Collaboration & Co-creation Feedback loops

Brainstorm

Iterative process

Role of the designer Problem solver

Design as a starting point

Innovative mindset

5.4 Conceptual Framework for Emotional Durability

Figure 4 – Framework for emotional durability developed by author

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The empirical findings provided different aspects for the integration of ED within a T&C

Company. A conceptual framework (Figure 4) was established to provide, and overview and

enhance the understanding of the complexity within ED. The framework was developed

through an investigation of the findings and linking the results with the aim of the thesis, giving

an overview which support the understanding of the ED from a brand perspective. Emotional

durability is situated at the centre of the framework, with attributes, services and integrators

surrounding it. The second circle shows the attributes that were found to be needed when

developing products that encourage ED, these include: functionality, physical durability, fit and

communication. These attributes help create the foundation for long-lasting products to can be

cherished by consumer for many years. The third circle shows the product service systems that

can be set in place by fashion brands to support ED and ensure that the products can evolve

together with the consumers. Services further allow for brands to establish new routes for

economic income, to overcome the challenges within the current system. The services include

upgradeability, modular design, alteration, repair, customisation and personalisation. These

services can help support the attributes, for example alteration can help ensure better fit,

personalisation can support communication, where building a narrative around the product is

of importance. The fourth circle highlights the integrators for emotional durability which

emphasises some of the core processes of design thinking, these processes can be utilised to

integrate emotional durability into product development at fashion brands. The overall

integrators include collaboration & co-creation, creating a change & the role of the designer.

ED is a complex area, and can be difficult to grasp, which is why the integrators are essential,

to be able to understand the importance of collaboration, both within departments but also

integrating the costumers, to take on a human-centred approach, to enable for knowledge

creation and thereby ensure products that fit the costumers need. The framework consists of

powerful individual elements that can be used as sources for inspiration for integration of ED, but

it can also be explored as hybrids in varied combinations. The framework can be used to introduce

different aspects of ED and give companies the tools to engage with the topic and make it more

tangible to create a systemic change in the industry where product attachment through emotional

connection is desired to ensure longevity.

5.5 Summary of Key Findings

In this chapter the major findings regarding the challenges, enablers and integration of ED

were elaborated on, where DT was highlighted as a tool that could ensure integration of ED.

It was demonstrated that the challenges for ED were:

o The current state of the fashion industry, has created a system where the influx of new

dominates, leading to quick turnaround in clothing and a lack of product attachment

o Lack in knowledge from the consumers, create an obstacle for ED, as many consumers

are unaware of how to maintain and care for product to ensure a prolonged lifetime

o Individuality acts as a hinderance to ED, as it can be difficult to stimulate product

attachment within consumers who have different emotional perceptions.

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In addition, it was found that the enablers included:

o Communication was emphasised as a tool to ensure ED. The research found that this

includes communicative consumer education, as well as using transparency and

storytelling to facilitate emotional narratives.

o Several approaches similar to strategies found in the literature were found to be

beneficial in relation to ensure evolvement of products, these include:

o Personalisation & customisation

o Functionality through modular and flexible design

o Alteration which ensures fit

o Product service systems

o Gracefully ageing

o PD was found to be a foundational level for ED to guarantee the quality of a garment

thus enabling long product life

Finally, the integration of ED could be facilitated through:

o ED can be integrated through design processes that have been developed through DT

o The design stage has the most potential in influencing ED with support from

communication tools

o Collaboration and co-creation are important tools to ensure knowledge sharing and

development of new ideas

o Feedback loops and iteration can establish a better understanding of the consumer needs

and thereby innovate and test new ideas to integrate strategies and services for ED

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6 Discussion

In this chapter the result of the findings will be discussed. The fulfilment of the of the research

is discussed in consideration of the purpose, aim, objectives and the research questions. The

discussion aims at connecting and generating a dialogue between the findings and the theory

reviewed from the relevant literature.

The study identified several aspects related to ED that may be important in relation to ensuring

longevity within the fashion industry. The participants in the study showed a range of

perspectives. Some similarities were explored, however there were also some differences,

which could be linked to the participants working in different departments and therefore have

varied knowledge bases and different competencies. The literature provided a grounded

understanding in the concept of ED in relation to longevity, where the case-study provided

additional information in relation to how it can be approached from a brand perspective, while

keeping the consumer in mind, to allow for the integration of ED at a brand level. The existing

literature shone light on both enablers and challenges including the current fashion system not

catering for concepts such as ED, this was supported by the case-study. However, the case-

company also emphasized that the next generation, will have a lot of impact in relation to

speeding up a change, as they won’t accept the current system forcing companies to change

business models.

The aim of this thesis was to review the emerging phenomenon of ED within the T&C industry

and its integration possibilities. To contribute to the understanding of product life extension to

support a more circular industry. The case-study allowed for an exploration of challenges and

enablers linked to a brand in relation to ED, which will be discussed in the next section with

supporting evidence from literature.

