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AN LANNTAIR - STORNOWAY - ISLE OF LEWIS
FèisClò MòrTHE HARRIS TWEED F ESTIVAL
2016
KENNETH MACKENZIE LTD [email protected]
Kenneth Mackenzie Ltd is the oldest mill producing the hand woven Harris Tweed
fabric established in 1906.
Recently re-equipped with considerable amounts of new machinery the company
offers a limited range of designs for delivery from stock thus complimenting the other
mills who offer a bespoke range of Harris Tweed designs.
HARRIS TWEED ISLE OF HARRISCaberfeidh, Tarbert, Isle of Harris, HS3 3DJ
Tel: 01859502040 Email: [email protected]
Website: www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk
Harris Tweed Isle of Harris and Harris Tweed and Knitwear are the continuation of a family tradition.
One of the largest stockists of Harris Tweed products on the Island providing clothing,
accessories and a selection of gifts provided by local crafters. Just a few miles away is ‘Clo Mor’ our exhibit centre showing how the cloth has
evolved from traditional uses to high fashion today.
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25 North BeachStornowayIsle of LewisScotland, UKHS1 2XQ
t: +44 (0) 1851 700 046e: [email protected]
WOVEN BY HAND
IN THE OUTER HEBRIDES OF SCOTLAND
harristweedhebrides.com
THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL
Harris Tweed is one of the most desirable textiles in the world. It is a product like no other – uniquely protected by its own act of Parliament ‘The Harris Tweed Act of 1993’ and manufactured by the same artisan skills now as by our island forefathers over a hundred years ago, it is an industry, it is a work of craftsmanship, it is part of our culture.
The contrast between the simple, elemental origins of the cloth and the opulent, international market it reaches makes for a fascinating story and it is one we never tire of telling as we travel the world to promote Harris Tweed. But as every traveller knows, there is nothing quite like coming home and The Harris Tweed Festival 2016 gives us a very special opportunity to celebrate all that Harris Tweed is right here in its heartland. The Festival, conceived by An Lanntair as part of the Bealach Creative Place programme and 2016 Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design, will bring together a host of different activities, events and people involved in every aspect of the industry. We are delighted to be part of this and very much hope you enjoy visiting the exhibitions, taking part in the workshops, joining in with the Festival Day, taking the tours, listening to the stories and learning about the heritage of this solely distinctive product in what will truly be an ard-fheill na Clò Mòr.
Norman L. MacdonaldChair, The Harris Tweed Authority
Bealach: Creative Place Awards
Bealach; a Gaelic word originally meaning ‘route or pass’ which has come through time to signify a passage for travellers, through land or sea, essentially describing the process of moving through.
In 2015 a bid from the Outer Hebrides was awarded the top level Creative Place accolade by Creative Scotland in recognition of our thriving arts and culture. Championed by a dynamic partnership led by An Lanntair Arts Centre, the win awarded £125K funding towards the unique ‘Bealach’ project and recognised the breadth of our local artistic work and creative activity.
Bealach focuses on making a way in to new cultural experiences rooted in the rich heritage of the Gaidhealtachd and takes place across the Isle of Lewis and Harris.
The project is enabling innovative artist residencies; world class Gaelic music; public art; trails, tours and exhibitions as well as The Festival of Harris Tweed. There are linked workshops and outreach activities throughout the programme, a range of events linking in to the community and targeted support for the development of creative skills which will add to the rich seam of talent running through the islands.
For more information please visit: www.lanntair.com/bealach Phot
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EDUCATION & OUTREACH PROGRAMME
Laxdale choir singing waulking songs with people living with dementia though An Lanntair’s Arora creative care project. Autumn term schools projects - writer DS Murray will work in classes teaching poetry relating to his book Weaving Songs and there will be a series of kinetic sculpture workshops relating to ‘Am Beart’, the exhibition by Russian artist collective Sharmanka reconstructing a Hattersley loom.
