FASH 15 textiles

bast fibers

bast fibers

bast fibers come from the stem of the plant, near the outer edge

harvested:•by hand where labor is cheap•by pulling up entire plant (10% longer than cut)

•by cutting as close to the ground as possible

after harvesting:•seeds removed using a rippling machine•retting decomposes pectin holding fibers together•woody portion is removed by scutching•short and irregular fibers removed by hackling

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCJQCWDIozk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwfIhPAcrcU&NR=1

flax

one of the oldest documented textile fibers—Egyptian tombs more than 3000 years old

prestige fiber due to limited production & relatively high cost—linen

most flax is produced in Western Europe:•Belgium•France•Italy•Ireland

• United Kingdom• Germany• The Netherlands• Switzerland

flax—structure

individual fiber cells—ultimates—are spindle-shaped with pointed ends and a central lumen

primary fiber averages 5.0-21.5 inches in length & 12-16 micrometers in diameter

can be identified microscopically by crosswise markings—nodes or joints

cross-section is many-sided or polygonal with round edges

flax—structure

fibers are slightly grayish when dew retted; more yellow when water retted

stronger than cotton due to highly oriented molecular structure

similar to cotton in chemicalComposition—71% cellulose

short flax fibers are called tow

long, combed, better-quality fibers are called line

flax—aesthetics

flax has a high natural luster that is softened by its irregular fiber bundles—luster can be increased by flattening

stiffer in drape and harsher in hand than cotton—finishes can produce softer, more drapeable fabrics

flax—durability

strong for a natural fiber—higher breaking tenacity when wet

•very low elongation •elasticity is poor•stiff fiber

repeatedly folding a linen in the same place will cause fabric to break

nodes contribute to flexibility but are the weakest part of the fiber

flax—comfort & care

•high moisture regain of 12%—absorbent •good conductor of heat

better for hot or cool weather?•resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, & high temps•can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed & bleached with chlorine bleach

for upholstery & wall coverings, careful steam cleaning is recommended to avoid shrinkage

•low resiliency—often require pressing•more sunlight resistant than cotton•store dry otherwise will mildew

flax—environmental concerns/sustainability

less of an environmental impact than cotton

requires fewer chemicals & seldom irrigated

pulling plants at harvest contributes to soil erosion

depending upon retting practiced, disposal of chemicals & contaminated water are of concern—dew & enzyme retting are more sustainable than water retting

hand labor needs to be monitored to avoid exploitation of workers

flax—identification

burns readily in manner similar to cotton

fiber length is easy way to differentiate between cotton & flax—cotton seldom longer than 2.5 inches; flax almost always longer than that

soluble in strong acids

http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_1/u_1_5.html

flax—uses

used in bed, table, and bath items for residential & commercial use as well as apparel & technical products

ideal for wall coverings up to 120 inches wide due to irregular texture which:•adds visual interest•hides nail holes•wall damage•muffles noise

used in upholstery & window treatments due to:•durability•interesting & soil-hiding textures•versatility

flax—uses

linen apparel includes items for:•warm-weather use•high fashion•casual•professional wear

technical products include: •luggage•bags•purses•sewing thread

ramie

also known as rhea, grasscloth, China grass, Army/Navy cloth—used for several thousand years in China

ramie plant is a tall perennial shrub—requires hot, humid climate—cut, not pulled

fast-growing & can be harvestedas frequently as every 60 days

separated from stalk by decortication—bark & woody stalk separated from fiber— became more commercially important once mechanized

ramie

•relatively inexpensive•can be cottonized and blends well with other fibers

produced in China, Brazil, the Phillipines, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, & India

must be degummed by boiling in weak alkaline solution to remove wax & pectin and separate fiber bundles

ramie—properties

white, long, fine fiber with a silklike luster

similar to flax in absorbency, density & microscopic appearance

because of high molecular crystallinity and orientation, ramie is stiff and brittle

like flax, will break if folded repeatedly in same place—lacks resiliency, low in elasticity & elongation potential

ramie—properties

one of the strongest natural fibers know—strength increases when wet

resistant to insects, rotting, mildew & shrinkage

absorbency is good, does not dye as well as cotton—can be mercerized to enhance dye absorbency

does not retain color well unless it is dry-cleaned

ramie—uses

used in many imported apparel items—sweaters, shirts, blouses & suits

important in interiors for window treatments, pillows & table linens

often blended with other natural fibers

used in ropes, twines, nets, banknotes, cigarette paper, and geotextiles for ground-cover fabrics (erosion control)

hemp

resembles flax in macroscopic & microscopic appearance—some varieties very difficult to distinguish from flax

hemp is coarser & stiffer than flax—processing & cottonizing minimizes these differences

hemp fibers can be very long—3-15 feet

processed similar to flax with similar environmental issues—depending on processing, fiber may be creamy white, brown, gray, almost black, or green

