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= Estimating &Installation

Manual

ANCHORWALL.COM

1-877-295-5415

FEATURING HIGHLAND STONE® PRODUCTS

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2TERMS USED IN THIS MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4FREE STANDING WALL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6FREE STANDING WALL SYSTEM

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8FREE STANDING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

Columns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Pilasters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

RETAINING WALL SYSTEMSHighland Stone® Retaining Wall System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Patterns for Highland Stone Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Diamond Stone Cut™ Retaining Wall System . . . . . . . 18Diamond Pro Stone Cut™ Retaining Wall System . . 20

RETAINING WALL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

RETAINING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILSRunning Bond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Capping a Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Drainage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Stepping Up Base Course . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Abutting Existing Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Inside Curves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Outside Corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Outside Curves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Inside 90° Corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Terraces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Fences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Water Applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Jumper Unit Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Installation with Reinforcement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

REINFORCEMENT ESTIMATING CHARTS, HIGHLAND STONE, DIAMOND® ANDDIAMOND STONE CUTNo Slope or Surcharge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39Surcharge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403:1 Crest Slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41DIAMOND PRO® AND DIAMOND PRO STONE CUTNo Slope or Surcharge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Surcharge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433:1 Crest Slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

RETAINING WALL MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Landscapes with character don’t just happen. Today’sproperty owners are willing to invest in exceptionaloutdoor living areas and look to their landscape contractorand/or designer for ideas on how to create the perfectoutdoor living environment.

Outdoor areas of any size or shape can be transformedwith Anchor Wall Systems products. Colors, shapes,patterns and textures of Anchor products blend with the environment and create attractive, usable landscapefeatures where steep hillsides, gentle slopes or simplyordinary space had been. No matter what the project,Anchor retaining wall systems and free standing wallsystems enhance landscapes and increase property value.According to an Anchor Wall Systems survey, 75 percent of consumers think retaining walls increase their propertyvalues as much as 15 percent.

Owners of commercial property often add purely aestheticfeatures to functional landscaping. Retaining walls arefrequently necessary to develop buildable land space (e.g.,eliminating a slope to create space for a building or parking).Free standing walls can be used for traffic separation or tocreate additional public seating. Landscaping is also used tocreate leisure and recreational space for hotels, schools andparks. A well-designed landscape also elevates the prestige of a commercial property.

HOW TO USE THIS MANUALThis manual is designed to provide you with ideas as well as information on product use, estimating and installation procedures. Because actual project conditionsvary, final wall design, including the incorporation ofgeosynthetic reinforcement, must be performed by a qualified engineer. While this manual provides generalguidelines, installation contractors should refer toconstruction drawings provided by a qualified localengineer for final specifications.

Additional installation information is available online atwww.anchorwall.com. Installation instructions are alsoavailable in video or DVD format for Diamond, HighlandStone and Diamond Pro. Information includes basic wallconstruction as well as other applications, including:

inside and outside 90° corners terraced walls

inside and outside radii water applications

various steps fences

cap placement guard rails

To obtain a copy of the installation video or DVD, contactyour local Anchor Wall Systems dealer or manufacturer orcontact Anchor Wall Systems at 1-877-295-5415.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

For more information visit www.anchorwall.com.


BEFORE YOU BEGIN/RETAINING WALL BASICS

ESTIMATING FORMULASIn the Product Details section for each product, there areformulas for estimating the wall and cap units as well asother materials needed to install a wall. Abbreviations forthe information used in each formula are explained withthe formula. There is also an example provided showinghow each formula is used.

BEFORE INSTALLATIONBEGINSAdvance planning and careful layout at the job site helpensure a successful retaining wall project.

Review the site plan to confirm lot lines, wall location,length and elevations.

Understand on-site soils. Ideal soils are sand and gravel.For walls built in clay or poor soils, work with a localengineer to confirm the wall design and the required soil reinforcement. Black or organic soils should not be used as infill.

Confirm the location of underground utilities.

Seek all necessary building permits.

Prepare a drawing of the site with the wall location,lengths and elevations.

Plan drainage to avoid erosion or buildup of waterbehind the wall. Consider where the water will drainthrough the wall, where downspouts will expel andwhether there’s an underground sprinkler. For wallsgreater than three feet in height, a perforated drain pipe is recommended at the base of the aggregate toquickly remove large amounts of water. See page 28 for more information on water management.

Check the block delivered to ensure it is the correct color.Check the geogrid to confirm that it’s the strength andweight specified in the engineering plans.

Be sure to use the right tools. Hand tools include a shovel, 4-foot level, dead blow hammer, 2- or 3-poundhammer, chisel, hand tamper, hydraulic splitter andstring line. Power tools include a circular saw with amasonry blade and a compactor.

Always wear protective eyewear.

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RETAINING WALL BASICSSegmental retaining walls typically fall into one of two categories.

GRAVITY RETAINING WALLThe first category – a gravity wall – is a retaining wall thatdoes not use soil reinforcement. A gravity wall has heightlimitations specific to each product. An advantage of thistype of retaining wall is that it requires a smaller work areabehind the wall. A gravity wall relies on the weight andsetback of the block to resist the soil forces being exertedon the wall.

GEOSYNTHETIC-REINFORCED RETAINING WALLThe second category is a geosynthetic-reinforced wall, which needs to be designed by a qualified engineer. With areinforced retaining wall there are (theoretically) no heightlimitations, and they are used in larger applications. Theyrequire more work area behind the structure. The block of soil is stabilized by introducing reinforcement layers into the soil mass behind the facing units. The larger thestabilized soil mass, the more soil can be retained or heldback. The geosynthetic reinforcement in the soil extendspast the theoretical failure plane and serves to create alarge, rectangular mass of block and soil, restraining theretained soil.

To make the results of the formulas more obvious in each example, they have been underlined.

Example: The total wall is 50 feet long and 4 feet high.Length (L) of the wall x height (H) = square feet (SF). 50' x 4' = 200 SF. Top soil

Drainageaggregate

Drain pipeLeveling pad

Filter fabric

Abbreviations are explained in their first use.

Topsoil

Filter fabric

Drainageaggregate

Leveling pad Drainpipe

Geosyntheticreinforcement

Reinforcedsoil zone

Lowpermeablesoil

TERMS USED IN THIS MANUAL

ACTIVE SOILSThe soil behind the wall that will theoretically move.

AT-REST SOILSThe soil behind the wall that will theoretically not move.

BACKFILLThe soil used to fill the excavated area behind the wall.

BASE COURSEA full course of blocks which are buried so that the top islevel with grade.

BATTERThe facing angle created by segmental retaining wall(SRW) unit setback, measured from a vertical line drawnfrom the toe of the wall, expressed in degrees. The batteron both Diamond® and Highland Stone® is 10.6°. Thebatter on Diamond Pro® is 7.3°.

BENCH CUTA horizontal cut across a slope. Commonly used whenbuilding steps into an existing slope.

COLUMNA vertical pillar, generally used as a support for a wall orother structure. Columns made of Highland Stone® FreeStanding Wall units can be used independently or as asupport for a free standing wall. In this manual, columnssurround or end walls. See page 10 for constructiondetails about columns.

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Designed for the compaction of a widerange of soil types. This multipurposecompactor can be used for tasks like base preparation.

Designed for the compaction of granular and mixed soils. Their light-weight and compact design allowsthese machines to work in confinedareas. They can only compact verysmall lifts of soil (3 to 4 inches).

Suitable for compactionof mixed-granular soils ina very small area.

COMPACTIONCompressing or densifying the soil material used for baseand backfill. Use a manual or self-propelled compactor. Seeexamples below.

CONNECTION STRENGTH TESTINGTesting establishing the relationship between a specific SRW unit and a specific type of geosyntheticreinforcement.

COURSEThe horizontal layers of blocks used to build a wall.

CREST SLOPEAngle of the soil above the wall usually expressed as a ratio such as 3:1 (3 feet horizontal to 1 foot vertical).

DRAINAGE AGGREGATEDrainage fill placed within and immediately behind theSRW units, and in other areas, for drainage.

FINESThe smaller particles of aggregate.

FOUNDATION SOILThe soil that supports the leveling pad and the reinforcedsoil zone of a soil-reinforced SRW system.

FREE STANDING WALL (FSW)A free standing wall, also called a double-sided wall, is avertical wall which does not retain soil.

SINGLE-DIRECTION PLATE COMPACTOR TAMPERS OR JUMPING JACKS REMOTE-CONTROL TRENCH COMPACTOR


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GEOGRIDA synthetic material formed into a grid-like structure for use in soil reinforcement. Usually comprised ofpolypropylene, polyester or polyethylene.

GEOSYNTHETICA generic term used to describe synthetic or plastic materials used in soil, such as fabrics, geogrids, drainagecomposites or erosion-control mats.

GEOTEXTILEA textile-like material used in soil drainage and reinforce-ment applications. Usually comprised of polypropylene orpolyester, it can be woven or non-woven.

GLOBAL STABILITYResistance to overall mass movement of the SRW system in a circular or sliding mode. May be a problem with tieredwalls, walls with weak foundation soils, and walls with aslope at the top or bottom.

GRADEGround level.

GRAVITY WALLA retaining wall that does not use soil reinforcement. A gravity wall relies on the weight and setback of the blockto resist the soil forces that are being exerted on the wall.

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATEA compactible, free-draining granular soil to facilitatecompaction and drainage. We suggest using 3⁄4-inch minusaggregate (with fines) as the pad or base material.

LEVELING PAD OR BASEThe level surface (gravel or concrete) used to distribute the weight of the dry-stacked column of SRW units over a wider foundation area and to provide a working surfaceduring construction.

LOAD, DEADA permanent surcharge on a wall that can provide lateralpressure against the wall as well as vertical forcedownward on the wall mass.