For more information and to book your tickets, please visit www.lanntair.comor call 01851 708480
School based workshops on the history & story of Harris Tweed. An introduction to the processes & principles of textile weaving; activities will include basic weaving, colour matching the natural environment & yarns, plus the creation of ‘Orbs’ to be exhibited in An Lanntair.
One week dance & performance project for young people. Daily contemporary dance sessions, leading to a performance in An Lanntair. Inspired by Ian Lawson’s ‘From the Land’ participants will learn about choreography & create their own unique dance material.
Young people will learn how to create a colour palette & weave their own cloth using table looms. Inspired by Ian Lawson’s photography of Hebridean landscapes & using yarns supplied from local Harris Tweed mills they will experience step-by-step how fabric is constructed.
Young people will use a favourite Hebridean landscape to inspire the customising of a garment. Using Harris Tweed, trims & found objects they will create multi-textured individual pieces.
An introduction to the basic principles & processes of hand weaving. Participants will learn to weave on table looms & use a variety of techniques, patterns & colour combinations to design & produce their own small piece of fabric. No prior weaving experience necessary.
Learn how to make a pair of Harris Tweed wrist cuffs and embellish them in your own style. Basic sewing skills required, all materials supplied.
Drop-in Workshops. Children & families can join in fun and creative Harris Tweed related activities throughout the Festival Day. Take part in the Human Loom, try our Harris Tweed dressing-up box, make your own Tweed Orb, do some shoebox weaving or bag decoration.
6th – 24th June Lewis & Harris SCHOOLSJane Hepburn, The Harris Tweed Authority & Sandra Kennedy, ArtistFree to attend Available in English or Gaelic
Mon 4th – Friday 8th July 10am – 5pm daily Performance 6pm, Fri 8th July £30Hebrides Dance & Wellbeing Studio / An Lanntair Julia McGhee, Dance Tutor
Thurs 4th August – age 10 - 13 10am to 1pm or 2pm to 5pm £6Fri 5th August – age 14 – 18 10am – 4pm £10Sheilagh Tacey, Textile Designer & Weaver
Saturday 6th August – age 14+10am to 4pm £10 An Lanntair Rosie Wiscombe, Designer and Maker, By Rosie
Mon 8th to Wed 10th August10am – 5pm An Lanntair Heather Shields, Textile Designer & Weaver £130 / £110 (concession)
Fri 12th August, 1pm – 5pm£16 / £14 concession Netty Sopata, Designer & Maker, Diggory Brown.
Saturday 13th August. Hourly sessions beginning on the hour from 10am to 3pm. An Lanntair, Community Room & Education Room Free to attend
Orb it: Clò Mòr schools workshops
Summer Youth Dance Intensive
Weaving in Colour
Individualisedin the Hebrides
Introduction to Weaving
Harris Tweed Wrist Cuffs
The Harris Tweed Festival Day:
Other workshops and activities will take place into the autumn:
THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY
Saturday 13th August 2016 10:00 Harris Tweed Bike Ride launches the day’s activities. Departs An Lanntair for circular route
through Stornoway town; don your tweeds, make a donation to a local charity and pedal your bicycle all in the name of fun. Booking for the Harris Tweed Bike Ride is essential, please book via www.lanntair.com
An Lanntair AuditoriumFree All Day Programme, no booking required.
10:00 A selection of films will set the scene for the day Please see main programme for details.
10:45 Welcome to the Festival Day Norman L. Macdonald, Chair of Harris Tweed Authority
11:00 Pre Harris Tweed: The Beginning of Weaving in the Outer Hebrides Dr Mary Macleod-Rivett
11:30 Borve Harris (circa 1930). David Fradgley archive filmThe Western Isles (1941). Terry Bishop archive film
12:00 The Islanders and the Orb Mrs Janet Hunter
12:30 Island of the Big Cloth (1971), archive film
13:00 The Industry in the 20th Century Panel discussion chaired by Alasdair Macleod
13:45 Laxdale Choir – Waulking Group
14.00 The Fabric of Fashion (2016), Harris Tweed Hebrides, short film Harris Tweed in the Global Market Place Margaret A. Macleod, Brand Development Director, Harris Tweed Hebrides
14:45 Sandra Murray Loves Wool Sandra Murray MBE
15:30 Harris Tweed (Kenneth Mackenzie Mill) 1977. Archie Ferguson archive film
16:00 Spinning Yarns – tales from the working life of Harris Tweed Stornoway Historical Society
17:20 Sharmanka Preview, short film A taster of the forthcoming An Lanntair exhibition by the world famous Russian artist collective which will close the Harris Tweed Festival in November.
