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FABRIC SUPPLIERQUALITY & PROCESS GUIDE

Updated Date: November 13, 2018

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TABLE OF CONTENT

INTRODUCTION.................................................................................................................................................. 4

PHASE I NEW MILL ON-BOARD

A. Mill Evaluation Form.……………………………………………………………………………………….. 5

B. Fabric Color, Pattern and Quality Approval Submit Channel…………………….………… 6

PHASE II FABRIC DEVELOPMENT

A. Fabric Development Sample/Fabric Detail Sheet…………………..………………………… 7

Fabric Type – Woven Classification..……………………….…………………………….. 8

Fabric Type – Knit Classification.………….………………………………………………… 9

Fabric Finishes/Dye Methods……………………………………………..……………….. 10

Fabric Detail Sheet…………………………………………………………………………… …… 11

PHASE III FABRIC PRE-PRODUCTION

A. Global Salesman Sample (GSS) Process……………………………………………………………… 12

B. Pattern Work Instruction……………………………………………………………………………….. 12

C. Screen/Roller Charge Policy……………………………………………………………………………… 13

Color Instruction to Mills/Vendors……………………………………….…………………………... 14

Lab Dip Request Form………………………………………………….………………………… 18

Lab Dip Submission Form………………………..………………………………….…………. 19

Sweater Marl Lab Dip Submission Form…………………………………………………. 20

PHASE IV FABRIC PRODUCTION

A. Bulk Color (Solid) Approval & Chasing Process………………………………………………… 21

B. Shade Band Approval Process for Non-Wash Program………………………………………. 21

C. Shade Band Approval Process for Wash Program……………………………………………… 21

D. Bulk Fabric Submission Form……………………..…………………………………………………… 22

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E. Quality Assurance and Testing Requirement…………………………………………………….. 23

F. New Reporting/Dispositioning Process from BVOS…………………..……………………….. 23

G. Bulk Fabric Inspection……………………………………………………….……………………………. 24

H. Inspection Policy…………………………………………………………………………………………….. 26

I. Requirement on PFD/RFD/PFP Fabric……………………….……………………………………… 31

J. Requirement on Denim Fabrics…………………………………………………………………………. 31

K. Blanket Procedure for Denim & Fabric with Garment Wet-Process……………………….. 32

L. Packing and Storage Instruction………………………………………………………….……………… 36

Acknowledgement Receipt of Eddie Bauer Fabric Supplier Quality & Process Guide………..……………… 37

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Introduction

NOTE TO ALL RECIPIENTS: THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS GUIDE IS THE

CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY INFORMATION OF EDDIE BAUER LLC AND ITS AFFILIATES

(“EDDIE BAUER”). BY USING THIS GUIDE YOU AGREE TO MAINTAIN AS CONFIDENTIAL ALL

INFORMATION IN THIS GUIDE, AND ONLY SHARE THIS INFORMATION WITH THOSE OF YOUR

EMPLOYEES AND VENDORS WHO ARE PROVIDING SERVICES TO EDDIE BAUER AND WHO

AGREE TO MAINTAIN THIS INFORMATION AS CONFIDENTIAL.

Fabric quality, appearance, and color are vital aspects of Eddie Bauer (EB) Product. Due to the wide range

of products and materials used, we have stringent processes and specific forms for fabric suppliers and/or

vertical vendors to follow. This Fabric Supplier Quality & Process Guide is a document prepared

specifically for our fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors; you will find the information needed to

ensure products fulfill Eddie Bauer’s requirement.

The most current documents and forms are located in Eddie Bauer’s on-line Global Sourcing Vendor

Compliance Manual (VCM). Because our fabric suppliers have no access right to browse Eddie Bauer’s

VCM, we will email the announcement to our fabric suppliers if there is any update to the content,

documents and the current forms in the Fabric Supplier Quality & Process Guide.

As a responsible corporate entity, Eddie Bauer expects its suppliers to take responsibility for impact of

their operations on employees, communities and the environment. Suppliers and/or vertical vendors

committed to corporate responsibility also agree to abide by our labor and human rights standards, set out

in our Workplace Factory Code of Conduct.

Eddie Bauer products must be produced under safe, fair, legal and humane working conditions throughout

the supply chain.

Eddie Bauer expects its suppliers and/or vertical vendors, including mills, wash plants, printers, dyeing,

finishing factories, and inspection agencies to meet all local laws and regulations. Laws and regulations

include environmental laws, all health and safety laws and laws of governing the treatment of employees,

including minimum wage amounts, overtime pay and limits on overtime work, the employment of minors,

and the providing of employee benefits. In addition, Eddie Bauer requires that all fabric suppliers and/or

vertical vendors providing materials for Eddie Bauer products comply with its Workplace Factory Code of

Conduct, a copy of which is attached to this guide. All products must meet all legal requirements of the

destination countries. For restricted chemicals, suppliers and/or vertical vendors are required to follow

the restricted substance list (RSL) released by the American Apparel & Footwear Association. RSL is

designed to meet the highest standard across all countries; more information can be obtained from its

official website at www.wewear.org/industry-resources/restricted-substances-list/.

For supply of Wool content fabrication to Eddie Bauer has signed up with the Responsible Wool Standards

to be mulsed free by 2020; more information can be obtained from its official website at

http://responsiblewool.org/.

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PHASE I NEW MILL ON-BOARD

A. Mill Evaluation Form

New mills to Eddie Bauer must complete and return this form. When the form is submitted to EB, a visit

from Eddie Bauer designated representative will follow up for further evaluation. (***Please see Mill

Evaluation Form by separate Excel file)

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B. Fabric Color, Pattern and Quality Approval Submit Channel

This document is prepared for fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors. The purpose of this document is to

advise where submissions need to be sent, and also help fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors to follow

the correct process and send items for approval correctly.

