english tailoring company | home - technical info v2...slim fit jacket size charts single breasted...

TechnicalInformation

Version1

Contents PageFittingoptions 1-2Alterations/inlay 3Overmeasure 3Garmentfitsets 4SlimfitJacketsizecharts 5-6Classicfitproductsizechart 7-8Trouser/Waistcoatproductsizecharts 9Fabricusagecharts 10-11Figurations 12-15Delivery 16CustomerContactdetails 17

Fittingoptions/tryonoptionsavailable.Allthebelowfittingoptionscanbechosenwhenplacinganorderonourbespokeorderingsystem.Tryon/ToileThisisonlytobeusedifyouareconfidentyoucanclearlypresenttoTheEnglishTailoringCompany(ETC)alterationsthatarerequiredtoenhancethefitofthetryon.Ifyouareunsureofwhattodo,maybethisisn’ttheoptionforyou.ETCwillsupplythegarmentbacktoyouwithbastedsleeveseams.Itwillhavechalkmarkedpocketsandthreadtagstomarkbuttonpositions.Thecollarmeltonisattachedtemporarilywithazigzagstitch.Thegarmentisunlinedandthereisnolapelfacingorbuttonandbuttonholes.WhenthegarmentisreturnedtoETCitispulledapart,recutandsentbacktothesewingline.Pleaseallow23weeksforfirstfitandafurther23weekswhenwereceivethegarmentback.Thisserviceischargeableontopofthequotedsuitprice,pleaseseepricelist.ForwardfittingThejacketiscuttomeasurementsprovided.Thegarmentisreturnedtothecustomerbeforethebackliningandsleeveliningissewnin.Unlikethetryon,thelapelfacing,collar(tacked)andpocketsareallinplace.Thisgivesyouroomtomakeminoralterationstothewaist,drapeandsleevelength.Pleaseallow23weeksfortheforwardfittingandafurther23weekswhenwereceivethegarmentback.Whenyouarefittingthecustomerpleaseremembertomarkbuttonplacementbeforereturningthejacket,ifyoudonotdothiswewillplacetheminthestandardposition.Thisserviceischargeableontopofthequotedsuitprice,pleaseseepricelist.

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MockfittingThejacketisfullyfinishedapartfrombutton&buttonholes.Wewillnotacceptanyalterationstothisjacketapartfrombuttonplacement.TheJacketcanbereturnedforbuttoning.Thisserviceischargeableontopofthequotedsuitprice,pleaseseepricelist.StraighttofinishThisgarmentwillbedeliveredtoyoufinished;AlterationscannotbecarriedoutonthisgarmentbyETC.Pleaseallow4weekstoreceiveyourfinishedgarment.

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AlterationsETCdoesnotperformanyalterationstofinishedgarments.InlaysETCprovidea2inchinlaytochest,waistseat,thisisdividedacrossthe5seamsOverbodymeasureVschesttowaistdropforblocksavailable

Chest Waist Seat

Jacket

Extra Slim over measure 2 2 2

Slim Chest to waist drop

Chest

Chest minus

5 inch

Chest plus

1 inch

Chest Waist Seat

Jacket

Slim over measure 3 3 3

Slim Chest to waist drop

Chest

Chest minus

5 inch

Chest plus 1

inch

Chest Waist Seat

Jacket

Classic 3 3 3

Extra Classic chest to waist

drop

Chest

Chest minus

4 inch Chest plus 2

inch

Chest Waist Seat

Jacket

Classic (comfort) 4 4 4

Extra Classic chest to waist

drop

Chest

Chest minus

4 inch Chest plus 2

inch

ETCprovideotherovermeasureoptionsforamoregenerousfit,pleasecontactusformoreinformation.

