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F E L L O W S O F T H E H A R V A R D A R T M U S E U M S

IRAN IN-DEPTH M A R C H 2 1 - A P R I L 7 , 2 0 1 7

S T U D Y L E A D E R S

SUSANNE EBBINGHAUS is the George M.A. Hanfmann Curator of Ancient Art and Head of the Division of Asian and Mediterranean Art at the Harvard Art Museums. Born and raised in Germany, she studied classical archaeology at the universities of Freiburg and Oxford (M.Phil. 1993, D.Phil. 1998) and excavated at several ancient sites in the eastern Mediterranean. Her research focuses on the art and archaeology of Greece and the Near East, with special interests in the material culture of feasting and the complex cross-cultural exchanges that connected east and west in antiquity. At the Harvard Art Museums, Ebbinghaus organized Gods in Color:

Painted Sculpture of Classical Antiquity (2007), an exhibition that explored the original coloration of ancient sculpture, and worked on the installation of the collections galleries for the museums’ fall 2014 reopening. She edited Superficial? Approaches to Painted Sculpture, a special issue of Source: Notes in the History of Art (2011), and Ancient Bronzes through a Modern Lens (2014), a collection of essays on the scientific and art historical study of ancient bronzes. Currently, Ebbinghaus is busy with preparations for the 2018 exhibition Animal-Shaped Vessels from the Ancient World: Feasting with Gods, Heroes, and Kings.

MARY MCWILLIAMS is the Norma Jean Calderwood Curator of Islamic and Later Indian Art at the Harvard Art

Museums. In a career spanning more than three decades, she has traveled across Islamic lands and worked in a wide range of museums, including the Negarestan Museum in Tehran, Iran, the Cleveland Museum of Art, the Textile Museum of Washington, D.C., and the National Gallery of Art. With degrees from Wellesley College and the Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, McWilliams’s major areas of interest are the decorative arts of Islamic lands, particularly textiles, ceramics, and lacquer. Recent publications include: In Harmony: The Norma Jean Calderwood Collection of Islamic Art (2013); and Traces of the

Calligrapher: Islamic Calligraphy in Practice, c. 1600-1900 (with David Roxburgh, 2007). She is currently working on a catalogue of Persian lacquer and a catalogue for an exhibition of 19-century Iranian art, Qajar Art in an Era of New Technologies and New Audiences, which will open at Harvard in August 2017.

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Itinerary as of July 2016. Please note that the schedule outlined below remains a work in progress, and aspects of the itinerary, including dates, times, and the nature of certain visits, may change. You will receive an updated itinerary prior to departure. (B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner, R=Reception) Monday, March 20

Depart on independent flights to Iran. Most travelers will need to depart today to arrive on time for the start of the program.

Tuesday, March 21

Arrive Tehran. Arrive in Tehran by late afternoon and transfer to your hotel. Relax before attending a welcome reception and dinner where you will meet your fellow travelers.

Overnight: Espinas Hotel / (R, D)

Wednesday, March 22

Tehran. In the morning visit the National Archaeological Museum, whose impressive collections include sculptures from the Achaemenid Persian, Parthian, and Sasanian Empires in addition to the audience relief of Darius the Great (522-486 BCE) from the Treasury at Persepolis.

After lunch, visit the Golestan Palace, which became the official residence of the royal family in the 18th century and is often referred to as the Palace of Flowers. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it stands on the site of the historic Arg (citadel) of Tehran. Encompassing several palatial buildings around a cool green garden, the complex includes the Eyvan-e Takht-e Marmar (Terrace of the Marble Throne) and the Talar-e Aineh (Hall of Mirrors).

Continue to the Aaran Gallery, one of Tehran’s leading contemporary art galleries, where owner Nazila Noebashari will join us for a discussion about contemporary art in Tehran.

Enjoy a traditional dinner this evening.

