extreme how-to - november 2015

Fall Digital 2015www.extremehowto.com

PLUS:

The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement

Install an Insulated Basement Floor | DIY Benchtop Tool Stand

REPLACING ROTTEDWOOD WITH

SYNTHETIC TRIM

SIMPLE REPAIRS FORASPHALT ROOFS

FRAME A BUILDINGOR ADDITION FOR

ENERGY EFFICIENCY

SORTING OUTSANDERS FOR THE

DIY’ER

GEAR UP YOUR

WORKZONE

The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement

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F E A T U R E S

32 Gear Up your Work ZoneEquip your garage, basement or workshop with the tools and supplies you need to tackle home projects,both big and small.

40 Install an Insulated Basement FloorHere’s a three-fold approach to a new basement floor, including an insulated subfloor system, engineered cork flooring, and easy-to-install carpet squares.

04 ExtremeHowTo.com

COLUMN S

Q & A

Tool SchoolSorting out Sanders for the DIY’er

Do-It-YourselfBenchtop Tool Stand

32 40

DE PARTM ENTS

6

10

22

Skill SavvySimple Repairs for Asphalt Roofs

Project NextReplacing Rotted Wood with Synthetic Trim

SpotlightFrame a Building or Addition for Energy Efficiency

50

56

62

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&

06 ExtremeHowTo.com

Q:Thieves stole our bicycles by unscrewing the toggle bolt of the bike rack, and stealing the entire rack towhich the bikes were chained. Is there such thing as a thief-proof fastener?

A:There are security fasteners on the market that require special keys to install and remove. These screws,nuts and bolts require specially shaped drivers to turn them—tools which thieves don’t usually have at their

disposal. Some security fastenersare so unique that the keys areonly available from the fastenermanufacturer. Another option is to reinstall a standard toggle bolt,and then use a grinder to distortthe shape of its head so a thiefwon’t be able to grip it with awrench or screwdriver.

Q:How do I mount a screw-mounted fixture

onto a tile wall?

A:Installing a fixture in tilefirst requires pre-drilling

a pilot hole through the tile. Youcan then mount the screw into the substrate behind it, or use afastener designed for hollow walls.Standard twist-drill bits aren’tstrong enough to drill through theglazed tile, so you’ll need to use a carbide-tipped masonry bit. For very hard tiles, you may need a dia-mond-tipped drill bit, which will notburn out as easily as masonry bits.The bit will have a tendency to slipor skate off the glossy surface, sofirst apply an “X” of masking tapeover the hole location to providetraction for the bit during drilling.Start drilling at a low speed,increasing the speed as you go.Apply firm pressure, but not so hard that you risk breaking throughthe tile. Use a spray bottle of waterto keep the bit lubricated, whichreduces friction heat during drilling.Drill all the way through the tile andwallboard. Ease the pressure at the end of the hole for a clean cut,which provides a solid area for fastening if using a hollow-wallanchor such as a toggle bolt.

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&

08 ExtremeHowTo.com

EHT

Q:After installing a 2-by-2-foot drywall patch into a ceiling, I realized the piece was too thin and has a “pushedin” look, compared to the original. The difference is about 1/8 inch. How I can fill the dip in the drywall?

A:It’s common for ceilings to utilize 5/8-inch drywall while the walls are 1/2 inch, which would account forthe difference in thickness that you’re experiencing in your ceiling patch. You have three options: Remove

the patch and replace with 5/8-inch drywall; push out the patchfrom behind with furring strips; or, fill in the void with several thincoats of drywall compound. If youchoose the latter, use a settingtype compound for heavy fillcoats. You can do a final skimcoat with standard ready-mixedjoint compound.

Q:When hanging drywall,how far apart should Ispace the drywall fasteners?

A:Fastener spacing forinstalling gypsum panels

depends on the particular drywallapplication and fastener type. Forexample, when nailing to woodframing members, United StatesGypsum Corporation (USG, themanufacturers of Sheetrock) recommends the spacing is 7inches for ceilings, and 8 inchesfor walls. When screwing intowood and steel construction thespacing is 12 inches on ceilingsand 16 inches for walls. EHTrecommends using screws fordrywall installation to prevent nail pops in the future.

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TOOL SCHOOL

The technical term for smooth-ing wood flat prior to finishingis “abrading,” but most DIY’ers

know the process by the layman’sterm, “sanding.” From removingpaint to polishing grain for woodstain, sanding is an indispensableDIY skill.The abrasive particles in sand-

paper are graded and numberedas “grit,” indicating how coarse orfine the particles are, which direct-ly correlates to the paper’s abilityto scrape away material.Sandpaper with very coarse gritsin the 50 to 60 range is ideal for heavy shaping and materialremoval, such as stripping awayold finishes or thinning the stock.Medium grits ranging from 120 to180 can be used for light shaping

and finishing. Fine grits from 220to 280 are suitable for smoothingthe wood for the application of afinishing product like paint orstain. And the very finest gritsrange from 320 to 600, ideal forfinal finishing, taking off sharpedges, and sanding between coats of varnish. A good approach for a DIY’er

is to select three grits to havehandy. Start with the sandpaperthat’s just coarse enough toremove the worst surface defects.Using too coarse a grit risks leav-ing deep scratches in the wood,which requires more fine sandinglater. Use too fine a grit, and you’llbe sanding forever. An 80-grit sand-paper is usually a good place tostart. However, coarse grits will

leave fine scratches on the wood,so the next step is to turn theselarge scratches into smallerscratches with a finer paper ofaround 120-grit. For the finalsanding phase, a 220-grit sand-paper will work for most types ofwood. Wood with dense grain mayrequire finer grits, like 320-grit toremove the last of the scratches,resulting in a smooth, ready-to-finish surface. The tools that hold the sand-

paper come in a wide range ofshapes and sizes, all with specificintended applications. Here’s arundown of what’s available.

MANUAL HAND SANDERSObviously, using a hand sander

is slower and more labor intensivethan using a powered sander, butit’s quiet, generates less dust andgives the user complete control ofthe sanding action. Rather thanusing a folded piece of sandpaperand rubbing with your fingers,you’ll get better results from asanding block. A sanding blockdistributes the pressure evenlyover the working surface of thetool for a flatter finish, whereasfinger pressure can result inuneven grooves where pressurewas concentrated only at the fingertips.

Sorting out Sanders for the DIY’er

By Matt Weber

10 www.extremehowto.com

Smooth MovesHand sanders give the user complete control of sanding speedand pressure for a wide range ofshaping and finishing chores.Shown is a variety of ergonomicZip sanders from Ali Industries.

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TOOL SCHOOL

Generally, it’s best to sand withthe grain of the wood to eliminatecross-grain scratches. In someapplications, such as removingdeep scratches or removing a fin-ish, you will achieve faster materialremoval by sanding across thegrain at a 45-degree angle, butexpect a lot of cleanup sanding to remove the inevitable scratchmarks. When sanding with a block,use firm but not excessive pres-sure. Let the abrasive grit do thework, and change the paper often—this holds true for any type ofsanding tool. Another good rule of thumb is to finish up a sand-ing job by using a fine-grit paper to soften the edges of the workpiece. Create a tiny bevel to elimi-nate sharp edges on woodenobjects, which reduces the risk of splintering and nicks. Only usea hand sander—not a poweredsander—to soften the edges.On a smooth, non-grained

surface such as metal, move the sandpaper in small circularmotions.

ORBITAL SANDERSPowered orbital sanders, also

called pad sanders, are availablein models that use 1/2-, 1/4- or 1/3-sheets of sandpaper.

Depending on the model, you can attach the sandpaper to thesanding pad with hook-and-loopfasteners, use precut sheets withpeel-and-stick backing, or simplycut a sheet of sandpaper to sizeand attach it with clamps at thefront and rear. Some modelsrequire two hands to operate,while smaller models, called palmsanders, require only one. Bothtypes move in a slight circular pat-tern, which feels like they arevibrating, and should be used inthe same direction as the woodgrain to avoid scratching the stock.When selecting a sander, look fora palm sander that has a dust-col-lection device or a hookup for avacuum system to help maintainair quality in the work area. Also,by sanding in a circular pattern thegrit crosses the wood grain, whichgenerally leaves tiny swirl markson the surface. Before applying afinish, these swirled scratchesneed to be hand-sanded out in the same direction as the grain.

RANDOM-ORBIT SANDERSAmong the most popular hand

sanders are random-orbit sanders

that utilize a circular sanding pad.The unique motion of a random-orbit sander operates by rotatingthe sanding disk while the wholepad simultaneously moves in anoval pattern. This creates a ran-dom sanding pattern so the abra-sive particles never follow thesame path to minimize scratches.Random-orbit sanders are excel-lent tools to remove finishes andprep the wood for final sanding.Five- and 6-inch models are avail-able, with 5-inch being the mostpopular for DIY’ers. Most modelsfeature integrated dust controlbecause the action of the tool will kick up a lot of dust. Also, look for variable speed control to help match the sanding speedto the application at hand.Random orbit sanders do

have limitations. For one thing, the circular pad means it can’taccess enclosed square corners,such as the inside of a shelf.Additionally, while random-orbitswork more quickly than othervibrating power sanders, they can’t remove material as aggres-sively as a belt sander for thoseheavy-duty chores.

Powered orbital sanders, alsocalled pad or palm sanders, areavailable in models that use 1/2-,1/4- or 1/3-sheets of sandpaper.


The square shape of a 1/4-sheet palm sander can access the inside cor-ners of cabinets and shelves. This palm sander from Skil warns the userwhen excessive pressure is applied.


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SAVE YOUR FENCE

&MAILBOXPOST!

Lawn mowers and grass trimmers damage the bottom of fence and mailbox posts. Exposed wood will deteriorate faster, look unsightly, and attract insects. You can now affordably protectyour posts and maintain the beauty of your home with Post Shields.

If your posts have already taken a beating, you can use Post Shields to cover the damage and immediately stop further destruction.

The four shields are easy to install and are available inmultiple colors, post and height sizes. Check them out at postshields.com and ask for them in your local hardware store.

BELT SANDERS Belt sanders are the real

beasts of the bunch when itcomes to fast, aggressive material removal. Much like ahandheld, portable version of a

small benchtop sander, thesepowered sanders feature a con-tinuous loop or belt of abrasivepaper that stretches across twowheels at the front and back. Thebelt spins and removes stock for

quick work on the initial phasesof rough sanding jobs. Since beltsanders remove a lot of materialat a rapid rate, some have vari-able speed controls that enablethe operator to adjust the sanderto run at a more comfortablelevel. However, never use a beltsander for finish work, as theaction is simply too aggressiveand you’ll likely do more harmthan good to the work piece. That fast spinning belt also workslike a spinning tire pulling the tool forward, which can makethese models tough to controland unsuitable for delicate sand-ing operations.

