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many claims from other competitors. The QUADZILLA brand is bred from a racing background and this is a key to the development of all our products. 80% of QUADZILLA staff ride ATVs or Quadricycles at the Quadzilla test track or racing, even our sales manager recently rode the Weston Beach Race. If you buy a QUADZILLA vehicle you should now it will have been tested more thoroughly than any other make available in the market today. All OEM parts for every model we have sold over the last 10 years is still available from our UK distribution centre.

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QUADZILLA leads were others can only follow

Page 2. Farming Express

Tractor & Machinery

Farming Express. Page 3

Tractor & Machinery

Page 4. Farming Express

Tractor & Machinery

A G R I - H I R E L T DFidgeons Farm, Bullen Lane, Bramford, Ipswich, Suffolk IP8 4JJ Est. 1986

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Agri-Hire LimitedTel: 01473 744088Email: agrihire@agrihire.co.uk • www.agrihire.co.uk

Agri-Hire newly appointed dealer for

in SuffolkFor Sales & Service please call Jeremy

on 01473 744184

4x4 Guide

Farming Express. Page 5

The Labour Party would abandon the badger cull should it win the next General Election in May, according to their Shadow DEFRA Minister Maria Eagle.

“A Labour government will tackle the scourge of Bovine TB, but not by using a policy dubbed “an epic failure” by the Chief Scientific Advisor of Natural England,” she said. “Conference, I want to make it clear today. We will put a stop to these inhumane, ineffective badger culls. “The country is crying out for change People want a new government that will ensure all our families benefit from economic growth - that rewards hard work and helps the next generation get on, wherever they live.” Animal protection organisation Humane Society International welcomed the pledge, saying the cull was an ‘unmitigated disaster from the start’. “We are delighted that Labour has pledged an end to this cruel and pointless badger slaughter if it wins the May election. The cull has been an unmitigated disaster from the start, and lacks any scientific credibility whatsoever. “The ongoing activities in Somerset and Gloucestershire clearly risk making the situation for farmers worse not better, and are responsible for continued horrendous badger suffering. “Despite overwhelming expert opinion and evidence that culling badgers can make no meaningful contribution to controlling cattle TB in Britain, the Government doggedly continues to pursue a flawed, expensive and unethical badger cull. “Even DEFRA’s own Independent Expert Panel found that last year’s culls had been ineffective and inhumane, and the success in Wales of bringing TB in cattle under control without a single badger being killed is further evidence of how misguided and unnecessary this badger cull is. “Labour’s promise to abandon the cull is the only honourable, ethical and science-led thing to do. If indeed that came to pass then England could finally stop pointlessly massacring innocent badgers and join Wales in tackling TB with proven cattle-based measures and a focus on developing and using effective vaccination

strategies.” But the National Farmers’ Union said farmers are losing their livestock to the disease and action needed to be taken. NFU President Meurig Raymond said: “Bovine TB continues to devastate farming family businesses across large parts of the country and it is essential that we do everything we can to control and eradicate it. Last year more than 32,000 cattle were slaughtered because of this disease and more than 4,700 additional farming families saw their businesses affected by it. “In areas where the disease is endemic, like the South West, action must be taken to control it in badgers if we are to stop reinfection occurring and have any chance of wiping it out. This has been acknowledged by the Government and is reflected in its 25-year TB eradication strategy. “Both cull companies have worked closely with Defra and Natural England to ensure that the recommendations made by the Independent Expert Panel to improve the delivery of operations following last year’s culls have been implemented. “The Chief Vet has said culling over a four-year period in both pilot areas will have an impact on disease control and we remain confident that these pilots will help to deliver a reduction of TB in cattle. It is vital that they are allowed to be successfully completed so they can deliver the maximum benefits.” The government had been urged by charities to extend its limited Badger Edge Vaccination Funding Scheme as an alternative to culling. The Chair of Natural England’s Scientific Advisory Committee described the culls as an “epic failure”, and the vast majority of independent scientists agree that a cull can make no meaningful contribution to controlling TB in cattle. “By contrast, badger vaccination using the injectable BCG vaccine is a viable alternative, and DEFRA is promoting public funding for vaccination projects in the ‘edge’ area bordering the region worst affected by bovine TB in England,” the organisation said. “However, HSI UK warns that unless the scheme is available in ‘high risk’ bTB areas, and until DEFRA and the

