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TOP WALKS IN IRELAND A selection of the best day walks in Ireland

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  • TOP WALKSIN IRELAND A selection of the best day walks in Ireland

  • Introduction by Christopher SomervilleIrish Independent walk of the week author

    Walking the old drove road along the cliffs of the Burren on the coast of County Clare, wild flowers spattering the rocks with a dozen colours, the setting sun splashing gold across the Aran Islands out ahead in Galway Bay, I knew this was a little slice of heaven. And the further Ive walked across the magical green island of Ireland, seeking out country hikes for my Walk of the Week column in the Irish Independent, the more heavenly slices of landscape, legend, wildlife and good company Ive found.

    Lucky Ireland possesses some of the best walking country in the world green and lush, wild and hilly enough to look sensational, yet not so lonely or mountainous as to be daunting. Everyone wants to walk here, locals and visitors alike. There are more than 30 Waymarked Ways to cater for the serious long-distance hiker. Yet thanks to inadequate mapping and a tangled history of who owns precisely what, its always been hard to set out on the sort of circular country walk that you can do in a morning or an afternoon, without wondering if youre really supposed to be there and where exactly youre supposed to go.

    Up till now, that is! >

  • Top walks in Ireland 03

    Now a fabulous network of National Looped Walks has been established all across Ireland, both north and south. There are well over 200 to seek out and here in this booklet youll find tasters for twenty-five of the best, all of which I have walked and written about in the Irish Independent weekend magazine:

    near Dublin, both north (Hill of Howth) and south (Wicklow hills)

    the east coast from Carlingford Lough to the Midlands and the Slieve Bloom hills

    the south-east around the Blackstairs and the Comeraghs, two contrasting hill ranges

    the sensational wild flowers of the Burren, Co. Clare, and the walking hub of the Ballyhoura hills on the Cork/Limerick border, both jewels of the Shannon region

    the famous south-western counties of Cork and Kerry from the Sheeps Head peninsula to the mountains and lakes of Killarney National Park

    the romantic west - the Connemara mountains of west Galway and the rugged coasts of Mayo

    the north-west from the splendours of Donegals Glenveagh National Park and the gentle lake county of Cavan to the glories of the Sligo coast (Yeats Country)

    Northern Irelands wonderful hills legendary Slieve Gullion down in South Armagh, the rolling Sperrins of Co. Tyrone, the foothills of the famed Mountains of Mourne, and St Patricks holy hill of Slemish

    These walks have brought me all the winds and weathers Ireland can throw at a walker: a good drenching on the sandhills of the Low Rosses out on the Sligo coast (necessitating a complete change of clothes in the pub corridor!), snow flurries in the Dublin Mountains, a blasting gale on the Sheeps Head peninsula in west Cork, and perfect weather among the flowery Burren hills. I have walked with the shades of ferocious queens, martial giants, wicked witches and enchanted swans. Romantic castle ruins, tangled woodlands with secret gardens, underground tunnels, shrines in the mountains. Orchids, seabirds, mating frogs, running deer. Mind-blowing views from mountain-tops, the savour of secret valleys and hollows.

    For details and maps for over 200 National Looped walks, long distance routes, walking holidays, walking festivals & great walking destinations throughout Ireland visit: www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    Christopher Somervilles Walk of the Week column in the Irish Independent: www.independent.ie/travel/inside-ireland

    Acknowledgement: with thanks to the Irish Independent Newspaper for reproduction of text & maps.

    > >

    Cover Image: Dursey Island - West Cork

  • 1 Howth Peninsula, Co. Dublin 06

    2 Fairy Castle, Dublin Mountains 08

    3 Ballycumber Hill, Tinahely, Co. Wicklow 10

    4 Barnavave and Carlingford, Co. Louth 12

    5 Silver River and Pauls Lane Loops, Slieve Bloom Mountains, Co. Offaly 14

    6 Kilmacoliver Hill, Co. Kilkenny 16

    7 Dolmen Loop, Lisvernane, Glen of Aherlow, Co. Tipperary 18

    8 Carne to Rosslare Harbour, Co. Wexford 20

    9 Coumduala Lough, Comeragh Mountains, Co. Waterford 22

    10 Lighthouse Loop, Sheeps Head Peninsula, Co. Cork 24

    11 Mount Hillary, Co. Cork 26

    12 Muckross Lake and Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park, Co. Kerry 28

    13 Windy Gap, Iveragh Peninsula, Co. Kerry 30

    14 Mman, Connemara, Co. Galway 32

    15 Children of Lir Loop, Carrowteige, Co. Mayo 34

    16 Arigna Miners Way, Co. Roscommon 36

    17 Black Head Loop, Burren, Co. Clare 38

    18 Canon Sheehan Loop, Ballyhoura Mountains, Co. Limerick and Cork 40

    19 Glenveagh National Park, Co. Donegal 42

    20 The Rosses, Co. Sligo 44

    21 Castle Lake, Bailieborough, Co. Cavan 46

    22 Tollymore Forest Park to Meelmore Lodge, Mourne Mountains, Co. Down 48

    23 Slieve Gullion, Co. Armagh 50

    24 Vinegar Hill Loop, Sperrin Hills, Co. Tyrone 52

    25 Slemish Mountain, Co. Antrim 54

    No. Walk Route County Pg

    Contents

  • MAYO

    CLARE

    KERRY

    LIMERICK

    CORK

    TIPPERARY

    WATERFORD

    WEXFORD

    CARLOW

    KILKENNY

    LAOIS

    KILDARE

    WICKLOW

    DUBLIN

    MEATH

    OFFALY

    WESTMEATH

    LONGFORD

    ROSCOMMON

    LOUTH

    ANTRIM

    DOWNARMAGH

    GALWAY

    SLIGO

    CAVAN

    LEITRIM

    FERMANAGH

    DONEGALDERRY

    MONAGHAN

    TYRONE

    TULLAMORE

    BANTRY

    SKIBBEREEN

    KILKENNY

    LISBURN

    ARMAGH

    BALLINA

    LONGFORD

    ROSCOMMON

    SHANNON

    KENMARE

    DUNGARVAN

    NEWRY

    MONAGHAN

    ENNISKILLEN

    DONEGAL

    SLIGO

    DUNDALK

    DROGHEDA

    MULLINGAR

    ATHLONE

    ENNIS

    PORTLAOISE

    TRALEE

    KILLARNEY

    TIPPERARYCLONMEL

    WEXFORD

    NEW ROSS

    CARLOW

    WESTPORT

    CAVAN

    TRAMORE

    MITCHELSTOWN

    LETTERKENNY

    BALLYMENA

    LURGAN

    STRABANE

    COOKSTOWN

    OMAGH

    MAYNOOTH

    KILDARE

    BIRR

    NEWCASTLE WEST

    CARRICK-ON-SUIR

    THURLES

    WICKLOW

    ANTRIM

    ROSSLARE HARBOUR

    CORK

    GALWAY

    DUBLIN

    Broughshane

    Newcastle

    Draperstown

    Rosses Point

    Keadew

    Carrowteige

    Bailieborough

    Maam Cross

    Ardpatrick

    Glenbeigh

    Munterwaryor Sheeps Head

    Muckross

    Banteer

    Glen ofAherlow

    Ballymacarbry

    Tinahely

    Howth

    Black Head

    Carlingford

    Silver River & Pauls Lane Loops

    1. Howth Peninsula

    4. Barnavave and Carlingford

    21. Castle Lake

    23. Slieve Gullion

    22. Tollymore to Meelmore

    25. Slemish Mountain

    24. Vinegar Hill Loop

    2. Fairy Castle

    3. Kyle Loop

    8. Carne to Rosslare Harbour

    7. Dolmen Loop, Lisvernane

    18. Canon Sheehan Loop

    11. Mount Hillary

    12. Muckross Lake

    10. Lighthouse Loop

    13. Windy Gap

    6. Kilmacoliver Hill

    Killarney National Park

    17. Black Head Loop

    5. Silver River and Pauls Lane Loops

    14. Mman

    15. Children of Lir Loop 16. Arigna Miners

    Way

    19. Glenveagh National Park

    20. The Rosses

    9. Coumduala Lough,Comeragh Mountains

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1,50,000 Discovery 50

    TRAVEL: Dart to Howth from Dublin City Centre. Car: M50/ Junction 3

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (Purple arrows) From the DART Station go left along Howth harbour. (detour right up Abbey street to collegiate ruin, then right again up church street for Howth Abbey). Continue along the harbour, then follow the purple arrows for four miles along cliffs, past Bailey lighthouse and on past Doldrum Bay. Just short of Martello tower, bear right to cross Carrick-brack road. Follow the purple arrows through gorse over the golf course and onto the Bog of Frogs. Bear left downhill through Balkhill park estate to Howth DART station. (detour left along the road for 400m to find gates to Howth castle, Howth Demense & Aideens Grave)

    LENGTH: 6.5 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Coastal tracks

    DONT MISS!

    Howth collegiate and Abbey View from the eastern cliffs of Dublin bay

    & the Wicklow Mountains Beaches around Doldrum Bay

    REFRESHMENTS: Abbey Tavern, La Cucina.

    ACCOMMODATION: Clontarf Castle. +353 (0) 1 833 2321 www.clontarfcastle.ie

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Downloadable maps & walks details www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    06 Top walks in Ireland

    Howth Peninsula,Co. Dublin

    A beautiful late winters morning, cold and blue, as a bunch of us left Howth DART station to walk the cliffs of the Howth peninsula. Soon wed passed above the broad curve of Balscadden Bay and were out among the heather and gorse of the Nose of Howth, with wonderful views to the north over the green sister islands of Irelands Eye and Lambay. A seal surfaced close inshore, bobbing in the water like a fat bald man in a wetsuit as he watched a fisherman take up his catch.

