enhancing beauty through science

8/8/2019 Enhancing Beauty Through Science

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“Ever since its creation by a researcher

100 years ago, the group has neverstopped investing in research.

For L’Oréal, there can be no innovative productwithout an advance in knowledge. Driven bythis conviction, the group’s laboratorieshave constructed the largest scientific data base,drawing on the observation of beauty routines andthe evaluation of product performances acrossthe globe. L’Oréal Research is constantlyanticipating regulations and consumption trendsto turn them into competitive advantages.For many years, our researchers have been

helping to eliminate animal testing by the use of reconstructed skin, supporting demand fornatural products by analysing plant-basedingredients, and exploring the potential of the lifesciences to imagine the beauty of the future: abeauty that will be active, personalised, andrespectful of the planet.

Jea-Fraçois GrollierExecutive Vice-President

Research and Development

Enhancing beautythrough science

Expertise — Research and Development

100 YEARS On,tHE HAIR COLOuRAnt REVOLutIOn

The L’Oréal adventure began in 1909 withthe Société des teintures inoffensives pourcheveux. Hair colourants were the corebusiness, and have remained so ever since.The century has been marked by L’Oréal’shair colourant innovations, one every10 years: new colours, respect for hair fibre,long-lasting colour, odour-free colourants...Over the last three years, the pace hasaccelerated. Replacing ammonia by a non-

80% of he world’s poplaio hasdark hai r , makig grey hai rsimmediaely visible. to cover grey hairor chage is color, wome ad mewa a colora wih warm, deepoes which is also log-lasig. Forhem, L’Oréal labo raories hav edeveloped Rbilae®, he resl of fiveyears of research ad a hosad headess i Erope, he uied Saes,Lai America ad Asia. Is 3Dsrcre, he oly oe of is ype ioxidaio hair coloras, provides

Rubilane®: a passion for colour

hree esseial qaliies. Iese, verydeep ad highly lmios oes,pariclarly i he reds, ad perfeclyiform color from roo o ip from hefirs applicaio, which is shampoo-resisa over ime ad maiais isorigial oe. te oes are available i2008 from L’OréaL PrOfessiOnneL i hecopper, copper-red, red-copper ad redis, i cream or gel-cream formlas.

aromatic base, L’Oréal invented odour-freecolourants with Casting Crème Gloss. Bydiversifying its technology, L’Oréal createda twin-tone colourant, with application timecut from 40 to 10 minutes, marketed asExcell 10’. Constantly listening to consum-ers and professionals is always a source of innovation. L’Oréal thus developed Rubi-lane®, an unprecedented 3D molecularstructure which opens up a previously inac-cessible spectrum of colour: deep copperreds, longer lasting with remarkably highperformances. The genius of a dozen



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Japan: creation of a high technologydepartment.

China: creation of a biology andreconstructed skin unit.

Brazil: creation of a research anddevelopment unit in Rio de Janeiro.

France: creation of two laboratories,specialising in ecotoxicity andhigh-throughput performanceevaluation of new active ingredients.

Europe: at the end of 2008,L’Oréal pre-registered all its chemicalsubstances covered by EuropeanREACh regulations (Registration,

Evaluation, Authorisation andRestriction of Chemicals).

Desigig a lipsick eas eeig hree key reqirees which a firs sighsee icopaible: a lipsick s be glossy, log-lasig ad coforable.How ca a fil be applied o he lips which is srog eogh o be log-lasig,spple eogh o be coforable wiho vaishig he oe oe eassoehig, ad sooh eogh o be glossy? the aswer: a faily of polyers,iveed by L’Oréal’s eas i collaboraio wih iversiy researchers adsppliers, he cliaio of research which bega i 2001, proeced by oreha 20 paes. the polyers’ peda-ecklace srcre eas ha hepedas adhere o he lip, akig he lipsick log-lasig, while preservigelasiciy, sppleess ad cofor o he lips. the resl: iese color,exree gloss, ad a spple, highly resisa fil which lass for 12 hors.A gloss wih iese colors whose forlaio had bee ipossible p o owwiho he risk of he lipsick bleedig.