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GarmentfitsetsWeunderstandallcustomersaredifferent.Somewillonlyuseatapemeasure,whereotherswillfeelmuchmorecomfortableusingourgarmentfitsets.Byusingafitsetyouareabletoselecttheclosestfittingjacket,trouserandwaistcoat.Oncethecorrectsizeischosen,youcanworkoutanyalterationsthatareneededfromthestandard.Thesizechartonpage59showsthebasesizes.Youcaneitherorderthefitsetsinclassicorslimfitblocks.Werequireyouorderaminimumoffiveconsecutivefitsetsbetweensize3652inchesforthejacketsandsize3046inchesforthetrousers.Thesecanbeorderedintheretailers’choiceofclothandstyle.Wealsorecommendifyouwillbesellingwaistcoatstoincludetheseinyourorder,againpleaseorderaminimumoffiveconsecutivesizes.Toorderyourfitsetspleaseringourheadofficeandasktospeaktooneofoursalescoordinatorswhowillbemorethanhappytohelpyou.OnceyouhavereceivedyourrangeoffitsetsyouwillbeabletouseETCorderingsystem.Hereyoucancreateyourproductwiththeaidofthefitsetsandalteranymeasurementsyouneedtoimprovethefitforthecustomer.

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SlimFitJacketsizecharts

SingleBreastedJacketSlimCut2inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

Waist 33 35 37 39 41 ½ 44 46 48 50

Seat 39 41 43 45 47 ½ 50 52 54 56

Shoulderpointtopoint 17 1 /2 18 18 1/2 19 19 1/2 20 20 1/2 21 21 3/4

HalfBack 8 5/8 8 7/8 9 1/8 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8

Centrebacklength 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 30 3/4 31 31 1/4 31 1/2 31 1/2 32

Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17

CuffCircumference 11 11 11 11½ 12 12½ 12½ 12½ 121/2

Crowntocuff 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2

CentrebacklengthShort 271/2 28 281/2 283/4 29 291/4 291/2 291/2 30

CentrebacklengthLong 311/2 32 321/2 323/4 33 331/4 331/2 331/2 34

CrowntocuffShort 23½ 23¾ 24 24¼ 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 251/2

CrowntocuffLong 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 26½ 26¾ 27 27¼ 271/2

SingleBreastedJacketslimCut3inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55

Waist 34 36 38 40 42 ½ 45 47 49 51

Seat 40 42 44 46 48 ½ 51 53 55 57


HalfBack 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 3/4

CentrebacklengthReg 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 30 3/4 31 31 1/4 31 1/2 31 1/2 32

Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17

CuffCircumference 11 11 11 11½ 12 12½ 12½ 12½ 121/2

CrowntocuffReg 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





**Boththeaboveblockshaveafiveinchdropfromchesttowaist.ThismakesaveryshapelywaistedJacket.Wemakethiswitha2or3inchovermeasure.**

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DoubleBreastedJacketSlimCut2inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

Waist 33 35 37 39 41 ½ 44 46 48 50

Seat 39 41 43 45 47 ½ 50 52 54 56


HalfBack 8 5/8 8 7/8 9 1/8 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17

CuffCircumference 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½ 12½ 12½ 121/2

Crowntocuff 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





DoubleBreastedJacketslimCut3inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55

Waist 34 36 38 40 42 ½ 45 47 49 51

Seat 40 42 44 46 48 ½ 51 53 55 57


HalfBack 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 3/4


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17


CrowntocuffReg 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





**Boththeaboveblockshaveafiveinchdropfromchesttowaist.ThismakesaveryshapelywaistedJacket.Wemakethiswitha2or3inchovermeasure.**

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ClassicFitJacketsizecharts

SingleBreastedJacketClassicCut3inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55

Waist 35 37 39 41 43 ½ 46 48 50 52

Seat 40 42 44 46 48 1/2 51 53 55 57


HalfBack 8 5/8 8 7/8 9 1/8 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17


Crowntocuff 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





SingleBreastedJacketClassicCut4inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

Waist 36 38 40 42 44 ½ 47 49 51 53

Seat 41 43 45 47 49 ½ 52 54 56 58


HalfBack 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 3/4


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17


CrowntocuffReg 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





**Boththeaboveblockshaveafourinchdropfromchesttowaist.Theyalsohaveaslightlylowerarmhole.Thisallowsforamoregenerous(classicfit).Wemakethiswitha3or4inchovermeasure.** 7