6.1 Challenges for Emotional Durability

The discussion throughout this section connects the findings in chapter five together with the

relevant literature and theory reviewed, with the aim to provide an analytical exploration of

the challenges for ED to address RQ1

6.1.1 Stuck in an stagnate system

From the literature and the case-study, it was deduced that one of the overarching challenges to

ED is linked with the current fashion system, which is acting as a hindrance to facilitate product

attachment. In the literature it is highlighted by several scholars that product obsolescence stand

in the way of ED (London 1932; Packard 1964), especially planned obsolescence which was

introduced to ensure economic growth and prevent stagnation in demand. This links to concerns

that was voiced by the participants from the interviews [1,5,6], stating that the current system

is built on selling a large number of products at an increasingly fast pace, which can have an

impact on the quality of the products that are produced, both from a style and durability

perspective. The current ways of designing and manufacturing T&C doesn’t necessarily take

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consumers needs and demands into account but is rather defined by speed and economic gains.

There is the potential that ED will lead to a reduction in sales, which means that organisations

may be averse to implementing strategies that can facilitate ED, as it can impact their financial

viability (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). To change these patterns, it’s essential to find new ways

to engage consumers more deeply into the process of designing as well as to introduction of

new sustainable value creation, which could be through services, where product life can be

extended while companies ensure economic gain (Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013).

Both scholars within the literature and the participants of the empirical study indicated that

there is a need to move away from the stagnate and linear system, and instead introduce a

system, where there is a focus on more on durable products both from an emotional- and

physical perspective to ensure longevity (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; McNeill et al. 2020;

Mugge 2018; Norman 2004). The results from the findings provided a clearer understanding of

some of the challenges that the current system is facing including the speed of the system,

meaning that there’s less time to develop and design products, which may compromise the

quality of the garments [5]. This has been highlighted as a link to the throway culture, where

the result has been waste accumulation due to failed relationship between consumers cause by

garment failure (Chapman 2015, p. 61).

The results of the emperical findings build on existing evidence that there is a need for a radical

change within the industry. Where consumption behaviour needs to be altered to create room

for ED to ensure longevity within the T&C industry (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). The participants

voiced their opinions that brands could be stuck in silo-thinking and therefore not pushing the

boundaries for change to define new perspectives and ways of working [51].

6.1.2 Consumer Mindset

Deep product attachment, through emotional connection, has the potential to extend the lifespan

of a product (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). However, the findings from the case-study elaborated

on the fact that ED is dependent on collaboration and understanding from the consumer to

ensure the best possible conditions for products longevity [52]. The challenges that ED is facing

was elaborated on through the semi-structured interviews with the case-company, where it was

voiced that there is need for a deeper understanding on the connection between consumer and

product. EDD is a radically new approach to sustainable design and requires commitment both

from brands and consumers (Fletcher 2017). However, a current obstacle to ED was highlighted

in the case-study that there is a lack in knowledge on how to take care of garments[7,8], this

links to the previous section where the speed of the current system has caused products to

become disposables with the constant influx of new, where there is little incentive to repair or

deeply care for garments (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). The study provided information that

consumer mindset is acting as a hinderance to ED, where consumers are used to mass-

production and therefore accustomed to not keeping things as they have little expectation in

relation to quality [9,11]. This result ties well with previous studies wherein product quality

perception has been linked to challenges within longevity. From the results of the findings, it

became clear that consumer lack knowledge in care, maintenance and repair [7,8], which shows

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that traditional crafts such as bringing you products to a shoemaker or tailor is disappearing,

which according to previous studies have proven to be a way to promote product engagement

(Neto & Ferreira 2020). Brown (2008) highlights that the pool of knowledge within an

organisation can be utilised to grasp new opportunities and develop ideas that can help foster

knowledge building within the consumer, and thus allowing for better opportunity for ED.

6.1.3 Individuality

The current system works on the basis of mass production where trends dictate the market

(Ghim & Shin 2020). This can create a challenge for ED, as stimulating product attachment has

been found to be linked with uniqueness and self-expression (Chapman 2015). Previous studies

show that product failure is often linked to changes in consumer’s body size, as well as changes

in style and taste which can be influenced by trends (Cooper et al. 2013a). This is according to

the case-study findings a prominent reason for garment failure.

From the results of the findings, it’s clear that fostering ED can require the use of different

strategies, to fit accordingly with different types of consumers. However, there is also a need

for products evolving to capture the evolving needs of consumers. The reviewed data

highlighted that it’s the consumers who gives the product meaning through social and cultural

factors over time, and thereby develops a level of attachment [12]. This links to the theory

presented by Norman (2004) who states that the reflective level is required to give product

meaning and develop memories, where a sustained interaction is required. This shows that in a

system that is defined by speed and constant changes, a key obstacle lies within securing a

prolonged interaction with a product. Furthermore, studies have shown that it can be difficult

to study product attachment and that the establishment of an emotional connection can be very

subjective (Harper 2017). Several strategies can be applied, which have the potential to foster

the attachment, but ultimately it’s the user that gives meaning to the product and decides upon

the attachment level (Mugge 2018).

