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EstoniaA great little country

Estonia A great little country

People from larger countries may find it odd that there are in fact no distant places in Estonia – one can travel from one end of the country to another in just four or five hours without having to rush.

And yet Estonia is larger on the inside than on the outside, the “secret” well known and shared by the locals. It is quite unusual to find such a variety in landscapes, flora, seasons, weather and moods with-in only a couple of dozens of kilometres. At the same time the traveller in Estonia has plenty of space: on the territory with a size comparable to that of Denmark or Holland there are four and twelve times less inhabitants here, respectively.

Everything that you see while travelling around in Estonia is inseparable from our history. Estonians belong to the oldest peo-ples in Europe and were already living on the coasts of the Baltic Sea at the time when the first pyramids were erected in

Egypt. Since the 13th century we have been invaded and ruled by Germans, Danes, Swedes, Poles and Russians, but each one of them have left behind also something good. The Republic of Estonia was declared on 24 February, 1918, and for a couple of decades the people felt pride in their home country, work, children and achievements. The vile and destructive occupation by the Soviet Union which lasted half a century interrupted the natural development of many spheres of life in Estonia, which until then had been keeping up well with its northern neighbour Finland. In 1991 Estonians regained their independence in the course of the “Singing Revolution” and returned to their rightful place in Europe and the world.

Most tourists who visit Estonia arrive first in Tallinn. Since this medieval Hanseatic town, the capital and the business and cultural centre of Estonia deserves a guidebook of its own (of which there are plenty available), we will cover only the

most important facts about Tallinn in this publication. First and foremost we will focus on interesting places, activities, food and culture in other parts of Estonia.

North Estonia – this is a mixture of colourful history and the dy-namic present time, contrasts in lifestyles and nature, a journey

from trendy Tallinn to the quiet of bogs and romantic fishing villages, an ascent from the primeval forest to the height of a limestone cliff and a view over the sea. South Estonia is unique and mysterious: the rich nature, lakes and hills of the heartland nourish the character of the hard-working country people, the nostalgic atmosphere of small towns and the academic-bohemian ambience of the university town Tartu. West Estonia is characterised by vast expanses of land, peace of mind and fresh sea air, bays abounding in birds, juniper fields, pine trees and people toughened by the sea breeze on the coast.

After having taken the chance to travel in the world after the re-gaining of independence, more and more Estonians spend their

summer holidays at home. What could serve as a better recommen-dation to a visitor? We wish that you will enjoy yourselves here are and leave Estonia richer – with new impressions and knowledge, and a warm feeling your hearts.

Vano AllsaluYour travel guide

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Tallinn – a Hanseatic town

Tallinn 1 , the oldest capital in Northern Europe, was put on the map for the

first time by Arabian geographer al-Idrisi in 1154. Tallinn’s Old Town is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the best-preserved medieval town centres in Europe. It boasts a town wall with 26 defence towers, the Dominican St. Catherine’s Monastery founded in 1246, the 600-year-old Gothic Town Hall, the world’s oldest functioning phar-macy on the Town Hall Square and the 159 metres high Oleviste Church which was the highest structure in the world in the 16th century. Toompea Hill and the towers of Oleviste Church and the Town Hall offer breathtaking views over the Old Town. Toompea Castle, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, is the seat of the nation’s parliament and there flies Estonia’s “first flag” on top of Tall Hermann’s Tower.

Tallinn is a dynamic city on the move. The medieval Old Town is not a mu-

seum, but a vibrant, living organism be-

tween the harbour and the new busi-ness district. The city centre with its cosy cafés, boutiques and art galleries beckons to take a stroll and explore the streets, to have a drink and a bite to eat, to party, and – why not – to shop. There is also the Estonian Open Air Museum which gives a glimpse of rural life, the Song Festival Grounds, Kadriorg Park and Castle, the Pirita Convent, romantic Nõmme, a garden town built under the pine trees in the 1930’s, and the distinc-

tive wooden house districts of Kalamaja and Lilleküla.

INFO:Tallinn Tourist Information Centre+372 645 7777e-mail turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee Tourist information centre in Tallinn port (Terminal A) +372 631 8321e-mail port.tallinn@visitestonia.comWWW:www.tourism.tallinn.ee | www.tallinn.ee/eng

Lahemaa and Kõrvemaa

When you drive from Tallinn to-wards Narva you will pass Saha-

Loo near Lake Maardu where the land has been cultivated for over 3,000 years. In Jõelähtme 2 there is the Rebala Heritage Protection Area, by the muse-um of which lies the oldest known stone burial grounds in Estonia dating back to the 8th-7th centuries BC. Nearby are the Kostivere karst area and Jägala Falls 3 , largest in Estonia, which offer impressive sights during high water in spring and autumn. Kiiu Tower 4 , a vassal strong-hold from the 16th century, houses a cafeteria and has given its name to a well-known Estonian li-queur.

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Estonia A great little country

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Estonia’s largest national park, Lahe-maa, is famous for its rich nature,

cultural heritage and beautiful sights. The main attractions of Lahemaa are sandy beaches, enormous erratic boul-ders, mossy pine forests, over 200 spe-cies of birds and almost 900 different plants. The ancient Altja fishermen’s vil-lage 5 offers a glimpse into the life of coastal people in olden times and its

popular Lamba-Ada Beach Bar in Vergi 9 and the stylish restaurant in Sagadi Manor House.

Manors are undoubtedly one of the main attractions of Lahemaa. The

baroque Sagadi Manor 10 is home to a forestry museum and hosts an annual in-ternational workshop on wood sculpting. Palmse Manor 11 , with a swan pond and a palm house, houses the visitors’ centre of Lahemaa National Park, a museum in-troducing the life in the manor and a col-lection of antique cars. Beautiful views open on Vihula Manor 12 situated on the shore of a picturesque lake, and on Kolga Manor 13 which was founded when Estonia was invaded by the Danes in the 13th century. Those interested in culture should visit the art museum in

Viinistu 14 that each summer hosts an international interdisciplinary art festi-val. There are around one hundred gi-ant boulders in Estonia that have a pe-rimeter of at least 25 metres and one-tenth of them are found on the nearby Pärispea Peninsula.

A traveller can also just stop the car and take a walk in the woods or on

the seashore, sit down on a sun-warmed

genuine romantic aura is a real treat for an appreciative traveller. Near Altja you can take a walk along the wonderfully re-freshing Oandu forest trail 6 which with its numerous information boards also of-fers an educational experience. Among other things, you will find traces of elk, bear and wild boar, springs with crystal-clear water, windfalls, as well as dunes formed by the ancient sea: thousands of years ago waves of the Baltic Sea washed the shores here.

The maritime museum in Käsmu “captains’ village” 7 , where there

was a maritime school from 1884 to 1931, has exhibits on seafaring, fish-

rock and dip the feet in the sea. The sea breeze, the sounds of screeching seagulls and a distant fishing boat are like a balm for any weary soul tired of hectic city life. Silence and fresh air can be enjoyed in marshlands. For example, the Viru bog 15 which is surrounded by a pine forest and has a boardwalk and a watchtower is situated only 1 km from the Tallinn-Narva highway.

ing and smuggling. In the 1920’s, the years of prohibition in Finland, the sea-men from the North Estonian coastal vil-lages helped to quench their kinsmen’s thirst by taking spirits across the bay in their boats under the cover of the night. Today drink and food are offered at the colourful Altja Tavern 5 , the 18th cen-

tury rustic Viitna Tavern 8 , the

Kõrvemaa is characterised by for-ests, bogs, mysterious forest lakes

and moors. North Kõrvemaa Landscape Protection Area with its centre in Aeg-viidu 16 , which includes a former Soviet military polygon, and Kõrvemaa Landscape Protection Area with its centre in Simisalu 17 make sure that the natural landscapes remain pristine. Kõrvemaa is a habitat for various protected bird spe-cies including the golden eagle, the less-

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Palmse Manor Jägala Falls

Altja fishing village

Kakerdaja Bog

bers, and you can try your hand at archery. Shenken-berg Tavern serves dishes made from recipes hundreds of years old.

The oldest traces of human inhabi-tation in Estonia, dating back more

than 10,000 years are found near Kunda 24 . The Kunda culture that existed from 8,000 to 4,000 years BC was based on hunting and fishing. Of domestic animals only the dog was known in those dis-tant times, predating ancient Sumerian or Egyptian cultures. When in Kunda, the Cement Museum is worth a visit: cement manufacturing started here in 1870 and the first hydropower plant in

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er spotted eagle and the black stork, and a number of fascinating plants.

In northern Kõrvemaa one can hike along the nature study route of Pauk-

järve, Jussi and Uuejärve. There are watchtowers on the Paukjärve glacial moraine and Venemägi. One of the most remarkable examples of untouched na-ture is the two-level Kakerdaja bog 18 in Albu in the southern part of Kõrvemaa. Valgehobusemägi 19 Hill nearby has hik-ing and ski trails and a watchtower.

