eyewitness travel

8/14/2019 Eyewitness Travel

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I

II Exploring Anchorage

The historic clownlou,r-r :rrcu uncl the olclcrneighborhoocls ol Srlrrgglcr-'s (lrvc :rncl'1-umag:un Iirlnt tltt, t.ort' ol Anc.hor-:rge .The nt:rir-r sielrts ol illl(,rc:;I. inclLrrling thcltth Arrcnrrr"l'ltt':rtt'r'. lk'solrrtion Perl


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11

ALASKA AREA BY AREA

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Turnagain Arm Tour oThe curious name of the 5O-mile (80-krn) long fjorclknown as lurnagain Arm is tl-rought to have beenbestorvecl lry explor.er Caprain.Ja;es Cook in 177g.FIe was fbrcecl to "tur.n :rgair-r', eftcr discovering that itwas impossible to navigate .l sea rolrte between CookInlet ancl Prince William Souncl. Tocl:ry, a drive alongthe Arnt's shc>r'c- rual


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ALASKA AITEA ]]Y AREAExploring the Kenai peninsulaThe v:u'ied lanclscapc ol'tlte Kcnai l)cninsula takes ineveryhing fi'orn flot-cls lrncl .qlut'icrs to fbl.csts :rncl muskegKenai fjo|cls Ntrtronlr l I);r r.lt tr.rnl lr ins thc Har-cling lcefielcl,'one of the Ltr.qt'st in tltt' US. 'l'lrc peninstrla alsJf'eaturesthree vct-y tlislinrlivc rrr.llrn :rr-clrs - practical Servard, thebuslling. t ontrrrcrr.iul l(r.nei-solclotna region, ancl liee_spitltetl Ilonrt'r. 'l'ltcsc torvns ltoast some excellentlrttr:r( 1i()ns. inr,lLrcling Scu,arcl's Alaska Sealife Center anclI lorncr"s ( )r't.:rns :rncl Is]anc]s Visitors' Ccnter. as nell :rs,1, ,"r 1 pl:r, ( . l( , sl( )( I( 1l\ on .Ltpl)lir) lur o111s16,,1 lctiviticrlirl tltt,:rrlvt'rrlutrus. thc I{enai River is icleal for raftin!,rrnrl conrlr:rt lishtng, r.i'hile the Rcsurrectio" frns finil liAI:rsli:r's rrrOst Pc>pul:rr mnlti-day hikir.rg route.

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l/ I lO , c.[Resurrection Creek along Resurredion pass Trail. near HopeSIGHTS AT A GLANCETowns and Cities National and State parks itAf L lror l', ,i rr @ r ..,ptJin L, n ,ti \ti.tc ,, .'!:"1.!l!, ,,,:r" ,l,l;i,ll"ll',:,l,P*o -::;:';;::;,^y::,,9,/ on'.cJ,RTdm *--.1'"vlA'Evx'ii;Ilonrcr@ Paftytp111 1{t5@llop O I(enri Narional Vilcilifc "lfti "' "" ,islicn,ri @ Reluge @ HoMllgtffi ."1:r,",st.r,.r.,@ . mcdE .**b!31',"0*''l'' : l:. 1'; Area of Natural Beautv t;ttt !'|.'ttt 't t' *ttl .' uole '" '^,,,,,,.i",, O* htn'ti Rrt er @

' ri'/ I *,lt ',, t t{#i!, *at'' u,rr' I O Tour Seldovia *f ., V':"l l"rrr: @ k$tttlt\ liutt Pd.\.\ rluil p() 'O lndian village ,,' \'srcrlirrr@ p.*c*r"*'t|' . . .' .sr,.rlirtO ,.. _ o .portcraham i st,,uL"tt"t nt1 +.,.Engtish Bay ', rr1i4*r16b,ii{.

GETTTNG ARouND ' I 'r: '. - r' i i. 'It is ('irsi(,sr r() (\l)l()tr rlrc rt.gi.rr rvith an or.qanizcd ' ' Dportlock ']ti" ' t" , t 'toirr rr'lrV r'lrr. l lrr^Scu'rrrrl I ligl[vtry linl


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t42 ALASKA ARF]A BY ARF]A soltTHt-tA s'r' A r. A s x A

Juneau 6rOfien clesclibecl as a linle Srn Fr.ancisco clue to its hillysetting, Alaska's capital is locetc'cl betwecn Mor.tnt.funeau ancl Mount liol)et.ts llong G:rstineeu Channel..foe.funeau ancl Dicl< I{ur.r.is' 1Utj0 cliscovery of golcl inGolcl Cleek rncl .f uncau's strxtc!{ic locutior on tlie routeto the Klonclikc golclfielcls cstal>lishccl its inlpol.tancrernd lecl_to it txliing ovcr thc role of Ahska's capitalfront Sitl


