everything you need to know about perennials!

7/27/2019 Everything You Need to Know About Perennials!

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Prenials!Evryhig Y Ned o Kw Abu

Prenials!A Comprehensive Guide by Grant Cleveland


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History of Perennial Gardens Page 2Recent Trends in Perennial Gardening Page 2Basic Principles of Perennial Gardening Page 3Getting Started Page 4Growing Perennials Page 6Care Through the Year Page 6Insects and Diseases Page 8

Expert Tips Page 8Theme Gardens Page 11The Lists Page 13The Plantscape Design Landscaping

Perennial Chart Page 14Common Name Index Page 19What the Names Mean Page 19

Perennial gardens have gained their recent popularity in mixed borders in island beds.

The mixed border display of perennial charm originated from the popborders of the late nineteenth and earlier twentieth centuries. These garevolved from the cottage gardens of the Old World. In these plantings ocommon people in Europe they displayed collages of their favorite flowersherbs gathered together in a haphazard, yet delightfully appealing plannow known as a mixed border.

Famous horticulturists wrote complimentary books and articles that highligand praised these humble flower beds. This elevated the charming folk athe common people to the grand elaborate informal perennial border schewhich came to surround the homes of the rich in England and in the reEurope. Once roses, shrubs, bulbs and trees were utilized in these borthey became known as mixed borders.

The first perennial plants were brought to the United states by settlers Europe. Later these were supplemented with specimen brought from toumissionaries, and finally, horticulturists.

Now that Americans have begun to appreciate a garden that faithfully reyear after year providing color, texture, and fragrance, the perennial bordreturning to the state of mass popularity from which it originated.

n general, perennial gardening enthusiasts aspire to weed less, use less chemicalsespecially when combatting insects that attack the garden, with the widespreadse of native plants. Also characteristic of perennial gardens today is the tendencyo include more layers of plant growth, and more diversity. The result of this is aush, abundant, free-flowing garden, one that is unlike the controlled regimentation

f the traditional English gardens.

All these aspects taken together compose the new informal gardens that arepringing up all over the United States today. These informal gardens have five

main characteristics:

1. There is a wider variety of different plants used in gardens. As well as theever-changing tapestry of perennials, the gardens include roses, annuals,and bulbs, anchored in by a few well-placed trees, shrubs or other structures.This creates a garden that is visually engaging throughout the course of the

year. The resulting effect is that as each plant comes into bloom, it is high-lighted by constant contrasting background that can be provided through theuse of shrubs or other structures such as walls.

2. The plants are seemingly placed at random, in a naturalizing manner.3. The larger garden include paths that meander but still lead to a hidden focal

point or a bench in the shade.4. Plants are used in odd numbers with 5 and 7 being the most popular.5. Some natural materials are used. This includes a stone wall, a large stone

acting as a focal point, etc..

he new trend toward the informal garden lends itself to developing the best seasonalnterest since they admit the largest number of varieties of plants, including native plantsfrom the region naturally) and incorporate natural materials into the overall designcheme. These gardens are also have more flowers as the border is not kept carefully

pruned back, but is allowed to become a free-flowing mass of color and texture.

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Throw, drop, or place your Seed Bombs anywhere you want to add a little coand splash. No crushing or stomping on the Bomb is necessary. Just water tBombs or wait for the rain to fly. Your Seed Bombs will sprout with vigor and begblooming in weeks with a variety of brightly colored flowers. The specially developclay and peat used in making the Seed Bombs traps moisture for the seeds when thneed it most and also protects the seeds from birds, animals, and other predators

his section will address the overall design of your perennial garden. This designould have been previously thought out and put on paper, or come about throughhe haphazard expansion and making room for specimen you had to have. Eitherre equally acceptable, providing you keep a few of the following points in mind.

here are many different schools of thought on design. The design scheme that willbe discussed will concentrate on the informal perennial or mixed border theme.

he Principles1. Provide a background for the perennial bed - this could be achieved through

the use of walls, fences, or late blooming perennials such as asters (possiblythe best perennial for this) or mums. Avoid shrubbery for this as it will takeover the perennial bed.

2. Emphasize and repeat. Incorporate drifts of the same type of plant throughoutthe perennial garden. This doesnt mean to duplicate the same five-foot designover a thirty-foot garden so it is repeated six times. It merely means to makesure at least one variety of plant is found throughout the border; all the othervarieties can be different. This promotes a feeling of continuity.

3. In general, the wider the border, the better. To maximize the visual appealof the garden, the border should be roughly 1/3 wider than the tallest plant in

the border.4. When planting your perennial garden, make sure that you keep foliage in

mind. A good variety of shades and textures of foliage in the garden isimportant in the overall design (perennials with excellent foliage will be listedlater in the booklet).

5. Arrange plants as if they are growing naturally throughout the garden bydifferent heights, colors, and varieties.

6. Bear in mind the blooming time when placing plants.

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Soil Preparationoil preparation is one of the single most important factors in the creation of auccessful perennial garden. Take your time and make sure the soil is rich andupplemented with organic material beforeplanting your garden and your perennials

will reward you with lush growth and abundant flowers. This may seem basic, butis essential to the success of your garden. Make the soil as rich and fertile as youan, then plant.

Admittedly, some perennials prefer soil that is poor, such as sea pinks, however, theast majority of perennials will thrive only in rich soils.

Different soil types require different additives. Humus and organic material can bedded to all soil types.

Clay: Lime is able to loosen clay soils. In addition to this, lime counter-acts theddition of manure, PH-wise. Manure, as well as peatmoss, has an acidic effect on

he soil, while lime has a basic effect on it. Therefore, whenever you add manurer peat moss, be sure to add a little lime to balance the PH level.

Sandalsocanhelpbreakupclaysoilandmakesitlessdense. Gypsumworksverywellinbreakingupclaysoils.Althoughitisalittlepricey,

the cost can be justified when the soil is almost complete clay. In these situations,we would recommend tilling gypsum in with the clay and then adding a footof topsoil and other organic matter, and then tilling that in.