    By the white Baily lighthouse we stopped to stare across Dublin Bay at the graceful line of blue mountain peaks twenty miles off in mist-hazed Wicklow. The path passed exotic sub-tropical gardens, and dropped to Doldrum Bay before looping inland and back to Howth through head-high thickets of gorse on the slopes of Shielmartin.

    In Howth Demesne lies a great portal dolmen with a hundred-ton capstone - a quoit thrown from the Bog of Allen by the mighty arm of Fionn MacCumhaill. Thats a fitting end to a legend of a walk.

  • Top walks in Ireland 07

  • 08 Top walks in Ireland

    Fairy Castle, Dublin Mountains

    Rising right on Dublins southern doorstep, the Dublin Mountains make a downbeat overture to the symphony of the Wicklow Hills. But many a mightier mountain owns views far less stunning than those from the modest peaks of Kilmashogue, Three Rock Mountain and Fairy Castle.

    Christopher Stacey of Footfalls Walking Holidays led us up through the pines of Kilmashogue forest to the Three Stones, wind-sculpted granite tors in whose shelter we savoured one of the most breathtaking panoramas in Ireland the Sugarloaf and Kippure spattered with snow, the swell of the higher Wicklow peaks trailing whorls of hill fog, and an enormous slice of coast from the Cooley mountains to the lumpy outpost of Wicklow Head. At the summit of Fairy Castle, high over the Three Stones, the prospect was even better. From there we scrambled down in snow flurries and followed the Wicklow Way back to base. Two verticals claimed the eye among the horizontals of the city lying dead ahead the twin chimneys of Poolbeg power station, striped red and white like a Cork hurlers stockings.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 50

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.luas.ie): Luas Green Line to Balally (3 miles) Bus (www.dublinbus.ie): 44B to Blackglen Road (2 miles) Road: M50 Jct 13; R133, R113 towards Rockbrook; pass under M50, then immediately left uphill for mile to Kilmashogue car park on left (OS of I ref O 151245).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From car park follow Wicklow Way walking man markers (WW) up forest road for 1 miles. Where WW turns right up steps (OS ref 164232), ahead for 20m, then fork left along gravel road for mile to pole barrier and road (175234). Right to Three Stones to admire view over Wicklow Hills and Dublin Bay. Return to junction just below radio masts (176233); left by Coillte notice, up path to cairn on Fairy Castle (172224). Straight ahead down clear track for mile to turn right (166222) on WW; follow to car park.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Easy/Moderate

    DONT MISS!

    breathtaking views over Dublin Bay and the Wicklow Hills from the Three Stones

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: The Merrion Hotel, 21 Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2 www.merrionhotel.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.coillteoutdoors.ie Footfalls walking holidays www.walkinghikingireland.com

  • Top walks in Ireland 09

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 62

    TRAVEL: M11/N11 to Exit 20; R747 Arklow-Aughrim-Tinahely. Entering village, where road turns sharp left to cross bridge, turn right up minor road. Take first left (Mangans Lane); follow it uphill for a mile to Trailhead at Mangans (OSI ref T 0342748).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (Purple arrows/PA; yellow Wicklow Way/WW waymarks): From Trailhead, follow PA to path junction; right along Wicklow Way (WW) past McNamara Memorial (043751) and Ballybeg Rath (050763) to Ballycumber Ford. Left up surfaced road for mile to pass old school house (044773). Following PA, continue for mile; at right bend (045780), left over stile, up forest track for 300m, then right on forest road for

    mile to road at Sandyford Bridge.

    Ahead for mile (Kyle Farmhouse). At Ros Aoibinn house gate, left up laneway. Cross Kyle Farmhouse drive; head up walled lane. In 50m, right through gate; follow track uphill, then beside forestry fence along hilltop for 1 miles. Where fence turns left (029762), follow it left downhill for 350m; right over stile; follow path opposite downhill through heather to meet cart track. Left to meet Wicklow Way, and return to Trailhead.

    LENGTH: 9 miles: allow 3-4 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Field and forest paths, green lanes, minor roads

    DONT MISS!

    Sensational views from Ballycumber Hill Ballybeg Rath Luke OTooles memorial

    ACCOMMODATION: Kyle Farmhouse, Tinahely, Co. Wicklow +353 (0) 59 647 1341 www.kylefarm.com

    10 Top walks in Ireland

    Ballycumber Hill,Tinahely, Co. Wicklow

    In the jovial company of Hugh Coogan, farmer and walker, and his friend and neighbour Mary OConnor, we set off along the Wicklow Way through the hills of South Wicklow. At the seven-gated Ballybeg Rath a great lump of red and white quartzite lay in the leathery old throat of an ancient ash, and around Ballycumber ford the stream banks were splashed sky-blue with brooklime.

    After tea at Kyle Farmhouse we climbed Ballycumber Hill to a sublime prospect Eagle Hill with its warty lump of rock, the wide farming plains of Carlow out west where great flats of milky rain went sliding across fields, woods and boglands, and Lugnaquillas purple back rising like a fish on the long wave of the northern skyline.

    At the far end of the crest we savoured another tremendous viewpoint over Carlow and Wexford to the peak of Mount Leinster, capping the Blackstairs range twenty miles off, before bowling down an old green cart track to find the Wicklow Way curling at the foot of the hill once more.

  • Top walks in Ireland 11

  • 12 Top walks in Ireland

    Barnavave and Carlingford, Co. Louth

    The beautiful inlet of Carlingford Lough separates the Mourne Mountains from the steep green slopes of the Cooley Peninsula. Cooley is the setting for the Tin B Cuailnge, the epic poem that recounts a bloody struggle between Queen Medbh of Connacht and Cchulainn, champion of Ulster.

    From the saddle of Golyin Pass high over Carlingford one looks west over the mythic battlefield, to Windy Gap, gouged out in three days by Medbhs army, and the shallow valley of the River Cronn where famed Ualu drowned under his flagstone. Pictured from here, the old tale still holds its magic.

    Under the peak of Barnavave in Medbhs Gap, the steep pass where the wild queen and her cohorts camped, lies a court tomb an alignment of mossy stones perhaps 7,000 years old. And a little way down the slope you come to an abandoned village of stone-built houses, huddled together along a tangle of cobbled lanes and bracken-smothered potato fields - a vanished society as far removed from our modern way of life as any brave old legend.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 36; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended)

    TRAVEL: Bus: 161 Dundalk-Newry (www.buseireann.ie); 502, 701 (www.louthlinx.com) Road: M1 to Dundalk; R173 to Carlingford. Main car park by Tourist Information Centre.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Walk past Taaffes Castle to town square; up Savages Hill (to right of Savages Butchers). Where tarmac ends, ahead up walled green lane. Halfway up hill, track passes through gate on left and continues upward as green path. Turn right up Tin Way when you meet it (yellow walking man marker). At pass, Slieve Foye marker points right. In 50m, Tin Way walking man arrow points ahead; left here up fence towards Barnavave. Keep fence (then wall) on right; steeply down Medbhs Gap. 50m below left-right dogleg, right through wall (Court Tomb lies uphill in angle of wall). Path bears diagonally downhill to deserted village. Follow wall to right, then left by houses down walled lane. In 50m, right between walls; in 100m, right through wall; descend; left along lane. In mile, ahead (not right!) at fork; continue mile to tarmac road; left to Carlingford.

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate/Hard

    CONDITIONS: Field and forest paths, green lanes, minor roads

    DONT MISS!

    Views from saddle over Carlingford Lough to Mourne Mountains

    Megalithic tomb in Medbhs Gap Deserted village

    REFRESHMENTS: P.J. OHares, Tholsel Street, Carlingford

    ACCOMMODATION: Beaufort House, Ghan Road, Carlingford +353 (0) 42 937 3879 www.beauforthouse.net

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Guided walks: Contact Aude Laffon +353 (0) 871 335159 www.setantatours.com

  • Top walks in Ireland 13

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 54; www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Rail: (www.irishrail.ie): Roscrea or Tullamore (13 miles) Bus: (www.buseireann.ie): Birr (12 miles) Road: N7 to Mountrath, R440 to Kinnitty, R421 to Cadamstown

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Dempseys pub car park, Cadamstown, left over bridge; in 200m, left along Old Munster Road (signed). In half a mile, on left bend, turn right across field to St Lughnas Monastery and Well. Continue along road; through gate, bear left down to cross river. Continue (green arrows, Slieve Bloom Way walking man) to May Scullys Cottage. Just beyond, hairpin back left (green arrow) on forestry track. Enter trees; in mile, left (watch out for green arrows on post and tree), follow green arrows through trees to cross Purcells Brook. Continue (green arrows, soon joined by red arrows) down to turn right along Silver River (red arrows), back to Cadamstown.

    LENGTH: 4 miles approx: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Easy/Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Green arrow waymarks. Steep and slippery along the Silver River.

    DONT MISS!

    St Lughnas Well and monastery Farming landscape hidden in the forest Waterfalls along Silver River

    REFRESHMENTS: Dempseys pub, Cadamstown +353 (0) 57 913 7103

    ACCOMMODATION: Ardmore House, Kinnitty, Co. Offaly +353 (0) 57 913 7009 www.kinnitty.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.slievebloom.ie

    14 Top walks in Ireland

    Silver River and Pauls Lane Loops, Slieve Bloom Mountains,

    Co. Laois & Co. Offaly

    The Slieve Blooms are full of keen walkers. From Dempseys pub in Cadamstown a cheerful bunch of us set out along the Old Munster Road, an ancient highway stretching straight to the skyline. In a field alongside we found the remnants of St Lughnas monastery a fragment of gable rising between two thorn trees on a grassy knoll, an arched wellhead below an enigmatically staring stone face.

    We crossed the Silver River and walked on under hillsides running with trickling streamlets. Every sprig of heather and spear of rush held a row of trembling drops, sent flying in showers of glassy brilliance as we brushed against them in passing.

