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EXCEPTIONAL WINTER EXPERIENCES 2013 SPONSORED BY THE MARRIOTT REWARDS® PREMIER CREDIT CARD FROM CHASE

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Page 1: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 22013 exceptional travel experiences 1

exceptional WINTER experiences 2013SPONSORED BY ThE MaRRiOTT REwaRDS® PREMiER CREDiT CaRD FROM ChaSE

Page 2: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 42013 exceptional travel experiences 3

2013

contents

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eatDrinKDosHop

2013 exceptional travel experiences 4

* Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on

03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance

transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the

current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www. MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District

of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels

to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

NO FOREIGN TRANSACTION FEES*

FREE NIGHTS START AT 7,500 POINTS

50,000 MARRIOTT REWARDS® BONUS POINTS after you spend $1,000 in three months after account opening

Apply now for the Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase and pay $0 introductory annual fee for the first year; thereafter $85.* MarriottPremier.com 1-888-623-STAY Offer Code 3TN

ABSORB THE CULTURE

NOT THE FOREIGN TRANSACTION FEES

JW Marriott® Khao Lak Resort & Spa, ThailandMarriott Rewards® Category 5

ExcEptional WintER ExpERiEncEs

This Winter, Your Own Kind of Wonderland

Determining how and where to spend your wintertime

months is a very personal question—just as personal

as, say, your style of skivvies or how you take your

coffee in the morning. For example, do you like going

somewhere warm, with a fancy umbrella drink in one

hand and soft Salvadorian sand sifting through your

fingers on the other? Or do you love the snow so much

that you’re already researching new après-ski hot

spots long before the mercury drops? Whether your

holiday travel means crossing the equator for some

heat or braving the shortest days of the year to see

the northern lights, we encourage you to stay true to

yourself and find the wintertime wonderland that suits

you best. Our AFAR.com members, local experts, and

travel ambassadors have shared a wealth of inspiration

to help you choose.

CO

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Page 3: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 6

a Bowl of soup for neruDa

eat “In the storm-tossed Chilean sea lives the

rosy conger, giant eel of snowy flesh,” the

poet Pablo Neruda wrote in Oda al Caldillo

de Congrio. “And in Chilean stewpots,

along the coast, was born the chowder,

pregnant and succulent, a boon to man.”

Neruda concludes his ode by saying that

one who eats eel soup may know the taste

of heaven.

Neruda (1904–1973) was a renowned

gourmand: He wrote tributes to lemons,

tomatoes, artichokes, and corn. But for

Neruda, it was caldillo de congrio that

captured the essence of his country. The

soup is made with fish broth, onions,

garlic, cream, tomatoes, potatoes, and the

most important ingredient: the congrio

rosado (or pink conger, a snaky fish with

speckled rosy skin and white flesh).

Neruda found the wedding of flavors from

land and sea divine.

Because Chile is a slender leg of land

that runs along the Pacific Ocean, most

communities have easy access to fresh

seafood. Neruda may well have bought

conger at the fish market in the city of

Valparaiso, where he owned a home

called La Sebastiana, now a museum.

Today, mornings at the market are

frenetic, as fishermen drag their boats

in on wheels and sell the fresh catch

right out of their vessels. When I visited,

Franco Cifuentes—the executive chef

at Vina Indomita, a winery in the nearby

Casablanca Valley—took me there to buy

conger. “I use the same flavors Neruda

mentioned in the poem,” said Cifuentes.

“The preparation may be different, but the

result is very similar.”

At the market, Cifuentes coached me

to look for an eel with clear eyes, a firm

body, and a bright pink hue behind the

gills. After inspecting several candidates,

we settled on one angler’s biggest catch

of the day. It was a congrio rosado,

the breed glorified in Neruda’s poem,

weighing close to 20 pounds.

