estetica 20th edtion -full version

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N° 19/12 EDITION

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N° 20/12 EDITION

COLLECTIONPony Express

FEATUREGoing Green

GALLERYClose-up with Le Mindu

Enter the ESTETICA

digital world.The future is now!

WEB

SOCIAL MEDIA

www.estetica.co.za

www.facebook.com/Esteticasouthafrica

www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA

Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com

AW821_SA gold_Katy DPS Estetica Africa.indd All Pages 08/08/2012 15:25

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E D I T O R I A L

Global warming, overflowing landfills and polluted oceans have become hot topics in recent years. Documentaries such as Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth, which follows his campaign to make the issue of global warming a recognised problem worldwide, has opened people’s eyes to the impact we as humans have on this beautiful planet. Eskom power shortages have made households re-evaluate their electricity usage. Many opting for energy saving bulbs, LED lighting and solar powered systems, thereby reducing their contribution to the usage of our diminishing coal resources and their impact on the environment. What we eat and how we cook has been scrutinised. We are informed about hormones used to speed the growth of animals and pesticides sprayed onto our fresh produce. Organic labels are now seen throughout aisles and fridges in supermarkets. Cooking on gas stoves and in cast iron pots to retain the heat is recommended in order to save energy. All this consciousness about what we consume and put into our bodies has naturally sparked interest into what we use on the exterior of our bodies. The skin is the bodies largest organ and absorbs, often straight into our bloodstream, a lot of what we put onto it. In this edition of ESTETICA SA has included a Going Green feature, page 85-95, which explores the ‘green’ movement in the beauty and haircare industry towards recyclable packaging, organic ingredients and sustainable products. In Saving Face, page 86-89, we take a look at the popularity of the cosmetic industry, the ingredients used in make-up and beauty products, and what we should look out for. On a lighter note, the end of the year and festive season is fast approaching. With summer in full swing, days are spent in the sun, pool and for some of the lucky ones that live on the coast, in the sea. Unfortunately, this has a negative impact on our hair leaving it feeling dry and dull. Clients today have access to a multitude of treatments to replenish and moisturise their hair. Treat them Kindly, page 100-103, explores professional in-salon treatments and the benefits of offering them to your clients. Let us enter 2013 aware of the state the planet is in and start taking small steps towards decreasing our impact on the environment. I would like to wish all ESTETICAN’S a very merry Christmas, safe festive season and prosperous New Year.

Cindy Horton Editor

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 5

Cindy HortonEditor

ESTETICA South [email protected]

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Hair: Tracey Hughes for Mieka Hairdressing

Photo: Amber TomsMake-up: Sue Marshall

Styling: Kate CarnegieProducts: Redken

Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl,

Turin/Italy

Published byTopco Media

2nd Floor

Bree Street Studios

17 New Church Street

Cape Town

Ph: 086 000 9590

Fax: 021 423 7876

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.estetica.co.za

STAFFPublisher

Richard Fletcher

General ManagerVan Fletcher

EditorCindy Horton

Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton

Art DirectorJayne Macé

Advertising & Business Development Manager

Lizel Jonker

[email protected]

Imageswww.shutterstock.com

PrintersPaarl Media Paarl

F A S H I O N

8 Catwalks Designing Women

12 Looks Timeless Romance

17 Beauty Make-up

19 Beauty Women

21 Beauty Men

22 Creativity Skymind Dreams

24 Events A World of Beauty

26 Collection Pony Express

C O N T E N TESTETICA FASHION N°. 20/12 – TWENTIETH EDITION 2012

New generation women. Drenched in metallic sensuality, contemporary urban girls challenge anything less than the best.

M O D A : I N T E R N A T I O N A L T R E N D S

36 Metropolis

54 Olympic

62 Baroque

P R O F E S S I O N A L

82 Feature Going Green

83 Editorial Saving Face

89 Initiatives Bring Me Back

90 Advertorial Colorsmash

92 Round Table Eco Service

94 Gallery Up-close with Le Mindu

98 Treatments Treat Them Kindly

102 Interview Restart Cosmoprof

104 Events F.A.M.E Team

108 Awards Hair Worship

110 Events Trade Exhibit

112 Legends Styling It Out

114 Shooting Shooting Secrets

116 Agenda Calender

118 Report Style Studio

119 News Report

122 Product Reviews

127 Subscriptions

128 Stockists

ESTETICA FASHION N°. 20/12 – TWENTIETH EDITION 2012

The final prints are finely rendered artwork which transcend boundaries of both photography and design.

az Luhrmann’s remake of The Great Gatsby inspired many designers to re-examine Art Deco’s imprint on style. Mark Badgley and

James Mischka referenced Fritz Lang’s silent film classic Metropolis with silhouettes that looked as lean and angular as the film’s architecture. A steel-coloured column channeled a futuristic cityscape while the sensuous drape of a pink gown had a satin-sheet, boudoir sexiness. Moroccanoil’s lead stylist Peter Gray created a curl with small curling rods followed by backcombing and brushing hair up, down, and sideways for a voluminous take on finger waves. The look reinvented 20s flair for modern women.Refined glamour is Carolina Herrera’s signature, but her fall collection telegraphed an edgy elegance in icy and midnight blues, plum and mauve for evening: a futuristic pop-collage print transformed a strapless gown from classic to avant-garde and fluid, pale blue silk had Gothic-looking designs of birds and branches. But it was the big and backcombed hair tied with black headbands, created by Orlando Pita for Moroccanoil, that gave the clothes their socialite meets the girls generation vibe. To get the look, Pita blow-dried the model’s hair in sections with a round brush, lifting the hair at the roots and backcombing from the nape of the neck to the front of the head, creating an outsized volume that looked young and cool. Catherine Malandrino referenced the 1940’s horror film La Feline, in which the protagonist, a beautiful fashion designer by day, morphs into a man-eating panther by night. Slinky, printed velvet with long, stretch vinyl sleeves conveyed a kind of racy propriety and laser-cut leather dresses sewn over mesh achieved a predatory glamour. “The hair looks were inspired by the feline mystery of the 1980’s film Cat People,” explains Moroccanoil Artistic Director Antonio Corral Calero, who created styles with glossy waves and volume through the crown with slicked-back sides.

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Vintage classics of the silver screen inspired many designers.

Femme fatales, Art Deco divas and Grunge girls inspired New York designers for F/W ’12. Moroccanoil and L’Oréal Professionnel artists met the challenge brilliantly. by Kendall Farr

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A futuristic pop-collage print transformed a

strapless gown from classic to avant-garde

at Carolina Herrera. Badgley Mischka’s

pink gown had a satin-sheets-in-the-

boudoir sexiness.

C A T W A L K S

Backcombing, texture and big volume accentuated the look of many collections. Moroccanoil artists and their teams interpreted the Fall’12 trends with a range of statement making hairstyles.

Photo: Luidi Hara for Moroccanoil

Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

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Jenny Packham

Nostalgia with an edgeThe East Village of Rent may now belong to hedge funders and film stars, but the design duo of Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein had post-punk rebellion on their minds when they designed their fall lineup. Layered knits and velvet maxi-skirts were paired with long leather coats with deluxe fur trims and dresses while pants cut from dark brocades recalled grunge and the early 90s. L’Oréal Professionnel Master Session Artist, Joseph DiMaggio channeled the designer’s nostalgia into styles that had an ‘effortless’, danced-all-night and slept-all-day texture. Using dry shampoo for volume, he tied hair in low ponytails for an undone look that perfectly suited the clothes. Jenny Packham’s muse was also a forties-era femme fatale she described as “bewitchingly glamorous and a woman who could lure a man to his doom or bring him to despair”. So Packham’s looks included siren-worthy red and film-noir black along with pale blue. Her soft, bias cuts accented with jeweled necks and flirty short styles with padded shoulders looked just right for the dame holding the smoking gun. Packham’s period references were advanced by the double ‘victory roll’ hairstyle designed by L’Oréal Professionnel’s Leonardo Manetti, who created the look by wrapping straight hair around a foam piece in the front across the forehead and then rolling the back hair into a hair net. Houghton designer Kathleen Polk showed a collection of diaphanous shapes, soft details with most looks in shades of cream or white. Perfect for the downtown ingénue who likes her dresses artifice-free, and subtly sexy. Make-up was soft and minimal and the hair was styled with an unstudied glamour. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Laura Polko and her team created variations on the kind of coif a modern woman styles for herself. Hair was curled and left soft, loose and defined by a deep side part. Or twisted and caught up into a low bun with layers tucked behind the ear. The effect was as fresh as Polk’s palette. Fashion designers will always rely on great hair stylists to create a critical piece of the visual story they want their collections to tell.

C A T W A L K S

40s femme fatales, grunge goddesses and downtown ingénues were among the many looks created by teams from L’Oréal Professionnel.

Backstage Jenny Packham:Paul Nathan Backstage Houghton and Timo Weiland: Jesse Fiorino

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n Femme fatale or ingénue, muse or siren, futuristic or vintage, simple or frilly.

At TimoWeiland,

brocade and combat boots channeled the

90s while designer

Jenny Packhamevoked a 40s

femme fatale in beaded silks.At Houghton,

unadorned dresses looked

subtely sexy.


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Timeless Romance

A cult classic, Tim Burton has brought ‘Dark Shadows’ to the big screen, with a star-studded cast led by Johnny Depp and a harem of silver screen beauties.

ll things dark and mysterious have always captured our collective romantic imaginations, and Dark Shadows was a Gothic soap opera

that enthralled the after-school set in the 1960s with the daily vicissitudes of the peculiar Collins family. Today, in the wake of vampire-esque successes like True Blood and Twilight, it is not surprising that the other-worldly master of film Tim Burton cast such ‘black magic women’ as Michelle Pfeiffer, Eva Green, and Bella Heathcote in his big screen interpretation of this tale. For this edition of our VIP looks, InStyler Professional’s Dean Banowetz, Brand Development Expert and Company Spokesperson, shares with us his take on these three enchantresses. Dean, also known as ‘The Hollywood Hair Guy’, boasts exceptional technical ability, an eye for detail and uniquely creative approach to styling, making him one of Hollywood’s top go-to hairstylists.Today, Dean devotes his time to his career as a full time Hollywood hair stylist creating red-carpet ready styles for his A-list clients.

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Michelle PfeifferMichelle’s look is classic and classy, just like her. Michelle’s hair is full of body and movement. It’s oh-so touchable! The cut suits her and she looks like she had an amazing blowout. This look can be done with the Instyler IQ in less than five minutes. Her signature blonde looks beautiful! The dress is nice, but I think it could be tailored a little bit more to fit her petite frame.

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Eva Green

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I love everything about this look! Her make-up is flawless and her hair is perfect! I love the severe side part, the intense shine, and rich colour that complements her skin! That finger wave will always be an iconic red-hot red carpet look, and very easy to achieve with your Instyler IQ! The neckline of her dress is unique, plus those hold cuffs are the perfect accessory to top off the look!

L O O K S

I like this look! The bangs are right on trend, the perfect length to showcase her gorgeous eyes and heart-shaped face, and are full and shiny, as if they were smoothed out with the Instyler IQ! I like how her hair has been pulled up to showcase the neckline of her dress. Make-up is on point! Lastly I love the black lace dress. It’s romantic and has an updated goth look, a huge trend this fall.

Bella Heathcote

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E D I T O R I A L


Cindy Horton Editor


Cindy HortonEditor







Turin/Italy


2nd Floor

Bree Street Studios


Cape Town

Ph: 086 000 9590

Fax: 021 423 7876



STAFFPublisher

Richard Fletcher


EditorCindy Horton




Lizel Jonker

[email protected]



F A S H I O N



17 Beauty Make-up

19 Beauty Women

21 Beauty Men







36 Metropolis

54 Olympic

62 Baroque















116 Agenda Calender


119 News Report

122 Product Reviews

127 Subscriptions

128 Stockists





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subtely sexy.



Timeless Romance




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Eva Green

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Bella Heathcote

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E D I T O R I A L


Cindy Horton Editor


Cindy HortonEditor







Turin/Italy


2nd Floor

Bree Street Studios


Cape Town

Ph: 086 000 9590

Fax: 021 423 7876



STAFFPublisher

Richard Fletcher


EditorCindy Horton




Lizel Jonker

[email protected]



F A S H I O N



17 Beauty Make-up

19 Beauty Women

21 Beauty Men







36 Metropolis

54 Olympic

62 Baroque















116 Agenda Calender


119 News Report

122 Product Reviews

127 Subscriptions

128 Stockists





Designing

WomenB



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At TimoWeiland,


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subtely sexy.



Timeless Romance




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Eva Green

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Bella Heathcote

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B E A U T Y

Bright

IdeaGet ready for a colour explosion this summer with the latest make-up trends of the season. Vibrant shades of green and

intense blues with a splash of fruity fragrances.


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Striking top notes of Grapefruit and Bergamot accentuate the floral accord of the seductive Chanel Coco Noir fragrance. O.P.I. Greenwich Village and Did It On Em nailpolish. Physicians Formula Shimmer Strips Custom Eye Enhancing Shadow and Liner in Pop Green Eyes. Get noticeable lips with Catrice Ultimate Shine 210 lipstick. Intense bIue Inglot AMC Eyeshadow 70. Create vibrant colour with Inglot Body Pigment Powder 214. Essie Fear Or Desire nail polish. A variety of summer scents in the Ralph Lauren Big Pony collection for women.

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011 312 5070 JHB • 021 551 3010 CT • 031 566 5765 DBN

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B E A U T Y

Natural

WomenNourish and care for your skin with innovative organic, natural

and caring formulations. Beneficial properties and heavenly scents of geranium, coconut and rose revitalise the senses.

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The Rose Geranium Balm Balm Face Balm moisturises and nourishes your face and neck or anywhere else that might need caring for. Create a sun-kissed complexion with Physicians Formula Bronze Booster Glow Boosting Sun Stones. The Bema Bio Anti Age Day Use cream lessens the effects of ageing. Deeply nourishing Badger Vanilla Coconut Everyday Body Moisturiser. Add a natural blush to the cheeks with Couleur Caramel Blush Powder. Moisturise and restore the skin with Badger Damascus Rose Beauty Balm. Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Jumbo Lash Mascara. Use Ahava Sun Protection Anti-ageing Facial Moisturiser to protect your skin this summer.

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Beautiful hair starts at the rootsMoroccanoil Scalp Treatments | 011 305 1600 | www.moroccanoil.com

B E A U T Y

Eco

ManThe eco man considers the products he uses to refresh and

rejuvenate his body and mind. Baobab oil and Vitamin E moisturise and nourish the skin for the summer months ahead.

