filippa by · 2018-08-27 · #filippa 3/13 compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired...
TRANSCRIPT
#Filippa 1/13
Filippa by
#Filippa 2/13
A minimalistic, loose shirt dress with gorgeousvoluminous bishop sleeves. This dress can be worn loose or
be gathered in for a more tailored look.
Filippa by
XS - XXXL
#Filippa 3/13
Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines and then spreading the pattern pieces out X cm from each other or overlapping them. Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams all run straight through.
measurements
* The sleeve length includes the shoulder.
size
length (cm)
sleeve* (cm)
1/2 CS (cm)
XS
96.5
59.5
53.25
S
97.5
60.5
57.25
M
98.5
61.75
61.25
L
100.5
63
65.25
XL
104
65.25
70.25
XXL
106.5
67
76.25
XXXL
108
68.5
82.25
sizing chart
size
EUR
UK
CS (cm)
HM (cm)
XS
32 34
4 6
76 80
86 90
S
36 38
8 10
84 88
94 97
M
40 42
12 14
92 96
100 103
L
44 46
16 18
100 104
106 109
XL
48 50
20 22
110 116
115 120
XXL
52 54
32 34
122 128
125 130
XXXL
56 58 60
24 26 28
134 140 144
135 140 145
Chest size (CS): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the bust. Hip measurement (HM): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the lower body.
HM
CS
• Thread
• Buttons (ø 1 cm): 11
• Iron-oninterfacing 25 cm
• Bias tape: see table(Optional, becausesupplied pattern pieces8 and 9 can be usedto create bias tapeout of the fabric)
• Fabric: see table
size
bias tape (cm)
XS
177.5
S
187
M
194.25
L
201.5
XL
208.75
XXL
219
XXXL
230
notions
* 140 cm wide
size
fabric* (cm)
XS
275
S
285
M
295
L-XL
310
XXL
320
XXXL
330
fabric used without bias tape
** 162 cm wide
size
fabric** (cm)
XS
280
S
300
M
310
L
325
XL
340
XXL
385
XXXL
405
* 140 cm wide / ** 162 cm wide
size
fabric* (cm)
fabric** (cm)
XS
345
280
S-M
375
310
L
385
325
XL
405
340
XXL
320
405
XXXL
330
430
using fabric with bias tape
IMP
O
RTANT
Adapt the amount of fabric used to the alterations that you are making to the pattern!
4/13#Filippa
• The Filippa Dress is the perfect cotton dress. We used cotton with a fine horizontal stripe.
• It isn’t a problem if the fabric is somewhat stiffer, because this provides the sleeves with a lovely effect. Opt for a trendy linen for a summery look.
fabric advice
pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)
front: 2x back: 1x on fabric fold sleeve: 2xcollar: 2x on fabric fold collar band: 2x on fabric fold wrist trim: 2x pocket: 4xbias tape for hem facing front: 2x (optional)bias tape for hem facing back: 1x on fabric fold (optional)
Draw a seam allowance of 1 cm all the way around the paper pattern pieces unless stated otherwise in the illustrations. The sides of pattern pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9 that lie on the fabric fold ( ) do not have any seam allowance.
Indicate important points on the outline of the pattern:
• by making a nick where a vertical stripe ( ) is or double vertical stripes ( ) are
• by cutting a notch out where a V notch ( ) is
• cut a small corner out of pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9, which lie on the fabric fold, to mark the middle of these pieces.
Mark the places for the buttons ( ), button holes ( ) and the pockets ( ) using a needle and thread.
1 2
6
9
8
3
7
5
4
4
12345
6789
IMP
O
RTANT
The pieces highlighted in light yellow require iron-on interfacing to be attached to the wrong side.
0
0.5 0.5
1.5
0
0
0
0
1.5
#Filippa 5/13
fabric plan
1. Fabric plan for a standard fabric width of 140 cm
2 4
6 1
7
5
7
5 4
9
8
3
3
2. Fabric plan for a fabric width of 162 cm (fabric used for Filippa dress)
XS-XL2 4
6 1
7
5
7
5 4
3
XXL-XXXL2 4
6 1
7
5
7
5 4
9
8
3
3
Lay pattern piece 3 1x with the right side facing up and 1x with the right side facing down, so that you end up with a left and right sleeve.
FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD
FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD
Lay pattern piece 3 1x with the right side facing up and 1x with the right side facing down, so that you end up with a left and right sleeve.
9
8
SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
#Filippa 6/13
aCut a piece of fabric away from the LF (1) on the indicated cutting line.
Press 2.5 cm of this LF over to the wrong side, and then press a further 3 cm over to where the upper and lower V notches are located. Pin into place.
sewing instructions
MV
1LVP
2,5cm
1RVP
3cm
1LVP
1
Key with symbolsand abbreviations used
The method used to finish sewing the garment dependson the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the fabric matching
exactly, unless stated otherwise.
