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FIRST-AID for HUNTING DOGS

by

Scott White, DVM, MPH

Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies Pre-Trip

Considerations

Post-Hunt Exam Vomiting

for Ingested Poisons

Field First-Aid for Common Wounds

• Barbed Wire Lacerations

• Foot Injuries (Nails, Toes, Pads)

• Puncture Wounds

Hyperthermia

Hypothermia Eye

Injuries

Cold Tail (Swimmer Tail) Skunk

Formula

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WILDROSE ADVANCED HANDLERS RETREAT: FIELD FIRST-AID for HUNTING DOGS

March 14 & 15, 2020

Presented by Scott White, DVM, MPH

508-228-8448

scottwhitedvm@comcast.net

GOALS & GUIDELINES

Primary goal is to help you to be better prepared to deal with common hunting injuries

or problems in the field………..

…..by presenting practical information from the perspective of what a veterinarian

would like you – as the first line provider – to do before/while getting to the hospital.

Each situation is different and there are many variables. Complete coverage is beyond

the scope of these sessions → I am most interested in you embracing PRINCIPLES of first

aid in the field…..

…….Understanding those, you can apply appropriate first aid to most field wounds

based on your skill level, the nature of the wound, the dog’s demeanor, and the time-

frame for getting to the veterinary hospital.

Robust set of topics based on experiences of the Wildrose staff and myself.

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FIRST-AID SUPPLIES: Carry Kits & Vehicle Box

• I will demo the Carry Kits and Vehicle Box I developed for my own use. The tables on

the following pages list the supplies sorted as:

o Carry Kit: Basic Bandaging & Vomit

o Carry Kit: Bandaging Plus

o Vehicle Box

o All Supplies Combined

• Carry Kits:

o Carried on person in the field.

o Each handler/dog should have Carry Kits.

o Primarily for basic bandaging, foreign body removal, and vomiting.

• Vehicle Box:

o Left in vehicle.

o Contains supplies that are used to provide more comprehensive first-aid and to

replenish the Carry Kits.

o Box should provide adequate storage, efficient organization, and protection.

o A vehicle box may be adequate for a couple of dogs.

• Vacuum-pack some of the supplies to decrease volume. Also protects supplies.

Do not vacuum-pack tape, Coflex, Elasticon, etc.

• Make checklist of supplies/quantities; used for inventorying and recording expended

supplies. Modify/tailor supplies based on expected/particular needs.

• Store kit/box properly: sunlight and temperatures (heat/freezing); accessible location.

• Quality instruments and veterinary sourced supplies are recommended.

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Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies: Carry Kits

KIT ITEM AMOUNT

Basic Bandage/Vomit

IV bag, 1 liter, empty + Rubber band 1

Crile forceps, curved 1

Bandage scissors, small 1

Leatherman (scissors, saw blade) 1

Apomorphine, 6 mg capsule (compounded) 1

Saline vials, 3-5 ml (Addipak) 3

TB syringe, no needle 1

Plain sample tube, 3 ml 1

Food/meal for vomiting 1 cup dry

Q-tips, Vet quality 2

Animal Poison Control Center Mobil App #

Hydrogen Peroxide 3%, 8 oz bottle (in date) ●

20 ml syringe ●

Hand wipes/sanitizer (towelettes) 4

Roll gauze, 3” (Conform style) 1

Surgical gauze 3”x3”s 10

Coflex/Vetwrap 4” 1

Surgilube, packets 4

Dog bowl, fabric and water bottle 16oz 1

Bandage Plus

IV bag, 1 liter, empty + Rubber band 1

Surgical dressing thumb forceps 1

Rubber inner tube, 3”x4” patch 1

Child sock, thick 1

Newborn diaper 1

Roll gauze, 6”, brown 1

White tape 1” 1

Rubber gloves 1 pair

Basket muzzle, sized for dog ●

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Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies: Vehicle Box 1/2

CATEGORY ITEM AMOUNT

Instruments

Crile forceps, straight 1

Bandage scissors, large 1

Nail trimmer, 6”, heavy duty 1

Vomiting Supplies

Apomorphine, 6 mg capsule (compounded) 1

Saline vials, 3-5 ml (Addipak) 3

TB syringe, no needle 1

Plain sample tube, 3 ml 1

Food/meal for vomiting 1 cup dry

Q-tips, Vet quality 2

Animal Poison Control Center Mobil App #

Hydrogen Peroxide 3%, 8 oz bottle (in date) ●

20 ml syringe ●

Wound Flushing

60 ml syringe, luer lock tip 2

Butterfly catheter tube (or 18 ga catheter) 2

500 ml Saline (hard container or soft bag) 1

Bandaging Supplies

Roll gauze, 3” (Conform style) 2

Roll gauze, 6”, brown 2

Coflex/Vetwrap 4” 2

Coflex/Vetwrap 2” 1

Elasticon 2” 2

Telfa pads 3”x4” 4

Surgical gauze 3”x3”s 10

Child sock, thick 1

Newborn diaper 1

Medium diaper 2

Cage pad 1

Turtleneck T-shirt, medium, trimmed 1

Zip ties, ~ 14” 3

Surgilube, packages (or a tube) 6

Splint for feet, plastic, padded 2

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Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies: Vehicle Box 2/2