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PHASE II FABRIC DEVELOPMENT

A. Fabric Development Sample/Fabric Detail Sheet

In the development stage, all fabric development samples must be submitted to Materials Team together

with Eddie Bauer Fabric Detail Sheet (FDS). (***Please see the specific FDS Form by separate Word file)

If a fabric is sent in without a fully completed FDS, IT WILL NOT BE REVIEWED. All fabrics for development

must have internal/external test results supplied.

Please note Eddie Bauer has transitioned to using EB Raw Material No. (RM#) as primary reference code for

materials & using Supplier Article No. as secondary reference code for materials. (Example: EB Raw

Material No. W3556 = Supplier Article No. CNQ303-310 (FN2871-310C) All communication should

primary use of EBRM#; not supplier Article No.

In our efforts to capture as much information as we can about our fabrics we will be choosing, please fillout our FDS’ according to the instructions below:

Fabric ID# (Please fill out the RM# which assigned by Material Team)

Mill Name:Please provide any Greige Mills that are applicable,example: Mill Name (Greige Mill Name).

Fabric Type:

Please provide the Fabric Type to the most in-depthclassification, example: Woven, Plain Weave, andRipstop. Please refer to the classification charts on nextpage for further reference.

Chemical Finish: Please see “Finishes” listed on the next page.

Mechanical Finish: Please see “Finishes” listed on the next page.

Yarn Size or Gauge: Please include Warp x Weft OR Wales x Cords.

General ConstructionDetails:

Please include any additional information that may notbe included in Yarn Size/Gauge and/or Thread Count.

Dye Methods: Please see “Dye Methods” listed on the next page.Fabric Price W/Additional break-down,if applicable:If the fabric is priced inincrements, pleaseinclude

The increments in yards and the price that is associatedwith that increment

Additional Comments: Please call out if any comment/quality concern whichrelated to this fabric

*If any fabric does not fit into the attachments that we have provided, please let us know howwe will need to classify and/or document the methods being used.

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Fabric Type - Woven Classification:

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Fabric Type - Knit Classification:

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Mechanical Finishes: Chemical Finishes:

Brushed (back) OR Brushed (face) OR Brushed (back/face)WR/DWR rating (reminder: WR/DWR must use of C6 or lowercarbon type fluorocarbon.)

Buffed Anti-Bacterial,

Cire (back) OR Cire (face) OR Cire (2x back) OR Cire (2x face) Anti-Microbial,

Compacted, Anti-Mildew,

Deboss, Anti-Pilling,

Downproof, Anti-Odor,

Emboss, Anti-Static,

Fiberproof, Anti-UV,

Flat Finish, Bio-Polishing,

Peached (back) OR Peached (face) OR Peached (back/face) Bug Repellant,

Pre Shrunk, Burn-out,

Printed, Cooling,

Sanded, Dri-Release,

Shearing, Flame Retardant,

Sueded, Mercerized,

Washer Moisture Management,

Oil/Water Repellant,

Pre-Cure Wrinkle Resistant OR Post-Cure Wrinkle Resistant

Quick-Dry,

Softening,

Soil Release,

Stain/Soil Retardant,

Sugar,

UPF (rating) ex: UPF 50+, etc.

Waxed (Paraffin/Natural),

Waxed (PU),

Wicking,

Polygiene

Insect Shield

Dye Methods:Acid Dye,Batch Dye,Beam Dye,Boil-off,Cationic (Basic) Dye,Circular Dye,Disperse Dye,Double Dye,Fiber Dye,Indigo Dye,Jet Dye,Jiggar Dye,Over Dye,Overflow Dye,Piece Dye,Pigment Dye,Rapid Dye,Reactive Dye,Single Dye,Solution Dye,Space Dye,Substantive (Direct),Sulfur Dye,Top Dye,Yarn Dye

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PHASE III FABRIC PRE-PRODUCTION

A. Global Salesman Sample (GSS) Process

All fabrics that are finalized in our development season are to be used in Global Salesman Samples (GSS).

Unless you have previously received approval from the Materials Team that there will be a charge for

failing to meet a minimum order size, fabric suppliers shall not include any upcharges for salesman

samples to our factories for under minimum orders. For minimum order size approval, please discuss

with the Materials Team to ensure that fabric is of bulk quality so that EB can use the leftover fabric in

bulk.

We will require the mill to have Greige on hand for our bulk needs after Salesman Samples. The Sourcing

Team will provide Greige Projections for the season to ensure that the mills have our required needs.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors are required to submit one set of A4 cutting of ALL GSS sample

yardage to corresponded Fabric Specialist in EBA Office; “ALL” means every fabrication & every color

ordered for GSS. The submissions are required NO LATER than the ex-mill date of GSS yardage.

B. Pattern Work Instruction

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors are required to follow pattern work process which applies to print

strike offs, yarn dye handlooms/knitdowns, embroidery development, etc. The below points contain

important information and instructions to which supplier and/or vertical vendor must strictly adhere:

EBUS Materials Team is responsible for the development & tracking of all pattern work submits

with the fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors.

Eddie Bauer will continue to utilize our FTP site for all artwork transmittals, if artwork hardcopies

are needed, fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors should have the capability to print out the

artwork from the FTP site – following the correct print size, resolution, etc. If a hardcopy must be

provided by Eddie Bauer for any reason, we would like to request that the fabric suppliers and/or

vertical vendors cover the shipping costs. Please work with your Eddie Bauer Materials partner

for these requests.

EBUS Materials Team will advise pattern work development approval comments via Bamboo RosePlatform (BbR) or email from our TrackVia database to fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors proceed with GSS base on strike off approvals.

Sometimes due to timing and the strike off is still not approved, EBUS Materials Team may ask

fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors to correct and proceed in GSS.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors have to send two sets of fabric cutting of the GSS to EBUSMaterials Team to make the final color comments for production.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors must send all pattern work bulk submits toEBUS Product Development Team for appearance and quality approval prior to shipment.