Kõrvemaa also offers cultural experi-ences. The museum of A. H. Tamm-

saare, the great Estonian writer 20 , offers a look at farm life in the past, hosts theatrical performances in the summer, and is a starting point for nature hikes in Kõrvemaa. Jäneda Manor 21 hous-es a unique musical observatory of the composer Urmas Sisask. Popular eat-ing and partying places in Jäneda are Musta Täku Tall and the seafood restau-rant Suurvanker which is built on a huge horse carriage. In summertime tourists can also visit Albu Manor House 22 and admire its colourful wall paintings; near-by in Albu Toiduait you can have a bite to eat.

INFO:Visitors’ Centre of Lahemaa National Park +372 329 5555e-mail info@lahemaa.eeWWW:www.lahemaa.ee | www.l-virumv.ee

The coastal limestone cliff and Virumaa

Rakvere 23 got its town rights in 1302, while the original wooden stronghold

Tarvanpää was first described already in 1226 by the chronicler Latvian Henrik. Now there is a museum and an open air stage in the romantic ruins of the castle of the Teutonic knights, and next to it a recreational area with a windmill and a statue of aurochs, the symbol of Rakvere. The museum features exhibitions, tours to medieval horror and torture cham-

the Baltics was built in 1893. Nearby the ruins of Toolse Order Castle 25 stand on the coast.

Ehalkivi 26 near Kunda on the Letipea peninsula is the largest boulder in the

Northern European area that was cov-ered by huge ice sheets during the last Glacial Era. The perimeter of this giant rock is 49.6 metres and it weighs over 2,400 tons. A little more to the east you will find Kalvi Manor 27 with splendid sea views, fountains and a luxury restau-rant. Purtse 28 is the location of a unique fortified dwelling house from the 16th century which is now a concert venue and a restaurant. You can take a stroll in the protected parks of Aa Manor 29 or Toila-Oru 30 , the latter of which is lo-cated right on the seacoast and is rich in various plant species. It surrounded the former presidential summer residence which was destroyed in World War II.

Undoubtedly the biggest attraction in the area is the Ontika coast-

al limestone cliff 31 that runs for more than 20 km between Saka and Toila. At its highest the cliff is 56 metres and presents breathtaking views of the Gulf of Finland. Valaste 32 boasts the high-est waterfall in Estonia. One can admire it on a special viewing platform which also offers an excellent view on the 470 to 570 million-year-old amazing layers of rock. Limestone is Estonia’s national stone and the Ontika coastal limestone cliff is a candidate for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Northeast Estonia is a region full of contrasts where beautiful land-

scapes are side by side with industrial locations such as the huge ashmounds

that are the result of oil shale mining and energy production, and the high chim-neys of power plants. To get a pano-ramic view of the area climb to the top of the Kukruse slagheap 33 , a stone’s throw away from the Tallinn-Narva high-way. The Kohtla Oil Shale Museum 34 or-ganises tours to the former underground mine where you can ride in a mine wag-on, try out mining tools and eat a miner’s lunch which is served right there.

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Rakvere Kohtla Oil Shale Museum

Narva

visitors curious experiences. On the bank of the Narva River that has for centuries been regarded as the border between the Eastern and Western civilisations stands the powerful Hermann Fortress. Now a museum, it faces Ivangorod Fortress on the opposite side of the Narva River. A few kilometres upstream is the historical Kreenholm Manufacture, one of the larg-est textile factories in Europe in the sec-ond half of the 19th century.

The Pühtitsa Dormition Convent in Kuremäe 38 , established in 1891 is

the only Russian Orthodox cloister in Estonia and a destination for both pil-grims and curious travellers. In the dis-tant past it was the place of hiis, a sacred grove worshipped in Estonia’s ancient Taara religion. On the hillside there was a sacrificial well. According to legends, the hill itself was created by Kalevipoeg,

training centre of the Soviet submarine fleet. The beautiful Pakri islands 46 near Paldiski were settled by Swedes in 1345 and were used by the Soviet air force for bombing practice in post-Second World War decades. In the Tallinn–Haapsalu direction the sites of interest are Vasa-lemma Manor 47 , the Padise Monastery that dates back to the 13th century 48 , Harju-Madise Church overlooking the Pakri Bay 49 and Harju-Risti Church with its unique steeple 50 .

to see within an hour’s drive from the capital. There is Estonia’s largest brewery in Saku 40 , the museum of which gives an overview of the history of brewing; there is also a pub where you can have a meal and taste the local beer. About ten kilo-metres away in Kurtna 41 there is a mo-torcycle museum and the Vembu-tembu-maa family amusement park.

Keila Falls 42 are among the largest in Estonia. Wonderful views open

from the 31-metre-high Türisalu lime-stone cliff 43 . Another impressive coastal cliff can be found on the Pakri Peninsula 44 dominated by a 54-metre-high light-house and wind power generators. Pal-diski 45 , once turned into a closed town by the Soviet army, has remains of the naval fortress built by Peter the Great and the huge building of the former

On the way from Tallinn to Pärnu it is worth visiting the partially re-

stored Varbola Stronghold (first men-tioned in 1212) 51 . Among the restored parts are the gateway, well, siege tow-er and some catapults. The settlement around Tuhala 52 is estimated to be as old as 3,000 years. There are 11 places of ancient settlements, cult stones and sacred groves in the area. Estonia’s oldest log road, dating back to the 3rd-4th cen-turies, can be found in the Heinasoo bog. Tuhala, the largest karst area in Estonia

The oldest written record on Jõhvi 35 , the county centre, dates back to

1241. With its sea views and Stalinist buildings, Sillamäe 36 is a unique open air museum of the Soviet industrial herit-age in Estonia. Narva 37 , which was once called the baroque pearl of the Baltic Sea but was almost completely destroyed in 1944 by the Soviet air force, offers its

the epic Estonian hero. Eastern Virumaa is also the location of the Kurtna lake dis-trict 39 where the hilly heath landscape covered mostly by pine forests is dotted with 40 larger and smaller lakes.

INFO:Jõhvi Tourist Information Centre +372 337 0568e-mail johvi@visitestonia.comNarva Tourist Information Centre +372 356 0184e-mail narva@visitestonia.comRakvere Tourist Information Centre +372 324 2734e-mail rakvere@visitestonia.comWWW:www.rakvere.ee | www.ida-viru.eewww.narva.ee | www.kaevanduspark.ee

West and South of Tallinn

Those who do not want to leave Tallinn for too long will find plenty

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Kuremäe Convent

Saku Brewery

Witch’s Well at Tuhala

Kuusekännu Riding Farm 71 , Pallase Stables 8 , Arma Riding Farm 72 or Oru Farm 73 in Western Virumaa. Kohala Manor 74 offers riding for children on Icelandic ponies. Golfers can enjoy their favourite pastime on the Niitvälja 68 and Suuresta 75 golf courses or practice at Sagadi Manor 10 . There are 4×4 safaris and ATV tours, kayak tours to small is-lands off the northern coast, wind surf-ing and rafting possibilities, wall-climbing and go-kart racing on the tracks of Türi-Alliku 76 and Aravete 77 . There are nu-merous possibilities for hunting bear, elk, wild boar and other big game; archery and bloodless hunting can be practiced at Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA 78 . Hunting tourism is mainly organised by RMK.

For those who love animals there is Tallinn Zoo and Sillaotsa Farm

also marked bicycle routes leading to sights of natural beauty and historical buildings. Recreation areas with places for campfire, shelters and other neces-sary amenities, as well as archaic-roman-tic huts and old farm houses for over-night stays are managed by the State Forest Management Centre RMK. A hike in a bog will definitely be an unforgetta-ble experience: by walking along a safe boardwalk you can enjoy untouched pri-meval nature. In Rapla and Järva coun-ties you can go canoeing on the rivers of Jägala, Põltsamaa and Pärnu. For tips on equipment and guidance contact the ca-noe and bike trip services in Tamselja 60 , the Kõrve Centre 61 or the hiking and skiing centre in Kõrvemaa 62 . In Western Virumaa the rivers suitable for canoeing are Loobu, Kunda, Pedja and Valgejõgi.

is best known by its Witch’s Well that gushes out water at the time of spring and autumn floods as well as by a hid-den river that runs 1.5 kilometres un-derground.

People interested in manors should certainly visit those at Alu 53 , Kuu-

siku 54 , Valtu 55 and Purila 56 near the county centre Rapla 57 . Those keen on gardening should attend the flower fair in May in the Estonian “spring capital” Türi 58 . The places to still hunger here are the historical Nõmme Tavern (1786) 87 , Kadri Tare Cafeteria, the station res-taurant Külla Jürile and Saara Kohvi-tuba, a café praising the work of sew-ing. Interesting fabric dolls and decora-tions can also be seen in the Resa Tiits-maa’s puppet room. And before leaving make sure you don’t miss the brightly coloured cock weathervane on top of Türi’s three-nave church.

Now we are not far from the town of Paide 59 that is the heartland

of Estonia and the administrative cen-tre of Järvamaa. Paide, which became a town in 1291, has several historical monuments such as the octagonal gate tower of the order castle as well as a number of places for dining and recre-ation. Located halfway between Tallinn and Tartu, Paide is an excellent starting point for traveling south or north.