Humus and compost improve clay soil by opening it up and making it more porous.eat moss is especially good for this because of its ability to correct mechanicalls of the soil by causing increases in bacterial action.

Sandy Soils: Humus and other organic material, such as peat moss and composthould also be add to sandy soils because they will give the soil more bulk. If theres one thing you learn reading this booklet, it should be that rich, fertile soil is vitalo growing perennials successfully. Take the time to improve your soil.

Advantages of Rich, Loose Soil for Perennials1. Will help drain away excess water that will kill perennials in the winter.2. Allows for easy, strong, root growth.3. When you wish to divide them, the process will be much easier as the roots

wont be cemented into clods and easily break.4. Easier weeding because you always get the roots.

ertilizersUnderstanding your fertilizer label and what the various components do for yourplants is very helpful when maintaining a perennial garden.

Nitrogen promotes leaf and stem growth. Nitrogen causes rapid growth and ach green color. Too much nitrogen causes weak stems and floppy leaves in

perennials.

Phosphorous promotes root growth, as well as flower and seed production. Phos-phorous cause flowering plants to bloom more. Phosphorous is the most importantomponent of a fertilizer for perennials. It can be organically obtained from bone

meal, which should be spread at a rate of 3 to 6 pounds per 100 square feet.

Potash or potassium helps plants to ward off disease, stabilizes growth andntensifies color. Potash also promotes root growth, general well-being and winterardiness. Potash can be organically obtained by spreading a thin layer of woodsh on the surface of the soil and then tilling it in.

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Internally, aloe has been showing promin treating AIDS. The virus has becomundetectable in some patients who useon a regular basis, due to its immune systestimulant properties. Taken orally, aloe aappears to work on heartburn, ar thritrheumatism, pain and asthma. Studhave shown that it has an effect on loweriblood sugar levels in diabetics. Aloe aappears to work when taken internally treat congestion, intestinal worms, indigestio

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Once you have improved your soil, it is better to underfertilize your perennials than to overfertilize them. The organic materianriched it with will supply a slow steady diet of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and other trace elements. Just fertilize them year, in the spring, when they are beginning that years growth.

he Most Important Gardening Toolsis completely unnecessary to stock your garage with every type of tool you cannd in your local garden shop. In fact, all you really need is five tools, six if youave clay. Thats it! you dont need a different tool for every job. However, whenou purchase these tools, emphasize quality. In other words, dont buy cheapools, they break and you will waste your valuable time and money replacing them.

The Pitchfork: I cannot tell you enough times to purchase a pitchfork when youre planning to do perennial gardening. Utilizing a pitchfork insures that you aresing the fastest, deepest method of tilling the soil under. It is also very useful for

breaking up the soil.

The Pickax: The pickax is especially useful when you are try to break up heavylay or rooty soils. You will find that it will easily rip through the poorest of soils,llowing you to add the appropriate materials. Once you have chopped the soil up

horoughly with your pickax and added the appropriate additives, such as humus,ou can use your pickax to till it all together.

The Shovel: This is an obvious tool if you plan to use it to plant large perennials or anything large in your yard.

The Pruners: Pruners are essential because you will use them to deadhead your perennial garden, cut flowers for display or tond later you will use them to cut your garden back in the fall. Once again, spend the extra money to purchase a good pair of pru

hat will stay sharp and cut easily. We recommend Corona Comfortgrip pruners.

The Garden Trowel: You will spend a lot of time with your garden trowel if you plan to be a perennial gardener. Once againecommend the Coronna Comfortgrip garden trowel. It is important to use a high-quality trowel so it wont break when youigging in clay soils and so you can use it to break up clods of dirt. A cheap trowel will bend and break and infuriate even the

patient of people.

The Hose: In addition to its obvious purpose of watering, the hose is very helpful when utilized in the making of perennial island nd pathways.

When making a path, lay the curve of the path with a garden hose and then use a string to lay at the other side of the path.

he easiest way to give a perennial bed a graceful edge is to lay out the shape you want with a garden hose. Before you utilizose in this manner, we would recommend that you stretch it out in the sun for a day to get all the curves and kinks from storagf it, and then use it to form your perennial beds or pathway while it is still warm and you will get the best curves.

hese six tools - the pitchfork, pickax, shove, pruners, trowel, and hose - are all that is required to easily maintain your perennial gardYou can add a wheelbarrow if you have a compost pile etc.

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Now that the preliminary details have been discussed, it is time to move on to the actual growing of your plants in your perennial garuccessfully raising your perennials will be the most rewarding aspect of the whole perennial endeavor.

Planting Perennialshere are two basic rules to keep in mind when planting perennials. If you follow these, your perennials should thrive.

1. Read the tag on the plant. These tags are not merely decoration. If the tag says the plant needs sun, dont plant it in the shThis seems obvious, but we have seen novice gardeners and landscapers alike ignore the tags and kill many perennials! Asgain more experience, you may want to experiment with divisions from your established perennials. However, the impothing to remember is to wait until you have grown perennials long enough to have plants to divide before you experiment.

2. Make sure the soil is loose and crumbly, and plant the new perennial at the same depth they were in the container. Plait too deep will drown and suffocate it. Planting a perennial too shallow will dry it out and kill it. The key idea is to planperennials at the same soil level at which it was growing before. Put the plant in the hole and firm the soil gently around itwater it until a small puddle forms around the plant.

he following list of suggestions of chores to do throughout the year is one containing only the essentials. We assume you do not nebe burdened down with a thousand meaningless tasks each season. We are assuming that you are not looking for a source of busyw

but that you want to enjoy your perennial garden year after year.

Springn the spring you have to initiate the spring cleanup. The spring cleanup consists of removing dead foliage from the perennd all of the mulch put on the previous fall, weeding, and loosening the soil to encourage new growth.

Removing Mulch: The mulch should be removed in two stages. First, once spring has arrived, but there is still danger of a hard emove mulch from around the crown of the plant. Approximately two weeks later, remove the rest of the mulch from the plant.