NFU actively counter their own anti-vaccination rhetoric, the scheme will have limited impact.” In light of the advice provided by the Independent Expert Panel regarding the significant difficulties in achieving accurate estimates of badger populations, Natural England will keep the minimum number under review and will, if appropriate, provide further advice on the level of culling effort and badger removal required to achieve an effective cull. Vets from AHVLA will carry out post-mortem examinations on at least 60 randomly-selected badgers from each cull area to assess accuracy of controlled shooting. These measures have been put in place to implement the recommendations made by the Independent Experts Panel following last year’s pilots. “Overseas experience shows a comprehensive strategy that also includes cattle movement controls and continuing to cull badgers in areas where the disease is rife is likely to be most effective in moving to eradicate TB in England,” a Defra spokesman said. “Ministers have downplayed the value of badger vaccination in recent years, in an attempt to boost support for a cull, and that negative messaging risks undermining the scheme even before it has begun,” said Mark Jones, veterinarian and executive director of HSI UK. “If DEFRA now wants to get buy-in from those same farmers for vaccination of badgers on their land, it needs to seriously change its rhetoric. “But more than that, it needs to promote badger vaccination in the high-risk areas where it will actually make the greatest difference. Refusing to support vaccination in precisely those areas where bovine TB is most problematic is nonsensical. So farmers in these areas deserve a vaccination scheme or they’re being left high and dry. “We know that indiscriminate culling of badgers won’t be effective. Last year’s cull was a waste of time, money and badgers’ lives that DEFRA seems sadly determined to repeat this year. Unlike the cull, science tells us that vaccinating even a modest proportion of badgers undoubtedly reduces the potential for TB to spread within badger populations and therefore back to

cattle.” “Bovine TB is a problem created by the farming industry,” said Jones. “So it’s time for farmers to take ownership of effective and humane solutions to their problem, instead of indiscriminately shooting badgers and by doing so potentially making the problem worse. Improving farm biosecurity and restricting cattle movements are crucial, but badger vaccination is also a very useful tool, so we encourage landowners and farmers to get proactively involved and push DEFRA to expand its funding to include high risk areas. All stakeholders – farmers, the tax payer and wildlife groups – have much to gain from a badger vaccination initiative, but it needs to be done intelligently otherwise all those same stakeholders will lose out.” “It is essential that Defra gets this right to allow the veterinary profession to have confidence that controlled shooting can be carried out humanely and effectively,” BVA President Robin Hargreaves said. “We continue to call upon the Secretary of State to put in place independent analysis of the second year of culling to give confidence to the wider public. “Badger culling is a necessary part of a comprehensive bovine TB eradication strategy that also includes strict cattle measures and vaccination. Culling remains a hugely emotive issue but we must tackle the disease in both cattle and wildlife. Scientific evidence supports the use of targeted, humane badger culling to achieve a reduction in the disease in cattle. “I’m proud that the veterinary profession has had such a significant influence on Defra’s position and we will continue to engage with the government to ensure the pilot culls are humane and effective.”

Incidents of Bovine TB in cattle fell in April to their lowest levels in almost ten years, according to the latest statistics from Defra.

The number of new herd incidents during the period January to April 2014 was 1,767 compared to 1,809 for January to April 2013. The number of tests on officially TB free herds was 31,287 during January to April 2014, compared to 29,526 during January to April 2013.