6.2 Enablers for Emotional Durability

The discussion throughout this section connects the findings in chapter five together with the

relevant literature and theory reviewed, with the aim to provide an analytical exploration of

the enablers for ED to address RQ1

6.2.1 Physical durability

The results demonstrated in the findings matched what was stated in the literature review, which

emphasise that PD is a cornerstone in ensuring a foundation for long product lifetime [13]

(Mugge 2018; van den Berge, Magnier & Mugge 2021). However previous studies have shown

that PD is not the only prerequisite for ED and more is needed to facilitate this (Chapman 2009;

Haug 2017). Previous research has highlighted that PD has been a preferred way for companies

to design for longevity (Connor-Crabb 2017; Cooper et al. 2013a; Cramer 2011). Garment

failure due to quality aspects was among one of the reasons for customer claims, which the

case-study revealed. Thereby, showing that products need to be able to withstand the test of

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time to be able to have the foundation for a long lifetime. The findings demonstrated that PD

which include materials, seams, construction and trims are inherent to increasing longevity [15].

One of the missions within the case-company is to raise the quality of everyday design, where

products are continuously refined every season through feedback loops between departments

and consumers. However, the findings also opened up for the fact that PD doesn’t guarantee

that an emotional bond will be established, which links to the presented state-of-art. This

highlights that physical characteristics of a product is not the single deciding factor, but one in

many when it comes to influencing the product’s lifetime. Further, in relation to PD it was

found in the study that the current fashion system has ingrained some expectations into the

consumers, which means that they might have predefined expectation of the lifetime of certain

products and once this expectation has been reached the product is discarded of [11], which

then can act as a hinderance to ED.

6.2.2 Communicative Tools for emotional durability

EDD entails that there is a relationship between design and user to create a more durable

approach to products (Chapman 2014). It thereby enables the users to keep interested in the

product and therefore not engage with purchasing new items (Cramer 2011). The case-study

provided insight in communication being an important tool to engage with consumers and

ensure that the products are used in a way which gives them the best premises for a long life

[26,27]. The existing literature supports this, and that it’s not enough to design products which

are beautifully designed with opportunity for modification or adaptation to maintain empathy

(Goworek et al. 2018; Nerurkar 2016). There is a need for communication to support these

strategies to ensure a continuous relationship is developed. The study highlighted that the design

process was the first opportunity to integrate strategies for ED, but these strategies needed

support through communication, including both aspects of transparency as well as guides for

maintaining and caring for the products [33].

One of the most important steps to tackle to ensure longevity is to tackle the culture of

disposability and create a world where longevity is a preferable attribute (Cooper et al. 2013a).

This aspect can be facilitated through fashion brands, as they are in a position to encourage

better consumption behaviour and nudge their customers in certain directions through

communication. The case-study findings provided an understanding that communication can

facilitate a change in consumer mindset while building a relationship between the brand and

consumer through storytelling [31]. Communication can thereby help build narrative, previous

studies have shown that continuous communication after point of sales can ensure that the

narrative of the product is extended through continuous story-telling and information sharing

about the product (Haeggblom & Budde 2021). Furthermore, it was found that by delivering

information about a product enables the user to gain insight in the work and craft that was

involved in production, which may facilitate a relationship. The case-company provided

information on transparency and information-sharing, to ensure consumer-awareness in the

work that goes into the production, as well as ensuring that the consumers are equipped with

knowledge in relation to care and maintenance, to avoid premature garment failure due to

wrongful care [27,29, 32]. However, the case-company emphasised that a lot of claims were

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still received, where wrong care had caused premature garment failure, which highlighted that

even more communication on care may be necessary to educate the consumers.

Products can convey information as well as work as storytellers, where users can establish

unique and personal stories, which can be encouraged through continuous communication from

brands, which over a prolonged time can from layers of significance through memories

(Chapman 2015). These memories are of importance to ensure long lifespan. As Norman (2004)

states these meanings are ingrained in the reflective level of design where personal satisfaction,

identity building, and memories happen.

6.2.3 Core strategies for emotional durability

Discussing potential scenarios for garment longevity through ED, it has been found that

strategies in combination can help build relationships between user and product with the support

of a human-centred approach [34]. Several approaches were elaborated on in the case-study,

which relates to strategies found in the existing literature. The strategies that were highlighted

included aging beautifully, functionality which encompass modular, flexible products and

customisation, as well as focusing on the fit through alteration. For instance, creating multi-

functional garments was elaborated on by the case-company [38], which can potentially deepen

attachment and ensure that the product remains relevant for longer (Niinimäki 2011)

It was found that aesthetics has been a large part of the design strategies within the fashion

industry, but there is a shift happening with more focus being put on functionality, which can

help ensure that the promise of experience and evolvement will be kept (Earley 2017; McNeill

et al. 2020). Chapman (2015) has voiced that waste is a result of failed relationships between

product and user, this can occur when user’s desires change and evolve but products stay

stagnate. It’s here that the concept of modular and flexible solutions can ensure continuous

functionality of the products, and thereby cater to the changing needs of the consumer. The

findings showed that developing products with the end user in mind, gives potential to design

products which can be modular, flexible and versatile [34]. The participants elaborated on

examples that the case company had engaged with, such as designing childrenswear that could

be altered according to the growth of the child, jacket with detachable linings which enabled

the customer with multiple purposes for the jacket. This shows that clothes need to offer an

opportunity for change and modification, which further allows for experience between product

and consumer (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)

In relation to modification another aspect which was highlighted in the study was fit [20,22],

where it was elaborated that fit was an important aspect to ensure product lifetime extension.