Removing Dead Foliage: Basically this means to remove any brown, yellow, or withered foliage from the plants. The earlier yohis, the better. You are less likely to disturb the plant if you remove the dead leaves before its new growth begins in force.

Weeding: Weed now and get it over with. The longer you wait, the worse it will be. And when you weed, do not just pull them

f the soil and then throw them in a pile in your garden thinking they will decompose, because they will just reroot themselves in oft, crumbly soil. Throw them in a bag. Try to weed after a rain-they will come out easier.

oosen the Soil: Using your pitchfork, lightly cultivate the soil. This means to just loosen up the top few inches of the soil. This hasbenefits: it will allow air and water to penetrate to the roots of the plant and cultivating will expose weeds.

Mulching: As for applying new mulch, hopefully you will not have to do that after the first few years. If the soil has been proprepared and the perennials were planted properly, they should spread to take over the entire area, leaving you no room to mulcou do mulch, stay away from nuggets and large bark as it will attract al kinds of slugs and other bugs. Grass clippings, compohredded newspaper covered by a thin layer of topsoil are the best types of mulch.

Summern the summer, the only thing things that have to be done are fertilizing in the early part of the summer (see the previous Fertilizer sectdeadheading, and diseased or dead foliage, staking, and watering and dividing.

Deadheading: Deadheading is removing spent flowers from the plant to prevent the formation of seed pods. You want to stoplant from forming these seed pods because if you let them form, it will weaken the plant, shorten the blooming time, and shortefe of the plant. In addition to helping your plants remain vigorous, deadheading will also encourage your perennials to rebloomeadhead, all you basically have to do is use your pruners and snip off all the faded and dead flowers. When it is possible, cuead flower stem to ground level, if not cut off the stem just below the top leaves.

Removing Dead or Diseased Foliage: Once again, this is merely a matter of common sense, if you see part of a plant that is yend covered with all kinds of nasty bugs, use your pruners and cut it off! Removing the dead and diseased foliage will make

perennial and your whole garden healthier. Keeping diseased foliage around the garden is bad for your plants because it will ttract more harmful insects.

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Staking: For a natural-looking, inexpensive - in fact free - way of staking yourperennials, use the upper branches of tall trees, such as elm or birch. Or you canse twiggy brush-wood. When the perennials start to send up shoots and the soils moist and easily penetrateable, encircle the group of plants that will need stakingwith the twigs and cut them so they face each other and form a roof over theplants. The foliage will grow through the branches and mask them while beingupported by them. This is the cheapest most natural-looking way of staking, just

make sure the branches are strong enough to support the weight of the plants whenhey grow.

Watering: A word about watering. Watering less but more thoroughly is better thenwatering constantly without soaking your plants completely. Water your perennialsnce or twice a week, but water them very deeply. If it has rained intermittentlynd you are unsure that your garden needs to be watered, put your finger an inchr two deep in the soil, if it is dry, chances are that it is in need of a good, longoaking. Try to water them as early as possible. If you water them during the daynd wet the leaves, they may burn in the sun. If you water them in the evening,

hey may not dry out and get a fungus.

Dividing: Divide your perennials in the early part of the summer, when they are aew inches high, before they have really begun to grow. If you miss this period,ivide them in the fall. If you divide them in the hot part of the summer, chancesre you will forget one of their three-a-day waterings and they will die. There are

wo basic ways to approach the division of your perennials. The first is to dig thentire clump out with your shovel and to cut the clump into pieces-each becoming new plant.

he second approach is to remove sections or babies growing alongside theplant while the mother plant remains intact.

When you are using the first approach, be careful to dig deep enough as to get allhe roots out. If the roots are not too intertwined, then attempt to pull them apart byand. If this does not work, use your pitchfork to try to separate them. If this stilloes not work, use your shovel to break the plant into pieces. Use your prunersnd cut off any part of the roots that are unhealthy. When you replant divisions,

emember to keep them very well watered. Any part of the plant that has ceasedo bloom and has become woody, discard, and plant one of the outer divisionsn its place.

alln the fall, the only things you have to do are cut your perennials back for the winternd mulch them.

Cutting Your Plants Down for the Year: Let your plants die down naturally. Afterhe first few frosts, cut off the dead stems. Leave about 4 inches of the stem to holdhe snow to provide additional insulation. It is not carved in stone that you have tohoroughly cut everything down; for example, you may want to leave some stalksor winter decoration. Just keep in mind that whatever you neglect to cut downfter the first few frosts, will have to be cut down.

Mulching: The purpose of mulching in the winter is twofold. First, it prevents thehawing and freezing of the ground around the perennials and the subsequenteaving of the perennials out of the ground it will cause. The second reason to mulch in the winter is to prevent a loss of moisturereeze damage to roots of tender plants. When mulching, it is essential to remember to not use anything that will smother or rot perennials. Pine branches, oak leaves, and hay are good mulches. Also evergreen boughs work very well. If you decide to useeaves, remove them as soon as possible in the spring or they will rot your perennials out as they will stay soggy and drown your plAnother important thing to keep in mind is to avoid mulching your perennial bed before the ground is frozen. One of the objectivmulching is to keep the ground frozen during mid-winter thaws. The fastest and easiest way to mulch your perennial is to wait untrst light snow and throw a few inches of hay or a few evergreen boughs over your perennial and forget about them until the sp

Do not use nuggets, chip, or bark of any kind when mulching.

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When you see diseases or damages leaves, the only treatment generally necessary is to remove them. Occasionally, through ntire plant may have some type of bug or fungus, and you may hesitate to cut the plant down to the ground. This section will go few insects and funguses that attack perennials. However, you should find that if you are careful about removing damaged foour perennials will reward you by causing you little consternation.

nsectsAphids: These are white soft-lice that cause a sticky residue to be left on the plants. These

nsects will cluster on one branch at a time until the whole plant is covered. To bring thesepests to their knees, simply spray with strong blasts of cold water from your hose and spraywith organic insecticideperennials at the same soil level at which it was growing before.ut the plant in the hole and firm the soil gently around it and water it until a small puddleorms around the plant.

apanese Beetles: These harmful insects will gladly devour your entire garden. We avoidsing traps when attempting to control them because they only seem to attract more ofhe beetles from around the neighborhood to the garden under siege. If you are inclinedo try to treat them organically, use a milky spore treatment or plant garlic bulbs amongour plants. If you arent, spray them thoroughly (with a Seven spray (available through

Ortho or through a cheap imitator at your local garden center).