When operating a belt sander,use both hands and move aroundthe workpiece to prevent digginga divot in a single spot. Work thesander at an angle to the grain of

TOOL SCHOOL


The random sanding pattern of random-orbit sanders minimizesscratches because the abrasive particles never follow the same path.


the wood to rapidly remove a lot ofmaterial. Or, position it parallel tothe grain to minimize scratches.Note: Always make sure the triggeris OFF before plugging in a beltsander, otherwise the sander maymake like a tiny dragster andlaunch across the table or room,until it crashes into some object or jerks the cord out of its socket.

Walk-behind floor sanders arelike belt sanders on steroids. Theyremove finishes, scratches and

www.extremehowto.com 15

Most random orbit sanders havehook-and-loop sanding pads for

quick and easy grit changes.


dents by aggressively sandingaway the surface material at arapid rate. Floor sanders are largeand expensive, but can be rentedby the DIY’er to avoid investing inthe high cost of the tool.

DETAIL SANDERS,DREMELS ANDOSCILLATING TOOLS

Some models of palm sandershave a bullet-shaped abrasive padwith a pointed nose for detail work

and to access tight spaces andinside corners. Some detailsanders, sometimes referred to as contour sanders, can be fittedwith specially shaped interchange-able pads for sanding edges androunds on non-flat surfaces.

Rotary tools, such as a Dremel,can also be outfitted as detailsanders for sanding around oddshapes and small nooks in wood-work. When equipped with smallsanding drums they are frequently

TOOL SCHOOL


Belt sanders use a continuous loopor belt of abrasive paper for fast,aggressive material removal. Thelatest models feature advancedtrack technology to keep the belt inline during operation.


used for craft projects and mill-work, such as window and door casings. Detail sanders are available in corded and cordlessmodels and usually come withmultiple attachments.Among the most versatile types

of power tools are the multi-func-tion oscillating tools popularizedby the Fein Multimaster. Thesedays a variety of manufacturers,including Bosch, Rockwell andCraftsman, are running with the


Some models of palmsanders have a bullet-shaped

abrasive pad with a pointednose for detail work and

to access tight spaces and inside corners.


concept of these multipurposedevices, which do everything fromscrape and grind to flush-cut andsand. Such tools generally comewith a variety of attachments for

removing floor covering and adhesive residue, and usuallyinclude hook-and-loop sandingplates for both rough and smoothsanding tasks.

TOOL SCHOOL

Porter-Cable has an 18-volt lithi-um-ion cordless sander that fea-tures a detachable detail finger forreaching hard-to-reach spots.


Multipurpose oscillating tools can be fitted with a variety ofattachments to do everything from scrape and grind to flush-cut and sand.

Rockwell’s SoniCrafter oscillatingtool is available with a variety ofsanding and polishing attach-ments for work with wood, plasticand hardened fillers.

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TOOL SCHOOL

DRILLS AND DISCSFor rough sanding and scouring

rust from metal, several sandingaccessories are available with apost that fits into the chuck of anelectric drill. Sanding disks areavailable in 4- and 6-inch versionswith a soft rubber face that can befitted with a round piece of sand-paper. Another useful tool is a wirebrush, similar to what’s oftenmounted on a bench grinder. Stiffwire brushes spread in a circlearound a hub and operate similarto an abrasive paint brush.

When using a drill for sanding,use one hand around the motorand the other around the handlefor best control. Only use the drillperiodically, allowing it to rest andcool. Some drills may not bedesigned for sustained heavy-dutyload, in which case you should optfor an electric angle grinder or adedicated disk sander.


Not all sandpapers are created equal. Here’s a rundown of what’s available for your next project.

Aluminum Oxide—The most common type of sandpaper is aluminum oxide. This is a good choice for smoothing and shapingwood, available in a wide variety of grits, usually brown or gray in color.Aluminum oxide is hard and sharp, and it fragments as it cuts, whichrenews the sanding surface.

Zirconium Oxide—The “new kid on the block” is zirconium oxide sand-paper, commonly known as cubic zirconium. Zirconium oxide has a diamond-like quality that is harder and sharper than standard aluminum oxide, so it cuts faster and holds its cutting edge longer.

Silicon Oxide—Silicon oxide sandpaper is usually black and glued on a waterproof backing for wet-sanding applications. Water is washed over the surface of the work piece, clearing away dust that can clog the abrasive to prevent heat buildup. Silicon oxide is available in finer grits, generally 400 and up, used for sanding non-wood surfaces, such as metal and stone, to a glassy finish.

Garnet Sandpaper—Typically reddish orange in color, garnet sandpaper cuts slower than other abrasives. Because it tends to burnish the surface, garnet sandpaper is best for prepping wood prior to finishing so the wood more evenly absorbs stain.

Emery Cloth—Emery cloth uses black emery abrasive adhered to a fabric backing so it remains flexible. Theabrasive grit removes paint and corrosion from metal surfaces, while the finer grits clean and polish. Emery cloth is often used to prepare copper pipe before soldering.

Sanding Screens—Generally used for finishing drywall joints, sanding screens are a coarse fiberglass mesh covered with abrasive material. The drywall dust passes through the holes in the screen to prevent clogging, and the screens can be renewed by washing with water.

PAPER TRAIL

When fitted with smallsanding drums, rotarytools can be used on craftprojects and millwork, likewindow and door casings.

Rotary tools can be equipped with sanding drums and grindingwheels for detail applications.


Abrasive power tools also haveuses beyond wood prep and paintremoval. Bench grinders, forexample, feature an abrasivewheel for grinding and shaping avariety of materials, including tool-sharpening applications. Similarin concept but unique in designand engineering is the Work Sharptool sharpening system. The WorkSharp utilizes a high-speed abra-sive disc on a glass wheel, as wellas an air-cooled abrasive port, tosharpen a wide variety of tools.This unique system sharpenseverything from chisels and flatblades to lathe tools, carving tools,

scrapers, putty knives and more.It’s just one more example oftoday’s sanding technologyexpanding and evolving to meetthe growing demands of pros andDIY’ers alike.

ResourcesCraftsmanwww.craftsman.com

Porter-Cable www.deltaportercable.com

Powersmith Mag Lith-ionwww.maglithion.com

Rockwellwww.rockwelltools.com

Skilwww.skiltools.com

Tyler Toolwww.tylertool.com

Work Sharpwww.worksharptools.com

Zip Sander www.zipsander.com

After you’ve sanded a woodsurface smooth for finishing,wipe it with a damp cloth and letit dry. This not only removesdust, but the moisture will raisethe grain of the wood, makingthe surface feel fuzzy. Then sandaway the fuzz. This extra stepreduces the likelihood that thefinishing product itself will raisethe grain and affect the look andtexture of the wood.

FUZZY, WAS IT?

The Work Sharpsystem uses anabrasive pad ona glass wheel for sharpeningall sorts of tools,from chisels andflat blades to lathe tools andscrapers.

EHT



DO IT YOURSELF

Benchtop tools came intotheir own with Ryobi’s AP10planer about 20 years ago.

Today, most woodworking toolmanufacturers make one or morebenchtop planer models, tools thatmake any kind of woodworking a loteasier for most people. As the plan-ers gained popularity, small jointerscame along. Short jointers in 6-inchwidths are very handy, take up onlya little space, and come without anysort of stand, as do the planers.Benchtop drill presses are similarin intent and utility, again, withoutany kind of stand designed for it.Some small bandsaws come with-out good stands, too.

Swinging any of these tools ontoa real benchtop is easy enoughonce, though some of the newerplaners now weigh about 100

pounds, making repetition bothawkward and difficult. Using themat that height may not be. Planersand jointers are easier to workwith when their work surface isinches lower than the resultingheight on your average benchtop.

The stand built here is sized fora benchtop planer, specifically theDeWalt mounted on it, as shownabove. It also works well for abenchtop drill press or jointer. Itcan easily be raised or loweredduring building, simply by cuttinglegs to different lengths. Adding a shelf, if one is desired, is easy.

Steel stands are also available.They’re expensive and hard toassemble, though. Building yourown stand with 2x6s, 2x4s andplywood, plus an occasional bit of1x4, is simple and isn’t half the

cost of steel stands. This not-so-pretty stand is designed to be exceptionally sturdy, but alsoeasy to make with tools that mostpeople have on hand, or can readi-ly borrow. The Milwaukee slidecompound miter saw shown in thisarticle isn’t essential, but is a realtime saver and accuracy provider.

If you already have a shop full of tools, the job is even easier.

TOOLS AND MATERIALSI started building my worksta-

tion by having Lowe’s cut the 2x6sto 4-ft. lengths, allowing me tocarry all parts home in my car. The2-by-2-ft. top is sanded 3/4-in. ply-wood, right off the shelf. If a bottomshelf is desired, pick up a 2-by-2-ft.piece of 1/4-in. sanded plywood.Cut that to fit inside the legs.

The 1x4 braces are whitewood.Buy 6- or 8-ft. pieces. Use the 6-ft.if carrying the wood in a car, 8-ft.with a pickup. The top brace is 22inches long. The bottom is 19inches long. The 2x4 leg braces onthe bottom are fastened inside the

By Charlie Self


Benchtop Tool StandBuild a workstation from common tools and materials.

Shown is the finished stand with a DeWalt planer ready to be bolted in place

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legs to support a shelf if desired,while the top braces are outsidethe legs to add support for the top.Tool requirements include a

miter saw, a square, a drill, two

drill bits, a couple of driver bits forscrews, and a wrench to tightenhex bolts used for assembly. Tossin an impact driver to ease run-ning screws in at the later stages.

The stand is designed to be con-structed from nominal lumbersizes, so the only cutting neededis to final lengths and angles.Standard 3-1/2-by-5/16-in. hex-head bolts are used, with nutsand washers right out of the bins.Carefully select the lumber.

Construction lumber is roughwhen good, awful when poor.

DO IT YOURSELF

Cut it square at the mark.

Set the miter saw at 10 degreesand carefully lock.

Mark a 2x6 at 37 or 38 inches.


