event and celebrations - october 2014

8/10/2019 Event and Celebrations - October 2014

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HEIDI MAE BRATT

When Northern Valley Affairs at Temple Ema-nu-El in Closter caters its bar mitzvah lun-cheon in Decemeber, smack dab in the mid-dle of the Festival of Lights, there will be

plenty of latkes and menorahs to sate the stomachsand souls of guests as they double up on the celebra-tion: the coming of age of a young Jewish man and thetriumph of several young Jewish men, the Maccabees,over the Syrian-Greek enemies led by Antiochus.

Were carrying on the Chanukah tradition as wecelebrate the bar mitzvah, said Les Friedman, princi-pal owner of Northern Valley Affairs.

Its a natural that we would have a Chanukah-themed bar mitzvah.

In addition to the huge silver menorahs and darkchocolate coined gelt that will adorn every table,the event will highlight Jewish culinary favorites onits old-fashioned Jewish food bar, which will featureDr. Browns sodas, four kinds of the oil-rich Chanukahstaple, latkes (i.e. sweet potato and craisins; juliennedvegetable; good-old potato; and mushroom quinoa),brisket, knishes and more. Of course, guests will also

have their pick of four flavors of another Chanukahrequisite, jelly donuts, including raspberry, apricot,cherry and lemon-filled varieties.

Winter holiday time is high time for area caterers,bakers, liquor purveyors, and others who kick into highgear to accommodate the sweep of the end-of-the-yearholiday season, beginning with Thanksgiving, followedby Chanukah and then the secular New Years Eve.

Just desserts are hardly that at the deft and cre-ative hand of Krystina Gianaris, owner of Cake & Co., acake boutique in Teaneck. She will be offering any fla-vored cakes designed with a decorative turkey and fallleaves. For Chanukah, cookies shaped as dreidels and

menorahs, as well as cakes that will feature menorahs

Thanksgiving treats from Cake & Co in Teaneck.

The end-of-the-year affair

Caterers and cooksgear up for celebrations

will also be available for order. All goodies arekosher and pareve.

Getting into the spirit of the holiday, CharlesYalovit ser, the owner of B&B Liquo rs in Fair

Lawn, said that the Thanksgiving, Chanukah,


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S-4 Jewish Standard, Rockland Jewish Standard FALL 2014EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS

New Years end-of-the-year celebrations usually followa steady pattern, but business definitely booms duringthis period.

For Thanksgiving, Yalovitser said, red wine, espe-cially Beaujolais, is a big seller, as is beer, a necessityfor some who sit down to watch the requisite football

game after enjoying a hearty and delicious meal withfamily. Micro brews are especially popular these days,he said.

In addition, Yalovitser said, European brands are

popular for vodka and cognac. For New Years Eve,there is always a bit of the bubbly, champagne, to helpherald 2015.

Many restaurants that typically host events willclose their doors on Thanksgiving Day, such as ClydeFrasiers Wine and Dine, the basketball greats epony-

mous restaurant on 10th Avenue in Manhattan. ButClyde himself will make an appearance at a specialparty at the restaurant on Dec. 14, in which toys col-lected in a drive during September for underprivileged

youngsters will be distributed, said Sam Boudloche,the catering sales manager of Clyde Frasiers. The res-taurant will be open on New Years Eve and serve up itsregular fare.

Mega market Fairway not only celebrates food andevents with its special menus for the holidays for cater-

ing including kosher catering but also goes a stepfurther. On Saturday, Nov. 13, Fairway is title sponsorwith an in-kind donation of food for participants of aThanksgiving family 5K event that will be held on LongIsland at Eisenhower Park in East Meadow.

Additionally, on Friday, Dec. 5, Fairway will takepart in the sixth annual New York Latke Festival, whichwill take place in at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Man-hattan. Folks are welcomed to watch and enjoy as res-taurants create their version of this favorite Chanukahstaple and vie for Best Latke, Peoples Choice andBest Latke, Judges Choice. Proceeds will benefit The

Sylvia Center, a nonprofit organization dedicated toteaching children how to cook and eat well.At the Teaneck Marriott at Glenpointe, direc-

tor of sales and marketing Mitchell Heymann saysthere will be a special Thanksgiving buffet in itsrestaurant, Pancetta, which will features such dishesas roasted pumpkin bisque, baby spinach salad

with cranberries and pecans, roasted turkey, braisedshort ribs of beef, maple glazed salmon, linguini

with fennel, and more.Another area hotel restaurant, Two Henrys in the

Hilton Pearl River, is offering a holiday culinary treat.There will be a Thanksgiving buffet banquet for any-

one who wants to feast on turkey and the trimmingsand more.