Spider-Mites: Spider-mites will give the foliage a speckled yellow look and are only seenwith careful, close observation. The look like tiny black or white spiders, and tend to clusterear the veins on the underside of the leaves. Spray them with your organic insecticider with an insecticide (once again available through Ortho at your local garden centerr superstore).

A Word About Beneficial InsectsNot all insects are bad, there are many good insects, such as ladybugs, so do not go crazy and spray your garden with all kindigh-powered insecticide after the first glimpse of any insect.

ungushere are essentially two diseases you, as the perennial gardener, will have to deal with.

owdery mildew will cover your plants with a white film. It especially likes to destroy tall garden phlox. To combat this, try to our foliage dry when watering and never water in the evening. Another thing you can do is try to thin your plants to improve thirculation around them. You also would want to consider spraying the infected plants with a general-purpose fungicide (avaihrough Ortho at your local garden center or superstore).

oot Rot is caused from the plants being planted in soil that does not drain well and receiving more water than they can handle.eaves will wilt and drop for no apparent reason and the soil around it will be wet. Unfortunately, you have no option other thaestroy the plant and improve the soil drainage. You have to improve the soil since it is what caused the rot.

Generally if you have taken the previously outlined steps, you should have no problems with insects and fungus.

Organic InsecticideUsing organic insecticide is environmentally sound and inexpensive. In fact, you can easily make it yourself. There are two recboth are very simple to make.

First Recipe: Merely mix a bar of soap with water until it becomes gray and spray the plant, or spray your plants with old dishwhe is home-made insecticidal soap and is just as effective as the store-bought product.

Second Recipe: If your perennials are being attacked by more than a few insects and you want to make an insecticide with a more punch, use the following recipe. This is especially effective when combatting Japanese beetles. Using your blender, combinearlic clove, one onion, one tablespoon cayenne pepper and one quart water. Mix well and let it it soak for about one hour. dd about one tablespoon of of liquid soap and mix.

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Exprt Tips



Bigger Bloomshere are a few different tricks for encouraging your perennial to produce

bigger blooms.

he first technique applies to plants that grow in clusters. Quite a few perennialspread and become a very thick clump. To get bigger blooms, merely thinour perennials out. With fewer stalks to feed, your perennials will grow moreigorously and be able to produce bigger blooms. Tall garden phlox is anxample of a perennial that tends to cluster. In fact, if you thin this perennialou may find that your plants bloom clusters have increased two to three times

n size! Many of your perennials will respond in a similar fashion.Another way to increase the size of the blooms of your perennials is to pinchf the side buds close to the stem, while leaving the center bud intact. One

perennial that will respond excellently to this treatment is the peony. In fact,f you pinch off the side buds as they appear, leaving only the top bud, youmight very well get a blossom eight inches across! Many of your perennialswill respond in a similar fashion.

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Carnivorous plants are not only an unusual sight to see, but also to watch! These swamp and bog dwellers lure in, kill and diganimal organisms! After years and years of living in harsh and nutrient poor areas, carnivorous plants supplemented nutriethat make other plants thrive and prosper with insects and small animal organisms. These peculiar plants developed specializleaves over time that work to lure and then trap unsuspecting prey.

The Venus Fly Traps for instance, native to North Carolina, are probably the most well known of the carnivorous plants. They luretheir prey by nectar on its mouth-like leaves. These hinged leaves snap shut when trigger hairs are touched. Glands located in t

leaves release enzymes that digest the prey slowly killing anything that happened to take a breather on this unsuspicious predatoThe pitfall traps of Pitcher Plants are leaves folded into deep, slippery pools filled with digestive enzymes. Insects are lured in the plants nectar and if theyre not careful will fall to the bottom of the pitcher. If being trapped with no hope of escaping doeskill the insect, drowning in the water accumulated at the bottom of the pitcher will be this unfortunate insects ultimate demise.

Sundews are covered with tentacles that produce a sticky dew-like substance that glistens when touched by sunlight. Insects fithis glittery plant irresistible and become stuck the moment they land on its leaves. These shimmering tentacles then close, encasithe insect with digestive enzymes that break it down making for one delicious meal for any Sundew plant.

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or More Bloomshere are a few different ways to double the number of blooms that you will getrom your plants. The first way has already been discussed, and that is to deadhead.he more faded blooms you remove and the faster you remove them the greaterour chance is a getting a second blooming period out of your perennials. Another

way of getting a larger number of blooms from your perennials is to pinch themwhen they are young. Pinching consists of removing the top of each stalk of your

perennials including the first set of leaves, with your pruners. This will make yourplant bushier because it will have twice as many stalks and therefore will result inwice as many flowers on your perennial. Hardy garden aster and many otherperennials respond very well to this treatment.

Cutting and Drying Perennial Flowershe best time to cut your perennials for drying or simply setting around your homes in the late afternoon. The plants store of energy has been built up after severalours of daylight and the cut flowers are less likely to wilt since they will be at theirtrongest. When making the cut, the most important factor is not at which angle tout the flower, but how sharp the instrument used to cut the flower is. If you keepour pruners well-sharpened, the angle at whch you cut your flower is effectively

endered inconsequential.

When cutting flowers to be displayed fresh, strip the lower leaves when cut; thiswill conserve moisture. Put your flowers in warm water, as this will further reducehock. Another wise thing to do is to add sugar to the water you place your cutowers in. The sugar will stimulate bacteria that will clog the opening on the stem

where you cut so your plant will not lose any more energy. When you are not goingo see your flowers, put them in a cool place and they will last longer for you.