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Ahava Time To Energize Soothing After-Shave Moisturizer treats skin irritations and sensitivities. Get a smooth clean shave with the Trevarno Shaving Soap from the Soothe & Calm collection. The Trevarno Men’s Facial Moisturiser is enriched with Vitamin E to nourish and protect the skin. Keep your lips moisturised this summer with Balm Balm’s multi-purpose lip balms. Protect your skin with Badger Broad Spectrum SPF 35 Sport Sunscreen. Replenish the skin’s protective layer after shaving with Bema Bio EcoMan After Shave. EcoProducts Baobab Oil richly nourishes and alleviates dry skin problems.

mens beauty 20th.indd 1 2012/11/26 1:14 PM

Skymind

dreams

Charlie Price is one of the most renowned American hairstylists in the world and an inspired dreamer. Discover his dreams in this exclusive collection for ESTETICA. by Sergi Bancells

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harlie Price is one of the best-known North American hairdressers in the world and, as such, a creative force that has left his

mark over recent years in the evolution of creative hair fashion bearing the hallmark ‘Made in the USA’. It should not surprise us if the admired Charlie, based in Denver (Colorado), was nominated twice for the North America Hairstylist of the Year and has already conquered the prestigious title of International Hairstylist of the Year, a brilliant honour. Moreover, as if to demonstrate the excellence of his photographic collections, Price took home NAHA awards more than 25 times, was a finalist in the worldwide AIPP Award competition, and also participated successfully in the Canadian Mirror Awards. One of the hairdressers with an unrivalled reputation in our times, Charlie Price is part of the exclusive international Style Masters team under the Revlon Professional brand name and was the hairdresser responsible for the backstage work of numerous New York Fashion Week shows, working with stylists like Matthew Williamson, Jason Wu, Catherine Malandrino, Jeremy Scott, Imitation of Christ, Peter Som, Benjamin Cho, and Charlotte Ronson, just to mention a few. Price also participated in a television episode of the famous Shear Genius 2, transmitted in 22 countries in all corners of the globe. For this collection, created exclusively for ESTETICA, the hairdresser was assisted by the artistic team of the Antoine du Chez salon and collaborated with photographer Duke Shoman, who shared his own dreams and Charlie’s vision to attain such a strong visual impact. The looks of Skymind highlight the artistic interpreta-tion of the new generation of fantastic colours and structures of hair that yearn to reach for the sky. The sections of hair were manually attached to the model’s natural hair to add both length, colour, and volume to what is then envisioned more as a mane than a coif. The model takes on an other-worldly appearance, some higher form of animal life or even a goddess. A shimmering universal beauty, tangible yet ethereal. Haunting, yet comforting. With this collection Charlie succeeds in elevating the art of hairdressing to a new visionary level.

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C R E A T I V I T Y

For this collection, Price recruited the renowned

photographer Duke Shoman, make-up artist Ryan Griffith,

and stylists Danora Fisher to share in his vision.

Charlie Price is known for the overwhelming creativity and elegance of his works.

Enchanting looks reach for the skiesof hair fashion.


he amazing Eternal City of Rome was transformed into the capital of the global hairdressing empire for the 21st Intercoiffure

World Congress. The event brought together 1000 of the most important hairdressers from over 56 countries where Intercoiffure Mondial is present, an association which is enjoying its best period ever. The historic centre of the Italian capital witnessed the excitement of 16 great hair fashion shows with participation by the elite of international hair dressing, all played out between Vatican City, St Peter’s Basilica and the Roman Forum. The global ICD delegation put on a great creative show – Italy, Taiwan, Germany, Chile, Austria, the Scandinavian countries, Bulgaria, Japan, America, Canada, Brazil and China were all represented. Magic flowed through the fingertips of two modern-day hairdressing icons – Vivienne Mackinder and Jean-Luc Minetti for Alexandre de Paris. Fresh and dynamic ideas simply oozed out of 36 young stylists from the Guillaume Foundation. Whereas the presentation of the shows by Klaus Peter Ochs (ICD Worldwide President) stood out for the ultramodern and sophisticated performance while the entertaining performances of the Intercoiffure Italia team helped seal this four-day event in Rome as a creative fervour of ideas, passion and renewed optimism for the industry. As a grand finale, there was a wonderful gala event in the legendary Cinecittà studios and an audience with Pope Benedetto XVI for the delegation, headed by Klaus Peter Ochs in his role as newly re-elected Worldwide President of ICD.

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Intercoiffure World Congress conquered Rome with a memorable event that brought 1000 renowned hairstylists from all five continents to the Eternal City. by Sergi Bancells

The exuberant creativity of themost talented stylists in the world

performed on the Roman stage.

Klaus Peter Ochs, Worldwide President of ICD, and Alberto Rossi, President of ICD Italia, kicked off the 21st Intercoiffure World Congress.

E V E N T S

An incredible 16 spectacular showspresented the visionary ideas of international hairdressing’s most elite.

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Prestigious global partners such as L’Oréal Professionneland P&G/Wella Professionals supported the event.

Roberto Pissimiglia, Publisher/Chief Editor of ESTETICA Network, received the Intercoiffure World Press Award.

Incredible structural looks brimming with creativity were the stars of the most applauded shows during the Intercoiffure World Congress.


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Each photograph represents a Chess piece and each print represents a stamp. The final prints are rendered

artworks which transcend boundaries of design.

Pony

Express

26 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

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V I S I O N

The concept and theme of the Chess pieces as stamps came from wanting to explore the parallels between the game of Chess and peoples alter egos

Fiona MacPherson

The collection expresses the importance of strategy and focus in life. Sometimes one can see the king in

another and the pawn in someone else.


Creative elements such as glass, steel wool and pasta were used to create texture

and interesting detail in the hairpieces.

V I S I O N

Creative freedom

The base of the hairstyles was created using oasis, chicken mess and cardboard.

Hairpieces were then built up around the base and various elements were added.

Delin Naude

The power of the pieces on the board dictates the mood and visual experience. Unique characters come to life to

live the full potential of their role in the game.

V I S I O N


Strong and bold shapes adorn heads, resembling traditional crowns and signifying their importance. All pieces fiercely competing for their existence.


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V I S I O N

Photographer: Fiona MacPhersonHair: Delin NaudeProducts: ghdDesigners: Shani Ahmed, Mark Day, Chris Koch and Theo KleynhansMake-up: Pia Cornelius

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All the main editionsof Estetica at a click!

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hair

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HE OLYMPICS HAVE FIRED UP OUR

ENERGY LEVELS AND SO WE’RE READY ONCE

AGAIN AT THE STARTING BLOCK, TO SPEED ALONG THE TRACKS OF EVERYDAY LIFE. IN THE CITY, FULL OF LIGHT AND SHADE, AND IN OUR DREAMS, BATHED IN GOLDEN SPLENDOUR. THE MUSICAL SOUNDTRACK? VIVALDI’S AUTUMN.

Le Olimpiadi ci hanno riempito il serbatoio di energia. Ora siamo pronte a ripartire, per correre veloci sulla pista del quotidiano. Nella vita metropolitana, fatta di luci e ombre, così come nei sogni, fatti di lussi dorati. Colonna sonora: L’autunno di Vivaldi.

Die Olympischen Spiele haben uns mit Energie versorgt. Jetzt sind wir bereit, uns in Bewegung zu setzen, um auf der Spur des Alltags zu rasen. Im Leben der Großstadt, aus Licht und Schatten gemacht, wie in Träumen, aus vergold etem Luxus. Soundtrack: Herbst von Vivaldi.

Les Jeux Olympiques nous ont fait faire le plein d’énergie. Nous voici prêts à repartir, à courir plus vite sur la piste de notre quotidien. Dans cette vie métropolitaine faite d’ombres et de lumières et dans les rêves faits de fastes dorés. Comme musique de fond : l’Automne de Vivaldi.

Los Juegos Olímpicos nos han llenado el depósito de energía. Ahora estamos listas para seguir, para correr rápidas en la pista de lo cotidiano. En la vida metropolitana, hecha de luces y sombras, como en los sueños, hechos de lujos dorados. Banda sonora: Otoño de Vivaldi.

TMetropolis

Metropolis

CONTRADICTIONS, FASCINATING. KALEIDOSCOPIC CITY, A MEETING POINT FOR EXTREMES. ABOVE GROUND, DAILY LIFE GOES ON. BELOW, UNDERGROUND LIFE BEATS AWAY. PUNK MIRAGES, COLOUR REVOLUTION, STYLE CHOICES. THE METROPOLIS IS AVANTGARDE.

Contraddizioni e fascinazioni. Cittàcaleidoscopio, punto di incontro di opposti. Sopra, la vita quotidiana scorre. Sotto, le culture underground pulsano. Miraggi punk, rivoluzioni cromatiche, affermazioni di stile. La metropoli è avantgarde.

Widersprüche und Faszinationen. CityKaleidoskop, ein Treffen der Gegensätze. Oben fließt das tägliche Leben unten pulsierende UntergrundKulturen. Punkiges Blendwerk, farbige Revolutionen, der Erfolg des Stils. Die Metropole ist Avantgarde.

Contradictions et fascinations. Citékaléidoscope, le lieu de rencontre des opposés. Audessus, la vie quotidienne qui suit son cours. Audessous, des cultures souterraines en ébullition. Mirages punk, révolutions chromatiques, affirmation des styles. La métropole est avantgarde.

Contradicciones y encanto. Ciudadcalidoscopio, punto de encuentro de los contrarios. Arriba, la vida cotidiana fluye. Abajo, palpitan las culturas underground. Espejismos punk, revoluciones cromáticas, estilos que se imponen. La metrópolis es vanguardia.

Metropolis Hair: Sándor Szél

for Sasa-Art Hungary Photo: Tamás Juhász

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 37

unDerground

LeftHair: Craig SmithPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Kylie O’TooleStyling: Emma Cotterrill

In this pageHair: Belinda and Carl KeeleyPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Christine GauntStyling: Vass Arvanitis


LeftHair: Dee Parker for WieselmannPhoto: Karla MajnaricMake-up: Sally Richardson

RightHair: Damien Carney Photo: Hama SandersMake-up: Walter OrbalStyling: Nikko Kefalas

New generation women. Drenched in metallic sensuality,

contemporary urban girls challenge anything less than the best, imposing

a “bigger is better” rule. The metropolis is seduction, version 2.0.

Femmine di nuova generazione. Intrise di sensualità metallica, le urban girl contemporanee sconfiggono le mezze misure e impongono il codice dell’extra. La metropoli è seduzione release 2.0.

Frauen der neuen Generation. Umhüllt von sinnlichem Metall, besiegt das zeitgenössische urbane Mädchen Halbheiten und setzt den Code des Besonderen durch. Die Metropole ist die Verführung der Ausgabe 2.0.

Femmes nouvelle génération. Débordant de sensualité métallique, les « urban girls » contemporaines abattent les demimesures et imposent le code de l’extra. La métropole est séduction version 2.0.

Una nueva generación de mujeres. Impregnadas de sensualidad metálica, las urban girl contempo ráneas desafían las medias medidas e imponen el código del extra. La metrópolis es seducción versión 2.0.


LeftHair: Antony Licata for MahoganyPhoto: Andrew OgilvyMake-up: Rosie ScottStyling: Chloe HollandProducts: Schwarzkopf Professional

RightHair: Kobi Bokshish for Intershape HairstylistsPhoto: Henryk LobaczewskiMake-up: Amelia AxtonStyling: Phoenix Keating


ATtraction

LeftHair: Damien Carney Photo: Hama SandersMake-up: Walter OrbalStyling: Nikko Kefalas

In this pageHair: Tracey Hughes for Mieka Hairdressing Photo: Amber TomsMake-up: Sue MarshallStyling: Kate CarnegieProducts: Redken


Unexpected equilibrium, created by full and empty volumes.

Verticalism. Over-the-top tension. Razors establish new hi-effect texture

standards and outlandish dimensions. The metropolis is archi-hairdressing.

Equilibri inaspettati fra pieni e vuoti. Verticalismi. Tensione all’oltre. I rasoi applicano nuovi standard per texture ad effetto e volumi rarefatti. La metropoli è archi-coiffure.

Unerwartete Balance zwischen voll und leer. Vertikalismus. Dazu Spannung. Der Rasierer setzt neue Maßstäbe für effektvolle Textur und ausgedünntes Volumen. Die Metropole ist der Spannungsbogen der Frisur.

Équilibres inattendus entre vides et pleins. Verticalités. Tendant à l’extrême. Les rasoirs appliquent de nouveaux standards en matière de textures aux effets et volumes raréfiés. La métropole est archi-coiffure.

Equilibrios inesperados entre llenos y vacíos. Verticalidades. Tensión que va más allá. Las cuchillas de afeitar generan nuevos standard para texturas con efecto y volúmenes enrarecidos. La metrópolis es archi-peinado.

LeftHair: Belinda and Carl KeeleyPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Christine GauntStyling: Vass Arvanitis

RightHair: Sanké Artistic TeamPhoto: Zeb Daemen for Sanké HairdressingMake-up: Eva PeetersStyling: Deborah Bloemen and Jorinde Gijbels


LeftHair: Dee Parkerfor WieselmannPhoto: Karla MajnaricMake-up: Sally Richardson

RightHair: Orea MaliàPhoto: D. Testoni

LeftHair: Kobi Bokshish for Intershape HairstylistsPhoto: Henryk LobaczewskiMake-up: Amelia Axton

RightHair: Antony Licata for MahoganyPhoto: Andrew OgilvyMake-up: Rosie ScottProducts: Schwarzkopf Professional

Elements of a dystopian future. Short hair, helmet-style.

Locks of hair, sharp as daggers. While in a parallel universe,

the same girls become videogame heroines. The metropolis is a gamble.

Suggestioni da futuro distopico. Tagli corti come elmi. Ciocche affilate come pugnali. Mentre in una realtà parallela, si diventa eroine da videogame. La metropoli è una scommessa.

Ideen aus einer dystopischen Zukunft. Kurzhaarschnitte wie Helme. Locken scharf wie Dolche. In einer parallelen Realität werden sie zu Heldinnen aus Videospielen. Die Metropole ist ein Glücksspiel.

Idées de futur dystopique. Des courts tels des casques. Des mèches affûtées comme des couteaux. Tandis qu’entre-temps, on se transforme en héroïnes de jeux vidéo. La métropole est challenge.

Sugestiones de futuro distópico. Cortes cortos como yelmos. Mechones afilados como puñales. Si bien, en una realidad paralela, nos transforma-mos en heroínas de un videojuego. La metrópolis es una apuesta.


Futuristic

LeftHair: Craig SmithPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Kylie O’TooleStyling: Emma Cotterrill

In this pageHair and make-up: I Sargassi Artistic TeamPhoto: Emanuele Menduni, Francesco Berardinelli and Alessandra PrimoProducts: L’Oréal Professionnel


lym pi c

OLYMPIC. UNFLAPPABLE. INVINCIBLE. THIS IS HOW WE FELT AS THE GAMES DREW TO A CLOSE. READY TO FACE DAILY LIFE WITH AN ADDED INJECTION OF ENERGY,LIKE GREEK GODDESSES, COMPETITIVE AND CHALLENGING, AS UNIQUE AS THE NATIONAL FLAG. OLYMPIC HAIR FOR OLYMPIC WOMEN.

