excerpt from artisan cheese making at home by mary karlin

8/4/2019 Excerpt from Artisan Cheese Making at Home by Mary Karlin

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artisan cheese mak ing at home58

1 gallon pasteurized goats milk

1/2teaspoon C20G powdered mesophilic starter

culture

1/2teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Read through the recipe and review any terms and tech-niques you arent familiar with (see chapter 1). Assemble

your equipment, supplies, and ingredients, including a dairy

or kitchen thermometer; clean and sterilize your equipmentas needed and lay it out on clean kitchen towels.

2. In a nonreactive, heavy 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk

over low heat to 86F. Tis should take 18 to 20 minutes.urn off the heat.

3. When the milk is at temperature, sprink le the starter

over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Whisk the

starter into the milk to incorporate, using an up-and-downmotion for 20 strokes. Cover and, maintaining the tem-

perature between 72F and 78F, allow the milk to ripen for

12 hours. (Refer to page 17 for tips on maintaining milk orcurds at a steady temperature over a period of time.)

4. Te curds are ready when they have formed one large

mass in the pot with the consistency of thick yogurt, sur-rounded by clear whey. Place a nonreactive strainer over

a nonreactive bowl or bucket large enough to capture the

whey. Line it with a single layer of clean, damp butter muslinand gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes,

then gently toss the curds with the salt. At this point you

can cover the curds with the tails of the muslin and leave todrain over the bowl, or you can spoon the curds into 2 chvre

molds set on a draining rack set over a tray. Let drain at room

temperature for 6 hours for creamy cheese, or 12 hours if youwish to shape the cheese. If you are using the molds, ip the

cheeses once during the draining process.

5. Remove the cheese from the cheesecloth or molds and

place in a covered container. Use right away, or store refrig-

erated for up to 1 week.

BASIC CHVRE

MAKES1 poundMILKPasteurized goats milk

START TO FINISH

18 to 24 hours: 30 minutes to make the cheese;12 hours to ripen; 6 to 12 hours to drain

Chvre is the common name for spreadable goat cheese. This fresh cheese is easy to make and, in its log shape, it is the

most recognizable goat cheese in the United States. It often has dried herbs or other flavorful additives blended into the

cheese or used to coat the log. This version uses a premixed blend of culture and rennet from New England Cheesemaking

Supply designed specifically for making chvre. This is the simplest method, perfect for any novice cheese maker.


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beginning cheese making | fresh cultur e-ripened cheeses 55

1 gallon pasteurized whole cows milk

3/8teaspoon Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter

culture

1/4teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in 1/4cup cool

nonchlorinated water (omit if using raw milk)

1/4teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in 1/4cup cool

nonchlorinated water

1 teaspoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal

brand) or cheese salt

1 to 11/2cups crme frache, homemade (page 44) or

store-bought

1. Read through the recipe and review any terms and tech-niques you arent amiliar with (see chapter 1). Assemble

your equipment, supplies, and ingredients, including a dairyor kitchen thermometer; clean and sterilize your equipment

as needed and lay it out on clean kitchen towels.

2. Assemble a water bath using a 6-quart stockpot set

inside a larger pot. Pour water into the larger pot to come

two-thirds o the way up the side o the smaller pot. Removethe smaller pot and place the pot o water over low heat.

When the water reaches 80F, put the smaller pot back

in the water to warm slightly, then pour the milk into thesmaller pot. Cover the pot and slowly warm the milk to

70F over the course o about 15 minutes, lowering the heat,

adding cool water to the water bath, or removing rom theheat i the temperature is rising too quickly.

3. When the milk is at temperature, sprinkle the starterover the milk and let it rehydrate or 5 minutes. Whisk the

starter into the milk to incorporate, using an up-and-down

motion or 20 strokes. Add the diluted calcium chloride andincorporate in the same way, and then the diluted rennet.

Cover, remove rom the water bath, and let sit at room tem-

perature or 5 to 6 hours. Te milk protein will coagulate

into solid curds, and the liquid whey will be almost clearand light green in color.

4. Check the curds or a clean break (see page 18), using

a sanitized long-blade curd cutting knie or 10-inch cake

decorating spatula. I the cut edge is clean and theres someaccumulation o light-colored whey in the cut area, the

curds are ready. I the cut edge is sof and the curds are

mushy, the curds are not ready; allow them to sit longer

beore testing again. When ready, cut the curds into -inchpieces (see page 18) and gently stir using a rubber spatula or

5 minutes to rm up the curds slightly.