Overnight: Espinas Hotel / (B, L, D)

Thursday, March 23

Tehran. Begin the morning at the National Museum of the Islamic Era, which has recently reopened after a nine year renovation project. The museum houses art and artifacts from the early Islamic period as well as Seljuk, Ilkhanid, Teymurid, Safavid, and Qajar eras.

Continue on to northern Tehran for lunch at the Divan Restaurant.

After lunch, visit the Sa’d-Abad Palace Complex (18 buildings that were a royal summer home during the Pahlavi period), where we will focus on the Green Palace, which houses some of the most beautiful carpets from across Iran.

From there, we’ll visit a gallery in northern Tehran and tour the Glass and Ceramics Museum of Iran before returning to the hotel.

Dinner this evening is at a local restaurant.

Overnight: Espinas Hotel / (B, L, D)

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Friday, March 24 TehranHamadan. This morning, visit the Reza Abbasi Museum, which houses a

collection from the 2nd millennium BCE to the early 20th century, that showcases the development of decorative and applied arts throughout Iran’s history. The collection includes artifacts made of baked clay, metal, and stone from the pre-historic times and a superior collection of Persian miniatures.

After lunch, drive (about 3 hours) to Hamadan, the ancient link between Mesopotamia and the Iranian plateau. It was here that the Median capital, Ecbatana (Hegmataneh), was founded. At the height of its glory as the Achaemenid summer capital, it was described as one of the region’s most opulent cities.

Upon arrival explore the Gonbad-e Alavian structure, a 12th-century mausoleum belonging to the late Seljuk period. The most noteworthy monument in Hamadan, the dome may have been originally intended as a mosque.

End the day at the Mausoleum of Esther and Mordechai, a14th-century tomb tower that was once Iran’s most important Jewish pilgrimage site.

Transfer to your hotel in time for dinner.

Overnight: Azadi Hotel / (B, L, D)

Saturday, March 25

HamadanKermanshah. Depart this morning and drive to Kermanshah, visiting key archeological sites along the way.

Begin at the ancient mount of Tepe Nush-i Jan, where excavations have brought to light a mudbrick citadel with fire temple of the Iron Age period. A hall with multiple columns anticipates the reception halls of the Achaemenid Persian palaces at Pasargadae and Persepolis.

Continue on to Kangavar to see the remains of a temple dedicated to Anahita, the goddess of water and abundance, which dates back to Seleucid or Parthian times (c. 300 to 200 BCE).

Then we’ll visit Bisotun— a UNESCO World Heritage site located on a major east-west highway in use since ancient times. Carved prominently on the mountain cliff, a relief and multi-language inscriptions celebrate king Darius’ ascension to power and victory over his enemies. The inscriptions were to play an important role in the decipherment of cuneiform writing.

Have lunch at a local restaurant before visiting Taq-e Bostan, once part of a Sasanian paradeisos or park. Two grottoes by a small artificial lake are richly decorated with reliefs, including superbly detailed depictions of the Sasanian king and his retinue hunting wild boars and stags.

Upon arrival in Kermanshah, transfer to your hotel for dinner.

Overnight: Parsian Hotel / (B, L, D)

Sunday, March 26 KermanshahKerman. Take a morning flight to Kerman via Tehran. Depending

on the flight time, lunch will either be at the airport or you will be provided a boxed lunch.

Arrive in Kerman in the late afternoon and transfer to the Pars Hotel where you will dine this evening.

Overnight: Pars Hotel / (B, L, D)

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Monday, March 27 Kerman. Begin the day with a visit to Rayen, a preserved medieval city molded from

the red clay of the surrounding desert. As an oasis town in the Dasht-e Lut Desert, it is surrounded by date palms and citrus orchards.

Stop in Mahan for lunch at the delightful Bagh-e Tarikhi Gardens, which were designed as traditional Persian gardens.

After lunch drive to the beautiful tomb of Shah Nematollah Vali, who died in 1431 and was the founder of a Dervish order that continues to be an active spiritual force in Iran today. His tomb is an example of the importance that traditional Persian architecture places on the harmony between nature and building. On the way back to Kerman, we’ll stop at the site of Gombad-e Jabaliye (Mountain of Stone).