    Up in the forestry we trod a grassy track between the sombre conifers. A quiet, chesty purring, like that of a well satisfied cat, emanated from the wet hillsides where dozens of mating frogs were deep in their springtime delights. Under the trees we followed sunken paths, to emerge into daylight and follow the Silver River back to Cadamstown through a glen of sparkling waterfalls and weirs.

  • Top walks in Ireland 15

  • 16 Top walks in Ireland

    Kilmacoliver Hill, Co. Kilkenny

    On a breezy, sunny day in Kilkenny it was wonderful to walk the shaded lanes at the foot of Kilmacoliver Hill. A long mile up the mountain we passed the ruined farm of Bregaun. Maidenhair ferns sprang from the naked gables, moss lay thick in the window frames, and sinews of ivy were slowly and silently easing the damp old walls into their component stones.

    The path led up through open fields pungent with pineapple-scented mayweed to the summit of Kilmacoliver Hill, where a great circle of rough and jagged rocks enclosed the recumbent, weather-eroded stones of a megalithic tomb. The flatlands of Kilkenny stretched north for maybe forty miles, the humpy spine of the Comeragh mountains rose in Waterford far to the south-west, and nearer at hand the Hill of the Women, Sliabh na mBan, curled gracefully in a recumbent female shape of slate blue and pearly grey.

    We lingered long over this breathtaking prospect before descending the northern slopes of Kilmacoliver Hill. Looking back we saw the old stones at the crown standing proud, black and tiny against the blue sky.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 75; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended) at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie) to Carrick-on-Suir (5 miles) Bus: (1890-42-41-41; www.ringalink.ie) to Tullaghought Road: From Kilkenny, N76 to Callan; R698, 697 to Tullaghought (signed). Right at village crossroads; trailhead car park in 300m on right (Loop Walk noticeboard).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Continue along road from car park, passing shrine to Our Lady, then side road on right. In 150m, opposite house with white railings, left up lane (purple arrow waymark/PA). Follow lane round right bend by farm. Track surface turns from tarmac to dirt; continue for nearly 2km, to go over step stile by gate and pass ruined farmhouse of Bregaun. In 50m, muddy track swings right into field; but keep ahead here up walled lane (PA) for 70m, then right up steps to follow PAs through open fields. Keep hedge on left and follow PAs up to triangulation pillar and stone circle on summit of Kilmacoliver Hill. Turn right off hill, following fence line to bottom. Right past gate (dont go over!); in 100m, left over step stile; follow path through woods to road. Left to house with white railings; right to car park.

    LENGTH: 4 miles: allow 2 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    DONT MISS!

    Spring and ponds at start of walk Stone circle and tomb on Kilmacoliver Hill View from the hill

    REFRESHMENTS: Take a picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: Selection of Guesthouses, B&Bs, Hotels www.discoverireland.ie/kilkenny

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.trailkilkenny.ie

  • Top walks in Ireland 17

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 66, 74; downloadable map/instructions at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie): Tipperary (10 miles) Road: N8 to Cashel, N74 to Tipperary, R664 to Newtown, R663 to Lisvernane.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (follow red arrows): From Moroneys pub, left; in 200m, left (arrows on wall) up lane. In mile, right (arrows) up muddy boreen. In 200m, right (arrows) up forest track. Left at top (arrows). In mile, Pdraighs Loop (blue arrows) curves right; but go left here (red arrow, Ballyhoura Way sign), then left again (arrow) down through trees. Right (arrow) up boreen; follow this for mile to bench. Sharp right (arrow) up ridge of Slievenamuck for 1 mile to dolmen at summit. On for 250m; right (arrow) through young trees for 150m; left on lower track. Then follow arrows east for 1 mile, to turn right (arrow) on grassy path going west. In 300m Pdraighs Loop rejoins; in another mile hairpin back to left (arrows) down through trees for mile to The Avenue. Right (arrows) for mile to road junction; right into Lisvernane.

    LENGTH: 7 miles: allow 3-4 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Muddy on the forest tracks

    DONT MISS!

    Views of the Galtees and Slievenamon from Slievenamuck

    Shrough Dolmen (a.k.a. Diarmuid and Grinnes Bed)

    A pint in Moroneys after the walk

    REFRESHMENTS: Moroneys pub, Lisvernane +353 (0) 62 56156

    ACCOMMODATION: Aherlow House Hotel, Glen of Aherlow, Co Tipperary. +353 (0) 62 56153 www.aherlowhouse.ie

    18 Top walks in Ireland

    Dolmen Loop, Lisvernane, Glen of Aherlow,

    Co. Tipperary

    If you want to meet a man with a twinkle in his eye, go walking with Michael Moroney of Lisvernane. Rarely can so much enthusiasm, so much energy and good humour have been packed into one human frame.

    Sliabh na Muc is a beautiful hill, a smooth climb to an outstanding view. At the top of the mountain Michael pointed out the lichen-blotched grey structure of Shrough dolmen, a massive portal tomb built to hold the mortal remains of Stone Age grandees some five thousand years ago. No-one with an ounce of soul could fail to appreciate just why this spot was chosen, with the whole uplift of the Galty Mountains spread superbly in the south, their high tops and flanks still streaked today with late snowfall, seen in full glory across the glen that opened a thousand feet below.

    Moving on was a wrench. But we had the graceful curl of Sliabh na mBan as a lodestone in front of us as we headed west along rocky, peaty rides, then down into the Glen of Aherlow once more.

  • Top walks in Ireland 19

  • 20 Top walks in Ireland

    Carne to Rosslare Harbour,Co. Wexford

    A glorious winters morning on Carne jetty, with a peerless blue sky plastered over the County Wexford coast. We ran along the shore like a pair of fools, then sauntered arm in arm on the sands, letting the great curve of the beach draw the eye on along the low sandy cliffs to vanishing point a couple of miles ahead.

    Out at sea the dark upturned hull of the Whilkeen Rock broke the small waves into foam, and on the strand lay ancient boulders of granite, hulking and sea-smoothed, criss-crossed with thick raised seams like the back of a much-flogged old salt.

    Once we got to Greenore Point the strands came alive with hurrying, stooping, pattering birds: dunlin, turnstones, sanderlings, cormorants with outheld wings. The nondescript, blackish rocks off the point were ancient when Noah was a lad. They have been lying here for 1,700,000,000 years. That was something to picture as we turned the corner of the headland and made for Rosslare Harbour over a crunchy carpet of clean-picked crab and mussel shells.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 77; detailed map/instructions in Sl Charman booklet guide.

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie) or bus (www.buseireann.ie) to Rosslare Europort; bus service 378, Wexford-Carne; taxi (087 236 6756 or 087 991 0233) to Carne. Road: N25 towards Rosslare Harbour; at Kilrane, right on minor roads to Carne.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Carne Pier, walk north along coast to Rosslare Harbour its that simple! NB Its best to do this walk on a falling tide. High tide can make St Helens Pier and Greenore Point impassable, but you can detour inland from St Helens to Rosslare Harbour (see map).

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Easy

    CONDITIONS: Sandy strands or coast path.

    DONT MISS!

    Multicoloured ribbon weed and shells along the strands

    Shore waders around Greenore Point Ancient rocks off Greenore Point they are

    1,700,000,000 years old!

    REFRESHMENTS: Lighthouse Inn, Carne - +353 (0) 53 913 1131

    ACCOMMODATION: Glendine House, Arthurstown, Co. Wexford +353 (0) 51 389 500www.glendinehouse.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Sl Charman booklet guide by Ray McGrath available locally and at Tourist office

  • Top walks in Ireland 21

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 75

    TRAVEL: Rail: (www.irishrail.ie): Clonmel (12 miles) Bus: (www.buseireann.ie): 386 (Tuesdays), 388 (Fridays) to Ballymacarbry (4 miles from Hanoras Cottage) Road: N24 to Clonmel; R671 (Dungarvan road) to Ballymacarbry; left on minor road to pass Hanoras Cottage near Labartts Bridge; continue for 2 miles to car park at end of road (OS of I ref. S 278128).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From car park, follow brown The Gap sign and white posts uphill, making for a wall on your right. Cross wall through gate; follow white posts for 1 miles on moorland path to a stile at The Gap. Left here, steeply uphill with a fence on your right. In mile another fence comes into view, running downhill to left. Cross fence on your right by stile here; go to edge of cliffs to view Coumduala Lough (NB Please take great care! Unfenced sheer cliffs!). Continue along fence for 100m to recross by another stile; turn downhill with fence on your left, and follow it back to car park.

    LENGTH: 4 miles: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Hard

    CONDITIONS: Rough moorland tracks; avoid in heavy mist. Steep upward climb from The Gap to Coumduala Lough viewpoint.

    DONT MISS!

    South and westward views from Knockanaffrin Eastward views from The Gap Prospect over Coumduala Lough from the cliffs

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: Hanoras Cottage, Nire Valley, Ballymacarbry, Co. Waterford +353 (0) 52 613 6134 www.hanorascottage.com

    22 Top walks in Ireland

    Coumduala Lough, Comeragh Mountains,

    Co. Waterford

    Breakfast at Hanoras Cottage Hotel in the Nire Valley now thats a god-like start to a misty day among the Comeragh Mountains in the company of Michael Hickey, a man of the hills whom you would trust to take you there and lead you back through all winds and weathers.

    From the hillside at the end of the valley road, Michael named the peaks and hollows - Tooreen ridge, Coumfea (Deer Hollow), and Curraghduff (Black Moor) sheltering the twin loughs of Sgilloge. We followed a sedgy old green road towards The Gap, then forged steeply uphill over knolls and dips until we could look down from the spine of Knockanaffrin (Mass Hill) onto Lough Coumduala lying five hundred feet below, pear-shaped, with the muted gleam of a polished bronze mirror.

