emulsified egg (yolk) and oil (or butter) sauces warm hollandaise béarnaise cold mayonnaise ...

Emulsified Egg (Yolk) and Oil (or Butter) Sauces Warm

Hollandaise Béarnaise

Cold Mayonnaise

Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces Beurre Blanc Beurre Rouge Beurre Citron

Emulsified Butter Sauces Beurre Fondue Compound Butters

Fall 20111 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces 1 large egg yolk can emulsify up to 7 ounces of oil.

Too much oil, added too fast can break the emulsification Added too slow, will make the emulsion heavy Whole butter contains water and milk solids

Weakens the emulsion but has more butter flavor Classically, use clarified butter OR… Reserve some of the water/milk solids and add back into the finished

sauce

Egg yolks are most effective as emulsifiers when warm* *Cooked yolks are very weak emulsifiers Egg yolks begin to coagulate at 144˚F An acid added to egg yolks minimizes curdling and yolks

can be heated safely to 195˚F

From the clarification

process


Cooked Eggs-Various Temperatures

Egg Yolk begins to thicken

Egg Yolk is set


Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces, con’t. Safety

Use clean, sanitized equipment and containers Make close to service Hold at 145˚F…1½ Hours Maximum Make small batches Never mix an old batch with a new batch


Clarified Butter (aka., Drawn Butter) Milk Solids and Water

separated from Butterfat

Has a Higher Smoke Point

Less Flavor Emulsifies better

than whole butter


Make Clarified Butter1. Melt the whole butter over a low flame.

Ideally use a bain marie.


Make Clarified Butter2. Skim the whey as it floats to the top.


Make Clarified Butter3. For Ghee or “Beurre Noisette” Brown the

milk solids


Make Clarified Butter3. Pour Off the Clarified Butter leaving the

Water and Milk Solids behind

Milk Solids & WaterClarified Butter


Make Clarified Butter3. OR, Separate by removing the water and

milk solids off the bottom

Milk Solids & Water

Clarified Butter


Sauce Hollandaise Mother Sauce Warm Emulsified Sauce

Butter (Whole or Clarified) Egg Yolks Lemon Juice Salt & White Pepper Strained


Hollandaise (& Béarnaise) Ratio 5 parts butter : 1 part

yolk : 1 part liquid 1 Pound of butter 6 Yolks 3 oz of liquid (acid)


Liquid Portion (Acid) Fresh Lemon

Juice or Citrus Vinegar

Acid Reduction Vinegar Cracked

Peppercorns Shallots Reduced “Au

Sec”


Make Sauce Hollandaise Ingredients

2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons water 7 ounces warm clarified butter 2 teaspoons lemon juice Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

Method Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the 1st emulsion) Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon”

consistency Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous

stream Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice Hold at 120˚F


Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the

1st emulsion)


Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon” consistency

Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details


Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous stream



Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice



Sauce Béarnaise More of a “sister” to hollandaise than daughter

Not made as a derivative of hollandaise, rather a version of

Faux béarnaise is hollandaise with tarragon and capers added

To make Béarnaise: Add a Béarnaise reduction to Sabayon

Béarnaise Reduction: water white wine vinegar (white wine plus white wine vinegar) shallots, minced cracked peppercorns fresh tarragon (plus chervil classically) Reduced to “au sec”…(almost dry)


Adding Lemon Lemon is used to brighten

flavors Usually added at the end of

preparation Avoid cooking lemon…turns

bitter So…lemons are not used for

acid reductions


Broken Hollandaise Too Hot , Too Cool, or Too much Oil added Too

Fast1.Gently correct temperature (unless

scrambled)2.Whisk sauce into a little warm water or a little

warm water mixed with an egg yolk


Whisked Too Slowly or Butter Added Too Fast…Greasy and “Broken”

Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell22

Eggs Not Cooked Enough…Thin and Watery


Eggs Cooked Too Much…Scrambled Eggs


Hollandaise, Notes Clarified Butter vs. Whole Butter

Clarified Butter, Thicker and less flavorful Whole Butter, Thinner and but more flavor Best of both worlds…

Start with clarified butter and then with water/milk solids

Lemon Juice vs. Vinegar Reduction Vinegar (Escoffier) Lemon Juice, Fresher Flavor

Less than 4 yolks are easily over cooked


Two-Minute Hollandaise


1. Add 1 yolk, 1t. water, 1t. lemon juice & salt in a tall narrow container, mix.2. Using a immersion blender, stream in 1 stick of hot (220˚F), melted butter.3. Season with salt, and cayenne.