Noam Sokolow, president of Rave and Noahs Ark,is gearing up for a busy end-of-year holiday season.For its 25th year, diners can order a complete Thanks-giving package for 10 to 12 people, which includesturkey, a chunky vegetable soup, stuffing, sides, andpie. Or, said Sokolow, customers can choose fromtheir Pieces, Portions, and Pounds option, with moregourmet offerings such as prime rib, London broil,rack of lamb, duck, and mesquite turkey, amongother choices.

When Chanukah rolls around, its a celebration of

all things fried. I love Chanukah, Sokolow quipped.Theres so much oil.

To that end, potato latkes, including a super-sized12 to 16-ounce version are available, as are other veg-etable varieties of latkes. In addition, whatever canbe fried is, from chicken, southern fried or pretzel, toOreos to pastrami. Noahs Ark also offers deli and otherfood platters for Chanukah parties.

Julie Bannon, the marketing manager at KingsFood Market, which has 25 locations in the tri-statearea, said this is the time of year that things get verybusy.

Oh my gosh, yes, this is a big caterer season, saidBannon.For Thanksgiving, Kings Food Market will be offer-

ing several different turkeys, including an apricot-glazed, rosemary turkey, turkey off the bone, anti-biotic free and organic. Even before the big bird comesout, starters will include a spiced pumpkin soup anda phyllo pastry with pear, Brie and almond. Its specialChanukah menu will feature matzah ball soup, potatolatkes, brisket, salmon, kugels and more.

Jennifer Brown, the catering director at Kings FoodMarket, said that the catering trend has been towardmore traditional holiday fare. In addition, people are

looking for high-quality food that can be deliveredwith greater convenience.

Some people do like to cook, but there are manypeople who want to be out of the kitchen and havemore time to enjoy the holiday with their families, Ms.Brown said.

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The joy of blackEverything you ever wanted to know about the little black dress but were afraid to ask

JUNE GLAZER

Since its debut 88 years ago, theLittle Black Dress has become theessential of womens wardrobes.Nowadays known simply as LBD,

no other piece of clothing is as iconicor ubiquitous, and fashion history hasdecreed that every woman should haveone hanging in her closet.

The Little Black Dress first made itsappearance in 1926, when Vogue maga-zine published a drawing of a designby Coco Chanel, a fashion trendsetterin the 20th century. It was a simple yetelegant sheath in black crepe de Chine,with long , narr ow slee ves and wornwith a string of white pearls. Chanelsconcept was to create a convenient eve-ning dress that could be easily acces-sorized for fancier occasions, and Voguepredicted then that it would becomea fashion staple, as popular and indis-pensable as Fords Model T car.

In fact, the Little Black Dress has rev-olutionized womens fashion, and evenhas earned an entry in the Oxford Dic-tionary, where it is defined as, A womans

short or medium-length black dress suit-able for almost any social engagement.

Since its appearance in the pages ofVogue, key developments have shapedthe history of the LBD. In the 1930s, itmorphed into the Little Black FlapperDress, with beaded decoration, a loose-fitting design, and an association withjazz and rebellious behavior. In the daysof rationing during World War II, theLBD was popular because it could beworn dressed down and still look chic.

In the 1950s, with the ascendanceof Hollywood and star allure, theLBD shed its conservative image andbecame sexy and glamorousthe per-fect onscreen femme fatale costume.At the same time, designer Diors full-skirted interpretation became hugelypopular, a welcomed contrast to theconservative trend necessitated by thewar years of the previous decade.

The 60s fostered a younger, hip-per style and produced perhaps themost famous Little Black Dress of alltime, the one actress Audrey Hepburn

wore in the opening scene of the 1961romantic comedy film Breakfast atTiffanys. (In 2006, one of two copiesof the dress, designed for Hepburn byHubert de Givenchy, sold at auction formore than $900,000.)

A shift toward punk marked thedress design in the 70s, with more sheerfabrics, more lace, and more attitude.Dresses were worn ripped, cut, safety-pinned, and even made from PVC andcomplemented with fishnet stockings.