    Descending the steep breast of the Mass Hill, Michael Hickey flung out an arm to embrace the mountain ranges in view - Comeraghs, Galtees and Knockmealdowns. If only people would lift their eyes from working 24 hours a day and look whats there for the taking, theyd all be out walking.

  • Top walks in Ireland 23

  • 24 Top walks in Ireland

    Lighthouse Loop, Sheeps Head Peninsula,

    West Cork, Co.Cork

    Sheeps Head is wild. Its rough, and its windy. The northward view from above Lough Akeen is stunning - the sleeping whale shape of Bear Island, with the great hummocks of Slieve Miskish and the Caha Mountains beyond forming the dinosaur spine of the Beara Peninsula. Even Jimmy Tobin, who has been farming these hill slopes for more years than he cares to count, leaned on his stick and gazed around in appreciation at a view he must have seen ten thousand times.

    Along the north coast of Sheeps Head the path grew progressively wilder, running along the very rim of sheer cliffs that plunged past kittiwake ledges to a yeasty, milky green sea. We made inland through a jigsaw of small stone-walled fields. Jimmy gestured to the overgrown square of a tiny hayfield. I last took a cut of hay out of that with a scythe when I was fifteen, and carried it back to the house barefoot. That was the way of it, said Jimmy, half to himself, and we werent any the worse.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 88; downloadable map/instructions at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Bus (www.buseireann.ie): Service 255 (Saturday only) from Macroom and Bantry to Kilcrohane Road: N71 Bantry towards Ballydehob; R591 to Durrus; minor road signed to Ahakista, Kilcrohane and Tooreen (Sheeps Head Caf).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (Follow blue arrows): From Sheeps Head Caf, ahead down road, then path. Cross lower end of Lough Akeen; follow lighthouse sign past helicopter pad to lighthouse. Return and pass along left side of green stores container; continue along valley, then north coast clifftops for 1 mile to marker post with blue arrow pointing right. Aim for post above; follow rough waymark boards and orange/yellow waymarkers back to caf.

    LENGTH: 2 miles: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Can be very wet and boggy underfoot walking boots advisable after rain. Slippery paths near unguarded cliff edge in places keep kids under control. Bring a stick for balance, and midge cream.

    DONT MISS!

    Panoramic view over Lough Akeen Sheeps Head lighthouse Sheeps Head Cafs apple pie, fresh-baked by

    Bernie Tobin

    REFRESHMENTS: Sheeps Head Caf +353 (0) 27 678 78

    ACCOMMODATION: Hillcrest Farm, Ahakista, Durrus, Sheeps Head, Co. Cork +353 (0) 27 670 45 www.ahakista.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.discoverireland.ie/cork

  • Top walks in Ireland 25

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 80; downloadable map/instructions at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie): Banteer (5km). Bus (www.buseireann.ie): 243 from Newmarket (Saturdays). Road: From Mallow, N72 Killarney road; left on R579 through Banteer. In 2km, left across Glen River (brown National Loop Walk Trailhead fingerpost). Trailhead in 3km on right.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Trailhead follow Mount Hillary Loop red arrows (RA) up forest road. In 150m, right (RA). In 2km, left (RA) past posts, up steep bank with steps. Right along forest road. In 2.5km, where Father Murphys Loop blue arrows point ahead, turn right off road (RA) through trees, then left (RA) up track at edge of trees to summit triangulation pillar. Continue past telecommunications masts (RA); in 500m, trail swings left and descends by long zigzags to Trailhead.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 3-4 hours

    GRADE: Moderate (but with one short steep section)

    CONDITIONS: Walking boots recommended

    DONT MISS!

    Views north and south Excellent information boards Prehistoric communications mast at summit!

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic; or White Country Inn, Banteer +353 (0) 29 562 57

    ACCOMMODATION: Hibernian Hotel, Mallow Tel: +353 (0) 22 582 00 www.hibernianhotelmallow.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Walking Duhallow leaflets available from local Tourist office, or from IRD Duhallow, James OKeeffe Institute, Newmarket, Co. Corkwww.discoverireland.ie/cork

    26 Top walks in Ireland

    Mount Hillary,Co. Cork

    The forest track up Mount Hillary (Cnoc an Fhiolair, or Eagle Mount) climbs steadily between dark walls of spruce, pine and fir. The information panels along the trail are uniformly excellent, a treasure-house of rural lore, natural history and geology. You learn variously of the folding of old red sandstone, of how young walkers can make a dreamcatcher from willow and feathers, of rowan berry cures for gout, scurvy and the squitters.

    An old forgotten road runs far below, an ancient cattle-droving highway thirty yards wide between thick hedges. Magnificent views begin to open northwards across the plains of Duhallow to the long grey backs of the Mullaghareirk, Ballyhoura and Galtee ranges out on the skyline.

    The track tops out on the summit of Mount Hillary at 1,283ft (391m). Heres the place to sit and take in the southward view, a rolling sea of hill crests and slopes broken by the Boggeragh hills and the far-off mountains of Derrynasaggart, like a school of smooth old porpoises in a surf of cloud.

  • Top walks in Ireland 27

  • 28 Top walks in Ireland

    Muckross Lake and Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park,

    Co. Kerry

    Given the hundreds of thousands of sight-seers who throng Killarney National Park every year, its remarkable how those wonderful lakes and mountains of County Kerry have retained their tranquil beauty and their air of peace and quiet.

    On a brisk afternoon between winter and spring I set out through the grounds of Muckross House. The path ran west along a narrowing isthmus among gnarly old yew trees. A gleam of water on my left hand, and suddenly Muckross Lake lay spread in all its glory, sparkling as if a million diamonds had been strewn there. Lough Leane opened on the right, as big as a sea inlet by comparison, with a ridge of mountains far away on the northern skyline Slieve Mish, the backbone of the Dingle Peninsula some 15 miles off.

    I strolled the circuit of Muckross Lake, then climbed the steep zigzag path to Torc Waterfall. The cataract sluiced down a dark mossy channel, in creamy skeins as delicate and lacy as a Shetland shawl, turning once before crashing down into a pool in a rainbow mist.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 78; Muckross Estate map from Killarney National Park visitor centre, Muckross House. www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie) to Killarney; jaunting car or bus (www.buseireann.ie) to Muckross. Road: N71 from Killarney towards Kenmare; Muckross House signed on right in 3 miles. Free car park.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Leaving Muckross House, ahead along avenue; left in 250 yards (Dinis Cottage). Follow track for 2 miles around Muckross Lake to Dinis Cottage tearooms. (Meeting of the Waters: down steps beyond lavatory block.) Continue along surfaced track for mile to N71 Killarney-Kenmare road. Bear right to cross (take care!); follow gravel track (yellow, blue, red trail arrows; Muckross House fingerpost). In mile descend to road. (a) Return to Muckross House: cross road, follow path (Muckross House) (b) For Torc Waterfall (steep up and down, many steps!): Dont cross road, but bear uphill (ignore Torc Waterfall arrow pointing other way!) on good path, steep in parts. Path zigzags, then levels out; take left fork (coloured arrows here point back the way youve come!) to cross Owengarriff River. In 25m, left (ignore arrows and Kerry Way sign), following path directly above right (east) bank of river. Path soon slopes and steepens down steps to Torc Waterfall. Continue down path to cross N71. Through gap in fence; left along path; in 50m, right (Muckross House 1.8 km) to return to car park.

    LENGTH: 5 miles around Muckross Lake (easy; allow 2 hours); 7 miles including Torc Waterfall (moderate; allow 3-4 hours)

    CONDITIONS: Well surfaced paths. Torc Waterfall extension: steep ascent, steep descent with many steps.

    DONT MISS!

    Lake views from north side Window graffiti in Dinas Cottage Torc waterfall

    ACCOMMODATION: Arbutus Hotel, College Street, Killarney +353 (0) 64 310 37 www.arbutuskillarney.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Muckross House: +353 (0) 64 31440 www.muckross-house.ie

  • Top walks in Ireland 29

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 78; downloadable map/instructions at http://tcs.ireland.ie/dataland/TCSAttachments/341_TheKerryWay.pdf

    TRAVEL: N70 from Tralee or N72 from Killarney to Killorglin; N70 to Glenbeigh. For two-car walkers, park one car neatly up side road off N70, mile west of Caragh Bridge, and drive other car on for mile into Glenbeigh. Park near Towers Hotel in Main Street.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: By Towers Hotel turn up road past church (Kerry Way/KW walking man waymark post). In mile take first lane on left (KW). Follow KW to end of tarmac, then up track to cross Windy Gap and descend to 3-way fingerpost. Keep ahead (Scenic Route) to reach road and follow it down to N70 and return car near Caragh Bridge.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Good tracks and country roads

    DONT MISS!

    Ruin of Wynnes Folly Wonderful views over Dingle Bay from

    Windy Gap Stunning vista of Caragh Valley and Lough,

    backed by Carrantuohil, from old road beyond Windy Gap

    REFRESHMENTS: Olde Glenbeigh Hotel +353 (0) 66 976 8333 www.glenbeighhotel.com

    ACCOMMODATION: Kerry Ocean Lodge +353 (0) 66 976 9666 www.kerryoceanlodge.com

    GUIDE BOOKS/LEAFLETS: The Kerry Way by Sandra Bardwell (Rucksack Readers)

    WALKING OPERATORS: Go Ireland +353 (0) 66 976 2094 www.govisitireland.com Offer guided walks & walking holidays

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist Office: Iveragh Road, Killorglin +353 (0) 66 976 1451 www.discoverireland.ie/southwest

    30 Top walks in Ireland

    Windy Gap, Iveragh Peninsula, Co. Kerry

    This windy day in County Kerry I was lucky enough to have Sean OSuilleabhain as a walking companion. A gently humorous lifelong walker, Sean is the founding father of the Kerry Way long-distance footpath, and a fountain of fact and fiction.