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FRAMING UPStep one, after buying wood

and fasteners, is to square oneend on each 2x6 to have a start-ing point. If you prefer, ends canfirst be cut to 10 degrees, theangle that stabilizes the legs frontto rear when the stand is in use.The slight leg splay does a greatjob of preventing tip-over, evenwhen fairly long boards areplaned. Make sure to cut bothangles without flipping the board.The ends look like / /.With four legs cut to correct

length, the next cuts are the 2x4 side braces. (The length of

the legs is 31-1/4 inches: If you’reshorter than about 5 ft., 10 in.,cut 1 inch off; if you’re taller than6 ft., then add 1 inch.) The topbrace is 20-7/8 inches long, cutto a 10-degree angle at each end,this time with the angles resultingin a shorter piece, not a slantedpiece. For this, you flip the 2x4, sothe ends are / \. Cut two topbraces. Cut the bottom brace to28 inches long at its bottom,again with the 10-degree slants at both ends,resulting in a shorter top—26-3/4 inches here. Again, the ends are / \.


Make the first angle cut.

Make the first leg cut.

Measure the final length carefully.

Mark the length of the secondpiece from 2x6.


Clear a decent sized workarea, and lay out the first threepieces for lumber. Align the toppiece with the legs so the 10-degree splay is going to be at thebottom. Align carefully togetherand mark for bolt holes in thefirst 2x4, making sure it issecurely clamped to the 2x6under it. Mark for three boltholes, in a triangle pattern, keep-ing hole centers at least 3/4 inchinside lumber edges. Drill allthree holes in the first clamped-together piece, as the photosshow. Drilling depth is near maxi-mum bit length here, so back thebit out and tap it lightly to free itof debris, and to let heat dissi-pate a little for each hole. Use a5/16-in. drill bit. A light hammertap or two gets the bolts intotheir holes this way. Alignment is better with tighter holes.Rigidity is improved, too.

Bolt the first pieces together,using a washer under both thehead and nut. Snug up the nuts,but not to final tightness. Now,

move on to the second leg. Useshim stock to make up for thebolt ends lifting the first leg a bit, align, clamp and drill. Bolttogether as before, making sureto use washers on both sides.

Turn the leg set over. Square itwith the top of your workbench.

Measure up 10 inches fromthe bottom of each leg and alignthe lower brace to the inside ofthe leg. Clamp securely in place,and mark for the bolt holes, againin a triangle pattern; three ateach end. Drill. Place the boltswith washers, then add nuts withwashers, and finger-tighten firmly.

Assemble the second set oflegs in exactly the same manner.

The 1x4 braces come next.Mark 3/4 inch inward from theedge, and then 2-1/4 inchesinward, and drill pilot holes. Now,align with the top brace and leg,and screw into place. Note theuse of square-drive screws, withpan heads. The reason is simple:


DO IT YOURSELF

Use the first leg as a template for the final length for all.

Make the second leg cut.

Cut the second leg.

Cut a 2x4 at the 10-degree angle.

The 1x4s are all cut square.

Mark for holes, clamp carefullyand drill.

Watch for ink that might blockyour mark.

Use the first piece as a templatefor the second.


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The screws were in the shop, andI’d forgotten to buy wood screws of the correct length. It is also a24-mile round trip to a hardwarestore.

The first set of legs gets all fourside braces installed. It’s then rea-sonably easy to snug the second setof legs inside the braces, while thestand is upright on the floor. Run

the screws in. The Ryobi impactdriver is a good wrist and forearmsaver with this many screws todrive—32 on the braces, plus 10 to hold the top in place. It saves time as well as effort.Settle the stand on the floor

and snug up the nuts and bolts all around. There’s no need to wrench them down tight. A


Good, solid clamping keeps theholes aligned.

Remove the bit from the hole, taplightly to clean and finish drilling.

Bolt the first leg top before drillingthe second leg.

DO IT YOURSELF


moderately tight fit does just fine without crushing too manywood fibers.

There should be no need for lock washers, either. If it’s necessary, one of the mid-rangegrades of Loctite works just fineinstead, and doesn’t force a stepinto 4-in. bolt lengths. The 3-1/2-in. long hex-head bolts offer just

enough length to get through 3inches of wood, with room for aflat washer and the nut.

For nuts and bolts and wash-ers, go for a good grade that is

zinc-plated. More weatherproof-ing, such as double galvanizing, is not needed for indoor tools.Stainless steel is a waste ofmoney, too.

Bolt the first leg in place beforefurther drilling.

Shim stock levels the second hole sites.

A stretcher goes inside the leg set.



TABLE TOPFinally, add the top. The 2-by-2-ft.

sheet of 3/4-in. plywood provides alip on each side of 1 inch. From theedge of the plywood, measure in 1-3/4 inch and mark a line for pilot holes. Space themequally along the sheet, start atabout 3 inches from each end. Usefive screws per side.

Run the screws in. Stand backand take a look at the site of yourbenchtop planer (or jointer, orbandsaw or drill press). If youdecide to use this stand for a smallbandsaw, I suggest building a boxon top of the top, about 5 to 8 inch-es tall, open at the ends. This ele-vates the bandsaw to a usefulheight, while also providing someblade storage.

To add a shelf, use 1/4-inchsanded plywood, cut to width.Measure the inside of the standjust above the bottom braces. Cutthe plywood to length. Fasten inplace with four 1-inch flatheadpower-drive screws on each side.

The stand isn’t pretty—after all,this is construction lumber, made to be used inside walls. But it will outlast a couple of portableplaners.


DO IT YOURSELF

Pilot holes are required to takescrews into each 2x6 end.

Use a square to draw lines for thepilot holes. Drill the pilot holes.

Lay out the pilot holes through thetop and into the frame.

EHT

Mark, clamp and drill as on thetop cross piece.

Use washers on both head andnut sides.

Shown is the assembled leg setfrom inside.


RedDevilFP_Layout 1 10/7/15 5:09 PM


MODULINESince the company's inception, Moduline has manu-

factured the best aluminum cabinets available on themarket. Made in the USA from the highest quality mate-rials, the precise workmanship is reflected in cabinetsand accompanying accessories that are built to last alifetime. Moduline also offers exceptional customer support to help you make the right decisions about yourcabinet system. The informative website and catalogs, combined with trained cabinet experts, serve as your guide and answer any questions you might have about the various prod-ucts. Whether for a commercial or residential application, you cancount on customer support before, during, and after your purchase tocover all layout and design ideas for your space. Moduline will also createCAD drawings, so you can see what your cabinet system will look like andmake sure the designs are congruent with what you had in mind. Visitwww.modulinecabinets.com or call 1-888-343-4463.

Equip your garage, basement

or workshop with the tools and supplies youneed to tackle home

projects, both big and small.

GEAR UP YOUR

WORKZONE

GarageFeatureEDIT_Layout 1 10/7/15 4:48 PM

SMART JARSIn three simple steps, small

items in need of storage go fromdistributed clutter to organizedand ready for action. Here's how it works: First, put your stuff in a SmartJar. Snap the SmartJarDock onto a pegboard. Place theSmartJar into the Dock. That’s it.The system is an excellent way toorganize and label small items

such as screws, nails, nuts, bolts, fishing tackle, craft items—you name it. When stowed, theSmartJar gives you an easy view of whatever you decide to store in it. The docks are easy to insertand remove in standard pegboard.You lay them out and arrangethem for the look and aestheticyou want. SmartJars are trans-parent, air-tight, durable and food-safe (BPA free). You can alsoplace a label on the lid for quickreference. Visit Smartjars.com.

G-FLOOR SOLID COLOR SERIESBetter Life Technologies,

LLC, offers the G-Floor FloorCover/Protector, a vinyl garageflooring that rolls out for easyinstallation. The rolls come in avariety of sizes to fit almost anygarage. The EHT staff recentlyinstalled this in a residential two-car garage. G-Floor is available inseven sharp colors, from MidnightBlack to Brick Red, and comes infour widths, from 7-1/2 feet to 10feet. Custom sizes and grades areavailable. G-Floor provides a mois-ture barrier, reduces noise, hides

pre-existing cracks and stains andlasts for years. The ribbed or chan-neled surface of the floor coveralso channels away liquids toreduce the amount of dirt trackedinto a home. Visit www.bltllc.com.

G-FLOOR RACEDAY PEEL-AND-STICK TILES There’s nothing beautiful about

a dull concrete slab. G-FloorRaceDay Peel-and-Stick Floor Tilesprovide a cool, professional lookand handle harsh work environ-ments like water, oil, gas and grav-el. RaceDay Tiles are made from100-percent polyvinyl vinyl for atough, glossy finished surface thatwithstands the most demandingconditions from tires, heavy jacksand casters that are constantly

being rolled across the flooring.RaceDay Floor Tiles use a specialadhesive that is as tough as thetiles it binds. Additionally, customlogo printing is optional. Visitwww.bltllc.com.


Unroll the G-Floor Protector and trim to fit.

Trim with scissors or utility knife. Overlapedges by 6 inches; taping is optional.

Enjoy your durable new flooring.

GEAR UP YOUR

WORKZONE


EPOXY-SEAL CONCRETE &GARAGE FLOOR PAINT

Epoxy-Seal Concrete & GarageFloor Paint is 3X more durablethan porch and floor paint. It is aready-to-use acrylic/epoxy blendformulated to resist hot tire pick-up, water, oil, grease and gasolinestains. It dries to a durable, UV-resistant satin finish that resistsscuffing, peeling, blistering andfading. Epoxy-Seal is easy to maintain, making it ideal for both

interior and exterior high-trafficareas including garage floors,driveways, shop floors, basements,pool decks, walkways, patios,porches and more. It is availablein two premixed colors—slate gray and armor gray—or can betinted to match any color. Formore information about Epoxy-Seal, including where to buy it,visit seal-krete.com.

CENTIPEDE WORKSUPPORT SYSTEMS

The new Centipede Sawhorseand Centipede Support XL are twoinnovative, portable work supportsystems. Each serve as a heavy-duty table or workbench base thatsets up in seconds without assem-bly and folds down into a compact,lightweight unit for easy transportand convenient storage. Featuringa unique steel frame design, theCentipede Portable Work Systemis constructed of multiple strutsthat rest directly between the load

and ground to support an incredi-ble amount of weight while keep-ing the thinnest materials fromsagging. Each strut is moved intandem with steel cross bars flexi-ble enough to absorb impacts anddurable enough to ensure long-lasting operation. Polymer P-Topsatop each strut provide a work sur-face that avoids contact damagebetween cutting blades and steelstruts. Each P-Top is replaceableand accommodates the use ofincluded accessories.

The Centipede Sawhorse has anoverall weight capacity of 1,500lbs. and supports sheet lumberand table or bench tops over a 2-by-4-ft. area. The CentipedeSupport XL has an overall weightcapacity of 3,000 lbs. and supportsmaterials over a 4-by-8-ft. area.Each kit includes a carry bag, Quick Clamps to keep materials inplace and X-Cups for quick setup oftraditional sawhorse applications.Visit www.centipedetool.com.