Olimpico. Imperturbabile. Invincibile. È lo spirito che ci regalano i Giochi appena conclusi. Per affrontare il quotidiano con grinta belle come dee greche, competitive come una sfida, uniche comela bandiera nazionale. Olympic hair per olympic women.

Olympisch. Unbeirrt. Unbesiegbar. Durchdrungen vom Geist der eben erst beendeten Spiele. Um das Alltägliche mit der Schönheit griechischer Göttinnen zu bekämpfen, als eine Herausforderung, einzigartig wie die Nationalflagge. Olympische Frisuren für olympische Frauen.

Olympique. Imperturbable. Invincible. Voici l’état d’esprit que nous ont laissés les JO qui viennent de se terminer. Pour affronter le quotidien avec du tonus, belles comme des déesses grecques, compétitives comme un défi, uniques comme le drapeau national. Coiffure olympique pour des women olympiques.

Olímpico. Imperturbable. Invencible. Es el espíritu que nos ofrecen los Juegos que acaban de terminar. Para afrontar la cotidianidad con determinación, hermosas como diosas griegas, como un desafío competitivo, únicas como la bandera nacional. Olympic hair para olympic women.

hair

LeftHair: Tim Hartley for ID Hair and Ego ProfessionalPhoto: Sidsel ClementMake-up: Susan Voss-Redfern

RightInternational CreativeDirection: Mark HayesHair: Sassoon International Creative TeamPhoto: John AkehurstMake-up: Petros Petrohilos


LeftHair: Xavier ScordoPhoto: Jules Egger

RightHair: Sherri Jessee for RuskMake-up: Sherri Jessee for PixiPhoto: Brad Lovell

LeftHair: Sherri Jessee for RuskMake-up: Sherri Jessee for Pixi Photo: Brad Lovell

RightInternational Creative Direction: Mark HayesHair: Sassoon International Creative TeamPhoto: John AkehurstMake-up: Petros Petrohilos

LeftHair: Xavier ScordoPhoto: Jules Egger

RightHair: Sherri Jessee for RuskMake-up: Sherri Jessee for PixiPhoto: Brad Lovell

Opulent et voluptueux.Idées poudrées, dérobéesaux « Liaisons Dangereuses ».Aussi intrigant qu’avant, le baroque actuel nous parlede luxes extravagants et de femmes mystérieuses. Qui,dans la rondeur de courts enveloppants et de cheveux relevés et modelés, racontent toute leur féminité.

Opulento y voluptuoso. Sugestivos maquillajes enpolvo robados a “Les Liaisons Dangereuses”. Intrigante como un tiempo, el Barroco de hoy habla de pródigos lujos y mujeres misteriosas. Que en las redondeces de envolventes cortos y recogidos torneados cuentan toda su feminidad.

OPULENT AND VOLUPTUOUS. POWDERED FANTASIES STOLEN FROM ‘LES LIAISONS DANGEREUSES’.AS INTRIGUING AS AT THAT TIME, TODAY’S BAROQUE THEME CONJURES UP FANCY LUXURY AND MYSTERIOUS WOMEN WHO SHOW OFF THEIR FEMININITY IN THEIR SHORT CURVED HAIRSTYLES AND SHAPELY UP-DO’S.

Opulento e voluttuoso. Suggestioni cipriate rubate a “Les Liaisons Dangereuses”. Intrigante come allora, il Barocco di oggi ci parla di lussi sfarzosi e di donne misteriose. Che nelle rotondità di corti avvolgenti e raccolti torniti raccontano tutta la loro femminilità.

Opulent und sinnlich. Pudrige Phantasien, gestohlen von„Les Liaisons Dangereuses“. Intrigant wie damals, präsentiert sich der Barock von heute mit extravagantem Luxus und geheimnisvollen Frauen.Mit ihren hinreissenden und wohlgeformten Rundungen zeigen die Kurzhaarschnitteall ihre Weiblichkeit.

Hair: The Racoon Artistic TeamPhoto: John RawsonMake-up: Jo SugarStyling: Jo Toronka


LeftHair: The Racoon Artistic TeamPhoto: John RawsonMake-up: Jo SugarStyling: Jo Toronka

RightHair: Wilfrid KarloffPhoto: Hugo JuillardMake-up: Maureen FriedstedtStyling: Sophie Guyot


ueens today, queens of yesterday. New Elizabeth’s dressed

in large, graceful outfits. Ready to point out their favourite,

in search of their beloved Orlando.

Regine di oggi, regine di ieri. Novelle Elisabette si vestono di volume e grazia. Pronte a indicare con il dito il loro ultimo favorito, alla ricerca del loro amato Orlando.

Königinnen von heute, Königinnen von gestern. Die neue Elisabeth kleidet sich in Volumen und Anmut. Bereit, um mit dem Finger auf ihren neuesten Favoriten zu deuten, auf der Suche nach ihrem geliebten Orlando.Q

LeftHair: Anne Veck for

Anne Veck SalonsPhoto: Barry Jeffery

Make-up: Elizabeth RitaStyling: Kate Jeffery

RightHair: Wilfrid Karloff

Photo: Hugo JuillardMake-up: Maureen Friedstedt

Styling: Sophie Guyot

Reines d’aujourd’hui, reines d’hier. Les nouvelles Élisabeth se parent de volume et de grâce. Prêtes à jeter leur dévolu sur leur dernier favori, à la recherche de leur Orlando bien-aimé.

Reinas de hoy, reinas de ayer. Nuevas Elisabeth se visten de volumen y gracia. Listas para indicar con el dedo su último favorito, en busca de su amado Orlando.


LeftHair: Frank Apostolopoulos for Biba Salons and AcademyPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Kylie O’TooleStyling: Leticia Dare

RightHair: Beck Carroll forJo Bellamy HairdressersPhoto: Kris BaumMake-up: Victoria Baronand Casey GoreStyling: Beck Carrolland Jessica Kirkby

LeftHair: The Racoon Artistic TeamPhoto: John RawsonMake-up: Jo SugarStyling: Jo Toronka

RightHair: Salvo Filetti forCompagnia della BellezzaPhoto: Antonio Di MariaMake-up: Teresa Musarraand Antonio Giuffrida

La seduzione è barocca. Onde morbide, trecce alternate a forcine, biondi caldi. Un omaggio allo stile Moyenne di Sua Maestà Maria Antonietta, a metà tra i lussi Rococò e i rigori del Neoclassicismo.

Die Verführung ist barock. Sanfte Wellen, Zöpfe im Wechsel mit Haarnadeln, heiße Blondinen. Eine Hommage an den Stil Ihrer Majestät Marie Antoinette, eine Mischung aus dem Luxus des Rokoko und der Strenge des Klassizismus.

La séduction est baroque. Douces vagues, alternance de tresses et d’épingles, blonds chauds. Un hommage au style mi-long de sa Majesté Marie-Antoinette, à mi-chemin entre luxes rococo et rigueurs néo-classiques.

La seducción es barroca. Ondas suaves, trenzas que se alternan a horquillas, rubios cálidos. Un homenaje al estilo Medieval de Su Majestad María Antonieta, a medio camino entre los lujos del Rococó y el rigor del Neoclasicismo.

eduction is Baroque. Soft waves, pin-held weaved plaits, warm blondes.

In homage to Queen Marie Antoinette’s ‘Moyen’ style, midway between

Rococo luxury and Neoclassical severity.

S

LeftHair and make-up: Raffel PagesPhoto: David Arnal

RightHair: Salvo Filetti for Compagnia della BellezzaPhoto: Antonio Di MariaMake-up: Teresa Musarraand Antonio Giuffrida

ugue and counterpoint. The Baroque musical virtuosi

are like lace and needlework, made up of transparency and clearness in magical combinations.

Hair takes up the rhythm, opting for wide volumes and dense braids.

F

Fuga e contrappunto.I virtuosismi della musica barocca sono come pizzie trine, fatti di trasparenze in magiche combinazioni. E i capelli si abbandonano al ritmo, cercando ampi volumi e intrecci serrati.

Fuge und Kontrapunkt.Die Virtuosität der Barockmusik ist wie Spitzen und Bordüren,mit zarter Transparenz in magischen Kombina-tionen. Und die Haare fliessen im Rhythmus, suchen großes Volumen und enge Bindungen.

Fugue et contrepoint.Les virtuoses de la musique baroque sont comme des dentelles et broderies, faites de transparences mélangées avec magie. Et les cheveux s’abandonnent au rythme, en cherchant de vastes volumes et des cheveux savamment serrés.

Fuga y contrapunto. Los virtuosismos de la música barroca son como los encajes y puntillas, hechos con transparencias en mágicas combinaciones. Y los cabellos se abandonan al ritmo, en busca de grandes volúmenesy densas tramas.

LeftHair: Lisette Veldink @ Pro-SoloPhoto: Hans MooijerMake-up: Angelique StapelbroekStyling: Pedro Dias

RightHair and make-up: Raffel PagesPhoto: David Arnal



RightHair: Frank Apostolopoulosfor Biba Salons and AcademyPhoto: Andrew O’TooleMake-up: Kylie O’TooleStyling: Leticia Dare


Sontuosità e volume. Come nei capolavori dello Juvarra, anche nella coiffure le strutture imponenti diventano soffici grazie a texture lievi. In una danza di pieni e vuoti dall’equilibrio perfetto.

Üppigkeit und Volumen. Wie in den Meisterwerken von Juvarra, verkörpert auch die imposante Frisur weiche Grazie und sanfte Textur. In einem Wechselspiel von Leere und Fülle herrscht perfektes Gleichgewicht.

Somptuosité et volume. Comme dans les chefs d’œuvre de Juvarra, les coiffures imposantes se font légères grâce aux fines textures. Devenant ainsi une danse de vides et de pleins parfaitement équilibrés.

Suntuosidad y volumen. Como en las obras maestras de Juvarra, también en la peluquería las estructuras imponentes se suavizan gracias a la ligereza de las texturas. En una danza de llenos y vacíos en perfecto equilibrio.S plendour and volume. Just like Juvarra’s masterpieces, hairdressing

too sees stately structures softening their lines, thanks to light texture.

In a ballet of gaps and substance for perfect balance.

Hair: Wilfrid KarloffPhoto: Hugo JuillardMake-up: Maureen FriedstedtStyling: Sophie Guyot


RightHair: Jason KearnsPhoto: Richard DuboisMake-up: Hanoch Drori

HE BOOM IN THE NATURAL, ORGANIC AND ECO-FRIENDLY INDUSTRY HAS SIGNALLED A SHIFT IN THE PRODUCTION, MARKETING AND MANUFACTURING OF BEAUTY AND HAIR PRODUCTS. IN

THIS FEATURE WE DISCOVER WHAT ALTERNATIVES ARE AVAILABLE AND WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR. ESTETICA SA ALSO GAINS INSIGHT INTO THE STEPS COMPANIES WITHIN THE INDUSTRY HAVE

TAKEN TO DECREASE THEIR IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT. T

Going Green

hether you believe that beauty exists as a Pythagorean equation

or as an eternal and immutable concept as defined by Plato, beauty in all its varied definitions is central to the lives of most women. This is not a recent trend. According to www.edwardianpromenade.com, for example, women in the Victorian era used to drip highly toxic belladonna drops in their eyes to dilate the pupils, which apparently made men at the time all racy. It was a rather dangerous pursuit and it appears that not much has changed.Today, if the advertisements are to be believed, a woman cannot be thin enough, rich enough or beautiful enough. So intense is the drive for physical beauty that extreme measures are taken. Between 1997 and 2011, for example, there was a 340 percent increase in tummy tucks and a percent increase in breast-lift surgery in the United States alone. Furthermore, a total of 101 176

Saving

faceWA deeper look is

taken into the world of

cosmetics, the ingredients that

go into them and where the

concept of painting our

faces originates from.

breast augmentation surgeries were performed in 1997 in that country, compared to 316 848 in 2011. While this form of beautification may seem extreme, using cosmetics may actually be more so, though in a far more worrying manner and the industry is only getting bigger. In the United Kingdom, sales of cosmetics even showed an increase during the tail end of the recession. Experts say that if women cannot afford their fashion fix, then cosmetics are the next best thing. So much so, that global sales of cosmetics reached R340-billion in 2009, up 3 percent from 2008.Research performed by Dr Maryanne Fischer, an Associate Professor at St Mary’s University in Canada, indicates that women spend thousands on cosmetics, anti-ageing treatments, gym memberships, teeth bleaching and hair styling in order to compete with other women for the “good man”.So, clearly vanity is commonplace

E D I T O R I A L


E D I T O R I A L

and it has become easy to be vain and achieve ‘beauty’ with the range of products available to women (and men). Ironically, men prefer women who wear less make-up and so it appears that all this colouring is actually war paint for a battle against the same sex. Although this has not been scientifically proven in peer-reviewed experiments, informal surveys by various writers and websites confirm this. One survey in the US, for example, said that up to 75 percent of American men prefer women with less make-up or a fresh-faced natural look; while a British poll of 10 000 men had similar results, at 68 percent. So why do we apply products containing animal ingredients and toxic chemicals to our faces? The answer seems to be clever marketing – the kind of ads that make you think that if you do not have rosy cheeks or lashes that curl into forever, then you are incomplete and a personal failure. A little absurd isn’t it?

Yet it happens… even in South Africa. Euromonitor’s research indicates that women in South Africa look for value in their products, for example, lipstick’s that offer both colour and moisturising are more popular than colour-only options. Revlon is the most popular brand of cosmetics in South Africa and secured 37 percent of the market in 2010. It is followed in terms of company share by L’Oréal with its L’Oréal Paris and Maybelline brands, and by Coty Inc., with its Rimmel brand, with both having a 14 percent share.

SAFETY FIRSTUnsurprisingly, placating our vanity comes at a cost, which starts with the ingredients inside cosmetics, most of which contain a range of toxic chemicals, heavy metals and animal ingredients – many of which are absorbed into the body. In fact, the average make-up wearing woman could absorb more than 2kg of this stuff each year. This is because the skin is the body’s largest organ and absorbs, often straight into the bloodstream, a lot

of what we put onto it.The Environmental Working Group (EWG) in the United States reports that it is a myth that if a product is on a retailer’s shelf, it must be safe because it has been through a system of checks and balances.In fact, the EWG reports that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to test products for safety and does not review or approve the vast majority of products or ingredients before they go on to the market. The agency reviews only certain colour additives and active ingredients in cosmetics classified as “over-the-counter drugs”. The idea that self-regulation works is also untrue. In it’s 30 year history, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (the cosmetic industry’s own regulation body in the US), has assessed less than 20 percent of cosmetic ingredients, and found only 11 ingredients to be unsafe. The CIR’s recommendations are also not binding on a company. We seem to trust the United States and turn to the country for guidance, regulations and frameworks. Did you know that more than 500 products sold in that country contain ingredients banned in cosmetics in Japan, Canada and/or the European Union? Nearly 100

It appears that all this colouring is actually war paint for a battle against the same sex.


saving face.indd 3 2012/11/21 5:59 PM

products contain ingredients considered unsafe by the International Fragrance Association and 61 percent of lipstick brands tested by the EWG contained residues of lead.In South Africa, we have our own self regulatory system of cosmetics control, the Cosmetics Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA). According to its website, the CFTA is “the industry’s voice committed to maintaining the high quality and safety of cosmetic products. By guiding members on the self-regulatory codes of practice and standards, the CTFA provides an environment that allows the South African cosmetic industry to flourish.” The key here is that the code is one of self-regulation. According to the association, this is a very powerful form of regulation as the industry itself becomes the watchdog. The association believes that competition between brands will cause this regulation. In terms of labelling, the Advertising Standards Authority has an extensive list of regulations on its website (www.asasa.org), but no reference for make-up was found. On the CTFA website, however, Sally Gnodde, the head of the

association, wrote on June 5, 2012, that “by virtue of the shape and size of some product packaging, labelling is precluded. The consumer is advised to check for the ingredients list and further information about the product on a tag attached to the product or a notice which is usually in immediate proximity to the point where the product is displayed for sale.” No tag or notice was found in any store visited and the CTFA did not respond to our questions regarding this matter.