    We passed the stark shell of Glenbeigh Tower and climbed the zigzag path to Windy Gap. A captivating view opened over Lough Caragh lying sheltered in its wooded valley, brushed by bands of sun-silvered rain. All round stood a protective ring of mountains, rising to the hanging valley of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, dark and thunderous under the cloud-obscured peak of Carrantuohil. Irelands highest mountain at 3,406 feet, observed Sean. I used to take schoolfriends up there from my uncles house in the Brida Valley. Somehow I survived!

    As we came down the road under the wrinkled flanks of Commaun towards the tumbling sea in Dingle Bay, I thought of what a huge debt is owed to Sean OSuilleabhain and his fellow walkers, who have kept the green roads open with such persistence and energy.

  • Top walks in Ireland 31

  • 32 Top walks in Ireland

    Mman, Connemara, Co. Galway

    As you climb the stony track to Mman, the Pass of the Birds, the Twelve Bens of Connemara stand high and handsome behind you across the Inagh Valley, Bencorr in front, with Beanna Beola and Benbaun peeping over her shoulders. Ahead the gleaming quartzite slopes of Binn Mhr and Binn Mhairg cradle the rising path.

    Up at the pass you find a tiny chapel, an altar and the cave-like recess called St Patricks Bed. A statue of the saint broods over the path, a sheep at his heels. Did the good shepherd Patrick once walk these slopes, bless the holy well nearby and sleep in the cave? Many down the centuries have believed so, and it was they who forged the pilgrim path to the pass with its breathtaking views over the Inagh and Maam valleys.

    Wandering round the penitential beds of pebbles, dipping at the holy well, savouring the mighty rushing wind and the never-ending Connemara march of pelting showers, sunbursts and rainbows, one catches the power and pull of this high place. Paul Henry, Mildred Butler, Martin Gale...a cornucopia.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 37, 38, 44; downloadable map/instructions at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Road: A two-car walk. Park one car at Keanes pub, Maam Bridge (junction of R336 and 345); drive other car R336 to Maam Cross, N59 towards Clifden. Entering Recess, just before bridge, right on country road (OS ref. L 873475; Sl Chonamara, Mman sign) for 2 miles to parking place at foot of Mman (OS ref. 892495).

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Follow yellow walking man waymarks for 2 miles up over Mman pass and down to road (922519); ahead for 1 miles to Cur/An Chorr; right for 2 miles to R336; left to Keanes pub.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 3-4 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Steady climb and descent on rough mountain path, then country roads

    DONT MISS!

    Views back toward the Twelve Bens Tobar Phdraig at the pass Views to your left, while descending, up

    Gleann Fhada to Barr Sliabh na Rithe

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic at the pass

    ACCOMMODATION: Rosleague Manor, Letterfrack +353 (0) 95 41101 www.rosleague.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist Office: Oughterard +353 (0) 91 552 808 www.discoverireland.ie/west

  • Top walks in Ireland 33

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 22; downloadable map/instructions at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Road: R314/315 to Ballycastle; R314 to Belderg, minor roads via Porturlin and Portacloy to Carrowteige.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (blue arrows/BA): Leaving the Seanscoil, right up road; in 200m, fork left (BA) on road past Cill Ghallagin graveyard. Continue down to shore; right up tarmac road (BA) for 400m, then left across machair, to follow Black Ditch sod fence along cliffs (take care!) for 2 miles to reach Children of Lir (BA) monument. Inland (BA) along road. In mile, just after bog road joins on right, turn left (BA) on road to Carrowteige.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 2 - 3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate/Hard

    CONDITIONS: Boggy along Black Ditch wear boots! A couple of steep, short climbs/descents. Cliff edge unfenced: keep dogs and kids under strict control.

    DONT MISS!

    View over Trigh na bhFothanta Dubha from Black Ditch path

    View of Stags of Broadhaven from cliffs near monument

    Children of Lir monument

    REFRESHMENTS: None en route; picnic from Garvins shop, Carrowteige

    GUIDEBOOKS/LEAFLETS: The Placenames and Heritage of Dn Chaochin by Uinsonn Mac Graith and Treasa N Ghearraigh, and other booklets etc. available at the Seanscoil, Carrowteige +353 (0) 97 88 082 [email protected]

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist Office: James Street, Westport +353 (0) 98 25 711 www.discoverireland.ie/west

    34 Top walks in Ireland

    Children of Lir Loop, Carrowteige, Co. Mayo

    Carrowteige is one of Mayos remotest Gaeltacht outposts, a scattered village hidden in a vast landscape of bog and windswept mountainside. From the lonely shoreline graveyard of St Ghallagin below the village, I found myself embarking on one of Irelands most breathtakingly wild and beautiful coastal walks.

    I followed the stumpy sod fence of the Black Ditch, a half-toppled wall, above Trigh na bhFothanta Dubha, the beach of the black precipices, where the sea creamed in tight ruffs of white foam under dark cliffs. Up on the crest of the mountain, the views stopped my breath a landward prospect of immensities of bog, a seaward panorama of great stepped cliff edges full of huge dark hollows, rising to the magnificent 830-ft prow of Benwee Head. Just offshore, Kid Island rose from a collar of spume. A few steps more and I was gazing out at the Stags of Broadhaven, five sharply-cut shark teeth of rock rearing out of the sea a couple of miles off Benwee Head. This is a magnificent landscape, empty, wild and enchanting.

  • Top walks in Ireland 35

  • 36 Top walks in Ireland

    Arigna Miners Way, Co. Roscommon

    A crisp day after rain, with streaks of cloud over Lough Allen and the Iron Mountains. Just off the lane up to Kilronan Mountain I found a couple of sweathouses sunk in a bank, half smothered in ferns. Sick folk were once inserted into these tiny stone hutches to sweat in the roaring heat of a turf fire, before being plunged into an ice cold stream. If it didnt kill you, it sometimes cured.

    At the ridge of Kilronan Mountain was a five-star view over Lough Allen to the long whaleback of Sliabh an Iarainn. Soon the path began to wind between blackened heaps of coal mining spoil, and I descended the hillside to enter the subterranean world of the Arigna Mining Experience.

    Coal was mined here for decades. With guide Michael, an ex-miner, I tramped the eerie tunnels and hefted the solid weight of pickaxes and pneumatic drills. It was very hard, tiring work, aye, said Michael. But there was something about it. Mining got in your blood, I suppose. That was it.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 26; also in Miners Way booklet (see below)

    TRAVEL: Arigna is signposted from R280 Drumshanbo-Drum-keeran road just north of junction with R285 Keadew road, 2 miles from Drumshanbo.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Miners Bar at Derreenavoggy Bridge (OSI ref 193314), uphill. Just past Arigna Fuels, keep ahead up lane; in 300m, over crossroads, on uphill. In mile pass cottages on right, then lane; in 250m, sweathouses over gate on right. In another 200m, Miners Way post on left; right up steps; up path; at top, right (arrow) past another sweathouse. Follow marker posts and yellow waymarks. Left over stile onto path across moorland. In mile, right (arrow) towards Lough Allen. At escarpment edge, left over stiles and through gates (arrows) for mile to Miners Way fingerpost. Dont turn downhill, but continue for mile through old colliery sites, then right downhill (arrows), and right along road. In 1 mile pass Arigna Mining Experience on right; continue, and in mile, left down lane to Miners Bar.

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 2 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    DONT MISS!

    The sweathouses keep your eyes peeled! Views from Kilronan Mountain over Lough Allen

    and Iron Mountains Arigna Mining Experience

    REFRESHMENTS: Miners Bar, Derreenavoggy Bridge: +353 (0) 71 964 6007

    GUIDE BOOKS/LEAFLETS: Miners Way & Historical Trail map guide booklet, from local tourist offices and shops

    ARIGNA MINING EXPERIENCE: +353 (0) 71 964 6466 www.arignaminingexperience.ie

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist information Office: Boyle +353 (0) 71 966 2145, Roscommon +353 (0) 90 662 6342 OR Sligo +353 (0) 71 916 1201 www.discoverireland.ie/northwest

  • Top walks in Ireland 37

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 51; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended) at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Bus (www.buseireann.ie): Galway-Ballyvaughan-Cliffs of Moher, Services 423, 050 Road: From Galway N18, N67 to Ballyvaughan; R477 to Fanore. Park in Fanore beach car park.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Left along R477 (take care!) for mile; right at Fanore Bridge (OSI ref. M 145089) up side road for 2 miles. Pass turning on right (174069; Burren Way/BW); in 30m, left up track (BW; yellow walking man; purple arrow/PA), past Cathair an Aird Rois, down to road (190070). BW turns right, but go left (Blackhead Loop fingerpost; PA) for mile along lane, over stile, past house (PA). Right up path (188078), levelling out on Poulanegh Hill and turning west, following PAs to meet cobbled path (197066) after 2 miles. Downhill towards sea; left (189097) along slopes. At gate on right, keep ahead (PA) along jungly mile; descend above Aghaglinny North onto track; left along cliffs for 3 miles to R477; left (take care!) to car park.

    LENGTH: 15 miles: allow 6-8 hours

    GRADE: Moderate (occasionally difficult)

    CONDITIONS: Uneven stones on Poulanegh Hill; jungly stretch, slippery descent to Aghaglinny North.

    DONT MISS!