Peplum celebrated the LBD in the1980s, with the styles nipped waistand fabric hovering at the hips. Also,broad shoulders with elaborate embel-lishments such as sequins put distancebetween this and the previous decade,but were sacrificed in the 90s when thegrunge culture brought the LBD backto its more simplistic interpretation,albeit tighter and shorter, and wore the

dress with sandals and combat boots.The new millennium saw the LBD takeon bandeau and baby-doll party dresslooks, and more recently a bodycon fit

with influences from the 1980s.Its anyones guess what the future

of the LBD will bring, but the world canrest assured that this 88-year-old classicis not going away anytime soon. Rather,the stylish, versatile, and long-lastingLittle Black Dress will remain an essen-

tial piece in designer-collections. Securein its place at the highest levels of fash-ion, it will continue to evolve with thechanging times.


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Is it magic?Caterers reveal their secrets

JUNE GLAZER

I

f youve ever attended a wedding,rehearsal dinner, bar mitzvah, fund-raiser, book signing, or any myriad

of affairs where elegant food is fea-tured, chances are you were at a cateredevent. And no matter the number ofguestsfrom under 50 to more than500chances are the food was tastyand attractive, the quantities plentiful,and the service seamless.

Have you ever wondered how cater-ers make all that happen?

Theres no magic involved, saidAri Starkman, owner of The Elan, a full-service banquet facility located in Lodi.A lot of things go into preparing food

for an event and they all have to workin harmony. As a caterer, its my jobto oversee all those components andmake sure the food arrives hot and ontime, said Starkman, who developedhis buck-stops-here approach duringeight years as a general manager at alarge, New York City-based off-premisescaterer and over the past four years asproprietor of The Elan.

Jackie Trowbridge, catering man-ager at The Market Basket, a 50-year-oldgourmet food establishment in FranklinLakes that provides cooked food andservice staff for off-premise parties, saysthat for her the key to orchestrating anevent is coordinating food preparation,cooking times, and delivery to final des-tination. With these three elements

synchronized, the amount of volumewe do on any given weekend is unbe-lievable. We can cater 20, 50, even 80

parties in one day, she said.So, how do the professionalsaccomplish the seemingly impossibletask of making hot, well-presented foodappear on the plates of hundreds ofguests at more or less the same time?Heres a behind-the-scenes look at howthey do it.

TALK, TALK, TALK

The first step is for the caterer to speakwith the client to get as much informa-tion as possible about the kind of event

he or she has in mind.Before clients even come in, I talk

with them on the phon e to find outas much as I can, said Les Friedmanof Northern Valley Affairs at TempleEmanu-El in Closter. I want to knowwhat date and time they have in mind,what kind of event it will be, how manyguests they expect, what budget theyhave to work with, menu possibilities.Then, I encourage them to come in andsee the venue, preferably when its set

up for another event so they can checkout my linens, my silverware, my china.I also invite them to a food tasting.

With a clear understanding of whatthe client wants, a caterer will thenput together a detailed proposal that

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includes an actual menu, beverages, a list of equip-ment to rent, staff requirements, and food or beveragetaxes when applicable. Once the client accepts theproposal, books a date, and leaves a deposit, the cater-er begins planning for the event in earnest.

PLAN, PLAN, PLANNowadays, many caterers use software programs toassist them in this phase of the operation. These pro-grams help them keep track of and manage everyaspect of an event and also enable them to create aprecise floor plan of the venue. A floor plan is impor-tant because it shows the exact location of things likethe smorgasbord, chuppah, buffet, dance floor, tables,chairs, and even place settings, said Yossi Abadi,owner and operating manager of The Palisadium inCliffside Park. He uses a software program developedespecially for him and his venue, and says the floor

plan feature is crucial, not only for him and his staff asthey plan and set up, but also for the clients, so theycan see where everything will go, and make sure itsgoing to be just the way they want it.

Next, the caterer compiles a detailed schedule thataccounts for each moment of the event, from setupto breakdown. Friedman at Northern Valley Affairslikes to allow an hour to an hour and a quarter for thecocktail hour, a half hour for the ceremony (if there isone), 15 minutes for guests to get from the ceremonyto the ballroom, and about 4 hours in the ballroom.He cautions, however, that timelines should not becarved in stone. Sometimes the bride is running late,

sometimes its the rabbi. You have to adjust timelinesdepending on the situation, he said.

Two weeks before an event, Abadi of The Palisa-dium asks the client for menu confirmation and thenmeets with his chefs to discuss ordering the food. Ifthe event is on a Sunday evening, well get our meatsin the Tuesday before and begin our prep work byWednesday. Thursday and Friday were making foodfor the cocktail hour. The day of the event we cook themain course and make salads, he said.

THE BIG DAY

Once the big day arrives, things move into high gear.If the caterer is off-premises, he and his team mustload equipment, supplies, and the food into vans andtrucks for transport to the venue. When they arriveonsite, they must unload it all and set up a kitchen andstaging area. If the event is a buffet, the crew will alsoset up serving stations. If the food is not yet cooked,the kitchen staff cooks it onsite.