TB devastating farming families, say NFU as Labour pledges scrap

Page 6. Farming Express

Farming Express. Page 7

Biomass & Biogass Dairy Cattle

With a bumper harvest depressing ex-farm cereal prices, dairy farmers have a fantastic opportunity to make their own high energy, high protein concentrate feed for as little as £140 per tonne this winter.Speaking to farmers at the inaugural UK Dairy Day event, FiveF Alka Limited director and nutritionist

Malcolm Graham said developing ‘alkalising’ technology now allows dairy and beef producers to utilise very high levels of cost-effective cereals in winter diets without the risk of rumen acidosis.“Studies have shown that with the right presentation – such as has been developed with Alkagrain – cereals

can actually make up 70% of dairy cow concentrates and 94% of beef cattle concentrates.“Given wheat prices as low as £110 per tonne currently, it makes sense to turn this

attractively priced cereal into high energy Alkagrain of varying protein content governed by the concentration (between 3% and 15%) of proprietary high protein feed pellets mixed with the grain during processing. As a result farmers are now able to double or triple their standard cereal inclusion rate to deliver a high energy, rumen friendly feed at a range of protein levels for highly productive dairy cows. And this can all be done without the need for specialist storage or grain drying facilities.”Mr Graham also pointed out that farmers can make Alkagrain at any point during the year. “It is even feasible to process part of the purchased grain into an Alkagrain 150 concentrate and mix into simple

processed grain as required,” he added.“The key message for dairy farmers is that a high energy, 19% protein concentrate feed can be produced for less than £170 per tonne (including processing costs) – a considerable saving on the £240 to £260 per tonne feed that may have been bought in last winter (see supporting table),” he said.Wheat Alkagrain Options

Further information from: Malcolm Graham of FiveF Alka LimitedTel: 07989 985937OR VISIT THE FIVEF ALKA WEBSITE: www.fivefllp.com

Issued by David Butler, ABC Ltd. Tel: 07767 386401 E-mail: david@abccomms.co.uk

USE ATTRACTIVELY PRICED CEREALS TO MAKE YOUR OWN HIGH ENERGY/HIGH PROTEIN WINTER FEED

Page 8. Farming Express

Education & Training

Energy

A snap poll of leading figures from the education and training sector reveals the agricultural engineering industry is still finding it a challenge to attract trainers and lecturers into the industry.Alastair Taylor, CEO of the Institution of Agricultural Engineers, ( IAgrE), said, “We approached a variety of lecturers and technical training providers and asked them what’s the biggest issue facing training

and education in the agricultural engineering sector.”Clive Bound, Vice Principal of Easton and Otley College the specialist land-based college with campus in Suffolk and Norfolk said, “Finding good engineers to teach is probably my biggest challenge and could in the future have a major impact on our ability to deliver high quality courses.”

Polaris Ranger UTVs have built a solid reputation as solid, hard working and the smoothest riding of utility vehicles available with two passenger, full size and multi-passenger versions for farm, amenity and recreational use.

“There seems to be a shortage of new entrants, keen and willing to put in the effort required to succeed. In this modern age the image of agricultural engineering is not as good as it could be. This is a shame as the technology we are dealing with is now so far advanced that we are in some ways far ahead of other industries,” said Richard Jenkins, technical trainer at Babcock International.Summing up Jane Rickson, Professor of Soil Erosion and Conservation in Cranfield University’s Soil and

AgriFood Institute said, “We need to secure sustained funding of education and training from the Government, NGO’s and industrial sources. The reputation of the UK for agricultural engineering training and education is still high around the world, despite the recent decline in provision. Training overseas students can establish major relationships with developing countries and there is a real opportunity to rebuild this bridge to the benefit of the UK’s global development agenda.”

For 2015, seventy-five percent of the Ranger line-up receives performance upgrades and restyling, based on the line’s flagship the Ranger XP900. The first Rangers to receive the new treatment are the full-size Ranger Diesel and Ranger Diesel Crew.The Ranger Diesel is a favourite hard-working vehicle amongst farmers and anyone who uses diesel as a fuel source. The Ranger Diesel Crew has proved extremely popular with gamekeepers and shooting grounds as a very capable, go-anywher, six-seater 4x4. These new vehicles receive a new 3 cylinder, Tier