Before

After


RED DEVIL HAND TOOLS

Red Devil’s legacy in hand tools and putty knives began 143 years ago when tools werehand-forged by blacksmiths.Today, Red Devil’s wide range ofhand tools for DIY'ers and profes-sionals have been built on qualityproducts crafted for convenienceand comfort. For example, the EZ Grip tool line relieves pressureon the hand and wrist whenspackling and scraping. Otherlines of flexible and stiff handtools include the 4100 Series with polished wood handles, 4200 Pro Series, with nylon sol-vent resistant handles and the4800 Economy Series with heavy-duty plastic handles—all featuringcarbon steel blades that extendthrough the handle for addedstrength. Red Devil also has yourback and saves your knees withfavorites like the SlamscraperImpact Tool, which quicklyremoves tile, carpet, linoleum and even ice on steps and drive-ways. And, time-saving multi-usetools, such as the EZ Grip 11-in-1tool, perform a multitude of differ-ent tasks as a scraper, spreader,gouger, hammer, rake, opener andmore. Red Devil has a tool for justabout any wall repair job aroundthe house. Beyond putty knivesand scrapers, Red Devil alsooffers wallcovering, masonry, tiling and drywall tools. Visit www.reddevil.com.

WORKSHOP WET/DRYVAC WS1400C14

Rough terrain is no obstacle for the Workshop Wet/Dry VacWS1400C14, which features high performance and mobility,noise-reducing technology and a rugged two-piece drum. One of the quietest models in theWorkshop line, this 6-peak horse-power, 14-gallon shop vac fea-tures an ergonomic handle andlarge rear wheels. The 2-1/2-in.hose offers 180-degree flexibility

at both ends for better maneuver-ability. The Roll Tight LockingSleeve keeps accessories securelyconnected, and the hose conve-niently stores on-board when not in use. Accessories includeVac, Hose, Utility Nozzle, CarNozzle, Wet Nozzle, Two ExtensionWands, Locking Sleeve, Fine DustFilter and Dust Bag. Visit work-shopvacs.emerson.com.

GRIZZLY BENCHTOPSANDER MODEL G0787

The new 4-by-36-in.Horizontal/Vertical Belt Sanderfrom Grizzly also has a 6-in. disc.

Powered by a 1⁄2-horsepower,120V, single-phase motor, the belt sander turns at 1900 FPM.The disc sander rotates at 3600RPM. Plus, the belt sander platentilts from 0–90°, and disc sandertable adjusts from 0–45°.

Additional features include a built-in dust port, fast-trackingadjustment knob, and quick-release belt tension lever. Visitwww.grizzly.com.

KLEIN TOOLSHOLEMAKING PRODUCTS

The new Klein holemaking prod-ucts include Bi-Metal Hole Saws,Double-Fluted Step Drill Bits andWood Boring Bits. These newtools, along with existing products


GEAR UP YOUR

WORKZONE


such as Carbide Hole Cutters,Ship-Auger Bits, KnockoutPunches and Flex Drill Bits, provide a complete, high per-formance line of holemakingequipment for steel, wood, drywall, plastic, tile and othermaterials. The updated Klein products are made from heavy-duty steel for fast, superior cutting, while engineered forlonger-lasting performance andhigher durability then previousmodels. They cut holes quicker,cleaner and easier, making themmore productive on the job. Visit www.kleintools.com.

MAPEI ULTRALITE S2 MORTAR

At the request of American tileassociations, the MAPEI Researchand Development labs extensively

tested methods for successfullyinstalling large thin tiles and com-piled a set of reference guides forinstalling 1/8- to 1/4-in. tiles and3/16- to-1/4-in. tiles. As a result ofcontinued work in this field, MAPEIhas developed a mortar that

addresses the major issuesinvolved in getting a perfect fitbetween large, thin tile and itssubstrate. With Ultralite S2, MAPEIoffers a solution for lighter settingmaterials that make the handlinglarge, thin tiles more controllable.The new mortar has more opentime to accommodate the needs of the installation environmentassociated with back-buttering tileand applying it to the substrate.The product is also easier to troweland has better wet-transfer proper-ties to provide full coverage withimproved bond. Visitwww.mapei.com.

LEVELQUIK SELF-LEVELINGUNDERLAYMENT

Planning to install flooring inyour garage, basement or work-shop? LevelQuik Self-LevelingUnderlayments includes bothLevelQuik RS, for rapid settingapplications and LevelQuik ES,with extended setting properties.Both products seek their own lev-els in minutes after pouring. Thenew LevelQuik formula providessuperior crack resistance, betterhandling and even greater cover-age. Its Controlled Cure Technologyregulates the rate at which waterevaporates during the curing process,prompting fast and consistent

hydration. LevelQuik also helpseliminate installation problemsincluding bond failure, crumblingand staining of resilient flooringcaused by free moisture found in traditional underlayments.LevelQuik products help levelfloors prior to the installation ofceramic tile and natural stone,resilient flooring, carpet, wood and other floor coverings. Visitwww.custombuildingproducts.com.

RIDGID GEN5X 18VJOBSITE BLOWER

The Ridgid 18V Jobsite Blower(R860430B) is making jobsitecleanup easier than ever. Withover 280 CFM and 100 MPH thisblower has best-in-class airflow.Combine the air flow with over 20 mins of run-time on a 4.0Ahbattery and you cannot go wrong.With its compact Size, you canreach tight spaces without givingup power. The variable-speed




trigger matches the airflow to theapplication, and a Micro TextureHex Grip enhances user comfort.Visit www.ridgid.com.

STANLEY SATELLITERECHARGEABLE LEDWORK LIGHT

Stanley together with BaccusGlobal offers the Stanley Satellight,an innovative work light. Designedfor closed flashlight use, as well as an open Ultra-Bright LED widerange viewing, the Satellight has 3folding Light Panels and a Pivotinghead. It also offers portable power,giving you the ability to rechargeelectronic devices and more onthe go, while having a runtime ofup to 6 hours. The 1-amp USBcharging/Power Supply Port is

conveniently located and readilyavailable on the base of the lightfor all of your portable powerneeds. The Satellight has a multi-function power button: High / Low/ Area / All / Flash and arechargeable lithium-ion battery,so you never have to worry aboutreplacement batteries, just simplyplug in. The flashlight features amagnetic base to easily attach tomost metal surfaces, and theStow-away hanging hook is easilyaccessible for light lantern use.Visit www.baccusglobal.com.

VETO PRO PAC PB4PARTS BAGS

Veto Pro Pac's new PB4 PartsBags is a set of four parts bagsdesigned to help tradesmenorganize and store small tools andassorted items. The PB4 parts

bags are color-coded; contain areinforced see-through side panelsallowing for clear visibility of con-tents; and, they're made of 600denier nylon body fabric to reducewear and tear. In addition, thePB4s have a metal swivel hookthat attaches to any Veto Pro Pactool bags’ outside D-rings or theycan be stored inside the tool bags.Ultimately, the PB4 is a 4-pac solu-tion to the clutter dilemma, andthey are versatile for everyday usein the field, at the office, or evenat home. Visit www.vetopropac.com.

ZERUSTAll Zerust products operate on

the same basic principle, to createan invisible barrier of corrosion-blocking molecules around yourvaluable metal items. Exposedmetal surfaces protected withZerust benefit from a long-lastingshield against rust, tarnish andcorrosion. The patented technologyis odorless, non-toxic, eco-friendly,

and lasts up to five years. Thecompany's Drawer Liners, whichcombine the corrosion-inhibitingformula with a heavy-duty non-slipPVC rubber, save you time andmoney by sparing you from havingto apply costly oils and WD-40 onthe contents of your toolbox. Andthe Zerust Table Saw Covers areuniquely designed to guard yourmost expensive investment fromrust, electrochemical reactions,dust and moisture. If you’re look-ing for effective, affordable, guar-anteed-to-last rust protection prod-ucts, visit zerustproducts.com.

PORTER-CABLE 20V MAXOSCILLATING TOOL

The 20V MAX Oscillating Tool(PCC710B) offers a patent-pend-ing Tool-Free System that allowsusers to perform quick and easyaccessory changes or adjust-ments, resulting in minimal down-time on the jobsite. The OscillatingTool is ideal for cutting, sanding,scraping, and grinding applicationsthat require precise control and

cut quality. It features variablespeeds between 10,000-18,000oscillations-per-minute (OPM) foroptimizing the tool’s performancedepending on the application.|The Oscillating Tool has a three-position over-mold grip and LEDwork light for illuminating darkwork areas. Twenty accessoriesare available for cutting, sanding,scraping and grinding applications.The Oscillating Tool is also com-patible with DeWalt’s UniversalFitment System. Visit www.portercable.com.

GEAR UP YOUR

WORKZONE



Those who enter could win $5,000 worth of Channellock tools for their garage. The company will even fly the winner to the factory for a VIP tour so they can see how their new tools are made. But the prizes don’t stop there. This year’s winner will also receive two 2016 season tickets for the football team of their choice as well as a collection of tailgatinggear valued at $5,000. “The Gridiron Garage Giveaway has always been about bringing together some of our fans’ favorite things–Channellock

tools, garages, tailgating and football,” says Ryan DeArment, Vice President of Sales and Marketing at Channellock, Inc.“For our fifth year, we wanted this to be the biggest prize package yet, and welook forward to seeing the winner in Meadville, Pa.”

The prize package is worth more than $12,000 and includes:

• $5,000 worth of CHANNELLOCK® tools

• Roundtrip airfare and accommodations for two to Meadville,Pa., home of Channellock Inc., for a VIP tour of the plant

• $5,000 tailgating package including an outdoor TV system,a portable grill/smoker, six team logo tailgate chairs, a 3,500-watt generator and much more.

• A pair of 2016 season tickets to the football team of the winner’s choice (subject to availability).

The sweepstakes ends on January 3, 2016. To enter and for official rules, simply visit www.CHANNELLOCK.com.

CHANNELLOCK ANNOUNCES ITS BIGGEST GRIDIRON GARAGE GIVEAWAY

HANDIBOT SMART POWER TOOLShopBot Tools, Inc., announces

the production version of theHandibot Smart Power Tool, available later this year and soldexclusively on handibot.com.The Handibot is a portable,

digitally-driven fabrication tool.Cut, carve, mill and machinewood, MDF, plastics, plexiglas, styrofoams and aluminum.Handibot is a professional

production mill, priced like a hobbyist tool. It enables anyonewith an interest in making-whether

a weekend hobbyist, a solo entre-preneur in his or her garage, or a small-to-midsize company-to pro-totype and produce real productsfrom real materials. ShopBot CEOTed Hall says, “This is the first of anew breed of power tools; powertools with smarts. Conceived as an ‘open innovation’ platform,Handibot has been evolving withcrowd-sourced ideas, developer-version testing, and accessoryinvention-all in a supportiveecosystem of collaborators andenthusiasts.”Handibot's new controls, called

FabMo, are a new way to run digi-tal fabrication tools. “It's our newmotion control system that allowsusers to run the Handibot fromany device wirelessly.” Visitwww.handibot.com.