WHAT’S IN YOUR WAR PAINT?Safe Cosmetics has applied a list of ingredients found in cosmetics that are of concern:Petrolatum, mineral oil, propylene glycol: these are byproducts of the petrochemical industry. The latter is also an ingredient in anti-freeze. Would you apply petrol or diesel to your face? These products are not

much different and most are carcinogenic. 1.4-Dioxane: a byproduct of the petrochemical manufacturing process. This ingredient will not be listed on packaging because it is a byproduct, and as such evades labelling laws. The real threat comes with repeated exposure as it is a common ingredient in other products that contain sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulphate. It has been shown to readily penetrate the skin. Polyethylene glycols form part of these byproducts and are increasingly linked with breast cancer. They are often included in lipstick and mascara formulations. Parabens (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl-): products with a longer shelf life are generally laced with parabens as they are excellent preservatives. Parabens are common mimickers of oestrogen and increased levels of these are linked with increased incidences of breast cancers. Heavy metals: these include lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium, aluminium and iron. These are of serious concern. The EWG10 found over 650 products listed in their Skin Deep list that were contaminated with lead, including foundation, nail colours, lipsticks and even sunscreen. They also found that several other ingredients such as cottonseed oils and rice derivatives contained lead and mercury as contaminants. Safe Cosmetics reports that some metals serve as colourants. For instance, chromium is used as a colourant, and iron oxides are

common colourants in eye shadows, blushes and concealers. Some aluminium compounds are colourants in lip glosses, lipsticks and nail polishes. In addition, some colour additives may be contaminated by heavy metals, such as D&C Red 6, which can be contaminated by arsenic, lead and mercury. The EWG10 found arsenic in 641 cosmetic products tested and mercury in some brands of mascara. Metals serve various functions in the body. For instance, iron is necessary for blood oxygenation. However, at higher accumulations, metals may have negative effects. Cancerous breast biopsies show higher accumulations of iron, nickel, chromium, zinc, cadmium, mercury and lead than non-cancerous biopsies, and several metals act like oestrogen in the presence of some breast cancer cells. Nitrosamines: these are formed when proteins are used together with preservatives that can break down into nitrates. The protein and preservative recombine to form nitrosamines. They are therefore

regarded as an impurity and are common in mascara and concealer. The inadvertent creation of this carcinogenic compound can add a whole new challenge for consumers reading labels for safety, since nitrosamines do not appear on the label. They also disrupt hormone action in small doses and studies have also linked nitrosamines to developmental or reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and systemic toxicity. They are banned in Canada.Palm oil: this ingredient has been regularly covered in magazines and while it is not toxic to us, it is damaging to the environment and a host of animals and cultures. Inthusiasm and Woolworths are two companies in South Africa that purchase sustainable palm oil.

ANIMAL INGREDIENTS

Stearic acid: this fatty acid, harvested from animal fat, goes by many names but if the ingredient has “stear” included in the name, it is animal-based unless stated that it is plant-derived. Glycerin: an alcohol generally derived from the saponification of animal fats is another risk. However, it is also sourced from

vegetable fats so be sure to check for details. The chances are that both glycerin and stearic acid are likely to be sourced as byproducts of the slaughterhouse industry.Octyl stearate, cochineal, and carmine: the Vegetarian Society in the United Kingdom states that octyl stearate and cochineal/carmine (made from crushed beetles and commonly found in lipsticks) should be of concern for vegans and vegetarians. Silk, beeswax and lanolin: lanolin comes from sheep’s wool. These products are byproducts of animals in your colour cosmetics. 19 CI77267 (BONE CHARCOAL) AND CI77268:1 (BLACK BONE CHARCOAL): colourants sourced from animal bones.

MINERAL MATTERS Mineral make-up is marketed as a safer alternative to mainstream cosmetics. Mineral make-up is a cosmetic made of several finely ground minerals, mixed with a base such as cocoa butter. It is sold in powdered and liquid forms. It is not necessarily cruelty-free or organic, unless so specified. The advent of mineral make-up seems to have been driven by a need to reduce the chemical load of regular products, and to reduce

Mineral make-up is marketed as a safer alternative to mainstream cosmetics.


E D I T O R I A L

irritancy and side-effects. At the outset, these ranges were powder-based, which reduced the need for preservatives and other noxious additives. However, the safety of these products is not entirely clear. Still, the mineral make-up market in the US is growing rapidly and sales of mineral make-up from prestige brands totaled R1.5-billion in 2011, representing a total of 6 percent of the cosmetics sold in the US. While mineral make-up is hyped to be the next best thing to regular cosmetics, all make-up is really mineral make-up, with the same mineral ingredients, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica and iron oxides found in conventional products. In a peer-reviewed article on WebMD, published in June 2011, it is argued that what makes mineral make-up different from traditional make-up is not the ingredients it contains, but rather what is left out: preservatives, parabens, mineral oil, chemical dyes, and fragrances.

CLEOPATRACleopatra is enshrined as a captivating beauty and that belief was cemented by Elizabeth Taylor’s portrayal of her in the iconic 1963 film with Richard Burton as Marc Anthony. Coupled with the Nefertiti bust, women in Ancient Egypt are inextricably linked to beauty. Ancient Egyptians believed that the beautiful were blessed by their gods and so it was very important for those who could afford it to be beautiful, but what did they use for make-up? Eye shadows of the day came from a variety of sources, most of them unsafe and laden with lead and mercury. Minerals were ground with burnt almonds to create brown eye shadows and green copper ore was beaten and sifted for this purpose. Saffron doubled up as a yellow eye colour and strong red colours were made from carminic acid extracted from the crushed bodies of the cochineal insect.

Cleopatra’s eye shadow was applied over the entire eye lid from eyebrow to lid rim. Eyelinermade from lead-based kohl was applied with warm enamel sticks and was used to line the entire circumference of the eye. She would have used a foundation make-up with a wax base which was formed from animal fats and a white lead called ceruse. The foundation would be applied to her face and neck, giving her the look of a majestic statue. More whitening was applied to the face with a cloth pad dabbed in some ground white chalk. Cheeks were blushed with a red powder which could have come from many sources, such as crushed cochineal beetles and local red clay. Lips were stained red with a mixture of red clay, a sticky wine residue, mashed berries and crushed insects, including ants.

Information supplied by Ethical Living, www.ethnicalliving.co.za

uma’s dedication to making a smaller impact on the earth

inspired the inception of the ‘Bring Me Back’ programme. Taking what would normally be trash, and breathing new life into it. The programme, which is run in cooperation with global recycling company I:CO, aims at encouraging the recycling and re-usability of sports lifestyle products among consumers, by providing a convenient and simple process where consumers bring used shoes, clothing and accessories from any manufacturer to a Puma Store and deposit them in the designated ‘Bring Me Back’ bins.Items are then re-used, up-cycled for industrial use, or recycled and turned into new raw materials to produce new products. This initiative assists in protecting the environment, aiming to reduce waste by recycling used products

Detailed instructions on how to dispose of your unwanted shoes and clothing can be found on the Puma website.

to create new ones, which is one step closer to the long-term goal of transitioning to a closed cycle loop for materials usage.“As part of our mission to become the most desirable and sustainable sports lifestyle company in the world, we are constantly working on solutions that aim at reducing the environmental impact that Puma as a company leaves behind on our planet,” said Franz Koch, CEO of Puma. “With our ‘Bring Me Back’ programme, we are pleased to target, for the first time ever, the massive amounts of waste sports lifestyle products leave behind at their end-of-life phase when consumers dispose them and they end up on landfills or in waste incineration plants.”The ‘Bring Me Back’ programme was launched in October at Puma stores throughout Johannesburg, Cape Town and Pretoria.

Sports lifestyle brand Puma

launches a recycling

initiative within their stores to

help reduce waste by

ridding landfills of sports apparel.

Bring

Me BackP

I N I T I A T I V E

Bins can be found in Puma stores thoughout the country


STETICA SA chats to two local stylists, Alwyn van Wyk and David

Gillson, to find out what alternatives they stock and how they are becoming more ‘green’ in their salons. How have you implemented eco-friendly systems within your salon?

David Gillson: Master Stylist and Partner at Carlton Hair, Johannesburg

I personally always try and look after the environment by recycling, drive a Prius and try to instill it in the salons as well. We use Davines and [comfort zone], a formaldehyde free Brazilian treatment as well as products which are free of parabens and have just launched our ammonia-free colour in salon.

Alwyn van Wyk, Fugo Salon owner, JohannesburgFor the last three years we have had regular conversations with our team to shape their behavior and attitude toward sustainable business practices. We started small, using 250ml water dispensers to emulsify and rinse our client’s hair saving approximately 21L of water per colour. We then installed aerators in all our basin taps reducing our water flow from 13L to 7L a minute. We installed a gas geyser and permanently set our water temperature at 38°C to eliminate time spent getting the right temperature, saving another 21L per shampoo. Our recycling programme, however challenging at times, is a part of our efforts to run a sustainable business. Our next project is to change all our lighting to low voltage LED lighting to reduce both our energy consumption and the ambient temperature of the salon, further

The demand for eco-friendly products is on

the rise and consumers

expect to have the option to choose

a ‘greener’ alternative when

purchasing products.

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reducing the burden on our air conditioning system. We have already installed motion sensors in our low traffic areas so that the lighting in those areas are only activated when there is movement in those areas.

What organic or environmentally-friendly products do you use or retail?

David Gillson, Master Stylist and

Partner at Carlton Hair, JohannesburgCarlton Hair has decided to use a brand, Davines, which cares for the environment and shares our values. Davines uses recyclable, reusable containers, is part of the Lifegate Energy project in Italy as well as the Lifegate Zero Impact initiative. Davines ensures that we only use quality ingredients and often from natural sources. All products are 100 percent safe, never tested on animals and our slogan is in fact, Sustainable Beauty. Davines’ sister company, [comfort zone] skincare, is also part of this and has an entire range which is Ecocert approved! Davines has also just brought out an ammonia-free colour called A New Colour. This really sees us moving with the trends, using technology wisely and ensuring that we do everything possible to help the environment.

Alwyn van Wyk, Fugo Salon owner, JohannesburgYes, definitely. The increased media awareness, especially through social media and websites dedicated to sustainability has resulted in a much more informed consumer. It is not just sustainability, but also a search for safer personal care products.

How important is it for you as a business to be able to offer your clients a ‘greener’ alternative?

David Gillson, Master Stylist and Partner at Carlton Hair, JohannesburgIt is very important. Times are changing and we need to stay current and be mindful. It’s also a great competitive edge. Overseas, everyone is extremely conscience of products and Davines understands this.

Alwyn van Wyk, Fugo Salon owner, JohannesburgIt is always our intention to respond in the most relevant way to the needs of our clients and to be responsible in the way we conduct our business. Product advancement in these alternative products now allow us to not have to compromise on results in order to use a safer more sustainable product. It is not a choice for us, it is the only way to be relevant as a business.

Alwyn van Wyk, Fugo Salon owner, JohannesburgWe currently offer Pureology and Evo products.

What is your favourite product?

David Gillson, Master Stylist and Partner at Carlton Hair, JohannesburgI love so many of the Davines products, but an absolute must for me is the Davines OI Oil. It’s amazing and is also so simplistically and beautifully packaged.

Alwyn van Wyk, Fugo Salon owner, JohannesburgEvo Haze Styling Powder is the most amazing finishing product. Of all the styling powders I have ever used, this is by far the best.

Has the demand for these products increased among your clients, and if so, where does it stem from?

David Gillson, Master Stylist and Partner at Carlton Hair, JohannesburgYes, I always try and promote products which are good for your hair. We are all conscience of what we are consuming (organically) and how we are look after the environment, so why not watch what you are using on your hair and body too. I always recommend what I use and make sure that the product is well suited to the client’s need. The clients all want products that work effectively and this is why I recommend the OI Oil.


Pastel tones and vibrant colour is the latest craze in hair colour trends. With celebrities such as

Selena Gomez, Kate Bosworth and Demi Lovato all adding a hint of pink, streak of purple or a splash of blue to their hair. Have you ever dreamed of following this funky trend of highlighting your hair with fun bright colours, but don’t have the nerve?

Colorsmash™ is the answer to all your summer hair fashion woes! This innovative product is the perfect way to add a sassy pop of colour to your hair without the commitment of dye.

A must have retail product available in the following nine vivid colours; Atomic Yellow, Je Ne Sais Quoi, Electric Beat, Rags to Riches, So Jaded, Firecracker, St Martini, Tango Mango, Oh La Lavender. and there is a colour for every occasion, mood and outfit!

Some stylists try to use artist pastels (chalk) to create this effect. These pastels were not made for use on the hair, and contain cadmium, cobalt, titanium dioxide and other heavy metals which are highly toxic if inhaled or absorbed through the skin. Furthermore, they dry out the hair and can be difficult to wash out. Colorsmash™ is formulated specifically for hair shadowing and contains no chemicals.

Product application:• Chooseyourdesiredcolourandselectasectionof hair you would like to transform.• Spraythesectionwithaheatprotectorbefore smashing it with colour.• PutthehairontotheColorsmash™potandrub/ slide the section between your finger and the pot. Continue until the desired intensity of colour is achieved.• Sealthecolourwithacurlingtongorflatironand spray with hairspray.• Voila!• Whenyouaredonesportingyoursassystreaks, simply wash it out.

Have fun this summer with Colorsmash™!

Colorsmash™, think eyeshadow for

the hair.

For more information:Oro Bianco Distributors

Tel: + 27 32 586 1046Email: [email protected]: www.orobianco.co.za

coloursmash-DPS.indd 2 2012/11/26 1:19 PM

A D V E R T O R I A L

Smash it on, seal it with spray, wash it out!