CATEGORY ITEM AMOUNT

Miscellaneous Supplies

Rubber gloves, pairs 2 pairs

Hand wipes/sanitizer Container

Hair brush, medium 1

Tooth brush 1

Metal large tooth comb 1

Terry cloth hand towel 1

Paper towel, pieces in baggies 10

Spiral note pad and pencil 1

Blanket, thermal/warm 1

Beach towel 1

Thermometer, digital and sleeves 1

Isopropyl alcohol, bottle 1

Basket muzzle, sized for dog ●

Eye & Ear Products

Eye rinse, bottle, 4 oz 1

Q-tips, Vet quality 6

NeoPolyBac Ophthalmic ointment, tube 1

Epi-Otic Advanced Ear Cleaner, 8 oz 1

Ear Medication (Quadritop, Otomax, etc.) 1

Cotton Pads & regular Q-tips in baggie √

Oral Medications

Clavamox drops, 15 ml bottle (antibiotic) 1

Syringe, 10 ml 1

Meloxicam liquid, small (NSAID) + syringe 1

Wound Closure

????

Needle holder, large 1

Suture, 0 nylon, large 3/8 reverse cut needle 2 packs

Staple gun, wide 1

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Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies for Hunting 1/2

CATEGORY ITEM CARRY VEHICLE

Instruments Surgical dressing thumb forceps 1

Crile forceps, curved 1

Crile forceps, straight 1

Bandage scissors, large 1

Bandage scissors, small 1

Nail trimmer, 6”, heavy duty 1

Leatherman (scissors, saw blade) 1

Vomiting Supplies Apomorphine, 6 mg capsule (compounded) 1 1

Saline vials, 3-5 ml (Addipak) 3 3

TB syringe, no needle 1 1

Plain sample tube, 3 ml 1 1

Food/meal for vomiting 1 cup dry 1 cup dry

Q-tips, Vet quality 2 2

Animal Poison Control Center Mobil App # #

Hydrogen Peroxide 3%, 8 oz bottle (in date) ● ●

20 ml syringe ● ●

Wound Flushing 60 ml syringe, luer lock tip 2

Butterfly catheter tube (or 18 ga catheter) 2

500 ml Saline (hard container or soft bag) 1

Bandaging Supplies Roll gauze, 3” (Conform style) 1 2

Roll gauze, 6”, brown 1 2

White tape 1” 1

Coflex/Vetwrap 4” 1 2

Coflex/Vetwrap 2” 1

Elasticon 2” 2

Telfa pads 3”x4” 4

Surgical gauze 3”x3”s 10 10

Child sock, thick 1 1

Newborn diaper 1 1

Medium diaper 2

Cage pad 1

Turtleneck T-shirt, medium, trimmed 1

Zip ties, ~ 14” 3

Rubber bands, large 2

Surgilube, packages (or a tube) 4 6

Splint for feet, plastic, padded 1

IV bag, 1 liter, empty 2

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Doc & Dune’s First-Aid Supplies for Hunting 2/2

CATEGORY ITEM CARRY VEHICLE

Miscellaneous Supplies Rubber gloves, 3 pairs 1 pair 2 pairs

Hand wipes/sanitizer (towelettes) 4 Container

Rubber inner tube, 3”x4” patch 1

Hair brush, medium 1

Tooth brush 1

Metal large tooth comb 1

Terry cloth hand towel 1

Paper towel, pieces in baggies 10

Spiral note pad and pencil 1

Dog bowl, fabric and water bottle 16oz 1

Blanket, thermal/warm 1

Beach towel 1

Thermometer, digital and sleeves 1

Isopropyl alcohol, bottle 1

Basket muzzle, sized for dog ● ●

Eye & Ear Products Eye rinse, bottle, 4 oz 1

Q-tips, Vet quality 6

NeoPolyBac Ophthalmic ointment, tube 1

Epi-Otic Advanced Ear Cleaner, 8 oz 1

Ear Medication (Quadritop, Otomax, etc.) 1

Cotton Pads & regular Q-tips in baggie √

Oral Medications Clavamox drops, 15 ml bottle (antibiotic) 1

Syringe, 10 ml 1

Meloxicam liquid, small (NSAID) + syringe 1

Wound Closure Needle holder, large 1

???? Suture, 0 nylon, large 3/8 reverse cut needle 2 packs

Staple gun, wide 1

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PRE-TRIP CONSIDERATIONS

• Inspect & replenish first-aid supplies:

o Use the checklist.

o Vet sourced supplies recommended.

o Make sure all medications are in date.

o Calculate and record oral dosages for each dog.