Cifuentes treated the fish with the respect

it deserved, serving it in a caldillo de

congrio with a new twist. He added a

sprinkle of merkén, a seasoning used by

the indigenous Mapuche people. The

blend of smoked chili flakes, salt, cumin,

and coriander brought a spicy, smoky

dimension to the broth.

Neruda probably never heard of merkén;

most Chileans weren’t familiar with it

before it began appearing in specialty

food shops in the past decade or so.

But the poet’s love of food and country

suggests that he would have enjoyed

this extra kick to his caldillo dale congrio.

Maybe he would have revised his ode and

added a stanza for the spice. —chantal Martineau

WhERE to saMplE caldillo dE congRio

galindoIn addition to eel chowder, this

neighborhood café in Santiago serves

Chilean staples such as empanadas and

pastel de choclo.

Dardignac 098, Recoleta, Santiago,

56/2-777-0116, galindo.cl

oda pacíficoAs you enjoy your caldillo and one

of the signature pisco sours (try one

with merkén), take in the spectacular

views of the Valparaiso harbor from the

second story of a sleek wood-and-glass

restaurant.

Condor 35, Valparaiso,

56/32-223-8836, odapacifico.cl

Viña indómitaExecutive chef Franco Cifuentes puts

his spin on the traditional chowder at a

winery outside Valparaiso.

Km 64, Ruta 68, Valle de Casablanca,

56/32-215-3900, indomita.cl

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caldillo dE congRio (SERVES 4 to 6)

Adapted from the recipe of Franco Cifuentes,

executive chef at Vina Indómita.

ingredients1 pound fish head and bones (cracked)¼ cup white wine6 cups water1 tomato, coarsely chopped1 carrot, coarsely chopped1 onion, coarsely chopped2 tbsp fresh cilantro, finely chopped, plus 4 to 6 sprigs, whole20 to 30 medium shrimp, peeled3 tbsp olive oil1 cup flour ½ tsp sea salt¼ tsp pepper1½ pounds conger (skinned, cut into 4 to 6 fillets)3 medium potatoes, sliced ½ inch thick 2 cloves garlic, minced1 red pepper, julienned1 green pepper, julienned1 pinch merkén3 tbsp cream

Make it

1. In a heavy-duty pot over high heat, sear the

fish head and bones. 2. Add the wine to deglaze

the bottom of the pot. 3. Add the water and

bring to a boil. 4. Toss in the tomato, carrot,

onion, and half the chopped cilantro. 5. Reduce

heat and let simmer for at least 20 minutes, then

strain and set aside the broth, which may be

refrigerated for later use. 6. Lightly brush the

shrimp with olive oil, cook 2 to 3 minutes on a

heated grill, and set aside. 7. In a bowl, combine

the flour, salt, and pepper. Lightly dredge the

conger. 8. Heat half the remaining oil in a skillet

over high heat, and sear the fillets for a minute

or two on each side. Place in a lightly greased

baking dish. 9. In an oven preheated to 350°F,

cook the conger for 10 minutes or until it flakes

easily with a fork. 10. Remove from the oven

and set aside. 11. Bring the broth to a simmer in

a pot over medium heat and add the potatoes.

Cook for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are

fork tender. Remove them and set aside. 12. In

a saucepan, heat the rest of the oil and sauté

the garlic and peppers until soft. 13. Place one

fillet of conger and four shrimp in each bowl. 14.

Divvy up the vegetables, including the potatoes,

among the bowls and top with the rest of the

chopped cilantro and a tiny pinch of merkén.

15. Ladle the broth over the top and drizzle half

a tablespoon of cream onto each serving. 16.

Garnish with cilantro and a shrimp, and serve.

Page 4: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 82013 exceptional travel experiences 7

BOLiVia LiKE a LOCaLBy STEPHEN M. SMITHFor traditional Bolivian food, the residents around the San Miguel area of La Paz like El

Vagón del Sur. I started out with the tucumanas (empanadas with a spicy garlic sauce)

and surubi (an Amazon River fish), followed by the picante de pollo (chicken in a spicy

red sauce, served with potatoes and chuño). Outdoor seating is available when the

weather is warm, and most entrees go for around USD $10 each.