INFO:Harju Tourist Information Centre +372 600 1333e-mail harju@visitestonia.comRapla Tourist Information Centre +372 489 4359e-mail rapla@visitestonia.comPaide Tourist Information Centre +372 385 0400e-mail paide@visitestonia.comWWW:www.jarva.ee | www.tyri.ee

Things to do...

Those keen on holidays in nature will find various hiking routes, nature

trails, guided manor tours and horse-back riding trips in Lahemaa. There are

Although the weather in Estonia can be quite changeable, the beach

season usually kicks off in early June. Bathing in the sea is limited to July and August but lakes and shallow bays have warmer temperatures. But a high sea-son or not, Estonian beaches such as Kloogarand 63 , Kaberneeme 64 , Salmistu 65 , Võsu 66 , Vainupea 67 , Narva-Jõesuu and the northern coast of Lake Peipsi offer nevertheless lots of atmosphere, fresh salty sea breeze, and an opportu-nity to be on one’s own. Those who seek fun and company should head for Pirita, Stroomi or Kakumäe beach in Tallinn.

People interested in horseback riding can choose between the Niitvälja

68 or Ruila 69 stables in Harju coun-ty, Maasikmäe Riding Farm 70 in Rapla county, Jäneda Stables 21 in Järvamaa,

Museum 79 . In summer, the children’s amusement park Vembu-tembumaa in Kurtna 41 attracts visitors with trampo-lines, an obstacle track and an outdoor grill. In the Keila aquapark 80 one can indulge in all sorts of water activities all year round. The spa resorts in Viimsi 81 , Laulasmaa 82 and Toila 30 offer the pos-sibilities to relax in pools, saunas and salt chambers as well as to enjoy massage and other treatments. Visitors who prefer rural holidays should visit the Väljaotsa farmhouse-spa with sauna and massage

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... and places to go

Tallinn has many memorable dining es-tablishments that offer either medie-

val menus and atmosphere (Olde Hansa, Peppersack), Estonian cuisine (Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, Vanaema Juures), Italian dishes (Bocca, Controvento), Russian food (Nevskij, Troika), international and modern cuisine (Pegasus, Novell), ex-clusive gourmet experience (Stenhus, Egoist) and much more. Party animals head for high-class nightclubs such as Privé, Moscow, Hollywood, BonBon, Parliament, etc. There is always some-thing different happening in places such as Von Krahl, LoveSexMoney, Levist Väljas (Out of Coverage), KuKu and Cultural Factory Polymer. Trend maga-zines praise Tallinn as a nightlife capi-tal in the Nordic countries. Yet there are plenty of possibilities for more peaceful activities and family vacations as well as space for wandering and meditating on one’s own.

Dining places with distinctive char-acter can also be found outside Tal-

linn. The taverns of Viitna 8 and Altja 5

in Lahemaa, Nõmme Tavern 87 in Rapla-maa and Musta Täku Tall 21 in Järvamaa attract with excellent meals and the au-thentic ambience of a country pub. At trout farms at Hüüru 88 , Jõgisoo 89 , Veski-silla 76 and Vaikla 90 you can spend an enjoyable day outdoors, catching fish and having it prepared and cooked or smoked on the spot.

Theatres, cinemas and museums make their best efforts to ensure a pleas-

ant stay in Tallinn. In Kadriorg Castle one can enjoy classical painting and

services 83 . One can relax in modern in-frared and steam saunas at Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA 78 , jump straight into icy water from an archaic smoke sauna in Türi-Alliku 76 , visit a transparent plas-tic sheet sauna at Vana-Veski Holiday Centre in Ussisoo 84 , enjoy a barrel sau-na of Anne Holiday House 85 or test the heat of a very special sauna built inside a fire truck at Järva-Jaani 86 .

WWW:www.retked.ee | www.ropeclimber.comwww.egk-golf.ee | www.tallinnzoo.eewww.viimsitervis.ee | www.saka.eewww.laulasmaa.ee | www.toilasanatoorium.eewww.veskisilla.ee

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sculpture; in autumn 2005 the new contemporary art museum KUMU will open its doors in Kadriorg. There is al-ways something to see in the Tallinn Art Hall, Rotermann’s Salt Storage, and the Museum of Applied Arts and Design. The numerous boutiques and galleries in the Old Town are works of art in their own right: here you can see exciting histor-ical limestone interiors decorated with murals, mixing boldly the ultramodern and the archaic.

Estonia’s most famous festival is un-questionably the National Song and

Dance Festival which takes place every five years. Summer events include the Tallinn Old Town Days and the Medieval Tallinn festival. There is also the Black Nights Film Festival which takes place in different places and at different times, the jazz festival Jazzkaar, the new mu-sic festival NYYD, the theatre festival Baltoscandal, the church music festi-val in Rapla 57 and the folklore festival Viru Säru 11 . For a different experience you can visit the Viking Days in Käsmu 7 , the Türi Flower Festival 58 , the Avi-nurme Coopers’ Fair 91 , the Masters’ Fair

in Paide 59 , the Jäneda gardening and flower days 21 , the woman-carrying com-petition in Müüriku 92 and watch bar-rel riding at Porkuni Lake 93 . Art lovers will enjoy the Tallinn Print Triennial, the Paide Limestone Festival 59 , the wood sculpting festival Vambola Puu 51 , and the ceramics symposiums at Tohisoo Manor 94 . Katariina Guild in the Tallinn Old Town, Puraviku Windmill’s Smithy 55 , Atla Manor ceramics workshop 95 , Kandlekoda 96 in Raplamaa and the smithy at Palmse manor 11 are places

where master craftsmen make beautiful handicrafts and where sometimes work-shops are organised for tourists. The fa-vourites of visitors to Estonia are woollen sweaters with colourful patterns, linen garments, items made of juniper wood and articles of wrought iron.

Last but not least, one can visit the motorcycle museum in Kurtna 41 ,

the firefighting museum in Järva-Jaani 86 , the glass museum in Järvakandi 97 , the cement museum in Kunda 24 and the Estonian Broadcasting Museum 58 . When in Tallinn, visit the History Museum in the Old Town or the Estonian Open Air Museum. Limestone and limestone products are on display in the Porkuni Limestone Museum in Lääne-Virumaa 93 and at the Gildemann’s dolomite centre in Jalase 98 in Raplamaa.

WWW:www.opera.ee | www.concert.eewww.ekm.ee | www.etdm.eewww.evm.ee | www.eam.eewww.svm.ee | www.bocca.eewww.restoranpegasus.ee | www.egoist.eewww.troika.ee | www.restoran.ee/viitna

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macy buildings, a watermill, and an an-cient churchyard. The Luua Arboretum 6 houses around 750 different species of trees and bushes, while the garden of Saare Manor 7 grows a wide selection of herbs. Vooremaa is the home for Elist-vere Animal Park 8 that accommodates many local animals and birds.

Further east there is Lake Peipsi, Europe’s fourth largest lake. The

mainly Russian settlements on the shores of the lake originate from religious refu-gees who settled there in the 17th and

Tartu and Lake Peipsi

Mentioned for the first time in 1030, Tartu 1 is the centre of South

Estonia and the country’s second-largest town. Its pride is the University of Tartu, founded in 1632, whose academic staff has among other outstanding scholars in-cluded Karl Ernst von Baer, a pioneer of the theory of evolution and modern em-bryology, and Juri Lotman, the founder of structural semiotics. Tartu is also the birthplace of Estonian national literature

tance from the city centre is Supilinn (Soup town), a picturesque and rath-er worn-out district of wooden hous-es, with streets named after vegetables. Other districts worth seeing are Karlova, Tammelinn and Tähtvere.

As you leave Tallinn towards Tartu make a stopover in Põltsamaa 2 ,

Estonia’s wine capital. The local wines from apples and black currants are de-licious and certainly worth tasting. This small town has also a rose nursery and seventeen bridges. Near county centre Jõgeva 3 there are the ruins of the Laiu-se citadel 4 , the winter residence of the king of Sweden Karl XII during the Great Northern War. A legend says that the king personally planted a linden tree that is still growing in the local churchyard 300 years later.

Endla Nature Reserve belongs to the list of wetlands of international impor-

tance under Ramsar Convention. Among other things it offers boat trips, study tours and an opportunity to climb the top of an observation tower right next to bog pools. Another interesting area is and journalism, and it hosted the first na-

tional song festival in 1869. The town’s most notable buildings are the main University building, St. John’s Church (1323), famous for its unique terracotta statues, and the Town Hall, which dates back to the 18th century.

When you take a walk in the dis-tinctly classical old town don’t

miss the famous statue of kissing stu-dents in front of the Town Hall or Tartu’s “Tower of Pisa”, the leaning building of the art museum by the Town Hall Square. Toomemägi, one of Tartu’s main landmarks, is an English-style park locat-ed on the site of the former Estonian stronghold. Toomemägi is known for its two bridges, the Devil’s Bridge and the Angel’s Bridge, the Observatory, and the ruins of Dome Church, which was the largest cathedral in Livonia when it was completed in the 15th century. At the foot of the hill you will find Wilde Pub with a cosy bookstore and the bronze figures of two prominent writ-ers: Estonian Eduard Vilde and British-Irish Oscar Wilde.