INGREDIENTS: Talc (mineral): An anti-caking agent and improves the feel of the product.Mica (mineral): Adds shine, is heat

resistant and is a natural silicate providing a sleek shimmer to any

powder based product.Dimethicone (silicone based

polymer): Humidity resistant, reduces static electricity and gives you a good wet and dry combing. The film former

coats the hair to enable a comb to move through the hair easily, improving the

feel and softness of the hair.Magnesium Stereate (part mineral): Used for its lubricating properties. Helps

keep emulsions from separating.Silica (mineral): Promotes healthy hair.

Silver Phosphate: Used for its anti-bacterial properties, is mineral

based, contains no chemicals and is safe for hair use.

coloursmash-DPS.indd 3 2012/11/26 1:19 PM

e’s the most famous young hairdresser in the world. At just 25 years

old, French stylist Charlie Le Mindu is a star in the fashion world, darling of the press, and hairstylist/accomplice to mega pop star Lady Gaga.But who is Charlie Le Mindu?Difficult question – I’m lots of things all at the same time. I’ve been influenced by many cultures and different people. I’ve lived in lots of different places – Germany, France, England… in fact, I’m not sure who I really am or where I come from. I think that of all the definitions of me that I’ve heard, the one I like most is “enfant terrible” because I believe

I’ll continue to be a kid even when I’m 80. I do only what I want to do, not what other people want or expect me to do.How did your passion for the hair industry come about?I think it all started when I was six.I spent hours cutting hair on Barbie dolls. I don’t remember if I wanted to be a hairdresser already but I certainly played with hair all the time. At the age of 13, I started working in a salon. After attending a hairdressing academy, obviously, which did me good because even though I was convinced that school was a terrible thing, I still wanted to learn

H

We interviewed the enfant terrible who, at the tender

age of 25, is personal hairstylist to Lady Gaga

and boasts his own L’Oréal Professionnel.

by Sergi Bancells

Up-close with

Le Mindu


the traditional techniques of hairdressing. Also, my first salon was in the country, not a big city, so I learnt to put in rollers, do a perm… things that might seem really boring, but were useful for me because I knew I was learning what I needed to know if I was to become a good hairdresser. That’s just what I needed.So, you needed to know the rules… before you could rightfully break them?Exactly! Even though I didn’t think that way when I was a kid, as time passed I started to understand that it was necessary to know the classic techniques of hairdressing

if I wanted to let rip afterwards… and that’s exactly what I’ve done in my career. Doing things differently, you can still go crazy … but the result is not necessarily something you can be proud of!You started in Burdeus, then Berlin… you’ve never stayed in one place very long, have you?I’ve been…. [he thinks a little]. No, to be honest, you’re right – I’ve never stayed long in the same place [laughing]. What’s sure is that I was too naughty and they kicked me out of the salons I worked in. I was really young and at the time I didn’t care much.Those who know you say you love hairspray…It’s true! I couldn’t live without it! I don’t know why, but for me it’s been part of my life since I was a boy. You know the period of Marie Antoinette at the court of Versailles, when the nobles never washed and just doused themselves in perfume? Well, I reckon I could do just the same with hairspray – just love that smell!How did you start working with L’Oréal Professionnel? The first thing we did together was the looks of ‘Super Style Heroes’,

“I do only what I want to do, not what other people want or expect me to do.”

Up-close with

Le Mindu

Pure Charlie Le Mindu; from the catwalk to the new design of Mademoiselle hairspray, via Lady Gaga’s penchant for hair fashion.

Mademoiselle Infinium, the

hairspray redesigned by

Charlie Le Mindu for L’Oréal

Professional

G A L L E R Y

the same time which are totally unconnected with the company and are totally different... but this is something that allows me to explore everything about hair and hairdressing, from the most radical ideas to the most commercial.Extensions are fundamental in your work. When did you start to treat hair as a material?It all started in Berlin, where I had truly incredible clients who allowed me to give them really ‘big hair’. The moment arrived where I felt frustrated because I couldn’t

Lady Gaga wore this magnetic wig

with lips in her famous Bad

Romance video.

Le Mindu is also responsible for the

looks in Super Style Heroes by L’Oréal

Professionnel.

with fabulous results. Then they called me, along with Odile Gilbert, Peter Gray and Malcolm Edwards to work on the launch of La Maison Parisienne de la Coiffure. Each of us had a different project... and the truth is, they couldn’t have given me a more suitable one – the creation of my own hairspray!What’s the concept behind a hairspray like Mademoiselle Infinium?My main goal was to create a spray that women would keepin their own bathrooms, because even though there are already some very good supermarket hairsprays that exist already, usually the cans are not so attractive.... I love the new Mademoiselle Infinium and I think the can is cool, too... I’m really pleased with it!What’s coming up next in your collaborative partnership?I can’t say just yet, but I can assure you that there is some exciting stuff coming up in the future. I feel comfortable working with L’Oréal. It’s funny, because I have other projects going on at

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create what I really wanted to, even by using extensions. I had to make do wherever I could. The next solution was to create clothes for some friends who wanted to wear ‘leather’ but were animal-lovers – so I started to use real hair to make clothes for them.How does a hairdresser like you arrive on the catwalks of London Fashion Week with his collections?It all started about five years ago when I had the chance to make a small presentation at London Fashion Week – at the time, it was a game, but I made a big impact. From then on, things moved fast. I started to work with PR people and took on an agent. Now I have an excellent relationship with all the fashion designers. The strange thing is that they see me as a designer, while I continue to see myself as a hairdresser... that’s how I started and that’s how I’ll finish my life!Your first two catwalk collections had blood, sex... is provocation in your DNA?(Laughs) I don’t want to frighten people, but I like extreme things,

that’s why my ideas are often radical. I know well that I can’t really sell my catwalk collections to normal people on the street – firstly, because they’re too expensive because they’re made with human hair, and secondly, because nobody would want to wear them, they’re too outlandish. My objective is for people to remember my collections, and to enjoy them with me.Yet some people do wear your creations. Like Lady Gaga, for example...(Laughs) Yeah, I have to say, she’s a great client! The truth is that she lets me do what I want when I’m working. What do we have in common? Well, I think that she’s like me in that she wants to show people how things can be different, an alternative to the everyday stuff, that fashion can be both beautiful and fun, but in a different way.What should we watch out for from Charlie Le Mindu?It depends! Nowadays I spend a lot of time in London because I’ve just opened an incredible salon on the fifth floor at Harrods and I’m training my team to make it one of the best salons of the city.

G A L L E R Y

Charlie Le Mindu’s designs break all

boundaries in hairdressing.

The famous London Fashion Week transformed ofthe creations by the young hairstylist.

“Lady Gaga’s like me, she wants to show people how things can be different, an alternative to the everyday stuff. ”


Summer, the season of mellow

fruitfulness... and a season for care as

it’s time to protect and restore supple

shine to your clients’ hair from the

indulgent summer sun, sea and styling.

by Maria Weijers

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he weather, pollution, lifestyle, illness, fatigue, styling abuse… all major factors which impact the general health and wealth of hair.

Problems presenting themselves to hairdressers daily include dry hair, tight scalp, lack of shine, split ends, frizz, loss of elasticity, breakage – so many issues which can, luckily, be remedied by professional help. Clients today have access to a multitude of treatments which can replenish and replace what has been taken out of their hair either naturally or by external aggressors, such as over-processing or too much heat styling. Restorative salon treatments will reinstate pliability, manageability and ease of styling. They can lock in hair colour, balance pH and smooth the cuticle, making it sing with shine.

Damage limitationArguably the greatest damage offender is the over-use of heated styling tools. Flat irons, curling irons, hot rollers and excessive blow-drying all zap moisture out of the hair. Of course, repetitive chemical application such as hair colour, relaxers, semi-permanent straightening and permanent waves, no matter how advanced the technology, ultimately, it can all cause damage to some degree, especially if clients are less than inclined to heed your advice, are tardy about regular trims, and lazy about using the home care products you prescribe. Working with quality hair makes a hairdresser’s life both easier and more rewarding – you’re not governed by poor condition limitations. So encouraging clients to optimise their hair condition by having regular treatments is a no-brainer, but salon treatments are not a natural ask. Hairdressers can undervalue their knowledge, thinking their clients know as much as they do. Not so! In general, clients don’t quite ‘get’ what a treatment is, why they need one, which to have, what it will do. It’s really down to you, the professional, to analyse, recommend, apply and capitalise on a service mutually beneficial and cash register lucrative.

The sellTo be plausible, treatment benefits must be believable and tangible. With time and money being limited these days, treatments must be quick to administer (but not too quick or else the client will feel cheated) and,

T

A big part of salon success is making a

client feel as good as she looks, while

taking a genuine interest in her hair health and general

wellbeing.

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reasonably priced. Of course professional products are significantly better than high street brands (hooray to our salon manufacturers whose research and development labs just keep on delivering) so there’s one immediate benefit to explain to your client. Talk her through the problem you’ve diagnosed, explain how you can address it so you can give her the style of her dreams, a more lustrous colour, more supple hair, gleaming shine, and less static and frizz. The treatmentIf time allows, incorporate a head massage as part of the treatment, involve her in the sensory part of the process so she can smell the product and feel the difference it’s making to her hair. Engaging her visually and tangibly all adds to the experience, makes her feel as good as her hair now looks. Finally, prescribe the compatible shampoo and conditioner to maintain her hair in the best possible condition, explain how and when to use it, that you’re looking forward to seeing improvement the next time she’s in the salon. A big part of salon success is making the client feel as good as she looks, and by taking genuine interest and a really caring approach to your treatments – then you’re halfway there.

Joico’s Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm with Hydramine sea complex is great for thick, coarse,dry hair. For fine limp hair, Body Luxe with oat protein complex weightlessly thickens hair, while oat amino acids encourage fluid movement. Aveda’s new Invati range powered by Densiplex, an invigorating complex of Ayurvedic herbs, remedies problems such as thinning hair, loss of volume, lackof density or a tight and dry scalp. Schwarzkopf Professional BC Oil Miracle Gold Shimmer Treatment deeply recharges hair from the inside, nourishing it with Argan Oil, giving hair ultimate opulent shine, softness and noticeable suppleness.Clynol Rescue Rinse-off Treatment restores and revives the basic structure of each hair strand, intensively rebuilding hair to defend against more damage.Indola Innova Glamour Hair Mask with Shea Butter turns dull or frayed hair into a strong, shiny head of hair. Renewing hair from within, it reduces split endsby up to 95 percent.

It’s down to the professionals to

analyse, recommend and capitalise on a

service mutually beneficial and cash

register lucrative.

Add-on treatments need to be quick to administer, but not

so quick that the client will feel

cheated

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L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Masque with Argan Oil and Cotton Seed Oil specifically targets tired and dull hair, delivering deeply nourished, maximum shine, detangled, soft and silky hair.La Biosthetique Masque de Luxe with extracts of silk, champagne and minerals from pearls gives tired, stressed hair energy and vitality. Internal and external damage is repaired and the hair becomes more resistant to external stress.TIGI Hair Reborn has three separate treatment journeys: Resurgence to strengthen dull, lifeless hair; Serenity for hair needing nourishment and smoothing; and Awakening, the ultimate treatment for weak, damaged hair to instantly impart strength and vitality.Bumble and Bumble Mending and Quenching families: four product treatments – mild shampoo, light-weight conditioner, intensive masque and a potent leave-in complex. The Mending family repairs chemically damaged hair for strength, shine and protection. The Quenching family replenishes heat-weary, roughly-handled or chronically dry hair for strength, shine and protection.

Clients have access to a multitude of treatments to replenish and replace what has been taken out of their hair.

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edition was about to open, the ‘Sogecos turnaround’ finally arrived. This all resulted in the change of the previous director, with BolognaFiere taking the helm directly, and its newly-elected president, Duccio Campagnoli breathing new life into the Sogecos organi gram. An indispensable condition for the authentic re-starting of Cosmoprof itself. The intention is to erase the faults, weaknesses, and misguided intentions of the past three years... and restore the splendour of its hey-day, all to the advantage of the world of hairdressing and its protagonists. Quite a daunting challenge for Duccio Campagnoli: “I thought it was difficult to lead a group like BolognaFiere, but even leading its ‘flagship’, Sogecos, is far from child’s play.”You were part of the boom and the golden age, between the 90s and 2000, when Cosmoprof was the only true global showcase...It was a synonym of beauty! Right from the beginning, it brought the world to Bologna: it is a part of Bologna’s identity, as well as that of BolognaFiere.Besides these high points, however, it would be appropriate to remember some of the shortcomings in the recent Sogecos management that led to the progressive alienation of some important players; decisions not in keeping with the needs of exhibitors and visitors... Was your entrance a harbinger of change?Cosmoprof experienced a piece of Italian history

lthough Cosmoprof 2012 has been announ-ced as a restart edition, much is still linked to the even more obvious re-starting

of Sogecos, the organisational engine of Cosmoprof Worldwide. Many sector operators had requested an overall reorganisation of the worldwide invent to invert the shortcomings recorded over recent years. ESTETICA Network not only maintained some distance from the Cosmoprof that seemed to be increasingly lifeless compared to what it was originally, but repea tedly pointed out the specific reasons for such a tailspin to Sogecos management. When the 2012

Restart

Cosmoprof!An exclusive interview with the new Head of

Cosmoprof, Sogecos, and BolognaFiere,

Duccio Campagnoli, for the readers of

ESTETICA.by Roberto Pissimiglia

A

and cannot avoid recognising and supporting changes as they are proposed. When I took over the leadership of BolognaFiere, it seemed clear that we would have to dedicate our full attention to the flagship of the Group; it deserved direct attention in the development plans of BolognaFiere. This led to the decision that the president would deal directly with it; hence my assignment as director of Sogecos. Today we perceive a strong need to consolidate the results attained and to reopen the page onto tomorrow. And, we believe that because Cosmoprof is so deeply rooted, relations with Italian industry and the international dimension will help us to rapidly improve on the results of those recent years. Certainly, Cosmoprof Bologna is not merely a festival. Above all, it will be a leading event reflecting the quality of the cosmetic industry and the primary reference point of our international network. Then, we must pay renewed attention to innovating the product and being closer to the operators in all sectors.So the new Cosmoprof is aimed primarily at sector operators and to increase international attraction?Of course. Fairs are organised above all with operators. They are the true stars. This is why we want to talk with companies, with the media, like ESTETICA, and with associations. The numbers are gratifying: the 2012 edtion welcomed 2 320 exhibitors from more than 70 countries; 175 700 visitors, including more than 40 000 from abroad, and 600 accredited journalists.

I N T E R V I E W

These numbers are the starting point for the new Sogecos team.We staked everything on strong, confident, and demon- strated professionalism, and we cultivated teamwork, with a team that listens to and speaks with exhibitors, while paying attention to important visitors like buyers and distributors. In the world, we want to be more than just a partner: Cosmoprof Hong Kong is doing very well, but if we think of Asia, we cannot stop there. We must look towards new markets. We want to consolidate the relationship with our local partners and discuss a more direct and stronger presence on the Chinese market.Let’s get back to Bologna, a message for 2013?Obviously everyone should come to Cosmoprof to verify that we are doing a good job. We can still grow and we want to dedicate special attention to hairdressing and to beauty to interpret new synergies together with companies, operators, and the media. Not an easy task, but one that we want to face with competence, discipline, professionalism, and ethics. Before saying goodbye, please let me thank the sector operators and the world of the media, beginning with ESTETICA, who succeeded in overlooking a few misunderstandings. Now we feel even more committed to demonstrating what we know in numbers, not only in words.