78% cellulose & can be machine washed and dried

hemp

plant produces 3 types of fibers:•bast fibers from outer region—longest & finest; most often used in 100% hemp and blend fabrics with linen, cotton or silk for apparel & interiors•inner two fibers are shorter & most often used in nonwovens & other technical applications•innermost woody core fibers are used for mulch and pet & animal bedding

resistant to ultraviolet light, mold & rotting

high strength makes it particularly suitable for twine, cordage & thread

fell out of popularity in 40s due to drug regulations—new varieties grown for fiber have less than 1% THC

hemp

used for some apparel & interiors—found in hats, shirts, shoes, backpacks, t-shirts & jeans

environmentally friendly—•does not require pesticides; grows so quickly that it smothers weeds•root systems minimize soil erosion•20-30% of plant is fiber—produces 250% more than cotton; 600% more than flax on same land•being grown on land to extract pollutants—zinc, mercury

most imported from China & Philippines; also grown in Italy, France, Chile, Russia, Poland, India & Canada

jute

61% cellulose—one of cheapest & weakest natural fibers—primary fibers in bundle are short & brittle

grown throughout Asia, chiefly India & Bangladesh

creamy white to brown in color—white, soft, lustrous & pliable when first removed from stalk; quickly turns brown, weak & brittle

used to produce sugar & coffee bagging, carpet backing, rope, cordage, & twine—facing strong competition from olefin

deteriorates quickly when exposed to water; low sunlight resistance; poor colorfastness

kenaf

soft bast fiber from kenaf plant

fiber is long, light yellow to gray and harder & more lustrous than jute

like jute, used for twine, cordage & other technical purposes

produced in Central Asia, India, Africa, & some Central American countries

being investigated by researchers as paper fiber source & in blends with cotton

hibiscus

from same general botanical family as cotton—grows as a tall shrub in tropical & subtropical regions

commercially grown & used for clarifying sugar cane juice—waste material studied for fiber potential

retting is required to extract fiber from plant stem

can be bleached; has good fastness when dyed with direct dyes

stronger than jute—has potential for use in bags, rugs & some apparel items when used in blends

nettle

two types—Himalayan giant nettle plant or stinging nettle

hollow fiber look and feels similar to raw flax—has good insulating characteristics

perennial that grows without use of fertilizers or pesticides—studied as potentially sustainable fiber

used for technical products like bags & ropes as well as apparel & interior textiles

48% cellulose—similar in shape to ramie but stronger; coarser than jute

bamboo

two types—one removed from above-ground stems; other regenerated from bamboo pulp (ch. 7)

naturally resistant to microbes; absorbent; coarse hand

not usually found in apparel or interiors

type of grass—grows quickly without use of chemicals

most harvested regularly from managed farms—does not threaten wild bamboo forests or natural habitats

leaf fibers

obtained from leaf of a plant—fiber is split or pulled from leaf during processing

most are long and stiff and have limited dye affinity

pina

from leaves of pineapple plant—fiber is soft, lustrous & white or ivory

highly susceptible to acids & enzymes—hand washing is recommended

fiber produces lightweight, sheer, stiff fabrics—often embroidered

used for formal & wedding wear in Philippines, also to make mats, bags, table linens & other apparel

current research aimed at making a pina fiber that blends well and is commercially competitive

abaca

comes from member of banana tree family

fibers are coarse, very long—up to 15 feet, strong, durable & flexible

off-white to brown in color

used for ropes, cordage, floor mats, table linens, some wicker furniture and apparel

produced in Central America and the Philippines

sisal & henequen

closely related plants grown in Africa, Central America, and the West Indies

fibers are smooth, straight and yellow

used for better grades of rope, twine and brush bristles—degraded by salt water

Sisal is used for upholstery, wall coverings, carpet & custom rugs—provides interesting textures for many interior styles

used in blends with wool & acrylic for a softer hand

dry extraction cleaning is recommended—tends to shed & fade; absorbs waterborne stains

other cellulosic materials

used in accent rugs due to resistance to heat & soil:•rush—stems of marsh plant•sea grass—from China & Vietnam•maize—cornhusks

rush & palm fiber seat are used on chairs

wooden slats & grasses used in window coverings

grasses are used in wallcoverings

wicker furniture is made from tightly twisted paper yarns, rattan, sea grass, abaca, and raffia

bacteria cellulose is used in medicine as a covering for sever burns & other skin injuries