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delicious.MAY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA'S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE
CURTIS STONE New LA restaurant
ALEX HERBERT Hot autumn flavours
BEN SHEWRYWhere chefs really eat
Valli's chai cake withginger cream-cheese icing
& pomegranate syrup
DINNERPARTY S.O.S.Valli’s easy menusto the rescue
BEST OF
THE BLOGSGluten-freebaking ideas
30 classic cakes, on-trend tarts & hearty pies
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The art of baking is definitelymaking a comeback, which is nosurprise when you consider allthe excellent reasons to spend anafternoon measuring, mixing andstirring. Whether you’re engagingin a bit of kitchen therapy, want toimpress at a dinner party, or plan to treat your mum tosomething special for Mother’s Day, you’ll find the recipesyou need in our first baking issue. There’s Valli’s gorgeouscover cake, inspiration from AnnekaManning’s BakeCluband heirloom dishes from Sydney’s Jewish community.Plus, don’t miss chef Alex Herbert’s take on her favourite
autumn ingredients, or our glimpse inside Curtis Stone’snew LA restaurant, Maude, named after his grandmother…now there’s a fittingMother’s Day tribute.
Danielle Oppermann, Editor
the hit list
The decadent chocolatehazelnut torte from Sydney’sFlour and Stone (p 33). Andif you head to the bakery,
don’t miss the luscious pannacotta-soaked lamington.
As the cool weatherarrives, assistant food editorWarren Mendes’ one-potmeatballs with risoni (p 79)
are on my list for easyweeknight comfort food.
Join us for a specialdelicious. does cooking class(p 17) with baking queenAnneka Manning as she
guides you through some ofthe recipes from this month’sCooking School feature (p 68).
delicious. 7
editor’s letter.
8 delicious.
Cover stories10 The baking issue
This month we have
gorgeous cakes, tarts
and pies in abundance,
including our spectacular
cover chai cake.
19 Alex Herbert’s hot
autumn flavours
Sydney chef Alex Herbert
shares her top seasonal
ingredients in our new
feature, Hand Picked.
53 Dinner party S.O.S.
Valli Little’s failsafe
entertaining menus.
60 Curtis Stone’s
new LA restaurant
Aussie chef abroad Curtis
Stone shares a taste of his
citrus-themed menu from
new LA restaurant Maude.
92 Best of the blogs:
gluten-free baking
Our favourite gluten-free
blogs and baking recipes.
140 Ben Shewry: where
chefs really eat
This month’s Locavore,
Attica’s Ben Shewry, shares
his top spots on Victoria’s
Bellarine Peninsula.
106
60
The Test Kitchen uses meat
supplied by Hudson Meats;
hudsonmeats.com.au
84
68
76
Eat33 Hotspots
The best bakery and deli
dishes from Sydney’s Flour
and Stone, Smith Street
Alimentari in Melbourne and
Butterfingers in Adelaide.
68 Cooking school
Sydney author and food
editor Anneka Manning
invites us to her new
cooking school, BakeClub.
76 Daily special
Seven global-inspired
weeknight dinners ready
in less than 30 minutes.
84 Exclusive extract
Sydney’s Monday Morning
Cooking Club share
treasured recipes by
Jewish home cooks from
all corners of the globe.
119 Easy does it
Quick autumn slices, just
like Grandma used to bake.
122 Balancing act
Gluten-free eating under
the spotlight in our new
health column.
Escape126 Global flavours
Authentic Cambodian food,
from street food to David
Thompson’s new restaurant.
136 Postcard
Plan a foodie getaway to SA’s
Kangaroo Island and sample
the island’s unique produce.
138 24 hours in Santa Barbara
Coffee, wineries and fresh
oysters in California.
Regulars7 Editor’s letter
12 Menus
15 Inbox
17 Out & about
Join us this month in Sydney
for two special cooking
classes with Anneka Manning
from BakeClub (see also
Cooking School, p 68).
53
99 Jamie Oliver exclusive section
100 Jamie’s May mash-up
With the cooler weather approaching, Jamie
looks to late-season vegetables to create
warming comfort-food dishes.
106 A slice of heaven
Jamie turns up the heat with his terrific tarts,
including classic treacle and salted banoffee.
27 Produce Awards 2014
Photos from our final
showcase dinner at
Sydney’s Rushcutters.
29 Insider
The latest food trends,
books and restaurant news.
38 What to drink when
Sticky wines are a great
dessert accompaniment
explains Andrea Frost.
40 5 reasons to…
Matt Preston shares his
love of Indian cuisine.
48 Subscribe to delicious.
Upgrade to our exclusive
food hamper package.
148 Recipe index
153 Next month in delicious.
154 Secret address book
Michelin-starred Australian
chef Skye Gyngell’s top
foodie spots in London
and further afar.
126
10 delicious.
cover recipe.
chai cake with gingercream-cheese icing andpomegranate syrupServes 15
This recipe makes a large layer cake to
entertain a crowd, but can also be halved
to make a smaller cake to serve 6-8.
2 chai tea bags
300g unsalted butter, softened
2 cups (440g) caster sugar
6 eggs
2 cups (300g) self-raising flour
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground clove
Ginger cream-cheese icing
250g cream cheese, softened
150g unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar
4 cups (600g) icing sugar, sifted
2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon,
plus extra to serve
Pomegranate syrup
1 pomegranate, halved
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
Preheat the oven to 170°C. Grease and
line two 22cm springform cake pans.
Place the tea bags in a jug with 1/2 cup
(125ml) boiling water and set aside to cool.
Beat the butter and sugar with electric
beaters for 5-6 minutes until thick and pale,
then add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition. Sift in the flour
and spices, and mix well to combine.
Remove and discard the tea bags and
slowly add the cooled tea to the batter,
beating constantly. Divide batter evenly
between the pans, spreading to even the
surface, then bake for 45-50 minutes until
golden and a skewer inserted into the
centre comes out clean. Cool the cakes
in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn out
on to a wire rack to cool completely.
For the icing, beat the cream cheese,
butter, brown sugar and icing sugar using
electric beaters for 6-8 minutes until
smooth and voluminous. Add ginger
and cinnamon, and beat to combine.
For the pomegranate syrup, place a
pomegranate half, skin-side up, in a sieve
over a bowl, and use a wooden spoon
to bash the skin so the seeds fall into the
sieve and the juice into the bowl. Repeat
with the remaining pomegranate half.
Reserve the seeds and place the juice
in a saucepan with the sugar and 1/2 cup
(125ml) water, then stir over low heat until
the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to
medium and simmer for 3-4 minutes until
reduced by half and a syrupy consistency.
Add the reserved seeds to the syrup and
set aside to cool.
Place one cake on a serving plate and
spread with half the icing. Top with the
other cake and spread the remaining icing
over the top. Drizzle over syrup and dust
with cinnamon just before serving. d.
RECIPEVALLILITTLE
PHOTOGRAPHYJE
REMYSIM
ONS
STYLING
DAVID
MORGAN
12 delicious.
Mix and match recipes from this issue to create a rustic dinner party with a hint of spice,a warming autumn lunch for Sunday at home, and a brunch to spoil Mum this Mother’s Day.
mother’s day brunchOnion & goat’s
cheese tarts
+
Caramel walnut slice
+
Lemon curd on brioche
12154 66
spice routeFarro salad with shanklish
+
Green harissa chicken
with baked couscous
+
Ginger creams with
poached plums
8234 59
autumn’s bestCarrot soup with herb
puree and prosciutto crisps
+
Pork with prosciutto
& apricots
+
Upside-down apple &
almond cake
with pistachios 2564 104
delicious.
ISSN
1448-4455
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EDITOR
Danielle Oppermann
FOOD DIRECTOR
Valli Little
EDITORIAL
Deputy Editor Shannon Harley [email protected] Subeditor/Online Editor Lara Zilibowitz [email protected]
Junior Subeditor Heidi Finnane [email protected] Coordinator Amy Pagett [email protected]
Editorial Enquiries (02) 8045 4909, [email protected]
ART
Art Director Shannon Keogh [email protected] Designer Kate Skinner [email protected]
FOOD
Assistant Food Editor Warren Mendes [email protected] Assistant Sarah Murphy [email protected]
Food Enquiries [email protected]
Senior Editor Matt Preston
Contributors Jill Dupleix, Andrea Frost, Bill Granger, Lizzie Loel,
Hilary McNevin, Jamie Oliver, Stephanie Westcott, Simon Wilkinson
NSW Sales Director Paul Blackburn (02) 8045 4666NSW Group Sales Directors Nicole Bence (02) 8045 4644,Sam Tomlinson (02) 8045 4676, Belinda Miller (02) 8045 4651
Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8045 4741VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204
VIC Group Sales Directors Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217,Lisa Mikkelsen (03) 9292 3206, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222
QLD Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903SA Advertising Representative Maree Marasco (03) 9292 2749
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Commercial Intergration Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8045 4737Commercial Integration Executive Caitlin Griffith-Pecset (02) 8045 4744
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Advertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack
Senior Art Director, Creative Services Lisa Klaus
Production Director Mark Moes [email protected] Manager Neridah Burke [email protected]
Ad Production Manager Katie Nagy (02) 8045 4923;[email protected]
Publisher ABC Magazines Liz White [email protected] Editor ABC Magazines Marija Beram [email protected]
Commercial Manager, Food Laura Lane [email protected] Manager Anthony Whittle [email protected]
Brand Manager Renee Gangemi [email protected] Assistant Lucy Johnston [email protected]
Group Circulation Manager, Food Sheri Mohamed [email protected]
Chief Executive Officer Nicole Sheffield
Group Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson
General Manager, Commercial Development Marcus Williams
Commercial Director Prue Cox
Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
Marketing Director Diana Kay
General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett Willis
Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; [email protected]
Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8045 4909, email: [email protected] Office, HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000. delicious. is
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delicious.reservestherightto
editreaderletters.
MEMORY LANE
Looking through the April issue, I came across the self-saucing
chocolate pudding (Wicked, p 68), which is similar to the one my
83-year-old mother used to make when we were kids. It brought
back some great memories – we used to drown it in cream and she
always used the same dish, I actually think she still has it. I know
what I’ll be making this weekend. Kathy Chambers, Woodford, NSW
BRAVE NEW WORLD
Inspired by your new seasonal feature, Hand Picked (Apr 14, p 26),
I bit the bullet and got cooking. What a result! My family left
no trace of Sydney chef Mark Jensen’s water spinach with
wild mushrooms, and wok-tossed soy and sesame beef. I will no
longer procrastinate when it comes to cooking from the magazine.
Jemima Clarke, Marsfield, NSW
LEADING BY EXAMPLE
My husband and I have made a conscious effort to eat less meat,
for both ethical and health reasons. I was pleased to see some tasty
vegetarian recipes in delicious., but you really surprised me with
Matt Preston’s ‘5 reasons to go meat-free’ column (Apr 14, p 46) – if
Matt can do it, then we all can. Louise van Camp, Petersham, NSW
QUICK FIX
One look at the salted chocolate and caramel tarts on the April
cover (Apr 14, Wicked, p 71) and I drove straight to the shops
after work, bought what I needed and got baking.
Robyn Moroneyo, Illawong, NSW
Follow us:
deliciousmagazine
Send your emails to [email protected] orwrite to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
LETTER OF THE MONTHI made Valli’s apple frangipane tart with salted caramel sauce
(Kitchen Diary, Mar 14, p 56) and it proved to be a hit as
a quick but impressive dessert. A friend who is currently
caravanning in the Northern Territory asked me for a
dinner-party dessert she could make in her tiny kitchen
and the tart immediately
came to mind. It was
an absolute winner for
her, too.Michelle Elliott,
Sydney, NSW
Ed’s note:
Congratulations,
Michelle! You’ve won a
Maggie Beer gift pack,
valued at $300. Visit:
maggiebeer.com.au.
delicious. 17
Events • Photo galleries
Our new feature, Cooking School, takes
you inside some of the best classes. This
month, not only are we featuring recipes
from food writer Anneka Manning’s
BakeClub (see p 68), but we’re offering you
the chance to attend at two special classes
in Sydney for delicious. readers. The theme
of these three-hour classes will be ‘Bake to
Entertain’, arming you with a collection of
fail-safe recipes for your next gathering.
Sip on De Bortoli Este sparkling wine as
Anneka shares her expert tips and tricks,
then walk away with a box of treats from the
day, a copy of Anneka’s book, Bake, Eat,
Love, and a bakeware gift fromWiltshire.
Places are limited, don’t miss out.
WHERE: Rosebery, NSW.
WHEN: Sunday, May 25,
1.30-4.30pm &
Monday, May 26, 6-9pm.