REad MoRE

a TaSTEFUL GESTURE, COLOMBiaBy ROB HODGESThe signature dish of Salento, Colombia, is trucha con patacones— trout with mashed,

fried plantains—and the most delicious version in town can be found at El Rincon de

Lucy. The cozy, family-run eatery serves huge, inexpensive set meals with the star

attractions accompanied by soup, rice, beans, cheese, eggs, arepas, fresh juice, and

desserts. The basic elements stay the same, but matron and chef Lucy routinely tweaks

the dishes, which keeps customers returning day after day.

REad MoRE

eat HiGHliGHts

Page 5: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 10

BEST NOODLES iN ViENTiaNEBy WANDERLUSTRESSThe broth is pork-based, rich but not oily.

you can choose cow piek (a thick rice

noodle) or pho (thin rice noodles) or mee

(yellow egg noodles), along with pork,

duck, or chicken. The thing that makes

it so delectable is the healthy topping of

fried shallots, which adds a sweet roasted

flavor. The soup is served with iced

chrysanthemum tea along with an array of

chilies and sauces that I never use because

the broth is really that good

just the way it is.

REad MoRE

SwEET iSTaNBUL TREaT By JULEE K. So why go to Istanbul in the late fall/early

winter? Well, airfares are lower than in

high season, you can pretty much get any

hotel room you want, there are no crowds

so no lines to stand in, and the price of

pretty much anything you might want

to buy as a souvenir is at rock bottom.

There’s also a sweet treat waiting for you

if you go at this time of year—freshly

roasted chestnuts!

REad MoRE

eat HiGHliGHts

BEaUTiFUL BRiTiSh BRUSChETTaBy DENISE REyNOLDS I was weary of finding great Italian food in London. Jamie Oliver’s Italian smacked me

with a breadstick and proved me a fool. His adorably rustic restaurant in Covent Garden

has just the right touch of hipness and all the right flavors and taste.

This “Beautiful Bruschetta For 2” packs a punch with peas, mint, bright asparagus,

smashed broad beans, and some unexpected smoky mozzarella and chili for an extra

kick in the pants. Mr. Oliver, I salute you.

REad MoRE

Page 6: Exceptional Winter Experiences

AC Santo Mauro, Autograph Collection®, Madrid, SpainMarriott Rewards Category 6

* Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on 03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www.MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

2 POINTS PER $1 SPENT AT RESTAURANTS, CAR RENTAL AGENCIES, AND ON AIRLINE TICKETS PURCHASED DIRECTLY WITH THE AIRLINE.

5 POINTS PER $1 SPENT AT MARRIOTT® LOCATIONS WORLDWIDE.

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Start with 50,000 Marriott Rewards® Bonus Points after you spend $1,000 in three months after account opening. Apply now for the Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase and pay $0 introductory annual fee for the first year; thereafter $85.*MarriottPremier.com 1-888-623-STAY Offer Code 3TH

SATISFY YOUR CRAVING FOR A GETAWAY

Page 7: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 14

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“I recommend you take a midnight poop,”

said the vest-wearing 20-something

bartender. The advice caught me off

guard. After all, I was in Karlovy Vary,

a historic Czech spa destination

where, since the 14th century, princes,

potentates, artists, and ordinary people

have been coming to restore their health.

This town of about 60,000, known as

Carlsbad in German, overflows with

curative waters that trickle from a dozen

different public fountains.

Six seconds into my perplexed stare, the

bartender opened the drink menu and ran

his finger down the page until it landed

on the words “Midnight Pupp.” I was in a

place called Jan Becher’s Bar, located in

the basement of the Grandhotel Pupp.

Ah—it was the pronunciation of that last

word. A Midnight Pupp, a cocktail. It all

made sense now.