ONEIDA AIR VIPERSCRAPEROneida Air Systems introduces

their patent-pending Viper Scraper.

Attach this comfortable-gripscraper to your shop vacuum byeither a 1-1/4- or 1-1/2-in. hoseand clean while you scrape. TheViper has reversible tungsten car-bide blades for long lasting dura-bility and is ideal for lead abate-ment, hardwood floor installation,boat refinishing and repair, as well as paint, stucco and texturedceiling removal. Learn more at 1-800-732-4065 or visit www.oneida-air.com. EHT



INSTALL AN INSULATED

BASEMENTFLOOR

Here’s a three-foldapproach to a new basement floor, including aninsulated subfloorsystem, engineeredcork flooring, andeasy-to-install carpetsquares.

Afinished basement can make a great office or family room, but by virtue of being the first living space on the foundation—and oftenbelow grade—special consideration should be given to the type of

flooring used. You learned years ago in science class that heat rises,so basements are naturally cooler than the upper levels of a house.In many cases they are also completely or partially surroundedbelow the earth surface and sitting on a cool concrete slab,which has a tendency to transfer moisture. This storydetails a three-fold approach to a new basement floor,including an insulated subfloor system, engineeredcork flooring, and easy-to-install carpet squares.

CHOICES IN BASEMENT FLOORINGThree critical issues to consider when choosing a

basement include; moisture, warmth and, of course,décor. Basement floor options include tile, laminate, engineered wood and others.Although you may love the look and value of genuine hard-

woods, this type of flooring is generally frowned upon for basementapplications because the humidity level changes too much. As thehumidity changes, so can the hardwood, swelling, flexing, even cuppingand warping. Some sort of subfloor, such as OSB panels or furring strips, is also required to fasten the boards over.For the handsome look of hardwood without the performance issues,

choose laminate or engineered flooring for a basement application. Theseproducts are less expensive than solid hardwoods, and they consist of anengineered wood core that is more stable and resilient when exposed tomoisture than the linear grain of real wood. The material is more expensivethan carpet but usually cheaper than using ceramic tile. The differencebetween laminate and engineered wood flooring is that the engineered ver-sion actually has a layer of solid wood—usually 1/8-inch thick—that is lami-nated to the fiberboard or plywood core. Both types of flooring are installedover a pad and “float,” meaning the floor adheres only to itself, usually withplanks that lock together in a simple tongue-and-groove joint. The floor is

by Matt Weber

BasementFloorEDIT_Layout 1 10/7/15 4:45 PM

not attached to any of the walls,which allows for expansion andcontraction of the material as tem-peratures fluctuate. As a finished surface, wall-to-

wall style carpeting will be thewarmest option, and some of thenewest stain-repellent options doa great job of protecting the fabric.However, there are no stain-proofcarpets and in a high-traffic familyroom, spills and other such acci-dents are bound to happen, andeverything from bubblegum to ripsin the rug can make a mess of car-pet. Moisture is another enemy of

carpet. In fact, we were replacingan old wall-to-wall rug in the base-ment because an unseen leak hadsoaked the carpet and resulted inmold growth.Tile is another option for base-

ments floors, and it offers a widearray of design options as well asthe opportunity for creative instal-lation using accents and bordertiles. However, tile can be expen-sive and although some skillfulDIY’ers can install it, it’s not nearlyas easy a job as a tongue-and-groove option. Tile does a greatjob withstanding moisture, but it’s

very chilly to the feet. Be preparedto always wear shoes on a tiledbasement floor, or else considerinstalling a radiant heat systembeneath the finished surface toadd some extra underfoot comfort.Some other things to consider

include the plane of the founda-tion slab. The basement floor must be very level and smooth forproper laminate and engineeredwood installation. Any dips or highspots will need to be filled, grounddown or otherwise addressed withthe installation of a subfloor.Additionally, ceiling height may be

an issue, because installing athicker floor will place people clos-er to overhead soffits and doorframes. Luckily, ceiling height wasn’t a

concern with the basement shownin this article, but practically every-thing else was. After weighingthese factors, we selected an insu-lated subfloor system from Ovrx,which reduces heat loss and mois-ture transfer from the basementslab, as well as creates a flat, levelsurface for the finished floor. Wefollowed the subfloor with a layerof easy-to-install prefinished cork

flooring from Lumber Liquidators,creating a resilient walking surfacewith a rich, natural appearance.Finally, we added a much-neededsplash of color and underfootwarmth by making an accent rugfrom simple place-and-adhere car-pet pads from Flor. Here’s how theproject unfolded.

INSULATED SUBFLOORINGBecause concrete transfers

moisture, you should never installcarpet or wood directly over thebare slab of a basement; they’llruin in no time. Tile, vinyl and

linoleum flooring can transfer cold temperatures from the basement slab to the room. Onesolution to a dry, warm and com-fortable basement floor is theBarricade Modular Subfloor fromOvrX (www.ovrx.com), specificallydesigned to insulate concretefloors. The system comes in 2-by-2-foot panels that quickly and easilyinstall using a tongue-and-groovesystem, and require no fasteningor gluing. The OSB panels are1.125-inch thick and backed witha layer of closed-cell polystyrene(Styrofoam) insulation, achieving


Start in a corner with a full panel.

Make sure the slab is level.


BASEMENTFLOOR


an R value of 3.2 so walls feel asmuch as 15 degrees warmer. Therecessed channels formed in theStyrofoam allow air to flow under-neath the subfloor. The airspacefunctions as a layer of insulationbetween the cold, moist concreteand the finished floor. Plus, thepanels are engineered to allowuniform expansion and contractionwith changes in temperature andhumidity. The system provides aprotective barrier against air andwater infiltration, intrusion fromfoundation leaks, sump pump fail-ures and burst pipes, as well asextreme hot and cold temperaturetransfer through the floors.

To install, first remove the oldfinished floor and any baseboardsor floor trim. Prepare a level slabsurface, and then lay a row of panels seam-to-seam, tappingtogether the tongue-and-groovejoints with a hammer and woodblock. I placed 3/8-inch plywoodspacer blocks between the sub-floor panels and the walls to allow for expansion. Slight dips

in the floor can be shimmed with slips of scrap foam insulation(I used some old flooring under-layment that was laying around my workshop).

You’ll probably have to cut thefinal panel to fit against the wall atthe end of the row. You can thenuse the scrap piece to begin thesecond row. Alternate the size ofthe first panel in each row from

whole panel to partial panel, whichstaggers the tongue-and-groovejoints for a stronger connection.

PREFINISHED CORKFLOORING

Cork flooring feels and looksmuch like the same cork that bot-tles your wine. It has a naturallyorganic cellular appearance andprovides a cushioned, forgiving

Join the tongue-and-groove subfloorpanels with a hammer and block.

Slight dips in the floor can beshimmed with foam insulation.

The last panel of each row willprobably have to be cut to size.



floor surface for a comfortablewalkway. Cork is naturally durableand provides some extra acousti-cal and thermal insulation. TheLisbon Cork panels from LumberLiquidators, shown here (www.lum-berliquidators.com), come with apre-applied finish that makes thesurface resistant to moisture andeasy to maintain.

For the green-minded home-owner, another selling point ofcork is the environmentally friend-ly nature of cork production. Corkis made by harvesting the outerbark of a Mediterranean treecalled the Cork Oak that growsmainly in Portugal and Spain. Thebark is stripped in such a way thatit does not kill the tree. Only thebark is extracted, the tree staysalive, and a new layer of corkregrows, making it a renewableresource. The Lisbon Cork floating floor

should be laid on a clean, stable,flat, smooth and dry surface, andour subfloor system provided forthis nicely. Without a subfloor,slopes of more than 1/4-inch over 6 feet must be leveled, plusyou’ll need to install a moisture

barrier before laying the boards.With any sort of engineered tongue-and-groove floor, it’s generally best to store the exposed planksindoors 48 hours before installingso they acclimate to the room’stemperature.Measure the room to calculate

the width of the last row. If thelast row will be less than 3 incheswide, then use a table saw to ripthe planks of the first row to anarrower width, which will trans-late to a thicker width for the lastrow. Even if you keep a full-width

first row, you should still rip off the exposed tongue of the firstrow. All exposed tongues shouldbe removed from the perimeter of the wall, including the ends of the boards that begin each row.Also, measure to determine if

the walls are square. The walls inthis basement were not, whichmeant I had to rip certain boards to a smaller width than others tofollow a slight curve in the wall.Start in one corner of the room

and install the panels from left toright, with the tongue sides facingthe walls. Place 3/8-inch spacersagainst the wall along the perime-ter of the entire floor to allow forexpansion. The joints of the pan-els connect in tongue-and-groovestyle, but unlike the subfloor, thecork panels must be tilted toinsert the tongue into the otherpanel’s mating groove. Join thelong seam first, if possible. Tiltdownward to pull the joint togeth-er, and then tap with a hammerand rubber block to lock it closed. Be careful with the block,

because the soft cork materialcan be damaged by the hammerblows. Rather than hit the corkedge of the panel, use a notchedblock that misses the cork andonly connects with the engineeredwood core of the panel. A scrapblock of mating cork flooring canalso serve as a hammer block. When beginning the second

row, begin with a partial panelthat staggers the joint at least sixinches away from the precedingrow. Repeat this pattern for thefollowing rows so there is always a6-inch minimum setback betweenthe seams of adjoining rows. Atable saw can make most of therips and cross-cuts, although a jigsaw is a handy tool for makingsmall cuts and notches in thefloor boards.


A table saw or handheld circ sawwill work well for cutting the sub-floor panels.

Begin every other row of subfloor-ing with a partial panel to staggerthe joints.


BASEMENTFLOOR


PhaseAmaticFP_Layout 1 10/7/15 5:07 PM

To pass pipes and other obsta-cles through the floor, use a pencil to trace the cut location.Find the center point and drill ahole slightly larger than theobstruction. Then, saw the panelin two parts so the cut passesthrough the center of the drilledhole. Install the floor panel onepiece at a time, re-assembling itaround the obstacle. Occasionally, you’ll have to

undercut a door jamb; use a flush-cut saw, an oscillating tool oreven a hammer and sharp woodchisel. Doors will also need to betrimmed, so pop them off a hingeand onto a couple of sawhorses. Ahandheld circ saw and a home-made saw guide work well for this.Complete the field of the floor,

ripping the last row to width andclosing the final T&G joints bypulling the panels away from thewall with a hammer and pull baror, even better, a Lam-hammer

(www.lam-hammer.com). Floorslarger than 27 feet will require anexpansion gap, and you’ll need T-molding to hide the expansiongap. Once the floor is installed,hide the transition around theroom edges with baseboard trimand/or quarter-round.