Cold Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces: Mayonnaise An emulsion of egg yolk, oil, and vinegar (or

lemon juice) May be made with olive oils or any neutral oil Mustard is optional but adds flavor and helps

to emulsify Use room temperature yolks Yolk may be lightly cooked to kill any

salmonella OR… Use pasteurized egg yolks Make only small amounts and use

immediately


Basic Mayonnaise 1 yolk : 1 liquid : 10 oil Liquid:

Mustard Lemon juice Meyer lemon juice Verjuice (very acidic juice of un-ripened grapes or

fruit) Oil:

Neutral Oils Grapeseed Canola Safflower

Olive OilFall 201128 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Make Sauce Mayonnaise

Secure mixing bowl. Add egg yolk and mustard.



Mix. Slowly add oil.



Add some lemon. Season with salt and white pepper.



Make only what is needed.

Real Mayo vs. Store-bought


Aioli (Garlic Mayonnaise) Garlic Paste add to

basic mayonnaise prep

Roasted or poached garlic tempers the garlic

Saffron is sometime added


Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces Beurre Blanc (Beurre Rouge, Beurre Citron)

“White Butter” (“Red Butter”, “Citrus Butter”) No flour, roux, corn starch!!! Reduction of white wine, white vinegar and

shallots (“gastride”) finished with cold pieces of butter


Make Beurre Blanc

Add wine, vinegar & aromatics.

Reduce.


Beurre Blanc or White Butter Sauce

Traditionally 3 Ingredients: Shallots, White Wine & ButterFinely minced shallots add flavor and help emulsify the sause.

Originally made with Muscadet Wine from Nantes region of France

Any crisp-dry white may be used or any acid such as vinegar or lemon

The shallots and wine form the base of the sauce and aid in the emulsification of the sauce.

The butter should be fresh and of high-quality, COLD and cut into tablespoon-sized pieces.

Making the Beurre Blanc: the Gastride

Make the Acid Reduction or “Gastride”.

Making the Beurre Blanc: the GastrideUse a heavy-bottom pan over medium heat and combine shallots and wine.

Making the Beurre Blanc: the GastrideBring to a simmer and reduce the liquid by about 2/3’s. If not properly reduced, the final sauce will be too thin. The gastride should be reduced to a syrupy consistency.

“Au Sec”

Alternatively, reduce to liquid to almost dry (“au sec”). This concentrates the flavor. A splash of liquid is then added back to the pan to start the emulsion process.

Make the Emulsion

Over LOW heat or off the heat, whisk in the COLD butter one piece at a time…add the next piece as previous piece has just been incorporated. This helps the sauce from getting too cold.

135˚F Maximum

The sauce will break if you exceed 135˚F or the sauce is allowed to cool below 80˚F

Feel the Sauce

The sauce should feel warm but not too hot.

Sauce Consistency

The sauce should be light and airy and coat a spoon

Season

Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Finish

If the sauce is a bit flat, add a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavors. If it tastes overly acidic, whisk in more butter.

“Beurre Nantes”

For a more stable sauce, cream may be added to the gastride and reduced by about ½ before the addition of butter.

Make Beurre Blanc

Use caution that the plate is not too hot


Make Beurre Blanc (variations)

Aromatics: Garlic, Ginger or

Lemongrass

Spices: Saffron, Pink Peppercorns or

FennelFall 201157 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Make Beurre Rouge

Substitute Red Wine and Red Wine

VinegarFall 201158 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Make Beurre Rouge

Goes well with fattier meats and fish

Other alcohols: Beer, Vermouth, Cognac or

CalvadosFall 201159 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Make Beurre Rouge

Balsamic Vinegar makes a dark, less appealing sauce

Citrus and Citrus Zest may also be

used (Beurre Citron)Fall 201160 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)

Truffle oil Fresh Herbs


Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)

Tomato Concassée


Day 10 Beurre Blanc Practical


Today’s Lab Beurre Blanc Sauce Hollandaise Mayonnaise, Basic Eggs Benedict Macadamia Nut Crusted Snapper with a Beurre Blanc Tom Kha Gai (Chicken and Galangal Soup) Salted Caramel Ice Cream (For Next Class, ‘Desserts’)


emulsified egg (yolk) and oil (or butter) sauces warm hollandaise béarnaise cold mayonnaise ...

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