LOAD, LIVEA transient surcharge that can vary during the life of thestructure. A live load is assumed to provide lateral pressurebut not vertical pressure.

OVERTURNINGAn external stability failure mechanism of a SRW wherebylateral external forces cause the entire reinforced soil massto rotate about the base.

PERMEABLE SOILA soil that allows water to move through it at an appreciable rate.

PILLARA firm upright support for a superstructure.

PILASTERAn upright architectural member that projects from thewall. See page 11 for construction details about pilasters.

PROCTOR (DENSITY)A method for determining the moisture-density relationship in soils subjected to compaction.

REINFORCED SOIL ZONEThe area of a soil-reinforced SRW which contains the soil reinforcement.

RETAINED SOIL ZONEThe area of a soil-reinforced SRW which is immediatelybehind the reinforced zone.

RUNNING BONDA staggered vertical alignment used to create a consistentpattern. It may be necessary to use split or partial units tomaintain a running bond.

SEGMENTAL RETAINING WALL (SRW)A wall system built with modular blocks to retain soil.

SLIDINGAn external and internal stability failure mechanism of anSRW whereby lateral external forces cause the entire soilmass to slide forward along its base or internally along aparticular layer of soil reinforcement.

STEPPING UP THE WALL BASEMethod used to maintain a level wall on a slope. See page 29 for more information.

SURCHARGEExternal load, usually applied at the top of a SRW. Aroadway or building foundation can be a surcharge.

SWALEA small ditch or depression formed on top and behind theSRW system to collect water and carry it away.

TERRACED WALLSThere are independent and dependent terraces. See page 36for more information about building terraces.

THEORETICAL INTERNAL FAILURE PLANEThe line that separates active soils from the at-rest soils.

TOE SLOPEAngle of the soil in front of the wall usually expressed as aratio such as 3:1 (3 feet horizontal to 1 foot vertical).

HIGHLAND STONE®FREE STANDING WALL

COLUMN EXTRA LARGE CAP

Approximate Dimensions* 6" x 18" x 9" Front, 3" x 18" x 13"

Back, 3" x 12" x 13"

Approximate Weight* 75 lbs. 44 lbs.

Coverage 1.25 linear ft.

LARGE MEDIUM SMALL

Approximate Dimensions* Front, 6" x 18" x 9" Front, 6" x 12" x 9" Front, 6" x 6" x 9"

Back, 6" x 16" x 9" Back, 6" x 10" x 9" Back, 6" x 4" x 9"

Approximate Weight* 70 lbs. 45 lbs. 20 lbs.

Coverage .71 sq. ft. .46 sq. ft. .21 sq. ft.

*Actual dimensions and weights may vary from these approximate dimensionsand weights due to variations in manufacturing processes. Specifications maychange without notice. See your Anchor representative for details, color options,block dimensions and additional information.

Provide more seating in a small patio with a Highland Stone® Free Standing Wall.See page 13 for more information about capping a column.

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PRODUCT DETAILSAvailable in three different face lengths for a random look

Can be used for straight or curved walls

Use as seating areas, borders and courtyards

Can be used for walls up to 3 feet high, including buried course

Columns or pilasters constructed with the pillar units can be built up to 6 feet high, including buried course

Minimum radius using all three units: 3.75 feet

Maximum straight wall length between design elements: 10 feet

Structural design elements include jog, 90° corner, column, pilaster or 7-foot radius at least 11 feet long

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ESTIMATING FORMULAS

PROJECT ESTIMATING EXAMPLEThe project is a 25-foot-long straight wall that is 2.5 feet high. There are three columns that are 3 feet high.

STRAIGHT EXPOSED WALL UNITS25' L x 2' H = 50 SF ÷ 1.4 = 36 large, medium and small units for exposed wall

BURIED BASE UNITS25' L ÷ 1.4 = 18 large units for buried base

TOTAL WALL UNITS NEEDEDLarge: Buried base units 18+ Exposed wall units 36Total units 54

Medium 36Small 36

COLUMN UNITS3' x 8 = 24 column units per column

Total column units needed per column 24x Number of columns 3Total column units 72

CAP UNITSLI example: 25' x 12 = 300CF example: 18" + 12" = 30" ÷ 2 = 15Project example: 300 ÷ 15 = 20 caps for wall

WALL LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE25' L x 1.75' W x .5' D ÷ 27 x 1.1 = .9 CY .9 CY x 1.6 = 1.5 tons

COLUMN/PILASTER LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE3.25' x 3.25' x .5' = 5.28 ÷ 27 x 1.1 = .22 CY aggregate per column. 1.6 x .22= .35 tons of leveling pad aggregate per column

Tons per column .35x Number of columns 3Tons aggregate 1.1

For project material estimating, use the formulas listed in each step.

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COLUMN OR PILASTER LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE ESTIMATING Leveling pad material is a compactible basematerial of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines). Theleveling pad for a 27- x 27-inch column or pilaster is 39 inches square and at least 6 inchesdeep after compaction.

(L x W x D) ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons

WALL UNIT ESTIMATINGStraight WallsDetermine the square footage of the exposed wall.Exposed wall is length (L) x height (H) = squarefeet (SF). SF ÷ 1.4 = # units of each size forexposed wall.

SF ÷ 1.4 = # units of each size for exposed wall

Curved WallsThe buried course of a curve requires the same kindof blocks as used in the pattern above ground. Thesquare footage of the inside radius is slightly lessthan the square footage of the outside radius.When estimating, measure the outside wall face.Square footage (SF), including base course, ÷ by1.25. When estimating a curved wall, skip step 2.

SF ÷ 1.25 = # units of each size

BURIED BASE UNIT ESTIMATINGUse the large units for the buried base whenbuilding straight walls. Divide the wall length (L)by 1.4 to determine the number of large unitsneeded for the base of a straight wall.

L ÷ 1.4 = # large units for buried base

COLUMN UNIT QUANTITY ESTIMATINGEstimate the quantity needed for a column bymultiplying the height (H) in feet, including theburied course, x 8.

H x 8 = # units per column

CAP ESTIMATINGConvert wall length to inches. Wall length (L) x 12= L in inches (LI). The cap factor (CF) = cap frontinches + cap back inches ÷ 2.

LI ÷ CF = # caps for wall

For curved walls, add 10 percent. If you are usingwall caps for the column, multiply the number ofcaps needed per column by the number ofcolumns you are building.

WALL LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE ESTIMATING Leveling pad material is a compactible basematerial of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines). The levelingpad extends at least 6 inches in front of andbehind the wall units and is at least 6 inches deepafter compaction. [Wall length in feet (L) x levelingpad width in feet (W) x leveling pad depth in feet(D)] ÷ 27 x 1.1 = cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

(L x W x D) ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons



PREPARE LEVELING PADExcavate for the leveling pad. The trench should be aminimum of 21 inches wide and should be 6 inches deeper than the block. See Diagram 1.

Create a leveling pad of compacted base material thatextends a minimum of 6 inches in front of and 6 inchesbehind the wall units. This pad should also be at least 6inches deep after compaction.

BASE COURSEOnce the pad is compact and level, begin placing the units.Center the units on the pad. The ends of the units shouldbe in contact. The base course must be buried below gradeand should be included when calculating total wall height.See Diagram 2.

BUILDING THE WALLUnits can be placed in any order to form an aestheticallypleasing layout. The simplest is one that incorporates large,medium and small units. The units should be installed sothe ends are in complete contact with each other.Remember to keep the wall on bond by placing units in astaggered relationship to the course beneath. Repeat thisprocess to complete the wall. Remember to glue the toptwo courses and caps in place with a concrete adhesive.

ENDING A WALLSplit a large unit into pieces sized as needed. Do not use pieces smaller than 6 inches wide. If needed, cut the second-to-last piece and make the last piece theappropriate size. Smaller pieces should be glued into place with a concrete adhesive. After splitting the endpiece, use a hammer and chisel to create a roundedappearance to match the manufactured split blocks.

CAPPING A WALLSee page 24 for details about capping a wall.

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Base Course It’s easiest to build the base course for a straight wall out of large Free Standing Wall units.

Next Course

Diagram 2

A Highland Stone® Free Standing Wall provides additional poolside seating when entertaining.


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FREE STANDING WALL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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SplitSplit

Course A Course B

For a curved wall, use all three unit sizes.

A radius of 7 feet or less isconsidered a design elementif it is one quarter of the circumference of the circlewhich would be made by that radius (11 feet of a circle with a 7-foot radius).

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STRUCTURALDESIGN ELEMENTSStructural design elements must be used if a free standingwall is more than 10 feet long. Structural design elementsinclude:

7-foot radius for 11 feet Jog90° cornerColumnPilaster

Construction details for columns and pilasters are on pages10 through 13.

CURVED WALLSAdd stability and a natural flow to walls with curves. While units can be turned somewhat, it may be necessaryto make cuts with a concrete saw or splitter. As a rule, thesmaller the units, the tighter the radius. Conversely, thelarger the units, the larger the radius. Use approximatelythe same number of units for each course. The approxi-mate minimum radius the system can turn, using all threepieces without cutting, is 3.75 feet measured to theoutside face of the wall.

FREE STANDING WALL JOG

Jogs are used to break up straight lines and add stability to walls. Split units as needed. Use hammer and chisel to round split faces. Glue all courses of jog with a concrete adhesive.

90° CORNER

To create a 90° corner in a straight wall, make a third sideto a large unit by splitting it to the appropriate dimension.Use only large units to assure connecting units are onbond. Alternate the direction the units face with eachcourse. Round the split ends with a hammer and chisel.Glue all corner courses with a concrete adhesive.