Gloss reflects researchers’ perseverance

researchers, and thousands of head testson several continents, make this new gen-eration of colourants a sure winner when itcomes to haircare innovation.

tHE ODYSSEY OFnAtuRAL COSmEtICS

In 2007, L’Oréal created a natural andorganic cosmetics expertise unit. With cos-metics expertise, its powerful analysis andevaluation methods, and the know-how of its formulators, L’Oréal has everything itrequires to demonstrate the efficacy of natural cosmetics and develop conceptsthat would be inaccessible today using con-ventional chemistry.A natural substance can include around ahundred ingredients which no conventionalformula could contain. Even at a very low

Demonstrating the efficacy of natural andorganic cosmetics ingredients is a key objective.

11 IN FRANcE

Chevilly-Larue, Clichy (2 centres),

Tours, Aulnay, Lyon, Sophia Antipolis,Monaco, Nice, Gigors-et-Lozeron,Lassigny

3 IN THE UNITED STATES

Clark, Chicago, Princeton3 IN ASIA

Kawasaki,Tokyo (Japan) Pudong (China)1 IN LATIN AMERIcA

Rio de Janeiro (Brazil)

COSmEtICS AnD DERmAtOLOGICAL RESEARCH CEntRES WORLDWIDE

dose, these substances are highly effective,enabling minimalist formulation for maxi-mum efficacy. Some sustainably developedessential oils turn out to be more effectivethan certain standard conventional ingredi-ents, and thus enable self-protecting for-mulas.

These initial advances, which will be intro-duced into the SanofLore, The Body Shop and Garnier brands, are just the first signsof a new kind of cosmetics which will revealthe full extent of its performances and itsability to meet aspirations for naturalnessand efficacy.



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Expertise — Research and Development

COSmEtICS InStRumEntS—tHE PROmISE OF EFFICACY

Going beyond conventional applicators,L’Oréal is exploring types of packaging andapplicators which will add to the potentialof formulas, for example by the use of energy. A massage, a temperature differ-ence or a vibration can stimulate skin cells,smooth out circles around the eyes, or helpapply the product exactly where it isneeded. The initial results are conclusive.Garnier Eye Roll-on uses both mechanicalenergy (roller massage) and thermal energy(cold metal roller). The brand new Ôscilla-

tion mascara from Lancôme uses micro-os-cillation to spread the product evenly andseparate the lashes. These two innovationscame as a great surprise, and were a runa-way success. Today, L’Oréal is inventingcosmetics instruments while continuing itsresearch into instrumental cosmetics, whichis closer to medical processes such as laserpeeling, wrinkle fillers or injections.

tHE “BEAutYOmICS” AnDEtHICAL BEAutY OF tOmORROW

Cellular and then molecular biology hasenabled researchers to study the skin andhair as living organs, made up of cells whosefunctions change under the effect of age-ing, stress and the environment. The adventof “omic” tools, such as transcriptomicsand proteomics, has thrown a new andexpert light on to ageing, hair loss and skinrepair or regeneration. The work of L’Oréalresearchers on the skin genes involved inageing has already paid off. It has enabledthe decoding of a family of proteins which

have a discriminating signature for skinyouthfulness, and the selection of activeingredients which can re-express youthfulcharacteristics. Another team has suc-ceeded in enriching or impoverishing in

vitro an epidermis of stem cells to correctthe damage caused by the effects of sun orage. The first new generation anti-ageingskincare products are being launched at thestart of 2009.

Screening raw materials for efficacyby means of physical (shown opposite)

and biological criteria.

