FINISHING

Submitted By:

Shan Salah Ud Din Nabeel Shan

Syed Ahsan Ali

1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are very thankful to all those people who are cooperated with us and groomed

us during our Trainee program in dyeing department. Our trainee could not have

been successful without guidance of these personalities. Special thanks to:

Mr. Rana Shahbaz (GM)

Mr. Qayyum Aslam (DGM)

Mr. Kamran (Manager)

Mr. Zeeshan Hashmi (Manager)

Mr. Shahrukh Zaidi (Senior Assistant Manager)

Mr. Tanveer Hussain (A.M)

And thanks to all the Supervisors, Shift In charges, Assistant Managers and

Operators of the Finishing Department.

2

FINISHING

General Overview:

1.1. Introduction:

In textile sector, finishing are the processes in which knitted/weaved cloth is converted into its

final shape. In which quality, GSM, width, shrinkage and skewness of the fabric is controlled

and make the fabric more soft and good hand feel.

1.2. Processes:

The several processes which are done in finishing;

Slitting (Tube to Open)

Drying

Santax/Stenter

Raising

Compactor (Compaction)

Tumble

Finishing

Tube to Open Form

Softener Application

Drying Raising Compaction

3

Slitting:

The slitting is done for achieving following functions;

To convert tube form fabric into open form

Used to remove excess water after dyeing

Drying:

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the

fabric. Following functions are performed during drying;

To dry the fabric with the help of heated oil or steam

To control the shrinkage of the fabric

To prepare the fabric for the next subsequent process

Raising:

The raising is a process in which the terry form of the fabric is converted into the fleece.

Basically, it gives a softy surface by removing the fluff type fibers from the cloth and pulling the

fiber end to the surface.

Compaction:

The main objectives for doing compaction are;

Control the final width, GSM, shrinkage and skewness of the fabric

Upgrade the fabric hand feel and import a smooth, softy touch to the fabric

Compress the fabric and reduce its thickness

Removes the creases in the fabric

4

CHAPTER 01

Slitting

1.1- Introduction:

The slitting machine is used to slit/cut the tube form fabric into open form in finishing section.

The machine consists of a blade and a sensor is attached to the blade which senses the needle line

during slitting. In the slitting machine, the fabric is firstly passed through rope squeezer. In

squeezer there are mini-paddlers that squeeze the rope and then passed it to the bucket from

which the rope is passed to the de- twister. De- twister removes the twist in the rope and then

passed it to the basket. There is an exhaust fan over the basket for circular dropping of the fabric

and the blade for cutting the needle line of the fabric. Open form of the fabric is then passed from

the padding roller, dancing roller and delivery roller. Finally the open form fabric is delivered to

the next finishing process.

Fig: 1.1 Slitting Machine

5

1.1.1- Layout:

1.2- Machine Function

Open the fabric from tube form

Reduce the water content

Apply overfeed to give some compaction.

Width wise stretch the fabric.

Plait the fabric.

1.3- Machine Data

Brand name = CORINO Machine

Commercial name = Super slit Machine

Making Year (3 machines) = 2013, 2010, 2003

Rope Squeezer De- Twister Basket with

Blade & Sensor

De - Curling Rollers

Water Dipping Padders

Lapping

6

1.4- Production Plan and Machine Cleaning Control

1.4-1. Production Plan

Total number of machines = 3

Slit Machine 1 = Light shades/New color/Samples

Slit Machine 2 = Full - Bleach or Grey Shades

Slit machine 3 = Dark Shades

1.4-2. Machine Cleaning Control

Cleaning between two shades with water and air

After every lot, the water used for dipping is changed

Cleaning of curling rollers with air pressure to remove the dust and fluff from the rollers

1.5- Capacity and Maintenance Schedule

1.5-1. Fabric Wise Capacity per Shift

Terry = 4000-5000 Kg

LSF (Low Shrinkage Fleece) = 4000-5000 Kg

Single (Jersey) = 3000 Kg

Rib = 3500 Kg

1.5-2. Fabric Wise Capacity per Day

Terry = 13.5 Ton

LSF (Low Shrinkage Fleece) = 13.5 Ton

Single (Jersey) = 12 Ton

Rib = 12 Ton

1.6- Annual and Monthly Maintenance Schedule

1.6-1. Monthly Maintenance Schedule

Check out the motor working and greases the motor parts e.g. Shaft

Grease the bearings of water slitting device and driving screw for basket opening

1.6-2. Annually Maintenance Schedule

Check the motor /de-twister speed and motor belts condition

The blade used for cutting also changed on demand

7

The squeezers and padders are also checked so that pressure drop not occur

Change gear oil once in a year

1.7- Operation:

The tube form fabric slitting is done as;

Rope form fabric placed in trolley

It is passed through the squeezing unit where most of liquid is extracted

Then it enters the de-twister, which eliminates the tension/twist of the rope and is

prepared for the slitting

Then untwist form fabric is transferred to the basket. The cutting line can be controlled

by means of basket rotation

Then fabric passed through blade and slitting is done. Passed the fabric from de-curling

rollers to removes the curls

Passed the slitted fabric from padders having almost 1 bar pressure in which most of the

water is squeezed

After squeezing the fabric it go to the plaiter to plait on trolley

8

1.8- Machine Construction

The slitting machine is constructed on the basis of the following parameters;

Lapping methods

Roll-to-roll stitching according to needle line

Machine speed according to fabric

Quality control

Loop pulling needle line

1.8-1. Lapping Methods

Open form fabric is placed into trolley by using rollers moving with motor. The fabric is

basically lapped one by one on the fabric surface. For this lapping, speed of the rollers is

adjusted according to the fabric.

1.8-2. Roll-to-roll Stitching according to Needle Line

Fabric is passed over the blade and that place is detected by sensor/camera which is called needle

point of the fabric and the blade cuts the fabric from the line. Roll to roll stitching is done in

invertor department where one roll is attached/stitched with the other roll so that needle line is

matched by the both rollers.

1.8-3. Machine Speed According to Fabric

Terry = 50-60m/min

LSF (Low Shrinkage Fleece) = 40-50m/min

Rib = 30m/min

Jersey (Single) = 60-70m/min

1.8-4. Quality Control

In quality, fabric is then checked whether the cutting is done at the needle point or there may be

some kind of inaccuracy during slitting. But mostly the fabric is directly moved towards the next

process and quality is checked out at the end.

1.8-5. Loop Pulling Needle Line

The rollers on the machine rotate the fabric needle line in front of the blade for slitting. Basically

they pull the loop needle line towards the blade. Sometimes blade pulls the needle line fabric out

that is not required. That condition shows the expiry of blade.

9

1.9- Utilities Needed

Water (Washing/Cleaning purpose)

Electricity

Compressed air (to form the tube fabric into balloon form and for cleaning purposes)

1.10- Man Power

Operators per machine required = 2

First operator is present to operate the machine

Second operator/loader is present to do other work like adjustments of trolley and to

check the fabric alignment to adjust the lapping methods

1.11- Safety and Fire Handling

Safety and fire handling is not just the saving of accidents of peoples and M/C. It also includes

the operation of M/C in proper way. The operation on the machine must be correct and according

to the procedure so that there will be no chance of problem in fabric. Keep the floor clean so that

there will be no slippage on floor.

10

CHAPTER 02

Santax

2.1- Introduction

Santex is used for the removal of water contained in the fabric by applying heat on the fabric. In

this machine, the fabric is passed through dryer at a very low speed. Drying is done by applying

steam through the dryer. During drying the total heat passed through the machine is extracted by

the exhaust fan.

Fig: 2.1 Santex Machine

2.2- Functions of Santex Machine

To dry the fabric with the help of heat

To prepare the fabric for the next finishing process

To remove residual water containing in the fabric

Usually trim fabric passed from this

11

2.3- Working Principle of Dryer

The machine contains two chambers. In which steam lines are passed for drying purposes. Two

conveyors are placed for the movement of fabric from wet state to dryer state. Each chamber has

its own steam and condensate line. These are usually 2 pass chambers. Every chamber has its

own exhaust which meets with the main exhaust.

We passed those fabric from santex in which usually we have no concern with shrinkage, width

and GSM. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the machine and the GSM of the

fabric. If the machine temperature is high then machine speed is also high and the machine

temperature is low than the machine speed is also low.

Fig: 2.2 Schematic diagram of Santex

2.4- Machine Data

Machine Name = SANTAX

Model Number = CH-9555 TOBEL

Making Year = 1994

Manufacturer = Switzerland

12

2.5- Production Plan and Machine Cleaning Control

Production Plan

Fabric Type Temperature

(oC)

Speed

(m/min)

Single Jersey 65 30

PK 65 20-30

1*1 Rib 65-70 25

Machine Cleaning Control

To clean the machine with compressed air

To check and clean the conveyor belt

2.6- Man Power

One operator is present to operate the machine in a correct manner.