CRME FRACHE COTTAGE CHEESE

MAKES1 poundsMILKSPasteurized whole, reduced at (2 percent), or low-at (1 percent) cows mil k, cultured crme rache

ALTERNATIVE MILKSRaw cows milk; pasteurized or raw goats milkSTART TO FINISH7 to 8 hours: 1 hours to make the cheese; 5 to 6 hours to ripen; 15 minutes to drain

Cottage cheese has been produced in Europe for many years using a range of milks. Traditionally, this fresh cheese is

made by natural lactic acid coagulation rather than with rennet. Because this recipe is made with pasteurized milk, small

amounts of mesophilic culture and rennet are used to enhance bacterial development and aid coagulation. Many of us

know cottage cheese as the mass-produced variety, which has little flavor. This rich cottage cheese is anything but flavor-

less, made with whole cows milk with cultured crme frache folded in after the curds are set. Commercial crme frache

can be used successfully if its a high-quality artisan brand such as Bellwether or Kendall Farms. You can use low-fat milkinstead of whole milk or fold in Greek yogurt rather than crme frache. Play with combinations that satisfy your palate

and desired fat intake.

(continued)


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cooking with artisan cheeses 211


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artisan cheese making at home210

10 ounces ricotta salata, drained (page 67)

10 tablespoons olive oil

3 large oranges1/2cup sugar

4 cups packed spinach leaves, stems removed,

patted dry

1/2teaspoon sea salt

6 cloves garlic, blanched and slivered

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1/2cup green olives, pitted and slivered lengthwise

1/4cup oil-cured olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

Dried mint for garnish

1/4cup shelled salted pistachios, coarsely chopped,

for garnish (optional)

Cut the ricotta salata into -inch cubes, toss in a bowl with

5 tablespoons o the olive oil, and set aside. Cut the ends off

2 o the oranges. Remove the peels and pith with a knie by

ollowing the curvature o the orange, carving below the

pith to reveal the esh. Trim off any remaining pith. Cuteach orange into 4 or 5 horizontal slices. Spread on a baking

sheet and sprinkle the tops with cup o the sugar. Set

aside. Zest the remaining orange and mince the zest, then

set both the zest and the orange aside.

Heat a cast-iron griddle pan over high heat. Place the cubes

o ricotta salata on the hot griddle and cook or 5 to 10 sec-

onds, just long enough to char. Turn over on the opposite

side and repeat until charred on the second side. Remove

the cheese rom the pan immediately and place on a baking

sheet to cool.

Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and

spread the remaining cup o sugar over the bottom o

the pan. When the sugar begins to melt, place the orange

slices sugar side down into the melting sugar. Do not move

the oranges or 1 to 2 minutes to allow the syrup to set, but

i the sugar is caramelizing beore the oranges are slightly

sofened and lightly caramelized, lower the heat. Return the

oranges, caramelized side up, to the baking sheet to cool.

Pour the cooked sugar syrup rom the pan into a bowl.

Squeeze the juice rom the zested orange into the skilletand stir to deglaze. Add the orange juice to the sugar syrup,

then stir in the zest and any sweet juices that the cooling

orange slices have exuded. Slowly whisk in 3 tablespoons o

the olive oil to make a vinaigrette.

Just beore serving, using the same skillet used or the

oranges, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons o olive oil over

medium-low heat until heated through. Add the spin-ach, salt, garlic, and red pepper akes, then quickly stir to

slightly wi lt the spinach. Do not overcook, and promptly

drain off any liquid.

Working quickly, divide the hot spinach among 6 indi-

vidual serving plates. Top each serving with caramelized

orange slices, dividing them evenly among the sa lads. Top

each salad with a ew pieces o charred ricotta salata, drizzle

with the vinaigrette, and sprinkle the olives, dried mint,and chopped pistachios, i using, over the oranges. Serve

right away.

SPINACH SALAD WITH CHARRED RICOTTA SALATA

AND CARAMELIZED ORANGES

Serves 6

Salt, sweetness, smoke, and a hint of bitterness all come together here to create a sensational salad. Caramelized

oranges are absolutely perfect with the grilled ricotta salata, and together they brighten the slightly tannic spinach and

earthy olives.


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artisan cheese making at home220


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DOUGH

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4cup almond flour or almond meal

11/2teaspoons sugar

1/2teaspoon kosher salt

1/2cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

and chilled

About 3/4cup ice water

FILLING

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces bacon, cut crosswise into narrow strips

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced into wedges

3 large shallots, thinly sliced into wedges

1/4cup maple syrup1/2teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/2teaspoon ground cardamom

2 large pears, peeled, cored, and cut into

12 wedges each

3 ounces mild blue cheese or Coastal Blue (page 184),

cut into 8 thin wedges

GLAZE

Reserved maple syrup mixture1/4cup sugar

1/4cup water

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary leaves

To make the dough, combine the al l-purpose our, almond

our, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut

the cold butter into the dry ingredients until the pieces are

the size o a pea and sti ll visible. Slowly add 6 tablespoons

o the ice water and stir to incorporate, adding more wateras needed until the dough comes together and orms a ball.