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1. 41 ALASKA AREA BY AREAExploring Beyond JuneauDor,'ntos'n.]une:ru lies between the Coast Range andGastineau Channel, so most of the citv,s resicleniial areas.rrr lorrrrtl on llt(.(,)ast ,'l lrr,.iliturrs l)rr1rgl15 Islrntl. :rqcll as rn lltr''rcnit sidt.r.rllcl* rntl ll,,ng tlt,.,o:rsttl,lu|csl slUrl(lc(l Cllr it r Higlrn:r1 lu tht, northn cst. fltccity bus system extencls onll' as lar as the MenclenhallV;rllc1 lou;,. lrttt uitir I rcntal , Jr. il is plr5ilrlq 16explore the spectacular hinterlancls. Mor.e aclventurousvisitors can join helicopter- tours of the Juneau Iceflelcl.Alaska Brcwing C


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S O 11'I II I,] AS'I AI, A S KA 14116 \T,ASKA A]lJJA R\I ARIiAGlacier Bay National Park oThc 5.000-sq rnilc (13,000 sci lint) areu sur-roundingGLrcicr Ray wrs clesign:rtccl a Natjonal Perk in 1980ancl clecler-ecl a IINFISCO \\brlc1 Ilcrita.qc Sire in 1992.FJistolically.. tlre par-li has scr-vecl lrs en opc-n-air-lubo-r:rtory' Iil- stuclics on the lccolonization of firrrncrlvql.r, i:tlrrl l.rl,l- Ir) l)l.tnts ;lr,l n il,llili. l,'r' r i.ir,,r..(llacier Bav is lrcsl linolr,tr ib1- its ticlc\\.Lttct-glaciersancl clct-p florcls. arrcl is :rlso a popuhr-clestination tirr*ilcllif-e cnthusiasls. lts folests encl :rlpir-re rr-ers atchornc 1o ltclrs ancl mountailt gouts, \\'llle in theslLnrnlef, its lr.ate]rs are alir,c r.r'ttlt ntigrating ltutlp-bach r".halcs. AlthoLrgh nx)st \,isikn.s takc an orgir.tizccl ctuisc, I


8/12

150 AIASKA AREA I]Y AREA-._

AST AI,ASKASkagway oAfter pionecrs George Vashington Cal-nrack. SkookumJin Mason. and Dawson Charlic cliscover.ecl golcl inthe_Klonclike in the late 1890s, steenrboat caitainrWillian Moorc foundccl Skegn,ry as a gateway to thegoltlfir'ltl'. O\(.t tn.r)O{r lr1 rsl)r.t t.ls l,.t:st,rI lhi rlrgft ;nllte lir:l yt;rr. r,.r.l


9/12

Gold Rush Routes oAlong the olcl Gold Rush trail fi.on-r Skagway, threesepatele |outrr link tlrt. 1t,,r.t wit.lr tlrr. intcrior. Themosl fanrorrs is tlrt-Clrill


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164

Denali State Park @' 35 miles (21 5 km) N of Anchorage.Road Map E3. ffi AnchorageFairbanks. ffi Alaska State parksOffice (Wasilla), 745 3975. W tim-lied. ffi www.alaskastateparks.org'l'he majority of travclers clrivepast Denali Srate Pxrk en routeto the better hnown DenaliNational Park (see ppl66 9,effcctively creating tltis park,scluictet charnt. Establishecl in1970. Denali State Prrksprawls over 507 sc1 rniles(1,313 sq km), which is abouthalf the size of Rhorle Island.The park of'lers uncrowdedcsrlrl)gr',Unds. fahuJolr" 5 L ntlrdils. tnd views thrt equ;rlthose of its more renou.ncdneighbor. Denali ViewpointSouth, at Mile 134.7 of theParks Highray, which bisectsthc park, ofitrs the bcst pan-orama of Mount McKinleyelong the roacl system. Thcpark's Kesugi Ridge Trail, achallenging 13- to 35 mile(21 to 56 km) long hihe,fbllows an alpine ridge castof the Parks lJighway, withsuperb mountain ancl giacierviews from beginning to cncl.It is accessed from Little CoalCreek Trailhead at Mile '163.9of thc Parks Hjghway, wirhexits back to the highway viathe Troublesome Creeh,Ermine Hill. or C:rscadc 'Inils.The flora of the park isdominated by white spruceand paper birch, as well :rsrnoss canpion and mountain

ALASKA AREA BY AREA

The enormous concrete tgloo at Mile 188.5 of the parks Highway seruing as a local landmarllvens. The park's r.ariecllandscapc, with valley glaciers:incl grcxt alpine ridgcs, asrvell as rneendering lowlanclstreams and Arctic tuncira.malre it the f'avorecl haltitatof a wicle range of wilcllif'c,inclucling c:rribou, ntoose,be:rrs, wolves, end lynx.Beavers ancl rntLskrats inhaltitthc palk's wet are:rs, n'hileboth marmots and pikas(small rabbirlike mammals)can be seen on treeless hill-sides ancl rocky outcxrps.A fcw sights along the ParksIJighway beyoncl the DcnaliState Park boundary at Mile168.6 also deilancl attention.