With fast fashion a lot of clothing is mass-produced, which means they aren’t altered to fit a

specific person but based on standard sizing. A common reason found in previous studies on

why functional garments end up in landfill is linked to fit (Earley 2017; Laitala & Klepp 2011;

WRAP 2015). With even more clothing not being in active use due to it needing to be altered

to fit (Cooper et al. 2016). When comparing results from previous studies with the findings it

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clearly shows that there is a lot of potential in using strategies which accommodate fit, to ensure

relationships between consumer and products [20, 21].

Revealing signs of the wearer through ageing beautifully, can create a narrative around a

garment (Harper 2017). According to the study there are several design choices in relation to

materials which can ensure that products age gracefully, which can establish an emotional bond.

The findings gave a clearer understanding of ageing with beauty, where communication was

discussed to be a supporting factor to the strategy [40]. This allowed to further educate the

consumer about materials such as linen, denim, wool and leather, which have certain qualities

that evolve over time. Exploring products which builds narrative through time and through

unique signs of wear can foster relationships. However, in line with Walker’s (2006) study, it

needs to be considered, that people have been accustomed to new and shiny, where a

readjustment in value in relations to the expectation of products aesthetics and their evolvement

over time. Ageing beautifully can be seen as a counterpart to the fast fashion system where

constant change is the favourable scenario, but by emphasising the signs of wear, consumers

have the opportunity to personally customise their products through wear, thus opening for the

possibility of prolonged life [42].

Modularity, alteration and repair can be initiated through product service systems, which also

allows for the consumer and brand to engage and provide feedback. One of the challenges to

ED was the economic viability of having longer lasting products, but by introducing services,

brands can make money on a product several times while developing a prolonged relationship

with the customer. Repair and alteration services can help extend the life of a garment (Goworek

et al. 2018; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018; Mugge 2018). Product service systems have the possibility

to offer new strategic market opportunities while establishing a stronger relationship with

customers that can facilitate ED (Baldassarre et al. 2020). The findings demonstrated that some

services had been introduced, however still at pilot level and therefore at an early level to

understand their full potential [36]. In line with previous studies repair was discussed both as a

service, but also as something the consumer could engage with themselves either through

workshops with the brand or through consumer education. Others have shown that actively

participating in the repair, can help develop a ritual or habit, which further acts as a facilitator

in creating an emotional bond (Neto & Ferreira 2020). Several “design for” strategies have been

found to support the development of services that can prolong the life time of products (Allwood

et al. 2015). Through services the inner loops of the circular economy system can be stimulated

through repair, modification, personalisation, which is something which was highlighted

through the study. Further, services can enable companies to collaborate and create a bond with

consumer, which can ensure that the demands and needs are met.

6.3 Integration of emotional durability

In this section the findings from chapter 5 will be discussed in relation to the relevant

literature, where the theory of DT will be emphasised in relation to provide an analytical

exploration of the integration of ED to facilitate longevity in the T&C industry and thereby

address RQ2

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The current fashion system is still very much operating in traditional ways, where a new

sustainable mindset is still waiting to emerge at large (Fletcher 2015a). The theoretical lens

provides processes that have the potential to strategically move towards a more sustainable

future (Brown 2008; IDEO nd). The study revealed a wide range of insights in how different

phases of DT can be used to test and create new concepts that ties together with the aspects of

ED. The study emphasised on flexibility, collaboration and diversity, together with a belief that

knowledge sharing, and creativity can help push boundaries to create a change that supports a

more circular industry [44,45,49]. Furthermore, DT’s core intent is to solve problems through

gaining a deeper understanding of human needs, through building empathy through

observations and feedback (Bjögvinsson et al. 2012). This was found to be already set in place

to address sustainability issues within the case-company. Where continuous feedback from

customer claims, surveys and pilot projects allowed for understanding consumers and their

needs [53].

There’s a lot of potential in relation to integrating ED from a brand perspective through DT.

DT seeks to employ an open mind, as well as to channel creativity for a specific cause to solve

problems, through engaging with different phases that can be implemented both at

organisational level or departmental level (Brown 2008). The challenges that the industry is

currently facing requires rapid changes on different levels. The findings showed that

implementing DT processes across organisations provides potential for facilitating change.

Thereby, becoming a leverage point for transformation and engagement towards an industry

where longevity and ED is favoured [59,62].

The DT process offers opportunity which can foster excitement and optimism. Through the five

stages in DT organisations have the possibility to develop innovational change. However, the

findings show that DT processes are encouraged to be conducted collaboratively to gain the

best result. Diversity is a crucial aspect, to facilitate knowledge sharing and eliminating silo-

thinking which can inhibit innovation [51,52]. The study provided information that the biggest

opportunity within the integration of ED is linked to the design process, where the senior

designer stated that designers should work as problem solvers, where a human-centred approach

should be taken to understand the needs of the consumer. This is corroborated by findings in

the literature review and links with the theoretical lens. Scholars have argued that designers

within fashion organisations are well suited to apply and encourage new sustainable business

models and innovative ways of working, as they have the capabilities to connect human needs

and desired with new opportunities and innovation from business, science and technology

(Baldassarre et al. 2020; Casais et al. 2015; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). In line with the previous

studies the findings provided insight that design can be used as a starting point for the

integration of ED through creative and innovative processes where the user’s needs and

emotions are considered.