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COLUMNSWhen used with a free standing wall, a column increaseswall stability. Placing fixtures on columns is also a greatway to incorporate lighting. Columns can be located in the middle or at the end of a wall. The open space in thecenter of a column permits reinforcement or electricalwiring if needed. The column leveling pad should extend 6 inches beyond each column edge and be at least 6 inchesdeep after compaction.

COLUMN AT END OF WALLTo build columns at the end of a wall, cut one column unit in half for the second, fourth and additional even-numbered courses. Stack column units in a rotatingpattern for each course so that the bond is staggered. One column unit half is used every two courses. Glue each course of column units with a concrete adhesive.Integrate wall into column as shown to increase stability.

WALL THROUGH COLUMNOn the first course, use complete column units to start thecolumn and cut the wall units to fit. On the second course,cut two column units in half to fill in the corners. Continueconstruction by alternating courses. Glue all columncourses with a concrete adhesive.

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A Highland Stone® Free Standing Wall with columns is a great way to enclose an outdoor room and provide support for a privacy screen and pergola.

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90° CORNER AT COLUMNFrequently, a 90° turn is made at a column. To build thiscolumn, cut one column unit per course. Stack columnunits in a rotating pattern for each course. Glue eachcourse of column units with a concrete adhesive.

PILASTER IN RUNNING WALLPilasters add stability and elegance to a wall. They arelocated on one side of a wall. To build a pilaster, stackcolumn units in a rotating pattern for each course. Cut wall units as indicated. Glue each course of units in the pilaster with a concrete adhesive.

PILASTER AT END OF WALLTo build a pilaster at the end of a wall, stack three columnunits as shown for the base course. For the second course,use pillar units, stacking in a rotating pattern. Glue eachcourse of units in the pilaster with concrete adhesive.

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Tip: For information on capping a wall, see page 24.

Separate parking from plantings with a Highland Stone® Free Standing Wall. Step a wall up or down at the column.


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12SMALL PILASTER IN WALLThere are times when a pilaster of a different size isneeded. To build a smaller pilaster in the running wall, you will need to split a medium unit for the first course.Split the unit so that the pieces, combined with anothermedium unit, equal 18 inches. Place the units parallel tothe wall on the prepared leveling pad. For the secondcourse, split a large and medium unit so that they equal18 inches. Split a second set of large and medium units to make a second 18-inch section. Insert these unitsperpendicular to the wall as shown. Glue all courses.Round the split ends with a hammer and chisel.

SMALL PILASTER AT END OF WALLTo build a smaller pilaster at the end of a running free standing wall, you will need to split 4 units for the first course. Split a large and small unit so they equal 18 inches. Split a second set of units to make a second 18-inch section. Insert the unit sets perpendicular to thewall on the prepared leveling pad.

For the second course, center a medium unit over thepilaster base units as shown. Split another unit so that thebond on the course below is staggered. Round the splitends with a hammer and chisel. Glue all pilaster units witha concrete adhesive.

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13COLUMN WITH LARGEHIGHLAND STONE® RETAINING WALL UNITS

To build a 30-inch column, split two medium wall units in half. Stack column units in a rotating pattern for eachcourse. Glue each course of unitswith a concrete adhesive. Roundthe split ends with a hammer andchisel. For more information aboutHighland Stone retaining wallproducts, see page 14.

CAPPING A COLUMNThere are numerous ways to cap a column. You can usecap units, single-piece units or natural stone. Here aresome options.

Using an Extra Large Cap

This capping treatment requires 8 extra large trapezoidalcap units. (For other cap dimensions, please contact yourdealer for specific instructions.) Each unit is cut as shown.Top with the 5-inch square coupon. Use concrete adhesiveto glue all pieces when cap is complete.

Using a Large Cap

This capping treatment requires 8 large trapezoidal capunits. Each unit is cut as shown. Top with the 10-inchsquare coupon. Use concrete adhesive to glue all pieceswhen cap is complete.

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Spilt 5" x 5" couponfor center of finishedcap system fromremaining material

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Coupon (glue to topsof lower cap system)

Cap Placement Coupon

28"

14"3.25"

FREE STANDING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

MD MD MD MD

MD MDMD MD

LARGE CAP

EXTRA LARGE CAP

13"

5"

4"

10"

10"

4"3.25"

12"1.5"

Lights are the perfect way to top off a column. Drill a hole in the coupon and run wiring through the hollow column core.

3"

Cut lines Split lines


CAPPING A WALLSee page 24 for details about capping a wall.

*May vary depending on the installation pattern.**Actual dimensions and weights may vary from these approximate dimensions and weights due to variations in manufacturing processes.

Specifications may change without notice. See your Anchor representative for details, color options, block dimensions and additional information.***Large unit features a partial core. Specifications may vary by region.

****Availability may vary by region.

14

LARGE*** MEDIUM SMALL

Approximate Dimensions** 6" x 18" x 12" 6" x 12" x 12" 6" x 6" x 12"

Approximate Weight** 73 lbs. 59 lbs. 30 lbs.


Setback/Batter 11⁄8" / 10.6° 11⁄8" / 10.6° 11⁄8" / 10.6°

NO PINSNO MORTARNO MISALIGNMENTS

Our patented rear-lip technology makes installationefficient and accurate.

CAP JUMPER STEP

Approximate Dimensions** Front, 3" x 18" x 13" 12" x 6" x 131⁄4" 6" x 16" x 12"

Back, 3" x 12" x 13"


Coverage 1.25 linear ft. .50 sq. ft.

Setback/Batter 11⁄8” / 10.6°

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LARGE MEDIUM SMALL

Approximate Dimensions** 3" x 18" x 111⁄2" 3" x 12" x 111⁄2" 3" x 6" x 111⁄2"



Setback/Batter 9⁄16" / 10.6° 9⁄16" / 10.6° 9⁄16" / 10.6°

3INCH

6INCH

ACCESSORIES*** *

PRODUCT DETAILSAvailable in two heights and three face lengths

Can be used for gravity walls up to 4 feet high, including buried course

Taller walls can be built with geosynthetic reinforcement when designed by a qualified engineer

Minimum outside radius, measured on the top course to the back of the units: 4 feet*

Minimum inside radius, measured on the base course to the front of the units: 8 feet*

HIGHLAND STONE®RETAINING WALL SYSTEM


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15ESTIMATING FORMULASPROJECT ESTIMATING EXAMPLEThe wall is 50 feet long and 4 feet high, built with 3- and 6-inch units combined. There is no toe orcrest slope, and the soils are clean sand and gravel.

EXPOSED WALL UNITS50' L x 3.5' H = 175 SF ÷ 2.25 =

78 units of each sizeBURIED BASE UNITS50' L ÷ 1.5 = 34 6-inch-high large units

TOTAL UNITS REQUIRED6-inch-high unitsLarge units Wall 78

Base 34Total 112

Medium units 78Small units 78

3-inch-high unitsLarge, medium, small 78

CAP UNITSLI example: 50' L x 12" = 600"CF example: 18" + 12" = 30" ÷ 2 = 15Project example: 600" ÷ 15 = 40 caps needed

FILTER FABRIC 50' L x 4' H = 200 SF ÷ 9 = 23 square yardsfabric needed

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE50' L ÷ 27 = 1.85 x 1.1 = 2.1 CY x 1.6 = 3.3 tons needed

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE50' L x 4' H = 200 SF ÷ 27 x 1.1 = 8.15 CY x 1.6 = 13.1 tons needed

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENTSee reinforcement estimating charts on pages 39 to 41 for variations in soil and site conditions.

For project material estimating, use the formulas listed in each step.

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The combination of Highland Stone® 3- and 6-inch units and the jumper unit provide a variety of design options. Turn to page 16 for new installation patterns.

EXPOSED WALL UNIT ESTIMATINGDetermine the square footage of the exposed wall:Exposed wall length (L) x height (H) = square feet (SF).

6-INCH UNITS USED ALONESF ÷ 1.5 = # units each size

3-INCH UNITS USED ALONESF ÷ .75 = # units each size

3- AND 6-INCH UNITS COMBINEDSF ÷ 2.25 = # units each size

BURIED BASE UNIT ESTIMATINGBuild buried base course using 6-inch large units.Determine the length (L) of the base in feet.

L ÷ 1.5 = # 6-inch large units

CAP ESTIMATINGConvert wall length (L) to inches: L x 12 = L ininches (LI). Cap factor (CF) = cap front inches +cap back inches ÷ 2. For curved wall, add 10%.

LI ÷ CF = # caps

FILTER FABRIC ESTIMATINGNon-woven, 4- to 6-ounce filter fabric. Determine the SF of total wall.

SF ÷ 9 = square yards fabric

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGLeveling pad aggregate is a compactible basematerial of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines). The levelingpad is a minimum of 6 inches in front of andbehind the wall units and 6 inches deep aftercompaction. Wall length (L) in feet ÷ 27 x 1.1 =cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

L ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGDrainage aggregate is clear 1-inch crushed stone(with no fines). The drainage column extends 12inches behind the wall units. Wall length (L) in feetx total wall height (H) in feet = SF ÷ 27 x 1.1 =cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

SF ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENT ESTIMATINGSee reinforcement estimating charts on pages 39to 41 for variations in soil and site conditions.


HIGHLAND STONE® RETAINING WALL SYSTEM

HIGHLAND STONE®

RETAINING WALL PATTERNS16H

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HIGHLAND STONE® 6-INCH BLOCK PATTERN

Base

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3"x18"3"x18" 3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"3"x18"

3"x18"

6"x18"6"x18"

6"x18"6"x18"

3"x18"6"x18"6"x18" 6"x18"

6"x18"6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6" 3"x6"

6"x6"6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6" 6"x6"

3"x12"

3"x12"3"x12"

3"x12"3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12"

18" 18" 18" 18" 18" 18"

6"

8"

16"

12"

8"

4"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

BASE COURSE

Base

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6 3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

3"x18"

6"x18"

6"x18"6"x18"

6"x18"

6"x18" 6"x18"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12"

6"x12"

6"x12"

6"x18"6"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6" 6"x6" 6"x6"

6"x6"6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x18"

3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12" 3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x6"

You can install the Highland Stone® system in a randompattern using any combination of units. Just avoid vertical lines that span more than 1 foot in height.