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C. Screen/Roller Charge Policy

In an effort to streamline our screen and roller charges, and to comply with import duty regulations, we

are asking our fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors to help manage the screen/roller charges by:

1.) Absorbing the screen/roller charges for bulk orders, or

2.) Including screen or roller charges on first purchase invoice, or

For smaller bulk quantities we would like all payment requests for screens/rollers to be held

until our first bulk order of each print. The screen/roller charges should be included as an additional

charge on the purchase invoice sent to the garment factory so that we are able to pay import duty.

3.) Sending Eddie Bauer invoices for prints with no bulk order

Any print that Eddie Bauer does not purchase in bulk will settle directly by EBUS if needed.

Please contact EBUS Materials Team for which of above way for screen/roller settlement.

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SOLID COLOR LAB DIP INSTRUCTIONS

LAB DIP SUBMISSION TIMELINE:Please order color standards immediately upon receiving lab dip instructions from Bamboo Rose Platform(BbR) or EBUS.

We expect the 1st lab dip submits to exit your mill within 14 working days of obtaining the colorstandard.

Resubmits are expected to exit your mill 7 days from receiving of rejection comments for theprevious submit.

Once our production team confirms the vendor/factory for the style, mill should proactivelyinform EBA the latest date of lab dip approval.

If there’s any delay of bulk shipment due to the late of lab dip submits, the fabric suppliers and/orvertical vendors have to take the whole responsibility to bear the air flight cost if occurred

LAB DIP APPROVAL GOAL:It is our expectation that you will submit lab dips that should be able to be approved by the 1st or 2nd roundof submits.

REPEAT / CARRYOVER COLORS:Lab dips will no longer have an expiration date. If suppliers and/or vertical vendors need to submit a newdip for a carryover color due to change in dye stuff, change in dye facility, etc., the responsibility will be onsuppliers and/or vertical vendors to resubmit the lab dip to Eddie Bauer Color Department for review andapproval.

COLOR APPROVAL:1.) Light Sources:

a. The primary light source is D65.i. Match the lab dips to the standard in D65.

b. The secondary light source is CWF (Cool White Fluorescent)i. Please only check for lab dip color stability in CWF.

ii. Many color standards flare, therefore, do not attempt to match to the standard inCWF, nor check for metamerization. We are only concerned with the lab dip’s colorstability between different light sources. This may mean only visually evaluating forstability in CWF without the standard in the light box.

c. The tertiary light source is IncA (Incandescent A).i. Please also check that the lab dip has not changed hue in IncA.

2.) Tolerances:Please note: EB only considers the primarily light source (D65) when approving lab dips and bulkproduction lots. In rare cases, EB may also consider spectrophotometer results given the belowtolerances.

a. The Delta E tolerance and LCH valuesi. Knits and Wovens: dE1.0, L0.8, C0.4, and H0.4

ii. Sweaters: dE1.0, L0.8, C0.5, and H0.5

b. For Outerwear and Gear categories, the approved lab dip will generally be considered thetarget for bulk fabric color to match. Bulk color MUST fall between the approved lab dipand the original color standard.

c. For Sportswear and Outlet categories, the color standard and its data will be the standardfor bulk fabric color to match.

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3.) Spectrophotometer Reading Reports:For those mills that have a spectrophotometer installed, their lab dip and 1st dye lot of each colormust be provided together with a Spectra Reading Report when submitting.

a. The spectrophotometer QTX file is provided by Color Solutions International (CSI) whenyou purchase the requested color standard.

b. Please contact EBA colorists for the QTX file for color standards other than CSI originated.

4.) Submitting lab dips for approval:a. The lab dips should at least 2” x 2” in size and mounted on our Lab Dip Submission Form.b. Please mark the letter of the dip on the back of the lab dip, not the face.c. All colorfastness data must be provided, otherwise Eddie Bauer Colorist has right to not

comment to the submission, and no obligation if bulk fabric delivery impacted.d. Western Hemisphere suppliers may submit one set of submits to EBUS office.e. All other fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors please send 1 set per round of submits to

EBA, and 1 duplicated set of the lab dips with approved information to EBUS withattention to Junko Harris.

f. The suppliers are responsible for paying the courier expense to send the lab dips to EddieBauer in Bellevue & Hong Kong.

g. Please send the lab dip to the following addresses:

ATTN: Junko Harris (EBUS/DOM; for Western Hemisphere mills)EDDIE BAUER10401 NE 8th STREET, STE 500BELLEVUE, WA 98004USA.Telephone: 425-755-6706junko.harris@eddiebauer.com

ATTN: Gloria Xie / Dick Leung / Clara Ng (EBA/OS; for all other mills)Eddie Bauer AsiaUnit 3001-2, 30/Fl., AIA Kowloon Tower, Landmark East,100 How Ming Street, Kwun Tong, Kowloon,Hong Kong.Telephone: 852-3758-6225/6268/6231gloria.xie@eddiebauer.comdick.leung@eddiebauer.comclara.ng@eddiebauer.com

ORDERING COLOR STANDARDS:We associate our color names with multiple color standards.DOUBLE CHECK THE CORRECT NAME AND COLOR NUMBER.

Color standards are obtained from one of the following 3 suppliers:

1.) CSI (Color Solutions International) Standards Please order the CSI standards immediately CSI colors are all EB colors with 6 Numbers:

Example: Brown EB037-010Brown EB037-010A

Please note: WHITE # 2 and IVORY # 3 are also ordered from CSI. These color standards are available for purchase on the CSI website. (instructions below) If your dyers are having trouble achieving a match with the formula, they can contact CSI to ask for

assistance in finding a solution for the substrate they work with.