Integrating ED through strategies and processes require collaboration and co-creation across

the organisations, with stakeholders and consumers and can’t rely solely on the designers within

the organisation. When collaboration expands across a range of people within different fields

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more perspectives are brought forward, which enables to gain deeper as well as broader

perspective. This multidisciplinary approach allows for several processes including developing

empathy, prototyping, synthesising, communicating and evaluating (Valentine et al. 2017),

where collaboration can act as a progressor for change. By comparing the results from the

findings with previous studies, it was possible to deduce that DT is an important aspect for ED

as DT takes a human-centred approach, where understanding the end-user is essential to create

new innovations [64,65]. Further ED is a phenomenon which builds on human emotion, thus

it’s essential to understand how to cater to these emotions [63].

Within collaboration and co-creation feedback loops was found to be of high importance in the

case-study, to continuously gain insight from the end consumer, but also get feedback from

stakeholders and employees, to see potential refinements. The case-company provided

information regarding pilot-projects [59], which was also highlighted in DT literature, as a tool

to understand new strategies and innovations and potential development and iterations prior to

launching them full scale (IDEO nd). Testing allows for knowledge building, which can be

shared to facilitate a change, the findings provided insight that sharing could be a sixth process

within DT. As the fashion industry requires a systemic change, which sharing across companies

can help foster. The findings provided an understanding in information sharing and the

importance within it, to create a broader change [48]. ED is important in relation to product

longevity and it’s therefore important to share knowledge on strategies and processes to ensure

its success.

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7 Conclusion

In the previous chapter the findings were discussed in relation to the research questions. This

chapter will finalise the thesis and will describe and justify the conclusions drawn from the

research.

ED has been an emerging topic of interest within the T&C industry as it allows for extended

product life and thereby helps overcome some of the consumption issues related to the industry

(Chapman 2015). It further provides opportunities to redesign the linear model into a circular

one. This thesis explored the phenomenon of ED through a singular case-study, to gain insight

on the phenomenon from a brand perspective.

A broad review of the literature highlighted the current global problems of linear consumerism

where the norm is early product replacement, further ED between products and users was

highlighted, and DT was underlined as the theoretical framework. The literature reviewed

revealed a range of opportunities that informed the research questions and the overall research

design of the study. Primarily, the research focus was directed at understanding the challenges

and enablers for ED to create an understanding of the integration of ED through the use of DT.

The processes within the five stages of DT by IDEO (nd) provided a useful lens to examine the

integration possibilities for ED, which was highlighted in the findings from the case company.

The research questions:

RQ1: What are the challenges and enablers for implementing ED within the T&C industry from

a brand perspective?

RQ2: How can companies within the T&C industry integrate ED to facilitate longevity?

were addressed through the analysis of the findings. The DT processes together with

interdisciplinary collaboration across department revealed the possibility for more innovation

to be developed to create a lasting change in the industry. It became apparent that PD has been

a focus within fashion organisation to facilitate longevity, but now more focus on ED is required

to ensure that products can get a longer life. It was acknowledged that the biggest potential

within ED from a brand perspective was within the design processes, but there is a need for

communication to support the decisions made at design level to collaboratively build

relationships between brands and consumers.

7.1 Theoretical implication

This thesis generates new understanding into a relatively unexplored research area: DT

processes in the context of integration of ED within the T&C industry. The literature on DT

showed that DT is a constructive approach towards problem-solving and innovation, however

there is scarce information on its use within fashion and textiles, and it could be advantageous

to utilise the theory to challenge the current system. This research showed that brands are

working with phases of DT, with a goal to try and solve complex issues, which longevity and

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ED can be seen as. The most influential result in the study shows that several phases within DT

can help ensure the integration of ED. Collaboration and co-creation are found to be of great

importance to build a foundation for ED. As it offers opportunity for knowledge sharing and

bringing in new perspectives to foster new innovations and new ways of thinking. Through

cross-disciplinary collaboration new insights can be developed which challenges the speed of

the current system and helps implement a more circular mindset, where longevity in products

is a desired asset. Through providing examples of how DT processes were implemented at a

fashion brand, this study contributes to the building of a better understanding of DT and its

potential in the integration of ED. However, the research also showed that perceptions of DT

vary a lot, which means that there needs to be a better consensus of what DT is and how it can

be used to solve problems.

There is a lot of focus on the T&C industry and trying to tackle some of the challenges within

the industry, where the disposability has become the norm, due to the linear business model

(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). This research contributes to adressing the importance of

the inner loops of the circular economy, which emphasis on the need for keeping products in

use for as long as possible. The thesis provides insight in how innovative thinking and continous

feedback loops can iteratively develop better products and services which can ensure continous

evolvement of products to follow the changing needs in consumers and thereby foster ED.

7.2 Practical Implications

The findings can serve as a support for fashion brands, who wish to develop products and

services with longevity in mind. The study provided valuable insights into strategies and

services which can be iterated and refined through cross-disciplinary collaboration across

departments and with stakeholders to secure the best possible success factor. This study has

offered novel knowledge on the phenomenon of ED from the viewpoint of brands. Previous

studies have focused consumer perspective, which is an additional important aspect when it

comes to ED, but this research establishes further knowledge on strategies and services for

integration. This can help shift consumer mindset and develop a better emotional bond between

products and people, and create an industry where longevity is desired, both from consumer

and brand perspective.