• Check-in/up with Regular Vet:

o Current medical conditions are adequately controlled and it is safe to travel/hunt.

o Vaccinations: all current, especially Rabies, Lyme, Lepto, Influenza??, Snake??

o Heartworm & flea/tick preventative; which?? oral vs topical?? Preventic collar??

o Adequate supply of current medications.

o Pre & Post-hunt NSAIDs??

o Updated copy of pertinent medical records & lab tests, including last

Lyme/Anaplasma/Ehrlichia results (phone & hard copy).

o Rabies certificate & microchip number.

• Establish contact with Vet(s) at hunting destination(s):

o Telephone, address, and map; enter in GPS.

o Travel route/directions.

o Clinic hours → regular and after-hours emergency coverage.

o OK to call/text from the field?? Photos of injuries??

o Special location-based problems??

• Review and practice first-aid procedures on dog at home, especially bandaging and

vomiting; get dog tolerant of exam, bandaging, nail trims, oral syringe, etc.

• Local vet tech may be a great way to get one-on-one instruction/practice; also many

online videos.

• Develop emergency action plan concepts and designate emergency tasks for each fellow

hunter → medic, assistant, and vehicle driver.

• Trim nails and clean ears, etc. before departing.

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POST-HUNT EXAMINATION

• Perform out of the elements and in the best lighting available; use a headlamp/flashlight

if dark and for examining the eyes and ears.

• If finished hunting for the day, offer ~ 2 cups of water; check skin-tent hydration status.

• Rectal temperature if signs of hyper/hypothermia suspected or present. Normal rectal

temp ~~ 101.5°. Post-hunt temp between 100° to 103° →generally OK.

• Thorough Exam to Find and Treat:

o Hidden wounds.

o Foreign bodies: thorns, grass awns (foxtails), cockleburs, dirt/sand, ice balls, etc.

o Parasites: mainly ticks.

• Detailing the Dog:

o Remove and check undersides of vest/collar.

o Look in the eyes/under lids, mouth (tongue, teeth, and lips), and nostrils.

o Look in the ear canals (and the little ear flap pocket).

o Rub hands over head, ears, neck, body, legs, and tail.

o Feet: each toenail and pad; between toes and between pads.

o Check armpits, groin & under tail.

o Brush to remove dirt/sand from body/hair coat; toothbrush between toes/pads.

o If swimming during hunt, clean ears with solution.

o If hunted in salt water, rinse entire body thoroughly with fresh water.

• Post-Hunt Feeding Guidelines: to prevent Bloat and GDV (Gastric Dilatation & Volvulus)

o Note: Do not feed if taking to Vet hospital.

o Wait at least 1 hour after last active event.

o Regular amount of dry food; divide into 2-courses, 15 minutes apart.

o On ground-level and no water with meal.

o Water OK 1 hour after meal.

• Administer post-hunt NSAID with meal as directed by regular vet.

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VOMITING for INGESTED POISONS in the FIELD

There are countless poisonous products that dogs will consume that should be vomited.

Common field poisons include mushrooms, rodent bait, antifreeze, coated seeds, blue-green

algae (cyanobacteria) in ponds, and clay pigeon fragments. Farms and barns are notorious

sources of poisonous products. Other common poisons include medications (yours and theirs),

chocolate, grapes, and xylitol (in some chewing gums).

Equally important is to know what should NOT be vomited → many cleaning, petroleum, and

caustic (acid/alkaline) products.

When appropriate, vomiting is the first step for limiting poisoning and should occur as soon as

possible after ingestion. The two choices are apomorphine or hydrogen peroxide. To ensure

maximum effectiveness, only use products that have not expired.

FACTORS TO CONSIDER:

• After 2 hours, vomiting is less effective because stomach contents have had time to

pass into the intestines, but stomach emptying time can vary.

• Vomiting rarely removes all of a poison.

• Many poisons do not cause symptoms for hours/days, but early emergency treatment is

required to prevent illness. Good examples are rodent bait and antifreeze.

Animal Poison Control Center (APCC): 888-426-4435

• If vomiting is clearly needed, perform before contacting the APCC.

• Valuable for post-vomiting guidance; should be contacted in all potential poisonings.