4 compliant Diesel engine and a double alternator output, with a massive 110 amps to power more accessories. One of the main features of the new Diesels is the LOCK & RIDE® Pro-Fit cab system which ensures an impeccable quality fit and finish, rugged durability and modularity, with ease of installation. Premium upgrades like interior liners, power windows, and tip out glass windshields give you the comfort you demand. This latest generation of Ranger Diesels shares the same attributes that made the Ranger XP 900 a premium choice in the Ranger line. Innovations such as a restyled cockpit, Dual A-Arm front

suspension, new flip-up seat storage, larger 10 gal/37.6 L fuel tank, easier serviceability and a quieter ride due to engine repositioning will make the Ranger Diesel and Ranger Diesel Crew even harder working and smoother riding work horses.

For 2015, all Full-Size vehicles will receive new intake openings, on the pillars behind the driver and passenger, allowing for improved airflow for the engine and clutch air intake systems. The Ranger Diesel and Ranger Diesel Crew will be available in Sage Green. Polaris Britain 0800 915 6720 www.polaris-britain.com

Where are tomorrow’s agricultural engineers?

New Polaris Ranger Diesels with handsome cab

Farming Express. Page 9

SecurityPage 10. Farming Express

Equestrian ServicesFarming Express. Page 11

Small HoldingPage 12. Farming Express

Signs of good Health Full bright and velvety ‘headgear’ ( comb & wattles ) Full, round and bright eyes, not sunken or cloudy Dry nostrils Good, smooth feathering with a shiny appearance Clean, fluffy feathers around the vent Neither thin or over-fat Steady respiration, no panting or wheezing Active, moving freely Laying well, and producing regular, perfect eggs Feeding adult hens: Layer pellets and ‘mash’ (designed to be dampened before feeding)

are specially formulated to provide all the energy and nutrients they need, but given the choice, most hens will chose to eat corn! So, give hens their ration of layer pellets in the morning (for a ‘utility’ type laying hen, allow approximately ¼ - ⅓ lb (or 130-150gms) per hen per day, and then offer corn in the afternoon. They’ll also appreciate plenty of ‘greens’ in their diet: lettuce, cabbage, and cucumber – anything fresh & juicy!

Commercial egg producers regularly weigh their hens, and this is a good practise to adopt; loss of weight can indicate ill health, while excess weight can predispose a hen to become ‘egg-bound’.

Check regularly for eggs, if left too long it may encourage egg pecking or eating – and once the habit is formed it’s very difficult to stop.

If you find soft-shelled eggs, or eggs with misshapen or rough shells, it may be a sign of nutritional imbalance, disease or stress.

Add a little Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) to the hen’s water – although disputed, many people claim that the acidity acts as a ‘tonic’ for the hens and aids digestion. It certainly won’t do them any harm, but always offer untreated water in another container in case any of the hens won’t drink the treated water. Add 2ml of ACV (use a syringe to measure accurately) to 1 litre of water in a plastic drinker (it will corrode metal).

If you like ‘natural remedies’, also offer the hens some garlic granules mixed with their layer or corn: garlic can act as a repellent to harmful gut worms, but don’t rely on it totally. Best practice is to carry out regular (4x per year would be about right) ‘faecal egg counts’ (FEC) to determine the parasite burden of your hens – your vet will explain how to collect a sample and will arrange for it to be tested in a laboratory, the result will indicate whether you need to use a worming product on your hens. Alternatively, you can use the excellent postal service provided by www.westgatelabs.co.uk/home-zone/news.htm

Garlic can also help repel flies – it’s not unknown for hens to be ‘struck’ by flies in warm weather: they lay eggs on mucky feathers, these then hatch into maggots which burrow into their flesh, producing toxins at the same time.

Keep grass mown short – long grass can obstruct their crop; and, by allowing the sun to penetrate the sward, parasite (worm) eggs are desiccated and killed (but you will still need to monitor your hens using Faecal EggCounts, and worming as necessary)

Try to rest at least part of their run for a few weeks on a rotation basis – this will help break the parasite life cycle

Spring is the ideal time to replace or increase your flock, and there are various ways to go about this: from buying ‘POL’ (point-of-lay) hens, to hatching eggs – from your own hens if you have a cockerel and a broody hen, or buying in fertile eggs to hatch in an incubator.