The need for strong collaborations and relationships are outlined, both within the organisations

but also with stakeholders. The findings emphasised that there is need for collaboration and

knowledge sharing across competitors to ensure that the needed change within the industry is

addressed, through use of opening up perspectives and defining strategies for an overall system

change. Continuous communication regarding challenges can enable for the development of

new innovations through DT, which can ensure ED and product retention and therefore

longevity. The study provides insights in how collaboration can help foster a sustainable

industry.

The following three points presents original research contributions

o Advanced knowledge on emotional durability from a brand perspective

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o A conceptual framework based on the main findings of the research, which can provide

design professionals and scholars with a tool to integrate emotional durability

o Evidence supporting the enablers and challenges for emotional durability in relation to

longevity

7.3 Limitations and Future Research

This study has some limitations which could be addressed in future research. The thesis is

limited as a result of the delimitations that were set in the initial stages of the research. The

collected data was limited to a small sample size, that was due to the methodological choices

made for this study.

Due to the pandemic, it was not possible to facilitate face to face interviews, which meant that

the case-study interviews were conducted using zoom and Microsoft teams, it can be easier to

build trust and show empathy through face-to-face interviews, which can be more challenging

in digital interviews. Further it was not possible to include field visits and observations of the

case-study company, which could’ve contributed to the richness of the data and enabled for

delving deeper into the DT processes and collaboration between the different departments.

This study provides a range of opportunities for further research, and by considering the

limitations above further research could include comparison of data from several organisations.

a larger sample, where multiple-case studies were studied could provide more versatile insights,

that can support the findings and further strengthen the generalisability.

Furthermore, longitudinal evaluations of designed products that are utilising the design

strategies and services discussed in the findings, much like the work of Mugge, Schifferstein

and Schoormans (2005), would provide greater insight in the potential of the strategies in

relation to fostering ED. Longitudinal studies can provide insight in potential pitfalls within the

strategies, these studies could be conducted within different product categories.

The study provided a range of challenges that the needs to be overcome, highlighting the need

for a change in the fashion system, where economical gains require some alterations. This

further opens up for future research in business model reconfiguration to ensure success for the

integration of ED.

In this study ED was researched within the field of clothing & textiles, in future studies the

findings could be applies to products outside of the T&C industry, to gain understanding in the

potential of ED within other fields.

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9 Appendix

9.1 Appendix 1

RESEARCH PROTOCOL, INTERVIEW GUIDE, and CODING PROTOCOL

I. RESEARCH PROTOCOL

1. Identify the research gap and confirm that emotional durability from a brand

perspective is a viable research area. And start identifying potential brands via public

information available

2. Sample a list of fashion brands who works with emotional durability, to get an

understanding in the brand that best represents emotional durability, and thereby

ensure that participants have the expertise and are knowledgeable on the topic within

the company. Create a list of potential departments within the brands that can be of

value to include in the study

3. Contact the sampled brand, include the research purpose, who is completing the

research so this is clear to all participants, provide the participants with more in-depth

information regarding the research project to ensure that the participants are familiar

and understanding in regard to the research topic

4. Address ethical issues in relation to data collection, by attaching consent form,

providing the participants with knowledge to the interview process. Even though the

research doesn’t intend to collect personal information.

5. Prior to the interview, upon confirmation of booking, provide the participant with the

consent form, as well as the interview guide, to enable the participant to study the

questions prior to the interview and prepare more in-depth answers. Further, a few

days prior to the interviews an email should be sent out reminding the participant

about the interview data, time as well as providing a zoom link.

6. Start the interview with obtaining the respondent’s consent to thereby tecord and

confirm confidentiality of any personal - or identifiable information. Confirm the role

of the respondents and ensure that the participant will be referred to in a general sense

in the quotes of the study.

7. The interviews with each participant should aim for approximately 45min via zoom or

a similar digital platform, depending on the preference of the participant, using the

interview guide, to lead the discussion and keep on track, to gain valuable insights for

the study. record the interview with the consent of the participant.

8. Immediately or soon after the interview should be transcribed by the author. The

transcription should be proofread, while listening to the transcription several times to

ensure accuracy of the transcription. To ensure confidentiality of the information

provided by the participants the names and other personal data should be anonymised

or removed. The transcript should be sent to the participants for review and approval

as soon as the transcription is done, to ensure that the answers are still fresh in the

participants’ mind.

9. As soon as the transcript has been approved by the respondents, the coding process

can be initiated. Reading through both transcripts and the secondary data preliminary

coding can be initiated. The coding protocol, interview guide and initial codes will

follow in the sections below.

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II. PARTICIPANT CONSENT FORM FOR THE INTERVIEWS

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III. EXTRACT OF LITERATURE REVIEW PROVIDED TO PARTICIPANTS

TO INFORM ABOUT THE PHENOMENON OF EMOTIONAL

DURABILITY AND LONGEVITY

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IV. INTERVIEW GUIDE

Emotional Durability from a brand perspective – Strategies and future implementation – a case

study

I. Intro

1. Explain the project and that the interview will be recorded and get verbal consent

Hi, thank you again for agreeing to participate in this study, your time is very much appreciated. I am going to

read a brief introduction now to ensure that plan for this study is understood by all participants. Today we will be

talking about emotional durability and it’s potential to facilitate longevity within the clothing and fashion industry.