DoubleBreastedJacketClassicCut3inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55

Waist 34 36 38 40 42 1/2 45 47 49 51

Seat 40 42 44 46 48 1/2 51 53 55 57


HalfBack 8 5/8 8 7/8 9 1/8 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17


Crowntocuff 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2





DoubleBreastedJacketClassicCut4inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

Waist 36 38 40 42 44 ½ 47 49 51 53

Seat 41 43 45 47 49 ½ 52 54 56 58


HalfBack 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 9 ¾ 10 10 ¼ 10 ½ 10 3/4


Bicep 14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 17 17


Crowntocuff 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 261/2




CrowntoLong 25½ 25¾ 26 26¼ 26½ 26¾ 27 27¼ 271/2

**Boththeaboveblockshaveafourinchdropfromchesttowaist.Theyalsohaveaslightlylowerarmhole.Thisallowsforamoregenerous(classicfit).Wemakethiswitha3or4inchovermeasure.**

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Trouserproductsizecharts

FlatFront,Single/DoublePleatedtrousers

30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46Waist 30½ 32½ 34½ 36½ 38½ 40½ 42½ 44½ 461/2Seat 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54Thigh 22½ 23½ 24½ 25½ 26½ 27½ 28½ 29½ 301/2Hem 16¾ 16¾ 17 17 17¼ 17¼ 17½ 17½ 17¾InsideLegReg 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31Outsideleginc.waistbandreg 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42Outsidelegincwaistbandlong 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44Outsidelegincwaistbandshort 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40Frontriseincwaistband 11¼

11½

11¾

12 12¼

12½

12¾

13 13¼

Backriseincwaistband 15¾ 16 16¼

16½

16¾

17 17¼

17½ 17¾

InsideLegshort 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29InsideLegLong 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33InsideLegUnlegged 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36Waistbanddepth 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 15 1.5 1.5

Waistcoatproductsizecharts

Single&Doublebreastedwaistcoats1.5inchovermeasure

36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52Chest 37.5 39.5 41.5 43.5 45.5 47.5 49.5 51.5 53.5Waist 32.5 34.5 36.5 38.5 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 48.5

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FabricusageBelowareguidetablesshowingETCminimumrequirementsforindividualproducts.Wereservetherighttoaltertheserequirementsatanytime.

Singlebreastedjackets Metre(m) Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_3444chest_Plain/Stripe_fabric 2.00Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_3444chestCheck_fabric 2.20Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket46+chest_Plain/Stripefabric 2.10Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket46+chestCheckedfabric 2.30

Doublebreastedjackets Metre(m)

DoubleBreasted_Jacket_3444_chest_Plain/Stripe_fabric 2.25Double_BreastedJacket_3444_chest_Checked_fabric 2.45Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chest_Plain/stripe_fabric 2.35Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chest_Checked_fabric 2.55

Trousers Metre(m) Waist_Size_2038_Plain_and_stripe_Fabric 1.8Waist_Size_2038_checkedfabric_Fabric 2.0Waist_Size_40+_Plain_and_stripe_Fabric 1.9Waist_Size_40+_Checked_Fabric 2.1

Singlebreastedwaistcoats Metre(m) Single_Breastedwaistcoat_34+_chestwithsatinliningback 0.8mSingle_Breastedwaistcoat_34+_chestwithfabricback 1.1m

Doublebreastedwaistcoats Metre(m) Double_Breastedwaistcoat_34+_chestwithsatinliningback 0.8mDouble_Breastedwaistcoat_34+_chestwithFabricback 1.25m

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Singlebreastedtwopiecesuitjacket&trousers Metre(m) Single_Breasted/BeatlesJacket3444chestwithtrousers_Plain/Stripe_fabric 3.8Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_3444_chestwithtrousers_Check_fabric 4.0Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_46+_chest_with_trousers_Plain/Stripe_fabric 4.0Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_46+_chest_with_trousers_Checked_fabric 4.2 Doublebreastedtwopiecesuitjacket&trousers Metre(m) DoubleBreasted_Jacket_3444_chest_withtrousers_Plain/Stripe_fabric 4.1Double_BreastedJacket_3444_chestwithtrousers_Checked_fabric 4.3Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chestwithtrouserPlain/stripe_fabric 4.3Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chestwithtrousersChecked_fabric 4.5