The distinctive Pupp ingredient is

Becherovka, a local liqueur that has long

been considered medicinal. When I lived in

Prague in the 1990s, I acquired a taste for

Becherovka. In 2003, the French company

Pernod Ricard bought Becherovka and

expanded its global distribution. I began

to see the spirit stocked in liquor stores

and bars at home in New York City and

quickly started keeping a bottle of it in my

freezer at all times.

Made up of around 20 herbs and spices,

Becherovka has a tingly and bitter

flavor profile that can be summed up as

“essence of forest.” The recipe has been

a secret since its first concoction in the

early 19th century, and supposedly only

a handful of people on the planet know

exactly what goes into it. During a recent

visit to Prague I decided to make

the 90-minute journey west to meet

one of those people, Vladimir Darebnik,

director of operations at Becherovka.

Every Wednesday, either Darebnik or

master blender Bohuslav Pich, another

person in on the secret, spends two to

three hours in a sealed room, weighing

and hand mixing all the herbs and spices

for a new batch.

Within minutes of meeting Darebnik in the

Jan Becher Museum (which housed the

original commercial Becherovka distillery

before a shiny new one was built in 2010),

I called out names of ingredients to see if

any would stick:

Ginger?

Darebnik laughed and shook his head

from side to side.

Clove?

He bit down on his lower lip and

looked away. Was I onto something?

Cinnamon?

“OK,” he said. “You got one, but that’s

all you’re going to get.”

I switched gears, asking about the alleged

health benefits of Becherovka. Darebnik,

though, was equally uncomfortable

with this line of questioning. “Because

Becherovka was created by a pharmacist

in a spa town, it has an obvious

connection

to medicine,” he said. “But that’s not

something we want to promote.”

The year of creation was 1807. Local

pharmacist Josef Becher and physician

Christian Frobrig, who accompanied

Count Maximilian von Plettenberg on a

visit to Karlovy Vary, discovered they

shared a passion for mixing herbs,

aromatic oils, and alcohol (really, who

doesn’t?). Legend has it that after

experimentation in Becher’s lab, Frobrig

left Becher with a parting gift: the recipe.

Two years later, Becher was selling

English Bitter, later renamed Becherovka,

in his pharmacy.

Almost any Czech (other than Darebnik)

will tell you ways that Becherovka is

somehow good for you: It eases colds;

it loosens arthritic joints; it relieves

asthma. And Roman, my former ESL

student in Prague, once told me it works

as a laxative. Which brings us back to

Jan Becher’s Bar, where I’d planted

myself after the distillery visit. As soon

as I finished the better-than-it-sounded

Midnight Pupp, the bartender poured me

a glass of Becherovka straight up.

As in many countries, the Czech

expression

for “cheers,” na zdravi, doubles as

“to health.” As I raised a glass of the elixir

here, it never seemed more appropriate.

— david Farley

WhERE to dRinK BEchERoVKa in KaRloVY VaRY

Jan Becher MuseumTake a tour of the birthplace of

Becherovka, where the liqueur was

distilled from 1867 until 2010, then sample

the herbal drink.

T.G. Masaryka 282/57, 420/359-578-142,

becherovka.cz

Jan Becher’s BarThe basement of the historic and

stately Grandhotel Pupp is dedicated

to Becherovka. The extensive menu of

cocktails includes a dozen or so made

with Becherovka, some of which, including

the Midnight Pupp, are signature creations

of the bar.

Grandhotel Pupp, Mirové náměsti 2,

420/353-109-111, pupp.cz

FoopaaThis chic cocktail bar attracts Karlovy

Vary’s bold and beautiful residents.

There are several Becherovka cocktails

on the menu, including the classic Beton

(Becherovka and tonic).

Jaltská 7, 420/722-658-334,

www.foopaa.cz

Midnight pupp(MAKES 1 COCKTAIL)

Based on the recipe

from Jan Becher’s Bar

ingredients¼ ounce Becherovka¼ ounce Amaretto¼ ounce apricot brandy5 ounces orange juiceGrenadine

Make it

1. Pour the Becherovka, Amaretto, apricot

brandy, and orange juice into a cocktail shaker

with several ice cubes.