The interview aims to get the perspective of a company and how emotional durability can be integrated within a

fashion company, this thesis investigates the challenges and enablers for emotional durability. Bear in mind that

there are no right or wrong answers, it’s your opinions and experiences that I’m interested in.

You can ask questions at any time and have the right to deny answering any of the questions, you also have the

right to stop the interview at any time and withdraw from the study. I will send you a transcript of the interview

afterwards, where you can give feedback or make correction in relation to factual correctness. Further your name

nor the name of the company will not be linked to any of the report’s findings for this study and the report will be

anonymised. The details regarding your identity will only be known to me and my supervisor for the project. Do

you have any questions prior to getting started?

II. About you

1. Position within the company?

2. How long have you been working within the company?

3. How important is product durability within the company?

III. Emotional durability

1. What do you believe are the enablers for emotional durability?

2. What are the challenges for implementing emotional durability?

a. How do you think these challenges can be overcome?

3. I’ve seen that longevity is mentioned in your sustainability fact sheet, with an emphasis on

prolonging the lifetime of garments and creating meaningful items – how is this

implemented within the company?

a. At what stage do you believe there’s the biggest potential to integrate emotional

durability to create prolonged relationship between user and product?

b. How is longevity communicated within the company?

c. How do you think making products that are made to last can be beneficial to your

company?

4. What changes do you think are necessary within the industry to increase the desire and

attitude towards emotional durability in relation to establishing longevity?

5. How important do you think emotional durability is for the fashion industry?

IV. DT & Collaboration

I would now like to move into another topic which relates to emotional durability and ways in which

companies can come up with new innovative ideas, which is related to DT and collaboration

1. According to your experience, what do you think is the best tool for problem solving?

a. How is it used to achieve sustainability within the company?

2. How is the company collaborating across departments?

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3. What are the advantages to cross-department/interdisciplinary collaborations?

4. What challenges have you experience when working on collaborative projects?

5. How important do you think it is to have an entrepreneurial mindset in the creative industry

and in interdisciplinarity?

6. Do you feel the role of fashion brands are changing to the extent that you’re becoming

communicators and educators?

7. How is consumer feedback integrated into the development of new products/projects?

8. Is co-creation considered within the company

a. If yes how so?

V. Closing of the interview

1. Given everything we have talked about today – is there anything else you would like to add or clarify

before we finish today?

2. That’s everything for today, thank you so much for participating. You have been really helpful. Do you

have any further questions before I stop recording?

V. RESEARCHER CODING PROTOCOL

1. Familiarising yourself with the data

Primary interview data

- Transcribe the data as soon as possible after the interview

- Listen to the audio recordings several times to ensure accuracy of the transcription

- Ensure confidentiality of participants by anonymising personal data

- Provide the transcription to the participant for review and approval

- Fill the interview data into the coding word document

- Write down notes with initial ideas in relation to codes

Secondary data

- Read through the internal documents provided by case company

- Reread the publicly available documents again

- Fill the data into the coding word document

- Write down potential notes and ideas that comes to mind

2. Generating and using initial and codes and emergent codes

- Initial codes are guided by existing knowledge regarding the topic and stems from

frameworks within the literature and selected theory

- Code the data both from primary- and secondary data

- Match relevant data and begin colour coding keywords

- Look through the intial findings of the coding, and move in iterative cycles

- If possible discuss the coding scheme with supervisors or peers to ensure the codes

to be correct

- Choose the best quotes and list them in a word fil to gather an overview

3. Searching for themes for the initial and emergent codes

- Themes are focused on fitting within the context of the research questions thus

being divided into challenges, enablers and integrators. Further themes and related

codes are derived from key concepts in the literature and framework within

chapter 3

- The themes should if possible be review by peers or the researchers supervisor to

ensure fit

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4. Reviewing the themes

- Check if the themes correspond data gathered

- Ensure that the themes fit within the context of the purpose of the study

5. Defining and naming the themes

- Continue working iteratively to refine the specifics within each theme

- Define themes through refinement of the overall picture of the analysed data

- Generate clear names for each themes, making them coherent and understandable

for people outside of the research topic

6. Producing the report

- Select vivid and captivating segments of the data and keep track of them in

designated excel file

- Complete the analysis through the use of supporting quotes to strengthen

- Produce a report out of the results of the best quotes

Example of collating code-keywords using colour to get an overview

Commented [MBJ265]: diversity Commented [MBJ275]: fit

Commented [MBJ266]: fit Commented [MBJ276]: personalisation

Commented [MBJ267]: sizing Commented [MBJ277]: customisation

Commented [MBJ268]: feeling Commented [MBJ278]: personalisation through wear

Commented [MBJ269]: open minded Commented [MBJ279]: ageing beautifully

Commented [MBJ270]: continous wear Commented [MBJ280]: tells story about the consumer

Commented [MBJ271]: attachment Commented [MBJ281]: fit

Commented [MBJ272]: fit Commented [MBJ282]: inclusivity

Commented [MBJ273]: storytelling Commented [MBJ283]: people are different

Commented [MBJ274]: emotional value Commented [MBJ284]: alteration

VI. EXISTING INITIAL CODES AND FRAMEWORKS FROM THE

LITERATURE

Key Challenges from the reviewed literature

- Current fashion system (Allwood et al. 2015; EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017;