If you have a broody hen sitting on eggs: Keep a close eye on the calendar, hen’s eggs take 21 days to hatch Take her off the eggs at the same time each day for feeding Some people advocate not lifting the hen off her nest, preferring to

trust her instincts Allow her to feed for at least 20/30 minutes Make sure she has access to fresh water in the coop at all times While she is feeding, turn the eggs through 180 degrees

Check that the turf-base of the nest remains damp, but not soggy Caring for the broody hen:Firstly, keep a note of the date the hen starts to incubate her clutch of eggs (up to 11 for the larger breeds, maximum of 7 for smaller hens). During the process she’ll probably be reluctant to leave the nest, but it’s vitally important that she has the opportunity to eat, drink and defecate. Lift her gently off the nest, preferably at the same time each day, and don’t allow her to return for at least 20-30 minutes (some people advocate not lifting the hen off her nest, preferring to trust her instincts). Offer high-energy mixed grains and make sure that she defecates before returning to the nest to avoid soiling the eggs (and herself, which can lead to flies laying eggs around her vent, leading to ‘fly-strike’). Make sure she has access in the coop to clean, fresh water at all times. A sitting hen is more at risk from attack by red mites and lice, so give her access to a dust bath and treat with a proprietary insecticide to keep her free of parasites.

The hatching process:Egg incubation times vary slightly according to the size of egg: a large egg will take perhaps a day longer to hatch than a small egg. At around Day 18, you can lightly spray a little warm water onto the eggs; this can make it easier for the chicks to break through the shell. Keep a close eye on the calendar; you should expect to hear some cheeping by Day 20, this indicates that the chicks have pecked through to the air space at the blunt end of the egg. Within a further 6-10 hours, the chicks will have broken out of the shell. If a chick seems unable to manage by itself, it’s questionable whether it’s a good idea to help or not – more often than not, it will be a weak or malformed chick that may not survive. The newly hatched wet chick will quickly dry, and will be up and running and looking for food and water within minutes. It will need the hen for warmth, and hopefully she will fluff up her feathers and tuck them in around her.

Raising Healthy Chicks: Once the chicks have hatched their needs are pretty well the same

whether hatched by a broody hen or an incubator, though hopefully in the case of the hen, she will do most of the work!

Housing: A broody coop with a small mesh-covered run that can be moved regularly onto clean, fresh ground if the chicks are to be reared by the hen; a broody box if the chicks have been hatched in an incubator.

Temperature: The newly hatched chick needs warmth, firstly to dry its down to save getting chilled, and for the next 6 weeks at least, until it grows it’s own feathers. The mother hen will keep her chicks warm by gathering them under her warm down, the incubator chicks will need to be placed in a draught-free ‘brooder box’ where artificial heat is provided by a heat lamp (the ones that provide heat

without light are best, so the chicks become attuned to day and night rhythms) or heat pads. Make sure they’re not too hot (moving away from the heat source, gasping), or too cold (huddled tight together under the heat source, heads reaching up towards heat source.

Health Checks: As soon as the newly hatched chick has dried and fluffed up, it’s a good idea to quickly check that it has no deformities, things to look out for include: ‘Star-gazing’ this indicates a serious disease(Encephalamasia) from which the chick will not recover, so best to humanely cull; ‘Crooked Toes’ meaning the chick cannot stand properly, again, there is no remedy and culling is the best option; ‘Splay Legs’ may be caused by too slippery a surface, so provide a more secure flooring: clean shavings or fine wood-chip – if the chick is still doing the splits, gently tie a piece of soft wool around each leg with a link between.

Water: Use a small automatic waterer, never a dish that the chicks may fall into and become chilled. Chicks from an incubator should have their beaks dipped into the water; chicks reared by a hen will be taught to drink by the hen.