Opposite: Duccio Campagnoli, President of BolognaFiere and Sogecos. Left, Dino Tavazzi, Sogecos Managing Director. In the group photo, L-R: Enrico Zannini, Manager of Cosmoprof Worldwide; Roberto Valente; Manager of Cosmofarma; Laura Zaccagnini, International Affairs Director; Simona Antonimi and to oversee R&D.

“Today we perceive a strong needto consolidate the results attained and to reopen the page onto tomorrow.”


F.A.M.E

his September 2012, ghd hosted the Fellowship Academy of Merit and Excellence (F.A.M.E) Team of talented up and coming

stylists at Professional Hair & Beauty Johannesburg. During the event at the Gallagher Convention Centre on 2 and 3 September, the Team presented a seminar on both days showcasing the latest techniques and trends straight from the UK.

F.A.M.E Team members are selected annually by the Fellowship for British Hairdressing to promote a new generation of bright young talent. During their time on the Team, the stylists are trained to work on everything from photographic shoots and fashion shows to hairdressing seminars and events. This platform has acted as a launch pad for many top hairdressers such as ghd session stylists, Zoe Irwin and Paul Merritt. “At ghd, we pride ourselves on supporting emerging talent in the industry, both locally through our ghd Style Squad, and abroad through opportunities such as this,” says Landi Le Roux, Marketing Manager for ghd South Africa.

This year’s F.A.M.E Team members include Ashley Hodges from Flame Hairdressing, Ryan Harris from Angels, Isabella Hyde from Rush and Rebecca Hunt from Sanrizz. ESTETICA SA chats to the very talented foursome on what it’s like to be part of such a dynamic team and their experience in South Africa.

How did you conceptualise your hairstyle entry?

Becky: As a hairdresser, I am inspired by fashion and I like to use hair as a fabric. My photographic image referenced designs by Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh. Both designers use structure and exaggerated body shapes which I mirrored in my Avant Garde design. I was really pleased with the end result as it was both innovative and fashion-forward.

TAfter intense rounds of assessments and

hard work, four up and coming talented

hairstylists were chosen to be part of

the F.A.M.E Team. South Africa

welcomed them to our shores for

Professional Hair & Beauty.

Team

E V E N T S

F.A.M.E...This year’s F.A.M.E. Team members Ashley Hodges from Flame Hairdressing, Ryan Harris from Angels, Isabella Hyde from Rush and Rebecca Hunt from Sanrizz created inspirational hairstyles on the ghd stage at Professional Hair & Beauty.


FAME.indd 3 2012/11/27 12:42 PM

Ashleigh: My entry was inspired by the Topshop Unique Catwalk That Session which was very 70s. I did a vibrant red with a heavy fringe and tight curls forming around the sides. I wanted something that was a bit dramatic but also beautiful.

Isabella: The key to my submission was to do a simple, clean, well executed style on an amazing looking girl and that could be recreated in an hour.

The four of you have been granted the opportunity that most stylists only dream about. How does it feel to be part of such a dynamic team?

Becky: To be chosen as part of the F.A.M.E Team 2012 was the highlight of my career! The opportunities we have been given have been priceless and I am eternally grateful to The Fellowship for British Hairdressing for choosing me.

Ashleigh: It is so amazing. I think we all feel extremely lucky, but we worked very hard to get onto the team. I’ve wanted to be on the F.A.M.E team since I was 13, it really was my childhood dream come true.

Isabella: It’s been an amazing opportunity. We have worked closely with some very talented people and companies, as well as travelled to South Africa and San Diego. It has launched all of our individual careers.

What do you wish to gain from your time as a F.A.M.E team member?

Becky: I have gained fantastic experience in all aspects of hairdressing and made some incredible contacts along the way. As a hairdresser, I feel it has broadened my knowledge of the industry and given me a platform from which I feel confident to progress. I have gained some great friends in the industry that I feel proud to have shared this experience with.

Ashleigh: I mainly wanted to become a polished hairdresser in all areas, but I have learnt so much more. We have had some incredible icons to learn from, as well as doing amazing photo shoots andshows around the world.

Isabella: Unfortunately, our year is almost over, but I have gained a lot of confidence and made contacts all around the world. It’s been everything I expected and more. Where do you draw inspiration from?

Becky: My main inspiration comes from fashion, when hair is used as a fabric, the opportunities are endless. I have always loved the creative arts so anything and everything inspires me.

Ashleigh: I find inspiration everywhere. I own so many fashion and editorial magazines that I get inspired by. I am also never without my iPhone, so if I’m out and see a building or texture that inspires me I take a photo. I am also a big social networker so I follow lots of fashion houses and bloggers on twitter and Instagram and I save the images they post.

Isabella: My inspiration comes from keeping my eyes open to the world around me. Seasonal runways are a massive inspiration and so is the city street style. Fashion plays a massive roll in my life as well as nature and travel.

What is your favourite ghd product and styling accessory?

Becky: My favourite ghd product is the Final Fix hairspray. It’s versatile and can be used on stage to fix an Avant Garde up-style or on set to give texture to a editorial blowdry. I love all of the styling accessories so it’s impossible to choose one, at the moment I would be lost without my Classic Stylers and Oval Dressing brush. Ashleigh: I have two favourite products, Straight and Tame Cream and Total Volume Foam, and I couldn’t live without the ghd Air dryer.

Isabella: My favourite ghd accessory is the finishing brush. I have two, one to dust hair away from my clients faces during cutting and one to finish hair styling, grooming each individual hair into place. It’s so soft and luxurious.

A sneak peek into Becky’s diary while in South Africa…

After a long 11-hour flight we arrived in Johannesburg and were greeted with a lovely welcome from the ghd South Africa Team. We went straight into castings and finalised our plans for the show. The brief was to re-create our shoot images and also create a show-stopping Avant Garde look.

After each choosing two models, we went to check out the venue. The set-up was impressive, with a live prep area for visitors to see the foundations of each look and an exclusive ‘Ticket Holders Only’ stage where the audience could watch us re-create our looks live on stage. Seeing all of our images around the venue made us feel immensely proud of what we’d achieved.

The first day opened and the exhibition was packed. We were nervous but eager to get on stage together. We had spent a couple of hours prepping the hair, which allowed visitors to ask questions and watch various techniques being performed with the stylers. At 12 o’clock it was show time and the exclusive stage had sold out. We were prepped and ready to go.

For my first look I re-created my shoot image. Prepping the hair with volume products, I had used the max stylers to create a classic pin-curl set. When dressed out on stage it created a beautiful soft wave. For my second look I pinned the sides and created lots of height through the top. Both looks achieved an effortless editorial look and I was pleased with the finished result. My Avant Garde model was based on a simple braiding technique which when wire was added became a three dimensional, organic structure.

Ashleigh’s stunning re-creation of her finger wave technique on her first model showed timeless glamour. For the second look she pinned it into a soft chignon, creating a beautifully regal effect. The Avant Garde style used rik-rakking to create impressive texture and maximum volume and a pan was used to mould the shape. The top was a forties inspired roll using hair-pads and the overall look was dramatic but beautiful.

Ryan’s first look was re-created using the classic stylers to make a tight pin-curl set. He dressed it out to create maximum volume and then, using a pan, moulded it into a dramatic three-dimensional shape. The result was a striking editorial curl. For his last look he used a slightly looser curl and dressed it out to have a contrasting smooth crown. He then used a stencil and coloured hairspray which made a beautiful baroque inspired pattern.

For Izzy’s first look she used a 4-finger barrel curl set with maximum volume through the top. When dressed out it was a beautiful combination of defined curls with a soft smoky texture. The second look was a slick roll contrasting with soft texture through the top. Her next look was a braided pompadour. Using fine braids anchored at the recession and folded into the nape, the top was smoothed with stylers and then backcombed to create a stunning pompadour. The final look saw her add a visor handmade using hair and wire which creates a dramatic McQueen inspired look.

Coming out on stage together was a great feeling. We were confident in our looks and as the shows progressed so did our work. By the final show we had nailed both our looks and presentations and received great feedback from the audience, and ghd South Africa.

The team at ghd South Africa made us feel so welcome and we were very grateful for their hospitality. We were also lucky enough to have the ghd Style Squad to assist us throughout the shows.

We had a great time with our mentors Bruno and Andreas; they gave us invaluable advice that undoubtedly improved our performance. South Africa has brought us closer together as a team, and given us confidence for our next live shows at Salon International.


Hair

Worshiphis was the 23rd year of the NAHA Awards Ceremony, yet it seemed as fresh and exciting as ever, thanks to five artistic

presentations from NAHA 2011 Hairstylist of the Year Eli Mancha, artists from the Proctor & Gamble Salon Professional Brands, Cloud Nine Hair USA and Aveda. It was also befitting to include a tribute to Vidal Sassoon, whose death this year truly marked the passing of an era in the history of hairstyling. Then, on 22 July, during a gala ceremony at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas, more than 3 000 beauty professionals gathered together, with more than 35 000 views worldwide who tuned in to watch the live streaming on hairdesignertv.com, to enjoy the suspense and the thrill of victory. NAHA’s top honour, Hairstylist of the Year, was deservedly presented to Dimitrios Tsioumas, from the Mizu New York Salon in New York, who also nabbed the 2012 Contemporary Classic category. The value of such awards to hairdressers is also enhanced in consideration of the calibre of the international roster of judges NAHA recruits. It would be difficult to find judges more qualified than Vivienne Mackinder, Tabatha Coffey, Nicholas French, and Damien Carney – none of whom need any introduction.Lovely and popular journalist and host of E! Network’s E! News and Fashion Police, and this year’s special host of the 2012 NAHA Awards Ceremony, Giuliana Rancic, was also honoured with the PBA Beautiful Humanitarian Award for her unrelenting dedication to a wide variety of charitable organisations. Innovations planned for next year include a ‘Men’s Hairstylist of the Year’ and the opportunity for applicants for ‘Make-up Artist of the Year’ to submit their own entries without being nominated by a hairstylist. Great ideas! In fact, the only way NAHA could be better is if there were more of it!

TBy now a litany followed religiously year after

year when the hairdressing industry

recognises the best among them.

by Marie Scarano

Hairstylist of the Year

A W A R D S

Avant-Garde

Contemporary Classic

Editorial Stylist of the Year

HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEARDimitrios Tsioumas

Mizu New YorkNew York, NY

MASTER STYLIST OF THE YEAREdwin Johnson

Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC, Canada

NEWCOMER STYLIST OF THE YEARSal Misseri

Ladies & Gentleman Salon & Spa, Chicago, IL

SALON TEAM OF THE YEARLunatic Fringe Salon

Salt Lake City, UT

EDITORIAL STYLIST OF THE YEARNeeko Abriol

Salon Sessions Studio Pasadena, CA

STUDENT HAIRSTYLISTOF THE YEAR

Cassandra Monteyro Aveda Fredric’s Institute

West Chester, OH

MAKE-UP ARTIST OF THE YEARJeanne San Diego R Rated Hair Upland, CA

AVANT GARDENicholas FrenchWest Hampton, NY

CONTEMPORARY CLASSICDimitrios Tsioumas Mizu New YorkNew York, NY

HAIRCOLOURChad DemchukDrexel Hill, PA

TEXTUREJasmine Gibbs The Cutting EdgeBrooklyn, NY

SALON DESIGNSquare Colour Salon + Spa Las Vegas, NV

SALON MBAGila Rut SalonsSan Diego, CA

PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD: NEWCOMER Stylist of the YearNick HemsleyLunatic Fringe Salon Salt Lake City, UT All photos courtesy of PBA

Haircolour

People’s Choice Award - Newcomer Stylist of the Year

Texture

Make-up Artist of the Year

Salon Team of the Year

Student Hairstylist of the Year

Master Stylist of the Year

Newcomer Stylist of the Year

22


he Gallagher Estate in Midrand hosted this year’s Professional Hair

Show in conjunction with Professional Beauty on Sunday 2 and Monday 3 September. ESTETICA SA was excited to attend the event and arrived to a buzzing venue which was packed with hair fanatics and beauty enthusiasts from around the country.The two day event was well supported by the trade who took exhibition space and the thousands of stylists, students and professionals who attended.Guests were treated to shows

THair enthusiasts from around South Africa

gathered at the 2012 Professional Hair Show held in conjunction with

Professional Beauty.

Trade

Exhibit

professional hair show.indd 2 2012/11/21 1:17 PM

E V E N T S

throughout the day on the live stage, competition giveaways, product demonstrations, educational seminars and fantastic shopping opportunities. The main stage featured performances from Wella Illumina, Brazilian Blowout, Centurion Academy, Kerastraight and many more. The Twincare stage programme included the Tigi Copyright Colour with Carl Zachau from the international creative team, Babylisspro American Styler, Biosense Next Generation, New York Fashion Week with the Moroccanoil international creative team and the Spring Collection, sponsored by Paul Mitchell, featuring work from different salons.

On Sunday evening, Twincare hosted the SA Hairdressing Awards, where they honoured the top preforming salons in various categories in South Africa and Namibia. Winners were awarded beautiful trophies. A special treat was the presence of the ghd F.A.M.E Team from the UK who performed on the main stage as well as within the ticket holder’s ghd stand. The very talented team members created beautiful representations of their entry looks and avant-garde styles. This year’s exhibitors included Hindustan Hair Products, TI Creative Styling, Lilian Terry International, Hannon, Mizutani

Scissors, EOHCB, Prana Vital Life, Tigi, Bella Zara, Inoar, Paul Mitchell, Babylisspro, Kandi Brands, Jungle Fever Brelil, Moroccanoil and many more professional manufacturers and brands.The event was a huge success and we look forward to the next Professional Hair and Beauty held in Cape Town on 17-18 March 2013.

The two day event was well supported by the trade.


roud to promote the brilliance of British hairdressing directly to the consumer, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing seasonally

chooses four of its members to represent the craft in a promotional campaign called Signature Style. Fellowship members are invited to submit an image which they consider to have the most consumer appeal. And from this season’s 30-plus entries, a judging panel chose four looks to fit the bill, presented here. This season’s Signature Stylists are: Tasha Stevens (Jamie Stevens Salon, London), Yesmin O’Brien (Seanhanna, Sutton), Sean Tetlow (The Colour Room, Stockport) and Ian Davies (Ocean Hairdressing, Cardiff). Being used to promote British hairdressingat its best to consumers and hairdressers alike, ESTETICA asked the winners to talk about the vibe behind their style.