The dominant element in Tartu is the Emajõgi River which divides the town

into two parts and which used to be an important trade route in the

past centuries. Within a walking dis-

Vooremaa with its picturesque drumlins formed by glacial drift and eight lakes full of fish. At the heart of Vooremaa you will find Palamuse 5 with its parish school museum, old vicarage and phar-

18th centuries. They were the so-called Old Believers who opposed the official teachings of the Orthodox Church. These people live in unique one street villag-es that stretch for miles. The museum in Kolkja 9 collects and preserves every-thing related to the Old Believers, and a local restaurant offers authentic fish and onion dishes. In Raja 10 pay a visit to the monastery of Old Believers or go swimming or fishing. Not far from the shores of Peipsi lies Alatskivi Castle 11 in the middle of a nice deer garden. Life seems to have stopped in Piirissaare 12 , an island of fishermen and onion grow-ers. In summer you can get there by fer-

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Tartu

Võhandu River

Onion beds at Lake Peipsi

Laiuse

costumes, decorated with massive silver trappings, and a special style of singing called leelo. Peko, the Setu god of fer-tility, belongs to an ancient religion that predates Christianity, and there are ar-chaic elements in the Setu way of life even today. You can get a good overview of the Setu culture at the Setu Kingdom Days, held annually in August, where among other things Peko’s representa-tive on earth is elected.

The Setu Farm Museum in Värska 23 has many exhibits showing centu-

ries of farmhouse architecture, old tools, and samples of handicraft, and also serves tradi-tional Setu food. You can d ine , bathe and, for ex-ample, play ten-nis at Hirvemäe

43 metres), old mill sites, and beautiful meadows and forests.

In Räpina 17 one can find one of the oldest paper plants in Europe (found-

ed in 1734) which is still working. There are more than 300 species of trees and bushes in the park of classical Sillapea Manor. The county capital Põlva 18 is a small, peaceful town which emerged around the 16th century St. Mary’s Church. Other tourist attractions include the Intsikurmu song festival grounds, an impressive community centre, and the beach on the shore of an artificial lake.

Meenikunno Landscape Protection Area 19 is a place to experience

hungry you can stop in Tiina’s Kitchen in Veriora 22 .

In the southeasternmost corner of Estonia is Setumaa, a region character-

ised by an interesting mixture of Estonian and Russian cultures, which is inhabit-ed by native Setus who speak their own dialect, difficult to understand by oth-er Estonians. Famous are Setu national

ry from Tartu. On the way to Peipsi great views open on the vast expanse of Ema-jõe Suursoo Nature Protection Area on both banks of the Emajõgi River.

INFO:Tartu Tourist Information Centre +372 744 2111e-mail tartu@visitestonia.comPalamuse Tourist Information Centre +372 776 8520e-mail palamuse@visitestonia.comWWW:www.tartu.ee | turism.tartumaa.eewww.jogevamv.ee

Põlvamaa and Setumaa

The hilly landscapes of southern Estonia are punctuated by large and

small lakes, rivers, valleys, meadows cov-ered with scattered trees and forests, swamps and bogs. South of Tartu in the primeval valley of the Ahja River lies Taevaskoda 13 with its 24 metres high bare sandstone rocks that are 400 mil-lion years old. Taevaskoda is a popular destination for horseback riding. And if lucky, you may spot a rare kingfisher. In the Kiidjärve-Taevaskoja holiday area na-

ture lovers should check out the Akste 14 ants’ protection area, with its up to two metres high anthills, and the Kiidjärve water mill. In summertime it’s a pleas-ure to board the riverboat Lonny for a tour of the Saesaare water reservoir. An interesting hiking route and a watchtow-er help to discover Valgesoo Landscape Protection Area 15 .

The awesome sandstone vaults of the caves in Piusa 16 are worthy of

a church and are marked for safe ac-cess. This is one of the largest hiber-nation locales for bats in northeast-ern Europe, which is why the caves are closed in winter. In the Piusa pottery, located in the former railway station, visitors can try their hand at ceramics. Further south is the protection area of the Piusa River primeval valley that fea-tures huge exposed sandstone rocks (in-cluding Härma Wall, Estonia’s highest at

the silence and tranquility of bogs, and to admire Valgejärv (White Lake) which has the clearest water in Estonia, and its sister Mustjärv (Black Lake) with its dark waters. There are meteorite craters in Ilumetsa 20 , the largest of which is called the Hell’s Grave and is 80 me-tres across. Not far away are the Devil’s Grave and the Ghost’s Grave which, ac-cording to the locals, are shortcuts to Hell. Those with an interest in ecologi-cal tourism should visit Süvahavva (Deep Grave) Nature Farm 21 , which organises tours to the Võhandu River, and helps you get to know local herbs. If you are

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Akste ants’ protection area

Meenikunno Landscape Protection Area

View from Suur Munamägi

Holiday Centre. Värska has a spa well-known for its cura-tive mud and mineral waters. In Obinitsa 24 you will find the Seto Muuseumitarõ museum that presents the way Setus lived and worked from 1920 to 1940. The Obinitsa artificial lake, adorned by the statue of the Setu Mother of Song, is good for swimming, fishing and boat rides. The Setu museum in Saatse 25 has more than 20,000 examples of Setu culture. There are also many interesting small village chapels called tsässon in Setumaa. And be prepared for surprises in Setumaa. It is, for example, a venue for the annual meeting of the Estonian Volkswagen Beetle Club.

INFO:Põlva Tourist Information Centre +372 799 5001e-mail polva@visitestonia.comRäpina Tourist Information Centre +372 796 4810e-mail rapina@visitestonia.comWWW:www.southestonia.infowww.polvamaa.ee | www.polvamaale.eewww.hot.ee/setotourwww.hot.ee/setomuuseum

Võrumaa and Valgamaa

When in Vastseliina 26 one should visit the ruins of the 14th century episcopal castle which once used to be a

popular destination for pilgrimages. Visitors are welcome to eat and relax at Piiri Tavern, the lo-cation of which was printed on a road map as early as in 1695. This is also the starting point for trips to the Piusa primeval valley and col-ourful fairs are held here in summer. From the 202-metre Meremäe Hill 27 nearby you can get a good over-view of the surrounding landscape and in clear weather even the gold-en cupolas of the Orthodox church-es in Petseri on the Russian side are visible. Võrumaa, with its hilly land-

scapes, primeval valleys and forests, has always been consid-ered one of the most beautiful parts of Estonia. One of the characteristic features of Võru 28 , the county centre, is its in-teresting wooden architecture. One of the modest wooden houses is now the museum of Fr. R. Kreutzwald, the famous

Estonian writer who composed our national epic “Kalevipoeg” in it while he was a town doctor. Other tour-ist attractions are the beaches by the lakes of Tamula and Kubija, a hunters’ and fishers’ settlement dat-ing back to the Stone Age, and the Meegomäe motocross track.

In the Haanja Upland the

traveller will find the highest peak of the generally low and flat Estonia – Suur Munamägi (318 m) 29 , the deepest body of water – Rõuge Suurjärv (38 m) 30 , the deepest primeval valley Kütiorg (70 m) 31 with a downhill skiing resort, and the Vällamäe bog 32 with the thickest layer of peat (17 m) in Estonia. Magnificent views open on the varied southern Esto-nian landscape from the tower on Suur Munamägi. Haanja Nature Park, created

to protect the local landscapes and traditions, attracts visitors as a holiday-making destination in summer; one can enjoy the colours of nature in autumn and go skiing in winter.

In Rõuge 30 you will find a church harmonising with the surrounding beautiful landscapes. In the vicinity there is a

unique complex of seven lakes, connected to one another, and Nightingale Valley that echoes with nightingale song in spring. In Tindiorg a traveller can admire the smart water pumps called water rams that are powered by the flow-ing water itself, swing on the village swing or visit the ostrich farm. You can have dinner in the Saarsilla farm café in Rõuge, fish and grill trout in Tindiorg or at Veski Farm in Saarlase Village. In the Hinni Canyon 33 near Kahrila Lake there are impressive sandstone rocks. In the open-air mu-seum in Mõniste 34 you can see authentic old farmhouses and try weaving on the handloom, look for the vein of water with a magic rod, chop wood or show your whole family around in a horsecarriage. A scenic landscape can be enjoyed on a bike or on foot also in Paganamaa (Devil’s Land) near the Latvian

border; a legend has it that its valleys were formed from the footprints of the Devil fleeing from a thunderstorm.