Feeding: The newly hatched chick can survive on the yolk sac for up to 48-hours, but offer chick crumbs soon after hatching. The mother hen will show them the food: she’ll scratch the food around, tempting them to eat. They should remain on chick crumbs for about 6-8 weeks, when they can start eating grower’s pellets and wheat (with mixed grit).

Growing on: As the incubator chicks outgrow their brooder box provide them with a larger area, but gradually reduce the heat as they ‘feather-up’ by raising the height of the heat lamp. Slowly adjust them to less heat by turning the lamp off during the warmest part of the day, and then remove it altogether. You will also need to accustom them to darkness at night if you’ve been using an infrared heat source. If you have an existing flock, it will be at least 6 months before your new ‘growers’ can be introduced. Chicks raised by a hen, however, can join the main flock at about 8-10 weeks, as she will protect them from bullying by the other hens.

When you are ready to introduce your newly fledged pullets to the flock, here are a few helpful hints for a successful integration: Protect from Disease Remember that the new pullets will be ‘naïve’ – meaning they have

no acquired resistance – to all the diseases that can affect chickens, so try to ensure they go onto clean ground that has not recently had chickens on it

Alternatively, or additionally, use a ground sanitising powder on a weekly basis

Keep a very close watch for any signs of illness (eg. loose droppings, ‘raspy’ breathing) and investigate any problems immediately

Red miteAlthough the cold weather will have given your chickens a welcome relief from red mite (although they can still be present in the coop, they won’t be breeding at this time of year), lice can still be a problem. As lice live on the chickens (feeding on dead skin and feather debris) throughout their life cycle, they aren’t bothered by the cold weather, and will reproduce even at this time of year, causing irritation to their host. To check whether this is a problem in your flock, pick up one of the

hens and gently part the feathers (on the back and under the wings) to expose the skin; you’ll see lice as small 1-3mm yellowish-grey insects which will scurry away from the light.

Next, look around the vent area, where if mites are present, you’ll find their eggs (‘nits’) in clumps at the base of the feathers.

To treat, use louse powder (which most usually contains Pyrethrum) all over the bird, parting the feathers as you go.

Treat all birds in the house at the same time, and repeat weekly for at least 4 weeks as their breeding cycle, from egg to adult, is 3 weeks.

An alternative, organic, treatment is to use diatomaceous earth, applied to the chickens in the same way as louse powder.

If you continue to have problems, your vet can prescribe an Ivermectin based treatment (eg. Frontline) that you apply to the back of the bird’s neck, but do be aware that this product is not licensed for use in poultry, and you will probably need to discard eggs for the duration of treatment.

Once you have cleared up the infestation, provide your hens with a dust bath, which will enable them to keep free from external parasites naturally, and enjoy the process at the same time!

Bullying or Making New Friends! An established flock of hens has a ‘pecking order’ and will often

bully newcomers, especially if they are smaller than themselves In an ideal world, the new pullets should be reared separately

from the main flock until they have grown to the same size as the established flock, and then carefully introduced

In all events, plan to introduce them in a way so that they can see one another, but not have physical contact: one way of achieving this is to construct a wire mesh enclosure for the new birds inside the existing run

Provide a suitable coop to house them in the separate run, and the two groups will gradually get used to one another

When you want the new birds to join the existing flock, wait for them all to roost, then carry the new hens into the henhouse and gently pop

them onto a perch – in the morning the established hens tend not to notice that there are more hens in the house

Let the newly-enlarged flock out at daybreak (as soon as they become active) so they are all outside with space for the new pullets to escape if one of the older hens tries to bully

Make sure there is plenty of room in the henhouse – don’t overcrowd as this is a recipe for bullying

Provide more than one feeding and watering station so there is less competition

Hang several tit-bits, such as greens or cucumbers, in different places around the run to distract the birds

There will still be a bit of ‘hen-pecking’ to establish the ‘pecking order’, but this should settle down in a few days

Be vigilant for serious bullying: once a hen draws blood, she will often go into a pecking frenzy and do serious damage, or even kill her victim – so remove the injured bird as quickly as possible, and try again in a few days time