PRICE: $125 for a three-hour
cooking class with De
Bortoli Este sparkling wine
on arrival, a copy of Bake,
Eat, Love and a Wiltshire
bakeware gift.
BOOKINGS: Taken from 10am
Wednesday, April 16,
visit: bakeclub.com.au
or tel: (02) 9399 7645.
Chicken, leek & thyme pies
with simple flaky pastry
*
Caramelised onion
& blue cheese flatbread
*
Parmesan & sesame
biscuits
*
Gluten-free mandarin, coconut
& polenta cake with
toffee mandarins
*
Pear & rosemary tart
*
Chocolate Marsala
souffle pudding
with BakeClub in Rosebery, Sydney
in season.
delicious. 19
RECIPESALEXHERBERT
PHOTOGRAPHYMARKROPER
STYLIN
GBERNISMITHIES
Sydney chef Alex Herbert of Bird Cow Fish fame, who can
be found at her stall at Eveleigh Farmers’ Market on Saturday
mornings, shares a taste of the seasonal produce in her
basket this month, from sweet Jap pumpkin to lamb shoulder.
20 delicious.
in season.
Roast pumpkin & herb salad.
Opposite: braised lamb korma
with potato and coriander.
in season.
in season.
22 delicious.
in season.
Upside-down apple & almond
cake with pistachios. Opposite:
warm spiced rice salad with
fried cauliflower and broccoli.
in season.
24 delicious.
roast pumpkin & herb saladServes 6
1/3 cup (80ml) verjuice (unripe grape juice
from gourmet food shops), warmed
3/4 cup (120g) raisins
900g small Jap (kent) pumpkin, peeled,
cut into 3cm wedges
1 lemon, 1/2 thinly sliced, 1/2 juiced
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
2 tbs pepitas, toasted
1/2 bunch each, coriander, mint and
flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
Preheat oven to 200°C. Pour the verjuice
over the raisins and set aside to cool.
Arrange pumpkin and lemon slices on
a baking paper-lined baking tray. Drizzle
with oil, season, then roast for 35 minutes
or until soft and caramelised. Set aside to
cool. Reserve the oil from the baking tray.
Strain verjuice, reserving raisins, and
mix with lemon juice and reserved oil.
Place, pumpkin, lemon, raisins, pepitas
and herbs in a bowl and toss with dressing.
braised lamb korma withpotato and corianderServes 6
1.5kg lamb shoulder (off the bone),
fat trimmed, cut into 4cm pieces
2 tbs sunflower oil
2 onions, sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
5cm piece ginger, peeled, chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp garam masala
1/2 tsp red chilli powder
3 bay leaves
2 dried small red chillies
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
2/3 cup (165ml) chicken stock
250g sour cream
500g (about 4) Dutch cream potatoes,
peeled, cut into 3cm pieces
Coriander and naan bread, to serve
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Season the
lamb with salt. Heat the oil in a flameproof
casserole over medium-high heat. Cook
the lamb, in batches, turning, for 6 minutes
or until browned all over, then remove from
the pan. Reduce heat to medium, add the
onion and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Add the garlic and ginger,
then cook, stirring, for a further 1 minute.
Add spices, bay leaves and chillies, and
cook for 30 seconds or until fragrant.
Add the yoghurt, stock and sour cream,
then stir to combine.
Return the lamb to the casserole, season
with pepper and bring to a simmer over
medium heat. Cover surface with baking
paper cut to fit, then cover with a lid, and
place in the oven for 2 hours or until the
meat is tender.
Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a
saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to
the boil over medium heat and simmer
for 12-15 minutes until tender, then drain.
Add the potatoes to the curry and stir
to combine. Scatter with coriander and
serve with naan.
warm spiced rice salad withfried cauliflower and broccoliServes 6
13/4 cups (350g) brown rice
1/2 head broccoli, cut into florets
1/2 head cauliflower, cut into florets
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/2 tsp black mustard seeds
1/2 bunch each mint, coriander, flat-leaf
parsley, leaves picked
1/2 bunch spring onions, white and light
green parts thinly sliced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
100g thick Greek-style yoghurt
1 tbs harissa (from gourmet food shops)
Cook rice according to packet instructions
or until tender. Bring a saucepan of salted
water to the boil and blanch the broccoli
and cauliflower for 2 minutes or until
tender. Drain and set aside.
Heat oil in a large frypan over medium
heat. Cook the onion for 3-4 minutes until
softened. Add the garlic and mustard
seeds, and cook for a further 1-2 minutes
until fragrant. Add the cauliflower and
broccoli, increase heat to medium-high
and cook for 3-4 minutes until browned.
Transfer broccoli and cauliflower
mixture to a bowl with the rice, herbs
and spring onion, then season and toss
to combine. Squeeze over the lemon
juice and drizzle over extra oil.
Combine the yoghurt and harissa,
then serve with the warm salad.
upside-down apple & almondcake with pistachiosServes 10-12
250g unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
2 tbs brown sugar
6 eggs
1/2 cup (60g) almond meal
11/3 cups (200g) self-raising flour
1 tsp vanilla extract
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup (160g) apricot jam, warmed
2/3 cup (100g) slivered pistachios
Caramelised apples
40g unsalted butter
5 Granny Smith apples, peeled,
cut into thin wedges
1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar
Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a 23cm
springform cake pan with baking paper.
For the apples, melt the butter in a
frypan over medium-high heat. Add the
apple and cook, turning, for 4 minutes
or until golden and slightly softened. Add
the brown sugar and cook for 2 minutes
or until caramelised and a syrup forms.
Arrange apple slices in a single layer over
the base of the cake pan and set aside.
Beat the butter, caster sugar and brown
sugar using electric beaters for 4 minutes
or until thick and pale. Beat in the eggs,
1 at a time, then fold in the almond meal,
flour, vanilla and lemon zest.
Pour batter over apples and bake for
50-55 minutes until a skewer inserted into
the centre comes out clean. Allow to cool
then release pan and invert onto a plate.
Brush warmed jam over cake and
sprinkle over pistachios to serve. d.
Japanese, Jap or kent pumpkinis a sweet varietal with ribbedgreen skin. Look for heavyfruit with dry, hard skin andno bruises or soft spots. Roastkent pumpkins with theirskin on for added crunch;sweet and slightly nuttybutternut pumpkins are greatpureed in soups; and you canmake pumpkin scones withsteamed Queensland blue. Fora quick snack idea, make yourown crispy pumpkin seeds bycleaning the seeds, then patting dry and tossing in 1 tbs eachmelted butterand oil. Season and bake for 30 minutes in a preheated 180°C oven.
Shoulder is a cut that’s perfect for the cooler weather, as it’s good forlong, slow-cooking, roasting or braising. It’s an economical cut too.The flesh should be a clear rosy colour (avoid lamb with a dark brownshade) and any fat should be creamy-white and feel firm.
Part of the brassica family, cauliflower is made up of a central head(curd) protected by wide leaves. Choose a firm, compact and creamywhitehead with green, crisp leaves. Avoid vegetables with a yellow tinge andunpleasant smell. Look out for the purple heirloom variety that is sweeterthan commonwhite. Cauliflower can be eaten raw – try it shaved in a saladwith parmesan and a tangy dressing, finely chopped and used in place ofrice or couscous, or bake a whole head (see Jamie Oliver’s recipe, p 103).
First discovered and cultivated as a variety by ‘Granny’ Maria Ann Smithin the Ryde district of NSW, these apples are known for their glossy greenskin and crisp, white flesh that is tart, but sweetens with maturity. Chooseheavy fruit with smooth, clear skin and no soft or dark spots. Use themfor baking as they hold their shape as they cook, or add to a winter slawor cheeseboard as they are slower to brown than other varieties when cut.
What else to buy inMayFRUIT
• avocado (Sheppard and Hass; Bundaberg, Qld)
• rhubarb (Tamborine, Qld, and Vic) • tamarillo • Australian
kiwifruit (short season) • custard apple • quince
VEGETABLES• broccoli (Mornington Peninsula, Vic) • celery (Werribee and Clyde, Vic)
• parsnip (Mornington Peninsula, Vic, and Gatton, SA) • kohlrabi
• ginger (Buderim and Eumundi, Qld) • capsicum (Bundaberg, Qld)
• leek (Robinvale,Werribee andMornington Peninsula, Vic)
event.
In association with
Wewrapped up our series of ABC
delicious. Produce Awards showcase
events around the country with dinner at
Rushcutters in Sydney hosted by ABC 702
Sydney’s SimonMarnie (above left with
delicious. editor Danielle Oppermann).
NSW state judgeMartin Boetz (top right
with Produce Awards project manager
Lucy Allon) prepared a four-course feast
using some of the state’s best produce,
including Tathra Oysters and Palmers
IslandMulloway. Each course was matched
withMcWilliam’sWines. For more photos,
visit: deliciousmagazine.com.au.
showcase dinnerat Rushcutters, Sydney
delicious. 27
PHOTOGRAPHYANDYLEW
IS
Come to a place where you can discover an abundance of
locally caught, home-grown and organic produce. A place
that caters for all tastes. From casual alfresco dining and
first class restaurants to pubs and cafes, cooking schools,
farmers markets and food festivals.
Discover the naturally refreshing flavour of the Sunshine Coast.
The Spit, Mooloolaba
visitsunshinecoast.com.au
SCAN TODOWNLOAD
YOUR FREE
OFFICIAL FOOD GUIDE
MAKE THE MOSTOF THE MOMENT6DYRXU�WKH�ư�DYRXU�RI�WKH�6XQVKLQH�&RDVW
Trends • News • Travel • Products • Books
TABLE TALK• The Walter Burley Griffin-designed
Incinerator in Willoughby, Sydney, has
been given new life with a hip cafe
of the same name by owner Jonathan
Slingo (ex-Merivale). Serving up fresh
daytime dishes from the woodfired
oven alongside The Grounds Roasters
coffee as well as tipples after 10am if
you prefer a glass of Champagne with
your poached eggs and wood-smoked
salmon. Visit: theincinerator.com.au.
• Also on Sydney’s northside, Mercato
e Cucina (meaning ‘market and
kitchen’) is a sleek new Italian
restaurant in Gladesville with a bakery,
butcher, wine cellar, greengrocer
and deli on the side, so you can pick
up provisions after enjoying a plate
of braised veal shoulder ravioli.
Visit: mercatoecucina.com.au
• Smoked meats and fish, oysters and
absinthe, and all in a revamped pub –
oui monsieur! Le Bon Ton, formerly The
Glasshouse Hotel in Vic’s Collingwood,
has been taken over by the Balleau
brothers, who are also behind Chingon
in Richmond. Visit: lebontonmelb.com.
• Acclaimed chef Philippa Sibley and
restaurateur Jason M Jones have
opened Melbourne’s first ticketed
restaurant, Prix Fixe, in the CBD. The
monthly set menus are themed, from
‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ to ‘The
Whole Hog’. Visit: prixfixe.com.au.
• Passionate chef and ABC delicious.
Produce Awards judge Mark
McNamara (ex-Appellation), has
opened a space for interactive cooking
classes in SA’s Barossa Valley. Mark’s
classes explore a range of cuisines
and traditions. Visit: foodluddite.com.
delicious. 29
Sydney’s new northside
cafe, The Incinerator. Left:
old-world elegance at new
Melbourne absinthe and
oyster bar Le Bon Ton.
WORDSHEID
IFIN
NANE,SHANNON
HARLEY,HILARYMCNEVIN
&LARA
ZILIBOW
ITZ
LOCO FOR COCONot just for cooking, cold-pressed, organic virgin
coconut oil is a great treatment for hair and skin. We’re
loving the hair serum ($29.95/70ml) from Aussie-owned
Coconut Revolution. Visit: coconutrevolution.com.au.
IN SEASONWear your love of fresh
vegetables on your
sleeve with Gorman’s
graphic Winter Harvest
Dress. $269. Visit:
gormanshop.com.au.
30 delicious.
insider.
THE PERFECTGIFTThis month we bring you the ultimate foodie
gift to treat Mum or yourself with our premium
subscription package for only $120, including
a year of delicious. and a deluxe pantry box
including Atticus & Max Bloody Beetroot
Relish, David Bitton BBQ Sauce, Sami’s
Kitchen Zaatar, Stefano’s Lemon Curd, Bright
Chocolate Ecuador Block and Thistle Be Good
Moroccan Couscous. See p 48 for details.
KITCHEN GARDENAs the weather cools, it’s time to sow a winter crop
– think heirloom root veg such as beetroot, carrot
and celeriac. The Little Veggie Patch Co Heirloom
Seeds come in beautifully illustrated packs, from
$2.25. Visit: littleveggiepatchco.com.au.