Estonia’s smallest, Karula National Park (visitors’ centre in Ähijärve 35 )

is a mixture of meadows, forests, lakes and bogs. Here you can admire rare plants and with a bit of luck encounter a black stork, a fish hawk, or an otter. Metsamoori Family Park in Mähkli 36 , consisting of ten holiday farms, and the Pokumaa hiking trail in Visela 37 are a real treat for families with children. Near Urvaste 38 you will find the 700 years

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Hinni Canyon

Rõuge Church

Taagepera Castle

Viljandi

Otepää 48 is the the most well-known winter sports centre in the Baltics

and the “winter capital” of Estonia. It got its name (“bear’s head”) after the pecu-liarly shaped hill, onto which was built the first known brick castle in Estonia in 1224. The Estonian national blue-black-and-white tricolor was blessed for the first time in the local St. Mary’s Church on 4 June, 1884. There is the Estonian Flag Museum now in Otepää pastor’s mansion. Otepää Nature Park is a high-ly appreciated holiday area comprising a landscape of rolling hills and lakes, ro-mantic winding village roads and small rivers. Beautiful views open from the ob-servation towers on top of 217-metre Kuutsemägi 49 , Harimägi 50 and Väike Munamägi 51 hills. In wintertime the area is a paradise for skiers, snow mobile rid-ers and to everyone enjoying snow: there are lit slalom slopes equipped with ele-vators, innumerable cross-country tracks, the skiing centres in Tehvandi and Kuutse-mäe and the ski museum in Otepää.

Otepää also boasts the most beau-tiful lake in Estonia – Pühajärv 52

(Holy Lake), featuring in many artists’ paintings. In summertime Pühajärv and around one hundred other lakes in the area offer various activities ranging from rowing and paddle boat rides to fish-ing and sunbathing. There are also tennis courts and hiking trails as well as a soon opening golf course. Those who believe

old Tamme-Lauri oak, the largest tree in Estonia. On the slope of the picturesque primeval valley stands the 14th-centu-ry church in Urvaste which is the oldest preserved building in Võrumaa and as a basilica unique among Estonian coun-try churches.

Valga 39 , the county capital, is actual-ly a twin-town with Valka in Latvia

and they are split in two by the bor-der. North from Valga towards Otepää lies Sangaste Castle 40 , a major exam-ple of the Historicist style in the Baltic States, with a remarkable park with nu-merous unusual plant species. There is also a hotel and restaurant in the castle. Equally impressive is Taagepera Castle 41 situated in the middle of primeval for-ests which is considered one of the fin-est examples of the Art Nouveau man-or houses in Europe. Today the castle accommodates a hotel-conference cen-tre where one can enjoy a health pro-gramme focusing on different methods of massage or go pheasant hunting. Its “little brother” Holdre Castle 42 has been built in the same style.

in magic forces should pay a visit to the so-called “energy pillar” in Otepää.

INFO:Võru Tourist Information Centre +372 782 1881e-mail voru@visitestonia.comValga Tourist Information Centre +372 766 1699e-mail valga@visitestonia.comOtepää Tourist Information Centre +372 766 1200e-mail otepaa@visitestonia.comWWW:www.southestonia.info | www.vorulinn.eewww.visitvoru.ee | www.haanjamaa.eewww.karularahvuspark.ee

Viljandi and Soomaa

The county centre Viljandi 53 is the hilli-est town in Estonia with lots of green-

ery and ancient trees, winding streets and the ruins of the powerful order castle built between the 13th and 16th centu-ries. Organ concerts are held in St. John’s Church (1466); worth seeing are the Town Hall, the water and watch tower as well as the suspended bridge, the symbol of the town. The old pharmacy building now houses a museum introducing the histo-ry of Viljandi. There is a nice beach, boat rentals and sports grounds at the scenic Viljandi Lake. In town one will find cosy cafés and restaurants; in Uueveski Holiday Centre one can catch trout and prepare one’s own meal.

For nature lovers the main attraction in Viljandimaa is certainly Soomaa

National Park. In spring and autumn, sometimes also in rainy summers, the rivers overflow their banks and flood the fields, forests and pastures so that the water level may rise up to six metres above the lowest level. Yet the floods in Soomaa are not a natural disaster but the area’s characteristic feature and a spectacle for tourists. The locals’ main vehicle at the time

In the vicinity of Tõrva 43 , a miniature garden town and historical place of tar-

burning, are the Helme caves 44 and ruins of an order castle, Orjakivi (Slave’s Stone) and a sacrificial well where young girls are said to have sacrificed beads to pre-serve their beauty. Today there is a café in the old smithy. On the bottom of Valg-järv Lake further south 45 one can see the remains of a 1,500 years old pile dwell-ing. One can go bathing and simply enjoy nature both at Valgjärv Lake and Tündre Lake 46 . In Jõgeveste 47 one can visit the mausoleum of Barclay de Tolly, the Russian general in the Napoleonic Wars.

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Meadow in Soomaa

Making the local dugout boat (haabjas) in Soomaa

of floods is the boat and in some places also the archaic haabjas – a boat hewn from the trunk of one single big as-pen tree. Soomaa is the hab-itat for bear, lynx and wolf; one can encounter rare orchids and flocks of migrating birds resting on the water. Boating on the rivers one will notice meadows covered with scat-tered trees and virgin forests abundant with different plant species. Thirteen different hik-ing and nature study trails, ob-

servation towers, hiking huts and 10 camping sites help to discover the secrets of the national park. More detailed in-formation can be obtained from the visitors’ centre in Kõrtsi-Tõramaa 54 . Exciting activities will surprise adventurers in the Karuskose holiday centre 55 : beaver safaris, overnight stay in the “owl’s nest” on top of a big linden tree, the floating sauna Pühamüristus (Good Heavens) and of course boat trips. One may have a chance to see the making of haabjas and even hold an ax in one’s hand. Sookolli Söögituba (Swamp Bogy’s Dining Room) serves characteristic local meals based on reci-pes dating from the grandmothers’ time. In Lubjassaare 56 one can visit a farm musem, the birthplace of Johann Köler, a pi-oneer of the nation’s professional art; there are also a camp-ing site and swings. The Ruunaraipe dunes 57 nearby are the remains of the ancient seashore. The Kurekiiva farm museum of taxidermy in Sandra Village 58 displays local animals and birds as well as horns and skulls of wild animals.

Viljandimaa borders on Võrtsjärv, Estonia’s largest inland water body, and a popular destination for fishermen who

catch eel, pike and bream here. The southern part of the coun-ty attracts visitors with its scenic landscape and sights of in-terest. In Heimtali there is a museum of regional history 59 with a large collection of Estonian handicraft and an interest-ing vodka distillery with four towers. Karksi-Nuia 60 is a nice small town by the Halliste primeval valley; there are ruins of a stronghold, a church with a leaning steeple and a winery. One will find several bathing places and picnic sites in the neigh-bourhood. Nearby in Allaste Village there is the Mägiste spruce tree whose trunk has 13 forks. Õisu 61 has a beautiful 18th century manor complex and an old smithy open for tourists. The 15th century Halliste 62 church has a unique black ceil-ing and a modern altar painting and is considered one of the prettiest churches in Estonia.

In Olustvere it is worth visiting the tourist centre in the man-or house 63 , the collection of wooden horses, and a park

with majestic alleys. The Pilistvere memorial 64 to the victims of the Communist genocide is a place for a quiet stopover. By bringing field stones to the base of the large cross Estonians commemorate the tens of thousands of compatriots who were deported to Siberia. The date carved in the wall stone of the steeple of Pilistvere Church – 1222 – testifies to the begin-

ning of the missionary work of the Cistertians in this area. The Energy Farm in Vihi Village 65 grows herbs

and organises special tours for those in-

terested in plants. The market town of Suure-Jaani 66 boasts St. John’s fortified church that dates back to the 14th century, a nice park and an artificial lake. Three kilometres away there is the Lõhavere stronghold hill 67 , the home base of Lembitu, the legendary leader of the Estonian freedom-fighters in the war with the Teutonic Order.

INFO:Viljandi Tourist Information Centre +372 433 0442e-mail viljandi@visitestonia.comWWW:www.viljandi.ee | www.viljandimaa.ee | www.soomaa.ee | www.soomaa.com

Things to do...

Detailed information on hikes on foot or by bicycle can be obtained from tourist information centres. Canoeers’ fa-

vourites are Soomaa National Park and the Ahja and Võhan-du rivers with their old water mill sites, rapids and high sand-stone banks. After the trip it is refreshing to enjoy sauna and organic food on a tourist farm. Most lakes and rivers, including Lake Peipsi although most of its shoreline is filled with reeds, are suitable for bathing. There are also plenty of small beaches created at artificial lakes. Horseback riding, both indoors and outdoors, horse sledge picnics by torchlight in wintry woods with mulled wine and snacks – all this is offered by Timmo Stables near Põlva 68 and several tourist farms.