Return to Kerman for dinner.

Overnight: Pars Hotel / (B, L, D)

Tuesday, March 28

KermanYazd. In the morning continue exploring Kerman’s historical core. Walk through the Kerman Bazaar, including a lovely madrassa built around a garden courtyard and a historical bath-house, now a museum.

Enjoy tea at a local teahouse before driving to the Akhvan Hotel for a Persian lunch. Continue to Yazd on the way to the town of Rafsanjani, home of the former President of Iran.

Stop en route at the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai. This 400-year old caravanserai was built on the orders of Shah Abbas I and has recently been converted into a hotel.

Upon arrival in Yazd transfer to your hotel to enjoy dinner.

Overnight: Moshir Garden Hotel or Dad Hotel / (B, L, D)

Wednesday, March 29

Yazd. Located in the heart of Iran between the Kavir and Lut Deserts, Yazd was a major stop on the international caravan routes to Central Asia and India. The view from the dome of the 14th-century Friday Mosque shows the sunbaked roofs and wind towers of the city.

Visit the home of the former Governor of the city—known as the Dowlat-Abad House—to see how these wind towers work and to learn more about residential Persian architecture in the desert.

Continue on to the Yazd Bazaar before ending at the Water Museum, which offers an excellent introduction to “qanats,” the underground water channels that Persians have used for over 2,000 years to irrigate crops and supply drinking water.

After lunch drive to the Friday Mosque, whose facade is decorated from top to bottom with dazzling blue tile work.

Take a walking tour through the covered streets of the old quarter of Yazd.

At sunset, visit the Ateshkade. These “towers of silence” were used until thirty years ago by Zoroastrians as a place for leaving their dead to be devoured by vultures. The towers were used as a way to free the souls of the dead without polluting the environment through burial or cremation.

Enjoy an earlier dinner this evening at a café where many of Yazd’s young professionals come to eat and socialize.

Overnight: Moshir Garden Hotel or Dad Hotel / (B, L, D)

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Thursday, March 30 YazdShiraz. Depart in the morning for the drive to Shiraz. The drive itself

takes about 5 and a half hours, but there will be several stops along the way. Visit the Abarkuh Ice House, an example of the Persian ice-houses that were used as recently as fifty years ago, before stopping for lunch.

Next, stop at Pasargad, where Cyrrus the Great defeated Astyages the Mede in 550 BCE and, according to tradition, decided to build the first Achaemenian capital on the site of his victory. The white limestone tomb of Cyrrus stands apart from the scattered remains of gardens, palaces, and temples at Pasargad.

Upon arrival in Shiraz, transfer to the Zandiyeh Hotel where you will dine this evening.

Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel / (B, L, D)

Friday, March 31 Shiraz. Enjoy a full day excursion to Persepolis, Naghsh-e-Rostam, and Naghsh-e- Rajab.

Drive to Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenian Empire and arguably one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in existence today.

After lunch enjoyed in the shade of grape vines at the Laneh Tavoos Restaurant, visit Naghsh-e-Rostam, which contains four tombs widely accepted to be those of Darius the Great, Xerxes, Artaxerxes and Darius II. Opposite Naghsh-e-Rostam is Naghsh-e-Rajab, with three Sassanian bas-reliefs that depict various scenes from the reigns of Ardashir I and Shapur the Great.

Return to Shiraz for dinner at a local restaurant.

Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel / (B, L, D)

Saturday, April 1 Shiraz. Begin this morning with a drive to Sarvestan to explore the remains of a Sassanian palace built in the 5th century.

Return to Shiraz and visit the Fars Museum. This octagonal pavilion was originally built by Karim Khan and was used for official receptions.

A short distance away is the Arg-e Karim Khan. This citadel’s shape resembles a medieval fortress. During the Zand dynasty it was used by Karim Khan as his living quarters and later, during the Qajar period, it was used as the governor's seat. Today the citadel has been restored as a museum.