Drying your flowers is a relatively simple process. Right after youve cut them,merely them hang upside-down in a warm, dry place, out of sunlight.

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A theme garden represents an endeavor to attract a certain type of insect, provide aonstant source for a type of plant (fragerant, cutting etc.) or to acheive a certain look.

Hummingbird GardensWhen trying to entice hummingbirds to visit your perennial garden, plant perennialshat are red-hued. The folllowing is a list of perennials that we haved used successfullywhen trying to attract hummingbirds:

Aquilegia(Columbine) Lilium(Lily)

Ascepias(ButterflyWeed) Lupinus(Lupines) Campanula(tall) Monarda(BeeBalm) Delphinium(tall) Penstemon(tallbearded) Dianthus Phlox(tallgarden)

Butterfly Gardenshere is a little more to keep in mind other than color when attempting to attract

butterflies to your perennial garden.

utterflies are not very concerned with color; however, they do prefer many otherifferent conditions in their garden of choice. The key thing to remember is that

butterflies like their nectar in a sunny, sheltered, spot. Shelter obviously does notmean indoors, rather it means that the butterflies like to be be protected from strongummer and fall winds.

here are many small things you can do to woo butterflies into your perennialarden. One of these things is to lay flat stones around your garden in sheltered,unny spots. The butterflies very often will perch there and sun themselves until they

warm their bodies to a flight temperature of 80 F. Another thing you can do tottract butterflies is to provide them with wet spaces to drink from. Large groups of

male butterflies will sometimes congregate around these wet spaces. To create awet spot in your garden, sink a shallow saucer filled with pebbles into the groundnd fill with only enough water to just barely cover the pebbles.

Once you have taken the above steps to create a garden hospitable to butterflies,ou should be rewarded with their presence. However, we did include a list of

plants that butterflies seemed to be particularly fond of.

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Create a bountiful butterfly garden unique and fun as you are. Grow plawith rainbow colored foliage while t

profusion of sweet smelling blooms on trest attract butterflies and hummingbirdAll the included plants sprout in less thanweek and are quick to grow. The ButterGlamour Garden comes complete withbutterfly to call your garden home andButterfly Seed Bomb!

Throw, drop, or place your Seed Bomanywhere that you want to add a little coto and attract butterflies and hummingbirdButterfly & Bird Mixture Seed Bombs wsprout with vigor and begin blooming

weeks. The specially developed clay apeat used in making the Seed Bombs tramoisture for the seeds when they needmost and protects the seeds from birdanimals, and other predators.



ragerant GardensNo additional soil preparation is necessary to have a perennial garden that isspecially fragerant. Rather, it depends only on the plants you choose. You canasily discover fagerant plants by visiting your local garden center, but we will

provide you with a list of sure-winners.

Asperula(SweetWoodruff) Dianthus Lavender Lilium(Lily) Monarda(BeeBalm) Paeonia(Peony) Phlox(tallgarden)

Drying GardensOnce again, no additional site preparation is necessary to create a drying gardenf your own. Knowing the plants suitable for this require a little more detective

work. However, the list compiled here should give you a good head start.

Astilbe Delphinium Gypsophilia(BabysBreath) Lavender Luneria(MoneyPlant) Physalis(ChineseLantern) Rudeckia(Black-EyedSusan)

Mr Thm Gars

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You may have sites with different conditions that you are looking to place a perennialarden on. The following lists will assist you with this.

Perennials for Dry, Sunny Spots - Prairie Gardens Asclepias(ButterflyWeed) Liatris(BlazingStar,Gayfeather) Aster Penstemon Coriopsis Rudbeckia(Black-EyedSusan)

Echinacea(PurpleConeflower) Tradescantia(Spiderwort) Helianthus

Perennials for Moist, Sunny Spots - Meadow Gardens Aster Lobelia(greenleaved, Filipendula(Meadowsweet) blue&redflowervarieties) Iris(wild) Physostegia(ObediantPlant) Liatris(BlazingStar,Gayfeather)

Perennials for Shadeome of the most breath-taking gardens we have done were in the shade. Therere many beautiful plants that will thrive in the shade. This is a list of the plants we

ave been most succesful with.

Acanthus(BearsBreech) Lilium(Lily) Aegopodium(BishopsWeed) Liriope(Lilyturf) Aquilegia(Columbine) Lobelia(allperennialtypes) Aruncus(GoatsBeard) Mertensia(VirginiaBluebells) Asperula(SweetWoodruff) Monarda(BeeBalm) Astilbe Myosotis(Forget-Me-Not) Bergenia Phlox(creeping) Ceratostigma(Plumbago) Polemonium(JacobsLadder) Convallaria(LilyoftheValley) Polygonatum(SolomonsSeal) Coriopsis Primula(Primrose)

Dicentra(BleedingHeart) Pulmonaria(Lungwort) Digitalis(Foxglove) Sedum(lowcreeping) Hemerocallis(Daylily) Stachys(LambsEars) Heuchera(CoralBells) Tiarella(FoamFlower) Hosta(alltypes) Tradescantia(Spiderwort) Incarvillea(HardyGloxinia) Trillium Lamium Viola(biennial) Luneria(Silver-Dollar-Plant) DontForgetFerns! Ligularia

As one can see, shade gardening is not synonomous with limited gardening. Therere many perennials that will thrive in shade. For added color and interest in your

hade garden, include shade-loving shrubs, bulbs, and annuals.

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Item #: LC-0502

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his handy chart will provide you with all kinds of information about the plants that we have had consistant success with (weedy pre not included). In addition to finding all the useful information on the plants, you can use the chart to find perennials with diffeeigths, blooming times and colors. Since individual perennials generally have a blooming period between one and two monthsmportant to stagger the blooming times of them in order to have color from spring to fall. Varying the heights of your perennials aou to add interest and depth to your garden by allowing a better view of all the plants.

Grat Lacapig Prenia Chart

PlantImage BlooTimeLightBotanical and Common Names

Acanthus Common Name: Bears Breech

Asperula Common Name: Sweet Woodruff

Arabis Common Name: Rock Cress

Aconite Common Name: Monkshood

Achillea Common Name: YarrowAbout: Pastel varieties are the best.