MODULAR CARPET TILESThe final touch to the basement

floor was an area rug comprised ofmodular carpet tiles from Flor Inc.(www.flor.com). These 50-centime-ter squares are available in a hugearray of colors and styles. Wechose striped tiles in a multi-colorpattern to brighten the décor andadd warmth and softness to thefloor. These can be used for wall-to-wall carpeting or to accent cer-tain areas of the floor. An addedbenefit is that they’re portable. If you want to move the carpet to another room or another home,just pull up the squares and re-install. And, if a square succumbsto a nasty spill, just replace thatsingle square rather than theentire rug. Installation couldn’t be simpler.

Just measure the floor to deter-mine the quantity of tiles needed.Consider the use of patterns,accent colors and border tiles.Carpet squares give you all thecreative design freedom of ceram-ic tile, only they’re much easier toinstall. Lay the tiles on the floorwith their seams butted together.In some cases it may help to snapa chalk line to keep the layoutsquare with the walls. When you’re

A jigsaw can cut notches in thepanels to fit obstructions.

A hammer and pull bar helps toinstall the last panel in a row.

Rip the tongues off the cork panelswhere they meet the wall.

Cork features a natural cellularappearance with rich character.



BASEMENTFLOOR


EmersonFP_Layout 1 10/7/15 5:05 PM


The tongue-and-groove joints of thecork floor connect easily.

The 1x3’ size ofthe cork planksmeans the floorinstalls quicklybecause withlarger planks,

there are fewerto install.

Unless you’re bound and determined to replace your existing baseboard trim witha new size or style, there’s no reason to throw out the old woodwork when updating afloor. When you install the trim, you’re going to invest labor in either new trim carpen-try or in repairing the old trim. If you choose to repair the old stuff, you can save abundle on materials costs and avoid measuring, cutting and coping new boards. Hereare some tips.

Keep the walls and trim as intact as possible during removal.Before removing baseboards or quarter-round, always score thejoint with a razor so dried caulk or paint doesn’t cause a rip in thefinish when you pull away the trim. Next, use a putty knife to openthe seam, and then work a pry bar behind the trim piece all theway down to the sill plate inside the wall. Lever the pry baragainst the 2-by-4 sill plate and flush with the floor, not abovethe plate where the end of the pry bar could pierce the wall-board at the stud cavity or break the base trim. Pry just enoughto extract the baseboard nails loose from the wall, and thenpound the board back in place to push the nail heads out.Then, pull all nails, working down the length of the baseboard.Pay attention to coped joints at the corners, which can pinchone baseboard behind another. Always remove the coped baseboard first.

As you remove the base trim, label the back of each piece for reassembly, i.e. “leftwall, 1st piece,” “Rear wall, 2nd piece,” etc., otherwise you’ll have a jigsaw puzzle tofigure out when reinstalling.

Use a quality wood glue to repair any breakage in the wood. I usually squeeze in aliberal amount of adhesive and wrap the joint tightly with painter’s tape until it dries.Use a color-matched putty to fill nail holes and repair surface damage. I chose whiteputty to match my white painted baseboards. Allow the glue and putty to completelycure, and then sand the baseboards smooth before repainting and nailing back inplace. Caulk it, and you’re good to go.

RECYCLE YOUR TRIM AND SAVE


BASEMENTFLOOR

satisfied with the layout, use thesupplied adhesive discs, calledFlor Dots, to anchor the squarestogether. Peel off the backing andplace the disc, adhesive-side up,at the intersection of four tiles to adhere to the four corners and hold them together. Do thesame around the perimeter of the carpet. For wall-to-wall applications or

any situation where the carpet

tiles need to be cut, use a metalstraight edge to guide a sharp carpet knife. Just score the flex-ible backing of the tile a few times to get a nice, clean cut.

TIME FOR FUNAfter we reinstalled the base-

boards—which took a lot of puttying, sanding and painting but saved a lot of materialexpense and trim carpentry—we had a brand new basementfloor. And, it addressed the keyconsiderations for basement living; insulation and moistureprotection, as well as warmth,comfort and good looks. We then topped it off with new couches, a pool table and a big screen TV, ready and wait-ing for next football season. EHT



Adhesive discs, included with the carpet squares, areall that’s required to hold the Flor tiles in place.

An oscillating tool like the RockwellSoniCrafter makes quick work ofundercutting door jambs to allowclearance for the new floor.

A Lam-Hammer is even faster touse than a hammer and pull bar.

Talk about easy—modular carpettiles couldn’t be simpler to install.

The cork is easiest to install by connecting the long joints first.


Roofing installation is a costlyand complicated project,which is why it makes sense

for homeowners to stretch theirimprovement dollars by maintain-ing their existing asphalt shinglesto the best of their abilities. Theroof is the primary weather barrierof the home—a place where dam-age should never go unaddressed.The forces of harsh weather andultraviolet rays will inevitably wearthe roof to the point of requiringreplacement, but homeowners canconduct some basic upkeep proce-dures that will help keep out therain a little longer.

SHINGLE REPAIRDo-it-yourselfers who aren’t

afraid of heights can make simple but important repairs

to loose shingles and flashing.Asphalt shingles are the mostwidely used roofing material in res-idential construction, accountingfor roughly 80 percent of the U.S.market. Today’s asphalt roofinggreatly outperforms the shinglesavailable 30 years ago, but stillcosts significantly less than higher-priced rivals (including tile, wood,cedar, slate and metal). Typically,very little maintenance is required;but that does mean some.After a couple of decades, or

after severe storms, you’ll need toinspect an asphalt roof for signs ofdeterioration. The most obviousperpetrator is a roof leak, indicat-ed by water stains or wet areas in the attic. In some cases thesecan be patched, but in the case of a serious leak you may need to

re-roof. Remember that whentracking the source of a leak, oncethe water has penetrated the roofit often will flow down the ceilingor framing before dripping ontothe ceiling below. So evidence of aleak on the ceiling can be mislead-ing about where it originates onthe exterior of the house. If youhave access to the attic, firstlocate the entry point of the leakfrom inside the house before try-ing to address it at the roof level. Also, excessive loose mineral

granules in the gutter or barespots on the shingles are evidencethat the asphalt is deteriorating.Sunlight and freeze/thaw cyclescan weaken the adhesive thatholds the granules to the roofingmaterial, which will eventuallyrequire replacement or recover-ing. Shingles also tend to crack or curl from sun exposure, andwind can blow them off the roof.Repair loose or buckled shingles

with roofing cement. The idea is toprevent simple loose shingles anddog-eared corners from catching astrong wind and pulling away fromthe roof and opening a major gapin the building envelope. You canpick up roofing cement/sealant incaulk-type tubes for use in a caulk-ing gun. Make sure the product islabeled for your intended applica-tion. Also, roofing cement can beused to patch cracks or minorbreakage in the shingles. Whileasphalt roofs are designed for years of low-maintenance performance, eventually—hopefully15 to 20 years—it will need to bere-shingled. If necessary to replace a shin-

gle, tear off the uppermost dam-aged shingle by grabbing its sides

By Matt Weber


Simple Repairs for Asphalt RoofsAdd life to your shingles.

SKILL SAVVY

SkillSavvyRoofEDIT_Layout 1 10/7/15 4:50 PM

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and pulling it loose. Do the sameto the other damaged shinglesbeneath it. Use a pry bar to removethe old roofing nails. Patch anyholes with roofing cement. Reinstallnew shingles using the manufac-turer’s standard shingle-replace-ment procedures, and workingtoward the upper courses (see diagram for typical nail/sealantapplication). When you reach thetop course, coat the top of the lastshingle above the seal line withroofing cement. Insert the lastshingle beneath the overlappingshingle. It may help to drive a cou-ple of nails to anchor the installa-tion. Bear in mind that the headsof roofing nails should be fastenedflush to the roofing material butnot penetrate through the shingle.

ROOF PENETRATIONSKeep an eye on roofing pene-

trations such as flashing aroundpipes and skylights, which areprime candidates for leaks. Forloose flashing, refresh the sealwith new roofing cement. Many of these metal roofing fix-

tures, such as HVAC pipes, vents,

etc., are prone to rust. Not onlycan these be unsightly detractorsof your home’s curb appeal, but if left unchecked the metal cancompletely corrode through thematerial and cause structuralproblems. A handheld wire brushis a good tool to scrub away rustfrom roof fixtures. Or, boost yourabrasive power by chucking a circular wire brush into an electricdrill. Knock off all the reddishbrown spots and wipe away theloose dust. Then, apply oil-based metal primer to the fixture. Rust-Oleum, for example, is a qualitymetal primer that helps protectmetal and is available in a widevariety of colors to complementcommon roofing tones (www.rus-toleum.com). Always use dropcloths when painting at the rooflevel to avoid accidental spills thatcan be very apparent on the roofsurface.

CLEANING ANDPREVENTIONOne common complaint about

aging roofs is the presence ofblack streaks or stains that maydevelop over time. The dark streaksare usually algae, and without theright chemicals, they can be diffi-cult to address. Whereas a bleachor chlorine-based solution appliedwith non-pressure methods will

kill black algae and generally rid the stains with the rinse phase,this method alone won’t preventthe algae from returning in just a few months.Another option is to use a

sodium hydroxide-based productlike Stainhandler from SavetimeCorporation (www.stainhandler.com).Stainhandler is a biodegradableproduct and when properly mixedand applied according to direc-tions it will not harm your plants.The product is sold in a concen-trated formula, which the userdilutes and applies with a pump-up type of garden sprayer. EHTrecommends avoiding the use of apressure-washer when working onroof shingles, because too stronga stream can blast holes in theasphalt. The entire surface shouldbe sprayed to avoid streaking.Allow the product to work for fif-teen minutes and then rinse offthe roof with a garden hose. To prevent future staining for

up to 20 years, homeowners canfollow the cleaning procedure byinstalling zinc strips at the ridgeline of the roof. With this system,when rain flows over the zinc,harmless zinc oxide is created.The invisible zinc oxide then coatsthe roof surface and inhibits thegrowth of fungus, moss and algae.Zinc strips are available from a


Excessive mineral granules in thegutter can be an indication ofwear on asphalt roof shingles.


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variety of manufacturers and canbe used on new or existing roofs.