You may not need the ull amount o water. Do not over-

work the dough. Once the dough holds together, orm it

into a 6-inch disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and reriger-

ate or 30 minutes or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375F.

To make the lling, in a large skillet over medium-highheat, heat the olive oil, then add the bacon and cook, stir-

ring ofen, until the bacon is crispy and the at is rendered,

about 7 minutes. Set aside on paper towels to drain. Remove

hal o the at rom the pan, add the onion and shallots, and

saut until lightly caramelized, about 7 minutes. In a bowl,

combine the maple syrup, vanilla, and cardamom. Toss the

pear wedges in the syrup mixture to coat, then leave them to

soak in the mixture.

Working on a sheet o parchment paper, roll out the dough

into a rough 14-inch circle. Lif the parchment with the

dough onto a baking sheet. Leaving a 2-inch border, evenly

distribute the bacon-onion mixture over the the dough.

Place the pear wedges in a decorative pattern over the

bacon-onion mixture, overlapping i needed. Fill in the

center with small pieces o pear. Reserve the maple syrupmixture to use in the glaze.

(continued)

BLUE CHEESE, BACON, AND PEAR GALETTE

Makes one 10-inch tart

This savory galette combines salty-sweet bacon with maple-coated pears and an earthy blue cheese, all cozily housed in a

golden, nutty almond crust. An herbaceous rosemary glaze is the crowning touch to a real crowd-pleaser.


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artisan cheese ma king at home230

CREPES

11/2cups all-purpose flour

1/2cup unsweetened cocoa powder

6 tablespoons confectioners sugar

1/4teaspoon kosher salt

21/4cups whole milk

2 large eggs

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1/2teaspoon pure vanilla extract

FILLING AND TOPPING

2 cups fresh ricotta (page 39), drained for 1 hour

1 teaspoon confectioners sugar

1 12cups Nutella hazelnut-cocoa spread

1 12cups sour cherry or red raspberry preserves,

warmed

3/4cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

o make the crepes, in a medium bowl sif together the our,cocoa, sugar, and salt. In a separate bowl or in a blender,whisk together 2 cups o the milk, the eggs, 2 tablespoons o

the butter, and the vanilla. Add one-third o the dry ingre-dients to the blended liquid and blend until smooth. Repeattwice to blend in the rest o the dry ingredients. Cover and

rerigerate the batter or 30 minutes or overnight. Whenready to use, whisk the batter thoroughly and add up to cup

more milk i the batter is thicker than runny pancake batter.

Preheat a 10-inch nonstick skil let over medium-high heat.Brush the bottom with melted butter. Ladle enough batter(about to cup) into the pan to just cover the bottom.

Immediately lif the pan off the heat and swirl the batteraround to cover the bottom o the pan as though you weremaking an omelette. Cook or about 1 minute, until the

edges start to look dry but not crispy and a ew steam holesappear in the center. Tis tells you that theres enough struc-

ture to the crepe to be able to ip it over. Using an offsetspatula, turn the crepe over and cook or about 30 seconds.Slide the crepe rom the pan onto a plate. Continue theprocess, brushing the pan with melted butter each time andstacking the crepes until all the batter is used.

o make the lling, put the ricotta and sugar in a bowl andstir until well combined. Spread hal o each open crepe

with 2 tablespoons o Nutella. Crumble or spread thericotta over the Nutella. Fold the plain hal over the lledhal and then old again into a wedge. Place on a serving

plate, top each with 2 tablespoons o preserves and 1 table-spoon o chopped hazelnuts, and serve.

RICOTTA-FILLED CHOCOLATE CREPES

WITH NUTELLA AND SOUR CHERRY PRESERVES

Makes 12 dessert crepes

Though youre used to seeing ricotta in lasagna, this recipe showcases the versatility of this creamy cheese. Here it fills

chocolate crepes that have been spread with the decadent hazelnut-cocoa spread Nutella and topped with sour cherry

preserves and chopped hazelnuts. The crepes can be made a day ahead. Stack them with plastic wrap between them

and refrigerate in a resealable plastic bag. They will keep refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for about 1 month. Warm them

before using.


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excerpt from artisan cheese making at home by mary karlin

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