On-premises caterers dont have the hassle of set-ting up a temporary kitchen. Instead, they must see tothe details of readying the venue. And their chefs arebusy from early morning making hors doeuvres andcooking the main courseusually a selection of beef,

chicken, and fish. This despite not yet knowing theexact count for each choice.

A selection of entrees is very common. Being inthe business, weve come to know that 50 percent ofguests order the beef, 30 percent the fish, 20 percentthe chicken, and 3 to 5 percent request vegetarian.These numbers are pretty consistent, but we alwaysprepare 20 percent more of each so we are sure tonever run out, Friedman said.

For many, wait-staff service is the yardstick bywhich to measure a caterers mettle, and if serving themeal doesnt go wellif there are delays in the kitchenor the food comes out cold, for examplea caterersreputation will suffer. Whats a professional to do?

If the party is under 200 guests, prompt and effi-cient service is relatively easy, says Abadi, who con-tends that he can serve an entire dining room in lessthan 15 minutes. During the cocktail hour, the chef isbusy prepping and warming the mains. When its time

for the meal, and the waiters have taken the guestsorders, the maitre d stands in the kitchen and callsout, Table four: six chickens, three beefs, two fish, onevegetarian. The kitchen staff dishes out the orders andthe wait staff brings them out.

If the party is larger, well have the same system

going, but times two. One team dishes out tables 1-15,for example, and the other team tables 16-30. In all,Abadi says each table should take under a minute toserve.

Friedman agrees. We have it down to a science.Forty to fifty seconds per table, he said.

For Starkman, mounting a successful event isreally about being organized and properly trainingstaff. Its very important to be systematic to have allyour ducks in a row. Its also important that your staff isproperly trained so they know where theyre going andwhat theyre doing. These are the basics for any event,

he said.So, now you know: Its not magic that makes the

occasion, but rather a well-run occasion that makesmagic. The next time you attend an elegant affair, youmight remember that and thank the magician er,caterer.


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Creative ways to keep the secret before the party

MICHELEALPERIN

Surprise parties, in some sense,require human beings to dosomething that is entirely alien totheir nature keeping a secret.

But even when someone divulgesthe upcoming event to the celebrant,that doesnt necessarily have to be theend of the surprise.

When Arlene Opatut was planning a60th birthday party for her friend Lesley,all went smoothly at first guest listfrom Lesleys husband, evites sent, Les-leys chef friend volunteered to preparethe food. Then a friend ran into Lesleythe day after the invitations went outand asked her, Why is Arlene makingyou a surprise party in September whenyour birthday is in October?

Now Opatut had a problem. Les-ley knew there was going to be a party

sometime in September, but didntknow when. So Opatut, whose birthdaywas in early August, suggested a jointcelebration to get Lesley off the scent,then she finagled things so that Lesleypicked the date Opatut had in mind forher party.

After making all the arrangements,Opatut was left with another dilemma.It was going to be a nice cocktail party,but just a cocktail party; nothing inter-esting, she says.

Following Lesleys passion for

opera, Opatut decided to invite anopera flash mob, actually a few stu-dents from Westminster Choir College,to entertain; and she topped off thetheme with a cake decorated with a car-toon of an opera singer.

It all worked. Opatut describes thescene when Lesley came to her door,holding the cake she had made forOpatut. I think she realized one secondbefore opening the door, Am I stupid!She figured it out as I was opening thedoor, and she almost dropped the cake.

Sometimes the surprise is not theparty, but who shows up; and today thatcan mean almost anyone on the plan-et. When Rob Goldston planned a 60thbirthday party for his wife, Ruth, sheknew about the party. But what she didntknow was that two of the guests wouldcome in via video Ruths good friendfrom Ireland, and her son Jake, who wasdoing economics research in India.

The biggest conundrum when plan-ning a surprise party, of course, is get-

ting the victim to the right place at theright time.Abo ut 30 yea rs ag o, at age 19,

Mason Resnick planned a surprise 25thanniversary party for his parents. Heculled their phone books, stored the

rented tables and chairs next door, andassigned everyone a dish to bring. Buthis problem was how to get his parentsback home from the bat mitzvah partythey were attending (and whose hostswere in on the surprise) and also findingan excuse for Resnick to stay home.

His was easy. It was the first time inmy life that I faked an illness, he says,noting that when his parents left he waslying in his bed with his sneakers on,fully dressed.