2. Shake well. 3. Strain into

a tall glass, add a dash of grenadine, and serve.

czecH, please

DrinK

23

23

23

Page 8: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 15

DOUBLE haPPiNESS iN MELBOURNE By NICOLE BLAESS-SMITHComing in off the streets of a typical windy

and wet Melbourne winter day, it was a

welcome relief to be able to relax next to

the fully stocked fire. My gaze flickered

over the menu and names like “Mr. Fu,”

“Communist Manifesto,” and “Dixie

Mission” leapt out at me—this wasn’t a

bar for those without a little sense of

humor. Adorned with Chinese lucky cats,

Chairman Mao figurines, and a dragon

flying overhead, the bar is a cozy retreat

from the city streets.

REad MoRE

DrinK HiGHliGHts

ThE BaRN iN BERLiNBy LINDSEy TRAMUTA Perhaps Berlin’s greatest gourmet coffee shop, The Barn has faced a wave of

controversy surrounding their second location, which opened in the Prenzlauer Berg

neighborhood last September. At this larger space, which is meant to serve more as a

tasting lab and roasting home than an extension of their intimate first venture, dogs,

laptops, and strollers, among other things, are not welcome. you can also forget about

sugar or anything other than whole milk for your coffee.

REad MoRE

COZY CaFE iN UTREChTBy KRISTIN ZIBELL Warm or cold in the Netherlands, Utrecht’s

Cafe Orloff is cozy and breezy at the

same time. In warmer weather, sit outside

along canals and cobblestone streets

with friends to enjoy a beer and

bitterballen combo. When temperatures

dip, sit inside along velvet-cushioned seats

and sip coffee while watching gloved and

scarved bikers pedal by.

REad MoRE

Page 9: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 182013 exceptional travel experiences 17

GUaRaNTEED GOOD COFFEE, aDELaiDEBy NICOLE BLAESS-SMITHChain stores have a reputation for bad coffee, really bad coffee, but things change when

you visit Adelaide, South Australia. If you’re looking for a coffee that is guaranteed to

satisfy your palate, my pick is to head to your nearest Cibo Espresso, or “Cibo” as

the locals know it. With branches all over the city—Rundle Mall, Rundle St East, Hutt St,

Melbourne St, and Pirie St, Cibo does what many other coffee chains fail to do—produce

good quality.

REad MoRE

COCONUT ON iPaNEMa BEaChBy ASHLEy CASTLE All year round, Rio is hot: the sand, the intricately tiled walkways, and the people.

Luckily, ice-cold, fresh coconuts abound, and these little beach stands that line Ipanema and Copacabana

are the ideal place to enjoy a fresh coco or a caipirinha any time of the day. There are two different types

of stands: the ones that open the coco with a machine, and the more authentic stands where the coconut

“barista” chops off the top with a machete.

REad MoRE

DrinK HiGHliGHts

Page 10: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 20

Do

“The northern lights were so much more

than I expected,” says Jennifer Farrell,

from North Ridgeville, Ohio, who saw

the lights for the first time about two

years ago. Farrell traveled to Swedish

Lapland—a province in the far northwest

of the country that’s known for its

indigenous Sami culture and snowy

sweeps of forests, mountains, and

plateaus—with tour operator Discover

the World. From December to March,

the company offers a four-day Northern

Lights trip that begins in Lapland’s Abisko

National Park. Here, the lights, also called

the aurora borealis, are especially likely to

appear due to the park’s clean air and lack

of clouds. The lights may illuminate the

sky in arcs, patches, or rippling sheets of

green, red, violet, white, or blue, and some

observers say they can even hear them

swish and crackle.

niGHt liGHtsOn the first evening of the trip, travelers

dine on venison and arctic char at the

Abisko Mountain Lodge, then bundle up in

snowsuits for a bracing chairlift ride to the

Aurora Sky Station. “The lights

started out as a greenish fog as we walked

up to the chairlift, and I was worried I’d

be disappointed,” Farrell says. “Then,

as we ascended into the cold, cold air and

wind, the lights shifted. They

were spectacular.”