If you are building a wall without geosynthetic reinforcement, use a pattern for inspiration or follow apattern exactly. Pleasing random patterns can be builtusing an equal number of 3- and 6-inch-high blocks orusing an equal square footage of blocks in each size. Theestimating formulas on page 15 are based on using anequal number of blocks of each size in each height.

When building a wall that includes geosynthetic reinforcement, using a pattern at the appropriate spacingeliminates the need to cut the grid. When using a pattern,begin at one edge laying the blocks as indicated. Install atleast one repeat of the pattern to establish the patternbefore proceeding to the next course.

24-INCH BY 9-FOOT PATTERNThis illustrates a 24-inch-high by 9-foot-long repeating pattern.When your plan requires reinforcement, this pattern is idealbecause it eliminates cutting.

WHEN TO USE A PATTERN

HIGHLAND STONE® 3- AND 6-INCH BLOCKCOMBINATION PATTERNS

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17HIGHLAND STONE® RETAINING WALL PATTERNS

18-INCH BY 6-FOOT PATTERNThis illustrates an 18-inch-high by 6-foot-long repeating pattern. When your plan requires reinforcement,this pattern is ideal because it eliminates cutting.

12-INCH BY 9-FOOT PATTERNThis illustrates a 12-inch-high by 9-foot-long repeatingpattern. When your plan requires reinforcement, this pattern is ideal because it eliminates cutting.

CUTTING GRIDGrid can be cut if needed. See page 38 for more information about cutting grid.

Base

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6"x6"

6"x6"

6"x6" 3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12"

3"x12" 3"x18"

3"x18" 3"x18" 3"x18"

6"x12" 6"x12"

6"x12" 6"x12"

6"x18" 6"x18" 6"x18"

6"x18"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6"

3"x6" 6"x6"

Base

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2

3

6"x6" 3"x18" 3"x18" 3"x18"

3"x18"

6"x18" 6"x12" 6"x12" 3"x12"

3"x12" 3"x12"

3"x12" 6"x12" 6"x12"

6"x6"

6"x6" 3"x6" 3"x6" 3"x6"

3"x6"

6"x6" 6"x18" 6"x18" 6"x18"

3"x18"

3"x12" 3"x12" 6"x18"

6"x18"

6"x12" 6"x18" 3"x6"

3"x6" 6"x12" 6"x12" 6"x6" 6"x6" 3"x12"

6"x6" 3"x6"

3"x12" 3"x6"

3"x18"

3"x18" 3"x18" 6"x18" 6"x6" 6"x12"

Base

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2

3

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3"x18"

3"x12" 3"x12" 6"x18"

6"x18" 6"x12" 6"x18" 3"x6"

3"x6" 6"x12" 6"x12" 6"x6" 6"x6" 3"x12"

6"x6" 3"x6"

3"x12" 3"x6" 3"x18"

3"x18" 3"x18" 6"x18" 6"x6" 6"x12"

Base

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DIAMOND STONE CUT™RETAINING WALL SYSTEM18

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PRODUCT DETAILSAvailable in casual- or formal-face styles, plus Diamond®

straight- or beveled-face style products.

Can be used for building gravity walls up to 4 feet high,including buried course

Taller walls can be built with geosynthetic reinforcementwhen designed by a qualified engineer

Minimum outside radius: Formal face, 4 feet; Casual face, 2.5 feet

Minimum inside radius: Formal face, 8 feet; Casual face, 4 feet

ICC-evaluated

EXTRA LARGE CAP STEP

Approximate Dimensions** Front, 3" x 18" x 13" 6" x 16" x 12"

Back, 3" x 12" x 13"

Approximate Weight** 44 lbs. 89 lbs.


CASUAL FACE* FORMAL FACE*

Approximate Dimensions** 6" x 157⁄8" x 12" 6" x 173⁄8" x 12"

Approximate Weight** 69 lbs. 71 lbs.

Coverage .67 sq. ft. .72 sq. ft.

Setback/Batter 11⁄8" / 10.6° 11⁄8" / 10.6°

*Unit has a partial core. Specifications may vary by region. **Actual dimensions and weights may vary from these approximate dimensions and weights due to variations in manufacturing

processes. Specifications may change without notice. See your Anchor representative for details, color options, block dimensions and additional information.

6INCH

ACCESSORIES

NO PINS NO MORTAR NO MISALIGNMENTS


The rough-hewn appearance of the Diamond Stone Cut™ causal face helped create an inviting terraced garden. Diamond® products may also be available. Check with your dealer for availability.


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ESTIMATING FORMULASFor project material estimating, use the formulas listed in each step.

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5

The clean lines of the Diamond Stone Cut™ formal face echo the architecture of this office complex.

WALL UNIT ESTIMATINGDetermine the square footage of the total wall,including buried base course. Wall square footage(SF) = length (L) x height (H).

Casual FaceSF x 1.5 = # units

Formal FaceSF x 1.4 = # units

CAP ESTIMATINGConvert wall length (L) to inches: L x 12 = L ininches (LI). Cap factor (CF) = cap front inches +cap back inches ÷ 2. (Additional caps will beneeded for elevation changes and curves.)

LI ÷ CF = # caps

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGLeveling pad aggregate is a compactible basematerial of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines). The levelingpad extends at least 6 inches in front of andbehind the wall units and is at least 6 inches deepafter compaction. Wall length in feet (L) ÷ 27 x 1.1= cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

L ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGDrainage aggregate is clear, 1-inch crushed stone(with no fines). The drainage column extends 12 inches behind the wall units. Wall length (L) xtotal wall height (H) = square feet (SF) ÷ 27 x 1.1= cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

SF ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CY CY x 1.6 = tons

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENTESTIMATINGSee pages 39 to 41. Choose the appropriateestimating chart based on your project conditions.


DIAMOND STONE CUT™ RETAINING WALL SYSTEM

PROJECT ESTIMATING EXAMPLETotal wall is 50 feet long and 4 feet high. Theproduct is casual-face units. There is no toe or crest slope, and soils are clean sand and gravel.

TOTAL WALL UNITS50' L x 4' H = 200 SF x 1.5 = 300 units

CAP UNITSLI example: 50' L x 12" = 600CF example: 17.25" + 12" = 29.25" ÷ 2 = 14.6Project example: 600 ÷ 14.6 = 42 caps

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE50' L ÷ 27 = 1.85 x 1.1 = 2.1 CY x 1.6 = 3.4 tons needed

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE50' L x 4' H = 200 SF ÷ 27 x 1.1 = 8.15 CY x 1.6= 13 tons needed

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENTSee reinforcement estimating charts on pages 39 to 41 for variations in soil and site conditions.

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DIAMOND PRO STONE CUT™RETAINING WALL SYSTEM20

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PRODUCT DETAILSAvailable in three face styles: Stone Cut™, straight and beveled

Stone Cut available in three face lengths

Can be used to build gravity walls, including buried course, up to 3 feet, 4 inches high

Taller walls can be built with geosynthetic reinforcement when designed by a qualified engineer

Large unit ICC-evaluated

CAP CORNER

Approximate Dimensions* Front, 4" x 171⁄4" x 10" 8" x 18" x 9"

Back, 4" x 10" x 10" 8" x 18" x 9"



*Actual dimensions and weights may vary from these approximate dimensions and weights due to the manufacturing process. Specificationsmay change without notice. See your Anchor representative for details,color options, block dimensions and additional information.

BEVELED FACE STRAIGHT FACE

Approximate Dimensions* 8" x 18" x 12" 8" x 18" x 12"


Coverage 1.0 sq. ft. 1.0 sq. ft.

Setback/Batter 1" / 7.13° 1" / 7.13°

Inside Radius 4' 6'

Outside Radius 4' 4'

ACCESSORIES

BEVELED AND

STRAIGHT FACE

STONE CUT™FACE

**Partial unit. 'C' represents a corner unit.

LARGE MEDIUM SMALL

Approximate Dimensions* 8" x 18" x 12" 8" x 11" x 12" 8" x 7" x 12"

Approximate Weight* 77 lbs. 45 lbs. 34 lbs.

Coverage 1.0 sq. ft. .601 sq. ft. .379 sq. ft.

Setback/Batter 1" / 7.13° 1" / 7.13° 1" / 7.13°

Minimum Radius Varies depending on the block pattern used. Minimum inside radius 4'. Minimum outside radius 7'.

NO PINS NO MORTAR NO MISALIGNMENTS


This is one of many random patterns that can be createdwith 3-piece Diamond Pro® Stone Cut.™ Virtually any configuration will work, provided you maintain a good running bond between courses.

C 7 7 11 18 18 11

7 18 11 7 C

18 18 11 11 7 7 C

11 11 7 7 18 9**C

11 9**

DIAMOND PRO® STONE CUT™ FACEINSTALLATION PATTERN

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21DIAMOND PRO STONE CUT™ RETAINING WALL SYSTEM

ESTIMATING FORMULASFor project material estimating, use the formulas listed in each step.

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7

PROJECT ESTIMATING EXAMPLEThe wall is 100 feet long and 8 feet high, includingburied course. It is built using the Stone Cut 3-piecesystem. There is no toe or crest slope, and the soilsare clean sand and gravel.