Aegopodium Common Name: Snow-on-the-MountainAbout: Excellent groundcover, but can burn out with too much sun.

Asclepais Common Name: Butterfly WeedAbout: Beautiful, unique blooms, drought-tolerant.

AsterAbout: Profuse daisy-like blooms on strong fall blooming-plants.

AstilbeAbout: Provides showy bloms, but only for a short time, spreading varieties are effective,likes lots of water.

Ajuga Common Name: BungleweedAbout: Very colorful foliage, can be a mild narcotic when smoked.

AnemoneAbout: Excellent for fall color.

Aquilegia Common Name: ColumbineAbout: Provides great spring color, but has a tendency to die out easily.

Althaea Common Name: HollyhockAbout: Can be very usceptible to insects, Rose Mallow is far superior to the commonHollyhock, both are in the Althaea family.

Artemisia Common Name: Silver MoundAbout: Forms a breath-taking mound of contrasting silver foliage. The Silver Mound varietiesare far superior to the Wormwood varieties, dont be tricked.

Alchemilla Common Name: Ladys MantleAbout: Exceptional for cascading over walls and such.

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Sun

Shade,

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Sun

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

2 to 3Feet

LowCover

.5 Feet

3 Feet

2.5 to 3Feet

LowCover

2 Feet

2.5 to 4Feet

Cover,2 to 3Feet

LowCover

2 to 3Feet

1.5 to 2Feet

6 to 8Feet

1 Foot

1 Foot

White,Lilac, Rose

White

White

Blue,Violet

Yellow,White,Rose

White

Orange

Red, Pink,Lavender

Pink, Red,White,Salmon

Blue

Pink,Violet,White

Lavender,Yellow,White

White,Pink, Red,

Yellow

Foliage

Yellow-Green

LateSumm

Sprin

Sprin

LateSummto Fa

Summto Lat

Summ

Sprin

LateSumm

Fall

Summto Lat

Summ

Sprin

Fall

Sprin

Summ

Foliag

Summ

Height Color



PlantImage

BlooTime

Light

Cerastium Common Name: Snow-in-Summer

BergeniaAbout: Although it has a swampy look, it is excellent for variety in shade, and fall foliage color.

Ceratostigma Common Name: PlumbagoAbout: Effective spreading perennial for any location with attractive blue blooms.

Convallaria Common Name: Lily-of-the-ValleyAbout: Trustworthy spreader in the shade with early white blooms.

CoriopsisAbout: Contains flat and thread leaved varieties, both are great, a garden staple, but thethread leaf comes also in rose.

DelphiniumAbout: You can but multi-colored varieties that are very showy, the low, dwarf kind does notrequire staking.

Dianthus Common Name: Pinks, CarnationAbout: Carnations have bigger blooms but a shorter blooming time, biennial pinks bloom theentire summer and perennial pinks bloom only in the spring.

Chrysanthemum CN: Shasta Daisy, Hardy Garden MumAbout: Two distinct types of plant fall into this family, Shasta Daisies are hardy white plantsblooming in the mid-summer. Mums come in all colors and are the least hardy.

Campanula Common Name: BellflowerAbout: There are tall and short varieties, each have different types of blooms, the low kind(blue/white chips) have excellent blooms and a very long blooming period. A staple for asun or part shade garden.

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

LowCover

1 Foot

LowCover

LowCover

1 to 2Feet

1 to 4Feet

1 to 2Feet

2 Feet

1 to 3Feet

White

Red, Pink,White

Blue

White

Yellow,Rose

Blue, Pink,

White,Purple

Red, Pink,White

Yellow, Red,Pink, Purple,

White

Blue,White,Purple

EarlySumm

Summ

LateSummto Fa

Sprin

Summ

Summ

SpringSumm

LateSummto Fa

Summ

Botanical and Common Names Height Color

Geum

Dictamnus Common Name: Gas PlantAbout: Flowers exude a gas that can be ignited, usually this is better to try in the early evening.

Echinacea Common Name: Purple ConeflowerAbout: Very hardy late summer bloomers, a perennial staple.

Gaillardia Common Name: Blanket FlowerAbout: Drought resistant, proliferic bloomer.

GeraniumAbout: Multi-colored blooms, not to be confused with the common geranium.

Helianthemum Common Name: Sun RoseAbout: Evergreen mid to late summer blooming perennial, will rebloom if cut back.

Digitalis Common Name: FoxgloveAbout: Beautiful bell-shaped flowers that have a tendency to be short-lived.

Dicentra Common Name: Bleeding HeartAbout: Fringed and Luxuriant varieties bloom all summer, while the old-fashioned bloom onlyin the spring.

Gypsophilia Common Name: Babys BreathAbout: There are tall varieties in white and pink, and a pink creeper that forms a niceblooming mat in the sun throughout the summer.

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Sun

Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Part Shade,Sun

1 Foot

2.5 Feet

3 Feet

1 Foot

1 Foot

1 Foot

3 Feet

1 Foot

.5 to 3Feet

Orange,Pink

Pink,White

Pink,White

Pink,White

Purple-Pink

Red,Yellow

Pink,Blue

Pink, White,Yellow,Orange

Pink,Yellow

EarlySumm

Summ

LateSummto Fa

Summto Fa

Summ

LateSumm

EarlySumm

SpringSumm

EarlySumm



PlantImage

BlooTime

LightBotanical and Common Names Height Color

Heuchera Common Name: Coral Bells

Incarvillea Common Name: Hardy Gloxinia

HeliopsisAbout: A sturdy perennial prized for its late color.

Lathyrus Common Name: Sweet PeaAbout: Climbing free-blooming plants, will cover walls or ground. Cut back in the fall.

Limonium Common Name: Sea StaticeAbout: Dries very well, shorter plant with full late blooming habit.

Linum Common Name: FlaxAbout: Provides an airy whimsical feel to any garden. Blue flowers open and close before

your eyes all day.