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The cost of the color standards and the shipping is to be incurred by the mill. CSI Ordering Instructions:

A. Register/Login at www.colorsolutionsinternational.como Click “MyCSI LOGIN” on top menu baro The first time you register there will be a 24-hour delay while CSI approves your

registration.B. Find Color:

a) TO SEE COMPLETE PALETTE:o Under “Choose a Division:” select “All Divisions”o Click “All Palettes”

b) TO SEARCH BY COLOR:o Under “Search for a Color:” enter Color name only.o Choose the correct COLOR AND EB NUMBER

C. Choose quantity per color:o A Spectrophotometer QTX files and dye recipe based on Dystar formulas is provided

free of charge together when you place the purchase.D. Check Out:

o Use your own courier account, or CSI will charge a surcharge if use of their nominatedcourier service for each shipment of color standard order.

2) Supplier Stock Colors: Colors from a supplier’s color card eg. BROS and/or HUAFU. These colors may be taken from a color card; or may be taken from a mill’s stock. These will not require a lab dip received directly from a supplier.

3) All Other Color Standards (not from CSI, nor suppliers): These standards are for colors that were established prior to changing to CSI as our main color

standard supplier. The color team will mail you these standards shortly after the lab dip initiated. These colors are numbered as follows (These numbers are not real; they are just for example):

Color name followed by 3 or 4 numbers:Example: Brown EB2-115

Brown EB025

Color name followed by 3 letters starting with E or A:Example: Brown EBA164

Brown EBM245Brown EBW166Brown EBO253Brown AKM1149Brown AKW5113

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Lab Dip Chasing

Suppliers and/or Vertical Vendors must provide status of all lab dips they are supplying for Eddie Bauer

product. The below points contain important information and instructions to which mills and/or vertical

vendors must strictly adhere: -

1. Fabric mill to submit 1st lab dip should not more than 14 working days upon receipt of the colorstandard.

2. EB Color Team to provide comments on all lab dips within 2 working days upon receipt.

3. EB Color Team to send comments via Bamboo Rose Platform (BbR) or email to the fabric mills.

4. All lab dip resubmits are due within 7 working days from the date the fabric mill receives commentsfrom EB Color Team.

5. Suppliers and/or Vertical Vendors are responsible for on time submission to ensure approval of alllab dips before the deadline.

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Lab Dip Request FormPlease order color standards immediately upon receiving lab dip instructions from Bamboo Rose Platform (BbR) or EBUS on below format: -

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Lab Dip Submission formThis form is used for lab dips on all areas of the business, except sweater marls.

(***Please see Lab Dip Submission Form by separate Excel file)

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Sweater Marl Lab Dip Submission Form

(***Please see Sweater Marl Lab dip Submission form by separate PDF file)

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PHASE IV FABRIC PRODUCTION

A. Bulk Color (Solid) Approval & Chasing Process

The below points contain important information and instructions regarding submission process

which fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors must strictly adhere.

Suppliers and/or vertical vendors are responsible to ensure on time bulk color submission andapprove the 1st dye lot 3 weeks before the Fabric ex-mill date.

In some cases, Eddie Bauer Color Team will request that a fabric mill submit ALL SUBSEQUENTDYE LOTS for approval prior to bulk fabric shipment – not just the 1st dye lot.

It is the mill’s responsibility to ensure the subsequent dye lots meet the approved dye lot.

Eddie Bauer Color Team will send approval comments thru Bamboo Rose Platform (BbR) oremail within 48 hours upon receipt of submission.

Any fabric resubmits will be sent by fabric suppliers to Eddie Bauer Color Team within 7 daysfrom receiving comments for the rejected submission.

Suppliers and/or vertical vendors are responsible for paying the courier expense to send thebulk color submission to Eddie Bauer in Bellevue & Hong Kong.

B. Shade Band Approval Process for Non-Wash Program

Suppliers and/or vertical vendors are required to submit shade lot to Eddie Bauer Color Team

for approval proactively.

Suppliers and/or vertical vendors submit bulk shade band to Vendor for approval prior to fabric

shipment.

In some cases, Eddie Bauer Color Team will request that a suppliers and/or vertical vendorssubmit shade bands for ALL SUBSEQUENT DYE LOTS for approval prior to bulk fabric shipment.

Accurate information is required for ALL shade lot submits. Required information: Lot #,Quantity, Fabric ex-mill date and Garment Delivery date.

Please note: EBA DOES NOT ALLOW OR ACCEPT vendors to use shading/special markers forbulk garment production. Any affected fabric should be replaced immediately and withoutdelay.

C. Shade Band Approval Process for Wash Program

All washed shade bands should be sent to EBUS Product Developer for approval.

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D. Bulk Fabric Submission Form

In the bulk production stage, all fabrics must be submitted on the Eddie Bauer Bulk Fabric Submission

Form; 4 sets to EB Colorist for 1st dye lot color approval, another 3 sets and 0.5yd in full width to EBA

Fabric Specialist for quality, appearance, handfeel & finishing approval prior to shipment. Production

quality of the entire bulk production must meet the quality of the fabric sample submitted (if it is

approved) and the sample must be submitted early enough to execute if any improvement is needed.

(***Please see Bulk Shade Band _Washband Submission Form by separate Excel file)

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E. Quality Assurance and Testing Requirement

Bulk fabric testing report is valid for 2 continual production seasons only. A new test is required after

expiration of the old report.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors must be aware that all bulk qualities, colors and tests must

meet EB standards, and test report is required submit for approval 2 weeks prior to shipment.

Third party testing is compulsory on Eddie Bauer fabrics, unless the fabric supplier and/or verticalvendors have granted Eddie Bauer certified in-house testing lab. Bulk fabric may not be used withoutan approved test report.

Bureau Veritas is Eddie Bauer’s approved independent laboratory, and no other lab may be used forbulk testing without Eddie Bauer agreement.