EXPOSED WALL UNITS100' L x 7.33' H = 733 SF ÷ 2 = 367large, medium and small Stone Cut units needed

BURIED BASE UNITS100' L ÷ 1.5 = 67 large units for the buried course

TOTAL UNITS REQUIREDLarge units Wall 367

Base 67Total 434

Medium units 367Small units 367

CAP UNITSCF example: 17.25" + 10" = 27.25" ÷ 2 = 13.7L example: 100' x 12" = 1,200Project example: 1,200 ÷13.7 = 88 caps

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE100' L ÷ 27 x 1.1 = 4.1 CY x 1.6 = 6.6 tons

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE800 SF ÷ 16.4 = 49 tons

CORE FILL AGGREGATE800 SF ÷ 35 = 23 tons

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENT ESTIMATINGSee pages 42 to 44 for charts. Choose the appropriate estimating chart based on yourproject conditions.

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WALL UNIT ESTIMATINGChoose the wall unit formula based on the face style.

STRAIGHT AND BEVELED WALL UNIT ESTIMATINGDetermine the square footage of the total wall,including buried course. Square footage (SF) oftotal wall is length (L) x height (H). If usingstraight or beveled, skip to step 3.

SF x 1 = # of units

EXPOSED WALL UNITS – ESTIMATING STONE CUT™ FACEDetermine the square footage of the exposed wall.Square footage (SF) of exposed wall is length (L) xheight (H).

SF ÷ 2 = # units of each size

BURIED BASE UNIT ESTIMATING – STONE CUT FACEBuild buried base course using large units.Determine the length (L) of the base in feet.

L ÷ 1.5 = # large units for buried base

CAP ESTIMATINGConvert wall length (L) to inches: L x 12 = L ininches (LI). Cap factor (CF) = cap front inches +cap back inches ÷ 2.

LI ÷ CF = # caps

LEVELING PAD AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGLeveling pad material is a compactible basematerial of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines). The levelingpad extends at least 6 inches in front of and atleast 6 inches behind the wall units and is at least6 inches deep after compaction. Wall length in feet(L) ÷ 27 x 1.1 = cubic yards (CY). CY x 1.6 = tons.

L ÷ 27 x 1.1 = CYCY x 1.6 = tons

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE ESTIMATING Drainage aggregate is clear 3⁄4- to 1-inch crushedstone (without fines). The drainage columnextends a minimum of 12 inches behind the wallunits. Wall length (L) x total wall height (H) =square feet (SF) ÷ 16.4 = tons.

SF ÷ 16.4 = tons

CORE FILL AGGREGATE ESTIMATINGCalculate the square feet (SF) of the total wall.

SF ÷ 35 = tons

GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENTESTIMATINGSee pages 42 to 44 for charts. Choose the appropriate estimating chart based on your project conditions.

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STAKE OUT THE WALLHave a surveyor stake out the wall’s placement. Verify the locations with the project supervisor.

EXCAVATIONExcavate for the leveling pad to the lines and grades shown on the approved plans and excavateenough soil behind the wall for the geosynthetic reinforcement material. The trench for the levelingpad should be at least 12 inches wider than the block you are installing and 6 inches deeper than theheight of the block. See Diagram 1.

LEVELING PADAn aggregate leveling pad is made of compactible base material of 3⁄4-inch minus (with fines).

The pad must extend at least 6 inches in front of and behind the first course of block and be at least6 inches deep after compaction.

If the planned grade along the wall front will change elevation, the leveling pad may be stepped upin 6-inch increments to match the grade change. Start at the lowest level and work upward whenev-er possible. (See page 29 for more information.)

Compact the aggregate and make sure it’s level front to back and side to side. Mist lightly with waterbefore compaction. See Diagram 2.

BASE COURSEThis is the most important step in the installation process. Bury the base course of block.

Begin laying block at the lowest elevation of the wall. Remove the rear lip of the block by hittingfrom the back so that it will lie flat on the leveling pad.

Place first block level, front to back and side to side; lay subsequent blocks in same manner.

Place the blocks side by side, flush against each other, and make sure the blocks are in full contactwith the leveling pad.

If the wall is on an incline, don’t slope the blocks; step them up so they remain consistently level.(See page 29 for more information.)

Use stringline along back edge of block to check for proper alignment.

For multiple-piece products, use the largest unit, 18 inches wide, for the base course.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE NEXT COURSEDiamond®, Diamond Stone Cut™ and Diamond Pro®

Clean any debris off the top of the blocks.

Place the second course of blocks on top of the base course. Maintain running bond. Pull each blockforward as far as possible to ensure the correct setback. See Diagram 3.

The casual face style of Diamond Stone Cut™ has a rough-hewn appearance and random shapewhich gives it a natural look. If the intent is to have a more traditional look and maintain a perfectbond, you may have to chip block edges. Pull each block forward as far as possible to ensure the correct setback. See Diagram 3.

For best results with Diamond Stone Cut, use a filter fabric, which should be placed directly behindthe wall extending from the bottom of the base course to the middle of the top course. This will minimize material coming through the rough-hewn face texture of these products. We recommend a non-woven, 4- to 6-ounce fabric. See Diagram 5.

Backfill with drainage aggregate directly behind the block, adding 6 inches at a time followed byproper compaction.

Add soil fill behind the aggregate. Compact before the next course is laid.

Don’t drive heavy equipment near the wall. Self-propelled compaction equipment should not be usedwithin 4 feet of the wall.

You’ll need partial units to stay on bond. A circular saw with a masonry blade is recommended for cut-ting partial units. Use safety glasses and other protective equipment when cutting.

If you are using a block with cores that should be filled, fill prior to laying the next course.See Diagram 4.

Highland Stone® and Diamond Pro Stone Cut™Follow instructions as noted above.

You can install these products using any combination of blocks.

Keep the wall bond by placing units in a staggered relationship to the course beneath.

See pages 16 and 17 for installation patterns for Highland Stone. See page 20 for Diamond Pro Stone Cut™ installation pattern.

For best results, use a filter fabric, which should be placed directly behind the wall extending from the bottom of the base course to the middle of thetop course. This will minimize material coming through the rough-hewn face texture of these products. We recommend a non-woven, 4- to 6-ouncefabric. See Diagram 5.

RETAINING WALLINSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS22

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The following installation instructionsapply to Anchor retaining wall productsthat feature a rear lip. Where there arevariations, the appropriate informationhas been noted.

LEVELING PAD COMPACTION Diagram 2

EXCAVATION Diagram 1

CONSTRUCTION OF THE NEXT COURSE Diagram 3

CORE FILL Diagram 4


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RETAINING WALL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

23

FILTER FABRIC Diagram 5

DRAIN TILE Diagram 6

DRAINAGE AGGREGATE Diagram 7

COMPACTION Diagram 8

CAPPINGSee page 24 for more information about cap installation.

DRAINAGE DESIGNEach project is unique. The grades on your site will determine at what level to install thedrain tile.

Place the drain tile as low as possible behind the wall so water drains down and away fromthe wall into a storm drain or to an area lower than the wall. See Diagram 6.

Fill in the area behind the blocks with drainage aggregate, at least 12 inches from the wall.

You may need to place and backfill several courses to achieve the proper drainage level.

Cover the drain tile with a geotextile sock which acts as a filter. The drain tile outlet pipesshould be spaced not more than every 50 feet and at low points of the wall. In order forthe drainage aggregate to function properly, it must keep clear of regular soil fill. (See page 28 for more information.)

COMPACTIONShovel the backfill soil behind the drainage aggregate and compact with a hand-operated compactor.

Make sure the aggregate is level with or slightly below the top of the base course.

Place soil in front of the base course and compact. Base course should be buried.

Continue to fill and compact. See Diagram 8.

REINFORCEMENT (IF REQUIRED)

Geosynthetic reinforcement is recommended for walls taller than 4 feet or walls situated in poor soils, supporting a driveway, etc. Consult a qualified engineer for design assistance.

Check the wall construction plan for which courses will need reinforcement.

Clean any debris off the top layer of blocks.

Measure and cut the reinforcement to the design length in the plans.

To cut grid when block heights are varied in a row, see page 38.

The reinforcement has a design strength direction, which must be laid perpendicular to the wall.

Place the front edge of the material on the top course, 2 inches from the face of the block.

Apply the next course of blocks to secure it in place.

To keep it from wrinkling, pull the reinforcement taut and pin the back edge in place with stakes or staples.

Add drainage aggregate behind the blocks, then add the soil and compact it. See Diagrams 7 and 8.

Remember — place the front edge of the reinforcement on top of the block, making sureit’s within 2 inches of the face of the block. Correct placement ensures that you maximizethe connection strength and keep the batter consistent.

A minimum of 6 inches of backfill is required prior to operating vehicles on the reinforcement. Avoid sudden turning or braking. See Diagram 8.

FINISH GRADE AND SURFACE DRAINAGEProtect the wall with a finished grade at the top and bottom.

To ensure proper water drainage away from the wall, use 6 inches of soil with low permeability. This will minimize water seeping into the soil and drainage aggregate behind the wall.

SITE CLEANING AND RESTORATIONBrush off the wall and pick up any debris left from the construction process.

Notify the job superintendent in writing of the project’s completion and that it is ready for final inspection and acceptance.

Planting vegetation in front and on top of the wall will help reduce the chance of erosion.

Following these Best Practices for construction will ensure the successful installation ofAnchor Wall Systems products.

Jumper Installation Note: See page 38 for further details.

SAFETY NOTE: Always use appropriate equipment, including safety glasses or goggles andrespirators, when splitting, cutting or hammering units.

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CAPPING A WALL

STRAIGHT WALLProper installation of any Anchor retaining wall requiresthat running bond be maintained. Running bond occurswhen the blocks are centered over the vertical joints of theprevious course. This adds to wall stability and makes yourwall system aesthetically beautiful.

CURVED WALLAny wall that is not perfectly straight will eventually runoff bond when using Diamond® and Diamond Pro.® Whenthis happens, skip a block position and place the next blockinto the next place where it is back on bond. Measure theremaining gap and cut a block to fit.