Singlebreastedthreepiecesuitjacket&trousers&waistcoat Metre(m) Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_3444_chest,trs&waistcoat_Plain/Stripe_fabric 4.8Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_3444_chest,withtrs&waistcoat_Check_fabric 5.0Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_46+_chest,_trs&waistcoat_Plain/Stripe_fabric 5.1Single_Breasted/Beatles_Jacket_46+_chest_with_trs&waistcoat_Checked_fabric 5.3

Doublebreastedthreepiecesuitjacket&trousers&waistcoat Metre(m) DoubleBreasted_Jacket_3444_chest_withtrs&waistcoat_Plain/Stripe_fabric 5.2Double_BreastedJacket_3444_chestwithtrousers&waistcoat_Checked_fabric 5.4Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chestwithtrouser&waistcoatPlain/stripe_fabric 5.5Double_BreastedJacket_46+_chestwithtrousers&waistcoatChecked_fabric 5.7

Note:IforderingfrombunchessuppliedbyETCwewillchargetheaboveusagestothegarmentscost.Ifweoryouorderfromathirdpartyfabricsuppliertheamountofclothorderedwillbechargedtoyouraccount

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FigurationsAtETCweareabletoprovidefigurationoptions.Belowisaguidetowhatfigurationsweofferandhowtheymayhelpyouprovideabetterfittingsuit.Weofferthebelowfigurationswithoutatry–on:LongNeck/SlopingshoulderShortNeck/SquareshoulderDropshouldersSleevepitchFigurationoptionsofferedwithtryononly:LongNeck/SlopingshoulderShortNeck/SquareshoulderDropshouldersSleevepitchEasyscyeErect(militarystance)Full/barrelchest(militarystance)Youwillbeabletochoosealltheaboveoptionswhenusingourorderingsystem,whichisprovidedwiththisbrochure.Ifyouwouldliketospeaktooneofourtechnicianspleaseringwithyourenquiryandwewillbepleasedtohelp.Figurationdetail–whattolookfor.Longneck/SlopingshoulderWhattolookfor:

� Breaking/Collapsinginthebackdrapeandchestarea.� Jacketcollarsitslowontheneckandistoolowontheshirtcollar� Toomuchfullnessatbackscyecausedbycollapsingshoulderpads

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CorrectiontopatternTheangleoftheshoulderlineisloweredthroughthreepoints,½inch,¾inchand1inch.Shortneck/squareshouldersWhattolookfor:

� Horizontalcrease(s)runningapprox.1inchbelowthecollar.� Collarmaystandawayfromtheneckwhenjacketisfastened.� Theshirtcollarwillbepredominatelycoveredbythejacketcollar.

CorrectiontopatternThecollarisloweredandtheshoulderendsliftedfrontandback.ETCcanlowerthecollarandlifttheshoulderendsby½inch,¾inchand1inchDropshoulderWhattolookfor:

� Bottomsofthefrontofthejacketarenotaligned.� Breakinginthechestonsideofthedrop� Buttonandbuttonholesarenotaligned

CorrectiontogarmentWecorrectthedropshoulderbyincreasingthethicknessoftheshoulderpad.Weareabletoaccountfora3/8inchor¾inchoneitherside.

