filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #filippa 3/13 compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired...

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Page 1: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 1/13

Filippa by

Page 2: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 2/13

A minimalistic, loose shirt dress with gorgeousvoluminous bishop sleeves. This dress can be worn loose or

be gathered in for a more tailored look.

Filippa by

XS - XXXL

Page 3: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 3/13

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines and then spreading the pattern pieces out X cm from each other or overlapping them. Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams all run straight through.

measurements

* The sleeve length includes the shoulder.

size

length (cm)

sleeve* (cm)

1/2 CS (cm)

XS

96.5

59.5

53.25

S

97.5

60.5

57.25

M

98.5

61.75

61.25

L

100.5

63

65.25

XL

104

65.25

70.25

XXL

106.5

67

76.25

XXXL

108

68.5

82.25

sizing chart

size

EUR

UK

CS (cm)

HM (cm)

XS

32 34

4 6

76 80

86 90

S

36 38

8 10

84 88

94 97

M

40 42

12 14

92 96

100 103

L

44 46

16 18

100 104

106 109

XL

48 50

20 22

110 116

115 120

XXL

52 54

32 34

122 128

125 130

XXXL

56 58 60

24 26 28

134 140 144

135 140 145

Chest size (CS): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the bust. Hip measurement (HM): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the lower body.

HM

CS

• Thread

• Buttons (ø 1 cm): 11

• Iron-oninterfacing 25 cm

• Bias tape: see table(Optional, becausesupplied pattern pieces8 and 9 can be usedto create bias tapeout of the fabric)

• Fabric: see table

size

bias tape (cm)

XS

177.5

S

187

M

194.25

L

201.5

XL

208.75

XXL

219

XXXL

230

notions

* 140 cm wide

size

fabric* (cm)

XS

275

S

285

M

295

L-XL

310

XXL

320

XXXL

330

fabric used without bias tape

** 162 cm wide

size

fabric** (cm)

XS

280

S

300

M

310

L

325

XL

340

XXL

385

XXXL

405

* 140 cm wide / ** 162 cm wide

size

fabric* (cm)

fabric** (cm)

XS

345

280

S-M

375

310

L

385

325

XL

405

340

XXL

320

405

XXXL

330

430

using fabric with bias tape

IMP

O

RTANT

Adapt the amount of fabric used to the alterations that you are making to the pattern!

Page 4: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

4/13#Filippa

• The Filippa Dress is the perfect cotton dress. We used cotton with a fine horizontal stripe.

• It isn’t a problem if the fabric is somewhat stiffer, because this provides the sleeves with a lovely effect. Opt for a trendy linen for a summery look.

fabric advice

pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)

front: 2x back: 1x on fabric fold sleeve: 2xcollar: 2x on fabric fold collar band: 2x on fabric fold wrist trim: 2x pocket: 4xbias tape for hem facing front: 2x (optional)bias tape for hem facing back: 1x on fabric fold (optional)

Draw a seam allowance of 1 cm all the way around the paper pattern pieces unless stated otherwise in the illustrations. The sides of pattern pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9 that lie on the fabric fold ( ) do not have any seam allowance.

Indicate important points on the outline of the pattern:

• by making a nick where a vertical stripe ( ) is or double vertical stripes ( ) are

• by cutting a notch out where a V notch ( ) is

• cut a small corner out of pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9, which lie on the fabric fold, to mark the middle of these pieces.

Mark the places for the buttons ( ), button holes ( ) and the pockets ( ) using a needle and thread.

1 2

6

9

8

3

7

5

4

4

12345

6789

IMP

O

RTANT

The pieces highlighted in light yellow require iron-on interfacing to be attached to the wrong side.

0

0.5 0.5

1.5

0

0

0

0

1.5

Page 5: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 5/13

fabric plan

1. Fabric plan for a standard fabric width of 140 cm

2 4

6 1

7

5

7

5 4

9

8

3

3

2. Fabric plan for a fabric width of 162 cm (fabric used for Filippa dress)

XS-XL2 4

6 1

7

5

7

5 4

3

XXL-XXXL2 4

6 1

7

5

7

5 4

9

8

3

3

Lay pattern piece 3 1x with the right side facing up and 1x with the right side facing down, so that you end up with a left and right sleeve.

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

Lay pattern piece 3 1x with the right side facing up and 1x with the right side facing down, so that you end up with a left and right sleeve.

9

8

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

Page 6: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 6/13

aCut a piece of fabric away from the LF (1) on the indicated cutting line.

Press 2.5 cm of this LF over to the wrong side, and then press a further 3 cm over to where the upper and lower V notches are located. Pin into place.

sewing instructions

MV

1LVP

2,5cm

1RVP

3cm

1LVP

1

Key with symbolsand abbreviations used

The method used to finish sewing the garment dependson the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the fabric matching

exactly, unless stated otherwise.