Please refer to the following appendices for the detail of testing requirements, including specifications,protocols and policy statements.

1) Eddie Bauer Quality Assurance Apparel Testing for Adults & Children2) Eddie Bauer Testing Specifications3) TS BV Costing Update4) Eddie Bauer Quality Assurance Non-Apparel Testing Policy (Accessories/Home; Hardlines –

Gear & Gadget)5) Eddie Bauer Testing Protocols6) Eddie Bauer Global Sourcing Announcement: Bureau Veritas-Test Request Form - On Line7) Introduction to Bureau Veritas OneSource System

F. New Reporting/Dispositioning Process from BVOS

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors can access production test through an information

management system called Bureau Veritas OneSource (BVOS) which is managed by our nominated test

provider Bureau Veritas.

BVOS system is utilized specifically for reviewing and commenting on “Failed” production test reports.

Comments regarding “Failed” production reports will be given by EBA Materials & Color Team

though BVOS system.

Fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors will receive an email directly from BVOS

(DONOTREPLY@VERITAS.COM) with Eddie Bauer’s comments pertaining to a specific report along

with a link and a passcode. This email will be issued to all recipients listed on the Test Request Form

and can be used to log into BVOS for that particular reviewed report in order to comment back to Eddie

Bauer staff. Once the recipient of the email enters the BVOS site, they will be directed to an "Order

Details" page which shows the report Eddie Bauer has reviewed, the tests conducted at the lab, as well

as any comments listed by Eddie Bauer. Filling out the Test Request Form (TRF) completely and

accurately is even more crucial than before as this information is used when issuing comments from

BVOS.

A PDF file introduction to Bureau Veritas OneSource System helps to explain the Product Disposition

workflow and how mills/vendors need to interact with BVOS.

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G. Bulk Fabric Inspection

The following performance criteria shall be evaluated during fabric inspection by fabric suppliers

and/or vertical vendors.

Shipment Rule -

Rolls that fail to meet performance criteria must be pulled from shipment.

Mildew –

Total consignment will be rejected if any roll exhibits mildew at inspection. Processing shall stop

immediately, and evidence of mildew documented for claim.

Odors –

Total consignment will be rejected if any roll exhibits objectionable odor at inspection or while laying.

For all resin fabrics, at least one roll shall be checked for odor 24hrs after packing.

Hand Feel –

At the inspection, the hand feel shall be evaluated at beginning, middle and end of each roll. Shipment

shall fail if it does not meet the given approved quality standard.

Weight –The inspectors shall check fabric weight by punching at inspection. Weight must be recorded oninspection report. Weight must fall within ± 5% of agreed standard on fabric detail sheet.

Width –

At the inspection, the fabric width shall be checked for each roll at beginning, middle and end. Thecuttable width must exclude stenter pin marks at selvedge, unprinted, uncoated or untreated surfaceportion of the fabric.

Bare –

No bare will be accepted on any roll. If bare exceeds 10% of the consignment, then total consignmentwill be rejected.

Roll Length –

Roll length must be mentioned in ticket. No shortage will be accepted. Minimum length can be noshorter than 25yards. Roll lengths 25-50 yards not allowed more than 10% to the shipment. If mill hasany technical difficulties in maintaining required length, then mill shall advise EBUS or EBA atdevelopment stage. Only one splice per roll is acceptable and count as 4 point. Fabric mill must identifyyield of the fabric on packing list or roll ticket as well as fabric weight. Fabric length on ticket must notexceed weight x yield.Example – If roll weight is 20kg and yield is 5m/kg, then ticket length must not exceed 100m.

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Pattern repeat size –

Yarn dye or printed repeats must be checked against the approved strike-off or reference sample atbeginning, middle and end of roll. 1% plus or minus will be accepted on repeat size taken number ofrepeats in 50cm from start, middle and end.Example – repeat size -5cm. Total number of repeats -50/5=10 repeats. Number of repeats can beaccepted 10*1% = 0.1 – 9.9 to 10.1.If 10% of the shipment fabric fails, then entire shipment fails.

Bowing & Skewing –

At the inspection, Bow and Skew must be checked for inspected rolls. If the roll (s) does not meet the

maximum tolerance specified by Eddie Bauer (see Vendor Compliance Manual for tolerance

standards).

If the total number of yards/meters graded as second quality is more than 10% of the total inspection

quantity for all criteria, the entire shipment fails.

Within the roll shading –

Fabric inspector must check shade variation between side-to-side, side-to-center and end-to-end. 10%

of the roll must be shade checked at start middle and end. Shading must maintain grey scale 4-5. Below

shading will be rejected. No roll shall have shading differential. If any roll has shading issue, then

shipment will be rejected unless mill receives approval by EBA to ship.

Fabric mill shall measure shading by taking five (5) full width fabric cuts from each roll and compare

shading by re-attaching five full width cuts as below.

Full width

A B C D E

Cut and re-stitch

D A C E B

10 % of theBatch

Start

Middle

End

Eddie Bauer follows ASTM D5430 4-Point System for bulk inspection. For detail of requirements, please

refer to “4-Point System”.

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H. Inspection Policy

All textile suppliers, garment manufacturers and/or third-party inspection service companies mustadhere to the policies and standards in this manual when conducting Eddie Bauer fabric inspection.

Third Party inspection at Bureau Veritas:

To ensure compliance with the quality standards described in this manual, Eddie Bauer has the right toconduct a third-party inspection at the Fabric supplier’s cost. Common reasons for inspection includebut are not limited to the following:

New Fabric Mill until we see satisfactory performance. Fabric from mills which have a history of poor performance One fabric article produced in multiple countries of original (not recommended) Fabric is deemed High Risk by Eddie Bauer 1st lot of fabric fails initial inspection at the vendor

BV has the right to refuse a fabric inspection if: Inadequate preparation of goods for inspection including but are not limited to: Goods not held in one location Improper lighting at Mill Broken frame, insufficient equipment Insufficient personnel required to load and unload the inspection frame

Inspection Conditions

Fabric must be inspected on an inspection frame or perch fitted with a variable speed motor as well asa meter for measuring roll lengths. The frame must be tilted so that the fabric passes at an angle betweenforty-five degrees (45°) and sixty degrees (60°) of horizontal. During the inspection, the inspector shallstand at an appropriate distance from the inspection frame/perch to ensure the best possible visibilityof fabric shading and defects.