Popescu 2018)

- Economic situation (Cooper et al. 2013a; Cotton et al. 2020; Remy et al. 2016)

- Lack of consumer knowledge (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)

- Planned obsolescence (Chapman 2015; London 1932; Neto & Ferreira 2020;

Packard 1964)

- Stimulating product attachment (Chapman 2015; Ghim & Shin 2020)

Key Enablers from the reviewed literature

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- Physical durability (Cooper 2010; Cooper et al. 2013b; Fletcher 2015b)

- Fit (Laitala & Boks 2012; McNeill & Snowdon 2021; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011;

Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)

- Transparency and traceability (Chapman 2015; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Norman

2004)

- Storytelling (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2015a)

- Building narrative (Chapman 2015; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018)

- Graceful ageing (Chapman 2015; Fletcher & Grose 2012; Harper 2017)

- Product Service systems

o Modular design (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2005; van Nes & Cramer

2005)

o Customisation (Cramer 2011; Haeggblom & Budde 2021; Laitala &

Klepp 2011; Mugge et al. 2009; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki & Hassi

2011; van den Berge et al. 2020)

o Personalisation Cramer 2011; Haeggblom & Budde 2021; Laitala &

Klepp 2011; Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein 2009; Neto & Ferreira

2020; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; van den Berge, Magnier & Mugge 2020)

o Repair & alteration (Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a; Fletcher

2017; Goworek et al. 2018; Mugge 2018; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)

Key Integrators from the reviewed literature

Design thinking theory (CentreforSustainableFashion 2021; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016; IDEO

nd)

- Problem solving

- Human centeredness

- Innovation

- Design as a starting point

- Brainstorm

- Iteration

- Feedback loops

- Knowledge sharing

- Collaboration

- Creativity

- Pilot testing

- Build partnerships

9.2 Appendix 2 – Glossary for sub-themes

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SUB-THEME SUB-THEME DESCRIPTION FROM

EMPERICAL FINDINGS

CHALLENGES

INFLUX OF NEW Associated with the fast fashion system, where there’s a continuous stream of

new things, which is facilitating over consumption

LACK OF TIME Associated with the time constraints many people within fashion companies are

put under to keep up with the fast pace of the industry

ECONOMIC SITUATION Associated with the system being set up and being dependant on selling

products to be economically viable

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE Connected to the lack of knowledge within consumers on how to care and repair

garments to ensure longevity

DISPOSABLE MINDSET Connected with consumer mindset, where disposable fashion has become the

norm

STIMULATING PRODUCT

ATTACHMENT

Associated with the aspect that it can be challenging to stimulate product

attachment

ENABLERS

QUALITY Product features that are associated with the quality leading to durability

CIRCULAR MINDSET Associated with including a circular mindset for products to ensure PD and a

good end of life solution

SIZING, DIVERSITY &

INCLUSION

Associated with the size of clothing to be inclusive to ensure that garment fit

the consumers well, and further associated with diversity to facilitate all shapes

and sizes

CONTINUOUS WEAR Connected with focusing on getting the fit right will ensure continuous wear

which can build product attachment

ALTERATION Associated with the aspect of having the possibility to alter a product to fit.

CONSUMER EDUCATION Associated with communication which facilitates consumer education and

knowledge to ensure proper care of products

STORY TELLING Associated with communication which tells stories and builds narrative

regarding to products, act to inspire and communicate with consumers

TRANSPARENCY Associated with giving the consumers as much information as possible about

the products

PRODUCT SERVICE SYSTEMS Associated with a range of services including customisation, repair & rental

which can enable ED.

FUNCTIONALITY Product features which ensure the functionality of a product, this can include

modular and multifunctional aspects which allows for evolvement of the

product

GRACEFULLY AGEING Product features which ensure that the product ages and the signs of wear are

celebrated

INTEGRATION

IDEATION Associated with the ideation phase which is needed when designing new

products/services which takes place during the empathise- and define phase.

Ideation can help overcome obstacles within the design processes.

KNOWLEDGE CREATION Corresponding to the knowledge which comes from cross-disciplinary

exchanges to create change within the industry, which can help clarify purpose

in definition phase

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INNOVATION Connected to ideation through experimenting with new methods, utilising new

methods to create a change, by including innovation. Innovations are tried out

in the test phase and iterated for refinement.

FEEDBACK LOOPS Associated with feedback between departments but also with consumers, which

links to iteration of products. These feedback loops are set up to ensure

continuous feedback

BRAINSTORM Associated with exploration and development of new ideas to help clarify

purpose, this is mostly done during the starting process of a project. Co-creative

brainstorming can develop broader perspectives and more ideas which can be

explored.

ITERATIVE PROCESS Associated with processes of iteration to refine and evaluate products and

services, which is a continuous process in the steps of DT g.

PROBLEM SOLVER Associated with the process of solving problems, which is the aim of DT g,

where the focus is on holistic thinking, while having a human-centered core.

DESIGN AS A STARTING

POINT

Associated with design being the starting point for integration of ED through

DT g

INNOVATIVE MINDSET Connected with designer’s innovative mindset, which includes capabilities to

connect human needs and desires with new opportunities and innovation from

business, science and technology.

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