    Fabulous wild flowers on all sides Wild goats (keep your eyes peeled!) Mass house and shebeen in Cathair an Aird Rois

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: Hylands Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare +353 (0) 65 707 7037 www.hylandsburren.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Burren Guided Walks: Mary Howard - www.burrenguidedwalks.com+353 (0) 65 707 6100 www.burrenguidedwalks.com

    38 Top walks in Ireland

    Black Head Loop, The Burren, Co Clare

    Domed grey hills framing a slaty blue sea. Field walls of axe-blade stones delicately balanced, with the sky shining through in blue and silver like a celestial stained glass window. People adore the incomparable Burren landscape, especially when theyre exploring on foot with Mary Howard, Burren resident and devotee. Today there were Connemara ponies on the skyline and goats on the limestone terraces.

    Wild flowers spattered rock and sward, as if a mad painter had dipped his thickest brush in every pot and flicked it all over the land. We found pale pink squinancywort - A cure for a smoky throat! and mountain avens, a creamy bowl of petals with an intense yellow centre.

    Towards evening we dropped down a concertina path, and followed an old drove road back along the cliffs of Black Head among two very special botanical treats Irish eyebright on a long bronze stalk, and the very beautiful white spiral of autumn ladys tresses. Watching the sun dip seaward over the Aran Islands, I knew this was a little slice of heaven on earth.

  • Top walks in Ireland 39

  • 40 Top walks in Ireland

    Canon Sheehan Loop, Ballyhoura Mountains,

    Co. Limerick and Cork

    Canon Patrick Augustine Sheehan might be forgotten these days, but his name still resonates around the Ballyhoura mountains whose landscape and people he depicted with humour and humanity in his 1905 novel Glenanaar.

    Walking the forest track through Glenanaar Forest in the southern ranges of Ballyhoura, we gazed over Canon Sheehan Country. The vale around Doneraile and Kildorrery lay low, its frosted hills riding like islands in a smoky sea of mist. Across the hill we came to a mossy old Mass Rock, three-sided and massive, lying under the trees. Rumours tell of a priest shot while praying here and buried secretly on the banks of the Ogeen River. Down there among the cold exhalations of the Ogeen as it rushed over its sandstone bed, we found ancient broadleaved trees bearded and coiffed with frozen mosses.

    Through Patrick Sheehans eyes we still see the old Irish countrymen, made for hard work and wild tempestuous weather. Sheehan lamented in Glenanaar: No Wordsworth has yet sung the praises of these Irish dalesmen. He himself did the job - superbly, too.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 73; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended) at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: From Kilmallock, R512 Kildorrery road. 2 km beyond Ardpatrick, right (brown Ballyhoura Forest sign). In 4 miles, Ballyhoura-Glenanair sign points right to forest car park.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (Canon Sheehan Loop/CSL - blue arrows): Pass striped pole; down track; cross Ogeen River. NB This walk follows CSL in reverse! Ignore CSL arrows to right; keep ahead left, up track to T-junction at top. Left (purple arrow/PA); follow track along hillside. In 1 miles, where track begins to descend, right (CSL, PA) up rising track. In 100m, pass Mass Rock (signposted left); continue mile, descending to cross tracks and continue down to cross river. Turn right beside river, soon recrossing to right bank. In mile, pass Mass Rock fingerpost/CSL on right; in another mile, at next Mass Rock/CSL/PA, left down bank; path to recross footbridge; track to car park.

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 2-2 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Forest tracks

    DONT MISS!

    Fantastic views over Canon Sheehan Country The Mass Rock Tolkien-like trees by the Ogeen River

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: Deebert House Hotel, Kilmallock, Co. Limerick +353 (0) 63 31200 www.deeberthousehotel.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Ballyhoura Filte Tourist Information Office: Kilfinane, Co. Limerick +353 (0) 63 91300 www.ballyhouracountry.com

  • Top walks in Ireland 41

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 6; map/instructions in Visitors Guide

    TRAVEL: Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre is signposted on the R251 Gweedore-Letterkenny road, 10 miles/16 km east of Dunlewy). NB A shuttle bus service (2) operates between Glenveagh Visitor Centre and Glenveagh castle

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, turn left along tarmac drive. Pass to left of National Park headquarters, and follow drive between entrance gateposts, then beside Lough Veagh for 1 miles to reach gates to Glenveagh Castle grounds. Go through, and follow paths through gardens to reach castle. Return along drive to car park, and join the Derrylahan Trail (detailed in Glenveagh National Park Visitors Guide), with numbered guide posts. Turn left between two boulders onto path that descends through trees. Go through gate and follow path through Scots pine wood, until it leaves wood through forest gate. 30m beyond gate, turn left along path. In another 100m it forks; dont take rough track that climbs straight ahead, but bear right along lower, grassy track into sedgy hollow. The gravelled path steepens to climb through a little wood and run east across moor to meet a fence. Bear right along fence; then, halfway to trees ahead, turn left through a deer gate in fence to reach a road. Right to return to car park.

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 2 hours

    GRADE: Easy

    CONDITIONS: Boggy underfoot in some of the hollows and on the moor of Derrylahan; otherwise fine underfoot

    DONT MISS!

    Glenveagh Castle and gardens The red deer of Derrylahan Fantastic views along Lough Veagh

    REFRESHMENTS: Tearoom at castle (open Easter and June-September); restaurant at the Visitor Centre

    ACCOMMODATION: The Mill Park Hotel, Donegal Town. +353 (0) 74 972 2880 www.millparkhotel.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Glenveagh National Park +353 (0) 74 913 7090 www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie

    42 Top walks in Ireland

    Glenveagh National Park, Co. Donegal

    Glenveagh National Park is the pride and joy of Country Donegal, a haven not only for Irelands largest herd of red deer, but for plants, trees, bog insects, birds and anyone of the human persuasion who loves these things.

    I strolled by the dark waters of Lough Veagh, looking out across the lake to the lumpy spine of the Derryveagh Mountains, as far as the gardens of Glenveagh Castle with its granite turrets and massive walls. Then it was back along the beautiful loughside and through a pinewood to emerge in the wild moorland of Derrylahan, cradled in sunlit mountains. Pink fairy bonnets of lousewort spattered the bog. Electric blue dragonflies hovered. Red deer trotted with easy grace over the hillsides beyond stunted oakwoods.

    It was Cornelia Adair of Glenveagh Castle who established the red deer herd in the 1880s. Local people liked her as much as they had despised her arrogant husband. She enhanced the little kingdom of Glenveagh with flowers, trees and the free-running deer, and everyone is the beneficiary of that generous vision today.

  • Top walks in Ireland 43

  • 44 Top walks in Ireland

    The Rosses, Co. Sligo

    A wet old morning at Rosses Point beside Niall Brutons haunting sculpture Waiting on Shore - a woman in wind-whipped skirts, her arms stretching seaward. Her counterpoint the Metal Man straddled offshore in 19th-century naval officers uniform, pointing ships to the safe channel up to Sligos quays. On the skyline, Knocknarea and Benbulben smoked with cloud.

    We strode out fast along the rain-pocked sands, boots crackling over crab claws hollowed out by gulls, whose melancholy, whinging cries gave a bitter-sweet edge to the morning. Down onto the long dune spit of the Low Rosses, stars of insectivorous butterwort made lime-green rosettes, and burnet moths in tar-black and crimson clung to the flowerheads of harebells and pyramidal orchids.

    Out at the far point we lingered. The Yeats brothers, poet William and painter Jack, knew and loved the Rosses all their lives. Most poignant and beautiful of all Jacks mystical late paintings, Leaving The Far Point has himself, his wife Cottie and Uncle George Pollexfen, as transparent as ghosts, walking the wet sands of Rosses Point on a wild day like this, long ago.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 16

    TRAVEL: Rail (www.irishrail.ie) to Sligo. Bus (www.buseireann.ie): Service 473 from Sligo. Road: N15 or N16 to Sligo; R291 to Rosses Point. By Waiting On Shore statue, left to car park above lifeboat station.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Follow tarred path towards sea; then follow cliff path and strand to Rosses Point. Cross side of golf course (watch out for flying balls!), keeping to cliff edge path. Continue clockwise around Low Rosses sandspit. Return across neck of spit to Rosses Point; retrace steps to car park.

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Easy

    CONDITIONS: Cliff paths, sandy beach

    DONT MISS!

    Metal Man and his Consort Views of Knocknarea and Benbulben Flowers of the Low Rosses

    REFRESHMENTS: Hacketts Bar on seafront, Rosses Point +353 (0) 71 917 7142

    ACCOMMODATION IN SLIGO: www.discoverireland.ie/sligo JACK YEATS COLLECTION: Model Arts and Niland Gallery www.modelart.ie

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist information Office: Temple Street, Sligo +353 (0) 71 914 1905 www.discoverireland.ie/northwest

  • Top walks in Ireland 45

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery 35; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended) at www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    TRAVEL: Bus (www.buseireann.ie): Bus Eireann services108, 166 to Bailieborough. Road: Bailieborough is signed off N3 Navan-Cavan road at Virginia. Park in Main Street.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Follow R178 Virginia road past library. In 500m, left through gates, past St Annes Church. Cross Chapel Road; follow path by Town Lake). Left along Cavan Road for 500m. At 50 kmh sign before left bend, follow pavement to right. In 30m, left by bungalow, past metal barrier. Follow track into castle demesne. In mile, reach path crossroads. Turn right (purple arrow). From here, Official Looped Walk circles Castle Lake. Castle House ruin and Maris Brothers Graves detour: follow Looped Walk round Castle Lake for 1 miles (passing car park). At Castle signpost on left, right up gravel track for 500m to crossing of tracks at Hanging Tree. Right for 200m to metal barrier on right; left for 200m to Castle House ruins. Retrace steps; left by barrier, downhill for 200m to T-junction of tracks. Left for 400m to return to Looped Walk track, detouring left up bank to see Maris Brothers cemetery. Rejoin Looped Walk (blue arrow); right to cross river and reach path crossroads at purple arrow; forward to retrace steps to Bailieborough.

    LENGTH: 5 miles: allow 2-3 hours

    GRADE: Easy

    DONT MISS!