2.7- Utilities Needed

Steam

Compressed Air

Electricity

13

CHAPTER 03

Stenter Machine

3.1- Introduction:

Stenter is a machine that is used for drying of fabric. The main difference between santex and

stenter is that in stenter we deals with many controlling parameters e.g. GSM, width and

shrinkage. But santex is used for just drying purpose and only trim/strips are passes through it.

The purpose of the Stenter machine is to maintain the width and GSM of the fabric and also

for heat setting and it is used for applying final softener applications.

Fig: 3.1 Stenter Machine

3.2- Functions of Stenter Machine:

Control the width of the fabric

Control the GSM of the fabric

Control the Shrinkage/Skewness of the fabric

Final softener applications

Fabric drying

14

3.3- Machine data

There are three Stenter machines in Style Textile.

Stenter-1

Brand Name = SHAOYANG NO.2T M.W

Chambers = 5

Year of construction = 2003

Manufacturer = China

Stenter-2

Brand Name = VIROCK

Chambers = 6

Year of Construction = 2011

Manufacturer = China

Stenter-3

Brand Name = EHWHA

Chambers = 10

Year of Construction = 2015

Manufacturer = Korea

3.3- Production Plan

Production plan of the Stenter machine is based on 1st in 1

st out. Fabric which is slitted 1

st is dry

and compacted 1st and vice versa. Shift incharge is planned the production capacity of the shift.

3.4- Machine Cleaning Control

Final machine cleaning is done in the 1st shift (7am-8am) usually. During shift, before new color

(light/dark) and softener changes cleaning are usually done.

15

If the dark shade in the machine is processed and then light shade fabric is processed cleaning

must be done with water and compressed air. If we change the softener type then there is also

need of cleaning before the processing of new fabric.

3.5- Capacity:

Capacity of the fabric depends upon the type of fabric/color/speed.

Stenter-1 (SHAOYANG) = Colored/Samples

Stenter-2 (VIROCK) = White/light shades (130oC)

Stenter-3 (EHWHA) = Black/Dark Shades (180oC)

Fabric wise:

Stenter-1 (SHAOYANG)

Single Jersey = 9 Tons/day

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 10.5 Tons/day

Stenter-2 (VIROCK)

Single Jersey = 9 Tons/day

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 10.5 Tons/day

Stenter-3 (EHWHA)

Single Jersey = About 17 Tons/day

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 22 Tons/day

3.6- Machine Speed:

Stenter-1 (SHAOYANG)

Single Jersey = 25 m/min

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 20 m/min

16

Stenter-2 (VIROCK)

Single Jersey = 26 m/min

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 18 m/min

Stenter-3 (EHWHA)

Single Jersey = 60 m/min

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 35-40 m/min

3.7- Machine Construction and Operation:

Solution making

In solution making, concentration of softener or any other special finish that is applied to the

fabric is maintained. In Stenter machine 100 liter tank is attached which has a capacity to do

chemical dipping about 300 Kg fabric. Usually RGH softener is used for softener application

Curling Rollers

These rollers are used to remove the curls from the fabric.

Over feed rollers

Over feed rollers are used to maintain the GSM/Width of the fabric and it also imparts the

tension towards fabric.

Skewness roll function

There are two rollers in the Stenter machine that is used to control the skewness of the fabric.

Two type of twist are used. For Z-twist, the right roller is used to adjust the right angle of the

fabric. For S-twist, the left roller is used to adjust the left angle of the fabric.

Fig: 3.2 over Feed & Skewness Rollers

17

Wheel Over Feed Brush Function

It is a roller wheel that feed the fabric to the pins of Stenter machine and the brushes are used to

hit the fabric into the clips.

Fig: 3.3 Over Feed Brush

Main over Feed

It is a roller that feed all the fabric to the stenter after squeezed from the padders.

Fig: 3.4 Main Over Feed

Dandy Roller

These are also called dancing rollers and it is used to impart the tension into the fabric for

complete stretching. If there is tension in the fabric then they move up and down.

Heating Chambers

In heating chambers there is process of drying. Air comes from atmosphere and move in the

chamber with the help of fans from top to bottom of the chamber. Heated oil is passed through

18

the coils of the chamber so that air becomes hot and dries the fabric as much as we desired. Oil is

continuously circulated through the chambers and exchanges heat with the air about 10-150C.

Hot air is passed through the fins of heat exchanger and exchange heat with the fabric. Moist air

is pulled from the chamber with the help of blower and exhausted into the atmosphere.