To install zinc strips, start ateither end of the roof peak andinstall a continuous row under the

ridgeline. Apply roofing cementalong the sealant edge and slidethe strip beneath the shingle,leaving the lower half exposed totreat the rainwater. Nails are not

required, although there should be a 1/8-inch gap left between the strips to allow for thermalexpansion.

From simple repairs to preven-tive maintenance, these simpleprocedures for asphalt roofsamount to no more than a week-end’s worth of work, but they canpay off greatly in the long run ofyour roof’s performance.

SKILL SAVVY

EHT


Sand away rust on metal roof fixtures and coat with an oil-basedmetal primer.

Zinc strips installed over asphaltshingles can protect the rooffrom algae stains.


If your asphalt shingles arebeyond repair and recovery, it maybe time to pull the plug on them andinstall a new roof. Replacementshingles are always an option, butit’s one of many. Here are a fewnotable products that help roundout the world of roofing.

BELLAFORTÉ SYNTHETIC TILES

The snap-fit, self-locatingBellaforté synthetic roofing tilesfrom DaVinci Roofscapes aredesigned to meet the higheststandards for wind, fire andimpact. Noted for their long-termlow maintenance aspects and

50-year warranty, Bellaforté tiles have achieved some of thestrictest test ratings in the coun-try. Bellaforté slate roofing tilesinclude an integrated rain gutter,leading edge tab and rain dam, inan authentic 12-inch slate profile.Bellaforté tiles use 20 percentless material than traditional syn-thetic and natural slate shingles,saving resources and reducing thetile weight, installation time andlandfill load due to reduced con-struction waste. Learn more atwww.davinciroofscapes.com.

HEATIZON ROOF DEICING

ZMesh from Heatizon is adurable, low-voltage bronze screenheating element that serves as along-term solution for winter ice

and snow problems on roofs. ZMeshis installed under non-conductive(non-metal) roofing surfaces includ-

ing asphalt, slate, cedar shake shin-gles, as well as membrane roofs. Itcan be nailed and stapled, providing


ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE


ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

an easy installation for invisibleprotection that lasts. The heatingelements carry a 25-year warranty.For gutter deicing, GutterMelt fea-tures a self-regulating cable with a 10-year warranty, and can beinstalled in gutters, downspouts,along eaves and in valleys. Learnmore at www.heatizon.com.

METAL ROOFING WHOLESALERSMetal Roofing Wholesalers is a

low-cost supplier of quality metalroofing products at competitive

prices. Products include the mosteconomical and widely used 3-footwide roofing panels (custom cut toany length per your specifications);metal shakes, Mexican tile, metalslate and many other styles, allwith a baked-on enamel coatingusing the most advanced coatingsystems on the market today foryears of durability. Also available aredifferent styles of standing-seampanels for both residential and commercial use. Metal RoofingWholesalers sells roofing productsnationwide and ships direct to the consumer from one of manymanufacturing facilities locatedthroughout the country. Learnmore at www.metalroofing-wholesalers.com.

HENRY REFLECTIVE ROOF COATING

For detached garages, work-shops, warehouses, sheds and commercial buildings, the rightcoating for a roof can make a bigdifference in heat reflection. Anuncoated roof can absorb up to 83

percent of the sun's heat and UVrays, while a roof coated with aHenry Cool Roof reflective coatingcan reflect up to 88 percent of thesun's heat and UV rays. An elas-tomeric coating such as Henry’sSolar-Flex can be applied by brush,roller or spray to reflect the sun’sheat and UV rays while reducingthe building’s air-conditioningcosts. Learn more atwww.henry.com.


SKILL SAVVY


EngineerSupplyFP_Layout 1 10/7/15 5:06 PM

PROJECT NEXT

Exterior wood trim is often acandidate for rot, especially ifit’s not properly sealed and

maintained. Window sills and doorcasings provide an area for waterto accumulate and work its blackmagic on the wood fibers. Longago hardwoods were used for exterior trim, which would last for decades if painted and main-tained. These days, the widelyavailable softwood trims can show signs of rot within 5 years. Plastics do not rot. So, it only

made sense when addressingsome recent rot problems that Ireplace the damaged wood withPVC or urethane—two materialsthat hold up to water. Replacingthe trim with plastic rather than

wood, and properly sealing thesurrounding area, ensured that Iwouldn’t be repairing the sameproblem in just a few years.

THE BRICK MOULD HAS MOLDEDThe wood trim surrounding my

workshop door was in especiallybad shape. Over the years, thebrick mould and door casing hadturned shades of gray, black andgreen, indicating mold, mildewand rot. With a little nudge from a pry bar, the wood pulled away in soft, damp chunks with nostructural integrity to speak of.Not good.My first move was to remove the

problem area. The brick mould

replacement was fairly straightfor-ward. I simply pried away the oldtrim to replace it with urethanebrick mould of the same size and profile. The urethane brickmould is manufactured by Fypon(www.fypon.com), a company thatoffers a wide variety of synthetictrim materials that stand up to the outdoor elements. The door casing repair was

more complicated. I didn’t need to replace the entire door, but itsprehung casing was just as rottednear the bottom of the door as thebrick mould. So, I surgically cutout the offending area much like Iimagine a doctor removes a tumor—carefully. I used a mini circularsaw to cut out a lower chunk ofthe rotted casing on each side ofthe door. I was careful to steer

To Rot or NotReplacing Rotted Wood with Synthetic Trim

By Matt Weber


The wooden door casing and brickmould showed severe rot.

ProjectNextRotEDIT_Layout 1 10/7/15 4:49 PM

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The soft, rotted wood pried off easily.

I completely cut away the rotted portion all the down to solid framing.

PROJECT NEXT


Most exterior wood trim products are made of white or yellow pine. These types of wood will naturally absorb water, soif the trim is improperly installed then it will be susceptible to rot in just a few a years. The smart way to install wood trimis to apply a primer coat and a top coat of paint to the entire trim piece prior to installation, including the back, eachside and the ends. Be sure to paint the finger joints of wood moulding, which are a prime entry point for moisture.Priming and painting helps to seal out water intrusion. Depending on the application, metal flashing may be necessary toprevent contact between surrounding materials, such as brick or stucco, which is porous and absorbs water. Flashingalso diverts water away from the building envelope. Thoroughly caulk and seal all joints, fastener holes, and contactpoints with siding, brick or flashing.

WOOD WILL WORK IF DONE RIGHT

clear of the weather-stripping andnot compromise the integrity of the door frame. A wood chiselhelped me carve out the edgesand corners. To replace the casing, I modi-

fied some 3/4-inch thick solid PVCboards, also available from Fypon.The cool thing about this PVCstock is that it is just as workableas wood—it cuts, routs and millsjust as easily. The PVC stock was-n’t quite as thick as the casing Ihad removed, so I face-nailed twopieces of PVC together to matchthe thickness. One of the pieceshad to be ripped thinner on mytable saw to achieve the rightthickness when coupled with themating piece. I glued and nailedthese two pieces together andclamped them while the adhesiveset. By cutting them to width andlength and gluing them up, I wasfabricating an exact replacement“chunk” of casing to replace thecut-out section.Once dry, I glued and nailed

the piece back into the door sur-round. For this project I was usingKing Kaulk (www.reddevil.com),which doubles as both an adhe-sive and a waterproof sealant—exactly what I need to glue mymaterials and seal the water out-side the door frame. Plus, it’spaintable. I replaced the lower casing on

each side of the door. Once com-plete, I was ready to knock out the brick mould replacement.


In some cases of wood rot, it may not be necessary tocompletely replace the trim to repair the problem. And, sometimes wood rot occurs in parts that cannot be replacedbecause of size, shape, availability or artistic reasons. Inthese circumstances, another approach to solve rot problemscomes in the form of chemical-based repair products. Twoproducts from Abatron, LiquidWood and WoodEpox, canrepair damaged wood in just a few easy steps. They give new life to severely damaged windows, columns, frames, decorative trim and broken furniture.

LiquidWood reinforces, rebuilds and waterproofs wood by hardening after it penetrates the wood fibers. It’s an ideal repair product for rotting sills, frames and floors, and it serves as a primer for the WoodEpox.

WoodEpox is a shrink-free adhesive putty compound thatcan be used in any thickness in structural and decorativeapplications to replace, repair, extend or fill wood or othermaterials. To use, simply clean the wood surface, and brushor pour on the LiquidWood. After the wood hardens, applyand shape the WoodEpox putty to rebuild missing pieces andfill holes. When hard, it can be sanded, stained, painted andnailed. Learn more at www.abatron.com.

THE LIQUID REPAIR FOR WOOD ROT

The stock PVC was thinner than the casing, so I fabricatedreplacement casing by gluingtogether two PVC boards.


This was a simple measure-and-replaceoperation, and I cut the 45-degree miteredcorners on my miter saw. When installing,Fypon recommends applying adhesive to the inside face of the mating corners. I alsoran a thick bead of King Kaulk completelyaround the entire perimeter of the door tosecure the brick mould and divert any water.I tacked the trim in place with an air nailer tohold everything tight while the adhesive set.Once all the trim was replaced, I hit all thesurrounding seams and joints with a quality,paintable sealant and filled nail holes with


Fill all nail holes and caulk theseams for a watertight seal.

I replaced the wood brick mould withurethane brick mould.

High-density polyurethane is the most popular solid-plastic material used for decorative exterior trim, thanks to itsstrength and easy workability. The strength of solid-plastic trim is determined by its material density, and the productsvary. Typically, the higher the density, the higher the cost, but the high-density products offer more dimensional stability,strength and dent-resistance. Manufacturers of urethane products offer both interior and exterior trim, including entrancetrim, window trim, louvers and eave vents, balustrade systems and other decorative millwork.

Another plastic trim material is PVC, which is formed into boards and profiles. The PVC can be routed and shaped withits integral white color consistent throughout the material. PVC trim is less expensive than polyurethane but its surfaceoften requires sanding and painting, whereas urethane trim is usually sold primed and ready to paint or stain. Learnmore at www.fypon.com.

plastic wood filler. When every-thing was dry, I sanded away anyexcess filler, threw on a coat ofprimer/sealer, and followed thatwith a couple of coats of exteriorpaint. And, that did the trick. The

power of plastics withstands therotting power of water, and thedoor is now back in action with a fresh look and a much longerlife expectancy.


PROJECT NEXT

The replacement casing was gluedand nailed in place.