Free-Ranging Hens This is without a doubt the most natural way to keep hens – as long

as you can protect them from predators In reality, true ‘free-ranging’ is often not possible, but make as much

space for your flock as possible and then the newly-introduced hens can run away from the bullies and a ‘hen community’ will establish itself more easily

The Annual MoultEach year chickens will change their feathers; this is called the ‘annual moult’ and usually happens during the months of August and September for spring-hatched chickens, and perhaps not until October for those hatched in the autumn. Some hens will moult at other times of the year, and this is often a sign of stress, poor nutrition or an underlying health problem. A good layer tends to loose more of her feathers in a shorter timescale than a fat bird who produces fewer eggs. The moult is important to the chicken, as having strong plumage helps enable them to withstand harsh winter conditions. Controlled MoultingA young hen in good condition will usually complete the moult in about six weeks, whereas an older bird, or one who is over or underweight, may take as long as three months during which her health will be under par. The heavier breeds, such as the Sussex or Rhode Island Red tend to take longer to complete their moult than the lighter breeds.The moult is a stressful time for birds, and for the owner it usually means a temporary halt to egg laying. Therefore, it’s generally believed that the sooner it’s over and done with and the chickens can re-feather, the better. This means you won’t have bare birds during the cold winter months!Often, the hens will just start by loosing a few feathers. At this stage you can help to accelerate the process by cutting back on both the quantity (by up to a half) and the protein content of their feed. For example, if they are on a layer’s ration, substitute up to half of this with plain oats, which are lower in protein. Then, when the hens are in full moult, feathers are falling like autumn leaves and you can see the new feathers starting to come through, increase the quantity and quality of their feed: they will need first-class rations, including lots of greens (lettuce, cabbage, kale, etc. – these all contain vitamins and minerals) to help them grow strong new feathers. You can also add a little cod-liver oil to a proprietary layers mash, or add linseed and hempseed – these oils and oilseeds are high in calories.Once the hens are fully re-feathered, return them to their usual rations, otherwise they may become overfat, which is as unhealthy for chickens as it is for us!

Should I keep a Cockerel?The Pros Breeding: a cockerel will fertilise your hen’s eggs to provide

replacements, this is cheaper than buying POL (point of lay) hens, or buying fertile eggs to hatch in an incubator

If your hens are free range, the cockerel will tend to keep the flock together and warn of any danger from predators, but there is little evidence that a cockerel is willing or able to protect the flock from rats, foxes, stoats, and other predators

And finally, a cockerel will make a fine Sunday lunch if you later decide you have make a mistake!

The Cons All cockerels, once they reach maturity, will crow in the early hours

of the morning; in summer, this can be as early as 4a.m. If you live in a remote area and are an early riser, this will not be a problem. However, most of us have neighbours and should consider their feelings on this matter! There are numerous cases of poultry-keepers being prosecuted and fined for noisy cockerels.

If you only have a few hens, a young testosterone-fuelled male will be constantly ‘treading’ the hens, which can cause feather loss and even damage to the ‘saddle’ area. It’s recommended to have a minimum cockerel to hen ratio of 1:6 and for the male to be of a similar breed and size to the hens

A cockerel’s spurs may need trimming to prevent damage to hens – if you can catch and securely hold him, this is a simple job (you can use dog toenail clippers and a nail file, but beware of cutting too far as this will bleed profusely)

If you decide to keep a cockerel to fertilise eggs, there is no guarantee that your chap will be fertile

A mature cock will be a large, heavy bird with male characteristics, for example, he may be aggressive to humans and frighten young children

Keeping more than one cockerel is possible, providing you have enough hens, but they can fight; if you have more than one, they should be of an equal size

If you do decide you have the right environment to keep a cockerel, make sure you choose one that is not too heavy for your hens, for example, don’t put a large fowl onto bantam hens.

And finally, if you are offered a ‘free’ male bird by a breeder, it is not likely to be the best example of the breed, and if you do plan to breed, you should always use the best genetics possible

Basic Principles of Rearing and Management of ChickensFarming Express. Page 13