Skiing fans can participate in the Tartu Cross-Country Marathon, belonging to the Worldloppet series. Its 60-

kilometre track from Otepää 48 to Elva can be cycled through on mountain bikes in summer. Various activities are offered by Junsi Holiday Centre near Kõpu 69 including ATV trips, ri-fle shooting, motor and canoe trips to Soomaa and “blood-less hunting” with the camera. The water festival and inflat-able boat race in Rõuge 30 are fun for everyone. You can go

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Pilistvere

characteristically Estonian dishes are served by many taverns, restaurants and pubs. Tourist farms are also known for their excellent food. In Setumaa in south-east Estonia try baked potatoes with sau-erkraut, cottage cheese and raisin bread. Wash it down with mead and the local white whiskey called “hansa” to the back-ground of live music. Local organic food products and outdoor grilling are held in high esteem here. Estonians value es-pecially highly domestic milk and meat products, rye and barley bread. In Tartu visit the riverside vegetable and flower market, even just for fun or to see col-ourful country types.

Tartu 1 has a lively cultural life all year round where the youthful high-

lights are the Hansa days and the stu-dents’ days with the relay race in car-nival costumes and the inflatable boat race on the River Emajõgi. A comprehen-

pheasant hunting at Taagepera Castle 41 , while the main organiser of hunting tourism is the State Forest Management Centre RMK.

In Võrumaa, families with children should certainly visit the Metsamoori

Family Park in Mähkli 36 , and the Poku-maa hiking trail in Visela 37 . In Nursi 70 in Midriait you can try your weaving skills. July and August are the best months for picking berries and wild mushrooms in the woods with the help of a good guidebook. This very popular tradition in Estonia is almost forgotten in Western Europe but you only have to compare the taste of the wild blackberry to that of the cultivated blackberry, and you will see the difference!

If you are looking for something spe-cial visit the Sleep Centre in Kubija

71 to check the quality of your sleep,

to cure insomnia and generally improve your health. A wide range of medical and recreational services is available in Pühajärve 52 spa. While you are in South Estonia, try out the smoke sauna where it is customary to beat oneself with ju-niper, nettle or birch twigs, whereafter you can spoil yourself with delicious lo-cal beer and food. Another possibility is to combine canoeing with a barrel sau-na experience: it is a giant wooden bar-rel that is filled with water heated by an underwater stove. Karuskose Holiday Centre in Soomaa 55 attracts visitors with its floating sauna called Pühamüristus (Good Heavens); a similar one can be found in Paunküla Holiday Centre.

WWW:www.kagureis.ee | www.suusaliit.eewww.junsi.ee | www.taageperaloss.eewww.pokumaa.eewww.kaikakant.ee/metsamoorwww.kubija.ee | www.pyhajarve.com

...and places to go

In Tartu there is Püssirohukelder (Gun-powder Cellar) with its impressive inte-

rior, the restaurant-club Maailm (World),

the Werner and Wilde cafés, the night-club Atlantis right next to the River Emajõgi, and a number of other cosy or trendy places. In Tammekännu Holiday Centre near Põlva in Mammaste 68 one can try the menu based on thousand-year-old recipes and before that enjoy activities in the nature. Modern and yet

sive overview of Estonian history and cul-ture is provided by the Estonian National Museum and of art, by the Art Museum. Quality handicraft can be found at Antoniuse Guild. The grand open-air per-formances of Vanemuine Theatre in sum-mer have become a tradition. The well-known expression in Estonia, “the Tartu

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Smoke sauna in South Estonia

Lake Music Festival at Leigo

spirit”, signifies the academic-bohemian atmosphere and the inexplicable “some-thing else”, which you simply have to ex-perience yourself.

In summer there is an impressive open-air Lake Music Festival at Leigo 72 near

Otepää. The eventful summers in Viljandi 53 culminate with the Old Music Festival and the traditional music festival Viljandi Folk. The Kondas Centre exhibits excit-ing paintings by Paul Kondas, the best-known naïve artist in Estonia. The most important cultural event in Võru 28 is the international folklore festival accompa-nied by a handicraft fair. In the Bagpipe Farm in Riidaja 73 you can listen to a live bagpipe ensemble and see how this in-strument is made. The farm serves tra-ditional Estonian food, and don’t be sur-prised to find there also a small airstrip. At the Hellenurme water mill 74 visitors can see how grain is turned into flour and taste oven-warm bread. You can walk in the beautiful garden in Kaasiku Farm 75 and visit their lace chamber; Lusika Farm 76 has a lovely rose garden. In the mu-seum of regional history in Heimtali 59 textile artist Anu Raud has assembled a complete collection of Estonian nation-al handicrafts; there are knitted toy ani-mals with traditional patterns on display.

Koluvere Castle

SOUTH ESTONIA

Läänemaa

Haapsalu 1 was granted the rights of town in 1279 and nowadays it

is the administrative centre of Lääne County. Its main attraction is the epis-copal castle that today accommodates a museum and a café, and hosts plays

16

Võru Folklore Festival

For a better understanding of Estonian contemporary history one should vis-

it the Forest Brother’s farm in Vastse-Roosa Village 77 which restores the scene of freedom fighting in Estonia af-ter World War II when thousands of men and women went into hiding in forests and swamps, not being able to accept the Soviet occupation. One can spend the night in an ascetic underground bun-ker; the local theatre troupe revives a piece of history – a battle between the freedom fighters and the Russian secu-rity forces.

WWW:www.vanemuine.ee | www.erm.eewww.tammekanuu.ee | www.leigo.eewww.folk.ee | www.werro.ee/folkloor

and concerts in its courtyard. At full moon in August a translucent figure of a woman – the White Lady – appears in the window of the baptistery of Dome Church, the largest one-nave church in the Baltics. The old city centre is char-acterised by a miniature town hall and romantic wooden dwelling houses. By the seaside Promenade stands Kuursaal, one of the finest wooden buildings in Estonia, which houses a summer restau-rant. The first mud spa opened its doors in Haapsalu in 1825. Haapsalu was the favourite holiday spot for the family of Russian czars and the famous composer Peter Tchaikovsky among others. Today, people are attracted to Haapsalu by its historic and maritime ambience and by the Paralepa beach.

Haapsalu was a source of inspiration for Ilon Wikland who grew up here

and later illustrated the children’s books of the world famous Swedish writer Ast-

r id L indgren. From the 13th cen tu r y un -til World War II there was a large Swedish community in West Estonia, which explains why so many l o c at ions i n the area have Swedish names.

To get a glimpse of the culture and histo-ry of the people called Coastal Swedes, you can visit special museums in Haap-salu and Saare (Lyckholm) 2 .

The landscape in Noarootsi is dotted with low lakes and thickets of reeds – tens of thousands of birds touch down

here in their spring migration. One will find nice beaches in Österby 3 and by the Roosta Resort 4 and can visit Noa-rootsi Tavern 5 in Pürksi for a meal. The island of Vormsi 6 with its juniper fields, seaside meadows, erratic boulders and lighthouses is best toured on a bicycle or on foot. The grave-yard of Vormsi Church (1632) is famous for numerous an-cient circular crosses.

WEST ESTONIA

Matsalu National Park is a real paradise for bird watchers: it is an important migration stopover and nesting place

for birds. 275 species of birds, 49 species of fish and 47 spe-cies of mammals have been recorded here. More information on hiking trails, bird-watching towers and boat rides is available in the centre of the national park in Penijõe 7 . Characteristic of Marimetsa Nature Protection Area 8 is a bog with numer-ous pools, sand dunes covered with pine forest, a boardwalk hiking route and observation towers.

People interested in history should visit the well-preserved Koluvere Order Castle 9 , medieval churches in Kullamaa

10 and Ridala 11 , and the museum of local history in Lihula Manor House 12 . There are vast expanses of land in Läänemaa and it is a nice area for just wandering around in the fields of junipers or at the seaside.

INFO:Tourist Information Centre: +372 473 3248e-mail haapsalu@visitestonia.comWWW:www.aiboland.ee | www.matsalu.ee | www.eoy.ee

Hiiumaa

Hiiumaa is famous for its virgin nature, picturesque coast-al landscapes and a peaceful pace of life. Already on

the mainland, in Rohuküla Harbour waiting for the ferry to Heltermaa a peculiar peaceful and pleasant feeling will sink in.

17

Haapsalu Castle

Promenade in Haapsalu

Tahkuna

The county centre Kärdla 13 is a cosy little town with small wood-

en houses, beautiful gardens and a nice beach. Most of Hiiumaa is cov-ered with forests; the Kõpu Lighthouse 14 – the symbol of Hiiumaa – rising high above treetops attracts the eye from a great distance. This impos-ing structure was erected in the first half of the 16th cen-tury and is the world’s third-oldest operating lighthouse. The windy, shingled beach of the Ristna Peninsula 15 has made it a popular surfing centre. Luidja 16 is famous for its beau-

tiful beach and Reigi 17 for its church, known from “The Vicar of Reigi”, a novel by Aino Kallas. Near Kärdla is Ristimägi (Cross Hill) 18 with thousands of cross-es made by visitors from rocks, leaves or branches. At the tip of the Tahkuna Peninsula 19 there is a fine lighthouse and a me-morial to the children who per-ished in the disaster of the fer-ry Estonia; nearby are ruins of military installations from vari-

ous periods of time. The shoreline of the peninsula is ideal for long walks in search of inner calm.