    Swans and cygnets at Castle Lake car park Maris Brothers cemetery

    REFRESHMENTS: Town Caf, Main Street, Bailieborough +353 (0) 42 967 5589

    ACCOMMODATION: The Bailie Hotel, Main Street +353 (0) 42 966 5334 www.bailiehotel.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Cavan Tourist Office, Fernham Street, Cavan +353 (0) 49 433 1942

    LOCAL WALKS AROUND BAILIEBOROUGH: Wednesday evenings contact John Ed Sheanon on +353 (0) 42 966 5342

    46 Top walks in Ireland

    Castle Lake, Bailieborough, Co. Cavan

    It was local walkers and tale-tellers Jo Ed Sheanon and Peadar Reynolds who took us off around the Town and Castle Lakes of Bailieborough, a neat, proud little plantation town in the heartland of County Cavan.

    On the outskirts of town we threaded the shore of the Town Lake, steely cold and wind-ruffled; then followed a boreen lined with tall foxgloves, under fine beech trees and on into the former castle demesne.

    Fed by snaking rivers and streams, Castle Lake gleamed between the trees. Round at the head of the lake a pair of swans was busy shepherding their brood of seven cygnets. We went on along the shore to where a side track led away among the trees. Up there lay the ruins of Castle House, a fragment of stone walls tumbled under mats of honeysuckle; and in a tangle of laurels not far away, the stone-walled cemetery of the Marist monks who once occupied the house. Seven graves in a row among the bushes; seven ornate crosses; seven modest inscriptions a poignant corner of the quiet woodland.

  • Top walks in Ireland 47

  • 48 Top walks in Ireland

    Tollymore Forest Park to Meelmore Lodge, Mourne Mountains, Co. Down

    This was a beautiful spring walk in the skirts of the Mourne Mountains, starting among the Victorian follies of Tollymore Forest Park.

    Jane and I followed the Shimna River, crossing it by stepping stones, before turning up the path from Altavaddy Bridge beside the aptly-named Cascade River which came tumbling spectacularly down a rock staircase. High in the forests we stood entranced, gazing southwards at a tremendous panorama of the Mournes north face the smooth back of Lukes Mountain, the jagged and fantastically shaped summit of Bearnagh, and the tall cone of Slieve Meelmore crowned by the Mourne Wall with its pimple of a tower.

    We dropped through the trees to follow the Mourne Way out of the forest. Under Clonachullion Hill three lambs and a horse put their heads through the farm gate to be patted. We climbed the old smuggling route of the Trassey Track with a spectacular prospect ahead up to the high saddle of the Hares Gap. A final stretch below the mountains, and we were dropping down to Meelmore Lodge with tea and cakes in mind.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Northern Ireland 1:50,000 Discoverer 29, or 1:25,000 Activity Map The Mournes; downloadable maps/instructions for the area at www.walkni.com

    TRAVEL: Bus (www.nirailways.co.uk): Ulsterbus to Newcastle; Mourne Rambler (July/August) or taxi (Donard Cabs (0) 28 4372 2823; Shimna Taxis (0) 28 4372 6030 about 8) to Tollymore Forest Park. Return from Meelmore Lodge by Mourne Rambler or taxi. Road: A2 to Newcastle, B180 to Tollymore Forest Park

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Lower car park (OS of NI ref J 344326), walk down lawn, under Horn Bridge (labelled), down path. Cross track (red arrow); on down; right along Shimna River. Pass The Hermitage (342322); in 320m ( mile) left across stepping stones (339320). On far side red arrow points left, but go right past Meeting of the Waters across Altavaddy Bridge (336319). Immediately left uphill (Mourne Way/MW waymark) with Cascade River on left. Opposite wooden shelter, detour left down steps to see The Cascade. On up MW to cross path (333314 MW to left, Red Route to right); keep ahead up zigag forest road. In 0.4km ( mile), left (330314 - yellow arrow/y.a.) into trees. Follow forest road for 600m ( mile) to viewpoint southwards to mountains (324313).Right here down forest road for 1.5km (1 mile), following y.a., to path crossing (323319). Y.a. points right, but go left past MW on post to cross bridge. Follow MW for 1.5km (1 mile) to road by farmhouse (311313). Left up Trassey Track (MW, y.a.) for 1.2km ( mile), through kissing gate, up to go through another kissing gate in wall (313303). Right (MW) along wall for 500m ( mile); right over ladder stile; lane to Meelmore Lodge (306308).

    LENGTH: 6 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Forest tracks, stony hill paths; one ford; some stiles. Walking boots.

    DONT MISS!

    The Cascade View of Mournes from Trassey Track Meelmore Lodge home baking!

    ACCOMMODATION: Mountain View, 74 Castlewellan Road, Newcastle (0) 28 4372 2634 [email protected]

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.walkni.com

  • Top walks in Ireland 49

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Northern Ireland 1:50,000 Discoverer Series Sheet 29.

    TRAVEL: Bus: Service 43 (Newry-Forkhill) to Forest Park entrance Road: N1/A1 Dublin-Newry; B113 (Forkhill); in 3 miles, right (Slieve Gullion Forest Park) to car park.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: (Ring of Gullion Way/RGW blue arrows): From top left corner of car park (OS ref J 040196), left up path through trees. In mile join Forest Drive (038191), up slope, then level, for mile to RGW post on left (035190). Right up drive, past metal barrier; left uphill for 1 miles to car park (018200). Beyond picnic table, right at white post, steeply uphill to South Cairn on Slieve Gullion summit (025203). Walk past Lake of Sorrows to North Cairn (021211); then aim north for Sturgan Mountain (left of Cam Lough), then white house between you and lake. Path divides by grassy lawn with boulder beyond; right here, aiming for house. Through gate, down to road (025230). Right along road for 3 miles, passing Killevy Old Church (040221) and Clonlum Cairn (047206), to northern entrance to Slieve Gullion Forest Park (046199). Right to car park.

    LENGTH: 8 miles: allow 3.5 hours

    GRADE: Moderate

    CONDITIONS: Can be muddy

    DONT MISS!

    Cailleach Bearas house Lake of Sorrows and enchanted millstone Sensational views from Slieve Gullion

    REFRESHMENTS: Slieve Gullion Courtyard Centre caf/restaurant

    ACCOMMODATION: Murtaghs Guest House, 13-15 North Street, Crossmaglen + 44 2830 861378 [email protected]

    FURTHER INFORMATION: www.walkni.com www.discoverireland.ie/walking Slieve Gullion Courtyard Centre: + 44 2830 849220 www.clanryegroup.com

    50 Top walks in Ireland

    Slieve Gullion,Co. Armagh

    I was lucky to have knowledgeable walker Ron Murray as a companion during this hike over the big dark hump of Slieve Gullion. We climbed, short and sharp, to the southern peak of the mountain, centrepiece of a remarkable volcanic landscape set in the green farmlands of South Armagh.

    If you can see one mile, you can see well over a hundred from the summit - north-east to the hummocky backbone of the Mountains of Mourne, north to the tumbled hills of Antrim, west to the Sperrin Hills and on round over the vast Midland plain, and in the south, as pale and tiny as tin cut-outs, the hills of Wicklow more than sixty miles away. Nearer at hand, a ten-mile-wide circle of craggy volcanic mini-mountains encircling Slieve Gullion like courtiers round a king.

    Ron and I explored the neolithic passage grave at the peak (home of the witch who turned mighty Fionn MacCumhaill into a feeble old man), and the Lake of Sorrows with an enchanted millstone lying on its shores. Stories, stories ...

  • Top walks in Ireland 51

  • 52 Top walks in Ireland

    Vinegar Hill Loop, Sperrin Hills, Co. Tyrone

    With hill walker and mountaineer Martin McGuigan we walked the old stony road that winds like a scarf around the upper shoulders of Gorticashel glen. We looked down into a silent bowl of fields, some green with good grazing, others hazed under bracken and sedge. Abandoned farmsteads lay dotted across the slopes, each tin roof an orange blob among green shelter trees eloquent testimony to the hardships faced by small country farms in County Tyrones Sperrin Hills these days.

    Lazybed strips. Martins finger pointed out the corduroy rows of potato ridges on the slopes of the glen. Ive dug rows like that myself, Martin observed. Its hard enough work. Lazybeds are very effective but theyd break your back.

    We passed tumbledown cottages half smothered with fuchsia and Himalayan balsam, ferny old mills, ancient potato-digging machines; also working farms with guardian roosters and full turf sheds. Its good to think that, with the opening of the Vinegar Hill Loop, cheerful voices will be heard around the abandoned steadings and boots will tread the forgotten green roads of Gorticashel once more.

    WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Northern Ireland 1:50,000 Discoverer 13; downloadable map/instructions soon to be available at www.walkni.com

    TRAVEL: From B74 between Plumbridge and Draperstown, follow brown Barnes Gap tourist signs. Park in car park/toilet/picnic area (OSNI ref. H 551905) at foot of Mullaghbane Road by Plumbridge 5 sign.

    WALK DIRECTIONS: Walk up the upper Barnes gap road (Craignamaddy Circuit/CC, Ulster Way sign) past farm (barking dogs!). Right along Magherbrack Road for mile; left (552896; CC) along dirt road. Follow it round Gorticashel Glen for 2 miles to road near Irish Town (558873). Right for mile to crossroads in Scotch Town (548875; Gortin left, Plumbridge right). Straight across here and over next 2 crossroads (544875 and 538880) for 1 mile, to pass turning on left (536883 tarmac stops here). Ahead for 300 metres; right (534885; Vinegar Hill Loop) on stony lane. Follow it for 1 miles to road (550892). Forward to Barnes Gap road; left to car park.

    LENGTH: 7 miles: allow 3 hours

    GRADE: Easy

    CONDITIONS: Minor roads, country lanes

    DONT MISS!