17:30 Fashion Showcase event A catwalk show, co-ordinated in partnership with the Nicolson Institute and featuring
unique and vintage garments alongside work from designers and makers working in the islands today.
Plus: Main exhibition, ‘From the Land’ by Ian Lawson Themed children’s workshops and family activities throughout the day Displays and information across the building Live music and cèilidh event through the evening until late.
Please note timings of some events may be subject to slight delay depending on activity on the day.
Norman L. Macdonald is the Chair of The Harris Tweed Authority, the pub-lic body established by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 to act as guardian of the Orb trademark, protecting and promoting the brand worldwide. Norman is a local businessman who is involved in many diverse aspects of the local community.
Fiona Mackenzie will be your host for the Harris Tweed Festival Day. A singer, musician, respected broadcast presenter and the face of BBC ALBA, Fiona was born and brought up in the islands to a rich Gaelic cultural tradition and is herself the daughter of a Harris Tweed weaver.
Mary Macleod-Rivett is an Archaeology Lecturer at Lews Castle College UHI, specialising in the Viking and later archaeology of the North Atlantic, she is also a consultant archaeologist. Previously the Western Isles Archaeologist for Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, Mary now divides her time between lecturing, research, commercial contracts, tour guiding, crofting and has an active interest in textiles and textile working.
Janet Hunter was born and raised on the Isle of Lewis and now lives in Aberdeen. She is the author of ‘The islanders and the Orb’ which is considered to be the definitive and most comprehensive account ever written of the Harris Tweed industry. The book makes an important contribution to the social and economic history of the islands by showing the struggle the people of the Outer Hebri-des had, to retain the commercial value of the name, “Harris Tweed”. Meticulously researched, intricate and changing circumstances in the history of the industry are made immensely readable; the book is of great interest to anyone interested in the place of Harris Tweed on the stage of international modern trends.
Alasdair Macleod is the Vice-Chair of the Harris Tweed Authority and is very active in the cultural life of the islands including chairing the Comhairle’s Sustainable Development Committee. On the Festival Day Alasdair will chair a panel of individ-uals who know Harris Tweed well, drawing out their comments and observations on the long and winding journey the industry has taken and their personal views on why it is such and iconic product.
Formed in 1951 for the love of Gaelic song the Laxdale Choir are known and respected internationally. Their performance group who re-enact the tradition of ‘waulking the Harris Tweed cloth’ are part of Festival Day and the workshop programme. Before the days of machinery the stiff cloth that came off the loom would be manually ‘waulked’ to soften and tighten it ready for use. This was women’s work, often laborious and requiring a steady pace and so the women would sing, rhythmic, often energetic songs to lift the spirit and ease the work.
THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY
Margaret Ann Macleod, Brand Development Director with Harris Tweed Hebrides, Shawbost, has worked for the Mill for the past 4 years, having previous-ly worked in textile manufacturing and retail head office for companies including Johnstons of Elgin and Arcadia PLC. A native of Lewis, Margaret Ann returned to the island over 10 years ago.
Harris Tweed Hebrides was established in 2007, at a time when the Harris Tweed industry was at its lowest ebb in decades. Harris Tweed is once again a famous British fashion brand, known globally for quality, colour, provenance and a rich textile heritage. The team at the Shawbost Mill, supported by the local weavers, have worked tirelessly over the past 9 years to bring back an almost forgotten industry. Harris Tweed Hebrides now directly employ almost 90 people and provide weaving to over 140 independent weavers located across our island communities. Margaret Ann will explore in more detail the current international market place for Harris Tweed, providing a unique insight into the world of Harris Tweed Hebrides.