• The APCC mobile app is a great resource for information but does not replace calling the

Center. The app has rodent bait and chocolate calculators, general info on numerous

poisonous items, and speed dial to the Center.

Laws of Vomiting & Poisons

Vomiting Supplies Should Be In Every Carry Kit.

For me, as long as the dog is not displaying symptoms (lethargy, tremors, seizures,

already vomited, etc.) vomiting should be induced even after 2 hours.

Unless Animal Poison Control Center guidance is clearly otherwise, ALL dogs

ingesting poisonous products should be taken to a veterinary hospital for

evaluation, observation, diagnostics, and/or treatment.

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VOMITING PROCEDURES

Preparation Before Vomiting:

1. Remove all other dogs from the area.

2. Leash the poisoned dog so it can be pulled away from the vomit → they will re-eat the

vomit and poison.

3. Feed the dog a small meal → provides volume needed for successful vomiting. For

example, 2 tuna-fish-sized cans of dog/cat food or 1 cup dry kibble with ½ cup of

added water. Use cans with pull-top lids.

4. Lay out something (newspaper, trash bags, towel, etc.) to collect the vomit for

inspection by the veterinarian.

5. Designate someone to call the veterinarian to apprise of the poisoning, likely arrival

time, and you will be calling the APCC & will provide the case number later.

6. Send a driver to retrieve the vehicle and meet you at a close pick-up location.

Induce Vomiting with Apomorphine or Hydrogen Peroxide.

Contact the APCC:

• If not done earlier, call the APCC (888-426-4435) while driving to the vet clinic.

• Info to have available:

o Weight of dog.

o Poison sample, container, and/or ingredient label (take a picture).

o Time of ingestion and the likely amount consumed.

o Time of vomiting.

o Identifiable pieces of poison vomited --- number, size, color, etc.

• A $75 fee will be required to be paid by credit card.

• Record your case number and follow instructions.

• Call the veterinarian with the case number; they will be able to call the APCC for specific

guidance (no extra fee).

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Vomiting with APOMORPHINE: The most effective and easiest way. Applied into the eyes.

Before 2019, apomorphine was a DEA controlled substance which made it “non-available” for

dispensing to owners. With de-regulation, it is a prescription product that should be available

from your regular vet. It is made by compounding pharmacies; use the 6% powder in gelcaps.

1. Open the gelcap and pour the apomorphine powder into the 3 ml vial.

2. Put about 6 drops of saline (or water) into the vial. Agitate to mix the powder.

3. Pull the apomorphine liquid into the TB syringe (no needle). Drop ½ into one lower

eyelid sac and the rest into the other eyelid sac.

4. Vomiting should begin with 5 minutes. Dogs usually vomit a large amount followed by a

small amount, but sometimes a small then large amount. Regardless, 2 vomits are

sufficient.

5. DO NOT LET THE DOG EAT THE VOMIT.

6. After the second vomit, use the saline vials and Q-tips to rinse out the apomorphine.

This stops retching and prevents depression.

7. Because the apomorphine process is fairly quick, I suggest remaining at site location

until vomiting occurs.

Vomiting with HYDORGEN PEROXIDE 3%: Less effective than apomorphine. Fairly large volume

that is given by mouth. More difficult to administer. Often requires second dosing and may

not always work. Supplies take up more space and weight. Only use 3% hydrogen peroxide.

1. If the dog weighs 45 pounds or more, give 45mls (3 TBS) by mouth. A 20 ml syringe is

recommended, but different size syringe, turkey baster, etc. can be used. For dogs less

than 45 pounds, give 1 ml per pound.

2. Peroxide tastes awful. The dog will resist; have help restraining the dog if available.

3. With the dog sitting, insert syringe into the back corner of the mouth/cheeks, raise the

head slightly, and hold the mouth “closed”. Squirt in the HP so the dog can swallow

without it spilling out of the mouth. To get the feel, practice this at home with the

syringe and water.

4. After the full amount is given, “shake” the dog’s stomach/abdomen to stimulate the

foaming action.

5. If vomiting has not occurred in 15 minutes, a second dose (same amount) can be given.

Shake again.

6. Because of the likely time lag between administration and vomiting, I suggest that you

begin making your way back to the vehicle/vet clinic after giving the first dose.

Remember to carry something to collect the vomit.

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FIELD FIRST-AID for COMMON HUNTING WOUNDS

Principles with Scenario-Based Demonstrations

GOAL: Hunting dogs get a wide variety of wounds and every situation is different. Complete

coverage is beyond the scope of this part of the session → the take home message is to

embrace the principles of first aid for wounds. Understanding those, you can apply appropriate

first aid to most field wounds based on your skill level, the nature of the wound, the dog’s

demeanor, and the time-frame for getting to the veterinary hospital.