At the station, visitors can take in the view

from an observation tower and explore

a science exhibit on the aurora, which is

created when solar wind particles collide

with Earth’s upper atmosphere. “I stayed

outside as long as I could, slipped into the

station to get warm, then went back out

to admire the lights,”

Farrell says. “It was surprising how they

slowly changed and how downright huge

they were. They were definitely worth

the trip.”

After leaving Abisko, travelers spend two

nights at the Icehotel (pictured). Rebuilt

every winter from giant blocks of ice, the

hotel has beds made of snow covered

with reindeer pelts. Ice sculptures serve as

decorations. (Warmer accommodations

are also available.) The hotel runs nightly

trips by snowmobile, bus, and horseback

to the best aurora-viewing spots. If guests

are lucky, the lights might simply appear

above their room in a ghostly

green swirl.

—Jennica peterson

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Page 11: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 222013 exceptional travel experiences 21

ThE BLUEBiRD CaFE, NaShViLLEBy APRIL KILCREASEAt the 100-seat Bluebird Cafe, hear aspiring songwriters as well as chart-topping

geniuses perform their original works. Featured on the TV series Nashville, the venue first

gained acclaim as a testing ground for country singer/songwriters, including Taylor

Swift, Faith Hill, and Garth Brooks. The legendary listening room has a strict no-talking

policy, so keep your reviews to yourself until after the set.

REad MoRE

aRGENTiNa GLaCiER hiKEBy EVE TUROWRunning along the Chile-Argentina border, Perito Moreno is one of three Patagonian

glaciers that is not retreating. It covers almost 100 square miles! I still remember the

moment, out of the bus window, that Perito Moreno first came into view. The enormity

of it blew me away. The following day I had the chance to actually walk on the glacier.

Clamping on my crampons, I recall the flurry of butterflies in my stomach, reaching up to

my throat.

REad MoRE

Do HiGHliGHts

Page 12: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 24

YOGa ON ThE EQUaTORBy SAKHI VyAS My three best friends and I recently

started practicing yoga. We discovered

it independently—Ellen in Alaska, Anna

in Michigan, Katie in Ecuador, and me in

New york. While visiting Ecuador this

past June for Katie’s wedding, we came

up with the brilliant plan to practice yoga

together on the Equator! The day before

the wedding, we headed outside the city

to the Mitad del Mundo site and found

“balance” at the center of the world

REad MoRE

Do HiGHliGHts

TiME OUT FOR TOTS, MEXiCOBy JULIE SCHWIETERT COLLAZOGlobo Museo del Niño is Guadalajara’s

children’s museum, with seasonally-themed

exhibits changing quarterly.

Highly interactive, it encourages learning

through play and hands-on activities. If

your timing’s right, your child might also

be able to participate in a docent-led

workshop or enjoy music and dancing

during a live concert.

REad MoRE

wiNTER aT ThE waVEBy ANDI FISHER The wave is a gorgeous rock formation near the Arizona and Utah border. It’s part of

the Coyote Buttes, in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Don’t rush off there

expecting to just show up and visit, because this area is tightly controlled by the Bureau

of Land Management, and only 20 people are allowed in on a daily basis. you can apply

for permits online or participate in the daily lottery for a day pass to see these magnificent

rock formations.

REad MoRE

Page 13: Exceptional Winter Experiences

2013 exceptional travel experiences 26

sHop

Residents of Ireland’s Aran Islands, a trio

of islets at the mouth of Galway Bay,

know a thing or two about braving the

elements. For centuries, the farmers and

fishermen who live there have dealt with

buffeting winds and driving rains that

surge across the Atlantic. Their principal

means of defense? A “fisherman’s,” or

Aran, sweater. Producing the thick woolen

sweater is a time-intensive craft, since

authentic Arans are knit entirely by hand.