Couturier Sandra Murray MBE will offer an exclusive and fascinating insight into the world of couture and the life of an independent designer whose creative identity is rooted in the Highlands and Islands, it’s colours and fabrics, but who maintains a global perspective.
Based in Inverness with an international reputation and clientele, Sandra was raised on the Isle of Lewis as a native Gaelic speaker and trained at Glasgow School of Art before setting up as an independent designer. Working from her studio, she produc-es unique, highly complex yet structured designs, her love of the Scottish landscape is the primary inspiration for her work, and she has a particular passion for wool.
Sandra was commissioned to dress HM The Queen for the opening of the Scottish Parliament in 1999 and has both an MBE for services to the Scottish fashion and textiles industry and an honorary fellowship with the University of the Highlands and Islands. Throughout her career she has promoted the Scottish textile indus-try; leading international showcases in New York and Tokyo, exhibiting at London Fashion Week, working with the Cannes Film Festival and The Metropolitan Club New York. Sandra also presented the BBC ALBA series of Stoidhle the Dressing-up Box and admits to constantly having many ‘irons in the fire’ – a current project involves a unique collaboration with the Nanjing Brocade Research Institute in China, where her making of a brocade dress is being filmed for a Chinese TV documentary. www.sandramurray.co.uk
The Stornoway Historical Society was formed in 1992. Its objective is to advance the education of the public about the history, heritage and culture of Stornoway and the Island of Lewis. To date it has been instrumental in raising awareness of the need to preserve all aspects of the town’s early and most recent history. It has actively participated in the presentation of information on the town through exhibitions, public lectures and publications. Membership of the Society is open to all who have an interest active and passive, in the history of the town.
THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY
StornowayHistorical Society
Ian Lawson ‘From the Land’2nd July to 13th August 2016
Originally commissioned by the Harris Tweed Authority for its Centenary, Ian Lawson first showed his extraordinary, vivid photographs of the person-alities, culture, landscape and industry that sustains Harris Tweed at An Lanntair in 2011. Since then his portfolio has been both expanded and refined. This time, the exhibition is supplemented and enhanced by new photographs, artefacts, products and examples of the process from raw wool to finished bespoke product; not least the presence of a functioning Hattersley loom. It also includes a wide range of items that have been developed to use and interpret the cloth. From the Land is a generous and appropriate tribute to an iconic, beloved product and a celebration of the renaissance that has occurred in the industry in the 21st Century.
Sharmanka ‘Am Beairt’1st October to 13th November 2016
For most of the 20th Century Harris Tweed was woven on Hattersley pedal looms on Island crofts. Post-war, in the 50s and 60s, when the cloth was at peak production, the villages of Lewis rang to the clickety-clack of this quintessential home industry. Am Beairt : The Loom is a piece of kinetic art, which is built using a genuine ‘rescued’ Hattersley, bought from a former weaver. The Glasgow-based Russian company Sharmanka were commissioned by An Lanntair to reinvent, reconfigure and bestow this familiar machine, the original workhorse of the industry, with a new character and personality. Created and embellished through the unique vocabulary and vision of Eduard Bersudsky, the sculpture gives an extra-cultural slant to Harris Tweed’s place as a global product. The exhibition is illustrated by Robin Mitchell’s photographs of the disassembly and (re)construction along with a photo-essay on the Carloway Mill in operation.
Harris Tweed Tours
The Harris Tweed Festival, in partnership with The Western Isles Tour Guide Association, will be offering an exclusive and bespoke tour experience for visitors during the summer months. Two distinct rural tours will be offered - one routed through Harris and drawing on the history of the Tweed industry which takes its name from the beautiful island; the other travelling west and north through Lewis high-lighting landscapes which inspire the cloth and the production of today. There will also be a walking tour offered in Stornoway, using the streets and local landmarks to tell just some of the many stories associated with Harris Tweed in the town. The tours will weave cultural and historical aspects together to create a unique experience, places will be limited and demand high so advance booking is essential.