First, I will discuss factors to consider, general principles, and my Laws of Wounds. Then, I

will use three common scenarios to demonstrate procedures and specific principles.

• Barbed Wire Lacerations: ◈ demo wound cleaning, flushing, and body bandaging ideas

• Foot Injuries: ◈ demo foot bandaging

• Puncture Wounds

Factors to Consider:

• Hunting wounds that penetrate the skin --- open wounds --- are formed by athletic

and forceful trauma.

• Because of the dog’s loose skin, air can be sucked in through even small holes and

create large, deep air pockets under the skin.

• These pockets are not always visible from the outside and the strong drive of our

hunting dogs can mask the true extent of what looks like a minor wound.

• These pockets can enlarge after the initial injury if the dog remains active.

• The pockets can collect and harbor foreign material (dirt, water, litter) and bacteria that

can lead to seromas and infections which can be more problematic than the skin wound.

FIRST LAW of WOUNDS → Regardless of the size of wound, if the skin is

penetrated, the hunting is finished. Promptly apply first aid and take the dog to a

veterinarian for thorough wound exploration and treatment.

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General Principles for any Wound

• Your goal is to efficiently stabilize, clean, and protect the wound prior to driving to the

veterinarian for comprehensive treatment. Assess the wound & situation and establish

the tactical plan → medic, assistant, driver, etc.

o Having an assistant to restrain the dog is very helpful.

o Use the time efficiently. While you are applying the first aid from the Carry Kit, have

a fellow hunter retrieve the vehicle and drive to a close pick-up location.

• For most wounds, minimize after-injury motion/walking as much as possible →

especially for wounds on trunk, armpit, & groin. Motion can make the wound larger,

expand air pockets, and carry debris further into the wound.

• With an open skin wound, keep the dog out of water/mud as much as possible, before

and after first aid.

• If advice is needed for a wound, take pictures and text to the veterinarian.

• When physically handling a wound in the field, the objective is to be CLEAN vs STERILE.

o Do not want the wound further contaminated.

o Clean your hands with soap, sanitizer liquid, wipes, etc.

o Wear clean rubber gloves (exam, food safety, painter) when cleaning/flushing

wounds.

o Do not reuse opened sterile supplies (syringes/saline) for flushing future wounds.

• Bleeding: In most instances, hunting wounds do not bleed excessively; when it occurs,

it is usually slow and oozing. This type of bleeding is not life threatening and normally

stops by itself or with simple pressure for a few minutes. Do not disturb clots. If the

bleeding seems slow to stop, apply more comprehensive pressure with gauze/towel or a

light pressure bandage; do not remove these bandages unless essential.

• Water: After bleeding is controlled, offer up to 2 cups of water while setting up first aid

supplies. Presume anesthesia may be required, so NO FOOD.

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• If possible, find a location that is out of the wind and elements → so supplies do not get

blown away or wet and so the dog is not too hot/cold and stays dry. Placing the dog on

an elevated platform makes treatment easier.

• Open and organize all of the supplies for a procedure before you begin; lay supplies out

on a lid, towel, jacket, etc.

• If you need to use a muzzle to prevent biting, only use a BASKET MUZZLE so the dog can

pant. Decide whether to put in the Carry Kit.

• Do not let the dog lick or chew the wound or the bandage.

• Cleaning & Flushing: These steps are important for almost all wounds; they create a

“healthy” wound with less chance of bacterial infection. Goal is to remove as much

foreign material as reasonably possible. Use thumb forceps & gauze to pick out large

pieces and sterile saline to flush small pieces and bacteria. Cleaning can occur in the

field and/or at the vehicle; flushing is best performed at the vehicle.

SECOND LAW of WOUNDS → Only use sterile saline for flushing!!!

Only sterile saline!!!

THIRD LAW of WOUNDS → NEVER use these products on an open wound:

• Home-made Saline

• Iodine/Betadine

• Hydrogen Peroxide

• Alcohol

• Any type of Powder

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• Bandaging: To become skilled and efficient, bandaging requires hands-on practice with

an experienced instructor → your local veterinary clinic and technicians are excellent

resources.

o Bandages provide the following benefits:

✓ Stop or decrease bleeding.

✓ Protect from further injury or contamination.

✓ Keep an open wound from drying out.

✓ Make the wound less painful.

o Bandaging supplies are divided between the Carry Kits and the Vehicle Box. Basic

supplies are all that is needed in the Carry Kits.

o First-aid bandages will come off at vet clinic, and they do not have to be elaborate to

be effective.

Additional Comments & Ideas:

• Use a clean body vest as the outer layer of a “bandage”.

• Roll gauze/Coflex/Tape can be passed under the collar to help secure a body bandage.