Legende Filippa

1 (cijfers) = DIN NEXT LT PRO / 16 pt

goede kant

averechtse kant

strijkbare tussenvoering

middenvoor

rechtervoorpand

linkervoorpand

middenrug

right side

reverse side

interfacing

centre front

centre back

right front panel

left front panel

CV

CB

RFP

LFP

Page 7: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 7/13

bPress the right front of the fabric over 2x to the centre front, always at the V notches.

3 cm away from the CF line, stitch through all the layers. Create the buttonholes on the right section of the buttonhole placket. The top and bottom of the buttonhole are marked on the pattern. Divide the distance between these evenly to make the other buttonholes.

Fold the buttonhole placket in half.

cFold one short side of the bias tape facing the front hem (8) (or purchased bias tape) 1 cm onto the wrong side. Press the bias tape in half with the right side facing outward.

Pin and sew the bias tape 0.5 cm from the hem of both RF and LF. Along with the seam allowance, fold it out of the way and sew the bias tape into place at 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.

Now fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch in place.

1RVP

3 cm

8

8

1

1LVP

1LVP

1

8

18

8

8

1

1LVP

1LVP

1

8

18

8

8

1

1LVP

1LVP

1

8

18

Page 8: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

#Filippa 8/13

7

7

2

aPress the bias tape facing the back hem (9) (or the purchased bias tape) in half with the right side facing outward. Pin and sew 0.5 cm from the hem.

Along with the seam allowance, fold it out of the way and sew the bias tape into place at 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.

Now fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch in place.

dOverlock the shoulder and side seams of the RF and LF and the right-hand side of the pocket (7).

Pin and sew this right-hand side to the front between the basting threads. Cut along the bias of the front seam allow-ance. Along with the seam allowance, fold the pocket piece out of the way and stitch 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.

Press the pocket all the way to the wrong side of the front.

7

7

9

2

9

2

2

2

9

9

7

7

7

7

Page 9: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

9/13#Filippa

bOverlock the shoulder and side seams and the right-hand side of the pocket.

Pin and sew this right-hand side to the back between the basting threads.

7

3

Pin and sew the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance open.

7

7

Page 10: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

10/13#Filippa

4

aPin and sew the contour of the collars (4) to each other, except for the bottom. Grade seam allowances and trim at corners.

Fold the collars side-by-side and fold the seam allowance toward the sewn undercollar. 2 mm from the seam, sew through all the layers of the undercollar. Afterwards, match both collar pieces neatly.

bPress 1 cm toward the wrong side of the bottom of one collar band (5).

cStack the collar bands with the right sides together. The collar band with the pressed bottom should be on top. Slide the collar between. The undercollar should be on top. Pin and sew the collar and the collar bands together. Grade and trim the curve of the collar band. Neatly press flat.

dPin and sew the bottom of the collar band that has not been pressed to the neck along the inside (= back) of the dress.

Fold the collar and the collar band toward the right side of the dress and place the edge of the pressed collar band directly on the seam. Pin and sew the collar band in place.

Finish the stitching around the collar band.

4

4

4

5

211

45

Page 11: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

11/13#Filippa

b Pin and sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole with the matching nicks. Distribute the ‘excess’ fabric evenly between the nicks.

Finish the raw edges together using an overlock stitch.

32

1 1

3

2

1

6

aFold the sleeve and the dress in half with the right side of the fabric facing inward. Pin and stitch the underarm and side seams over and under the pocket opening. Make sure to put the pocket pieces far enough to the side when sewing the side seams. Press the seam allowance open.

3

5

a Overlock the sleeve sides (3).

Page 12: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

12/13#Filippa

bPin the contours of the pocket pieces and sew at 1.5 cm. To do this, move the front and back panels out of the way. Overlock the raw edges.

1LVP

3

33

7

aInsert gathering threads: sew two parallel rows to the bottom of the sleeves with a large stitch length and at a low thread tension. Make sure to leave a little thread at the beginning and at the end of the stitching, so that you can pull on the threads and create pleating in the fabric. Distribute the pleats evenly.

bPress the bottom of the wrist trim (6) 1 cm onto the wrong side and fold back down. Sew the short ends right sides together. Press the seam allowance open and cut the fabric away toward the ends. Fold the wrist trim in half lengthwise with the right side facing outward and fold the 1 cm seam allowance that you pressed earlier back up.

6

Page 13: Filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #Filippa 3/13 Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces

13/13#Filippa

cPin the side of the wrist trim that hasn’t been pressed to the inside of the sleeve, matching the notches to the seams. Distribute the pleats evenly. Sew in place.

Fold the wrist trim toward the right side of the sleeve and place the pressed edge directly on the seam. Pin and sew in place.

Remove the gathering threads.

8

Make a horizontal buttonhole on the collar band on the right front panel.

Sew all of the buttons on.

6

6

9

For the belt, use a flexible natural-colored cord (Ø 1 cm) of ap-proximately 180 to 200 cm. Wrap both ends with Lurex thread. Sew them neatly in place and... you’re done!