But when the setup was done andthe food out, Resnick did not have agreat strategy for luring his parentsback home. But thats when his Bub-bie stepped in with a solution, Just tellthem I am having chest pains. Resnickwas quite reluctant, imagining his par-ents fury on their return, but in the end,

he says, his parents admitted that noth-ing less than Bubbie pretending she washaving a heart attack would have gottenthem back.

Shoshana Silberman of Montclairhad a similar experience before a sur-prise party she planned for her hus-band, Mel, when they were grad stu-dents at the University of Chicago. Butshe had to keep her husband from get-ting back home too soon, before setupwas completed and the guests arrived.

She and Mel were going to a child-

birth class at Michael Reese Hospital,but found the class canceled when theyarrived. Silberman was frantic, suggest-ing that they grab a bite, but Mel wasnthungry; and in fact he had plenty ofwork to do at home and had no interestin anything else.

Thats when she figured out how tostop Mel in his tracks. She said to him.Mel, Ive really been thinking about thisa lot if we do have a boy, Im really notsure if I want to have the baby circum-cised. And, as expected, Mel said, Letspull over the car and talk about it.

I made up anything I could thinkof spontaneously at the moment aboutwhy I didnt think I wanted to circum-cise a child, and on and on, looking atmy watch, she recalls, When I finally,finally, was running out of ideas, I sawthat the time was okay and said, Youknow, some of your ideas I can reallyrelate to, and I think I will reconsider myposition. He told her afterward that hethought her solution was ingenious.

In the end surprise is in the eyesof the beholder, and often a surprisingparty can make up for a failed surpriseor even the absence of one altogether.The best advice for planning is probablybe creative.


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Office partiesCelebrating the holidays at the workplace

LORI SILBERMAN BRAUNER

Office parties provide an oppor-tunity for people of all faiths tocelebrate the holidays with theircoworkers, as well as the chance

to interact beyond the confines of theircubicles.

Many area venues offer employeesthe chance to leave their offices and

have fun in a more relaxed environment,such as a hotel or entertainment center.The Teaneck Marriott at Glenpointe

is one such off-site venue for parties,including corporate events. It offers avariety of meeting spaces, including arestaurant and lounge, as well as a spaand 345 guest rooms, a full-servicekind of venue, said Mitchell Heymann,the Marriotts director of sales and mar-keting. You walk in and youre a guestin your own party.

Heymann said that the hotel can

accommodate parties from between 20to 500 people. Patrice Jungermann, thehotels catering sales manager, notedthat the Marriott will partner with youin helping to arrange local vendors,music, decorations, and favors; theGlenpointe itself provides centerpiec-es and linens. Just about every ethnic

background is covered in our kitchen,she said, and kosher food can be pro-vided with a few days notice; gluten-freeoptions are also available.

Parties can be held during lunch-time, on weeknights, or even as full-blown Saturday night affairs. And theydont even have to take place duringthe height of the season, with Decem-ber an extremely hectic month for all.Some companies choose to do theirholiday parties in January, Heymannsaid. The Marriott also offers optional

holiday touches such as Christmas trees(on wheels) and menorahs.

Englewoods Space, an entertain-ment venue housed in a former ware-house, offers holiday and corporate par-ties that feature catered food and drink,

a glow-in-the-dark bowling alley, night-club space, laser tag/paintball areas,and an arcade with more than 100 videogames. We are a nightclub with enter-tainment, said founder Elvira Grau.


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he history of the knish represents more thanjust the lineage of a fried, dumpling-like food.It demonstrates the often-central role of food in

communities and cultural legacies.Laura Silver knows that all too well. She has con-sumed knishes on three different continents, and herexhaustive research on the iconic potato treat hasresulted in her new book, Knish: In Search of the Jew-

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knish recipes of Mrs. Stahls bakery.As a young girl from the New York bor-

ough of Queens, Silver vividly remembersheading to Mrs. Stahls in the Brighton Beachsection of Brooklyn for knishes.

Mrs. Stahls was our go-to place, butthere were certainly knishes in other places,she said. When I grew up in Queens therewere many Jewish delis around. Mrs. Fanny

Stahl was born with the Yiddish name of Feige. Shewas an immigrant who supported her five childrenby doing many jobs, including cooking. She startedthe knish shop and ran it until her death. She was

very active in the Brooklyn chapter of Hadassah (thewomens Zionist organization) and she knitted sweat-ers for the people of Palestine before Israel was a state.She was an entrepreneur par excellence. She workedvery hard.