Once the partial unit is in place, glue with a concreteadhesive. Partial units should not be less than 5 inches and should not be placed directly on top of each other. Ifthe gap is larger than the length of one block, divide themeasurement by two and put two partial units in place.

STRAIGHT WALLCaps are trapezoidal and must be laid alternatively shortand long cap faces for a straight line. Always start cappingfrom the lowest elevation.

OUTSIDE CURVESLay out the cap units side by side and cut at least everyother cap to produce a uniform look. Start with the longside of the cap facing out and adjust to the radius.

INSIDE CURVESLay cap units side by side with the short side facing out. In most circumstances, making two cuts on one cap andthen not cutting the cap on either side produces the most pleasing look.

CORNERSOn a 90° corner wall, the corner caps need to be saw-cutto achieve a 45° mitered corner.

STEPPING UP CAPSIf a wall elevation changes, caps can be stacked where thewall steps up. Begin laying caps at the lowest elevationchange and work your way back toward the previous stepup. Split a cap unit to create a rough face on the exposedside. Place the half unit directly on top of the cappedportion of the wall with all three split faces exposed.

FINISHINGAfter layout is complete and caps are saw-cut or split tosize, carefully glue with a concrete adhesive.

RUNNING BOND


Two cuts on every other block

Glue each cap

Short edges



25

Cut to fit; glue in place

Cut to fit;glue in place

Split step unit

Cut to fit;glue in place

ELEVATION

The step can be bench-cut.

These construction drawings feature step units.Caps or pavers can be used for treads. Check localbuilding codes for any tread depth standards.

BASE COURSEThoroughly compact the leveling pad. Lay out thebase course according to the wall design. Place stepunits first, working from the center to each side.Remember, it is very important to backfill andcompact behind and along the sides of each courseof step units.

FIRST STEP COURSEPlace the first course of step units directly on top ofthe base course so there is no setback. Stagger themfrom the previous course and glue in place.

SECOND STEP COURSEAdd the second course of steps, staggering them from the previous course to maintain running bond.Overlap the previous course by 2 inches and glue to lower course.

SECOND WALL COURSEBuild the second course of the wall.

THIRD STEP COURSEBeginning in the center, add the third course of steps, lining up the units with the first course. Overlap 2 inches and glue in place.

THIRD WALL COURSEBuild the third course of the wall. Repeat these steps until the wall is finished.

Drainage Tip: Drain pipe can be placed behind the lowest step units at grade or behind each wall adjacent to the steps.

STANDARD STEP

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Graceful curves enhance the appearance of a step area when Highland Stone® wall units andstep units are combined.

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These construction drawings feature step units. Caps orpavers can be used for treads. Check local building codesfor any tread depth standards.

BASE COURSEThoroughly compact the leveling pad. Lay out the basecourse according to the wall design. Place step units first,working from the center to each side. Remember, it is veryimportant to backfill and compact behind and along thesides of each course of step units.

FIRST STEP COURSEPlace the first course of step units directly on top of thebase course so there is no setback. Stagger them from theprevious course and glue in place.

SECOND STEP COURSEAdd the second course of steps, staggering them from the previous course to maintain running bond.Overlap the previous course by 2 inches and glue to lower course.

SECOND WALL COURSEBuild the second course of the wall.

THIRD STEP COURSEBeginning in the center, add the third course of steps, lining up the units with the first course. Overlap 2 inches and glue in place.

THIRD WALL COURSEBuild the third course of the wall. Repeat these steps until the wall is finished.

STEP


RETAINING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

Squaring off the wall next to steps gives a tailored look.

Drainage Tip: Drain pipe can be placed behind the lowest step units at grade or behind each wall adjacent to the steps.

Remove lips so walls stackvertically. Glue all units.

Sweeping steps stimulate interest in hardscapes. Use the Standard Step Construction Details on page25 but substitute 6-inch Highland Stone wall units for step units.

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27RETAINING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

Bull-nosed pavers complete this step installation with Highland Stonestep units. Use the Standard Step Construction Details on page 25.

Pavers complete this set of steps built with Highland Stone wallunits. Follow the Step Construction Details on page 26 but substitutewall units for step units.

Cap units finish stepsbuilt with Highland

Stone® wall units. Use the Standard Step

Construction Detailson page 25 but

substitute 6-inch wallunits for step units.

Turn up the interest and explore steps that aren't straight from bottom to top. Use the Standard StepConstruction Details on page 25 but substitute 6-inch Highland Stone wall units for step units. Continue the pattern established in the wall as the steps are incorporated.

STEP INSPIRATION



FIRST COURSE To daylight drain pipes through a wall face, place the drain pipes on compacted leveling pad aggregate placedbehind the first course. Space these drains not more than50 feet apart. Split 2 inches off the front of two adjacentlarge units to provide space for the drain pipe to exitthrough the face.

NEXT COURSEBuild this and remaining courses using standard construction techniques.

Tip: To daylight through slope, see Drainage Swales.

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The design and performance of most retaining walls are based on keeping the reinforced zone relatively dry. Appropriate drainage swales to help control watershould be designed in the wall construction plan.

DRAINAGE SWALES

DAYLIGHTING DRAINAGE

Daylight drain pipes at least every 50 feet toensure proper drainage.

Impermeable concreteor asphalt lining

TopsoilCompacted fill

Drainage aggregate

Leveling pad

Low-permeabilityclay soil

Topsoil

Compacted fill

Drainage aggregate

Leveling pad

Drainage aggregate

Leveling pad



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LOWEST POINTWalls built on a sloping grade require a stepped base. Beginexcavation at the lowest point and dig a level trench intothe slope until it is deep enough to accommodate the basematerial and one entire block.

STEP UPAt this point, step up the height of one block and begin a new section of base trench. Continue to step up asneeded to top of slope. Always bury at least one full unit at each step.

FIRST COURSEBegin with first block next to the wall and place firstcourse. Place filter fabric behind the first two large unitsand extend it 2 feet along the existing structure.

SECOND COURSEBuild second course with standard installation techniques.A split unit is shown, but may not be necessary in everyinstallation. Extend filter fabric to the top edge of the finalcourse. A rubber membrane can be placed between theunits and a non-concrete wall to prevent moisture damageto the structure.

29STEPPING UP THE BASE

ABUTTING EXISTING STRUCTURE

Filter fabric

Filter fabric

Filter fabric

Wall

Start here

Stepped base

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FIRST COURSE WITH REINFORCEMENTMost retaining walls are designed assuming 100% coverage of the reinforcement. When building an insidecurve, the back edges of the reinforcement will fan outslightly producing gaps. In order to ensure 100% coverage,additional lengths of reinforcement are used to fill thosegaps on the next course of blocks. Don’t overlap the gridon one course to avoid slippage.

Cut reinforcement to the lengths specified in the wall plan.Lay segments of reinforcement within 2 inches of the faceof the wall, making sure that the strength direction of eachsection is perpendicular to the wall face.

Place the next course of blocks, marking the backs ofblocks to identify the middle of unreinforced areas. Backfilland compact. Center subsequent sections of reinforcementon the marked blocks to ensure full reinforcement cover-age. Repeat this procedure throughout the construction of the radius curve when reinforcement is required.

INSIDE CURVES WITH REINFORCEMENT

INSIDE CURVES

MINIMUM INSIDE RADIUSDiamond Stone Cut™ Casual Face . . . 4 feetDiamond Stone Cut Formal Face . . . . 8 feetDiamond® Beveled Face . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 feetDiamond® Straight Face . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 feetDiamond Pro® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 feetDiamond Pro Stone Cut™ (using all units) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 feetHighland Stone®(using all units) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 feet

CALCULATE THE RADIUSCheck the wall plan to determine the radius of the basecourse. This will be the smallest radius in the wall and mustnot be less than the minimum for the block system used.

BASE COURSEBegin by driving a stake into the ground at the desiredcenter of the curve. Attach a string and rotate it in a circlearound the stake to mark the radius in the soil. Align each block face with the radius curve and ensure levelplacement from side to side and front to back.

ADDITIONAL COURSESOn each course, the lip of each block must be in contactwith the back of the units below to ensure structuralstability. The setback of the block will cause the radius of each course to gradually increase and eventually affectthe running bond of the wall. To maintain proper runningbond, use partial units as needed when installingDiamond® and Diamond Pro®. Once a split unit is cut to size, glue in place with a concrete adhesive.

Stake

String

Make radius

On the second layer, fill in the open area withadditional lengths of grid.

Cut reinforcement tocover as much areaas possible withoutoverlapping.


OUTSIDE 90° CORNERS WITH REINFORCEMENTBegin by checking the wall plan to determine reinforcement lengths and elevations. Lay a section ofreinforcement near the corner of the wall, ensuring that it’s placed within 2 inches of the face of the block andrunning along the back of the adjoining wall.

Lay the next course of block, backfill and compact. Wheninstalling the next section of reinforcement, place within 2 inches of the face of the block and running along theback of the adjacent wall.

Tip: Use Diamond Pro® corner units or Highland Stone®column units for the corners.

BASE COURSETo build an outside90° corner, begin bysplitting a large unit in half. Place this unit with both splitfaces out at the corner. Remove the lip so that the blocklies flat. Then lay the rest of the base course working fromthe corner block out.

SECOND COURSEBegin the second course with the other half of the largeunit. Place the second and third blocks on either side of the corner unit. Once the corner unit is in position, glueblock in place with a concrete adhesive. Continue to alter-nate the corner unit orientation with each course andalways use a concrete adhesive.

Use split units* as necessary to maintain running bond on Diamond® and Diamond Pro.®

*To split a block, use a hydraulic splitter or split manually by using a hammer andchisel to score the block on all sides. Pound the chisel on the same line until theblock splits. If partial unit sides are not exposed, use a circular cut-off saw with a masonry blade to achieve a tighter fit.