Inlet temperature of heated oil = 1750C

Outlet temperature of oil = 1600C

Inlet temperature of air = Almost 280C

Outlet temperature of air = 1550C

Fig: 3.5 Heating chamber & Filter

Fig: 3.6 Internal View of heating chamber

19

Cooling

After heating chambers, there is a system of cooling of fabric. When the fabric is coming out

from chambers its temperature is almost 1100C. Temperature of the fabric is reduced to 70

0C by

passing it through cooled air. Air is passed through nozzles to create high velocity of air. After

that fabric is passed to lapping rollers.

Lapping Rollers

The lapping rollers are the rollers that roll the fabric one after the other. They are also called

delivery rollers.

Fig: 3.7 Lapping Rollers

Width Adjustment

The width is adjusted by the clips of the Stenter machine because according to instructions the

width plate is open and stretch the fabric until the required width is not achieved.

Temperature and Speed

For light/medium shades = 130oC

For Dark Shades = 160oC

Single Jersey = 60 m/min

Low shrinkage fleece (LSF)/Terry = 35-40 m/min

20

3.8- Operation:

After slitting fabric is send to stenter machine where heat setting is applied

Slit fabric is firstly passed from centric unit so that fabric position remains in the center

After that its passes through different types of rollers to remove side curls.

Water application is applied to fabric before softener addition and passed through padder

Softener applications applied and then passed the fabric through pressurized padder to

squeeze the fabric

Soft fabric is then passed through over feed rollers for over feeding of the fabric in case

of width/GSM adjustment

Fabric is also passed through brush wheel before heat setting so that fabric is attached

with the pins

Fabric is then passed through dryer chambers for drying of the fabric in which oil heat is

exchange with the fabric and fabric is dried

After that dried fabric is passed to delivery roller

Then lapped in the delivery trolley and fabric is ready for next finishing process

Fig: 3.8 Fabric passage through Stenter

21

3.9- Quality control

Hand feel

Shrinkage

Skewness

Width

GSM

3.10- Man power

Operator per machine = 3

1 is in the front feeding section, 2nd

is on panel board and 3rd

one is at the end where lapping is

done.

3.11- Utilities

Water

Compressed Air

Thermo-oil

Electricity

Lay out:

Centric Unit De - Curling

Rollers Water

Dipping Padding Rollers

Dancing Rollers

Chemical Dipping

Padding Rollers

Main Over Feed

Heating Chambers

Cooling Zone Lapping

22

CHAPTER 04

Raising Machine

4.1- Introduction

A finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving

cylinders having metal pins for raising of the fabric. Mostly, terry and LSF fabric is passed through this

stage. Machine also includes some rotating brushes. Speed of rollers adjusted the amount of

raising of the fabric. With different speed and direction we can get different effects. The raising

effect can also be obtained by adjusting the fabric tension or by adjusting the speed and the roller

rotation direction.

Fig: 4.1 Raising Machine

23

4.2- Machine Data, Production Plan & Capacity:

Raising # 3

Brand Haining

Model MA473D

Year of Construction 2009

Max. Fabric Speed 8.12 – 16.20 m/min

Capacity 4500 kg/Day

Raising # 4 & 2

Brand YANCHENG ZHIDA TEXTILE MECHANICAL

Model MA435H

Year of Construction 2010

Max. Fabric Speed 6 – 30 m/min

Capacity 7500 kg/Day

24

Raising # 2 & 6

Brand Haining

Manufacturer China

Model MA8768A

Year of Construction 2014

Max. Fabric Speed 10 – 30 m/min

Capacity 7500 kg/Day

Raising # 5

Brand TEXLINK

Manufacturer China

Model TRSM – 36 – 2400

Year of Construction 2015

Max. Fabric Speed 30 m/min

Capacity 9000 kg/Day

25

4.3- Machine Construction & Operation:

The function of a raising machine is to produce a hairy surface on a fabric; this effect is made

through a series of needles. Series of rollers that are called raising rollers are placed on a flange

with circular settlement; these rollers are covered by an ordered alignment of needles. The

raising rollers are divided between ―pile‖ and ―counter pile‖ raising rollers, according to the

direction which the needles are plied.

Fig: 4.2 Raising Machine

Loop Direction:

It is rotated opposite to the movement of fabric in longitudinal direction.

Note:

Before raising width is more and GSM is less and after raising width is less and GSM is more.

Single Pass Raising/Double Pass Raising:

In single passing we passed the fabric only single time on the pin rollers drum. And in double

passing we passed the fabric 2 times from the same place of raiser and we need more raising in

that type of case. The production is less in case of double raising.

26

About 36 pin rollers are fixed on the drum for raising. A blower is also used to remove raised

fluff out to the exhaust.

It is better to pass the wet fabric through the raising machine many times (dry when processing

cotton fabrics) when there is a need of power full raising and treat the fabrics in advance with

softening-lubricating agents.