For more information please check www.lanntair.com
EXHIBITIONS & TOURS
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One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world, Harris Tweed, is produced in the OuterHebrides, on the one island with two names, separated only by a mountain range – the islands of Lewis and Harris.
The story begins with pure virgin wools which are blended together to gain the advantages of their unique qualities and characteristics.
The wool used to make Harris Tweed is principally taken from flocks reared on the mainland of Scot-land. In the early summer the island communities round up and shear the local sheep to add to the mainland clip.
The raw undyed wool is taken to the island mills where it is washed and dyed into an endless palette of colours; this ‘dyed in the wool’ process is unique to Harris Tweed.
After drying, the coloured wools are blended to-gether in a predetermined and secret recipe, then carded and spun to produce the spectrum of yarns that enhance the uniqueness of our finished cloth.
The spun yarn is then warped, where the final pattern of the colours is prepared by winding the threads onto large beams to create the warp.
The warp is delivered, together with the bobbins of yarn for the weft, to the homes of the weavers along with a pattern instruction card from the mill.
All Harris Tweed must be, by law, woven on a treadle loom by the weaver at his own home. Once complete, the bolts of raw, unfinished tweed are collected from outside the croft* gate and returned to the mill for finishing.
Harris Tweed weavers throughout the length and breadth of Lewis and Harris are self-employed craftsmen and women, often having learnt the craft from their forefathers over many years.
The greasy cloth from the oily loom is now thoroughly washed and conditioned removing any impurities. After finishing, the last and vital stage of production can begin.
The tweed is then presented to the Harris Tweed Authority’s inspectors, and only if all the necessary regulations have been complied with, it is stamped with the Certification Mark – or ORB MARK – as it is known throughout the world.
The orb stamp is the mark of authenticity and the woven label issued with the cloth to the customer confirms it.
*a small rented farm, esp. one in Scotland, comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house.
THE PROCESS
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Luskentrye Harris Tweed CoProducer of single width Harris Tweed.Donald John & Maureen [email protected]+44(0) 1859 550 2616 Luskentyre, Isle of Harris, HS3 3HL
James AmorProducer of single width Harris [email protected] 710 70120 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis HS2 9BQ
Butt of Lewis Texti lesProducer of single width Harris Tweed.www.buttoflewistextiles.co.ukContact Callum [email protected]+44 (0) 1851 810 600Port of Ness, Isle of Lewis, HS2 0XF
Scalpay LinenProducer of single width Harris TweedContact Sheila [email protected] Harris Tweed Weavers
Garynahine Harris TweedProducer of double width Harris Tweed.www.garynahineharristweed.comContact John [email protected]+44 (0) 1851 621 2049 Garynahine, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9DS
Janina SeddonProducer of single width Harris [email protected] 530224O’er Wather, 10 Geocrab,Isle of Harris, HS3 3HB
Is le of Harris TweedProducer of single width Harris Tweed.Contact Murdo [email protected] Leurbost, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9NS
John MacdonaldProducer of single width Harris Tweed01851 830 37893 Balallan, Isle of Lewis HS2 9PT
John Macmil lanProducer of single width Harris Tweed01851 870 616Westend Cottage, Shader, Isle of Lewis, HS2 0PU
Shawbost WeaversProducers of single width Harris Tweed.Contact Catherine [email protected]+44 (0) 1851 710 70120 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9BQ
Handmade by HeatherProducer of single width Harris Tweed and productsContact Heather [email protected]/handmadebyheatherisleofharris +44 (0) 7979032203
Taobh Tuath TweedsProducer of single width Harris Tweed.Contact Rebecca [email protected] +44 (0) 7843394298
Christina’s Harris TweedProducer of single width Harris TweedContact Christina [email protected]
Urgha Loom ShedProducer of single width tweeds and interior products.Contact Joanne [email protected]+44 (0) 1859 502 730Isle of Harris
Caroline ChafferProducer of single width Harris [email protected] 520 777Sandyknowie, Northton, Isle of Harris, HS3 3JA
Jessica ChambersProducer of single width Harris [email protected] 710 70120 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis HS2 9BQ
Ruth BlackProducer of single width Harris Tweed+44 (0) 777 [email protected] Upper Coll, Back, HS2 0LT
Carloway Harris TweedsProducer of single width Harris Tweed.Contact Norman [email protected]+44 (0) 1851 643 413Park House, Carloway, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9AH
INDEPENDENT SMALL PRODUCERS OF HARRIS TWEED
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DIGGORY BROWN
Kilts, Garments and Accessories: Designed and Made in The Outer Hebrides.