Legende Filippa
1 (cijfers) = DIN NEXT LT PRO / 16 pt
goede kant
averechtse kant
strijkbare tussenvoering
middenvoor
rechtervoorpand
linkervoorpand
middenrug
right side
reverse side
interfacing
centre front
centre back
right front panel
left front panel
CV
CB
RFP
LFP
#Filippa 7/13
bPress the right front of the fabric over 2x to the centre front, always at the V notches.
3 cm away from the CF line, stitch through all the layers. Create the buttonholes on the right section of the buttonhole placket. The top and bottom of the buttonhole are marked on the pattern. Divide the distance between these evenly to make the other buttonholes.
Fold the buttonhole placket in half.
cFold one short side of the bias tape facing the front hem (8) (or purchased bias tape) 1 cm onto the wrong side. Press the bias tape in half with the right side facing outward.
Pin and sew the bias tape 0.5 cm from the hem of both RF and LF. Along with the seam allowance, fold it out of the way and sew the bias tape into place at 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.
Now fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch in place.
1RVP
3 cm
8
8
1
1LVP
1LVP
1
8
18
8
8
1
1LVP
1LVP
1
8
18
8
8
1
1LVP
1LVP
1
8
18
#Filippa 8/13
7
7
2
aPress the bias tape facing the back hem (9) (or the purchased bias tape) in half with the right side facing outward. Pin and sew 0.5 cm from the hem.
Along with the seam allowance, fold it out of the way and sew the bias tape into place at 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.
Now fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch in place.
dOverlock the shoulder and side seams of the RF and LF and the right-hand side of the pocket (7).
Pin and sew this right-hand side to the front between the basting threads. Cut along the bias of the front seam allow-ance. Along with the seam allowance, fold the pocket piece out of the way and stitch 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric.
Press the pocket all the way to the wrong side of the front.
7
7
9
2
9
2
2
2
9
9
7
7
7
7
9/13#Filippa
bOverlock the shoulder and side seams and the right-hand side of the pocket.
Pin and sew this right-hand side to the back between the basting threads.
7
3
Pin and sew the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance open.
7
7
10/13#Filippa
4
aPin and sew the contour of the collars (4) to each other, except for the bottom. Grade seam allowances and trim at corners.
Fold the collars side-by-side and fold the seam allowance toward the sewn undercollar. 2 mm from the seam, sew through all the layers of the undercollar. Afterwards, match both collar pieces neatly.
bPress 1 cm toward the wrong side of the bottom of one collar band (5).
cStack the collar bands with the right sides together. The collar band with the pressed bottom should be on top. Slide the collar between. The undercollar should be on top. Pin and sew the collar and the collar bands together. Grade and trim the curve of the collar band. Neatly press flat.
dPin and sew the bottom of the collar band that has not been pressed to the neck along the inside (= back) of the dress.
Fold the collar and the collar band toward the right side of the dress and place the edge of the pressed collar band directly on the seam. Pin and sew the collar band in place.
Finish the stitching around the collar band.
4
4
4
5
211
45
11/13#Filippa
b Pin and sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole with the matching nicks. Distribute the ‘excess’ fabric evenly between the nicks.
Finish the raw edges together using an overlock stitch.
32
1 1
3
2
1
6
aFold the sleeve and the dress in half with the right side of the fabric facing inward. Pin and stitch the underarm and side seams over and under the pocket opening. Make sure to put the pocket pieces far enough to the side when sewing the side seams. Press the seam allowance open.
3
5
a Overlock the sleeve sides (3).
12/13#Filippa
bPin the contours of the pocket pieces and sew at 1.5 cm. To do this, move the front and back panels out of the way. Overlock the raw edges.
1LVP
3
33
7
aInsert gathering threads: sew two parallel rows to the bottom of the sleeves with a large stitch length and at a low thread tension. Make sure to leave a little thread at the beginning and at the end of the stitching, so that you can pull on the threads and create pleating in the fabric. Distribute the pleats evenly.
bPress the bottom of the wrist trim (6) 1 cm onto the wrong side and fold back down. Sew the short ends right sides together. Press the seam allowance open and cut the fabric away toward the ends. Fold the wrist trim in half lengthwise with the right side facing outward and fold the 1 cm seam allowance that you pressed earlier back up.
6
13/13#Filippa
cPin the side of the wrist trim that hasn’t been pressed to the inside of the sleeve, matching the notches to the seams. Distribute the pleats evenly. Sew in place.
Fold the wrist trim toward the right side of the sleeve and place the pressed edge directly on the seam. Pin and sew in place.
Remove the gathering threads.
8
Make a horizontal buttonhole on the collar band on the right front panel.
Sew all of the buttons on.
6
6
9
For the belt, use a flexible natural-colored cord (Ø 1 cm) of ap-proximately 180 to 200 cm. Wrap both ends with Lurex thread. Sew them neatly in place and... you’re done!