The oldest place of worship on the island is Pühalepa Church 20 with a unique stone pulpit. The splendid Suuremõisa

Castle is close by. Driving towards Käina one passes the Vaemla wool factory 21 where one can watch the work of centuries-old machinery, buy local products and refreshments in the café. The nar-row Sääre peninsu-la in the southwest of Kassari Island 22 stretches far into the sea; with its warm coastal wa-ter it is a great sunbathing and bathing spot. Other places worth visiting in Kassari are the Hiiumaa Museum and the unique reed-roofed chapel. Hiking on the Orjaku 23 nature trail one can observe a host of birds in the Bay of Käina. Up to 10 metres high ju-

nipers in Nasva 24 are a must see. Tough and aromatic juni-per wood and products craft-ed from it are the trademark of the Estonian islands. Both Kassari and Käina offer plenty of places for dining and stay-ing the night.

INFO:Tourist Information Centre: +372 462 2232e-mail hiiumaa@visitestonia.comWWW:www.saared.ee | www.hiiumaa.eeturism.moonsund.ee

Saaremaa

Estonia’s largest island Saaremaa is a beloved destination for hiking, holiday-making or for just enjoying sea breeze

and beautiful sights. After taking a ferry from Virtsu you arrive first in Muhumaa. There is Muhu Church 25 in the Gothic style (1267), Koguva Village 26 with its old farm buildings, stone fences and draw wells, and Pädaste Manor 27 which offers luxury accommodations and top-of-the-line cuisine. A working windmill can be found in Linnuse Village 28 and an ostrich farm nearby. The atmosphere and nature on islets such as Kõinastu, Võilaid and Suurelaid are also worth discovering.

The sea dam a c r o s s t h e

Strait of Väike Väin takes you to Saare-maa where you will probably want to see Kuressaare, the island’s capital first. Short detours along the way are certainly reward-ing. In Pöide 29 towers a massive 13th century fortified church and not far away you will find Kahutsi earthen stronghold and a boarded trail in the Koigi Bog. As imposing as Pöide is Valjala Church 30 , the oldest one in Saaremaa with its unique frescos. Close by are the remains of Valjala Stronghold that was the last in Estonia to surrender to the German Teutonic Knights in 1227.

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Kõpu Lighthouse

Sääre Peninsula

Muhu Church

in dining and entertainment spots, sev-eral high-standard health spas, and a yachting harbour. South of Kuressaare lies the protected Loode oak wood, and further down the Sõrve Peninsula where in World War II some of the heaviest battles in Estonia took place.

Near Kõljala you will find the round-shaped Kaali Lake 31 , set in a me-

teorite crater and, a rare natural object in the context of the whole world. The “space rock” that hit the Kaali area only a few thousand years ago is the last known meteorite to hit a densely pop-

ulated area. This is why it has shaped not only the local landscape but the my-thology as well. The “Kaali catastrophy”, comparable to a nuclear blast, has in-spired writers and historians (including Lennart Meri, President of Estonia in 1992–2001) to link the local “big bang” to the roots of Fenno-Ugric mythology or the Phaethon’s flight and fall in Greek mythology.

The “brand” of Kuressaare 32 is a very well preserved 14th century episco-

pal castle which houses the Museum of Saaremaa. Visitors of the castle can order medieval dinner and enjoy the view over the town and the sea opening from the tower café. The old town, built between the 17th and 19th centuries, abounds

In northwest Saaremaa near Kihelkonna you will find the Mihkli Farm Museum

33 . What makes it unique is the fact that the items on display in this fully pre-served farmhouse complex have been made on the farm over six generations. Loona Manor 34 houses the centre of Vil-sandi National Park which encompasses

around 100 small islands. Tens of thou-sands of waterfowl migrate through or nest in the national park, and most of the Baltic grey seals come to breed in Innarahu Reserve. Vilsandi Island can be reached by boat from the harbour of Papisaare or if the sea level is low, by

walking across through the water. Access to the nesting areas of birds and animals is limited to tourists. A beautiful view on the islands opens also from the peninsula of Harilaid 35 , whose tip is adorned with a tilted lighthouse. Nature-lovers will en-joy a visit to Viidumäe Nature Protection Area, the centre of which is in Audaku 36 . There is a museum that has an exhibition of rare and protected plants.

One of the attractions in Saaremaa is the steep and impressive limestone

cliff on the northern coast at Ninase 37 and Panga 38 where it rises 21 metres above the sea level. Culturally and histor-ically interesting are the windmills at Angla 39 ; the medieval, rustic Karja church

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19

Koguva Village

Kuressaare

Kaali Lake Limestone Cliff at Panga

40 without a steeple is rich in unique hewn sculptures and frescos. In Laugu Village 41 there is a glassblower’s work-shop where you can watch masters at work and even try out their craft. Near Triigi Harbour 42 you will find the arbore-tum and spelling and ritual grounds of a famous Estonian healer Vigala Sass. From Triigi you can take a ferry to Hiiumaa; boat trips in the Strait of Väike Väin start from Orissaare Harbour 43 . The interest-ing ruins of Maasi Order Castle 44 are also worth a visit.

One of the popular holiday spots is Lake Karujärv 45 . There are several

beaches by the seaside and even more places with a sea-view for walking and

camping in Saaremaa. Those looking for an “island of their own” can take a boat from Kuressaare to Abruka Island 46 .

INFO:Tourism Information Centre: +372 453 3120e-mail kuressaare@visitestonia.comWWW:www.saaremaa.ee | www.kuressaare.eewww.muinas.ee/ecp/kaali/enwww.saaremaamuuseum.ee | www.vigalasass.com

Summer capital Pärnu

Pärnu 47 is a popular summer desti-nation, a seaside resort, and a town

with a lively cultural life. Its shady parks, beautiful sandy beach and quality restau-rants, cafés, spas and nightclubs help you recharge your batteries whether you trav-el with a family or look for adventures on your own. For a change one can visit the local theatre, museums, numerous con-

certs and exhibitions. A dedicated visi-tor to the summer capital Pärnu is like-ly to have neither time nor mood to go to the countryside. Yet some landmarks of Estonian culture and plenty of sites of natural heritage in Pärnu County are worth mentioning.

Vändra 48 and its neighbourhood which was the home of a number

of important figures in the history of Estonian culture; the Kurgja farm mu-seum 49 ; Tõstamaa 50 Islets Protection Area; Tori Stud Farm 51 and the part of Soomaa National Park belonging to Pärnu County. Viisireiu Watermill 52 which is still in operation in Tali par-ish; the museum introducing the histo-ry of local wool industry in Sindi 53 , and not far from it the oldest, over 9,000 years old settlement site in Estonia in

Pulli Village. The holiday centre in Silla 54 on the Reiu River with a swimming spot and a small open air stage. In Mihkli there is a church 55 built in 1226, where the famous chronicler Latvian Henrik once served as a priest, and a protect-ed oak forest. The Soontagana earth-en stronghold 56 that lies on a high bog island; hiking trails and an obser-vation tower nearby. A unique railway museum in Lavassaare 57 ; a hiking cen-tre for bicyclists in Oidrema Manor 58 ; Nigula Nature Reserve with its centre in Vanajärve 59 .

A must see destination in West Estonia is the island of Kihnu 60 attracting

travellers with its virgin nature and tran-quillity. In Kihnu the centuries-old tra-ditions are still part of everyday life – the local dialect, national costumes and handicrafts, dances and songs. The area of Kihnu culture has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The ad-venture begins as soon as you board a ferry or a fishing boat to the island.

INFO:Pärnu Tourism Information Centre +372 447 3000e-mail parnu@visitestonia.comWWW:www.parnu.ee | www.pernau.ee | www.nigula.ee

Things to do...

There are many picturesque seashores, varied landscapes as well as hiking

and nature study routes in West Estonia. Here you can go bird or game watching or looking for rare orchids. A good over-view of the surroundings is provided by marked bicycle routes, and bikes can be rented in lots of places. You can always stop on your way and have a look at how the locals live. Although Estonian country people are not always open and talkative right away, they are generally friendly and helpful.

Those who feel comfortable at sea can contact Saarte Loodusmatkad who

organise sea canoe trips to the islands

Kihnu girls

Pärnu beach

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20

the summer the streets and the open-air stages of Episcopal Castle are filled with folk music, opera and rock. The White Lady Days and the Medieval Haapsalu festivals add a bit of mystery with a fla-vour of history. The best souvenir is a hand-woven woollen kerchief or shawl with a complicated pattern which are known as Haapsalu shawls or “miracles in lace”. Modern art is displayed at the local Linnagalerii.

Saaremaa is famed for its opera days, held in the courtyard of Kuressaare

Castle and for the Saaremaa Waltz Festival which has become a com-mon friendly festivity of the two kin-dred peoples – Estonians and Finns. The programme includes a competition for young talents attended by popular stars from both countries. The Kures-saare Sea Days Festival is an enjoyable

of Vilsandi 61 and Abruka 46 and to the islets surrounding Hiiumaa. Many tourist farms rent out rowing and paddle boats for shorter trips and offer fishing as well as bird and game watching services. For those interested in military history there are special tours in Tahkuna 19 . Between Pärnu and Ikla one will find beautiful beaches and wild berry forests.