The frame/perch should be lighted with a minimum of two D65 bulbs. The minimum illumination levelmust be 100 foot candles (1075 lux). The bulbs shall be parallel to each other and perpendicular to thedirection the fabric is moving. The lights should be approximately four feet from the section of fabricbeing inspected. The lights must also be directly above the viewing area, at a sixty-degree angle (60°).Bulbs must be replaced when required lux is not omitted, and inspection machine should be calibratedon an annual basis.

Fabric is required to be inspected at a speed that is compatible with the inspector’s ability and the typeof textile being audited. The first 10% of the rolls are to be inspected at low speed to identify fabricdefects. The balance 90% inspection speed is left to the discretion of the inspector, but should neverexceed:

• 25 yards per minute for solid colors• 15 yards per minute for printed/pattern fabrics• 10 yards per minute for tailored fabrics

The roll should be stopped at least three times during inspection (start, middle, and end). At these stops,inspector must check fabric width, hand feel, shade variation and shading.

All sheer, brushed, and emerised fabrics must be viewed with a backlight of at least 10%. However,other fabrics may be inspected with a backlight when necessary or as stated in the purchasingagreement.

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Fabric Inspection Roll ReportThis report must state all defects found on each inspected roll. After inspection, a copy of the reportshould provide to garment vendor.

Mill Responsibility on inspection 100% inspection all bulk fabric 100% shade check at the beginning of each roll-- a 6-inch full width (head-end ) should be taken

for checking color shading (refer to how to check color shading) 10% shading check at start, middle and end of roll 100% weight check Mark all points at selvedge. Mark face side, nap direction on all rolls at beginning and end.

Vendor Responsibility on inspection Conduct at least 10% inspection at beginning. If fail, then inspect another 15%. Follow the cut and claim procedure for inspection failures (Details are referred to p.33 - Fabric

Quality Issue Guidelines) Follow blanket procedure for color assessment and color shade check.

NOTE: Eddie Bauer reserves the right to reject any product quality failure to meetspecifications based on its inspection.

4-Point System

Guideline

Eddie Bauer adopts 4-Point System according to ASTM D5430. This method describes a procedure toestablish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection. Mills or verticalvendors must follow this standard for the delivery and acceptance of fabrics. All type of fabrics whethergrey or finished, knit or woven, is graded by this system. Visible defects are scored in proportion to thesize of defect.

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality and significance ofthe defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single defect. Defect can be measuredeither length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are considered. Nopenalty points are assigned to minor defects.

Defect Classification

Defect Size (length of width Penalty Points

Defects ≤ 3 inches 1

3 inches < defect ≤ 6 inches 2

6 inches < defect ≤ 9 inches 3

Defect ≥ 9 inches 4

Only major defects are taken into account. A maximum of 4 points are assigned to one linear yard.Defects like hole, netting, dropped stitches, laddering and torn selvage, continuously running along thelength of the fabric are scored 4 points regardless of size.

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Defect Calculation

Actual individual roll points (penalty points per 100 square yards)

=Total penalty points x 3600 (conversion factor)Average cuttable width x yards inspected

Example:A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains following defects.

4 defects up to 3 inch length3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length1 defect over 9 inch length1 hole over 1 inch

4 x 13 x 22 x 31 x 41 x 4

4 points6 points6 points4 points4 points

Total defect points 24 pointsPenalty points / sq yards = (24 x 3600)/(120 x 46)

= 15.652 points

Definition:“First Quality” – An individual roll/piece is graded a “First” if actual individual roll points do notexceed requested individual roll points specified below. Similarly, the average shipment points shouldnot exceed requested shipment points for an entire shipment to be considered First Quality.“Second Quality” – A roll/piece is graded a “Second” if the total penalty points per 100 square yardsexceed requested individual roll points.

However, different fabrics have different acceptable levels according to fabric group; mill or vendorshould refer to the following table.

1) WovenFabric Type Individual Roll Shipment

All synthetic 20 points/100 yd2 18 points/100 yd2

CottonBasic denimWoolen punCorduroy / VelvetSynthetic blends

24 points/100 yd2 20 points/100 yd2

Linen / Blends 30 points/100 yd2 28 points/100 yd2

2) KnitFabric Type Individual Roll Shipment

All syntheticWorsted spunWarp knitLace

20 points/100 yd2 18 points/100 yd2

All specialty fabric – Jacquard/DobbySynthetic blendsWoolen spunSpandex stretchFleece/Terry/Inlay

24 points/100 yd2 20 points/100 yd2

Basic knit fabric (combed cotton/cottonblended)Plain jersey/interlock/rib

24 points/100 yd2 20 points/100 yd2

Basic knit fabric (carded cotton) 28 points/100 yd2 24 points/100 yd2

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Quality Criteria

1) The whole shipment is designated ‘FAIL’ if:a. The penalty points per shipment are over requirement as specified

above.b. the failed second quality percentage is over 10% over the total fabric

order.c. The total measured inspected length must match the total ticket length.d. any inspected roll’s design/pattern/construction does not match to the

description on the order or approved color swatch.

2) An individual roll may be considered as “First Quality,” but the whole shipment ispending if the roll has any of the following defects (even if no penalty points areassigned):

Hand feel Roll does not match the approved sampleOdor and mildew Roll exhibits odor or mildewWeight Out of ± 5%

Two different rolls per colorShade evaluation Roll is outside of grey scale 4-5 against the approved

sample but the total second quality percentage is lessthan 10%.