Use exterior adhesive and add flashing if necessary. The brick mouldwas glued and nailed in place

EHT

THE POWER OF PLASTICS


BlueDevilFP_Layout 1 10/7/15 5:04 PM

SPOT LIGHT

Anyone contemplating anenergy-efficient room addi-tion or building their own

home has likely given carefulthought to the insulation. Whichmaterial is best? What thicknessshould be used? Is the R-valuesufficient? But often they ignorethe structural framing, which holdseverything together. It doesn’t matter how good the insulation isif air leaks around it; the designand placement of the studs, joists,headers and other framing mem-bers affects how well the insula-tion can do its job. Framing techniques your grand-

father didn’t know, and your dadmay not have taught you, can helpreduce heating and cooling costs—and use less wood. The trick is to

lay out the framing in ways thathelp eliminate gaps in the insula-tion and that lessen the number of thermal bridges through theframing members. While not difficult to build, these methodsrequire advanced planning. Your

building material dealer may beable to assist with software thatcan turn a basic home plan intodetailed drawings showing energy-efficient framing.

ADVANCED FRAMINGMETHODSThe National Association of

Home Builders (NAHB) developedso-called “advanced framing”methods (also known as “optimumvalue engineering” or OVE) severaldecades ago. Don’t let the namesfrighten you. The practices are relatively straightforward, just different from how framing is traditionally constructed. Theyinclude(Figure 1):

• 2 x 6 studs at 24-inch on-center (OC) spacing

• Two-stud corners• Ladder blocking at wall junctions

• Double rim board and insulat-ing foam in lieu of headers

• In-line framing• Single top plate• Minimal trimmers or jack studsAs an example of the potential


Tight and Outta SightFrame a New Home or Addition for Energy Efficiency

Figure 1

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benefits of these methods, iLevelby Weyerhaeuser built a 24-inchOC demonstration wall with 2 x 6 studs that achieved an 86-percent increase in insulationvolume and a 58-percent increasein the wall’s overall R-value, com-pared to a traditional 2 x 4 wall at16-inch OC spacing. Further, thedemonstration wall used 8 percentless wood volume. The U.S. Dept.of Energy estimates that advancedframing can reduce annual heatingand cooling costs up to 5 percent,and for a 2,400-square-foot house,save up to $1,000 in materials.

2 X 6 STUDS AT 24-INCH OC SPACINGIncreasing stud spacing from the

standard 16 inches OC to 24 inch-es increases the overall insulationin the wall cavity, as well asreduces the thermal bridgesthrough the wood since fewersticks are involved. Interestingly,the use of 2 x 6’s at 24 inches OCversus 2 x 4’s at 16 inches on cen-ter provides the necessary structur-al support using a similar volumeof framing material. Yet, the widerspacing enables fewer interrup-tions in the insulation, while thedeeper studs allow for two moreinches of insulation between theoutside and inside walls.As with all advanced framing

techniques, be sure to check localcode requirements. In someinstances, wider stud spacing isnot allowed in areas with highwinds or earthquakes. Your buildingmaterial dealer or manufacturermay be able to assist with alternativeframing approaches, such as pre-fab-ricated wood shear braces that canprovide the necessary bracing whilemaintaining a narrow footprint with-in the wall.

TWO-STUD CORNERSCorners typically involve three

studs set back-to-back to create

nailing points for the exteriorsheathing or siding and interiordrywall (Figure 2). However, usingtwo studs placed perpendicular to

one another provides the neces-sary structural support, whileenabling attachment of the sheath-ing (Figures 3 and 4). For the dry-wall, one of the studs provides thenailing point for the material onone wall, and the material for theintersecting wall is attached with adrywall clip. This approach allowsinsulation to penetrate farther intothe corner, instead of leaving gapsand a large thermal bridge createdby multiple studs. Plus, it saves onmaterial by eliminating one extrastud at each corner.

LADDER BLOCKING ATWALL JUNCTIONSWhere interior and exterior walls

meet at “T” intersections, extrastuds are usually added to providea nailing surface to join the walls(Figures 5 & 6). The drawback isthis creates narrow spaces alongthe exterior wall that are difficult toinsulate effectively. The gaps areeither too thin to place insulationin, providing a clear path for air toleak from the home, or require theinsulation to be cut to a narrowerwidth, which creates voids. As withthree-stud corners, the additionalstuds on the exterior wall where itconnects to the interior wall add tothe thermal bridging.An effective solution is installing

horizontal lumber pieces betweenstuds to provide the attachmentpoint for the intersecting wall,resulting in a “ladder”-like appear-ance (Figures 7 and 8). Scrap lum-ber can be used for this blocking,helping reduce overall materialcosts and using pieces that wouldotherwise end up in the dumpster.This approach allows the full

width of insulation to be placedbetween the exterior wall studs.This is particularly effective if 2 x 6 studs are used in the exteriorwall since there are still severalinches of depth behind the ladderblocking for insulation.


SPOT LIGHT

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4


DOUBLE RIM BOARD AND INSULATING FOAM IN LIEU OF HEADERSIn some cases, door and

window headers may not be struc-turally necessary, especially forinterior, non-load-bearing walls.They may also be able to be sizedsmaller, or removed in some exte-rior walls. These are difficult judg-ments and calculations to make,but your building material dealermay have access to structuralframe design software that candetermine if a header is neededand avoid over-sizing it, whileensuring a sound structure. If indoubt, consult a structural engineer.Addressing headers in exterior

walls is important because theycreate a large thermal bridge forheat to escape. You may be ableto eliminate headers by using adouble thickness of rim boardalong the top of the wall (Figure9). Adding 1/2-inch-thick insulat-ing foam to the outside face of the rim provides an effective andsimple barrier against heat gainand loss. Laminated strand lum-ber (LSL) rim board such asTimberStrand LSL works well forsuch applications since it is strong,dimensionally stable and warp-resistant.An added benefit is that without

a header, there is additional spacefor insulation above the window ordoor.

IN-LINE FRAMINGAlso called “stack framing,” in-

line framing is a building methodwhere studs, roof trusses and floorjoists are all aligned at the samespacing. Because loads transferdirectly downward from member to member, this can help reduceor eliminate headers and othermaterials (see “single top plate”discussion below for one such efficiency).An added benefit for pride of

craftsmanship is that the fram-ing looks more orderly and wellplanned. Of course it will soon becovered up by exterior and interiorfinishes, but you will know youhave done a good job inside andout.

Another effective practice ismodular construction in which the entire addition or home isdesigned to 2-foot increments.Sizing the structure to match theframing member size helps elimi-nate scrap from all types of framingmembers and sheathing stock andcan be an effective way to helpreduce material costs.

SINGLE TOP PLATEIf in-line framing is used, it may

be structurally sufficient to useone, instead of two, top plates.The reason is that the loads fromthe roof members go straightdown through the top plate intothe wall studs. In essence, the topplate becomes a transfer point for the load, instead of a primary car-rying member. As with headers,this is another instance wherestructural frame design softwarecan help determine what is struc-turally appropriate. Be sure to consult code requirements forattaching the top plate at joints,corners and wall intersections toensure lateral load transferthrough the wall lines.

MINIMAL TRIMMERS OR JACK STUDSJack studs/cripple studs typical-

ly are not necessary when headersare not used, which helps reducematerials and thermal bridges.The challenge can be a narrowernailing surface for siding and trim.If the nailable area is too small, acompromise can be to add a 2 x 2nailing block (scrap wood workswell) to the outside edge of thewindow or door opening.

PLAN CAREFULLY FORENERGY EFFICIENCYBuilding an energy-efficient

home or addition starts on theinside. Carefully planning the framing and insulation can help


Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 5


provide a tighter home that cansave up to hundreds of dollars per year in heating and coolingcosts. Plus, advanced framing

techniques can help reduce mate-rial costs as well as dumpster feessince less wood is needed overalland because scrap can be used inplaces such as ladder blocking.

As with any project where structur-al design or construction is involved,consult a qualified design profession-al or engineer, and comply with allapplicable building codes.

To get started, contact yourbuilding material dealer or fram-ing product manufacturer for information on the design toolsand support they offer.

Editor’s Note: Gregg Shea is the division technical supportmanager and John Stewart is

a structural frame specialist for iLevel by Weyerhaeuser. iLevel offers a range of structuralframing materials, technical support and software, includingJavelin® design software.www.iLevel.com, 888-453-8358.


SPOT LIGHT

Figure 8

Figure 9

An Extreme How-To Blog reader posed a good question regarding drywall installation over 24-inch stud spacing, as suggested in this article: Are there any important considerations of which DIY’ers should be made aware when hanging panels on studs spaced greater than 16 inches?

The answer is “maybe.” You may have to upgrade the thickness of your drywall panels.Steer clear of 3/8-inch drywall and thinner panels in these applications to avoid sagging.Half-inch drywall can be installed on 24-inch OC framing, unless the panels are hung withtheir long edges parallel to the ceiling joints. Like 1/2-inch drywall, 5/8-inch thick drywallcan be hung on 24-inch stud centers unless it is hung horizontally. The extra thicknessimproves resistance to sagging and absorbs more sound. In some areas, 5/8-inch drywall is required because of its superior fire resistance.

Check out the EHT Blog at http://blog.extremehowto.com.

DRYWALL DECISIONS

If advanced framing offers greater energy efficiency and reduced materials, you may ask why it is taking decadesfor it to be adopted. The primary reason is builders know and trust the old methods. They have been passed downfrom generation to generation, and they work. With fewer sticks used in advanced framing, there is an obvious visibledifference, which can create the perception that the home is not as stable. In reality, much of traditional framing isredundant, but you can’t start removing materials without due consideration. Structural frame design software canprovide the peace of mind that the home is adequately designed for all necessary loads, while providing a straightfor-ward way to implement advanced framing.

Fortunately, you do not need to be a software expert to make use of these tools. A design technician at your build-ing material dealer can take basic plans or sketches and work up a detailed framing plan showing the placement ofevery member. They can provide plan printouts and material lists, as well as show you on screen a 3-D rendering thatallows viewing of the frame from all angles. These plans can be shared with your building design professional forreview and approval.

In addition to supporting advanced framing techniques, programs such as iLevel Javelin design software enabledesigners to solve potential building conflicts before construction begins. This helps eliminate rework in the field whenyou discover problems like a misplaced drop beam or column that is too short. The software allows for design of walls,floors and roofs as an integrated system, and accurately tracks gravity (vertical) loads from the ridge to the sill plate tohelp ensure a strong and stable structure.

The program also provides the flexibility to meet local building requirements and practices, as well as evolving stan-dards. For example, in 2011 the U.S. Dept. of Energy (DOE) is scheduled to release Energy Star for Homes Version 3,which includes requirements for advanced framing (applicable to projects seeking an Energy Star rating). Designerscan readily incorporate these and other optional or mandated standards.

PLANNING FRAMING WITH SOFTWARE

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