• Use empty 1 liter IV bags to keep foot bandages dry.

• Small diapers also work for elbow and head/ear wounds.

• Bandages for leg wounds above the carpus/tarsus (wrist/ankle) are more complicated to

apply correctly. These bandages must start at the foot and extend to above the wound.

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BARBED WIRE LACERATIONS:

BWLs can occur anywhere on the dog, but are common on the chest, back and sides. They can

be straight clean cuts or L-V shaped tears of any size. There can be pockets where the skin is

loose. Unless a major blood vessel is severed, these wounds do not bleed a lot.

Control any bleeding and offer the dog 2 cups of water.

Cleaning/flushing debris, bandaging, and field medications are used to manage these wounds.

Based on the wound location/size and distance/time to the vehicle, decide what procedures to

apply at time of injury. E.g. Small clean back wound & short distance → perhaps can wait until

getting to the vehicle.

Use Thumb Forceps and/or Gauze to remove “large” debris (pebbles, grass, leaves, twigs).

❖ Use forceps to remove most of the material.

❖ Gauze can be used to grasp slippery objects, fluids, or to wipe a broad area.

❖ Remove what you can readily see in the wound; leave buried pieces in place.

Apply a field bandage using the supplies from the Carry Kits.

At the vehicle, remove the field bandage (if applied) and use the forceps/gauze to remove

remaining debris that you can see. Do not try to pick out pepper-sized pieces.

Then, use Saline Flushing to remove smaller debris (dirt/sand) and bacteria.

❖ Only use sterile saline to flush wounds!!!

❖ 60 ml leur lock syringe with a cut off butterfly catheter tube → gives right

amount of volume and pressure. (18 ga catheter can serve as a backup.)

❖ To reduce contaminating the saline, poor it into a clean cup, bowl, empty IV

package, etc. rather than drawing straight out of the container.

❖ Flush parts of the wound you can see. Deep flushing can push debris deeper.

❖ How much flush depends → until the wound is clean as possible or out of saline.

Dry the fur/skin with a terry cloth towel (or paper towels) as much as possible.

Apply a bandage: sterile lube → Telfa pads/diaper/gauze→ roll gauze/towel/Coflex → Turtle

Neck, etc. Note: Lube keeps the wound moist, provides a bacterial barrier, and also reduces

air being sucked into a pocket.

Field Medications: Oral antibiotic and oral anti-inflammatory (NSAID).

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FOOT INJURIES:

• Broken Nails

• Cuts to Pads or Between Toes

• Pad Avulsions (ripped pads)

• Punctures/Thorns

o Bleeding occurs with most of these wounds, but is generally not life-threatening and

should be controllable with simple pressure or bandaging. Control the bleeding before

cleaning/flushing.

o Bandage foot injuries as soon as possible after the injury and before walking any but a

short distance.

Broken Nails: Commonly occur because of overly long nails. There are 2 basic types: nail

pulled off of the nail bed or a break (fracture) of both the nail and bony nail bed. Both are

painful. These injuries can bleed quite a bit, especially if the dog is allowed to walk/run on an

un-bandaged foot. Bleeding can be controlled with simple pressure. Clean and flush before

bandaging if possible. The avulsed/fractured nail will likely be removed at the veterinary clinic;

leave in place unless the piece looks like it is about to “fall off”.

DO NOT use “Quik-Stop”, corn starch, or styptic pencil to stop the bleeding.

Cuts: Cut pads bleed a lot, but bleeding from cuts between the toes varies. If the bleeding can

be controlled without bandaging, clean out as much debris as possible. Then, flush the wound

and apply a good bandage. If a bandage is used to stop the bleeding, leave it on and let the

veterinarian remove the bandage. The veterinarian will determine if the cut should be sutured.

Pad Avulsions (ripped pads): Usually minimal bleeding but are very painful as raw tissue is

usually exposed. Flush out debris/dirt but leave the pad attached and in normal position when

bandaging; let the veterinarian remove the pad. Small avulsions on one to two pads usually do

not require hospital care. But, the dog should not be hunted and should wear a bandage/sock

to keep the pad clean/protected until healed.

Punctures/Thorns: These can be in-and-out or the thorn may still be in the foot. Dogs tend to

limp more if the thorn is in the foot. Thorns in the foot may be visible or they can be buried.

Use thumb forceps to pull out a visible thorn, but do not attempt to dig out if buried. If limping

severely or the thorn is buried, the dog should be taken to the veterinarian. Otherwise, the need

for veterinary care is case-dependent, so use your judgment and/or call the vet.

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Foot Bandages Demonstrated:

❖ Traditional: lube → gauze 3x3s → roll gauze → tape → Coflex

❖ Diaper: lube → small diaper → tape → Coflex

❖ Sock: lube → sock → tape → Coflex

Procedures:

• Open and organize the bandaging material before you begin:

❖ Open the lube & telfa or gauze packages.