Roll shade with grey scale 4 but each inspected roll iswithin grey scale 4-5 against the approved sample

3) An individual roll is considered as “Second Quality” if it has the following defects andno penalty points:

Shade evaluation Roll is outside of grey scale 4-5 against the approved sampleShade continuity Roll is outside of grey scale 4-5 within one roll

Note: side – center – side, end to endLength Roll measures less than the roll ticketCuttable width Narrow width has no tolerance

Any minus than specified cuttable widthBow/Skew If Bow/Skew is rejected during inspection, then final

decision will be made subject to the bulk fabric test resultPoor selvage Roll exhibits a notice degree of loss or tightness along

either or both selvedges. Ripples, puckers, folds or crease in the fabric body that

prevent the fabric from lying flat when being spread in aconventional manner.

Running defect Includes dye streak, barre, needle line, etc. Defect repeats over 9”/230mm. Defect repeats through more than 10 continuous yards.Note: if roll is less than 50 yards, it must be rejected at morethan 3 continuous yards.

4) An individual roll is considered as “Second Quality” and assigned penalty points whenit has the following defects:

Splices Minimum splice length of 30 yards for all fabrics No roll is accepted containing more than two joined pieces.

Full width defect No roll contains more than four full width defects per 100linear yards

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5) An individual roll is considered as “Second Quality” if it has the following defects andno penalty points:

Shade evaluation Roll is outside of grey scale 4-5 against the approved sampleShade continuity Roll is outside of grey scale 4-5 within one roll

Note: side – center – side, end to endLength Roll measures less than the roll ticketCuttable width Narrow width has no tolerance

Any minus than specified cuttable widthBow/Skew If Bow/Skew is rejected during inspection, then final

decision will be made subject to the bulk fabric test resultPoor selvage Roll exhibits a notice degree of loss or tightness along

either or both selvedges. Ripples, puckers, folds or crease in the fabric body that

prevent the fabric from lying flat when being spread in aconventional manner.

Running defect Includes dye streak, barre, needle line, etc. Defect repeats over 9”/230mm. Defect repeats through more than 10 continuous yards.Note: if roll is less than 50 yards, it must be rejected at morethan 3 continuous yards.

6) An individual roll is considered as “Second Quality” and assigned penalty points whenit has the following defects:

Splices Minimum splice length of 30 yards for all fabrics No roll is accepted containing more than two joined pieces.

Full width defect No roll contains more than four full width defects per 100linear yards

Fabric Quality Issue Guidelines –

The below points contain information and instructions for fabric suppliers and/or vertical vendors

when quality issues are found during inspection. Instructions must be strictly followed.

1. Fabric supplier advises EBA Materials & Color Team of the quality issue by email. Email should

include: Department, Season, DRN, Vendor, Fabric Article No., Color Name, Total Order

Quantity, Type of Defect, % of Defect, % of Shortage, Roll No., and Fabric ex-mill date.

2. Fabric supplier must also send EBA Materials & Color Team the following:

a. Any / All Fabric Inspection Reports

b. Defective samples / swatches showing the defect

c. Approved quality swatch that was approved by EBUS

3. Fabric supplier should provide Action Plan (e.g. repair/ refinish/ replenishment lead-time/

discount options)

4. EBA Materials & Color Team will review the quality issue together with Production Team

immediately upon receipt of the samples. A decision shall be made within 3 business days. If

approval/decision can’t be reached, defective samples will be sent to EBQA for final comment /

decision.

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5. Fabric supplier must hold fabric shipment until agreement is reached.

6. EBA Materials & Color Team should inform onsite QA and vendor regarding the quality issue

and EB decision. Marginal acceptance quality should be signed by the EBA Materials & Color

Team. One set will be kept in the EBA office.

I. Requirement on PFD/RFD/PFP Fabric

When PFD (Prepared For Dye) / RFD (Ready For Dye) / PFP (Prepared For Print) fabric is requested

from any mill, it must provide the following criteria in advance. (Mill should also maintain each

parameter thoroughly on FULL SCOURED and FULL BLEACHED (NON OBA) fabric. In addition, fabric

should be PROPERLY FINISHED as per Eddie Bauer performance requirements.)

Maintaining the property of GOOD SEWABILITY is another key factor on PFD fabric. However sewabilitylubricant must be able to quickly and easily wash off during garment dye pretreatment process in orderto maintain proper/level/even dye absorption.

I. Requirement of Woven Fabric PFD

a) Whiteness Index Acceptable Tolerance in accordance with CIE LAB Equations. (SpeculaIncluded and should use Standard Swatch for each measurement. Should not match againstpreviously Saved data of Standard Swatch)

a. 68-70 in D65/10 as Primary Illuminant.b. 66-68 in CWF as Secondary Illuminant.

b) pH Level tolerance must be between 6.5 – 7.0c) Water Absorbency Level should follow test method AATCC 79-1995, Water Drop Method.d) Residual Starch using iodide solution shall follow TWEGA scale.

II. Requirement of Knitted Fabric PFD

a) Whiteness Index Acceptable Tolerance in accordance with CIE LAB Equations. (SpeculaIncluded and should use Standard Swatch for each measurement. Should not match againstpreviously Saved data of Standard Swatch)

a. 68-70 in D65/10 as Primary Illuminant.b. 66-68 in CWF as Secondary Illuminant.

b) pH Level tolerance must be between 6.5 – 7.0c) Water Absorbency Level should follow test method AATCC 79-1995, Water Drop Method.

J. Requirement on Denim Fabrics

Mill must do 100% roll blanket and assess the shade range to ship the fabric. Mill must internally rejectif does not fit to the shade range. Mill must provide pre-shipment yardage and two blankets to vendorwashed and non-washed or as directed by EB Vendor. Mill must test according to EB standard to getapproval from EBA Materials & Color Team and obtain written approval from vendor to proceed withshipment.