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SleevepitchWhattolookfor:Thefrontedgeofastandardsleeveshouldpitchapproximatelyhalfwayacrossthelowerpockets.BackwardpitchIfthecustomerneedsbackwardpitchedsleevesyouwillfindthesleeverucksontheupperhindarm.ForwardpitchIfthecustomerneedsforwardpitchedsleevesyouwillfindthesleeverucksontheupperforearm.ForETCtoclearlyunderstandthepitchneededyouwillneedtodothiswithacustomerinajacketorwithanETCtry–on:

1. Askthecustomertoplacehisarmsintheusualstance.Markwherethefrontedgeofthecuffsitsonthejacket

2. Rotatethearmtowheretherearenocreases/ruckspresentontheupperarm,markthefrontedge.Youshouldfindtheupperarmlayscreasefreewhenthefrontedgeisapproximatelyhalfwayacrossthepocket,ifthepitchofthejacketsleeveshavenotbeencorrectedfromastandardpitch

3. Measurethedistancefromthe1stmarktothe2ndmark4. Recordthisinourorderingsystem.

Figurationoptionsofferedwithtryononly.EasyscyeWhattolookfor:Jacketarmholeistight;thiscancausecreasingonthetopofthesleevenearthebiceps

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CorrectiontopatternThecircumferenceofthearmholeisincreasedlaterally.Bydoingthis,thiswillincreasethefinishedchestmeasurement.Erect(militarystance)Whattolookfor:

� TheJacketislongeratthebackthanitisatthefront.� Therewillbecreasinginthehindarmduetosleevepitch.� Theshouldersareoftenfoundinthebackwardposition.

CorrectiontopatternThefrontbalanceisincreasedproportionallytothebackbalancebeingdecreased.Whenperformingthiscorrectionwewouldalsoalterthepitchofthesleeves.Moderate½inchandthesleevespitchedbackExtreme¾inchandthesleevespitchedbackSevere1inchandthesleevespitchedbackRoundback(stooping)Whattolookfor:

� Jacketappearstobelongeratthefrontthenattheback.� Jacketcollarmaystandofftheneck.� Possiblehumpinmiddleofthetopback.

CorrectiontopatternThebackbalance/lengthisincreasedandthefrontbalancereducedModerate½inchExtreme¾inchSevere1inch

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DeliveryoptionsETCuseanovernightcourierservice.Weofferanextdaybefore9amserviceoranextdaybefore4pm.Atryonwillbedeliveredtoyouinacourierbag.Afinishedgarmentwillbedeliveredinasuitbox.Pleaseseebelowforatableofcharges.Wewillautomaticallyselectthemostcosteffectivewayofdeliveringyourordertoyou.Ifyouwishforanimprovedservicepleasegetintouchwithoneofoursalescoordinators.Deliverymatrixtable Del

TimeMailPack

CourierPack

Parcel1

Parcel2

Parcel3

England&Wales ND16 £5.95 £6.95 £9.95 £13.95 £13.95 ND09 £18.95 £19.45 £21.95 £25.95 £25.95Scotland&centralborders ND16 £7.45 £7.95 £10.45 £14.45 £14.45 ND09 £19.45 £19.95 £22.45 £26.45 £26.45NorthernIreland ND16 £18.00 £20.00 £24.50 £28.50 £28.50 ND09 £29.00 £32.00 £36.50 £40.50 £40.50S.Ireland ND16 £27.00 £30.00 £38.50 £42.50 £42.50 IsleofMan ND16 £22.00 £30.00 £39.50 £43.50 £43.50 IsleofWight ND16 £27.00 £27.00 £29.50 £33.50 £33.50 ChannelIslands ND16 £32.00 £37.00 £44.50 £48.50 £48.50ND16–Nextdaybefore4pmND09Nextdaybefore9amMailpack–willonlybeusedfortry–onorunfinishedgarmentslessthan1KGCourierPacks–willonlybeusedfortry–onorunfinishedgarmentswithatotalweightoflessthan5KGParcel1–willbeusedtoshiponesuitParcel2–willbeusedtoshiptwosuitsParcel3willbeusedtoshipfoursuits 16

CustomerContactInformationTelephone:01484487805Fax:01484512901Email:[email protected]:Antich&Sons(Huddersfield)LtdC/0EnglishTailoringCompanyStationRdLeedsRdHuddersfieldHD21UWAllinformationwasaccurateattimeofprint.(Wewillattimetotimechangeinformationwithinthisbrochureandreissueit).

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