Thcse include the ciramaticHurricane Gulch at Mile 174ancl the lgloo at Milc 188.5.Built in the 1970s, this cnormous stftrcture roughly rnarksthe midway point belweenAnchoragc ancl Fairbanks.

Cantwell O2 1 0 miles (340 km) N of Anchorage.Road Map E3. fiil 220.ffi Anchorag+Faibanks.ffi Anchorag+Fairbanks.Tl.ris smali village takes itsname fron the CanttvellIliver. the former narre ofthc Nenana River. This scenicaref, w:ls originally inhabitedby iLinerant Atlnbashan hunters, but the first person tosettle therc e'as trapper OleyNicklie in the eerly 20rh cen-tury. As more people settlccl .there, Cantwell was desig-natecl a federally recognizecltribal communiry. 'l'o.lay, aqllafier of its resiclents arc ofNxtive descent. Cantwcll, witha tbocl shop xnd a morel, is aconvenient refueling stop. Itis aiso the western telninusof thc Denali Flighway.

NO-SEE-UMSThe biting midges hnown as no-see-Lrlls arc the smallest ofthe biting flics. Thcir peskiness quotient often surpassesthat of mosquitocs, as they appcer in swarnN so t'hick thattlrey arc in.rpossible to ignorc. Alaska has 50 mlclge species,of nlrith unly J [r's .rctrrrlll lrirc. The \]ricL) [o,rn.l in rhelrortrl lbrt.srs ol lnrcrior \ltsla. Cttlicuioh,.s.\r//B/i lsrqd (thc

Tiny midges appear in swarmsin the summer

Latin mme appropriately neansblooclsr:cher), raises large itchyu( lts. Jn(l c,rn mrke lifc intolerable from late June throrrghJuly. A DEET$asccl repellantq.ill be effcctive, althoughsorne pcople swear by theAvon Skin So-Soft repellantthet is u'iclely available.For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp247-g and pp261_2

Gakona

wESTERN INTERIOR ALASKA

l)enali HighwayTour o\ trip xcross the fabulously scenic DenaliI lighway is an unfbrgettable expelience. Btrilt inl()57, it was tl're only link between Anchorage andI rt'r'r:rli National Park until the completion of thel':rr-ks Highu'ay in7972. Tlie Alaska Range ntnsrl()nEa its length, offedng spectaclrlar views, andr r rnclra and taiga fofests on the rollte afe home tonroose, caribou, and grizzlies. Except fbr the first.l I miles (14 km) \\rest\vard from Paxson and thelirst couple of miles, the route is gravel thatri[rges fi'om smooth to rou[Jh and rlltted.

TIPS FOR DRIVERSStarti n g poi nt: Paxson.Length: 134 niles (214 km).Accommodation: Tangle Riverlnn, Mile 20 (angle Lakes) w.tangleriverinn.com. GraclousHause, Mile 82 (Susitna Rivel\mw.alaskaone.com/gracious.Stop ping - ofl po nts w ays idesand parking areas along the routeoffer great photo opportunitiT.Note: the highway is closed tatraffic from October ta mid-May.

KEY

Clearwater CreekControlled Use Area @Golci was mined in theClcrn ater Creek areain the errly 20th cen-trLry. Toclay, therc isgood hunting anclfishing available here.

0 km 100o miles

Mclaren Summit @At,1,086 fi (1.226 m),this is Alaska'ssecond highest pass.Thc view north takesin several glaciers,ii inc[]ding Susjtnax


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1.6 6 ALASKA AREA BY ARNA WFSTTR\ T\TtRIOR AIASKA t67Denali National park oAlaska's top attraction, the expansive Denali NationalPark, sprawls across9,420 sq miles (24,395 sqkm) andis larger than the entire state-of New Hampshire. itshighlight is, of cor:rse, the 20,320-ft (6,1951m) MountMcKinley, which dominates the surrounclins landscaoeand is North America's highcsr pe:rk. The plrk is worlcl_renowned for its wilcllife viewing, and visitors canexpecl to sct' I wjtk. vericty of animals. In Lhe strmmerDenali's tunclre.regions explode -irh *ildfl;;;, ;i;i;in Septerlrbcr, they blaze with auturnnal yellows, reds,and ollrngt.s. JLrsr onc road penelrates the har.kcountrv.this single roure, accessible only by the park.s ,h;;i;"buses, crosses open tundra, boggylowlands, andmountain passes to wind up at beautiful ril/onder Lake.