RISE AND SHINEThe versatile Cuisinart Griddler
is a sandwich press and grill
with removable waffle plates,
so you can prepare the ultimate
Mother’s Day brunch with ease.
$219; waffle plates $49.95 extra
(gift with purchase until May 31).
Visit: cuisinart.com.au.
INNER-CITY BUZZHarvested from beehives
in the heart of Sydney,
Centennial Park Honey
is 100 per cent raw with
a unique floral flavour.
$13/300g. Visit:
centennialparklands.com.au
STACKING UPThis set of nesting cake tins in
the distinctive retro prints of Irish
designer Orla Kiely is a great gift
idea for the mum who bakes. $89.95.
Visit: domayneonline.com.au.
insider.
DanielWilson, chef and owner of Huxtable restaurant inMelbourne has come out with
Huxtabook: Recipes fromSea, Land and Earth (Hardie Grant, $49.95), a mix of playful
and elegant dishes from the restaurant and his travels. Easy to navigate, the book is
divided into chapters reflecting the restaurant’s menu – Bites, Sea, Land, Earth and Sweets.
Celebrating recipes handed down through the generations,Nonna toNana: Stories
of Food and Family ($59.95) documents the culinary traditions of 15 Australian
grandmothers from diverse cultural backgrounds.Written and published byMelbourne
sisters Jessie and Jacqueline DiBlasi, the book is inspired by recipes from their own
Nonna Giovanna, who shares her recipes for beef ragu and fried sweet ricotta cakes.
Tasty Express (RandomHouse, $39.99) is packed with easy-to-make recipes with
bold full-page photography from Sneh Roy of award-winning food blog Cook Republic.
Sneh presents a delicious range of new recipes and a handful of her most popular
creations, including sticky caramel chicken wings and gingerbread tiramisu.
With recipes for every occasion, from brunch and picnics to afternoon tea and dinner
parties, Three Sisters Bake (Hardie Grant, $39.95) by Scottish sisters Gillian, Nichola
and Linsey Reith, is a pretty celebration of food for sharing with friends and family.
Celebrity chef Pete Evans’ new book,Healthy Every Day (PanMacmillan, $39.99), has
plenty of inspiration for overhauling your weekly repertoire. Inspired by the paleo diet,
Pete has made over classic recipes to make them lighter and healthier –think fish tagine
with quinoa – also throwing in some sugar, gluten and dairy-free desserts.
TASTE TESTPARIS PASTRY CLUBHardie Grant, $34.95
French-born pastry chef Fanny Zanotti,
who currently works at London’s new
Chiltern Firehouse, shares recipes from
a life spent cooking in this nostalgic
cookbook. She reminisces about fond
memories from her family home – from
her mother’s orange and yoghurt cake
to her grandmother’s chewy nougat.
Fanny also shares her own recipes
from her years as a pastry chef in top
restaurants, such as her deconstructed
version of a pumpkin pie and a
decadent triple-chocolate mousse
cake. Her step-by-step instructions
take the mystery out of puff pastry,
but instead, I tried my hand at Fanny’s
grandmother’s clafoutis. I took her
lead and tweaked the recipe for the
season, using apples instead of
cherries. The result was simple and
splendid, a cross between a fruit flan
and a baked custard. Lara Zilibowitz d.
DON’T MISS• On Thursday, May 8, CampQuality
Supper Club is hosting a nation-wide
dinner party in 150 of Australia’s top
restaurants to support children living
with cancer. Some of the participating
restaurants include Sydney’s Quay and
Vue deMonde inMelbourne. Visit:
supperclub2014.org.au to book a table.
• Grab a picnic blanket and head to the
Tasting Australia’s Producers’ Picnic on
Sunday, May 4 in Victoria Square,
Adelaide. Browse the stalls, chat to the
producers and fill your basket with some
of the best produce the state has to offer.
Visit: tastingaustralia.com.au.
• Sample the best of Sydney’s markets
with ‘Markets inMay’, a month dedicated
to the finest stall-holders. Stop byMartin
Place at lunchtime on Thursday, May 1
for a freemarket display with producers
offering samples of their goods.
Make your next BBQ
memorable with our 100%
Australian Gold Angus
Beef Sausages, fl avoured
with cracked pepper and
Barossa Valley Shiraz wine.
WORDSLARA
ZILIBOW
ITZ
PHOTOGRAPHYNIG
ELLOUGH
delicious. 33
insider.
Flour and StoneWHERE 53 Riley St, Woolloomooloo,
NSW, (02) 8068 8818.
WHO Celebrated pastry chef Nadine
Ingram has opened up her own slice
of bakery heaven after working at
Le Gavroche and The Ivy in London,
and Sydney’s Bourke Street Bakery.
THE BUZZ This cosy inner-city cafe
bursts with an abundance of daily
baked goods and a constant flow
of people coming for breakfast,
lunch and everything in between.
THEMENU Breakfast staples include
avocado on toast or boiled eggs with
soldiers (the bread is from Brickfields
in Chippendale) and the rotating
blackboard menu could include a
Ferrero Rocher-like hazelnut torte,
leek and gruyere tart or Nadine’s
signature ‘joy of a lemon drizzle cake’.
THEDRINKSOrganic teas by Rabbit
Hole and brews by Coffee Alchemy.
MUST-EAT The lamington with sponge
layers soaked in panna cotta and
bound with berry compote.
Flour powerPastry chef Nadine Ingram has worked in some of the best-knownrestaurants and now offers daily baked goods at her Sydney cafe.
choc-hazelnut torteServes 8-10
12/3 cups (250g) hazelnuts, roasted,
skins removed, plus extra to serve
400g dark chocolate
250g softened unsalted butter
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
6 eggs, separated
3/4 cup (185ml) pure (thin) cream
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease
and line a 22cm springform pan.
Place the hazelnuts in a food processor
and whiz until finely ground. Set aside.
Place 220g chocolate in a food processor
and whiz until finely chopped. Set aside.
Using electric beaters, beat the butter
and 3/4 cup (165g) sugar until thick and
pale. Add yolks, 1 at a time, beating well
after each addition, until combined.
Gradually add chocolate and ground
hazelnut, beating until combined.
In a clean, dry bowl whisk eggwhites
with remaining 1/4 cup (55g) sugar until
stiff and glossy, then fold a little through
the chocolate mixture to loosen. Fold in
remaining eggwhite until just combined.
Pour into the pan and bake for 1 hour
10 minutes or until the centre of the cake
bounces back. Cool in pan for 10 minutes
then remove from pan and transfer to
a wire rack to cool completely.
Place the cream and remaining 180g
chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over
a pan of simmering water, until melted.
Cool, then spread ganache over the cake
and top with extra roasted hazelnuts.
Street smartThe team behind popular Brunswick Street Alimentari in Fitzroyhave branched out into another of Melbourne’s hot eat streets.
farro salad with shanklishServes 4
13/4 cups (400g) farro*
1 rosemary sprig
1 small onion, cut into wedges
1 bunch broccolini, blanched,
refreshed
1/2 bunch dill sprigs
1/2 bunch basil, leaves picked
1/3 cup (55g) blanched almonds,
roasted, chopped
100g shanklish* or feta, chopped
Basil pesto
Bunch basil, leaves picked
2 tbs pine nuts
1/3 cup (25g) grated parmesan
1/3 cup (25g) grated pecorino
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
Rinse the farro well and drain. Place faro,
rosemary and onion in a saucepan of cold
salted water over medium heat. Bring to a
simmer, then cook for 25-30 minutes until
tender. Drain the farro, discarding the
rosemary, season and set aside to cool.
Meanwhile for the pesto, place all the
ingredients in a small food processor and
process until a smooth paste.
Combine the farro with the broccolini,
dill, basil, and 1/2 cup pesto. Top with
almonds and shanklish, then serve.
* Farro (a grain from the same family
as pearl barley with a chewier, nuttier
texture) and shanklish (a Middle
Eastern cheese made from cow or
sheep milk that’s shaped into balls
and covered in zaatar, thyme and
pepper) are both available from
delis and gourmet food shops. WORDSHILARYMCNEVIN
FOOD
PHOTOGRAPHYBRETTSTEVENS
STYLIN
GBERNISMITHIES
34 delicious.
insider.
Smith StreetAlimentariWHERE 302 Smith St, Collingwood,
Vic, (03) 9416 1666.
WHO Meaghan Gorski and Paul and
Linda Jones who own all-day diner
Gorski and Jones next door have
created a food, wine and coffee hub.
THE BUZZ White tiled walls, high
ceilings and a vast array of deli goods
and take-home meals are feeding the
inner-north – think wine, charcuterie
and a wicked chocolate mousse.
THE MENU Free-range chickens,
suckling pig and roast beef twirl on
the rotisserie, while seasonal salads
may include roasted beetroot with
feta, walnuts and dill, or shaved fennel
with orange, chicory and currants. Plus
meatballs, risotto and pasta to go.
THEDRINKS There’s a smart wine list,
good coffee and juices.
MUST-EAT Roasted Bannockburn
chicken filled with lemon, rosemary
and parsley is a life-saver for the
cook’s night-off. Salads too are a must.
Upper crustTwo Adelaide chefs have teamed up to open new bakery and cafeButterfingers, where “handmade fun food” is the order of the day.
braised beef & cauliflower pieServes 8
1kg beef cheeks, trimmed
2 cups (500ml) red wine
11/2 tsp fennel seeds, ground
1 tsp whole black peppercorns
1 each cinnamon quill, bay leaf, star anise
1/3 cup (50g) plain flour
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1 each onion and celery stalk, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
100ml Pedro Ximenez or sweet sherry
3 sheets frozen shortcrust pastry, thawed
Chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve
Cauliflower puree
600g cauliflower, chopped
600g desiree potatoes, peeled, chopped
1/3 cup (80ml) pure (thin) cream
75g unsalted butter
Place the beef, wine, spices and 11/2 tbs
salt in a non-reactive bowl. Cover and
refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.
Drain the beef, reserving the wine and
discarding spices, and pat dry. Dust in
2 tbs flour, shaking off excess. Heat oil
in a casserole over medium-high heat and
cook beef, turning, for 7-8 minutes until
browned, then remove from casserole.
Reduce heat to medium, add onion,
celery and carrot, and cook for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Return beef to pan with the
reserved wine and 1 cup (250ml) water.
Cover surface with a piece of baking paper
and bring to a simmer. Cover with lid and
reduce heat to low. Cook, occasionally
turning beef, for 21/2 hours. Add the Pedro
Ximenez and cook for a further 30 minutes.
Combine remaining 2 tbs flour with1/3 cup (80ml) water, then stir into the
casserole until smooth. Cook for a further
5 minutes or until thickened. Cool slightly,
then chill to cool completely. Remove beef
and shred, then combine with 11/2 cups
thickened sauce and vegetables.
Meanwhile for puree, place cauliflower
and potato in a saucepan of cold salted
water. Bring to the boil and cook for
10-15 minutes until tender. Drain, mash
and beat in the cream and butter while
still warm. Season and set aside to cool.
Preheat oven to 210°C. Grease a deep
26cm pie dish and line with pastry,
patching sheets. Add beef, then top with
cauliflower puree. Bake for 35 minutes or
until pastry is golden. Serve with parsley. WORDSSIM
ON
WILKIN
SON
FOOD
PHOTOGRAPHYBRETTSTEVENS
STYLIN
GBERNISMITHIES
36 delicious.
insider.
ButterfingersWHERE 168 Melbourne St,
North Adelaide, SA, (08) 7225 8855.
WHO Bakers Domenic Tiani and
Nicole Abbasi have made their dough
in Adelaide institutions including
Mulots Patisserie, Nano, ETC and
Martini Restaurante, where they met.
THE BUZZ Butterfingers has only been
open a few months in well-heeled
North Adelaide, but its recycled
timber and metal are much older,
coming from a pavilion at the Wayville
Showground. Try for a seat at the
communal table outside if it’s warm.
THE MENU Domenic has a passion for
pies that are made with top-quality
ingredients in unique combinations.
“Butter sticks” are crunchy lengths
of house-made focaccia with different
fillings, while the apple and lemon
tarts are hard to pass up.
MUST EAT The pies. Try the braised
beef cheek with Pedro Ximenez and
cauliflower puree if it’s on. d.
NEWSLIFEMEDIA
CREATIVESERVIC
ES
delicious. CAMPBELL’S ADVERTISING FEATURE
Boost the flavour of these hearty family favouriteswith the all-natural range of Campbell’s Real Stock.