Lots of tourist farms offer horse-back riding and carriage rides. In

Tori 51 one can learn about the histo-ry of horse breeding in the Stud Farm founded in 1856. In Tihuse Riding Farm 62 in Hellamaa on the island of Muhu

you can plough the field with a horse and do other farmwork. Families with children should certainly visit the Raja Farm mini-zoo 63 in Sigaste Village in Pärnumaa where you can see and make friends with miniature pigs, cows, goats and other tiny animals.

Golf players are welcome at the golf courses in Haapsalu 64 and Valge-

ranna 65 . Roosta 4 , Linnumäe 14 and Reiu 54 holiday centres offer a variety of activities. There are six spa hotels in Pärnu 47 offering the best medical and recreational services. The best known types of treatment are mud baths, mas-sage, laser and paraffin treatments, and salt and cold therapy. Other larger spas are Rüütli, Meri and Saaremaa Valss in Kuressaare 32 and Fra Mare in Haapsalu 1 . The Port of Pärnu also offers yacht rentals and pleasure trips on the sea.

WWW:www.roosta.ee | www.sanatoorium.eewww.framare.ee | www.miniloomad.ee

... and places to go

There are many excellent places to eat in Pärnu such as the luxurious Ammen-

de Villa with its French-Mediterranean cuisine, Postipoiss Tavern specialising in Slavic cuisine, the restaurant in Ranna-hotell and Kuld Lõvi Tavern 66 just out-side of the town. Pädaste Manor 27 on

Muhu Island has won international ac-claim among gourmets. In Haapsalu you will find the Kuursaal summer café and several unique restaurants in the old town. Kuressaare welcomes its visitors with dozens of cosy and exciting dining and entertainment spots. The restaurant in the Liilia Hotel in Käina 67 is consid-ered to be the best in Hiiumaa. An inter-esting restaurant is in the former vodka distillery of Kõrgessaare 68 Manor.

In smaller rural villages one will find both quite ordinary dining places as

well as taverns and cafés with unique and characteristic cuisine, interesting interiors and colourful local visitors. In tourist farms you can order simple, organic farm food, in coastal villages smoked fish. “Made in Saaremaa” is a strong brand in Estonia, be it smoked ham, vodka, or spring water.

There are several ar t galleries in Pärnu, including the Museum of

New Art and the Estonian Lithographic Centre which introduces visitors to var-ious exciting graphic techniques. Pärnu also hosts the reputable International Documentary and Anthropology Film Festival. The David Oistrakh Festival in midsummer brings to Pärnu top-class musicians and exciting new works from all over the world. There are also the Pärnu Opera Days and Klaaspärlimäng Festival, as well as several other musical events that cater for many preferences and tastes. And last but not least, there is Endla Theatre with its interesting pro-gramme of plays.

Haapsalu is known for its Old Music Festival, Violin Festival and the

Blues Festival in August. Throughout

Midsummer Celebrations in Saaremaa

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family event focusing around sea-related themes and activities, visits to yachts and sailing trips, sea shanteys, and an open-air market. While there are also many great events taking place in Hiiumaa, let it stay, first and foremost, a haven of peace and quiet!

The Estonian Railway Museum in Lavas-saare 57 is the third-largest of its kind

in Europe and impresses visitors with its extensive display of rolling stock, a func-tioning railway line and a museum train.

21

Souvenir shops and other tourist attractions are generally open 7 days a week from 10 am to 6 pm.

Most service personnel speak adequate English, Finnish and Russian.

Traffic and transportation You can enter Estonia by air (www.tallinn-airport.ee), by road

via Latvia or by ferry from Rostock (www.silja.ee), Helsinki or Stockholm (www.tallink.ee).

For getting around you can rent a car (all major car rental com-panies are represented). There is regular bus service between all major towns and villages (www.bussireisid.ee).

There are few bicycle routes in Estonian towns but their number is growing, as is the number of marked bicycle routes in the countryside.

Neither pedestrians, bicyclists nor motorists should forget that sometimes the Estonian traffic culture leaves much to be de-sired. While the majority of motorists are polite to others, there are some who give driving a bad name. Fortunately, the situa-tion is improving.

Photos: Lembit Michelson, Ingmar Muusikus, Jüri Seljamaa, Jarek Jõepera, Malev Toom, Mark Raidpere, Priit Simson, Vano Allsalu

The Republic of Estonia in a nutshell:

Official name: the Republic of Estonia (Eesti Vabariik in Estonian).

Area: 45,227 sq km (around 10% of the territory is comprised of 1,520 islands, 5% of inland waters, 48% of forests, 7% of bogs and 37% of farmland).

Population: 1.36 million (68% Estonians, 26% Russians, 2% Ukrainians, 1% Belorussians and 1% Finns); 68% of population are urban inhabitants.

Capital: Tallinn (397,000 inhabitants). Distances from Tallinn: Helsinki 85 km, Riga 307 km,

St. Petersburg 395 km, Stockholm 405 km. Official language: Estonian. System of government: parliamen-

tary democracy. Independence day: 24 February. National bird: barn swallow. National flower: cornflower.

There is also a railway museum in Haap-salu 1 . The Mihkli Farm Museum 33 in Saaremaa and the Soera Farm Museum in Hiiumaa in Palade 69 give an insight into the everyday life of Estonian country folk in the past. In the latter one can go to a genuine smoke sauna, taste home-made beer and fish and listen to accor-dion music. In the Kurgja farm museum 49 in Pärnumaa the land is farmed and animals bred in the traditional, centu-ries-old way.

WWW:www.padaste.eewww.ammende.eewww.kuldlovi.eewww.operadays.eewww.ee/eesti-mr

WEST ESTONIA

Good to know Time zone: Eastern European

(GMT +02:00). Average temperatures: July be-

tween 16 °C and 20 °C (max 30 °C), February between –3 °C and –7 °C (www.weather.ee); the climate is varia-ble; coastal areas are often windy and humid due to the proximity of the sea.

Currency and credit cards The currency is the Estonian kroon (EEK)

(1 EUR = 15.6466 EEK). Most shops, restaurants, hotels and service providers accept

major international credit cards. Currency can be exchanged at banks and currency exchange

bureaus (at Tallinn Passenger Port, Tallinn Airport, central rail-way station, hotels, supermarkets and elsewhere); traveller's cheques are cashed by banks (www.hansa.ee, www.eyp.ee, www.sampo.ee, etc).

In towns there are many ATMs, but take along some cash when you go to the countryside.

While Estonian restaurants include the service charge in their bills, you are welcome to add 10% as a tip.

Shopping Most shops are open from 9 am to 7 pm on workdays and for

more limited hours on weekends. Supermarkets and shopping centres are open 7 days a week

from 9 am to 9 pm (some until 11 pm).

Layout: TANK; text: Vano Allsalu; designer: Kaido Känd. Data as of January 2005.

There are a number of manned petrol stations (such as Statoil and Lukoil) and unmanned petrol stations (Neste, 123, Uno X) that operate 24 hours and accept both cash and credit cards.

For 24-hour towing and car assistance dial 1888. Before set-ting out please check www.balticroads.net for road informa-tion.

Traffic rules and regulations Speed limit: 50 km/h in urban areas; 90 km/h on roads, unless

otherwise signposted. Headlights must be turned on and safety belts fastened in both

front and rear seats. Driving under the influence of alcohol or other intoxicating sub-

stances is punishable by law! There is paid parking in most town centres. Look for more in-

formation on special signs and parking metres. In the case of a traffic accident call the police. If there are no

injuries and the drivers involved in the accident reach a consen-sus, they can prepare a written report on all circumstances and facts in two copies, without calling the police.

Telephone and Internet Estonia's area code is +372. To place an international call start

by dialling 00. Public phones are operated by telephone cards (50 EEK or

100 EEK) on sale in hotels, tourist information centres, post of-fices, newsstands, etc.

Prepaid mobile phone cards (Simpel, Pop, Zen, Ultra, Smart) are on sale in petrol stations, newsstands, post offices, shop-ping centres and telephone stores. The largest mobile phone operator is EMT (www.emt.ee).

There are over 700 public Internet access points in Estonia (regio.delfi.ee/ipunktid) and about 400 mostly free wireless Internet areas in hotels, pubs, libraries, petrol stations, parks and elsewhere (www.wifi.ee).

For any inquiries (telephone numbers, addresses, public in-formation, etc.) dial 1182 (Ekspress Hotline, www.1182.ee) or 1188 (Infoabi, www.1188.ee) for a fee-based information service.

For emergencies, dial 110 for police or 112 for ambulance and fire department.

Travel Informationwww.riik.ee/enwww.vm.ee/eng www.rmk.ee www.turismiweb.eewww.maaturism.eewww.regio.eewww.balticsworldwide.comwww.inyourpocket.com/estonia/en

Culturewww.culture.eewww.festivals.ee www.estonica.orgwww.laulupidu.eewww.estoniantheatre.infowww.estmusic.comwww.kunstikeskus.ee www.estlit.eewww.piletilevi.ee

ENG

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