Alaska RailroadThe train is a. conuenientuaJ) to get to tbe parkfromAnch orage or Fairbanks.* t\)lychrome Passl'1,'' llrk RoarJ crosses.four higb passes betueen Riley Creek

t t t tt I l.{/onder Lake. The ouerlook on Polycbrome Pass ofJbrs,t I'tlttrlous uieu across a uildly multicolctred lanclscape.

VISITORS' CHECKLIST1 25 miles (200 km) 5 of Fairbanks.Road Map D3. Tel 683'2294(Park HO,272-7275 (shuttle busand cam pgrou nd reseruations).S rairbanks, then by bus.ffi Denall A/atlonal Park. fr! [mid-May-m id-Sep (weather pern itti ng). Q lfi D enali Visitors'center l\,4ile 1.2, Park Rd. il /ateMay mid-Sep: gam-gpm daily.Wilderness Access Center Mile0.6, Park Road. Tel 683-9274.l) May-mid -S ep : 5a n-Bp nda y Backcountry lnformationCenter Mlle 0.6, Park Road.Q mi d May-n id Se p : 9am-6pm daly www.nps. gov/dena

whitewater Rafting'Ihe Nenr:ma Ritter(sec p172), onthe park's eastent bct.tndary, offersex c iting w b i tew ater raJiing.KEYI CampgroundE Ai6trip&H Visitor ifformation- Highway

* Wonder LakeWonder Lake, at tht'enr.l ioJ'thepark's shuute I :route, affords one of tly'e .i:,finest uieus qf Mount j ,,.:McKinley. Visitorsfincl excellent sublueben y pickingarounrJ tbe lake ,camp,ground ( ,,,,u,,

EXPLORING THE PARKVith a full day, ir is posslble to take an early morningshuttle bus to Wonder Lake and still have an hour or-fwoto explore on foot before catching the last bus back. Aslong as no wildlife is visible in the area, day hikers can getoff the bus wherever rhey like and flag clown a later bui _

requires a pernrit from the Backcountry Information Ccnrer_1 ;t.

il rcy ilKF dilu UJg uOWn a tater DUs 1\ \_ \ \ '-S*back on a space-available basts. some of th. fir"ria"f f.,if. .N.*=\ .,_,2 rty,ii&ing is lound rrotrnd rhc *ire ol fie Eiel.on Virirorr' Center.rr\ \0"-.{ . I 4


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168 ATASKA AITEA BY AITl,]A \i/ES'IERN INTERIOR AI,ASKA 169Exploring Denali National parkMost srunmer visitol.s to Alaska have Denali NationalPark on thcir itineraries, so a smooth visit requires pre_booking ancl advance planning. hr tJ.re.fune ti, a"gi,ripe:rk se:rson. it is not Lrncommon to havc to wait #veralclays fbr shuttle tickets or campsite bookings. por hikeis,the park is clivicled into .:i3 bai-kcor',rlt.y .,n'it., .o.h ,riwhich acconnroclates one group pcr.nlght. Backcountlypermits cannot be ..r.-..i, so aicess to high clemandLrnits cen reqlire long waits. 'lb get to the riiost appeal,ing pafis of_the park, thosc without bookings slioulclstop ofl at the Wilderness Access Center to'organizelhrir risit. \r,tc th rt no pl.ir.ilt,vrlritlL,s Jrc.rlirrqctl ontire Denrli Nrrion:rl l,.rr.k R,,:rtl lr,.yontl srr.rgc Rivcr,

Denali National parkHeadquarters AreaPO Box 9, Denali Natiora park.ret683-22e4 ffiffiffib]The Park Heeclquartcrs area,near tlte ntain entnnce at thceastern encl oi the palk, is anccess:rry skrp fbr all visitors.Arouncl tlte Den:rli Visil()rs,Center, nhich hes en information clesk, there is a generalstofe, a resatrrant, a bookshop, a gas station, shon'ers,and lockers. A mile (1.6 hrl)alvay, the \(ilclerness AccessCenter hanclles shuttle bustickets encl clmpsite rcsen:rtions, l,hile next door. theBa ckcountry InfortnirticnCenter issncs tiee back-cotLntll,, pc-rDits. Also w.onha visit are thc sled cbg kcnnels, accessiblc by free slltttlebus froru the Denali Visit(n.s,Center. Since the i920s. ran-gcrs have usecl ciogslecls topatrol the park. The clogs areso poprLlar that rangcrs nou.offcr rnushing clelnonstrationsin the sLunmer.

The enttxnce area llso hassomc smooth, rvc)l managecitr:rils. 'I'he l.lock Crcch :rnclMount IIcaly C)verlook ltrilsbolh r-tl

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