REAL BEEF BURRITOS1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
750g chuck steak or gravy beef,
thinly sliced
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp Mexican chilli powder
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tbs tomato paste
2 cups (500ml) Campbell’s Real Stock: Beef
400g can corn kernels, rinsed, drained
2 tomatoes, quartered, seeds removed,
thinly sliced into strips
1/2 bunch coriander, leaves chopped
6 tortillas, heated or chargrilled
Heat a non-stick frypan over medium heat.
Add 1 tbs oil and cook the beef, in batches,
stirring, until browned. Transfer beef to
a plate and set aside.
Add onion, garlic, Mexican chilli powder
and cumin to pan and cook, stirring, for
2 minutes. Return beef to pan with tomato
paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
Pour in Campbell’s Real Stock and
bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and
simmer for 30 minutes or until the liquid
has almost evaporated. Season to taste.
Meanwhile, combine the corn, tomato,
coriander and remaining 2 tbs oil in a bowl.
Season to taste.
To assemble, place a tortilla on a flat
surface. Place a little beef just left of centre.
Top with corn salsa and roll into a burrito.
Repeat with remaining tortillas and serve
immediately. Makes 6
OVEN-BAKED TOMATO
& CHICKEN RISOTTO
1 tbs olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
100g bacon rashers, thinly sliced
500g chicken thigh fillets, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
1 tbs finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)
2 cups (440g) arborio rice
The real dealOne hundred per cent all-natural
beef or chicken bones, vegetables
and spices, and four hours of gentle
simmering go in to each carton of
Campbell’s Real Stock. The result
is a clear stock that adds a deeper,
richer flavour to your favourite
meals in minutes. Perfect in risottos,
soups, casseroles and braises.
Take stock
2 tbs tomato paste
1L (4 cups) Campbell’s Real Stock: Chicken
Finely grated parmesan (optional), to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Heat the oil in a large flameproof,
ovenproof dish over medium heat. Cook the
onion and bacon, stirring, for 2 minutes or
until golden. Add the chicken and cook,
stirring, for 3-4 minutes until golden. Add
garlic, lemon zest, rosemary and chilli, if
using, and cook for a further 2 minutes.
Add the rice and cook, stirring, for
1 minute to coat the grains. Mix the tomato
paste and Campbell’s Real Stock in a jug and
Pour over rice. Bake, covered, for 35 minutes
or until rice is just tender and the liquid has
almost been absorbed. Stir through the
parmesan, if using, and serve. Serves 6
38 delicious.
$$$
From light and floral to dark and rich, Andreaexplains the spectrum of dessert wines.
what to drink when. by andrea frost
GIVENHOWLITTLE sweet wine we drink on a regular
basis, you might well be surprised how many styles there
are in the world. Dessert wines make up some of the world’s
most lauded, famous, expensive and delicious wines.
In Australia, dessert or ‘sticky’ wines fall broadly into
two camps: wines that are made from grapes that have
sweetened on the vine, and those that have been made
from wine that has been fortified during winemaking.
The first style, often made from semillon or riesling, produces wines that are light
golden in colour and super sweet. These grapes may have been left to ripen longer or
affected by a naturally occurring fungus, called botrytis cinerea, which transforms the
grapes into intense, sweet and unattractive looking bunches called ‘Noble Rot’. Look
for sweet or botriysed wines from warmer regions such as the Hunter Valley, Riverina
and North East Victoria. Flavours can include honey, apricots, marmalade, mandarins
and blossom. Pair such wines with fresh fruit, a lemon cheesecake or creme caramel.
The second style, the fortified wines, are those where fermentation has been
stopped early, some fortifying agent such as grape spirit added so that the wines are
higher in alcohol and hedonism. Such wines include sherry, liqueur muscat and port.
In Australia, you can’t go past Rutherglen in North East Victoria for some of the
worlds best fortified wines. Styles range from sweet, amber and luscious to dark,
rich and viscous. Pair with strong blue cheeses to rich chocolate desserts or, as
blasphemous as it is, pour over ice cream and top with shavings of chocolate. d.
Follow Andrea at newrubypress.com; and send your wine questions
for Andrea to: [email protected].
Sweet talk
“Does it matter which wine I use for cooking?”Yes, but it doesn’t have to be too special as it’s mostly used to boostflavours in the dish. The idea is that wine changes as it is heated – useamedium-bodied dry wine, so as not to overpower with tannins, andavoid wines that are highly acidic, as this is only amplified by cooking.
Campbells IsabellaRare RutherglenTopaque, $120
Like dark toffee, this wine
offers heady aromas of
treacle and mocha, while
the palate is intense, rich,
sweet and opulent. A rich
and complex wine to be
paired with the most
hedonistic offerings.
$$Brown Brothers PatriciaLate Harvest NobleRiesling 2008, $35
From the famous Milawa
vineyard this wine has a
golden colour with complex
aromas of warm honey and
marmalade. The palate is
rich with luscious sweetness
and wonderful length.
$De Bortoli Noble One2010, $33
An Australian wine icon.
Made from botrysied
semillon, it’s golden in
colour and offers a rich
bouquet and finely
balanced palate. Flavours
of honey, mandarin and
a hint of vanilla are lifted
with a little acidity.
WORDSANDREA
FROST
ILLUSTRATIO
NSSTEPHANIE
WESTCOTT
THE VIBRANT COLOURS, rich aromas
and complex flavours of Indian food
mean there are many reasons to love
this spice-laced cuisine. However, if
I had to choose only five, which I must
for this column, the reasons below draw
me back to the subcontinent literally
and in the kitchen.
1India is a jolly big place
The sheer size of India means a wealth
of different climates and environments, whichmeans not just 19
or so different regional cuisines but also the fact that everything
from coconuts to peppercorns varies in flavour from coast to
coast. It’s the same in cities likeMumbai
where you’ll find the local Marathi cuisine
living beside onion-free Gujarati food
from the north andMangalorean
cuisine from the south. So basically
calling something ‘Indian’ is about as
specific as calling a cow a ‘mammal’.
2Spice not spicy
Once Indian food was prized in the
West for its heat alone but in the last
decade we’ve started to understand it’s
the combination of spices that makes Indian cuisine special
rather than just the heat of dried red chilli. Oh, and that
This month, Matt shares his love of Indian cuisine in all its diversity, fromgolden fried street food to creamy curries redolent of the glory days of the Raj.
to love Indian foodateaspoon of curry powder just won’t cut it. It can be as simple
as poaching apricots with green cardamom pods or making a
tandoori marinade for chicken thighs out of lemon, yoghurt and
garlic with turmeric, cumin, coriander, cloves and cardamom.
3Indians are sweet on sour
Much is always made about the spice and heat of Indian
food but it’s the clever use of sourness that impresses me
most. Yoghurt or curd is a staple on many tables. While on the
Mangalore or Konkan coasts in the west not only do they use
yoghurt, lemon juice and vinegar, but also tamarind, mango and
sourness from two fruit trees related to the mangosteen. From
one comes powdered kokum (made from the dried skins of the
fruit), and from the fruit of the other, a sticky, dark and smoky
kachampuli or Coorg vinegar. Few things
are better than fried chicken tossed in
this tangy local vinegar or, continuing
the theme, the sourness of a properly
fermented lentil batter that adds tang
to those crispy pancakes called dosa.
4Street food
While rich dishes such as chicken
korma, creamy with pounded ingredients
including cashew, come from the royal
courts, some of India’s best dishes come
from far humbler places. Every city in India has its favourite
street food, whether it’s the crisp, puffed cups of semolina filled
with potato, chickpeas and tamarind called panipuri or lacy
orange sweet fried jalebi, the burrito-like kati rolls of Kolkata,
or the stuffed flatbreads called parathas in Old Delhi.
5Naan
Indians love their bread – unleavened chapati, flaky
paratha – but foremost amongst these are those puffy
tandoori-cooked naan whether brushed with ghee or stuffed
with dried fruit and nuts in the Kashmiri style. All I really need
to be happy is a good rogan josh and basket of garlic naan. d.
Matt Preston's latest cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Unbelievably
Delicious (Plum/ PanMacmillan; $39.99) is on sale now.
“It’s the combinationof spices that makesIndian cuisine specialrather than just theheat of dried chilli.”
ILLU
STRATIO
NSTEPHANIE
WESTCOTT
matt preston.
40 delicious.
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1
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1. Jura ‘Impressa J9.3’ One-Touch TFT Automatic Coffee Machine (J93), $2,950
Stylish and simple to use, the ‘J9.3’ features a large colour screen and scroll wheel, offering
a generous coffee menu with programmable functions. The machine makes silky-smooth
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are the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glasses: 85ml (6510352), $19.95; 270ml
(6510354), $34.95; and 105ml (6510353), $24.95 (all sets of two). To find the complete
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With its one-touch operation system,
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cafe-style accessories
Molten mocha puddings
2
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The only coffee machine that will make you a hot chocolate, the ‘PrimaDonna
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plus multi-user functionality that allows you the freedom to program your own. (Price
includes the milk jug and the separate hot chocolate carafe pictured). Also pictured is
the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glass, 270ml (6510354), $34.95 (set of two).
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are the Luigi Bormioli
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(set of two).
ADVERT I S EMENT
5
Espresso caramel tart
PERFECT FOR THOSE WHOLOVE being in full control
A manual machine offers complete
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•
Perfect your signature drink andexperiment with sophisticated
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TEST YOUR CULINARY SKILLS WITH
THIS ESPRESSO CARAMEL TART
For the complete recipe, visit
HN.COM.AU/ESPRESSOYOURSELF
6
7
FULL OF BEANS
D
AD-ON FOR THE ARTISAN
6. Sunbeam ‘Cafe Series’ Espresso
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The ‘Cafe Series’ machine is made
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Offering 18 grind settings and full control
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FRESH BEANS MAKE GREAT COFFEE
D. Délonghi Coffee Storage Vacuum
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8
9
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Featuring a programmable long and short
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the push of a button. Also pictured is the
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Combining striking European design with clever energy-saving features,
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espresso your personal styleHarvey Norman has everything you need to create a caféat home. Head in-store or online to view the full rangeG. A must for texturing milk, Dimora Caffé Milk Jug, 200ml (DCMJ6), $16.95.
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48 delicious.
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• Curtis Stone’s new LA restaurant • Baking basics • The best of Jewish comfort food
delicious. 51
ADVERTISING FEATURE
delicious. 53
valli’s kitchen diary.
RECIPESVALLILITTLE
PHOTOGRAPHYJE
REMYSIM
ONS
STYLING
BERNISMITHIES&
DAVID
MORGAN
Entertaining tonight,
but stuck for inspiration?
Valli saves the day with
three of her all-time
favourite dinner party
menus – take your pick
from stress-free French,
Italian or Thai.
onion & goat’s cheese tartsMakes 4
375g block frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (170g) onion jam
200g log firm goat’s cheese,
sliced into 4 rounds
1 tbs thyme leaves
Olive oil, to drizzle
2 tbs honey (optional)
Watercress sprigs, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a baking
tray with baking paper. Place the pastry
on a lightly floured surface and roll out to
5mm thick. Use a 7.5cm pastry cutter
to cut out 8 rounds. Lay 4 rounds on
the prepared baking tray and brush
with egg. Using a 5cm cutter, cut a hole
in the centre of the remaining 4 rounds,
discarding the small circles, and sit
the rings on top of the bases, pressing
gently to seal.
Bake the tart shells for 5 minutes or
until lightly puffed. Gently press down
the centre of the pastry and fill the cavity
with onion jam. Sit a round of goat cheese
on top and scatter with thyme leaves.
Drizzle with oil and bake for a further
8-10 minutes until the pastry is puffed and
crisp and the cheese is starting to melt.
Drizzle tarts with honey, if using, and
serve with watercress on the side.
valli’s kitchen diary.
delicious. 55
roast duck breast with orange,cranberry & walnut saladServes 4
1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 oranges
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbs soy sauce
1/2 cup (125ml) chicken stock
1/3 cup (110g) orange marmalade
4 duck breast fillets
Orange, cranberry & walnut salad
(recipe follows), to serve
Place sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml) water in a
saucepan over low heat and simmer until
sugar dissolves. Add citrus zest and juice,
soy, stock and 2 tbs marmalade. Return
to the boil, reduce heat to low and simmer
for 2-3 minutes until syrupy, then set aside.
Score the duck skin, season well and
place, skin-side down, in a cold frypan.
Place the pan over medium-low heat,
then cook for 5-6 minutes until the fat has
rendered and the skin is golden. Place,
skin-side up, on a baking tray and brush
with remaining 2 tbs marmalade. Bake for
5 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked
to your liking, then rest for 3 minutes.