“A proper Aran might have 100,000

stitches,” says Mary Conneely, of Cottage

Handcrafts in County Galway, “and if you

care for it, it

will last a lifetime.”

irelanD: sHear warmtH Lore has it that each Aran clan developed

its own distinctive stitching for sweaters,

with patterns that included ancient Celtic

symbols, cables (evocative of seamen’s

ropes), diamonds (farmland), or zigzags

(the island cliffs). These patterns have

been passed down through generations

and remain powerful symbols of a family’s

heritage. As a sad aside, the stitches are

also believed to have helped identify

bodies of fishermen who washed ashore

after accidents at sea.

Today, visitors to the islands clamor

for genuine Aran knits. As with many

traditional crafts, though, machine-made

varieties have flooded the market in AF

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recent years. Ask for handmade sweaters

at local crafts shops, and be ready to pay

a little more for the genuine article.

—Bob gulla

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2013 exceptional travel experiences 27

sHop HiGHliGHtsNaRGiLE iN iSTaNBULBy LEEANN MURPHyThe allure of smoking narghile, also known

as hookah, shisha, and water pipe, is

insurmountable in the Middle East. In

Istanbul, the most authentic place to try

it is the Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi. The

300-year-old Medrese has evolved from a

religious school and dervish lodge during

Ottoman times to bazaar stores to

the current oasis for locals and tourists

wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of

the Grand Bazaar District. Here, no one is

in a rush.

REad MoRE

ThE MOROCCaN SNUGGiE By ANGIE ORTH Ah, the jalaba—one of the best souvenirs

you can bring home from Morocco.

A jalaba (djellaba/jellaba) is a traditional

Berber robe with long sleeves & a pointy

hood worn in North Africa. In the Atlas

Mountains, the color of the jalaba indicates

a person’s relationship status. It’s like

Facebook feed for your wardrobe. The

jalaba is long, roomy, and warm, so

you can eat couscous until you feel like

exploding.

REad MoRE

COULD DYE iN PERUBy JOAN WHARTONWhile visiting Peru last year, my husband and I were lucky enough to be in Pisac for

the weekly farmers’ market held every Sunday. During the market, local Peruvians

meet to buy and barter produce, bread, and other supplies they need for the week.

The market also caters to tourists, offering handmade crafts, food, and drinks

that are fun to try. I was struck by the variety of products for sale, probably the most

surprising of which was this powdered dye.

REad MoRE

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2013 exceptional travel experiences 302013 exceptional travel experiences 29

sHop HiGHliGHts

ChRiSTMaS MaRKETS iN GERMaNYBy SHARON INThe markets take place usually in the center of the town, and you’ll find all manner

of stalls selling a wide array of crafts and tasty regional delicacies, such as sweets, mulled

wine (Glühwein), and other delights. When there’s snow, the atmosphere is absolutely

magical. Almost every city, town, and village in Germany has its own Christmas market,

and deciding on which one to attend is not easy, as each of them is unique and reflects

local & regional culture.

REad MoRE

BEST MaRKETS iN ECUaDORBy KAITLyN BARRETTEveryone who visits Ecuador knows about Otavalo market. The weavings! The sweaters!

The scenic vendors! Saquisili has all of those and a heaping dose of local people

buying local things and going about their local business. There’s street food

(grilled chicken feet anyone?), a market just for shoes, a live animal market, and more

people and commodities than you’ll have time to see in a given day.

REad MoRE

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2013 exceptional travel experiences 322013 exceptional travel experiences 31

exceptional WINTER experiences 2013SPONSORED BY ThE MaRRiOTT REwaRDS® PREMiER CREDiT CaRD FROM ChaSE