Silver is considered the worlds foremost expert onthe knish. But can she definitively say where the firstknish came from?

I dont think its possible to know exactly whomade the first knish, she said. It certainly happenedin a different time but it was before 1614, the firstrecorded history of the knish, which is in a poem in the

Polish language. It comes from a town called Krakow-iec, which is in modern-day Ukraine in what would bethe Pale of Settlement.

The knish undoubtedly has links to the Polishtown of Knyszyn, where Silvers own family originated,she said. But before setting out on her quest, she hadno idea that she might be related to direct descendantsof the knishs pioneers from that very town.

But before setting out on her quest, she had noidea that she might be related to direct descendants ofthe knishs pioneers from that very town.

I didnt realize I was on a quest until I was inPoland with my family and we learned that our great

aunt was from Knyszyn, she said. Thats what tipped

SEE KNISH PAGE 18

Laura Silver


17/28


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me off that I might be a direct descendant of the knish,which I am in fact. It was bashert meant to be.

According to David Sax, author of Save the Deli:

In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and theHeart of Jewish Delicatessen, Silvers knish book is alovingly researched volume that elevates the knisharguably the humblest of Jewish foodsinto a weightysymbol of history, identity, and family.

Knishes havent met anything this good for themsince the invention of mustard, Sax said, referring toSilvers book. The knish is ripe for the spotlight Laurahas shone upon it. Just look at the lineup for Black

Seed, the new Montreal bagel place in New York, andyoull see that the revived interest in Jewish soul food isonly growing. I bet well see some amazing knishes inthe years to come.

Arthur Schwartz, author of Arthur Schwartzs Jew-ish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited, said

that the knish has never been put to better use thanit is in Silvers book.Laura Silvers at-times poetic meditation on

knishes is not only a cultural history of this filled lumpof dough, as meticulously researched as any doctoralthesis, but also a Proustian personal memoir that hintsof James Joyce, no less, in the way Silver intones anduses the rhythms of Aramaic Jewish liturgy, Yiddish-keit, and Yiddish humor to tell her story, Schwartz

said.During her research, Silver discovered that the

knish has connections to sources as surprising asEleanor Roosevelt and rap music. One of her favoritestories in the book is about Gussie Schwebel, a formerknish maker on Houston Street in New York. Schwebel

wrote to Roosevelt to ask her to sample her knishes.They turned her away because there was toomuch press, Silver said. Mrs. Roosevelts secretarythought it was a public relations stunt. I say hats off toMrs. Schwebel, because she had the chutzpah to writeto Roosevelt. She wanted to help her adopted countryso she asked to cook knishes for the armed forces. Sheused what she had, a knish, a food, and she rampedit up. That was in the 1940s. Later on she was quotedagain in the Washington Post saying that knishes aregoing to bring about world peace and put an end tothe Cold War. She saw food as an instrument for politi-cal maneuvering. Good for her.

Where are Silvers favorite places to buy a knish?The best knish you can get is one you make your-

self, she said. Barring that, I like the one at Gott-liebs in [the Brooklyn neighborhood of] Williamsburgbecause they speak Yiddish behind the counter. I alsolike the ones at Pastrami Queen uptown [in Manhat-tan], and if you have a hankering walking down thestreet theres Gabilas. Knish Nosh also has some goodknish shops in Queens, and theres Yonah SchimmelsKnish Bakery on Houston Street.

Every culture does seem to have its wrapped pas-tries, and Silver calls them knishin cousins.

Food is never just about food, she said. It wasabout identity, otherness, sameness. I never thought ofthe knish as anything unusual. The more I talk about itthe more I realize everyone doesnt know what a knishis. Its a great moment for knish literacy.

Silver was recently hired to teach a course at theBrooklyn Greenery, Improve Your Knish IQ, to givepeople a chance to expand their knowledge of thefood.

The knish is a simple food and it is accessible,Silver said. It is one that people yearn for even whenthey dont need to eat simple food because it remindsthem of connections that may be difficult to maintain,

or obtain.Gabriel Sanders, director of public programs at

New Yorks Museum of the Jewish Heritage, said thatwhat King Arthur is to the knight, Laura Silver is to theknish.

Never before has the potato pocket had such adevoted champion, Sanders said.

JNS.org

KnishFROM PAGE 16

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So you want to throw a surprise party but youdont want to have to work at keeping it secret.