Add the resting juices from the duck
to the sauce and gently reheat. Slice the
duck and serve with the salad and sauce.
orange, cranberry & walnut saladServes 4
2 tbs red wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
3 oranges
2 wiltof, leaves separated, torn if large
1/4 cup chopped dill
1/4 cup chopped chives
1/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1 celery heart, leaves torn
1/4 cup (40g) dried cranberries, soaked in
boiling water for 10 minutes, drained
1/2 cup (50g) walnuts, toasted, chopped
Whisk together the vinegar, oil and finely
grated zest and juice of 1 orange. Season.
Peel and segment remaining 2 oranges
and combine with the remaining salad
ingredients. Toss with dressing and serve.
make-ahead berry soufflesServes 4
Melted butter, to grease
1 cup (220g) caster sugar, plus extra
3 cups (450g) frozen berries,
thawed
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tbs cornflour
3 eggwhites
Icing sugar and vanilla ice cream,
to serve
Preheat oven to 200ºC. Grease four 1-cup
(250ml) capacity ramekins. Dust with extra
caster sugar, shaking out any excess.
Combine the berries, vanilla, lemon juice
and 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar with 1/4 cup
(60ml) water in a saucepan over medium
heat. Combine cornflour with 1 tbs water,
add to the berries and cook for 2-3 minutes
until fruit has broken down. (The mixture
can be chilled for 3-4 hours at this stage.)
Whisk eggwhites and remaining 1/2 cup
(110g) caster sugar in a bowl until thick and
glossy. Fold three-quarters of the cooled
berry sauce into the eggwhite. Divide the
remaining sauce among the ramekins and
top with eggwhite mixture.
Bake for 10-12 minutes until risen. Dust
with icing sugar and serve with ice cream.
56 delicious.
confit tomato& ricotta crostiniServes 4
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbs fennel seeds, crushed
1 tsp white sugar
2 x 250g punnets cherry tomatoes,
halved
8 slices sourdough bread
250g ricotta
Basil leaves, to serve
Preheat the oven to 150°C.
Combine oil, garlic, fennel seeds, sugar
and tomato in a bowl. Season and toss
gently to combine. Transfer to a baking
paper-lined baking tray and bake for
30 minutes or until soft and caramelised.
Chargrill the sourdough, then spread
with ricotta, top with confit tomatoes and
drizzle with pan juices. Season and serve
immediately with basil leaves.
pesto-crusted lamb rackswith golden parmesan potatoesServes 4
3 x 5-cutlet French-trimmed
lamb racks
100ml olive oil
4 potatoes, cut into 2cm-thick slices
120g jar good-quality basil pesto
2 cups (140g) fresh breadcrumbs
2 tbs Dijon mustard
2 tbs grated parmesan
Steamed green and yellow beans,
to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line 2 baking
trays with baking paper.
Season the lamb racks. Heat 1 tbs oil
in a frypan over medium-high heat. Cook
lamb, in batches, turning, for 3-4 minutes
until browned. Set aside to cool.
Place potato in a saucepan filled with
cold salted water over high heat. Bring
to the boil and cook for 3-4 minutes until
parboiled, drain and pat dry. Arrange slices
in a single layer on one of the baking trays,
drizzle with 2 tbs oil and season.
Combine the pesto, breadcrumbs and
remaining 2 tbs oil in a bowl, then season.
Spread the mustard over the skin side of
the lamb racks, then cover with the pesto
mixture, patting down well to form a
crust. Transfer the lamb to the other
baking tray and place in the oven, on the
top shelf, with the potato underneath,
then bake for 25 minutes or until the crust
is golden and lamb is medium-rare
or until cooked to your liking. Remove
the lamb and set aside to rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
Sprinkle the parmesan over the potato
and return them to the top shelf of the
oven for a further 10 minutes or until the
potato is cooked, crisp and golden.
Slice the lamb into cutlets and serve
with the potato and beans.
aperol spritz jelliesServes 4
Aperol is a classic Italian aperitivo,
but here I’m using it to end the meal.
6 titanium-strength gelatine leaves* (see
Shopping list, p 57)
150g caster sugar
750ml bottle prosecco
100ml fresh orange juice
1/2 cup (125ml) Aperol or Campari
Whipped cream, fresh orange segments
and blanched finely pared orange
zest, to serve
Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water
for 5 minutes to soften.
Place the sugar, prosecco and orange
juice in a saucepan over medium heat.
Warm gently, stirring, until sugar dissolves.
Squeeze excess water from the gelatine
and add to the orange juice mixture,
stirring until dissolved. Set aside for
10 minutes to cool. Strain mixture through
a sieve into a clean bowl and add the
Aperol. Pour into 4 serving glasses and
place in the fridge for 4 hours or until set.
Serve with whipped cream, orange
segments and orange zest.
valli’s kitchen diary.
thai fish pieServes 4-6
400ml can coconut milk
1 lemongrass stalk (inner core only),
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2cm piece ginger, grated
2 tsp grated palm sugar
1 long red chilli, seeds removed, chopped
2 tsp fish sauce
Juice of 1/2 lime
4 kaffir lime leaves, 2 shredded
2 tbs green curry paste
1.2kg pontiac potatoes, roughly chopped
80g unsalted butter, plus extra to dot
1/4 cup (60ml) milk
250g skinless ling fillets, chopped
250g skinless salmon fillets, chopped
16 green prawns, peeled, deveined
1 cup (120g) frozen peas, thawed
2 tbs finely chopped coriander leaves
Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Combine coconut milk, lemongrass, garlic,
ginger, sugar, chilli, fish sauce, lime juice, kaffir
lime leaves and curry paste in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring, then
set aside for 10 minutes to infuse.
Meanwhile, place potato in a saucepan
of cold salted water over high heat. Bring to
the boil, then simmer for 12 minutes or until
tender. Drain, then mash, add the butter and
milk, season and beat with a wooden spoon
until smooth and creamy.
Place the fish, prawns and peas in a 1.2L
baking dish. Remove lemongrass and whole
lime leaves from the sauce and discard. Add
the coriander, then pour over the seafood.
Top with the mashed potato, raking the surface
with a fork, and dot with extra butter.
Bake for 25-30 minutes until the top is
golden and seafood is cooked, then serve.
delicious. 59
thai chicken cakesMakes 24
These can be made ahead and reheated
in a 180°C oven for 20 minutes.
500g chicken mince
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup (35g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 tbs fish sauce
1 tbs red curry paste
2 tbs finely chopped coriander root
1 small red chilli, seeds removed,
finely chopped
4 spring onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60ml) sunflower oil
Iceberg lettuce, lime wedges
and sweet chilli sauce, to serve
Place the mince, egg, breadcrumbs, fish
sauce, curry paste, coriander root, chilli
and spring onion in a bowl and use your
hands to combine.
Using tablespoonfuls of mixture, shape
into 24 small patties, pressing to flatten
slightly. Transfer to a large baking tray and
chill for 15 minutes.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium-high
heat. Cook the patties for 2 minutes each
side or until cooked through.
Serve cakes with the lettuce leaves,
lime wedges and sweet chilli sauce.
ginger creams withpoached plumsMakes 6
3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves
11/2 cups (375ml) pure (thin) cream
1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
1 cup (250ml) ginger beer
2 tsp grated ginger
1/2 tsp ground ginger
Sunflower oil, to shallow-fry
8 wontons wrappers,
halved diagonally
Icing sugar, to dust
Poached plums
4 blood plums, halved
2 strips finely pared orange zest
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water
for 5 minutes to soften.
Meanwhile, combine the cream, sugar,
ginger beer and fresh and ground ginger
in a saucepan, and bring to a simmer over
medium heat. Squeeze excess water from
gelatine and add to cream mixture. Strain
mixture through a sieve into a bowl then
chill for 1 hour or until starting to thicken.
Remove from fridge, lightly whisk and
pour into six 200ml capacity ramekins.
Return to fridge for 4 hours or until set.
For the poached plums, combine the
plum, orange zest, sugar and 1 cup
(250ml) water in a saucepan over medium
heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat
to low and simmer for 5 minutes or until
plums are just tender and syrup thickens
slightly. Remove from the heat and
transfer to a heatproof bowl to cool,
then place in the fridge to chill.
Heat 1cm oil in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Fry wonton wrappers,
in batches, turning, for 30 seconds or until
crisp and golden. Remove and drain on
paper towel. Dust with icing sugar.
Serve creams garnished with wonton
crisps and poached plums. d.
valli’s kitchen diary.
60 delicious.
FAMILYLA-based Aussie chef Curtis Stone’s
first restaurant, Maude, dishes up
a unique produce-driven concept.
This month he shares punchy citrus
recipes from his debut menu.
curtis stone.
Opposite: lemon curd on brioche. This page (clockwise from
top left): the pared-back interior at Maude; Curtis Stone;
quaint touches in the dining room; Curtis plating up fettuccine
with prawns, finger lime and grapefruit beurre blanc.
WORDSLARA
ZILIBOWITZ
RECIPESCURTIS
STONE
FOOD
PHOTOGRAPHYMARKROPER
FOOD
STYLING
BERNISMITHIES
LOCATIO
N&PORTRAIT
PHOTOGRAPHYRAYKACHATORIAN
“There’s a tremendous amount of
in owning your own restaurant.”
creativity and excitement involved
MICHELIN STAR-TRAINEDCHEF, internationally recognised
television personality, best-selling author and entrepreneur with
famous good looks, Melbourne-born Curtis Stone seems to have
it all. Well, he does now, after the celebrated opening of his first
restaurant in LA, Maude, which is named after the 38-year-old’s
grandmother; who first taught him to make fudge when he was five.
The intimate 25-seat diner opened in February in Beverly Hills,
where Curtis lives with his wife, Lindsay, and two-year old son,
Hudson. “I literally bounce out of bed every day to get into the
kitchen. There’s a tremendous amount of creativity and excitement
involved in owning your own restaurant – for example I can’t wait
to see how the terrine turned out from the night before,” he tells us.
Before he gained international recognition hosting TV
programs such as Surfing the Menu, Take Home Chef and US
reality show Top Chef Masters, Curtis trained classically under
three-Michelin-star maestro Marco Pierre White in London at
The Cafe Royal and Mirabelle, before going on to become head
chef at Marco’s Quo Vadis. “It’s been too long since I was doing
the day in, day out in a restaurant kitchen. I’ve really cut back on
travel so that I can be here, on the line, every night that I possibly
can. It’s my second baby after Hudson.”
The concept is unique – each month Curtis sets himself the task
to come up with a new degustation menu centred around a single
seasonal ingredient. “For our opening month the theme was citrus,
next artichokes, then peas and so on. Sometimes the hero
ingredient is at the centre of the plate, and other times it’s a little
addition to set the meal off. The changing menu is a challenge
to test our creativity in the kitchen: how far can you go with citrus?”
Curtis’ aim was to create something sophisticated yet casual, in
the vein of a hosted dinner party with friends. This is reflected in
the eclectic mix of vintage crockery and photo of grandmaMaude
on the mantelpiece. Curtis’ wife even has a favourite table with
her name etched beneath. “I guess it’s a bit of a family affair and
an intimate, special space to be in everyday,” he says.
Visit: mauderestaurant.com.
curtis stone.curtis stone.
delicious. 63
Orange mostarda
with semolina crackers
orange mostardaMakes 11/3 cups (400g)
11/2 tbs caster sugar1/3 cup (80ml) champagne vinegar
1 tbs yellow mustard seeds
8 oranges
2 tsp sunflower oil
2 eschalots, finely chopped1/2 cup (180g) honey
1 rosemary sprig
1 thyme sprig
1 tbs Dijon mustard
2 tbs mustard powder
Semolina crackers (recipe follows),
to serve
To pickle the mustard seeds, place the
sugar, 1/4 cup (60ml) vinegar and 1/3 cup
(80ml) water in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Bring to the boil,
add the mustard seeds and cook for
8-10 minutes until a thick syrup. Cool.
Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to
peel the oranges in long strips – do not
remove the white pith. Finely dice the peel
until you have 1 cup (170g) peel. Juice one
orange (you’ll need 1 tbs juice).
Bring a saucepan filled with water to
the boil over high heat. Add the diced
orange peel and cook for 5 minutes.
Drain. Repeat this process twice so
the citrus is tender and no longer bitter,
then refresh in iced water.
Heat a small saucepan over medium-low
heat. Add the oil, eschalot and a pinch
of salt, then cook, stirring, for 3 minutes
or until tender. Add the honey and
2 tbs water, and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat. Add the rosemary and
thyme. Simmer for 5 minutes for the
flavours to infuse, then remove the
rosemary and thyme and discard. Whisk
in the mustard, mustard powder and
remaining 1 tbs vinegar. Simmer, whisking
constantly, for 5 minutes or until the liquid
is reduced by one-third.
