Exploits of Captain Ginger (May/June 2017)

After our exciting land journey to Monfalcone there followed two weeks of hard work getting the boat ready for the water, we rented an apartment at Sistiana a fifteen minute car ride away so were able to escape in the evening.

We launched the boat on Tuesday 9th May and sailed on the Friday, a cool, cloudy day and once out of the canal were met with a confused sea. Hoisted the main and lost the lazy jacks on one side – who tied that knot! The wind had increased to seventeen knots by this time and we sailed with two reefs quite happily to Grado our first port of call. We berthed on the outer wall of the small boat harbour rather than going into one of the many marina’s and had a peaceful night. The next day we recovered the lazy jacks and left with clear blue skies, a total contrast to the previous day, the wind increased and we had a great sail for twenty miles to Caorle where we berthed in Marina 4 as there was no viable alternative. On Sunday morning we left for Venice with a light breeze, sunny skies and had a good sail until the wind decreased and ended up motor sailing. Entering the lagoon

was a unique experience, although it looks like a big lake it is criss-crossed with channels which act as motorways for all the boat traffic from vaporetto’s, taxi’s, ambulance and police launches to delivery barges carrying everything from hotel supplies to building materials, even saw a DHL launch and another launch carrying a coffin. Our marina for four nights was on the small island of Certosa, very green and deserted apart from the marina and a small hotel. Although we were away from the hustle and bustle of Venice proper it was only a fifteen minute vaporetto ride to St Marks Square which we took the following day. Venice is a living museum, we marvelled at the skills of the Gondaliers which I could watch for hours, took in the architecture and with the aid of a guide book walked through history. St Marks Square, the Realto Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs, meandering through the myriad of small streets and the maze of canals. It had been a long day and we ate out in a small restaurant on traditional seafood risotto before meeting Judy at the bus station and heading back to the boat.

Early on Tuesday morning we visited the market to buy fish, meat, vegetables and fruit etc there was so many stalls we were spoilt for choice. Talking to a local there are only two supermarkets in Venice which we managed to avoid! We visited the island of Murano famous for its glass, the furnaces of Venice having moved to the island in the seventeenth century due to the risk of fire. On Wednesday we visited the island of Burano noted for its lace making and then to the monastery and basilica on Torcello. In the evening we returned to the boat tired but enthralled with the days adventure. On Thursday it was time to move on, we slipped out berth at Certosa and wended our way through the channels to the open sea, heading for Chioggia still within the

lagoon and known as Little Venice. The old part of town is situated on an island connected by bridges to the mainland. Divided by canals it is a major fishing port for the area and a fascinating place to visit. More of a working town than tourist resort and busy with traffic, so comparison with Venice is not realistic. The next day we left to cross the Adriatic to Croatia some 55 miles distant so it was an early morning start. It was pre-dawn as we slipped our berth with just enough light to see, but still needing navigation lights, and with a flat calm sea. A perfect start to the crossing but you know what they say about “being too good to be true” We set off motor sailing, then turned the engine off and were sailing nicely, until the skies grew black, the wind increased with the onset of rain, thunder, lightening etc….but under two reefs we had a cracking sail. Ten hours later and rather soggy, the wind had eased and we berthed on the Customs Quay at Porec to check in and then moved into the small marina. Porec is a small tourist town with the old part once surrounded by walls with their three watch towers. It is situated on the peninsular and the main tourist attraction. We spent two nights here before continuing our journey south along the Istrian coast, anchoring for lunch in the shelter of two islands off Rovinj where Judy had the first swim of the season – bracing! Our destination was Pula where we anchored for the night at the head of the bay before going into the marina the following morning.

Illuminated cranes of Pula

We were lucky to berth alongside a Dutch boat and Ton the owner who had driven out to his boat helped me find a replacement gas cylinder as the old one was condemned due to age. The following morning we stocked up from the local market with its plentiful supplies ready for the next leg. There was hardly a breath of wind when we left just after midday and we motored to Soline, a large bay south of Pula to spend a night at anchor. That night we had the most dramatic electrical storm, the bay was almost permanently illuminated by the constant flashes of lightening and the sound of thunder – then the rain hit and we had a stormy night. We spent two nights here as the wind continued the next day until mid afternoon but it was an opportunity to do a few jobs and generally have a lazy day. Friday 26 May, we woke to a peaceful setting, weighed anchor mid morning, set off in a brisk breeze and couldn’t help comparing it with the Bank Holiday rush to the coast back home! Once out the bay we headed south along the coast of Istria, past the southern peninsular and south east to the island of Losinj where we spent the first night at anchor and the following day headed into Mali, the ferry port to replenish victuals. Although we had intended to spend the night here, it was hot and noisy and we headed out to find the peace and quiet of an anchorage.

Continuing our cruise along the south west coast of Losinj we spent the next night on a buoy off the island of Ilovik before heading north for Osor to transit the canal between the islands of Losinj and Cres. We woke to a flat calm sea and I swam for the first time in the crystal clear water, even though the water temperature was little more than that in UK in the summer! The canal opens its’ swing bridge at Osor twice a day, we went through at 1700 then spent the night moored to the quay at the northern end. An ideal spot to explore the little village and have a meal ashore for a change.

The swing bridge at Osor

We were now heading back towards Monfalcone and the following day crossed the channel back to the eastern coast of Istria to anchor at Krnica, a large inlet with an active fishing fleet. Then south to anchor off the town of Medulin where the water was very shallow and forced us to anchor quite a distance from the town. pleasant spot though and because it is so enclosed the water was much warmer. From here we threaded our way through the small islands and rocks off the southern headland and north to anchor in a small bay south of Pula. Heading north we checked out of Croatia at Umag early on Sunday morning having spent the previous night at anchor in a small bay just to the south. Then on to Slovenia to check in at Piran where we spent two nights. This a pleasant little town and a firm favourite where we had dinner ashore in a lovely restaurant, climbed the clock tower of the Church of St George and walked the City Walls.

Piran showing Tartini Square and the small harbour

All too quickly it was time to move on and return to Monfalcone. We left in flat calm conditions but were soon able to sail across the bay. Unfortunately the wind continued to increase, not as forecast, and we found ourselves in the midst of the north easterly Bora. Abandoning our plan to anchor in the harbour at Sistiana as it proved untenable we sought shelter in the harbour of Monfalcone and once the torrential rain stopped had a pleasant night moored on a pontoon berth. We left

early the next morning for the short trip round the coast to enter the canal leading to our marina where we left the boat in order to return to UK for a few days.

Monfalcone via Venice to Losinj and back to Monfalcone

The Blue line shows the outward leg and Red the return