OUTSIDE 90° CORNERS

B

B

A

= Strength direction

A

There is compacted backfillbetween grid layers.

Second layerof grid

First layer of grid

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Split large unit

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CALCULATE THE RADIUSWhen building an outside radius curve, begin by calculating the radius of the top course. This will be the smallest radius in the wall and must not be less than the minimum radius for the block system used.

Here is a rule of thumb used to calculate the approximateradius of the top course: add 1⁄4 inch to the setback of theblock used. Multiply that amount by the number of coursesin the finished wall. Then subtract the result from theradius of the base course. This number equals the calculatedradius of the top course.

Example: The setback of Highland Stone® is 11⁄8". The wall is 8 courses high. The radius of the base course is 6 feet. 11⁄8" + 1⁄4" = 13⁄8" x 8 courses = 11". 6' – 11" = 5'1" calculated radius of the top course.

BASE COURSEDrive a stake into the ground at the desired center ofthe curve. Attach a string and rotate it in a circlearound the stake to mark the radius in the soil. Alignthe back of the block with the radius curve and ensurelevel placement from side to side and front to back.

ADDITIONAL COURSESOn each course, the lip of each block must be in contact with the back of the units below to ensure structural stability. The setback of the block will cause the radius of each course to gradually decrease and eventually affect the running bond of the wall. To maintain proper running bond, use partial units as needed wheninstalling Diamond® and Diamond Pro.® Once a split unit is cut to size, glue in place with a concrete adhesive.

OUTSIDE CURVES

A

B

B

Curving lines add grace and style to any project using Highland Stone.®See page 24 for information about capping a curve.

Stake

String

Make radius

Stake

A

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MINIMUM OUTSIDE RADIUSDiamond Stone Cut™ Casual Face . . 2.5 feetDiamond Stone Cut Formal Face . . . . 4 feetDiamond® Beveled Face . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 feetDiamond® Straight Face . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 feetDiamond Pro® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 feetDiamond Pro Stone Cut™(using all units) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 feetHighland Stone®(using all units) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 feet

Highland Stone® units shown

Stake

Cut grid to provide as much coverage as possiblewithout overlapping

On the second level, fill in the gaps in the first levelwith strips of geosyntheticreinforcement. Stake

Turn an open patio into a cozy corner with curved Highland Stone® walls. Wall curves are repeated in the steps.

FIRST COURSE WITH REINFORCEMENTMost retaining walls are designed assuming 100% cover-age of the reinforcement. When building an outside curve,the block edges of the reinforcement will have gaps so thatthe back edges don’t overlap. In order to ensure 100%coverage, additional lengths of reinforcement are used tofill those gaps on the next course of blocks. Don’t overlapthe grid on one course to avoid slippage.

Cut reinforcement to the lengths specified in the wall plan.Lay sections of the reinforcement within 2 inches of theface of the wall with the strength direction perpendicularto the wall face. Avoid overlapping the reinforcement byseparating each section. Place the next course of blocks,marking the backs of blocks to identify unreinforced areas.This step is important because when this course is back-filled, it’s impossible to locate the unreinforced areas.

NEXT COURSEPlace the next course of blocks, marking the backs ofblocks to identify unreinforced areas. This step is importantbecause when this course is backfilled, it’s impossible tolocate the unreinforced areas. Use the marked blocks as aguide, placing subsequent sections of reinforcement tooverlap the gaps left on the previous course. This willensure total reinforcement coverage. Repeat this procedurethroughout the construction of the radius curve whenreinforcement is required.

OUTSIDE CURVES WITHREINFORCEMENT

From this viewpoint, it is possible to see the complete grid coveragebetween the two layers of grid.


34RETAINING WALL CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

INSIDE 90° CORNERS

A

A quiet corner is sheltered with an inside 90° corner built with Highland Stone.® Step up the caps in 3-inch increments for a finishedlook. See page 24 for more information about stepping up caps.

Extend basebeyond corner to preventsettling

B

Extend block beyondcorner to preventsettling

BASE COURSETo create an inside 90° corner, begin by placing a block at the corner. Then lay a second block perpendicular to the first and continue laying out the rest of the basecourse working from the corner out. Make sure toconstruct the base course according to standard site prep and installation procedures described earlier.

NEXT COURSEOn the second course, place all blocks on bond along oneside of the corner. Once the second course of one wall isestablished, begin the second course of the adjacent wall. Split units* may be required on this wall to maintainrunning bond when using Diamond® and Diamond Pro.®

*To split a block, use a hydraulic splitter or split manually by using a hammer andchisel to score the block on all sides. Pound the chisel on the same line until theblock splits. If partial unit sides are not exposed, use a circular cut-off saw with amasonry blade to achieve a tighter fit.

Block placement in the corner should alternate directionwith each succeeding course.

A

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Measure this distance from the front of the adjoiningwall, begin the grid placement here. Make sure the grid is placed within 2 inches of the face of the wall and runs along the back of the adjoining wall.

Example: If overall wall height is 8 feet, the reinforcement extension would be 2 feet.

Place the next section of reinforcement on the adjoining wall. The reinforcement should not overlapand should lie flush with previously placed sections.Once reinforcement is in place, the next courses of block can be installed.

D

INSIDE 90° CORNERS WITH REINFORCEMENT

A

C D

C

FIRST COURSE WITH GEOGRIDTo install reinforcement on an inside 90° corner, beginby checking the wall plan to determine reinforcementlengths and elevations. Cut reinforcement to the lengthsshown in the wall plan, paying attention to thereinforcement strength direction.

Next, determine the proper placement of the reinforce-ment by dividing the proposed height of the wall byfour. This represents the distance that reinforcementshould extend beyond the front of the adjoining wall.

Don’t overlap grid

B

Alternate extension on

each layer

A

SECOND COURSE WITH GEOGRIDThe first section of grid on this course is placed usingthe same formula that determines placement in front of adjoining wall.

Alternate the reinforcement extension on each coursewhere reinforcement is required.

Place the next section of reinforcement on the adjoining wall. The reinforcement should not overlapand should lie flush with previously placed sections.Once reinforcement is in place, the next courses ofblock can be installed.

H/4

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INDEPENDENT TERRACED WALLS For each wall to be independent of others, it must be builtusing a 2:1 ratio — the upper wall must be built a distanceaway from the lower wall of at least twice the height of the lower wall. In addition, the upper wall must also be equal to or less than the height of the lower wall.Exceptions to this general rule include weak soil conditionsor where slopes exist above, below or between walllocations. For example, if the lower terrace is 4 feet tall, the distance between the terraces must be at least 8 feetand the upper wall must not be higher than 4 feet.

Drainage is vital to maintaining stable, long-lastingterraced walls. Drain tile must be installed so that thewater is directed around or under the lower wall (neverplace the drain tile outlet for the upper wall above orbehind the lower wall).

For more detailed information about drainage, see Daylighting and Drainage Swales on page 28.

DEPENDENT TERRACED WALLS When the distance between the lower and upper walls isless than twice the height of the lower wall, the wallsbecome structurally dependent on each other. In this situation, it is important to take global stability intoaccount, incorporating additional reinforcement — andlonger layers — into the wall plan. In addition, structurallydependent walls require even more excavation, backfill andtime. So plan ahead. Be sure to check the wall plan forspecific requirements. For structurally dependent walls,consult with a qualified engineer.

Know the dimensions of the fence to determine the placement of the sleeves. Provide at least 1 inch clearancebetween the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the post, and allow for mortar and grout. Install the sleevesaccording to the wall plan during the construction of the wall.

If the fence is at least 3 feet behind the wall, generally no additional reinforcement is required. If the fence isinstalled within 3 feet, there may be some load transferred to the wall from wind, snow or pedestrians. Additionalreinforcement around the fence sleeves may be needed.

Grout the fence post into the sleeve after the wall is built.

Tip: Visit www.fencesleeve.com for information about sleeves.

TERRACES

FENCES


H

H

2 x H

Drainage aggregate

Drain pipe

Leveling pad

Drainage aggregate

Drain pipeLeveling pad

Geosyntheticreinforcement

Drainage aggregate

Geosynthetic reinforcement

Sleeve

Leveling pad

Drain pipes

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WATER APPLICATIONSBASE COURSEPlace a filter fabric with extra length in front of the wall.

Install leveling pad and the base course of block, includingdrain tile and drainage aggregate. Wrap the extended filterfabric up along the face of the base course. Place soil fill infront of the wall and compact. Install another section offilter fabric in front of the wall to protect against erosion.Cover the fabric with a minimum of 3 inches of sand.Install larger stones such as riprap to hold it in place.

NEXT COURSEContinue constructing the wall. Drainage is vital. To prevent clogging of the drainage aggregate and drain tile by fine-grained soils, a geosynthetic filter fabric is installed to separate the drainage aggregate from thereinforced soils.

ADDITIONAL COURSESContinue these steps until the wall is complete. The lastsection of filter fabric should cover the drainage aggregateand run up against the back of the top course of block. Add fill soil and compact.

Numerous issues, including wave or ice impact, erosion or scour infront of the wall, and ice uplift ofthe wall must be considered in the use of water applications ofsegmental retaining walls.

For more information, consult with a qualified engineer.

Water applications are a great way to get more use from a property.

Drainage aggregate

Filter fabric

Riprap

Geosynthetic reinforcement

Drain pipe

Leveling pad

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Install jumper units on top of an 18-inch-wide HighlandStone® unit.

Set the jumper unit approximately 1 inch back from theface of the 18-inch-wide block on the lower course.

Apply a concrete adhesive to secure the jumper unit.

Place an 18-inch-wide Highland Stone® unit on top of thejumper unit.