    Views from Barnes Gap - north to High Sperrins, south to Mullaghcarn

    Old mill and potato digger at Scotch Town bridge Standing stone behind hedge near Garvagh (ref.

    538881)

    REFRESHMENTS: Picnic

    ACCOMMODATION: Crosh Lodge, 22 Plumbridge Road, Newtownstewart (0) 24-8166-1421

    OPERATORS/COMPANIES: Walk On The Wild Side +353 (0) 24 8075 8452 or +353 (0) 77 14 835 977 www.walkwithmarty.com

    FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourist Information Centre, Strule Arts Centre, Omagh +353 (0) 24 8224 7831 www.walkni.com www.discoverireland.ie/walking

  • Top walks in Ireland 53

  • WAY TO GO INFORMATION

    MAP: OS of Northern Ireland 1:50,000 Discoverer 9; downloadable map/instructions (highly recommended) at www.walkni.com

    TRAVEL: Road: From Ballymena, A42 to Broughshane; Slemish is signposted (brown signs) from the town

    WALK DIRECTIONS: From Slemish Visitor Centre car park (NB closes at dusk), follow the path towards the mountain (Antrim Hills Way waymarks). A very steep, well-worn path leads straight up the flank of Slemish to the summit. At the top, turn right to the southern end of the summit ridge, and bear to your right down a grassy path, very steep and slippery, to the bottom of the mountain. Turn right along the path, passing Antrim Hills Way waymarks, to return to the Slemish Visitor Centre car park

    LENGTH: 1 miles: allow 1 hours

    GRADE: Hard

    CONDITIONS: This is a climb that most can manage. Take your time. Both upward and downward tracks are very steep for short sections. Slippery after rain a stick helps balance. Sensible footwear with good sole treads is essential.

    DONT MISS!

    Displays in Slemish Visitor Centre Mountain wildlife - pipits, skylarks, buzzards,

    ravens; eyebright, tormentil, elaborate star mosses The stunning view from the top, as far as

    Scotland on a clear day

    REFRESHMENTS: Lallys Larder, Main Street, Broughshane +353 (0) 28 2586 2366

    ACCOMMODATION: Loughconnolly Farmhouse, Broughshane +353 (0) 28 2586 4380 www.loughconnollybandb.co.uk - 46 double B&B

    INFORMATION: Tourist Office: The Braid, Ballymena +353 (0) 28 2563 5900 www.ballymena.gov.uk www.discovernorthernireland.com

    54 Top walks in Ireland

    Slemish Mountain, Co Antrim

    You cant picture Slemish without thinking of St Patrick minding Chief Milchus pigs in the pastures under the mountain. As soon as Jane caught sight of the old volcanic plug rearing skyward from the green fields of Antrim, she wanted to climb it.

    Of the bubbling, smoking sea of boiling magma that formed these uplands some 60 million years ago, Slemish remains: a giant plug of basalt, craggy and proud, standing 500 feet above the surrounding lands, dominating all. Up where the smooth pasture fell back and the path steepened among naked rocks of purple and black, we got a proper sense of climbing a mountain, a slip-and-slide upward progress. Underfoot the piled rocks gave out a hollow ring. All around were heather, coarse mountain grass, clumps of tiny eyebright flowers and a spatter of sulphurous yellow tormentil.

    Up on top we gulped in the cold air, gasping over an immense prospect: the giant volcanic steps of the Antrim coast, a blur of mountains overlooking Belfast, Lough Neagh a sword-shaped gleam, the rain-occluded Sperrins. Truly a mountain worthy of its Saint.

  • Top walks in Ireland 55

  • 56 Top walks in Ireland

    Walking in Ireland For Information on travelling to Ireland visit www.discoverireland.com For information on walking tour operators, local walks with downloadable maps including

    Discover Irelands National Loop Walks, and walking festivals throughout Ireland: www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    Walkers Check list 1. Have you checked todays weather forecast? Check

    www.meteireann.ie2. Do you have suitable clothing for the expected

    weather? Wear walking boots or shoes suitable for use on rough ground. Have a map, hat, gloves and waterproofs.

    3. Do you have enough food and water for the day?4. Do you have a map or guide for the intended walk?5. Bring your mobile phone in case of an emergency.

    Walking HolidaysLook out for the walkers welcome logo in walking destinations around Ireland and you are guaranteed a memorable walking experience. There are lots of advantages involved in using a local walking operator to plan and organise your trip, your accommodation, your meals and even your luggage transfers.

    The itinerary will be expertly arranged based on the extensive experience of the guide. Youll be given the best possible accommodation choices, as well as being directed to buzzing evening venues for traditional music, song and dance and other entertainment. Youll also receive personal insights into the local region, its history, culture, flora and fauna. Going on a guided walking holiday can be a huge amount of fun, with great company provided along the way. And its always good to know that a fully qualified group leader is never far

    away, whether they are on foot or using the power of the pedal. Some operators have been mentioned along with walks featured in the guide. For a full list of walking operators based in Ireland see: www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    Long Distance way-marked waysFor the more avid walker, Irelands Long distance way-marked ways are a great way to discover the country. The linear trails take between 2-10 days to complete and a good level of fitness is required. Each route is divided into stages with accommodation along the way. Many looped walks are spurs off the long distance routes. For maps and details for all long distance routes around Ireland visit www.irishtrails.ie

    National Parks Irelands national parks are very popular with walkers. Co. Wicklow, Killarney, Co.Kerry Connemara, Co. Galway The Burren, Co. Clare and Ballycroy, Co. Mayo offer a variety of well-signposted walks ranging from short strolls to wild mountain tracks. The National Parks protect areas of outstanding beauty so you are guaranteed a wonderful experience. For further information: www.npws.ie

    Forest parks & Trails Coillte, Irelands forestry company, welcomes you to the huge range of recreation opportunities they provide at many sites across the country. You can access miles of walking, hiking, multi access, and long distance trails, enjoy the thrill of cycling world class bike trails, fish, picnic, watch wildlife, launch your canoe on the rivers, visit megalithic sites or just sit and enjoy the outdoors. The choice is yours.For maps and details visit www.coillteoutdoors.ie

    Canal TowpathsNumerous inland waterways in Ireland offer a different walking experience. The midlands is one area

  • Top walks in Ireland 57

    particularly rich in canals old trade routes at the forefront of transport in the 1700s. Towpaths have been modernised providing a perfect amenity for walkers of all ages. For further information visit www.iwai.ie

    Pilgrim paths Uniquely Irish in character, pilgrim paths follow the centuries old pilgrimage routes so entwined in Irish heritage. There are five pilgrim paths around Ireland each with its own distinct tale and dotted with ancient religious monuments. Visit www.heritagecouncil.ie

    Ireland Walking FestivalsWalking Festivals take place all over Ireland throughout the year. They are a great way to discover Ireland at its best with a lively mix of organised walks suiting all levels and ability, great accommodation and nightly entertainment in local pubs & hotels. Everything is organised from the walks, food, accommodation & transfers making it a great weekend away at any time of the year. Below is a sample of the main festivals by region taking place each year. For dates and a full listing see www.discoverireland.ie/walking

    South EastGlen of Aherlow Summer Walking Festival, Tipperary. June bank holiday weekend each year Nire Valley, Waterford Walking Festival October each year Carlow Autumn Festival October each year

    East Coast & MidlandsTin Walking Festival - March each year Laois Walks Festival - June each year Wicklow Walking Festival - September

    ShannonThe Slieve Blooms Walking Festival- May bank holiday weekend each year

    Ballyhoura Walking Festival- May bank holiday weekend each year Burren Peaks Walking Festival-September

    WestCastlebar 4 days walks Festival - July each year St Patricks Heritage Way Walking Festival, Co. Mayo - MarchLeenaun Walking Festival, Co. Galway - May bank holiday weekendAchill Island Walking Festival - June

    Ireland Leave No Trace outdoor ethics

    The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace1. Plan Ahead and Prepare 2. Be Considerate of Others 3. Respect Farm Animals and Wildlife 4. Travel and Camp on Durable Ground 5. Leave What You Find 6. Dispose of Waste Properly 7. Minimise the Effects of Fire

    Further information: www.leavenotraceireland.org

  • 58 Top walks in Ireland

    Notes

  • Top walks in Ireland 59

    Notes

  • Disclaimer: Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy in the compilation

    of this brochure. Filte Ireland cannot, however accept responsibility for errors

    or omissions. Some sporting activities may by their nature be hazardous and

    involve risk. It is recommended in such cases to take out personal accident

    insurance. While most outdoor activity operators would have public liability

    insurance it is desirable to check with the establishment or with the operator

    concerned as to the level of cover carried.

    FI/11008-11

    Filte Ireland,Amiens Street, Dublin 1

    Tel: 1890 525 525 / +353 1 884 7700Fax: +353 1 855 6821

    www.failteireland.iewww.discoverireland.iewww.discoverireland.com

    the maIN tourIst oFFIces by regIoN are:

    east & midlandsMarket square, Mullingar Co. Westmeatht. 044 9348650W. www.discoverireland.ie/eastcoast

    south east41 The QuayCo. Waterfordt. 051 87823W. www.discoverireland.ie/southeast

    south Westras Filte, Grand ParadeCorkt. 021 4255100W. www.discoverireland.ie/southwest

    North WestTemple StreetSligot. 071 9161201W. www.discoverireland.ie/northwest

    Failte Ireland WestForster StreetGalway Cityt. 091 537700W. www.discoverireland.ie/west

    shannon regionShannon Town CentreCo. Claret. 061 361555W. www.discoverireland.ie/shannon

    DublinDublin Tourism Centre, Suffolk StDublin 2t. 01 6057700W. www.visitdublin.com

    There are regional tourist information offices all over Ireland who provide a broad range of local tourist information.