Reduce heat to low, add the blanched
peel and cook for 5 minutes or until peel is
translucent. Remove from the heat and stir
in the pickled mustard seeds with reserved
1 tbs orange juice. Season and chill until
ready to serve with semolina crackers.
semolina crackersMakes 36 crackers
You will need a pasta machine.
3/4 cup (110g) plain flour3/4 cup (110g) semolina flour
21/2 tbs olive oil,
plus extra to brush
Using an electric stand mixer fitted with
the dough hook attachment, mix the
flours, oil, 1/2 cup (125ml) warm water and
1 tsp fine sea salt for 7 minutes on medium
speed or until the dough is smooth.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured
work surface and form into a ball. Divide
the dough into 8 portions and place the
portions on a lightly oiled baking tray.
Cover and set aside at room temperature
for 30 minutes to rest.
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Line 2 large
baking trays with baking paper. Set a pasta
machine on the widest setting. Run the
dough through a few times, folding
it in half each time, until elastic. Keep
rolling the dough through the settings,
reducing the thickness each time, until
2mm thick. Lay the sheet on a baking tray.
Repeat with the second piece of dough
and place on the tray next to the other
sheet. Repeat with 2 more pieces of dough
and place on the second tray. (Reserve the
remaining 4 pieces for a second batch).
Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the
dough sheets with oil and sprinkle with
sea salt flakes. Prick the dough sheets all
over with a fork and bake, rotating pans
halfway, for 10 minutes or until golden.
Set aside to cool then break into pieces.
Repeat with remaining 4 balls of dough.
carrot soup with herb pureeand prosciutto crispsServes 6 as a starter
4 slices prosciutto
1 tbs olive oil
2 eschalots, finely chopped
800g carrots, cut into 3cm pieces
1.25L (5 cups) chicken stock
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
and juice of 3 oranges
Creme fraiche, to serve
Herb puree
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley,
leaves picked
2 tbs chopped chives
2 tbs chopped tarragon
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the
prosciutto on a baking tray lined with
baking paper and bake for 8 minutes
or until prosciutto is crisp and brittle.
Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
Break into small pieces and set aside
until ready to serve.
For the puree, place herbs in a small
saucepan of boiling water and blanch
for 2 minutes or until leaves start to break
down. Drain and refresh in iced water.
Drain the herbs and place in a small food
processor. Season with a generous pinch
of salt. Add 1 tbs water and blend until
smooth. Cover and refrigerate.
Heat oil in a large saucepan over
medium heat. Add the eschalot, then
season and cook for 2 minutes or until
tender. Add the carrot and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 10 minutes or until
starting to soften.
Add the stock and cook for 40 minutes
or until the carrot is tender and the stock
has slightly reduced. Remove from the
heat and stir in the orange juice and zest.
Use a stick blender to blend until smooth.
Serve the soup topped with herb puree,
creme fraiche and prosciutto chips.
delicious. 65
curtis stone.
Carrot soup with herb
puree and prosciutto crisps
66 delicious.
curtis stone.
“The monthly menu is a little challenge to test our
creativity in the kitchen: how far can you go with citrus?”
fettuccine with prawns, fingerlime and grapefruit beurre blancServes 4-6
2 tbs olive oil
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced,
fronds reserved
1/2 bunch cavolo nero (Tuscan cabbage),
thinly sliced
1 long red chilli, thinly sliced
18 large green prawns, peeled
(tails intact), deveined
400g fettuccine
3 finger limes (optional), peeled
Grapefruit beurre blanc
1 cup (250ml) grapefruit juice,
strained
1 cup (250ml) dry white wine
1 eschalot, thinly sliced
1 tarragon sprig
1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
1/4 cup (60ml) pure (thin) cream
125g chilled unsalted butter, chopped
Garlic chips
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Sunflower oil, to shallow-fry
For the garlic chips, fill a small saucepan
with 3cm oil and place over medium heat.
In 2 batches, add garlic and shallow-fry,
stirring, for 1 minute or until golden.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic
to a piece of paper towel to drain.
For the grapefruit beurre blanc,
combine the grapefruit juice, wine,
eschalot, tarragon, and peppercorns in a
small saucepan over medium-low heat and
simmer gently for 30 minutes or until the
liquid is reduced to 1/3 cup (80ml). Strain
the liquid and return to the saucepan.
Place the saucepan over low heat and
whisk in the cream. Add the butter, 1 piece
at a time, whisking constantly to form a
smooth, creamy sauce. Season with salt,
remove from the heat and cover to keep
warm, whisking occasionally.
Heat a large frypan over medium-high
heat. Add 1 tbs oil with the fennel slices
and cook for 5 minutes or until golden and
softened. Add the cavolo nero and chilli,
then cook for a further 2 minutes or until
the cavolo nero is just wilted. Season and
remove fennel mixture from the pan.
Return the pan to medium-high heat.
Add remaining 1 tbs oil and prawns and
cook, turning, for 4 minutes or until just
cooked. Return the fennel mixture to the
pan with the prawns and toss to combine.
Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine in a
saucepan of boiling salted water according
to packet instructions or until al dente.
Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the
pan with the prawns, and toss to coat.
Add the beurre blanc, fennel fronds
and 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta cooking water.
Season and toss to combine.
Serve pasta immediately topped with
garlic chips and finger lime pearls, if using.
lemon curd on briocheMakes 4 cups
This curd is my dear mum Lozza’s recipe.
It’s one of the first things she taught me to
make – we’d have it on toast for breakfast.
You will need a kitchen thermometer. Store
any leftover curd in an airtight jar in the
fridge for up to 3 weeks.
5 eggs
11/4 cups (275g) caster sugar
1 cup (250ml) freshly squeezed lemon
juice (from about 6 lemons)
250g unsalted butter, at room
temperature, chopped
Toasted brioche slices, icing sugar, ice
cream and mint, to serve
In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the
eggs, caster sugar and lemon juice. Set
the bowl over a saucepan of simmering
water and whisk constantly for 10 minutes
or until it reaches 85°C. The mixture
should be smooth and thick, similar
to hollandaise sauce.
Remove the bowl from the heat and set
aside to cool to 35°C. Whisk in the butter,
1 piece at a time, until combined, then
strain through a fine sieve. Cover the
surface of the curd with plastic wrap to
prevent a skin from forming. Cover and
refrigerate for 3 hours or until thickened.
Serve curd spread on toasted brioche,
then dust with icing sugar and top with
a scoop of ice cream and mint leaves. d.
Fettuccine with prawns,
finger lime and grapefruit
beurre blanc
Sydney-based author, food editor and baking whiz Anneka Manning’s
new cooking school, BakeClub, celebrates the traditional art of baking
and the timeless techniques that get passed through the generations.
delicious. 69
cooking school.cooking school.
Opposite: caramelised onion & blue cheese flatbread.
This page (clockwise from top left): BakeClub classes
are hands on; Anneka Manning; chocolate chunk fudge
& hazelnut cookies (recipe p 72); orange blossom
cheesecake with pomegranate syrup (recipe p 74).
cooking school.
70 delicious.
CREATING AN ETHEREAL SPONGE, complete with jam, cream and the
CWA tick-of-approval is the stuff of baking dreams, but such techniques
have become a forgotten craft in our busy lives (not to mention the
proliferation of artisan bakeries and patisseries around the country
making it so easy – and appealing – to cheat).
With this in mind, Sydney-based author and food editor AnnekaManning
created BakeClub. “I discovered that so many people loved the idea of baking,
but they didn’t do it at home because it was too hard and they didn’t have the
time,” says Anneka. “I wanted to bring back traditional skills and show people
that baking doesn’t have to be tricky.” And so, drawing on her 23 years of
experience in Australian food print media and her passion for baking, Anneka
launched BakeClub a year ago.
Each month Anneka hosts pop-up demonstrations and private classes in
major cities and regional areas around the country. Classes are hands-on and
focus on recipes that home cooks want to make. We joined Anneka for one of
her 3-hour classes at a bright and airy studio in Sydney’s Rosebery where she
guided us through baking 101, sharing her expert tips and tricks along the
way. “BakeClub is about empowering people, so they enjoy baking,” she says.
WORDSHEID
IFIN
NANE
RECIPESANNEKA
MANNIN
GPHOTOGRAPHYALAN
BENSON
STYLING
BERNISMITHIES
OWNER AnnekaManning.
STYLE Traditional baking
techniques and heirloom recipes
adapted to suit modern lifestyles.
WHERE Catch Anneka at a
number of locations, including
Thredbo, NSW; Jindabyne, NSW;
and Sydney’s Rosebery (see Out
& About, p 17, for our exclusive
reader event with Anneka in
Rosebery) as well as private
group classes at various locations
around the country.
UPCOMING CLASSESNo Time
to Bake, Thredbo, May 3; Monday
Morning Cooking Club – Family
HeirloomBaking, Sydney, June 2;
Let’s Eat Cake, Sydney, June 15.
All classes are $150/person.
Visit: bakeclub.com.au.
caramelised onion& blue cheese flatbreadServes 10 as a starter
20g unsalted butter
3 red onions, halved, thinly sliced
2 tbs brown sugar
150g gorgonzola dolce* (see Shopping
list), crumbled
1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts
Rocket leaves, to serve
Flatbread dough
3 cups (450g) bread & pizza flour* (see
Shopping list), plus extra to dust
7g sachet dried instant yeast
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
For the dough, combine flour, yeast and
1 tsp salt in a large bowl and make a well
in the centre. Combine oil and 1 cup
(250ml) warm water, then add to the flour
mixture. Stir to combine, then use your
hands to form into a soft dough. Turn out
onto a lightly floured surface and knead
for 5-8 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Place the dough in an oiled bowl,
turning to coat lightly with the oil. Cover
with plastic wrap and rest in a warm place
for 1 hour or until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, to make the caramelised
onion, place the butter and onion in a
saucepan over medium heat and cook,
stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes
until onion is soft. Sprinkle with the sugar
and cook, stirring, for 6-8 minutes until
the onion is glossy and caramelised, and
any excess liquid has evaporated. Remove
from heat and set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 230°C. Line a large
baking tray with baking paper.
Knock back the dough. Turn out onto
a lightly floured surface and knead for
2-3 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Roll out to a 1cm-thick 40cm x 25cm oval.
Transfer to the lined baking tray. Top
the dough with the caramelised onion,
leaving a 1cm border, then sprinkle over
the gorgonzola and pine nuts. Season
with freshly ground black pepper and
bake for 18-20 minutes until golden
and cooked through.
Allow the flatbread to cool for
5 minutes, then scatter with rocket
leaves. Slice into wedges and serve
warm or at room temperature.
“I wanted to teach people how to bake and
show that it doesn’t have to be tricky.”
THE DELI &GOURMET SHOPFreeze-dried raspberries,have a long shelf life andadd a crunchy texture tocake toppings and biscuitdoughs. Available from:essentialingredient.com.au; substitute fresh orfrozen, thawed berries.
Gorgonzola dolce, mildcreamy Italian bluecheese; substitute anothersoft blue cheese.
Orange blossom water,traditionally used inMiddle Eastern dessertsto add a delicatefloral flavour.
THE SUPERMARKETBread & pizza flour, (alsoknown as ‘strong’ flour)has a higher gluten-content than regular plainflour and is more suited touse in yeast-based recipes.
layered white chocolate cakeServes 15
400g white chocolate, chopped
300g unsalted butter, cut into 1cm pieces
300ml milk
11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs, at room temperature,
lightly beaten
3 cups (450g) plain flour
3 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup (165g) good-quality raspberry jam
Freeze-dried raspberries* (see Shopping
list) or fresh raspberries, to decorate
White chocolate ganache
750g white chocolate, chopped
1 cup (250ml) pure (thin) cream
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Grease
and line two 20cm round cake pans.
Place chocolate, butter and milk in
a saucepan over medium heat and cook,
stirring, until melted and smooth. Transfer
to a bowl and set aside to cool completely.
Add the sugar, vanilla and eggs to the
chocolate mixture and whisk until well
combined. Sift in the flour and baking
powder, then stir until just combined.
Divide mixture evenly between cake pans
and tap pans gently on a flat surface to
remove any air bubbles. Bake for 1 hour
or until a skewer inserted into the centre
comes out clean. Cool the cakes in pans
for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire
rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, for the ganache, place the
chocolate and cream in a heatproof bowl
set over a saucepan of simmering water
(don’t let the bowl touch the water),
stirring until smooth and melted. Remove
bowl from heat and cover with plastic
wrap. Chill, stirring occasionally, for
11/2 hours or until it reaches a thick
spreadable consistency. Divide the
ganache into three portions (you will use
1 portion for the filling and the remaining
2 to ice the cake) and use immediately.