Liriope Common Name: LilyturfAbout: Excellent for shade and part shade, Provides a muti-colored grassy foliage,very graceful.

Lobelia Common Name: Cardinal FlowerAbout: Varieties can have either reddish or green foliage. The reddish variety is taller andthinner, the green variety is more compact and has more prolfic blooms.

Lavandula Common Name: LavenderAbout: Very fragerant, Munsted is a trustworthy variety. Good for borders.

Lilium Common Name: LilyAbout: Beautiful fragerant flowers. Includes Tiger and Oriental lilies.

LigulariaAbout: Requires a lot of moisture, good for wet areas and around ponds or streams. Foliageis also attractive.

Iberis Common Name: CandytuftAbout: A sturdy perennial prized for its late color.

HostaAbout: Great for foliage variety in the shade, blooms are often unatractive and cut off. Thereare many different types of hosta.

LamiumAbout: Use only in places where nothing else will grow because it spreads very rapidly, greatfor naturalizing extremely shady areas.

Liatris CN: Blazing Star, GayfeatherAbout: Nice foliage (grassy), blooms open from large cone-like spikes good backgroundperennial.

IrisAbout: There are the large bearded varieties and smaller Japanese varieties. All are reliablebloomers, but they have a short blooming time and a tendency to spread.

HibiscusAbout: Beautiful in the sun, however, they require a lot of space, so use as an accent or visualpoint of interest.

Hemerocallis Common Name: DaylilyAbout: Hardy old-garden favorite with attractive foliage. Use sparingly as they have a veryshort blooming period and will spread to take over your garden. Stella d Oro is a dwarf

yellow variety that will bloom throughout the summer, we reccomend its use.

Shade,

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Sun

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

1.5 Feet

3 Feet

3.5 Feet

Climbing

1.5 Feet

1.5 to 2Feet

1 to 2Feet

2 to 3Feet

1.5 Feet

2 to 4Feet

4 to 6Feet

LowCover

1 to 3Feet

LowCover

3 to 4Feet

Low to 3Feet

4 to 6Feet

3 Feet

Red, Pink,

White,Rose

Pink,Rose

Red, Pink,White

Yellow

White,Rose

White,Lavender

Blue

Foliage

Blue,Red

Blue

AllColors

Orange,Yellow

White

Foliage

Pink

Pink,Purple,

White

Red, Pink, Blue,Lilac, Purple,Yellow, White

Orange,Yellow, Peach,

Red, Violet

EarlySumm

Sprin

Summto Fa

Summto Fa

LateSumm

Summ

Foliag

LateSummto Fa

Summ

Summ

LateSumm

Sprin

Foliag

Summ

LateSumm

Sprin

SummeFall

SpringSummeor Fa



PlantImage

BlooTime


Physalis Common Name: Chinese-Lantern

Luneria Common Name: Money PlantAbout: Beautiful when dried.

Mertensia Common Name: Virginai BluebellsAbout: Great for shade, however the entire plant dies down by mid-summer.

Penstemon Common Name: Beard TongueAbout: Showy tubular flowers.

Physotegia Common Name: Obedient PlantAbout: Stems are bendable and will remain in whatever postion you put them in.

Platycodon Common Name: Balloon FlowerAbout: A perennial staple.

PotentillaAbout: Can be a reliable bloomer, but keep pruned.

Pulmonaria Common Name: LungwortAbout: Very odd spotted furry foliage.

Primula Common Name: PrimroseAbout: Bright flowers, good for shade and borders. Blooms in spring and will rebloom in the fall.

Polygonatum Common Name: Solomons SealAbout: Excellent in the shade.

Myosotis Common Name: Forget-Me-NotAbout: Dainty flowers, a staple for shady gardens. Blooms with the spring bulbs.

Lupinus Common Name: LupinesAbout: Althugh the blooms are nothing short of magnificent, beware when purchasing theseplants, they are often finicky and short-lived.

Monarda Common Name: Bee BalmAbout: Fast-spreading, fragerant plants, unique abundant flowers. Cut back for moreattractive foliage and possible fall reblooming.

Papaver Common Name: PoppyAbout: Large attractive flowers. Be sure to cut back immediately after blooming as poppiesattract mites. Look for a breath-taking orange ever-blooming variety.

PhloxAbout: There are low cover varieties and tall garden varieties. Avoid the cover spring phlox,although they are originally attractive, they will become yellow and scraggly. The tall variety isbeautiful and is a plantscape perennial staple.

Oenothera Common Name: Evening PrimroseAbout: Clear yellow flowers without a trace of orange will bloom freely all summer if youcarefully deadhead the perennial. Blooms often in the evening.

Pyrethrum Common Name: Painted DaisyAbout: Similar to shasta daisy, but foliage is more fern-like, and blooms in many colors, keepdeadheaded to maximize blooming. Well-drained soil is a must.

Paeonia Common Name: PeonyAbout: Possibly the longest lived perennial. It will often live through generations of people.Has huge fragerant blooms.

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Shade,Part Shade

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Shade,Part Shade

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Sun

2 Feet

1 to 2Feet

1.5 to 2Feet

1.5 to 2Feet

3 Feet

2 Feet

1 Foot

1 Foot

.5 to1Foot

2 Feet

1 Foot

1.5 to 3Feet

3 Feet

2 to 3Feet

Low Coverto 2 Feet

1 to 1.5Feet

2 Feet

2 Feet

OrangeSeed Pods

Pink

Blue

Pink, Red,Blue

Pink,White

Pink, BlueWhite

Yellow,Rose

Blue,Pink

AllColors

White

Blue

Blue, Yellow,Pink, White

Red, Bi-Colored

Red, Pink,White

Red, Pink,White,Orange

Red, Pink,White,Blue

Yellow

Red, Pink,White

Red, Pink,White

Fall

Summ

Sprin

Summ

Fall

Summ

Summto Fa

Sprin

Sprinto Fa

Sprin

Sprin

EarlySumm

Summ

EarlSumm

Summ

Summ

Summ

EarlySumm



PlantImage

BlooTime


Rudbeckia Common Name: Black-Eyed SusanAbout: Will spread to cover a large area, so keep it in its area, lots of blooms.