Enjoy lunch at the Shaterabbas Restaurant.

After lunch, visit Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque, which is the oldest mosque in Shiraz. The “Pink Mosque” gets its name from the beautiful pink tiles used for its interior design.

End the day at the Tomb of Saadi. Born in 1213, Saadi became one of the major Persian poets of the time, known not only in Persian speaking countries, but also in the West.

Dinner this evening is at the Haft Khan Restaurant.

Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel / (B, L, D)

Sunday, April 2

ShirazYasuj. Depart from Shiraz on a full day journey along the Dena Mountains, the main part of the scattered Zagros Mountain Range, to Yasuj.

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Along the way, stop at the Sassanian site of Bishapur, which was founded in the 2nd century on the site of an older city abandoned in the time of Alexander the Great. The town rapidly became one of the most important cities in Fars Province.

Upon arrival in Yasuj, transfer to your hotel for dinner.

Overnight: Azadi Hotel / (B, L, D)

Monday, April 3

YasujIsfahan. After breakfast, drive north for about four hours through the scenic Zagros Mountains to Isfahan, stopping en route for lunch.

Upon arrival, visit Hasht Behesht, one of Isfahan's two surviving Safavid pavilions. Along with the Ali Qapu and Chehel Sotun, the Hasht Behesht was restored for the National Organization for Conservation of Historic Monuments of Iran. The project received an Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 1980.

Transfer to the Abbasi Hotel, a converted caravanserai. The large double-storied caravanserai was originally constructed to house the students and professors of the college but was later transformed into a hotel where guests can drink tea inside a garden courtyard with the full view of the Madrassa Chahar Bagh's magnificent yellow and turquoise dome.

This evening enjoy dinner at the hotel.

Overnight: Abbasi Hotel / (B, L, D)

Tuesday, April 4

Isfahan. After breakfast begin exploring Isfahan, arguably the most beautiful of all Iranian cities. Begin with a visit to the Palace of Forty Columns, an impressive pavilion used to receive dignitaries and ambassadors.

From there walk to the immense Maydan-e Shah, or Imam Square. After consolidating his control, Shah Abbas I initiated one of the world’s grandest experiments in city planning, moving the capital from Qazvin to Isfahan in 1598 where it remained until 1722. Mosques, palaces, bazaars, and public parks were built under the monarch’s personal supervision over the next thirty years.

Tour the Lotfallah Mosque, which served as a private chapel for the Imperial family. The domed ceiling has the finest faience tile work of 17th-century Persia.

Eat lunch at the Bastani Restaurant, located in the heart of the bazaar. After lunch, enjoy free time in the bazaar before returning to the hotel mid-afternoon.

This evening, dinner is at a local restaurant.

Overnight: Abbasi Hotel / (B, L, D)

Wednesday, April 5

Isfahan. This morning visit the magnificent Friday Mosque, with its tiled ivans, vaulted ceilings, and lofty domes. The Friday Mosque complex showcases more than 800 years of Persian religious architecture.

Continue on to admire some of the five bridges crossing the Zayendehrud River, which is now dry due to drought and the construction of a dam. Then drive to the Armenian quarter of Isfahan for a walking tour featuring the various churches. Stop for lunch during the tour at the Hermes Café.

Dinner this evening is at the hotel.

Overnight: Abbasi Hotel / (B, L, D)

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Thursday, April 6 IsfahanTehran. Depart this morning and drive two hours to Natanz. Various small shrines dot the area, including the Shrine of Abd as-Samad, the Sufi sheikh.

Continue on for another two hours to the oasis town of Kashan, where you will enjoy lunch at the lovely Manouchehri House.

Complete the final stretch of your journey (about four hours), arriving once again in Tehran and checking back in to the Espinas Hotel.

Enjoy a special farewell dinner this evening at the hotel.

Overnight: Espinas Hotel / (B, L, D)

Friday, April 7

Tehran. Depart for your international flights to Europe and connecting flights to the United States.