To assemble the cake, trim the top of
the cooled cakes to level, then slice each
cake in half horizontally. Place one cake
layer on a serving plate, and spread with
one-third of the ganache filling, then top
with 2 tbs jam. Repeat layering two more
times, finishing with a final layer of cake.
Using a palette knife, spread remaining
ganache icing over the top and sides
of the cake. Decorate the cake with
freeze-dried raspberries, then serve.
cooking school.
72 delicious.
chicken, leek & thyme pieswith simple flaky pastryMakes 6
400g desiree potatoes,
peeled, cut into 2cm pieces
60g unsalted butter
2 leeks (pale part only), halved
lengthways, chopped
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
4 prosciutto slices, chopped
1/3 cup (50g) plain flour
1/2 cup (125ml) milk
2 quantities Anneka’s simple flaky
pastry (recipe follows)
10 thyme sprigs, leaves removed
1 egg, lightly beaten with 2 tsp milk
Poached chicken
1.5kg whole chicken
2 carrots, thinly sliced
2 celery stalks,
thinly sliced
1 onion, unpeeled, quartered
2 bay leaves
10 whole peppercorns
For the chicken, place all ingredients in
a large saucepan or stockpot and add
enough cold water to cover the chicken by
about 2cm. Cover with a lid and bring to
the boil over medium heat. Reduce heat
to low and gently poach for 40 minutes or
until the chicken is just cooked through.
Remove the chicken from stock, transfer
to a bowl and place in the fridge to cool.
Strain the stock, discarding the solids.
(The stock can be reserved and kept
frozen for up to 3 months). Return 1.5L (
6 cups) stock to the saucepan and bring
to the boil. Add the potato and boil for
8 minutes or until just tender. Remove
the potato from the stock with a slotted
spoon and set aside. Continue boiling
the stock for a further 15 minutes or until
reduced to 2 cups (500ml). Set aside.
Meanwhile, shred the chicken meat,
discarding the skin and bones. Cover
and chill until needed.
Melt 20g butter in a saucepan over
medium-low heat. Add the leek, celery
and prosciutto, then cook, stirring
occasionally, for 15 minutes or until
the vegetables are just soft. Transfer
to a bowl and set aside.
Melt the remaining 40g butter in
a saucepan over medium heat. Add the
flour and whisk for 1 minute. Remove
pan from heat and gradually add
the reduced stock and milk, stirring
constantly, until smooth and combined.
Return pan to medium heat and cook,
stirring constantly, until thickened and
simmering. Remove from heat and
transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the
shredded chicken, potato and leek
mixture, then season well with salt
and freshly ground black pepper.
Chill for 1 hour or until cooled.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease
six 3/4 cup (185ml) ovenproof dishes
or ramekins.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured
work surface until 4mm thick. Using the
top of one of the dishes as a guide, cut
out 6 rounds of pastry. Divide the chicken
mixture among the dishes and top each
pie with some thyme leaves. Brush the
edge of the dish with a little of the egg
wash, then place a piece of pastry over
each pie. Press down the edges with a
fork to seal. Cut a small cross or two slits
in the top of each pie, then brush pastry
with a little egg wash to glaze.
Place the pies on a baking tray and
bake for 25-30 minutes until the pastry
is golden and crisp.
Serve pies straight from the oven.
anneka’s simpleflaky pastryMakes 3-4 individual pie tops
or one 25cm pie top
11/4 cups (185g) plain flour
125g unsalted butter, frozen
Combine the flour and a pinch of salt in
a bowl. Holding the frozen butter with
a piece of foil or baking paper (this will
prevent it from melting), coarsely grate
onto a chilled plate. Add grated butter
to the flour, then using a round-bladed
knife or palette knife, cut through the
flour and butter until mixed and evenly
combined. Sprinkle 1/3 cup (80ml) chilled
water over the flour and butter mixture.
Using the knife again in a cutting motion,
mix until evenly combined and the mixture
starts holding together. Press a little of
the mixture between your fingers, if it
holds together easily, there is no need
to add more water. If it doesn’t, add an
extra 1 tsp chilled water, then test again.
Bring the pastry together with your hands
and transfer to a lightly floured, cool work
surface. Lightly knead the pastry with your
fingertips for 30 seconds or until smooth
and soft (the butter pieces will be visible
in the pastry). Shape the pastry into a
disc, then enclose in plastic wrap and
chill for 30 minutes before using.
chocolate chunk fudge& hazelnut cookiesMakes about 35
These cookies will keep in an airtight
container in a cool place for up to 2 weeks.
450g good-quality dark chocolate,
roughly chopped
125g unsalted butter, softened
1/2 firmly packed cup (125g)
brown sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
11/2 cups (225g) plain flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
3/4 cup (100g) roughly chopped
roasted hazelnuts
Place 300g dark chocolate in a heatproof
bowl set over a saucepan of simmering
water (don’t let the bowl touch the water).
Stir over low heat until the chocolate is
melted and smooth. Remove from the
heat and set aside to cool.
Beat the butter and sugar with electric
beaters until thick and pale. Add the
eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after
each addition until well combined.
Add the cooled chocolate and beat
until combined. Sift the flour and baking
powder together, then fold into the
mixture. Add the hazelnuts and remaining
150g dark chocolate, then stir until evenly
combined. Cover the bowl with plastic
1. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface
until 4mm thick. 2. Brush the edge of the dish with
a little eggwash so the pastry adheres during cooking.
3. Brush the pastry with a little eggwash for a golden
crust. 4. Serve the pies straight from the oven.
cooking school.
wrap and chill for 1 hour or until the
mixture is firm enough to roll into balls.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a large
baking tray with baking paper.
Roll heaped tablespoonfuls of the
cookie dough into balls and place on the
baking tray, spaced 5cm apart. Place any
remaining dough back in the fridge. Use
your hands to flatten the balls slightly until
4cm in diameter, then bake for 10 minutes
or until they are still slightly soft to the
touch. Remove the cookies from the oven
and cool completely on the tray. Repeat
with the remaining dough.
orange blossom cheesecakewith pomegranate syrupServes 10
100g plain sweet biscuits (we used
morning coffee biscuits)
50g unsalted butter, melted
375g cream cheese, at room
temperature, cut into 1cm pieces
3 eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup (185g) sour cream
1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream
3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar
1 tbs finely grated orange zest
3 tsp orange blossom water*
(see Shopping list, p 70)
Orange & pomegranate syrup
Seeds of 1 pomegranate,
juice reserved
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
1/2 cup (125ml) orange juice, strained
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease a 20cm
springform cake pan and line the base
with baking paper.
Place the biscuits in a food processor
and whiz until fine crumbs. Add the
melted butter and whiz until combined.
Sprinkle biscuit mixture over the base of
the pan and press down to cover evenly.
Place the pan on a baking tray and chill
for 30 minutes.
Whiz cream cheese in the cleaned food
processor until smooth. Add eggs and
whiz to combine, then add the sour
cream, cream, sugar, orange zest and
orange blossom water, and whiz until well
combined, scraping down the side and
base of the bowl if necessary.
Remove the pan from the fridge and
pour mixture over the biscuit base. Gently
tap the pan on the bench to remove any
air bubbles, then bake for 1 hour and
10 minutes or until the cheesecake is just
set but the centre still has a slight wobble
when gently shaken. Turn off the oven and
cool the cheesecake in the oven with the
door ajar for at least 1 hour (this helps
prevent the top of the cheesecake from
cracking). Transfer the cheesecake to
the fridge and chill for at least 3 hours.
For the pomegranate syrup, strain the
juice from the seeds into a small saucepan
and set the seeds aside. Add sugar and
orange juice to the pan and stir over
medium-low heat until sugar dissolves.
Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes
or until the syrup has thickened and
reduced to 1/3 cup (80ml). Remove from
the heat and set aside to cool. Once cool,
stir in the reserved pomegranate seeds.
Slice the cheesecake into wedges and
top with pomegranate syrup to serve.
gluten-free mandarin,coconut & polenta cakewith toffee mandarinsServes 10
2 large mandarins
1 cup (100g) almond meal
1/2 cup (90g) instant polenta
1/2 cup (45g) desiccated coconut
1/2 tsp baking powder
3 eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar
11/2 tsp vanilla extract
Double thick cream, to serve
Toffee mandarins
4 mandarins, peeled, thinly sliced
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
Place the whole mandarins in a small
saucepan and cover with water
(if necessary, top with a small saucer
and a sheet of baking paper to keep
the mandarins submerged). Bring to
the boil, then cook for 45 minutes or
until very soft when tested with a skewer.
Drain and set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Line the
base and sides of a 20cm springform
cake pan with baking paper.
Quarter the boiled mandarins,
discarding the core and any seeds.
Whiz in a small food processor until
smooth. Set puree aside.
Combine the almond meal, polenta,
coconut and baking powder in a bowl
and stir to combine.
Beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla with
electric beaters until very thick and pale
and a ribbon trail forms when the beater
is lifted (this will take about 3-4 minutes).
Fold the mandarin puree into the egg
mixture until just combined, then fold in
polenta mixture until evenly combined.
Pour the mixture into the prepared pan
and smooth the surface with the back
of a spoon. Bake for 40-45 minutes until
the cake is firm to the touch and a skewer
inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Cool the cake in the pan for 5 minutes
before releasing the pan and transferring
the cake, still on the base, to a wire rack
to cool completely.
Meanwhile, for the toffee mandarins,
line a large baking tray with baking paper
and arrange the mandarin slices in a
single layer on the tray. Place the sugar
and 1/3 cup (80ml) water in a small
saucepan and stir over medium heat,
without boiling, until the sugar dissolves.
Bring to the boil, without stirring, and
cook, occasionally brushing the sides
of the pan with a pastry brush dipped
in water to remove any sugar crystals, for
7-10 minutes until golden. Remove from
heat and drizzle half the toffee evenly
over the mandarin slices. Set mandarins
aside to cool. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) water to
the remaining toffee and stir to combine
and form a syrup. Pour the hot toffee
syrup over the cake and set aside to cool.
Serve the cake topped with the toffee
mandarin slices and cream on the side. d.
74 delicious.
Gluten-free mandarin,
coconut & polenta cake
with toffee mandarins
RECIPESWARREN
MENDES
PHOTOGRAPHYBEN
DEARNLEY
STYLING
BERNISMITHIES
Experimenting with global cuisines doesn’t have to
be tricky when you can whip up a Sri Lankan fish curry
or lamb schnitzel with slaw in 30 minutes or less.
sri lankan salmon curryServes 4
2 garlic cloves
3cm piece ginger, sliced
2 tsp each panch phoran*
and whole coriander seeds
1 tbs mild madras curry powder
2 small green chillies, chopped
2 tbs sunflower oil
1 onion, chopped
4 tomatoes, chopped
10 curry leaves
1 bunch broccolini
270ml can coconut milk
600g skinless salmon fillets,
cut into 3cm pieces
Shredded coconut, lime wedges,
chutney and warmed roti, to serve
To make the curry paste, place the garlic,
ginger, spices and chilli in a mortar and
pestle and grind to a paste. Set aside.
Heat oil in a saucepan over medium
heat. Add onion and cook for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Add the curry paste and
cook, stirring, for a 2 minutes or until
fragrant. Add the tomato, curry leaves
and broccolini, then cook for a further
2 minutes. Add the coconut milk
and 1/2 cup (125ml) water, then bring
to a simmer. Add the salmon, season
and cook for a final 5 minutes or until
the salmon is just cooked.
Garnish the curry with shredded coconut
and serve immediately with lime wedges,
chutney and warmed roti.
* Panch phoran is an Indian whole spice
mix available from gourmet food shops.
delicious. 77
daily special.
mushroom san choy bowServes 4
1/4 cup (60ml) peanut oil
600g mixed mushrooms (such as
shiitake, enoki, oyster, button),
finely chopped
2 small carrots, finely chopped1/2 bunch spring onions, finely chopped
1 bunch coriander, roots chopped,
leaves picked
1 long red chilli, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 tbs grated ginger
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
11/2 tbs fish sauce1/4 cup (60ml) kecap manis*1/3 cup (50g) unsalted peanuts, chopped
Iceberg lettuce leaves and bean
sprouts, to serve
Heat 1 tbs oil in a wok over high heat.
Stir-fry half the mushroom for 1 minute
or until just cooked, then remove and
set aside. Repeat with another 1 tbs oil
and the remaining mushroom.
Add remaining 1 tbs oil to the wok
and stir-fry carrot and spring onion for
1-2 minutes until slightly softened.