TASHA STEVENSWorking alongside her brother,the multi-award winning celebrity hairdresser Jamie Stevens, 26-year-old Tasha Stevens is one of British hairdressing’s rising stars. “With my very beautiful model I’ve created a look which is soft and sexy,

a style which can be blow-dried smooth and sleek or fuller with body, even tousled and loose,” says Tasha. “It’s cut using soft, invisible line layers for versatility and volume, with a deep, falling asymmetric fringe.It’s the ideal style for classic, British, fine to medium density hair. Colour wise, I introduced warm pink-peach hues over a pre-lightened base to complement the model’s rosy complexion. It’s a colour which also reflects the warmth of golden autumn leaves, just perfect for the coming season.”

Four beautifully executed looks have

been chosen to represent The

Fellowship for British Hairdressing in its

autumn/winter Signature Stylist

campaign.

Hair: Tasha Stevens@ Jamie Stevens Salon, LondonMake-up: Gemma AldousPhotography: Jens

P

Styling it out

fellowship UK 3 12.indd 2 2012/11/21 1:21 PM

SEAN TETLOW Current British Hairdressing Awards Midlands Hairdresser of the Year, Sean’s brand is synonymous with exceptional colour work, precision cutting and defined styling. “Fashion is my main source of inspiration but as hair is often simple

on the catwalks, my inspiration comes from the textures of the fabrics and the themes of the collections,” says Sean. “High end advertising in glossy magazines also gives me a taste of the direction a new season’s looks will take. This look is all about texture and shape which I created by following my instinct that plaits in hair-up styles are set to be an emerging trend. With this look, I had a sense that the softness, the loosened strands and the sheer romance of it would be a mood perfect for autumn/winter.”

YESMIN O’BRIENYesmin O’Brien is Artistic Directorof the Seanhanna Group and assistant to Sam McKnight and Malcolm Edwards at London, New York and Paris Fashion Weeks. “This look is all about couture hair celebrating beauty and femininity,” explains Yesmin. “Every style, no

matter how simple, can be dressed into something really beautiful and glamorous using classic dressing techniques and a bob is the simplest haircut there is. I transformed my model Ella’s bitter chocolate brown coloured bob with an off-centre parting, separating thehair into four big sections which I then tonged.Once the sections had cooled, I then gently brushed through to create this soft undulating shape. Ella’shair is medium density, but this look works on virtually every hair type.”

IAN DAVIESA hairdresser for 30 years,Ocean salon owner Ian Davies says hair is an emotional business where the secret to success is making clients feel as good as they look. “Barbie dolls are the inspiration behind the collection from which this look is

taken. I aimed to create flawless sculpted shapes, clean and simple with an immaculate finish,” explains Ian. “This particular model has a head hugging, cheeky haircut which could look quite hard if not given an overtone of femininity. By lifting it to a beautiful clean tone of platinum white blonde and breaking up the smooth blow-dry, ruffling up the interior texture, you give it a very girlie look straight away. Shaping the side sections into kiss curls to gently caress the cheekbones gives the whole look a cute baby doll feel.”

Hair: Sean Tetlow @ The Colour Room, StockportMake-up: Mady Austin

Clothes styling: Desiree LedererPhotography: Jack Eames

Hair: Yesmin O’Brien@ seanhanna, LondonMake-up: Irena RogersClothes styling:Bernard ConnollyPhotography: Jack Eames

Hair: Ian Davies @ Ocean Hairdressing, Cardiff Make-up: Jo FrostClothes styling: Jared GreenPhotography: John Rawson

L E G E N D S


fellowship UK 3 12.indd 3 2012/11/21 1:22 PM

or a collection dubbed Cinematic Nights, Sexy Hair’s Rafe Hardy could hardly helpbut take chameleonic changes as the

underlying theme: “It’s about the versatility of the designs and the ability to morph into a change without having to be drastic.” The concept has been decided, now what? Rafe explains that he surrounds himself with trend savvy and highly creative artists, collaborating on putting together storyboards and practicing both looks and photos on mannequins to help work outa timeline. As the shoot is also intended to produce how-to videos, the main focus is on cutting and styling, as texture is achieved not only in the haircut, but by the use of different products and styling tools. Colour is also important. Rafe explains, “We use colour to emphasise focal points in a design.”Of course, there are always challenges to be met. “I think the biggest factor is time management and format,” reveals Rafe, “A photoshoot can sometimes be up to three days long with three different models and up to five looks for each of them... lighting, wardrobe, and styles change... it can be overwhelming without pre-determining a format.”So a variety of factors actually contribute to the final look, but Rafe counts on the synergy of the team to succeed in getting the intended message across through the imagery. “We collaborate with our Marketing and Art department to discover their vision for layouts, colour, products, and backgroundto achieve a common goal,” he affirms.What was the common goal for Cinematic Nights? Adapting silver screen glam to everyday business. Rafe believes that, “Subtle changes offer a realistic approach, making it easier for stylists to advise their clients while still remaining on trend.”Right on, Rafe!

Behind the scenes with Sexy Hair’s

Rafe Hardy – picking his brain on where it starts, teamwork, and the final result.

The magic formula? Inspiration and lots of

hard work.by Marie Scarano

F

Shooting

secrets

“A good photographer will take a few test shots and review with the team, making necessary changes to avoid a lot of post-production work.”

Photoshoots start with inspiration, but take lots of hard work and determination to get winning results.

S H O O T I N G

We have worked with amazing artistswho understand our culture, message, and are willing to work as a team.


January20-22Beauty Expo USALas Vegas (USA)www.beautyexposusa.com

20-22Redken SymposiumLas Vegas (USA)www.redkensalon.com

26-27Cosmetica HannoverHannover (Germany)www.ki-online.del

26-28ISSE (Intl. Salon & Spa Expo)Long Beach (USA)www.probeauty.org/isselb

February2-4CosmobellezaBarcelona (Spain)www.cosmobella.com

16-17Beauty Forum SpainValencia (Spain)www.health-and-beauty.com

29–31 MayBeautyworld Middle EastDubai – www.beautyworldme.com

With a venue as beautiful and awe-inspiring as the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, it’s inevitable that Beautyworld Middle East is destined to grow from strength to strength. For the 2012 edition, the fair recorded a 20 percent increase, with 829 exhibitors representing 50 nations worldwide. “We exceeded our expectations – we closed this edition with a notable increase in the number of visitors and new requests on an international level: signals of how the fair is becoming a reference point for the beauty sector in our country,” commented Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Epoc Messe Frankfurt, the organiser of the event. The fair has focused its attention on two trends capable of boosting the beauty sector: natural and organic products, of which the sales have increased by 20 percent in the Middle East, and men’s lines.

6-8 OctoberInterCharm MilanoMilan – www.intercharm.it

In its third year, Reed Exhibitions, organisers of InterCharm Milano, increased its floorspace and added to its list of special events. International attention ensured Organisa tion Mondiale de la Coiffure’s Hairworld 2012 and the International School Championship. Other shows featured world renowned platform artists and the Italian finals of the Hair Show & Trend Vision Award by Wella Professionals and the Hair Spotlight. InterCharm Milano played host to all the beauty sectors: Perfumery & Cosmetics, Beauty Salon, Nail, Hair, and Packaging. Visitors benefited from online pre-registration, which allows visitors to save money on the ticket price.

Fairs, events and shows

of high prestige: an overview of the most

highly anticipa ted

and creative opportunities

in our agenda.

17-18Miami Beauty ShowMiami (USA)www.ibeautyshow.com

22-25Beauty Expo Nevskie BeregaSaint-Petersburg (Russia)www.en.beautycup.info

24-25Professional BeautyLondon (UK)www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

REPORT

REPORT

24-25Hairstyle 2013Kortrijk (Belgium)www.hairstyle.be

25-27Beauty AsiaSingapore (Singapore)www.beautyasia.com.sq

March1-2Beauty of World & SpaPrague (Czech Republic)www.beautyexpo.eu

2-3Beauty Forum SwissZurich (Switzerland)www.beauty-forum.ch

8-10Beauty DaysZagreb (Croatia)www.zy.hr

8-11Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Bologna (Italy)www.cosmoprof.com

9-10Beauty Forum PolandWarsaw (Poland)www.health-and-beauty.com

9-11Mondial Spa & BeautéParis (France)ww.msbparis.com

9-11America’s Beauty ShowChicago (USA)www.americasbeautyshow.com

A G E N D A

14-16Beauty Forum SlovakiaTrencin (Slovakia)www.health-and-beauty.com

15-17Beauty InternationalDüsseldorf (Germany)www.beauty.de

16-18Top Hair InternationalDüsseldorf (Germany)www.top-hair-international.com

17-18Professional BeautyCape Town (South Africa)www.probeauty.co.za

24-25Professional Hairdresser LiveManchester (UK)www.prohairlive.co.uk

31HairistIstanbul (Turkey)www.hair-ist.net

From classic to creative to technical. Salon International is London’s premier hair trade fair.

REPORT

REPORT

14-16 NovemberCosmoprof AsiaHong Kong – www.cosmoprof-asia.com

Cosmoprof Asia opened its 17th edition at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from 14-16 November 2012. It is a global meeting place and networking platform. The International Buyers Programme offered the chance to forge new strategic alliances, with no other event in the Asia-Pacific bringing together as large an international gathering. Every year, Cosmoprof Asia also offers a wide variety of business and training, with a rich programme of conferences, technical seminars and events. Cosmoprof Asia is organised by Cosmoprof Asia Limited, a joint venture company between UBM Asia Limited and the BolognaFiere Group.

13-14 OctoberSalon IntlLondon – www.salonexhibitions.co.uk

Salon International, the UK’s biggest and most visited hair trade fair opened its doors at London’s ExCel events venue this October for a show full of creativity and innovation. It hosted a programme of live creative and educational events both on individual stands and in the main theatre, which showcased the new season’s styles, cutting techniques and colouring trends. Salon International is the event which really does have something for everyone who works in our industry.

Trends fresh from catwalks,

exhibitions, and platform artists for all.


ighlights of the past 12 months:Style Studio Hair Salon

Group wins the Retailer of the Year for the international professional hair brand Paul Mitchell.Clicks Group Hair & Cosmetics Fastest Growing Supplier of the Year award.Level 1 B-BBEE Company.Supplier of the Year to the Clicks Group 2011 for the Hair Care category.

Five years ago Sharad Chagan and I were going through a process of scrutiny and rejection by various financial institutions in our bid to buy the Style Studio Salon Chain from the Clicks Group. The recession in 2008 forced us to look for new business opportunities, and find new revenue streams to remain successful, in a market that was under pressure. Our journey began

by distributing a luxurious brand of Human hair Outré in 2008.

Then the deal to distribute the Dr Miracles brand in 2010 was clinched. In 2011, we secured the distribution of the Fantasia IC brand. Our latest launch is the world-leading brand of Satin Sleep Caps called Stay on Satin, by Spartan Brands. This success has resulted in numerous approaches from other international manufacturers in the hair and cosmetic market. However, we are very selective about the next brand that we launch in this market as it has to complement the very high standards of our current brand set. It also takes an incredible amount of hard work, risk and effort to grow any brand in this market therefore you have to make the right choice from day one.

Cindy Horton catches up with

Grant Heynes, owner of Style

Studio, a chain of professional hair

and beauty salons and supplier of

premium products .

Style

Studio

U P D A T E

Dr Miracles is one of the most innovative retail brands to be launched for the ethnic consumer in the past eight years. Today we are the fastest growing ethnic hair retail brand in South Africa.

H

style studio.indd 2 2012/11/26 1:20 PM

A magical launch The Bromwell in Woodstock, Cape Town, hosted the magic themed New Look Nisim launch, which unveiled their new sulphate-free shampoo. The product is safe to use on colour treated hair or hair that has received treatments that require sulphate-free products to be used. Managing Director, Raphael Tome welcomed everyone and gave an informative and emotional presentation. Guests were treated to drinks, snacks and an entertaining magic show. Rubybox, who have partnered with Nisim, presented lucky recipients in the crowd with Rubyboxes filled with luxury beauty products.

Gosh CosmeticsGosh Cosmetics is a trendy cosmetics brand from Denmark that has been turning heads for more than 25 years. It is currently represented in over 78 countries worldwide and is now available in South Africa for the first time. The product range includes colour, fragrance, skincare and haircare. “It is a wonderful coup for Edgars and

Red Square to introduce the Gosh range of products to South Africa,” comments Angela Eaton Corder, Executive Buying Manager for Gosh at Edcon. “For over 25 years, Gosh Cosmetics has become renowned in over 78 countries throughout the world for its ability to understand the fluctuating needs and aspirations of the modern woman and most of their products are free of parabens and perfumes, so they are ideal for any skin type.”


N E W S

Alek Wek for Melissa International fashion model Alek Wek, has been selected to represent melissa shoes in their latest campaign. The South Sudanese supermodel is the face of the melissa ‘Rainbow’ collection, the images from the campaign are bright and colourful with Alek styled like an African princess, in a techni-coloured rainbow, she stands statuesque. The collection is now available at retail stores until March 2013.

Ultrasun launches in SAThe Cape Town media were invited to the launch the innovative sun care brand Ultrasun, which is now available throughout South Africa. Beauty gurus assembled at Sotano restaurant, on the beautiful Mouille Point strip, to learn more about Ultrasun and the damaging effects of the sun. Developed and manufactured in Switzerland, Ultrasun offers high levels of protection from UVA and UVB rays, is hypo-allergenic, fragrance free and suitable for all skin types.

Melody Silencer in Eastern EuropeOn a recent business trip, while visiting Eastern Europe hair-salons, it was brought to light that many hairstylists use Parlux professional products, especially their famous hairdryers. Some of the most successful salons in Prague and Belgrade, as seen in the pictures, work with Parlux hairdryers with the attached Melody Silencer. The usefulness of this indispensable device, which reduces 45 percent of the noise in salons, has been much appreciated and the hairstylists, who have tried it, do not want to dry hair without it. Thanks to the famous technical features which make Parlux hairdryers easily recognisable (powerful, lightweight, handy and now also eco-friendly) they have become popular styling tools. The Parlux 3200 and Parlux 3800 Eco-friendly are appreciated by salon customers too because they can obtain quick, and now, very silent drying.

South Africa welcomes Kiehl’sIconic supplier of quality skin and hair care products opens its first store in Sandton City, Johannesburg. For those not familiar with the brand, Kiehl’s 160-year track record is testament to the quality of their products and the service delivered. Originally opened in New York as a European-style pharmacy by John Kiehl and supplies New Yorkers with hand-blended fragrant essences. Key to Kiehl’s experience is their ‘try before you buy’

sampling philosophy, which ensures that customers leave the store with prescribed formulas for their specific needs. The store is located within Edgars Sandton.

Affliction store opening with DJ FreshAffliction Clothing was launched in the USA in August 2005, its motto “live fast” created a cult following of customers and fans that have driven the brands rapid expansion across the globe. The brands global appeal has seen it grow from continent to continent, arriving in South Africa with a flagship store in late 2010 in Africa’s largest mall, Sandton City. The 23rd October marked the official launch of the second Affliction store in South Africa’s Menlyn Park Shopping Centre. Affliction was very excited to have DJ Fresh, a friend and brand ambassador, to share in this event. He is part of the global set of ambassadors like Randy Couture, Ozzy

Osbourne, and George St Pierre. While guests shopped up a storm with their R600 vouchers, waiters served culinary treats. Barman JP made and served cocktails; a signature Affliction iced tea and Harvey Wall bangers that added to the live fast motto.


