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EVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION

Recognize the relationship between historical events and fashion evolution.

Mood in 40's

World War II

Women re-entered the workforce

Parisian Fashion houses closed their doors due to German invasion of Paris

American fashion designers emerged

Shorter skirts

Sloppy Joe sweaters

Bikini introduced

Mood in 40's

World War II (cont.)

L-85 (General Limitations Order) restricted amount of fabric used in production of apparel.

Designers had to create fashions that would remain stylish through multiple seasons.

A new style of suits for women had short skirts and short jackets of twenty-five inches or less in length.

Sheath evening dresses replaced the long flowing gowns of the thirties.

Mood in 40's

World War II (cont.)

Restrictions limited use of silk, wool, rubber, metal

Tailored masculine-looking suit

The young danced the jitterbug.

Mood in 40's

World War II (cont.)

Postwar fashion freedom

Women wanted a return to more feminine designs.

Christian Dior introduced the New Look with rounded shoulders, fuller bustlines, and fuller skirts fifteen inches off the ground.

Paris was re-established as the center of the fashion world.

People who influenced fashion

Christian Diordesigner of the New Look; first to license name

Norman Norrellwinner of the first Coty American Fashion Critics Award; founder of CFDA

Cristobal Balenciagaknown for huge evening coats, long, full skirts, pillbox hats, and chemise dresses

Mood in 50's

Korean War

Color television introduced

Rock-n-Roll explosion

Teenagers emerged as a fashion voice.

Leather jackets and T-shirts with the sleeves rolled up

White shirts and blue jeans

Letter sweaters

Beatniks

American Bandstand

Elvis Presley appeared on The Ed Sullivan Show.

Mood in 50's (cont.)

Moving to the suburbs

Sportswear emerges

Pedal pushers, slacks, halters, shirtwaist dresses

Cashmere sweaters with a matching scarf

Poodle skirts

Single-breasted jackets, narrow lapels, and natural shoulders

Tapered trousers and penny loafers

Shopping malls are built.

Mood in 50's (cont.)

Ivy League look

Men wore neat single-breasted jackets with narrow lapels, pressed trousers, with white, yellow, or pale blue button-down collared shirts, and ties.

Female students dressed in twin sweater sets, or Peter-Pan collared blouses and sweaters, with pencil-slim or pleated skirts.

Mood in 50's (cont.)

Hairstyles

Girls wore ponytails early in the decade. Later, the beehive was popular.

Boys trained their hair into greased-back ducktails and carried a comb at all times.

Mood in 50's (cont.)

Shoes and accessories

Two-toned bucks

Bobby socks

People who influenced fashions

Designer influence was significant

Diorthe A-line silhouette for women

Givenchythe chemise or sack dress

Claire McCardellsashes, harem pajamas, bias-cut, dartless clothes

Mood in 60's

Civil Rights Movement

Black Pride

The Afro

African prints

Dashiki: A loose, brightly-colored African tunic.

Mood in 60's (cont.)

Youthquake Revolution

Youth take ownership of the decade

Mod look: Clothing with psychedelic colors and geometric designs.

Go-Go Look with mini skirts, white go-go boots

Mood in 60's (cont.)

Election of John F. Kennedy

Youngest president in history

The bare-headed President Kennedy begins the demise of the mens hat industry.

First Lady Jackie Kennedy is the fashion icon of the decade wearing Chanel suits and simple dresses, pillbox hat, pearls, and low-heeled shoes.

Mood in 60's (cont.)

Man walks on the moon

Pierre Cardin and Andr Courreges are called the space age designers.

Space age and futuristic looks appear on high fashion runways.

Mood in 60's (cont.)

Onset of the womens liberation movement

See through blouses, no bra

Unisex look

Pantyhose introduced (Glen Raven Mills, NC, 1959)

Mood in 60's (cont.)

Anti-war movement (Vietnam)

Hippie look, suede fringe jackets, appliqud bell-bottom trousers, tie-dyed shirts, love beads, granny glasses, and peace symbols.

Woodstock Festival

People who influenced fashions

Decreased designer influence

Mary QuantLondon designer who introduced the miniskirt

Twiggyskinny British model who became the top model of the sixties

Emilio Pucciexotic, psychedelic, beautiful prints

Yves St. Laurentfresh approach to fashion with Mondrian-inspired shift dress

Jackie Kennedy

Audrey Hepburnclassics such as the little black dress

Mood in 70's

Watergate Scandal

Vietnam war ends

Dawn of the Disco, Studio 54, Saturday Night Fever

John Travoltas white suit with an open-necked shirt.