New studio available to visit at 7 Habost, Ness, Isle of Lewis.
Please contact Netty to arrange an appointment. E: [email protected]: 07881 273966F: www.facebook.com/diggory.brown/I: www.instagram.com/diggorybrown/
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ROSIE WISCOMBE- By Rosie
89-93 Cromwell St, StornowayIsle of Lewis, HS1 2DG
www.byrosie.co.uk01851 701622
Facebook: By rosieInsta: @by.rosie.tweed
A fresh angle on Harris Tweed. Contemporary garments, bags and accessories crafted in our
Stornoway workroom. Inspired by the colours of the island.
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The Mill & Wool Centre 5 Scotvein - Grimsay - Isle of North Uist
Outer Hebrides HS6 5JA www.uistwool.co.uk - [email protected]
Tel. 01870 602597
PHOTO Harris Tweed Workwear worn by Madde in The Wool Shed, Grimsay YARNS Uist Wool CLOTH Taobh Tuath Tweeds DESIGN Diggory Brown IMAGE MJ MacIsaac
SALLIE AVIS DESIGNERFarley Cottage29B LionelPort of NessIsle of LewisHS2 0XBt: 01851 811196
open 10am – 5pm tuesday – saturdayclosed sunday.monday.e: [email protected]: www.salliejayneavisbridal.com
find us on facebook:https://www.facebook.com/Sallie-Avis-Designer-Harris-Tweed-Garments-Made-to-Measure-Bridal
Paulette Brough and her team at Rarebird Design Ltd are happy to use a wealth of industry knowledge and traditional hand skills to design and create beautiful award winning Harris Tweed clothing, accessories and gifts. With studio/shops in Carloway and Stornoway you can come and see where we design, cut and sew Harris Tweed to supply shops and galleries across the
UK and export to the EU, USA and Japan.
Rarebird is proud to be Made in Scotland
1 Bells RdStornoway
Isle of LewisHS1 2QT
Tel: 01851 709974
Unit 1Carloway
Isle of LewisHS2 9AQ
Tel: 01851 643329
RAREBIRD DESIGN LTDwww.rarebirddesign.co.uk
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WILLIAM GRANTFOUNDATION
THE HARRIS TWEED AUTHORITY
The Harris Tweed Authority is a statutory Public Authority created by the passing of the 1993 Harris Tweed Act of Parliament. Prior to this the Harris Tweed Association had been in existence since 1909.
The fundamental role of The Harris Tweed Authority is to, on behalf of the people of the Outer Hebrides, undertake responsibility for promoting and maintaining the authenticity, standard and
reputation of the World famous Harris Tweed cloth.
The Orb mark, pressed onto every length of cloth and seen on the traditional woven label affixed to finished items, guarantees the highest quality 100% pure new wool Harris Tweed, dyed, spun
and handwoven by islanders of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland at their homes to the laws outlined in the Harris Tweed Act of Parliament.
Town Hall, 2 Cromwell Street, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis,
Scotland, HS1 2DB
www.harristweed.org +44 (0)1851 702269