FIXED AXLE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove rear wheel assembly, brake, and swingarm. Remove stock pulley from the wheel. 2. Jack up, block and secure Bike frame at approximate ride height (about 4 or 5 inches). 3. Install modified swingarm with mounting brackets (for details on swingarm modification refer to Swingarm /Mounting

Bracket Installation guide)4. Uncrate the Axle assembly. Separate the axle halves from the differential by removing the eight 1/2" bolts threaded

through the steel H-Plates into the four 11-1/4" spacer bars noting the position and fitment of brackets/bars/bolts. NOTE: Two 7/16 “ mounting holes for the brake caliper are on the top center of the H-plates.

5. Bolt down your pulley and our brake rotor flush against the differential using the provided bolts and RED Loctite. Preload sleeves will be installed on differential when shipped. (Make sure to use the proper preload pipe spacers which shoulder against the suspension bearings to keep the differential from moving side to side. 5/8” of the differential will insert into the axle bearing. If preload spacers are not properly installed the differential will move side to side and it will damage the unit and this will void the warranty)

(If you use the stock 1999 and under HD pulley you will need to use only the 2” x 1 1/8” preload pipe spacer and Torque bolts to stock HD specs on to the differential.)(If you use a 2000 and up HD pulley you would have to use both the provided small 2” x 3/8” preload pipe spacer pulley spacer along with the standard 2”x 1 1/8’ preload pipe spacer. You may need to counter bore the pulley bolt holes to allow the pulley bolts to clear the bearing on suspension.)(If you use a chain and sprocket you may need to space the sprocket out from the differential using a pulley spacer to align it with the transmission sprocket and/or use a dished sprocket. The preload sleeves may need to be cut down allow 5/8” of the differential to insert into the axle bearing. Sprockets will vary in thickness. )

PRELOAD PIPE SPACERS DIFFERENTIAL WITH PULLEY AND ROTOR

6. Insert pulley side of the axle assembly (long axle shaft) into the differential until flush with pre-load sleeve. Make sure the pulley bolts do not touch the bearing. If bolts extend past the preload spacers clearance can be adjusted by adding/removing washers/lock-washers, or counter boring the pulley bolt holes to allow the bolts to clear the bearing when the differential is installed.

7. Move the pulley side of the Axle assembly inside the belt, but leave the belt off of the pulley and position the belt toward the center of the axle.

8. Install the brake side of the Axle assembly (short axle shaft) into the brake rotor side of the differential, make sure the differential is fully seated in the axle bearings.

9. Block up the axle assembly high enough to align holes in the H-plates with holes on the swingarm brackets or jack the bike down to meet the suspension.

10. Now pin the Axle assembly to the top hole on the Swingarm mounting brackets using the 11-1/4" shaft bolts going through the top unthreaded holes on the front of the H-plates on the assembly.

11. Once the axle is pinned in place with the bolts install the top front 11-1/4" spacer shaft between the H plates using the 1-3/4 " bolts. The 1/2" x 1-3/4" bolts for the bars will pass through the top 1/2" hole and top slot on the Swingarm brackets and through the unthreaded holes on the top and bottom of the H-Plate. (NOTE: Flats on spacer bars are provided for attachment of accessories)

12. Pivot the axle forward until the belt will roll onto the pulley (the two 11-1/4” shafts must be removed in the rear of the suspension to do this) once belt is on pulley install the 3 remaining 11-1/4" spacer shafts using provided bolts.

13. Pivot axle toward rear to tension belt (approximation only until shock mounting/ride height are established) tighten front spacer bar bolts to hold in place, re-tension belt later

14. Install the Wilwood brake, add or remove thin shim spacer to center caliper on our rotor. Brakes must be bench bled using a vacuum bleeder or power bleeder. Put a piece of 3/8” thick steel between the brake pads to keep pistons from moving when bleeding. Maneuver caliper vertically and bleed all valves to remove air bubbles. (If done properly Brakes will not be spongy.) Bleed the system and then come back 30 minutes later once everything is settled to make sure there is no sponginess in the pedal. Once installed and bled drive a short distance (50 -75 yards) in first gear with the rear brake applied to help seat the pads in the rotor.

15. Variations in Rear shock length and desired ride height will dictate where shocks are mounted. Shocks attach to the bike in the stock location with stock bolts or provided mounting bolts/spacers. Desired ride height is achieved by affixing the lower end of the shock to one of the holes in the aluminum spindle housing or steel H plate. The shocks bottom attachment point may be in front of, on top of, or behind axle, whichever best approximates the proper shock angle. The new shock angle should be kept close to the stock configuration.

2004 and Up Sportster 1986-03 Sportster

1985-12 FLH Bagger 1986-12 Softail

16. It is very important to set the belt tension properly, the belt should be looser than a stock motorcycle. When you are finished there should be about 1" INCH OF UP AND DOWN PLAY on the bottom half of the belt. You do not want to over tighten the belt because it can cause bearing failure and damage to the differential voiding the warranty.

17. Last step tighten down all bolts, re-check belt tension and air pressure before riding.

RECOMENDATIONS

-We always recommend adding Raked Triple Trees to help ease the steering of any trike. The trike will work with stock trees but it is much harder to steer and there can be a front end wobble. We use a 7 degree rake on all of our trikes but our FLH has a 4.5 degree rake. 7 degree rake is the optimal degree of rake for all Harley trikes with stock tubes except the Baggers. When installing our trees we do not use a steering dampener. We recommend to over tighten the neck stem, much tighter than a motorcycle to avoid front end wobble. The front end should turn freely with a small amount of resistance which will dampen the front end.

-The stock exhaust may or may not work with the kit. The exhaust will need to exit below or in front of the suspension. When installing a body kit we provide exhaust extensions that allow the exhaust to drop down some and exit out the back. We found that Vance & Hines has a couple pair of exhaust systems that will work with our kits (Short Shots and Big Radius). Whatever you choose keep in mind that it will have to avoid the suspension and or the body kit.

-The Fixed Axle comes with one wheel bolt pattern (5 x 4-3/4"). The wheels and tires will be dictated by the type of body kit or fenders that are installed. We use a negative offset or small backspace wheel to set the wheel further away from the fixed axle to make the trike as wide as possible. The body kit is more forgiving to various wheel and tire sizes, but the fenders need a specific and specific tire size to clear the fender. For the 11" Round Rolled fenders and our body kit we recommend using a 15 x 8 rim with a -19 mm offset and a 3-3/4" backspace with a 215/60/15 tire. We will also only put 20-25 lbs of air in the tires to give a little more cushion.

MAINTANANCE

-After 5000/10000/20000 miles go over all bolts to ensure they are tight. Jack suspension in the air and rotate wheels to make sure everything is working properly such as the wheel hub and differential bearings. Inspect belt for proper belt tension. The differential and bearings are all sealed so they should not need any grease added. We use a CV joint molly grease in the differential.