Platform shoes

Bell-bottom hip-hugger pants

Hot pants with white go-go boots

Mood in 70's

Punk Rock, short-lived anti-social and anti-fashion movement

Torn, frayed clothing

Body piercing

Spiked hair colored pink or green

T-shirts being worn as billboards

Political statement designs

Mood in 70's

Rap and hip-hop emerge

Athletic clothes

Track suits

Excessive amounts of gold jewelry

Mood in 70's

Ethnic influence

Macram bags

Crochet waistcoats and shawls

Ponchos

Gypsy tops with gathered necklines trimmed with bells and puffed sleeves

Nehru jackets

Mood in 70's

Me decade, self indulgence

String bikini

Tight clothes

Mens leisure suits

Designer jeans

Hand-braided friendship bracelets

Mood in 70's

Feminism, sexual equality, womens lib, equal rights

Bra burning

Women no longer wear girdles

Women buy pantyhose

Women wear pants and pantsuits

Double-knit polyester man-made fabrics

Micro, mini, midi, and maxi skirts

Mood in 70's

Shoes

Platforms

Clogs

Movies and their stars

Annie Hallwomen wearing oversize mens shirts, very long skirts, khaki pants, and mens hats

Greaseleather motorcycle jackets

Mood in 70's

Television

Charlies AngelsFarrah Fawcett Majors hair style and flared trousers

Happy DaysFonzies leather jacket, jeans, white shirt

Dukes of HazzardDaisy Dukes cutoff jean shorts

People who influenced fashion

Yves Saint Laurentwomenswear based on menswear

Halstonuse of cashmere

Calvin Kleindenim jeans

Mary McFaddenfine pleating

Bill Blasssporty, sophisticated classics

Mood in 80's

Excess

Shoulder pads, retro 1940s

Big hair

Brand names appeared on outside of garment

Mood in 80's (cont.)

MTV

Music becomes visual

Videos become a major influence on apparel choices

Lace tops, tight skirts

Bustier worn by Madonna

Mood in 80's (cont.)

Television influence

Dallasjeans, boots, western shirts, and cowboy hat

Dynastywide shoulder silhouettes

Miami Vice T-shirts worn under Armani suits, pastel colors for men

General Hospital Luke and Laura

Lady Diana Spencer weds Prince Charles

Dianas wedding dress becomes one of the most copied in the world

Mood in 80's (cont..)

Workout craze, Jane Fonda

Legwarmers, leotards, sneakers

Nike, Reebok

Women left their high-heels at home and wore sneakers to work

Introduction of the thong bikini

Stirrup pants

Warm-up suits

Flashdanceincreased the popularity of legwarmers, sweatshirt fabric, and sweatshirts with cut out necks

Mood in 80's (cont.)

Punk

Dog collars

Mohawk hairstyles

Leather jackets and chains

Mood in 90's

Sandra Day OConnorfirst woman on Supreme Court

AIDS first identified

Collapse of the Soviet Union and the expansion of overseas companies

Mood in 90's (cont.)

Longest bull market in Wall Street history

More luxurious fashions are introduced as people have more money to spend.

More luxurious fabrics enter the market.

Mood in 90's (cont.)

Casual Fridaykhakis, polos, loafers, jeans with company T-shirts worn to work

Internet

Finger-tip access to global fashion information

Online shopping

Mood in 90's (cont.)

Street Fashions

Hip-Hop style

Jeans, logo T-shirts, windbreakers, all oversized

Body piercing

Tattooing

Doc Martens

Backpack purses

Mood in 90's (cont.)

Megabrands

Youthquake with Tommy Hilfiger

FUBU

Banana Republic

J. Crew

Old Navy, The Gap, Abercrombie and Fitch

Tweens (8 to 12 years old), Gap Kids, Limited Too

Mood in 90's (cont.)

Womens competitive and adventure sportsExample: WNBA

Athletic shoes

Sports bras

People who influenced fashion

Princess Dianamost photographed woman ever

Tommy Hilfigerbrand image designer

Gianni Versacedesigner with rock star