Sempervivum Common Name: Hens n ChicksAbout: Can be tough to keep around, place them among rocks or in crevices. Unique.

Trollius Common Name: GlobeflowerAbout: Shiny foliage with waxy flowers.

TrilliumAbout: Beautiful woodland flower, goes dormant in summer.

Stachys Common Name: Lambs EarsAbout: Attractive wooly leaves, good for contrasting foliage.

Veronica Common Name: SpeedwellAbout: Has white or green foliage, blooms are spikey, Sunny Border Blue is great. A staple.

Tradescantia Common Name: SpiderwortAbout: Cut back before mid-summer and your plants will stay more compact.

Scabiosa Common Name: Pincushion FlowerAbout: Plants can be sparse, always plant in groups, excellent for cutting.

Salvia Common Name: Meadow SageAbout: Keep deadheaded and it will bloom all summer, good for drying and cutting.Drought tolerant.

Stokesia Common Name: Stokes AsterAbout: Large flowers (up to 4 inches across) on compact plants will bloom until frost.A garden staple.

SedumAbout: There is a low growing cover variety and a tall fall-blooming variety. Both have nicegreen succulant foliage.

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Part Shade,Sun

Shade,Part Shade,

Sun

2 Feet

LowCover

2 Feet

1 Foot

LowCover

1 to 2Feet

2 Feet

1 to 2Feet

1.5 to 2Feet

1 to 1.5Feet

Low Coverto 1 Foot

Yellow

Pink

Yellow

Maroon,White

Foliage

Blue, Pink,White

Blue

Blue, Pink,White

Blue

Blue

Red, PinkYellow

Summ

Summ

EarlySumm

Sprin

Foliag

Summ

Summ

Summto Fa

Summ

Summto Fa

Sprinor Fa

Act Wi Wa Plas!Act Wi Wa Plas!Grow your own giant flowering lilypads! These amazing lily pads cangrow in up to four feet of water, canspread to take up large amounts ofa shallow pond, and each pad can

grow as large as two feet wide. Lilypads also have the largest flower ofany plant in North America. This one-of-a-kind marvel has lived

the Earth for over 290 million yeaand has had the ability to comback to life over and over again hundreds of years! Place this seeingly dead ball of foliage in waand within hours it transforms intovibrant green evergreen!

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Item #: DP-0012

Growi 4

Wek!

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Common Name (Botanical)BabysBreath(Gypsophilia)BalloonFlower(Platycodon)BeardsTongue(Penstemon)BearsBeech (Acanthus)BeeBalm(Monarda)Bellflower(Campanula)

Black-EyedSusan(Rudbeckia)BlanketFlower(Gaillardia)BlazingStar(Liatris)BleedingHeart(Dicentra)Bungleweed (Ajuga)ButterflyWeed(Asclepias)Candytuft(Iberis)Carnation(Dianthus)ChineseLantern(Physalis)Columbine(Aquilegia)CoralBells(Heuchera)Daylily(Hemerocallis)

EveningPrimrose(Oenothera)Flax(Lilium)Forget-Me-Not(Myosotis)Foxglove(Digitalis)Globeflower(Trollius)Gloxinia(Incarvillea)HensnChicks(Sempervivum)Hollyhock(Althaea)

Common Name (Botanical)LadysMantle(Alchemilla)LambsEars(Stachys)Lily-of-the-Valley(Convallaria)Lilyturf(Liriope)Lungwort(Pulmonaria)MoneyPlant(Luneria)

Monkshood(Aconite)PaintedDaisy(Pyrethrum)PincushioFlower(Scabiosa)Plumbago(Ceratostigma)Poppy(Papaver)Primrose(Primula)PurpleConeflower(Echinacea)RockCress(Arabis)ShastaDaisy(Chysanthemum)SilverMound(Artemesia)Snow-Mountain(Aegopodium)Snow-in-Summer(Cerastium)

SolomonsSeal(Polygonatum)Spiderwort(Tradescantia)Statice(Limonium)SunRose(Hellianthum)SweetPea(Lathyrus)SweetWoodruff(Asperula)VirginiaBluebells(Mertensia)Yarrow(Achillea)

Cm Nam I Ba Gars!Ba Gars!



Item #: BV-0017

Many of the perennials have their roots in the Old World. In this time, it was commono associate the plants with different attributes. A few of these associations areprovided for your interest.

Carnation Womans Love Chrysanthemum Truth Daisy Sharing Thoughts Iris Passionate Love Lavender Distrust Lily-of-the-Valley Promise of Happiness Peony Anger Phlox United Souls Sweet Pea Departure

What h Nams Ma

Grow your own little piece of paradise wthe Bonsai Village. Plants included in tBonsai Village start sprouting in less than

week and will live for years! This excitidome terrarium contains five kinds of treand shrubs - Elm, Lilac, Pea Shrub, BeauBush, and Butterfly Bush - enough variethat the basic techniques of bonsai cabe learned. Complete your serene lanscape with thoughtfully-placed boulders,Buddha statue, bonsai decals, decoratiplant stakes, and natural gravel.

Item #: RG-0

Bonsai Rock GardenGrow an inspiring Wisteria bonsai in le

than a month with a handcrafted roplanter that is made in the USA. Wisteriaa beautiful, fast growing vine with a matulook even at a young age. The foliaand the fragrant colorful blueish purpblooms of the beloved Wisteria plant aunmistakable and sure to please!


20/20

Evryhig Y Ned o Kw Abu

Prenials!Evryhig Y Ned o Kw Abu

Prenials!

Al ct b Grat Clvelad

History of Perennial Gardens PagRecent Trends in Perennial Gardening PagBasic Principles of Perennial Gardening PagGetting Started PagGrowing Perennials PagCare Through the Year PagInsects and Diseases PagExpert Tips PagTheme Gardens PagThe Lists PagThe Plantscape Design Landscaping

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everything you need to know about perennials!

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