Fig: 4.3 Raising Mechanism

How does a Raising machine work?

The raising rollers are rotating on their axle; both series of pile and counter pile are rotating in

the same direction. The flange on which the raising rollers are fixed is also rotating on its axle.

The assembly of raising rollers fixed on two side flanges is called ―main drum‖.

27

The fabric encircles and is sliding on most of the raising drum; it enters in one point that is called

fabric entry, in this point a driven roller (called tension roller) is controlling the feeding of the

fabric on the main drum. The fabric leaves the main drum, pulled out by a roller called fabric

speed roller, this roller in fact is controlling the sliding speed of the fabric on the main drum.

4.4- Utilities Needed:

Electricity

Air

28

CHAPTER 05

Compactor

5.1- Introduction

Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed especially for compacting 100%

cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, LSF, rib and terry etc. as well as cotton blended fabric in

rope form, changing the dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to plaited form.

Compactor makes it to obtain top quality fabric, with minimized shrinking nature and a soft

fluffy hand.

Fig: 5.1 Compactor Machine

5.2- Function of Compactor:

Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of technical

works which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are;

GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width

is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased

Control shrinkage

Increase smoothness of fabric

Heat setting is done of fabric

Creases are removed

29

5.3- Types of Compactor Machine: Compactor machines are two types.

1. Tubular compactor

2. Open compactor

5.3.1- Tabular Compactor

Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the compactor

machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here, different types of off

line quality of the fabric are measured.

5.3.2- Open Width Compactor

Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting machine is used for

open the fabric from the tubular form.

Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact dimensional

stability and a soft feel. The machine generally consists of a feeding frame with centering device

and driven scroll rollers, an equalizing stenter frame with over feed roller and brush pinning

arrangement. The entry section of pin frame is provided with edge spreaders. In-Feed device, an

S.S. fabricated steaming unit for uniform moistening of the fabric. The Steaming Device has

stainless steel sliding shutters that allow steam to flow only as per the width of the fabric.

5.4- Production Plan & Capacity

Compactor # 1

Brand LAFER

Model TEXEN

Year of Construction 2009

Volts 440V

Capacity 4 Tons/Day

Fabric Speed (LSF/Terry) 20 – 25 m/min

30

Compactor # 2

Brand LAFER

Model TEXEN

Year of Construction 2009

Volts 440V

Capacity 3.6 Tons/Day

Fabric Speed (LSF/Terry) 20 – 25 m/min

Compactor # 3

Brand LAFER

Machine # KSA500

Year of Construction 2014

Volts 440V

Capacity 5 Tons/Day

Fabric Speed 50 m/min

31

5.5- Machine Construction

Compactor has same construction and operation as stenter has but in compactor steam is used to

moist/soft the fabric for the adjustment of GSM and shrinkage. These are some different things

in compactor;

Steam:

Steam is used in compactor having pressure 1.3 bar and the air used in compactor has 6 bar

pressure. Steam is passed through nozzles and moist the passing fabric.

Sheet adjustment:

In compactor the final GSM is achieved through these sheets. If we compact the sheet with no

overfeed then GSM is lesser. If we compact the sheet with overfeed then GSM of the fabric will

increases. Speed is controlled according to the fabric type. For LSF speed is about 25m/min and

for single jersey speed is more than LSF.

5.6- Quality Control

Hand feel

Shrinkage

GSM

5.7- Man power

Operator per machine = 3

5.8- Utilities

Water

Compressed Air

Steam

Electricity

32

CHAPTER 06

Tumble

5.1- Introduction:

A cloth dryer, tumble dryer, or drying machine is a powered household appliance that is used to

remove moisture from a load of clothing and other textiles, usually shortly after they are washed

in a washing machine.

Many dryers consist of a rotating drum called a "tumbler" through which heated air is circulated

to evaporate the moisture, while the tumbler is rotated to maintain air space between the articles.

Using these machines may cause clothes to shrink. A simpler non-rotating machine called a

"drying cabinet" may be used for delicate fabrics and other items not suitable for a tumble dryer.

Fig: 6.1 Tumble dryer

33

5.2- Tumble Operation:

In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not

perforated) cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying

The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from

the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed

This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of

chemicals

After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70°C to 10—20 % pick

up moisture content

The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150—160°C for 8 -

10 min

5.3- Machine Data:

Tumble Dryer

Brand Two Star

No. of Machines 4

Capacity 600 kg/day (Each Machine)

5.4- Utilities:

Water

Electricity

Steam

Compressed Air