❖ Start the roll gauze and tape.

❖ Unroll a good amount of Coflex and then roll back up. Make a thick foot pad with

4-5 overlapping layers.

• Bandages need to be snug enough to prevent moving or falling off, but not overly tight.

❖ Roll gauze needs to be fairly snug, but do not crank it down.

❖ Wrapping tape, Coflex, or Elasticon while pulling it from the roll applies too much

tension and is the main cause of overly tight bandages. Instead, use the

unroll/reroll method or pull off a length of material, wrap, then pull off some more.

❖ Tearing tape or Coflex, rather than cutting, applies too much tension.

• Practice bandaging a friends hand like it is a paw; let them tell you how tight it is. Get

use to handling the material.

Field Medications:

• Oral antibiotic for lacerations & punctures.

• Oral anti-inflammatory (NSAID) for all.

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PUNCTURE WOUNDS: These can be in-and-out punctures or the object may still be in dog.

• Common causes are:

o sunflower stalks

o tree branches

o sticks

o hardware (nails/fences)

• Punctures do not bleed that much unless a blood vessel has been severed.

• All punctures should be considered serious wounds that should be treated by a

veterinarian as soon as possible.

• The degree of seriousness depends on the object, where it penetrated, how deep it

penetrated, and how much internal damage was created.

• Along with damage caused by the object, air pockets can form (like lacerations) and

bacterial infection is always a concern.

Procedures:

• Control bleeding with direct pressure or a bandage. If a bandage is used, leave in place

and let the veterinarian remove it.

• Offer 2 cups of water.

• Removing Puncturing Objects → IT DEPENDS.

o Urgent removal of a puncturing object is rarely needed. Call and text a picture to the

veterinarian for guidance. Probably can wait for answer in most situations.

o If short/small, just under the skin, or smooth → probably OK to remove in the field.

o If long, rough, jagged, or possibly into the chest or abdomen → best to leave in

place.

o OK to cut off a long protruding segment outside the skin as long as the deeper

segment remains in place.

• Flush only parts of the wound you can see and not into the pocket.

• Use bandages to cover the opening and to secure protruding segment.

Field Medications: Oral antibiotic and oral anti-inflammatory (NSAID).

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HYPERTHERMIA

• Heat Exhaustion → any temp above 103°.

• Heat Stroke → any temp above 106°.

• Dog normal rectal temp is about 101.5°. Take your dog’s resting temperature at home

to know their baseline. Use a digital thermometer.

• Temp can continue to climb after first detected → consider a temp rising above 103.5°

an emergency.

Predisposing Risk Factors:

• Not acclimatized to hot and humid environment.

• Dehydration. (Resting dogs normally drink about 1 cup for every 10 pounds of weight.)

• Overweight.

• Laryngeal Paralysis (even mild).

PREVENTABLE and can be avoided with proper precautions.

• Appropriate rest breaks.

• In the field, offer ~ 1 cup water/hour from a bowl.

• Avoid Hi-Noon temps and humidity if not acclimatized.

Signs to watch for:

• If you are hot and thirsty, the dog is also.

• Panting more than normal.

• Salivating. Ropey saliva.

• Bright red gums and tongue.

Treatment:

• Out of sun, into cool shaded location.

• Spray with or immerse in “room temperature” water → work down to the skin.

• Fans/wind to speed convection cooling.

• Rubbing Alcohol on foot pads, arm pits and groin for evaporative cooling.

• DO NOT USE: Ice, Ice Chips, Ice Packs. Cold on the Head. All are → counterproductive.

• Check temp every 10-15-20 minutes based on symptoms and rate of temperature

change.

• STOP all cooling measures when rectal temp lowered to 103° to avoid over-cooling.

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HYPOTHERMIA

• Any temp below 99°.

• Dog normal rectal temp is about 101.5°. Take your dog’s resting temperature at home

to know their baseline. Use a digital thermometer.

• Temp can continue to fall after first detected → consider below 95° an emergency.

Predisposing Risk Factors:

• Not acclimatized to cold environment with prolonged exposure & inactivity.

• Soaked, wet hair coat → loss of insulation.

• Small, thin, or underweight.

• Short hair coat.

• Dehydration.

PREVENTABLE and can be avoided with proper precautions.

• Keep dog dry in bitter conditions.

• Elevated platform out of water.

• Towel dry after water retrieve.

• Neoprene hunting vest.

Signs to watch for:

• Lethargic; sluggish; weakness.

• Shivering.

• Stiff muscles.

Treatment:

• Out of cold into dry, warm environment.