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How did they do it?First, there is the basic fact that to a one-year-old,

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Certainly that deserves a party.First, who do you invite?There are many ways to compile a guest list. Mir-

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larly if their friends also have young children. BecauseDaves family lives in Toronto, though, he and Miriamdecided to make the party family-centric. His parents,sister, and brother all came in for a long weekend, andthey were joined by Miriams relatives. (Us, that is.)The 20 of us filled the house comfortably, and Miriamand Dave didnt have to decide who to include, who toleave out, and how to accommodate other children.

Next, they decorated their house. They wentonline and bought festive, elegant streamers and a signspelling out Happy Birthday. Nava loves being held upto the streamers to play with them. They are strong

enough to withstand her tugging; theyre pretty, notgarish, and most likely they will remain up throughDaves birthday, two weeks after Navas.

Food came from a Bukharian restaurant in Bor-ough Park, where Dave lived when he was a rabbini-cal student in Hebrew Union College in Manhattan.Dave has many talents; among them is the ability tonegotiate almost anything from almost anyone. Therestaurant, Vostok, is a windowless room under theEl tracks. It has a disco ball hanging from its ceil-ing, it plays Russian music videos full of men with80s porn staches and women in brightly colored andastoundingly cut polyester. Its guests, who bring their

own industrial-sized bottles of vodka, include unself-conscious elderly women in sequined track suits andunself-conscious families whose members all trek outto the space under the disco ball to dance with eachother, teenage girls with their grandmothers, teenageboys with their baby cousins, all clearly having hugeunforced fun.

The food at Vostok is delicious (and of coursekosher), the servings are huge, and it is all dirt cheap.

Miriam and Dave live in Metuchen, which is notparticularly close to Borough Park. But Dave managedto convince Vostok to deliver there. They got enormousplatters of food, a carnivores delight; Bukharian beef

and lamb and chicken, rice and beans and beets andgreens. There also was a tray of demure pieces of tila-pia, a sweet offering to vegetarians that stayed almostentirely untouched.

SEE BIRTHDAYPAGE 22

Nava enjoys

her veryfirst piece

of chocolate

cake.


21/28

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a former Spring Valley resi-dent, says In addition to ourchildrens facility, we felt thatRockland needed a trendy up-to-date nightclub for family cel-ebrations such as bar mitzvahsand Sweet Sixteens. Out of thisnecessity we created L.E.D. Weclear the entire space to set upfor these types of celebrations.I am excited that our vision forthis concept has come to life.The facility for both Scream-in Parties and L.E.D. is reallyincredible.

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Soak up the hottest trendsMastering marinating

AMY PATUREL

Since ancient times, humans havebathed meat, poultry, and fish insome combination of acid, oil,and seasonings. Their reasons

were simple: tough, sinewy meat need-ed to be tenderized and preserved, andfragrant herbs and spices helped maskthe funky smell of aged meat.

In the old days, chickens ranaround in coops and cows roamed inopen pastures, so the meat on theseanimals was much tougher, explainsElizabeth Whitt, chef, culinary instruc-tor and industry consultant. Most cutsof meat today are already tender, so thepurpose of marinating has evolved frommasking and denaturing a cheap pieceof meat to imparting flavor.

While breaking down proteins withacid-based marinades like citrus, vin-egar, and wine once made sense, todaymost culinary experts scoff at the idea

that marinating makes proteins moretender. Instead, they claim, soakingalready tender proteins in acids like cit-rus, vinegar, and wine can make meatgummy, mealy, even tough.

Now marinating is taking on new

meaning as more and more chefs shyaway from soaking quality proteins inliquid for hours on end. The new fron-tier? Drawing out foods natural fla-vors using quick or flash marinades,

brines, pastes, dry rubs, even enzymes.

FLASH MARINADES

Flash marinades feature the same ingre-dients as the classics (acid, oil, and spic-

es), but require only a quick 10-minutedip in wine, vinegar, or citrus. The key,says Seattle chef, restaurateur and mas-

ter marinator Tom Douglas, is reservingsome of the marinade for drizzling ontop of the finished dish.

This simple trick helps allevi-ate the temptation to manipulate themeat to extend flavoring beyond thesurface. Rather than adulterating meatby pounding, gashing, or poking it fullholes, which allows juices to escapemore easily, chefs are slicing meat andother marinating items into thinnerpieces.

Jason W. Bond, chef and owner

of two restaurants called Bondir inthe Boston area, frequently uses thisapproach, creating thin vegetable rib-bons (things like rhubarb, celery, andcucumber), then placing them in thechamber vacuum with a light vinai-grette. For beef strip, he cleans the meatjust to the muscle, ties a thin fat capback on it, and trusses the entire beef.Then he vacuum compresses that.