A New ColourDavines launched their new ammonia-free A New Colour to the media at two fun and informative events. The Davines Artistic Team hosted the Cape Town colour showcase at the DIS Daylight Studios on 22 October and in Johannesburg on 28 October at the Carlton Hair Academy. Talented stylists David Gillson, Boyd Meihlon and Kim Franklin, who make up the dynamic Davines artistic team, created vibrant hairstyles using the A New Colour.

N E W S

BIO SHAMPOO FOR FREQUENT WASHINGDermatologically tested, the Bema Bio Shampoo for Frequent Washing contains Tricobema Rivital, a complex based on Moringa, Cassia, Chamomille and Lavender. The shampoo is non-aggressive and therefore ideal for daily use and suitable for fragile, dry and damaged hair. The formula adds moisture and elasticity as well as strength and vitality. It neutralises electrostatic charges to help eliminate split ends.

2 SUNFLOWER COLOR PRESERVING SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONERKiehl’s Sunflower Color Preserving products are enriched with antioxidant rich Sunflower and Apricot oils and vitamins B3, B5 and B6. The shampoo and conditioner are sulphate-free and silicone-free to effectively protect colour-treated hair from becoming dull and locks in moisture, while helping to repair hair weakened by chemical processing.

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NATURALTECHThe Davines Naturaltech Energising products are specifically designed to solve problems of scalp and fragile hair that is prone to fallout, and to offer a preventive treatment for various forms of alopecia. The formula contains caffeine to stimulate the scalp’s cellular metabolism, sirtuins carry out an anti-oxidant and anit-ageing action, while invigorating and reinforcing the scalp. The fragrance of the range contains cinnamon, ginger and black pepper essential oils which offer a stimulating action.

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4 SEABUCKTHORN HAIR OILA selection of powerful oils to deliver naturally occurring vitamins A, B, C, E, and K have been used in the Badger Seabuckthorn Hair Oil Nightly Vitamin Restorative to nourish and replenish hair. The Seabuckthorn CO2 Extract and Pomegranate Oil found in the hair oil promote hair strength and elasticity, while the Apricot oil is a potent emollient, imparting moisture and shine. Rosehip CO2 Extract possesses regenerative properties, helping hair return to its healthiest state. The subtle citrus and hay scented formula protects cells from free radical damage and aids in collagen production, promoting hair strength and lustre.


CLEAN BREWRedken for Men’s Clean Brew Shampoo formula contains an anti-grit technology and a premium blend of malt, brewers yeast and orange zest which intensely cleanses to eliminate dirt and oil while helping to purify the scalp. The zesty citrus fragrance creates an awakening and refreshing experience.

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5 ECO.KID LICE BOMBA 100 percent naturally derived botanical complex of pure plant oils and essences found in the Eco.kid Lice Bomb aids in the removal of head lice and their eggs. The Lice Bomb uses natural terpenes and hydrocarbons from high grade essential oils that have higher solvent powers than chemical paint thinners. These natural solvent oils smell nice to us but not to lice. Due to its plant derived origins, the Lice Bomb is non-toxic and non-aggressive to humans when used in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

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FULL FRAME 07The Full Frame all-over Volumising Mousse volumises, moisturises and protects the hair from heat styling, humidity, colour fade and UV rays. The rich foam formula builds body and restores moisture while providing long lasting volume without the heaviness.

8POWDER REFRESH 01The Redken Powder Refresh 01 hair powder/dry shampoo absorbs oil, extends the life of a blowdry and instantly refreshes any style. The powerful aerosol spray distributes the products throughout the hair for a matte effect. The formula is a neutral shade and works for all hair colours, even darker bases.

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SILHOUETTE COLOR BRILLIANCEThe new Silhouette Color Brilliance from Schwarzkopf offers specially tailored styling products for coloured hair. The reworked line with its new formulations provide a super boost of shine and styling control for a professional finish. The styling line consists of a Mousse, Hairspray, Super Hold Gel and the new edition to the line is the Ultimate Gloss Spray, which provides intense shine on the surface of the hair.

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10 OIL MIRACLE GOLD SHIMMER TREATMENTSchwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure Oil Miracle Gold Shimmer Treatment with Argan oil deeply recharges the hair from within the fibre and nourishes it with precious oils. It combines the care of precious oils with a luxurious appearance and rich texture. The creamy treatment infuses shine and softness to the hair.


FRIZZ CONTROLMoroccanoil® Frizz Control has been specifically designed to tame unmanageable hair due to frizz and static. The formula contains a special, weightless blend to protect the hair under any weather conditions while keeping it smooth, calm and controllable. It counteracts the negative effects of chemical processing, heat styling and excessive brushing, which can leave hair damaged. With just a few light mists, Moroccanoil® Frizz Control will leave hair frizz-free, static-free and healthy.

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11 DRY SCALP TREATMENT With the variety of chemical and colour hair services offered these days, protecting your scalp is essential to preventing dryness, irritation and discomfort. To ensure your scalp is at its healthiest at all times, Moroccanoil® introduces Moroccanoil® Dry Scalp Treatment. Recognising that different scalp types have specific needs, this product is formulated with the essential nutrients needed to combat dry hair and scalp, working its way deep down to relieve itchiness and discomfort, while creating the optimal environment for fuller, healthier looking hair.

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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL

Publisher & DirectorRoberto Pissimiglia

Estetica Network Editorial DirectorCarla De Meo

Estetica Network Editor-in-chiefLaura Castelli

International Editorial CoordinatorFatima Pilone

International Editorial AssistantLudovica Cavalli

Editorial StaffSergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly,

Judith Lorenzon, Petra Weinzierl

Art DirectionBarbara Belletti

LayoutManuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente,

Elisa Favara

Licensing Editorial CoordinatorErika Marchese

Licensing ManagerElena Flaugnatti

Sales Supervisor Italy, France, Germany, Poland, The Netherlands, South Africa

Emilio de’ Martino

IFC ghd

2 Keune

4 Tigi

16 Estée Lauder

18 KMS California

20 Moroccanoil

84 Inoar Professional

92 Colorsmash

IBC Head Quarters

AD LIST

Advertising brokerPUBLIMATIC s.r.l.Estetica TurkeyHead Office: Corso Cairoli, 1610123 Torino (Italy)Tel.: +39 011 83921113Fax: +39 011 [email protected]

Foro Bonaparte, 7620121 Milano (Italy)Tel.: +39 02 72094900Fax: +39 02 [email protected]

Estetica ItaliaEdizioni EsavVia Cavour, 5010123 Torino (Italy)Tel.: +39 011 83921111Fax: +39 011 [email protected]

Estetica Australia & NZEdizioni EsavVia Cavour, 5010123 Torino (Italy)Tel.: +39 011 83921249Fax: +39 011 [email protected]

Estetica BrazilRua Cunha Gago, 412 -cj. 33 Pinheiros, 3rd floor,05421-001 São Paulo SP (Brazil)Tel.: +55 11 2713 8150Fax: +55 11 30395674publicidadeesteticabrazil@duet-toeditorial.com.brwww.esteticabrazil.com.br

Estetica BulgariaStr. "Gen. Parensov" 24A apartment. 31142, Sofia (Bulgaria)Tel.: +359 2 416 85 [email protected]

Estetica ChinaG/F.Building 2,876 Jiangsu Road,Shanghai, 200052 (P.R. China)Tel.: +8621 6481 2250Fax: +8621 6481 [email protected]

Estetica Czech & SlovakStefanikova 29 811 03 Bratislava (Slovakia)Tel.: +421 02 5262 4321-3Fax: +421 02 5262 [email protected]

Estetica Deutsche AusgabeHanauer Landstraße 14760314 Frankfurt (Germany) Tel.: +49 69 42 72 82 669Fax: +49 69 42 72 82 [email protected]

Estetica EspañaPlaza Dr. Letamendi, 3, 2°, 1a08007 Barcelona (Spain)Tel.: +34 93 2265910Fax : +34 93 [email protected]

Estetica France5, rue du Helder75009 Paris (France)Tel.: +33 1 53 24 53 24Fax: +33 1 [email protected]

Estetica Hellas43 Mikras Asias Str.,152 33, Athens (Greece)Tel.: +30 210 7712400Fax: +30 210 [email protected]

Estetica IndiaUnit No. F2B, 2nd floorMira Corporate Suites, Plot No. 1&2,Ishwar Nagar, Mathura Road,New Delhi – 110065 (India)Tel.: +91 11 43011111Fax: +91 11 [email protected]

Estetica IndonesiaJl. H.R. Rasuna Said Blok B, Kav 32-33Jakarta 12910 (Indonesia)Tel.: +62 21 526 6666 ext. 4285Fax: +62 21 520 [email protected]

Estetica KoreaCM Building D 3rd Floor379-26 Hwagok 7dongGangseo-gu, Seoul (South Korea)Tel.: +82 2 26952255Fax: +82 2 [email protected]

Estetica MéxicoCalle Coporo n.4 int.7 Col. Centro52900 Atizapan de ZaragozaEdo. de México (Mexico)Tel./Fax: +52 55 [email protected]

Estetica Middle EastEdizioni EsavVia Cavour, 5010123 Torino (Italy)Tel.: +39 011 83921249Fax: +39 011 [email protected]

Estetica Polskaul. Trakt Lubelski 40c04-870 Warszawa (Poland)Tel: + 48 601 620 455Fax: + 48 22 490 94 [email protected]

Estetica PortugalAv. Forças ArmadasN°4-S/L/4-B1600-082 Lisboa (Portugal)Tel.: +351 21 7614500Fax:+351 21 [email protected]

Estetica Romaniaand Republic of Moldova31, Tudor Vladimirescu BlvdFed Print Building, 1st floorSector 5, 050883 Bucharest (Romania)Tel.: +4021 317 90 [email protected]

Estetica RussiaZvezdnyi Blvd., 21 building 3, 6-th floorMoscow 129085 (Russia)Tel. +7 495 6163271Fax +7 495 [email protected]

Estetica South Africa2nd Floor, Bree Street Studios, No 17 New Church Street, Cape Town (South Africa)Tel: +27 86 000 9590Fax: +27 21 423 [email protected]

Estetica The NetherlandsWakkerendijk 36bNL - 3755 DC Eemnes(The Netherlands)Tel.: +31 35 6565313Mob.: +31 653 [email protected]

Estetica TurkeyFulya Mh., Ortaklar Cad. Kanat Apt. No.42C-1Sisli 34394Istanbul (Turkey)Tel.: +90 212 272 02 70Fax: +90 212 275 22 [email protected]

Estetica UK4 Bloomsbury Sq, London WC1A 2RL (Great Britain)Tel.: +44 20 7430 2904 [email protected]

Estetica USA139 South Pebble Beach BlvdSuite 107Sun City CenterFlorida, 33573(U.S.A.)Tel./Fax: +1 813 633-2444 [email protected]

ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL NETWORK


Directory20th.indd 2 2012/11/26 1:24 PM

SAVE20%

ESTETICA SA is the world’s leading hair, beauty and fashion magazine. Over 128 pages dedicated to the best in local and international talent, trends and news.

ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate, while showcasing relevant ethnic hair and beauty trends.

COLOUR & TECHNIQUE supplement presents flexible looks, dynamic colours and the technical details on how to create the looks in step-by-step illustrations.

FEATURES dedicated to informing readers about industry topics, trends and relevant business and product information.

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N° 20/12 EDITION

COLLECTIONPony Express

FEATUREGoing Green

GALLERYClose-up with Le Mindu

Enter the ESTETICA

digital world.The future is now!

WEB

SOCIAL MEDIA

www.estetica.co.za

www.facebook.com/Esteticasouthafrica

www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA


INTERVIEWBonang Matheba

COLLECTIONKim Johnson

MizaniInecto

EVENTIntercoiffure

Education For Life

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HE BOOM IN THE NATURAL, ORGANIC AND ECO-FRIENDLY INDUSTRY HAS SIGNALLED A SHIFT IN THE PRODUCTION, MARKETING AND MANUFACTURING OF BEAUTY AND HAIR PRODUCTS. IN

THIS FEATURE WE DISCOVER WHAT ALTERNATIVES ARE AVAILABLE AND WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR. ESTETICA SA ALSO GAINS INSIGHT INTO THE STEPS COMPANIES WITHIN THE INDUSTRY HAVE

TAKEN TO DECREASE THEIR IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT. T

Going Green

4 Quarterlymagazines

+ Additional newsletters+ Colour & Technique Supplement

+2 ESTETICA AFRO magazines = R350

ESTETICA SA is the essential business tool for every salon, creative mind and industry professional. To subscribe to ESTETICA SA or renew your current subscription log onto our website or contact Ingrid on 086 000 9590.

www.facebook.com/esteticasouthafricawww.twitter.com/@Estetica_SA

www.estetica.co.za

This is what you receive:

S T O C K I S T S

AAhava (021) 785 2650Atmosphere (021) 461 2117, www.atmosphere.co.za

BBadger (021) 785 2650Balm Balm (021) 785 2650Bema Bio (021) 785 2650

CCatrice (011) 484 9088Chanel (021) 442 7700Colorsmash (032) 586 1046Couleur Caramel (021) 785 2650

DDavines (011) 646 2420

EEco.kid (011) 484 9088EcoProducts (021) 701 7172 Essie (011) 447 0659Estée Lauder www.esteelauder.co.za

Gghd (021) 461 2117, www.ghdhair.co.zaGoldwell (011) 312 5070

HHead Quarters (011) 839 0009, www.headquarters.co.za

IInglot (011) 447 3904

KKeune (011) 791 3644Kiehl’s (011) 286 0958KMS california (011) 312 5070

LL’Oréal Professionnel (011) 286 0700, www.loreal.co.za

MMoroccanoil (011) 305 1600

PPhysicians Formula (021) 785 2650

OOPI (011) 305 1600

RRalph Lauren (011) 888 8548 Redken (011) 286 0700

SSchwarkopf Professional (011) 203 0700

TThe Prestige Cosmetics Group (021) 442 7700Tigi (011) 305 1600Trevarno (021) 785 2650Twincare International (011) 305 1600, www.twincare.co.za

UUltrasun (071) 228 6093

Availability was checked at the time of going to press. ESTETICA SA cannot guarantee that items will be in stock at the time of publication.


stockists-20th.indd 1 2012/11/26 1:24 PM

JHB office Tel: +27(0)11 839 0009/10/12Fax: +27(0)11 839 0015

Email: [email protected]@headquarters.co.za

Durban office: +27(0)31 312 5680 Email: [email protected] s i n c e 1 9 9 1

www.headquarters.co.za

L E AV I N G O U R C O M P E T I T I O N G R E E N W I T H E N V Y

Find us on:Head Quarters_SA

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estetica 20th edtion -full version

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