• As long as body temp above 95°, “self-warm” using dry blanket on the body; warm the

legs last.

• Offer sips of warmish water.

• Check temp every 10-15-20 minutes based on symptoms & rate of temperature change.

Core temperature can continue to fall during rewarming.

• Do not feed until rectal temperature returns to baseline for at least one hour.

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EYE INJURIES

• Debris under the eyelid.

• Superficial scratch/scrape of the cornea or eyelid.

• Puncture or laceration of the cornea, sclera, and under eyelid.

Causes:

• Bushes/grasses.

• Dirt/sand, especially if left under the eyelids.

• Wounded birds.

• Thorns.

Signs to watch for:

• Squinting or closed eyelid.

• Pawing at eye; rubbing face on the ground.

• Pain; turning head away if approached.

• Raised third eyelid.

Examination:

• Out of the wind & elements and an assistant to restrain the dog.

• Hold the dog’s head with one hand and open the eyelid with the other. Pull the lower lid

down and/or upper lid up with the thumb while fingers are stabilized on the head.

• Using a penlight or head lamp, shine the light into the eye and at an angle across the

cornea; look for scratches or defects; look for blood under the eyelid, on the sclera, or

inside the eye.

• Look under the eyelid and into the deep pockets → this is where most debris will collect.

• Superficial corneal scratches can be hard to see without a head-loop; deeper lacerations

or punctures are usually more obvious.

• Punctures into the eye do not bleed much externally; however, you may see blood on

the sclera or inside the eye.

• Eyelid wounds tend to bleed; blood or a clot may be seen under the eyelid.

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Treatment:

• Debris and Superficial Scratches/Scrapes of Cornea and Eyelid:

❖ Rinse/flush out debris with the saline bottle. Remove stubborn debris with vet

quality Q-tips and gentle sweeping or with the thumb forceps.

❖ Debris can sometimes get behind the third eyelid, but do attempt to remove in the

field; this requires topical anesthesia and should be done by a veterinarian.

❖ Superficial corneal or eyelid injuries with mild symptoms are not usually

emergencies and can resolve in a day or two with prompt treatment.

❖ Apply about ½” of the Neo-Poly-Bac ophthalmic ointment into the eye or on the

wound. Repeat this every 6 hours for about 24 hours.

❖ Do not let the dog paw its face or rub on the ground.

❖ If the dog is still showing symptoms after 24 hours, a veterinary exam is warranted.

• Punctures & Lacerations: These are serious injuries that should be seen as an emergency

by a veterinarian.

❖ Although there are benefits, cleaning or flushing can disturb clots or sealed wounds.

Performing these in the field with these injuries is a judgment call.

❖ Objects that have penetrated into the eyeball should not be removed or disturbed in

the field. Punctures can seal themselves and pulling out the object can let fluid

inside the eye leak out → causing the eye to collapse.

❖ If the object has penetrated beside the eyeball, general puncture rules apply. If the

object is still present, probably best to get veterinary guidance before removing.

❖ Eyelid lacerations generally require suturing to heal correctly. These injuries should

be promptly examined by a veterinarian to make the determination.

❖ Apply the Neo-Poly-Bac ophthalmic ointment into the eye or on the wound and take

the dog to the veterinarian.

❖ Do not let the dog paw its face or rub on the ground.

Field Medications:

• Neo-Poly-Bac ophthalmic ointment → see above.

• Oral antibiotic for punctures & lacerations.

• Oral anti-inflammatory (NSAID) for all.

25

COLD TAIL = SWIMMERS TAIL = LIMBER TAIL = Other Names, too.

• Acute sprain of the muscles at the base of the tail from over-exertion by using the tail

for steering, balance, and wagging.

• Commonly occurs after lots of water retrieves (water creates a lot of resistance), but can

occur after other forms of activity.

• More common in dogs not accustomed to the activity (early in the season).

• Possibly more common in colder weather, but can occur in any temperature.

• Symptoms often do not develop until later in the evening or the day after the activity.

Signs:

• Drooped tail that the dog will not raise.

• Painful and sometimes swollen tail base.

• Trouble rising from the floor or getting into position to defecate.

Treatment:

• Cold/ice compress for 15 minutes, 3 times over 24 hours.

• Prescription NSAID anti-inflammatory drugs.

• Rest for 2-3 days.

SKUNK FORMULA

• Scoop off visible globs of spray; use a stick, spoon, etc.

• If sprayed in the face, rinse out the eyes with saline or water.

• Bathe with the following mixture. Only use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Mix ingredients and

use immediately; stored mixture can explode. The fur may bleach some.

o Hydrogen peroxide 3%: 1 quart

o Baking soda: ¼ cup

o Dawn detergent: 1 TBS