PLACEMENTThere is no required pattern for the Highland Stone jumper unit. You can achieve different looks by increasing or decreasing thenumber of jumper units. At right is a helpful pattern.

INSTALLATION OF HIGHLAND STONE®WITH GEOSYNTHETIC REINFORCEMENT USING HIGHLAND STONE® 6-INCH BLOCKSCheck the wall construction plan for which courses willneed reinforcement.

The first layer of geogrid should be placed at ground levelbetween base course and first exposed wall course.

Clean any debris off the top layer of blocks. Measure andcut the reinforcement to the design length in the plan. The reinforcement has a design strength direction, whichmust be laid perpendicular to the wall.

Place the front edge of the reinforcement on the block, 2inches from the face of the block.

Install the next course of block tosecure the reinforcement in place.

When a jumper unit interceptsthe reinforcement, cut thereinforcement and position itaround the jumper unit. See Diagram 1.

USING HIGHLAND STONE® 3-INCH AND 6-INCHBLOCK COMBINATIONFollow the instructions for Highland Stone 6-inch block atleft for the first layer of geogrid.

If walls are constructed using a random pattern, check theappropriate Geosynthetic Reinforcement Estimating Chartson pages 39 through 41 to help estimate the number of gridlayers needed. The charts are for estimating purposes andshould not be used for construction. Consult with a quali-fied engineer to design walls.

Cut around blocks extending into the next-higher course.See Diagram 1. To ensure reinforcement integrity, place gridon the horizontal plane that requires cutting around as fewblocks as possible.

For specific information on reinforcement, refer to theGeosynthetic Reinforcement Estimating Charts on pages 39 to 41.

Diagram 1

A

B

JUMPER UNIT ESTIMATINGCircle the desired density of jumper units in the wall.

Every 3 square feet (SF) Every 6 SF Every 9 SF Every 12 SF

SF of wall (without jumper units or base course) ÷ 3 6 9 12 jumper units per SF = # jumper units

Jumper unit every 12 square feet.

JUMPER UNIT INSTALLATION


Jumper units break up the horizontal lines in this Highland Stone®installation. Use the estimating formula on the left to determine howmany units are needed in a project.


Detail shown is conceptual only and should not be used for construction without the seal of a local qualified engineer.

These estimating charts were developed for use with the following reinforcements: Mirafi 2XT or stronger, Huesker 30 or stronger, Strata 150 or stronger, and Synteen SF 20 or stronger.

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SURCHARGE (LOAD ON THE WALL)

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3:1 (HORIZONTAL TO VERTICAL) CREST SLOPE


DIAMOND PRO STONE CUT™ AND DIAMOND PRO®

ESTIMATING CHARTS42G

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EOSYN

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WALL MAINTENANCE 45

Concrete block walls, like everything else on a property,require care and maintenance. With any newly built retaining wall, there are maintenance aspects that areimportant to watch for after the wall is completed. Provide this information to the property owner when a project is complete.

Basic wall maintenance areas:Site grading

Surface treatments

Wall performance

Weed growth

Salt spray

SITE CONSIDERATIONSEvery newly built retaining wall has soils or backfills placedbehind, and sometimes below, the wall and compactedduring construction. Some extra settling is quite commonafter the wall is completed. Inspecting the wall each springfor any unusual or excessive settling can save you from apotentially large problem.

All retaining walls should be designed and built to routewater around or over the wall face. Once an area behindthe wall begins to settle, water goes to work to enlargethat area. If a low spot is neglected behind a wall, eachnew rainfall will collect water and work its way downbehind the wall. If the area behind the wall is flat, this cancreate a pool above the wall, and this pooling effect turnsthe soils soft. If the wall wasn’t designed or engineered tohold up the added weight, a blowout could occur.

Preventing this problem is easy. Inspect walls each spring.Look for low spots and areas that have settled. Pull backthe landscape mulch or sod on the surface and add enough fill to bring the drainage back to its proper level.This will ensure a lifetime of performance from the wall.

LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCEOnce a new retaining wall is completed, the surface areas surrounding the wall that were disturbed duringconstruction are typically finished with some type oflandscape treatment. This might include paving, landscapeplantings, mulch, sod or seed for turf, or some groundcover. These surface treatments provide an importantfunction for the wall, as they capture and route the water from each rainfall.

These surface treatments will need to be checked eachspring until they are completely established. Walk the sitecarefully, and look for areas that aren’t in proper condition.Replace bad sod, reseed bare areas, and work with theground covers to encourage growth and coverage. Look for areas of erosion, ruts and channels on the surface, andrelandscape as necessary. A little work each spring in theareas surrounding the retaining wall will prevent erosionfrom becoming a problem and will also enhance thelandscape around the wall.

WEED GROWTHAs with concrete and asphalt pavement, a segmentalretaining wall can let an occasional weed grow in its face.By plucking the odd weed that may have found its wayinto the wall, walls can be kept weed-free. Walls may alsobe sprayed once annually just like lawns.

WALL INSPECTIONRetaining walls are made to last a long time. The concreteunits are designed and produced to handle tough winterweather and long, hot summers. They won’t rot or decay.

Each spring, complete an inspection of the actual wall. Takea few minutes to check out the wall, including the blocksand caps. Begin by looking for any movement in the wallfrom the previous season. If drainage or erosion problemsare not corrected, some wall movement could occur.

If a soft spot was not properly compacted at the wall base,you could see some minor settling of the wall. Minorsettling will not hurt the structural integrity of the wall.However, if it happens, it is possible to unstack the blocksin that area, raise the settled spot at the wall base andrestack the blocks.

Check walls each spring for bulges or rotation. Again, thiscan only happen if the wall was not properly installed, butit is prudent to watch over the wall performance. At thesign of any significant forward movement or rotation, geta professional contractor or qualified engineer to evaluatethe movement and determine the cause.

Avoid deicing salt spray to help extend the life of any wall.


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ELIMINATING EFFLORESCENCEMost producers of segmental retaining wall blocks putchemical additives in the concrete to reduce the likelihoodof efflorescence. In most cases, they do the job. However,completely eliminating the chance of efflorescence isn’tpossible because it’s a natural by-product of hardenedconcrete. It will stop when no more calcium hydroxide isavailable to move to the surface.

REMOVING EFFLORESCENCEThere are cleaners available that can remove efflorescence.Consult your dealer to find an appropriate cleaner. Cleaningshould be performed immediately after efflorescence hasappeared. It may reappear as long as the chemical reactioncontinues, and cleaning may need to be done until efflorescence has stopped.

Most cleaners contain acid and detergents; be sure tofollow all label directions and environmental regulations.Careless or improper cleaning can result in injury, damageand discoloration on the surface of the concrete block.Always conduct a test in a small, inconspicuous area before applying any cleaner to the entire wall.

SALT SPRAYIn northern climates, use of deicing salts around a wallcould cause surface damage to the blocks or caps. Look for pockmarks or spalling on the blocks in areas wheresalts are used for winter ice control.

Avoid using salt deicers on or around retaining or FreeStanding Walls. If deicers are used in areas around walls,contact a local building materials outlet for a deicer thatwill not harm concrete. In cases where salt spray may exist, design the wall in such a manner that snow melt and snowbanks containing the salted snow are directedaway from the wall.

MAINTENANCE TIPSFollow these simple maintenance steps to ensure long-term performance from concrete block:

Thoroughly inspect the wall every year.Correct any settling or grading problems aroundthe wall.Maintain the landscape surfaces around the wall.Take notice of any wall movement — settling, bulging or rotation — and then take proper corrective measures.Control any weed growth as necessary.Avoid use of salts as deicers around the wall.

There is a chance that a few weeks or months after a wallinstallation, a white haze may appear on the surface of theblocks. This is known as efflorescence. There is no reason tobe concerned because the blocks are experiencing a naturalprocess. The condition will usually correct itself with timeand exposure to the elements.

THE CHEMISTRY OF EFFLORESCENCEAll concrete products contain cement which produces lime or water-soluble calcium oxide. Lime can also be inthe aggregates or soil. Although concrete segmentalretaining wall blocks are solid, strong and very dense, they contain millions of microscopic capillaries that runfrom the interior to the surface. Moisture from rain, sprinkler systems or dew enters these microscopic capillaries. Calcium oxide inside the block reacts with the water in the capillaries and forms calcium hydroxide.This rises to the surface, reacts with the carbon dioxide in the air and forms a white haze of calcium carbonate.When moisture on the surface evaporates, the white haze of efflorescence becomes visible.

EFFLORESCENCE

WALL MAINTENANCE

Inspect walls every spring and maintain the landscape to maximize thelife of any installation.

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© 2006 Anchor Wall Systems, Inc., 5959 Baker Road, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345-5996 USA. For more information call us toll-free in the U.S. at 1-800-473-4452. Outside the U.S. call +1-952-933-8855 or visit www.anchorwall.com.

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For complete installation instructions, refer to the Installation Video or contact your local licensed Anchor Wall Systems manufacturer or Anchor Wall Systems.

In the United States, Anchor Wall Systems products are backed by a Limited Warranty. For a complete copy of the Anchor Wall Systems Warranty, visit your local distributor or manufacturer orcontact Anchor Wall Systems at 1-877-295-5415 or www.anchorwall.com.

©2009 Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. 5959 Baker Road, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345-5996 USA. For more information call us toll-free in the U.S. at 1-800-473-4452. Outside theU.S. call +1-952-933-8855 or visit www.anchorwall.com.

“Anchor Wall Systems”, “Diamond”, “Diamond Pro”, “Diamond Stone Cut”, “Highland Stone”, “Stone Cut”, and the Anchor ‘A’ logo are trademarks of Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. Diamond, Diamond Pro,Diamond Stone Cut, Diamond Pro Stone Cut, Highland Stone and Highland Stone Free Standing Wall are manufactured only by licensed Anchor Wall Systems producers.

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