With this approach you can uselighter marinades that flavor betterwithout masking the taste of the meat,

Bond says. You can either go light onthe acid, using less wine, citrus, or vin-egar than you might be inclined, or sim-ply add extra acid right before or aftercooking. Otherwise, you might cook themeat prematurely, says Bond.



25/28

,

BRINES

Meat is about 75 percent water, so theres little room formore liquid. Hence the reason standard marinades dontpenetrate meat more than 1/8 inch. Soaking proteins inmildly salty water (or brining) with herbs, spices, andgarlic actually moistens the interior, making it more ten-

der, without the drawbacks of acidic marinades.Not only are salt molecules smaller than water,

enabling them to get into the meat through open poresand sliced muscle fibers, but they also unravel someof the meats long, complex proteins resulting in moretender, juicier, and more flavorful meat. Still, some pro-teins lend themselves to brining better than others.

In cases where you have a tender, but lean pro-tein, like chicken or turkey breast, brining them resultsin a juicier piece of meat, especially for poultry, whichneeds to be cooked to a higher temperature thanbeef, says Whitt. In fact, salt penetrates more deeplyduring cooking.

RUBS AND PASTES

When Douglas began his career, he worked in kitchenswhere meat sat for hours in olive oil, garlic, and a littlebit of wine. Today, that approach has fallen out of favoras chefs explore how different blends of herbs, spices,and salt impact the integrity of meat.

In Seattle, Douglas is somewhat of a pioneer interms of using rubs, pastes, and spice blends in lieuof marinades. This technique allows him to retain thatnice, brown crusty sear so revered in the food world.His go-to rub: a little garlic, rosemary, and a table-

spoon of olive oil just enough to create a paste thatwill adhere to the meat. Its simple, fast and flavorful.

Unlike traditional marinades, which steam themeat and impede the surface from browning, rubs andpastes act like a quick cure, especially on fatty fish likeking salmon, black cod, and mackerel. And they can bea five-minute or a five-hour operation depending onyour taste objectives.

The rubs draw out some of the moisture, expand-ing the cell structure, not unlike using the freezer astexture driver and letting the water drip out of thefish, says Douglas. A bonus: rubs and pastes make fora cleaner kitchen. Theres no risk of spilling juices, its

far less time-consuming, and you get the same flavoreffect as you would with a marinade, says Whitt.

ENZYMATIC FRUITS

Fresh pineapple, papaya, kiwi, and ginger haveenzymes that act similar to acid in that they breakdown connective tissue in the meat and they workfast. Within 30-60 minutes, food is ready for the grill.Chefs in places like Hawaii, the Caribbean, or Asia who are spoiled by year-round access to exotic ingre-dients frequently use fruit to create tender, flavorfulmeat with minimal marinating time.

Unless youre very careful though, says ConnorButler, executive chef of Daylight Mind Coffee Com-pany in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii, you can turn meat intomush. Still, Butler uses fresh fruit marinades to softenthe texture of cuts like oxtail, cheeks, and shoulder.The trick, he says, is using pieces of meat with a lot ofconnective tissue.

In my more adventurous years, I used brome-lain powder from health food stores (bromelain isan enzyme in pineapple) when I wanted the effect ofbromelain without the pineapple flavor, says Butler. Ialso use kiwi in a lamb leg marinade. The flavor impactwas unnoticeable, but sometimes effect without taste

transfer is preferable.As with acidic marinades, soaking meats in enzy-

matic marinades too long results in mealy meat. Inessence, dont use too much, or too big or small a pieceof meat, for too long. Common kitchen sense plays a

lot into it, but a safe rule is never more than a 1/5 ofyour enzyme derivative in any recipe, and never mari-nade more than overnight, says Butler.

Also, mixi ng too many stron g flav ors like gar-lic, papaya and mango or being heavy-handed withthe marinade can create more of a chutney than a

light, flavorful marinade. A good counterpoint: Addingingredients like shaved daikon, ginger, or lemongrassto a non-acidic marinade.

Marinades offer a wealth of culinary opportuni-ties, but no matter how great your marinade, if youreusing a cut of meat thats already delicious and distinc-tive you dont need a marinade to add flavor.

Good meat can stand on its own merit with mini-mal seasoning, says Whitt. If, however, your goal is

to amp up the flavor in a traditional dish or create ajuicier bite with a bit of kick, then acid or enzymaticmarinades are simple, flavorful and fast.


A t t b


26/28

MarinadeFROM PAGE 24

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Jewish Standard, Jewish Community News, Rockland Jewish Standard S-9


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