Slide 1

PAVAN KUMAR GUPTA

10/19/20161STUDY ON FABRIC SOFTNESS CHARACTERISTICS BY NOZZLE EXTRACTION TECHNIQUE

Presentation OutlineIntroduction ObjectivesExperimentsResultsConclusionsFuture scope

INTRODUCTION

Fabric softness is one aspect of fabric handle feeling.Although there is lack in common definition about fabric softness. Kawabata defined fullness and softness as a feeling comes from a bulky, rich and well formed fabric. Springy property in compression and the thickness accompanied with warm feeling.General handle value, which are as follows: 40% softness-stiffness, 35% roughness-smoothness, 25% thinness-thickness, and 5% warm-cool feeling.Fabric softness is still being judged subjectively to a large extent.

OBJECTIVES

10/19/20164 The main objective is to study the softness characteristics of different types of fabrics by nozzle extraction method in single test and correlate with various fabric properties. Sub-objectivesFind out correlation between subjective assessment and nozzle extraction predicted value.Find out fabric properties that affect the extraction and radial force during fabric extraction through nozzle.Find out the relation between extraction and radial force.Finding out a fabric feel factor that is combination of the extraction force and radial force which can be used for fabric grading according the softness.

10/19/20165Material & Methods

Materials10/19/20166Commercial denim fabric have been procured from the Ginni International, Nimrana (Rajasthan). For measuring the softness effect of functional softener and different denim finishing treatment on the fabric one fabric is taken. The fabric constructional parameters are given below.

WarpWeftEPIPPIWidthWt.(oz)WeaveShadeRING + OEOE735461"-62"10 3/1 RHTIBST

Specification of Functional softener (IITD lab)

10/19/20167Silicon softener (Microgenix SW 375)Time 20 min, ph 5-6 at room temp, Dosage 20, 40, 60, 80 gpl

10/19/20168Sample No.Finish Types (Denim wash)CalculatedGSM1Raw wash Desize only258.32Enzyme wash for 60 min257.43Enzyme +heavy bleach wash253.44Enzyme + bleach +tint wash260.95Enzyme + tint wash267.66Enzyme + ice wash 258.37Enzyme + ball wash262.48Stone wash for 75 min269.89Enzyme + slight bleach wash256.710Raw fabric 274.7

Different Commercial Washing Treatments Range ~ 21gsm

10/19/20169MethodsSubjective Assessment (1st survey)Rank the softness of the fabric samples based on a five-point scale.EvaluationSoftness ratingVery soft1Better soft2Moderate soft3Just soft4Least soft5

The assessors divided into 2 groups according to their textile knowledge.Group 1Textile person11Group 2Non-textile person10

(2nd survey)Fabric Subjective Softness Criteria Groups for Subjective Assessment

10/19/201610Group 1Male 15-3014 AssessorsGroup 2Male 31-6015 AssessorsGroup 3Male Textile students45 AssessorsGroup 4Male professionals10 AssessorsGroup 5Female 15-3010 AssessorsGroup 6Female 31-6010 AssessorsGroup 7Female Textile students10 AssessorsGroup 8Female Professionals9 Assessors

Objective Measurement(Nozzle Extraction Instrument)Fabric deformation during extraction through nozzleLow complex stresses

CompressionBendingBiaxial extensionFriction

10/19/201612Sample Preparation A total of five readings for each fabric sample (size of 24 cm dia.) were taken and averaged for analysis purpose. The fabric sample should be free from wrinkles and crease.

Experiment procedureCircular fabric specimen is taken and attached to sample holder . As the clamp with which the connecting pin is attached moves upward, it extracts the fabric specimen through the nozzle. The fabric specimen gets folded, sheared, rubbed, compressed and bent during extraction. The extraction force as well as radial force is recorded by the instrument; and typical force displacement curve is obtained.Nozzle Extraction Instrument

Schematic diagram of computerized IITD fabric feel testerVideo of Testing

Typical Graph

Extraction force curveRadial force curveForce - Displacement curve

Important Parameters for Nozzle Extraction Curve 10/19/201615

Typical Extraction Curve Showing Asymmetry And Definition Of The Parameters10/19/201616

10/19/201617Results and Discussion

10/19/201618Fabrics ranked in increasing softness as Raw< 20 gpl