In the evaluation of raw materials,the absence of environmental impact is a priority.

the beay of he ski, is yohfless,how i ages, ad is abiliy o proeciself agais sress ad aggressios arelargely liked o he geeic heriage of each idividal. I collaboraio wihieraioally reowed eas i Fracead Caada, L’Oréal’s researchers haveade se of he ools of oder biologyo hrow ligh o o he oleclar argesof ski ageig. I he process, hey havediscovered ha yohfl ski ad agedski have specific proei sigares, adha hese sigares chage wih agead whe sbjeced o sress. theseresls have eabled he o selec aciveigredies which are codcive o he

Anti-ageing: a new approach to research

expressio of yohfless i ski byacig o he proeis a he srfaceof he epideris, which are prodcedby he aciviy of he gees. L’Oréalresearchers were he able o selecacive igredies which have aacio o his faily of proeis. thepower of hese “oic” ools has adei possible o prove heir efficacycoclsively wiho sig biopsies oroher ivasive echiqes. Severalacive copods have already beeevalaed sig hese echiqes, adwill be iclded i he forlaio of a ew geeraio of ai-ageig ski-care prodcs.

Work of this type requires a strict ethicalapproach: the aim here is absolutely not tomodify the genetic code or play with varia-tions in the expression of genes, but insteadto understand the result of the activity of our genes on beauty.

These ethical considerations are alsoreflected in the group’s commitment not touse laboratory animals to evaluate theharmlessness of products, and not to affectthe well-being of future generations, byadopting an eco-design approach.



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InVEntInG A CEntuRY OF BEAutY

From March 2009, the European CosmeticsDirective prohibits the sale in Europe of cosmetics products whose ingredients havebeen subjected to certain types of animaltesting. This prohibition will apply to alltests in 2013. To guarantee its ability toinnovate without making any safety conces-sions, L’Oréal Research anticipated thistrend 30 years ago, by developing a safetyevaluation strategy based on predictiveapproaches. They are based on data herit-age built up over the past 100 years: a thor-ough knowledge of ingredients, the results

of tests conducted up to now, the develop-ment of in vitro tools (based on cell culture)and in silico tools (statistical models usedto predict a toxological profile from achemical structure), the correlations estab-lished between all these results and clinicalstudies or “Post-Marketing Surveillance”,the sharing of data with the group’s suppli-ers and players from all other industries aspart of European partnerships, and aboveall scientific advances.These approaches are predictive of safety,but also of efficacy, and this is their strengthwhen it comes to guaranteeing innovation.For the 2013 deadline, the cosmetics indus-try is working with great determination

alongside the whole range of industrial sec-

Innovating by controllingthe impact products have on

the planet

Medaka fish eggs are a model for evaluating environmental harmlessness.

Modern biological tools can conclusively demonstratethe efficacy of cosmetics.

research and

developMent budGet

(€millions, including 50% of Galderma research

expenses)

nuMber of patents

(cosmetics and dermatological research)

20082008

5813,268

2008

628

20072007

5603,095

2007

576

20062006

5332,961

2006

569

cosMetics and

derMatoloGical research

eMployees

(including 50% of Galderma research employees)

tors, and the European Commission, whichplans to take stock in 2011 of the progressmade by research in this area.To control the impact of products on theplanet, the L’Oréal laboratories have put inplace an eco-design approach which incor-porates—from the ingredient selectionstage—indicators about the traceability of ingredients, what happens to them in waterand air, and their impact on biodiversity.Suppliers of raw materials are involved inthis process, and are required to complywith naturalness criteria from the ingredient

design stage. More than 15 years ago,L’Oréal’s researchers carried out the firstecotoxicity studies with scientific expertsacross the globe. In 2008, the group cre-ated a laboratory specialising in ecotoxicityat Aulnay-sous-Bois (France), which alsouses predictive methods to evaluate impacton ecosystems.

In a changing world, thanks to advances inknowledge, beauty is being invented in thelaboratories of L’Oréal, as it listens to con-sumers all over the world.

enhancing beauty through science

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