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K. Blanket Procedure for Denim & Fabric with Garment Wet-Process,

To cut 10% of each consignment Start /Middle /End full width during at fabric inspection

Cut Full width ½ yard fabric from 100% roll.

Check Shading full width fabric

According to the widthwise shading in the roll, group shading level A,B,C..( figure 2a)

Keep one roll from each shading group & cut rest to check shrinkage 50cm x 50cm. (Applicable

for Wash garments only )

Mark 35cm x 35 cm in the 50 x 50 pcs (Applicable for wash garments only.)

Cut 8 x 8 inch fabric bottom part of balance yard. (Applicable for wash garments only.)

Each 8 x8 inch clearly Mark roll#, Lot # in each piece. (Applicable for wash garments only.)

Washing 10% inspected roll in full width cut, Shade group full width fabric, fabric mats,

shrinkage at one time (Applicable for wash garments)

1. Full width fabric attach together Start/Middle/End from 10% inspection. (figure 1)

2. Full width fabric from shading groups. (figure 2 + figure 2 a)

3. Shrinkage pillow cases. (figure 3)

4. Shade Matt. (figure 4)

No -1 (figure 1)

No-2(figure 2)

18”

h

Sha

Roll #, Lot #

Shading Gr

Roll #, Lot #

Full Widt

”

ding Group A

oup B

9” -Start

9”” Middle

d

9”” En

18”

33

Attached Picture (figure 2a)

No -3(figure 3)

50 cm x 50 cm

No -4 -(figure-4) This is cut from Non wash piece

Roll # ,Lot#8 x 8 inch

Roll# ,Lot # Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot#

Roll # ,Lot# Standard Roll piece(PRE shipmentSample )

Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot#

Roll # ,Lot#Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot#

Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot# Roll # ,Lot#8 x 8 inch

Non Wash Piece Mark 35cm x 35cm

35cm x 35cm

34

1. Shade Matt keep reference for wash plant

2. After get shrinkage measurements then cut piece of after wash fabric 10cm & before

wash fabric 10cm from none wash piece. (Figure 5)

COLOUR CONTINUITY PROCEDURE Wash & Non Wash

Please Note -

Each Shade s

Non wash Ga

Denim & Gar

A/W wash

Garments

Fabric Length

10cm

Fabric

Width

10cm

Shade

D

Shade

C

Shade

B

hh

h

)

Shade

A

B/W

hould m

rments

ment d

Fabric LengtFabric Lengt

arked the information of no. of yardage & represent roll #s.

only attach before wash 10cm x 10 cm fabric pieces

ye Continuity card is only for shade segregation purpose

Fabric Widt

Figure (5

35

Non Denim - Make Full Leg Panel from Each shade group & Wash with Standard Leg

panel. Need to get EB approval to Proceed Cutting as Washing Shade Range.

25cm

Pocket with Flap (all the seams must

Be Twin Needle) 35cm

35cm

Hem and Side Seams must be stitched

By Twin Needle)

Denim – Full shade range to be get from 1st /2nd Bulk.

Bulk Dye lot –

Roll cuttings must be taken by fabric mill from each dye lot and are evaluated against lab dip. If there

is more than one dye lot, then each dye lot must be segregated into shade lots. All shade lots must be

submitted to EBA for approval with fabric yardage representing each shade lot. A maximum of three

shade groups with a similar color space are acceptable and must be evaluated under standard lights.

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Fabric rolls identification Tag –

The mill must attach 2 identification tags to the end of each roll inside and outside of the packing unlessotherwise instructed by Vendor. The individual roll identification numbers must also correspond to thePacking List.Roll identification tags must contain at minimum the following information:

• Mill style number/name• Eddie Bauer color name/number• Roll number (must correspond to the packing list)• Total yards and weight of the roll• Fiber content• Lot number and shade lot number• Fabric yield –meters per kilo grams• Vendor

If the above information is not listed on the identification tag, then it must be provided in fabricinspection report or Packing list.All fabric must be wrapped around a spiral wound tube with the necessary wall thickness and strengthto ensure the fabric reaches its destination in good condition.

L. Packing and Storage Instruction

A Packing List representing the fabric rolls within the shipment must be e-mailed to vendor or attachedto the shipment documents. Vendors will use the packing list to ensure a random sampling of rolls isinspected.

The Packing List must be broken down by color way and contain the following information:• Mill Shipment Number• Vendor PO Number• Vendor• Mill Style Number/Name• Eddie Bauer Color Number/Name• Roll Numbers• Each Roll to mention the appropriate Lot number• Yards per roll• Total yardage of shipment by shade lot group• Fabric yield –meter per Kilo grams

Fabric suppliers have to submit packing list together with invoice and shipping documents to consigneeor garment factory.

Storage of fabric reserved for Eddie Bauer must be kept in separate racks for easy identification. Fabricsuppliers and/or vertical vendors must store all fabric in standard condition to avoid risk of damage.The storage area must be clean and tidy, free from pollution, dust, gas, oil, water leakage, or vehiclesmoke. Fabrics must be kept at least one foot off floor.

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Acknowledgement Receipt of

Eddie Bauer Fabric Supplier Quality & Process Guide

Date:

I hereby acknowledge the receipt of the Eddie Bauer Fabric Supplier Quality & Process Guide. I agree

that all information in the Guide is confidential and proprietary information of Eddie Bauer, and I will

maintain it as confidential. I have reviewed and fully understand Eddie Bauer’s processes,

requirements, protocols and policy statements. Any questions should be submitted to Eddie Bauer

designated representative.

Mill/ Vendor Name:

Received/ Noted by:

(Authorized Mill/ Vendor Officer print name)

Signed:

Company Chop