Add the coriander root, chilli, ginger
and garlic, then stir-fry for a further
1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add fish
sauce and kecap manis and stir-fry
for 1-2 minutes, then return the mushroom
to the wok and toss to coat.
Stir through half the peanuts and
coriander leaves. Serve in lettuce
cups sprinkled with bean sprouts and
remaining peanuts and coriander leaves.
* Kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy
sauce) is available from selected
supermarkets and Asian grocers.
delicious. 79
meatballs with risoniServes 4
600g Italian pork sausages
2 tbs olive oil
75g pancetta, chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
400g risoni or orzo pasta
400g can chopped tomatoes
1 tbs tomato paste
1 cup (250ml) red wine
Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
and grated parmesan, to serve
Squeeze the meat from the sausage
skins, discarding the skins. Roll sausage
meat into 20 walnut-sized balls.
Heat oil in a deep frypan over medium
heat and cook the meatballs, turning, for
3-4 minutes until golden. Remove and set
aside. Add pancetta to the pan and cook
for 2-3 minutes until slightly crisp, then
add the onion and garlic, and cook for
a further 2-3 minutes until slightly
softened. Add risoni and stir to coat, then
add the chopped tomatoes, tomato
paste, wine and 2 cups (500ml) hot water.
Season and bring to a simmer, stirring,
then return the meatballs to the pan.
Reduce heat to low and cook for a final
10 minutes or until the risoni is cooked
and liquid has absorbed.
Divide among bowls and scatter with
chopped parsley and parmesan to serve.
daily special.
spanish-stylechorizo & pipi soupServes 4
1 tbs olive oil
25g unsalted butter
1 leek (pale part only), halved
lengthways, sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
110g chorizo, halved lengthways, sliced
330ml bottle apple cider
400g can cannellini beans,
rinsed, drained
1L (4 cups) good-quality fish
or chicken stock
2 tbs plain flour
1kg fresh pipis* or clams (vongole)1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream1/2 bunch chives, chopped or
1 baguette, sliced and toasted
Heat oil and butter in a large saucepan
over medium heat. Add the leek and cook,
stirring, for 5-6 minutes until softened.
Add garlic and chorizo, and cook, stirring
occasionally, for a further 2-3 minutes until
fragrant. Add the cider, beans and fish
stock, then bring to a simmer.
Dissolve the flour in 1/3 cup (80ml)
hot water and add to the pan, stirring
to combine. Add the pipis to the pan and
cook, covered, for 2-3 minutes until they
open. Add the cream, season and stir
until combined. Remove from heat and
divide among bowls. Scatter with chives
and serve with toasted baguette.
* Pipis are available from fishmongers.
daily special.
delicious. 81
baked lamb schnitzelwith celeriac slawServes 4
4 x 150g lamb rump steaks,
fat trimmed
1 cup (50g) panko breadcrumbs*
1 tbs finely chopped rosemary
40g parmesan, finely grated
2 eggs, lightly beaten1/4 cup (35g) plain flour, seasoned
100g green beans, blanched,
sliced in half lengthways
1 celeriac*, trimmed, peeled,
sliced into matchsticks
1 cup baby spinach, thinly sliced1/4 cup (75g) aioli
Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus wedges to serve
Preheat oven to 225ºC. Place the lamb
between 2 pieces of plastic wrap and
flatten with a rolling pin until 1.5cm thick.
Combine panko, rosemary and parmesan
in a bowl. Place eggs in a second bowl and
flour in a third bowl. Dust lamb in the flour,
then dip in the egg and coat in the crumbs.
Place on a baking paper-lined baking tray.
Bake, turning halfway, for 20 minutes
or until golden and cooked through.
Meanwhile to make the slaw, combine
the beans, celeriac, spinach, aioli and
lemon juice in a bowl. Season and serve
with the schnitzel and lemon wedges.
* Panko are coarse Japanese
breadcrumbs from supermarkets.
Celeriac is a root vegetable available in
the cooler months from greengrocers.
82 delicious.
daily special.
green harissa chickenwith baked couscousServes 4
2 long green chillies, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 lemon, zest finely grated,
lemon cut into wedges
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil1/2 bunch coriander
4 chicken thigh fillets,
(skin on, bone in)
11/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock
11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous
400g pumpkin, cut into 1cm pieces
To make the harissa, place the chilli, garlic,
lemon zest, 1/2 tsp each ground coriander
and cumin, 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil and
the coriander in a small food processor.
Season with salt and pulse until smooth.
Rub half the harissa over the chicken and
set aside for 30 minutes to marinate.
Preheat oven to 200ºC. Place stock in
a flame-proof roasting pan over medium
heat. Bring to a simmer then remove from
heat and stir in the couscous. Set aside for
5 minutes for liquid to absorb, then fluff
with a fork. Add the pumpkin, 1 tbs oil and
remaining 1/2 tsp each ground cumin and
coriander. Season and toss to combine.
Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in a frypan over
medium heat and cook chicken, skin-side
down, for 3-4 minutes until slightly golden.
Place chicken, skin-side up, on top of the
couscous with the lemon wedges and bake
for 30-35 minutes until chicken is cooked
through, pumpkin is tender and couscous
is golden. Squeeze over roasted lemons
and serve with remaining harissa.
rolled pork belly withapple & raisin stuffingServes 4
1/2 apple, peeled, cored, chopped1/4 cup (40g) raisins, chopped
2 fennel bulbs, stalks finely chopped,
bulb sliced lengthways
1 tsp sweet paprika
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1kg boneless pork belly, skin scored
1 tbs brown sugar
6 carrots, halved lengthways
1 tbs plain flour
11/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock
Preheat oven to 225ºC. To make the
stuffing, combine apple, raisins, fennel
stalks, paprika, garlic and 1 tbs oil. Season.
Place pork belly on the bench. Use
a sharp knife to remove one third of the
pork skin from the short side of the belly.
Turn the belly over and place the stuffing
along the skinless end. Roll pork belly
tightly and tie with kitchen string. Pat the
skin dry and rub with salt. Place on a wire
rack set in a roasting pan filled with 1cm
water. Roast for 30 minutes or until the fat
turns golden. Reduce oven to 150ºC and
roast for a further 1 hour.
Combine fennel bulb and carrot in
a bowl with sugar and remaining 2 tbs oil,
then season and toss to combine. Add
to the rack and roast, topping up water
if necessary, for 1 hour. Increase heat
to 225ºC and roast for a final 10 minutes
or until pork is tender and skin is puffed
and golden. Transfer pork and vegetables
to a platter and rest for 10 minutes.
Skim excess fat from pan juices and
place pan over medium-high heat. Add
flour and cook, scraping pan, for 2 minutes,
then add stock and cook for 2-3 minutes
until thickened. Season gravy, strain and
serve with sliced pork and vegetables. d.
84 delicious.
In their second book, The Feast Goes On, Sydney’s Monday Morning Cooking Club share treasured
family recipes from Jewish home cooks brought to Australia from all corners of the globe.
exclusive extract.
Claypot snapper
with burghul pilaf
WHENSIXWOMEN from Sydney’s Jewish community
beganmeeting up to cook together everyMondaymorning
to keep alive heirloom family dishes, little did they know
that their vision to tell the story of their heritage through
food while raising money for charity would take them so far.
The not-for-profit group, which started in 2006 and includes
Lisa Goldberg, Natanya Eskin, Merelyn Chalmers, Lauren
Fink, Paula Horwitz and Jacqui Israel, realised their dream
in 2011 with their first bookMondayMorning Cooking Club.
Their latest book, The Feast Goes On, is a collection of
treasured recipes from Jewish families from all corners of
the globe, from theMiddle East to Europe and even Asia,
eager to tell their story through food. “We felt privileged to
have a glimpse into the food that graces tables each night
and on the Friday night Shabbat dinner and festivals,” says
Lisa who hosts the group in her kitchen. “Choosing recipes
was a difficult job – culling was hard as we were emotionally
attached to the cooks as well as the dishes.” The result is a
beautiful book of heirloom recipes and the stories behind
them.Visit: mondaymorningcookingclub.com.au.
“IWAS FIVE YEARS old when we
emigrated from Turkey. My mother worked
very hard to make a new life in Australia
and to put a cooked meal on the table
every night. Growing up there was always
something soaking – maybe lentils or
beans, and this inspired my love of cooking
legumes in many traditional Turkish dishes.
I am always experimenting and finding the
flavours and smells that were part of my
childhood home.” Ata Gokyildrim
claypot snapperwith burghul pilafServes 4
You will need a claypot or a large,
shallow ceramic baking dish.
4 large (about 750g in total) skinless
snapper fillets
Ata’s spice mix – 1 tsp each ground cumin,
sweet paprika, hot paprika, ground
turmeric, baharat (aromatic Middle
Eastern spice blend) and ground chilli
50g softened unsalted butter,
chopped
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves,
roughly chopped
1 lemon, thinly sliced
1 tbs olive oil
Burghul pilaf
30g unsalted butter
1/4 cup (40g) crushed Turkish soup
noodles* (see Shopping list, p 88)
or crushed fine egg vermicelli
11/4 cups (200g) burghul (cracked wheat)
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley leaves,
roughly chopped
Toss the fish fillets with the spice mix,
butter and three-quarters of the chopped
parsley to coat, then place in a claypot
or large, shallow ovenproof dish. Set
aside to marinate at room temperature
for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 210°C.
Season the fish generously with sea salt,
top with the lemon slices and drizzle with
olive oil. Cover with foil or a lid and roast
for 20 minutes. Uncover, then return to
the oven for 5 minutes or until the fish
is just cooked through.
Meanwhile, for the burghul pilaf,
melt the butter in a frypan over medium
heat. Add the noodles and stir to
combine. Add the burghul and cook for
a further 1 minute, then add 1 cup (250ml)
hot water. Cover with a lid, reduce heat
to low and cook for 5 minutes or until the
burghul softens and the water is absorbed.
Add another 1/2 cup (125ml) hot water, stir
to combine, cover with the lid and cook
for 2 minutes or until the water is absorbed
(if the burghul is not tender once all the
water has been absorbed, add a little
more water and steam until just cooked.)
Stir the parsley through the burghul
and season with salt.
Garnish the fish with the remaining
parsley leaves and serve straight from
the claypot with the burghul pilaf.
“We felt privileged to have a glimpse into the food that
graces tables for the Friday night Shabbat dinner.”
RECIPESMONDAYMORNIN
GCOOKIN
GCLUB,ATA
GOKYILDRIM
,REUBEN
SOLOMON,M
IRICOLLIS,
COLETTELEVY&
ESTHERWAKERMAN
PHOTOGRAPHYALAN
BENSON
STYLING
DAVID
MORGAN
exclusive extract.exclusive extract.
REUBEN SOLOMON, from Rangoon,
Burma, and his wife, well-known Sri
Lankan food writer Charmaine, migrated
to Australia in 1959. They both loved the
exotic food that they left behind, but
since Sydney in the late 1950s offered no
similar options, they learned to cook it for
themselves. Reuben faithfully recreated his
much-loved Burmese dishes and this
‘chicken Everest’ became a staple after he
created it for a cooking competition.
chicken everestServes 4-6
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp finely grated ginger
11/2 tbs curry powder
1 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp salt1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp garam masala (Indian spice mix)
2 tbs lemon juice
10 fresh curry leaves
2 tsp light soy sauce
2 tbs sunflower oil
2 tbs ground rice*
(see Shopping list, p 88)
3 spring onions, chopped
Small handful coriander leaves
1.5kg whole chicken
Saffron pilaf, to serve
Combine all the ingredients, except
the chicken and saffron pilaf, in a food
processor and whiz to a paste. Add a
little warm water, if necessary, until
a spreading consistency.
Carefully run your hand under the skin
of the chicken breast and thighs, being
careful not to tear the skin, then rub
some of the paste onto the breast under
the skin, then rub the remaining paste
over the skin and into the cavity. Cover
and chill for at least 1 hour to marinate.
Preheat the oven to 170°C. Place the
chicken in an oiled roasting pan and
roast for 11/4 hours or until golden and
the juices run clear when the thigh is
pierced with a skewer. Cover with foil
if browning too quickly. Remove from
the oven and rest, loosely covered with
foil, for 15 minutes.
Serve warm or cooled with pilaf.
delicious. 87
“I WAS BORN IN ISRAEL to a
Moroccan family and I remember coming
home from school to find my parents in
the kitchen preparing for Shabbat.
Growing up we often had similar slow-
cooked aromatic dishes for Shabbat
lunch. This recipe reminds me of my
grandmother coming to our place in the
afternoon to help my mother. The dish
would slow-cook all night and the smell in
the house on Shabbat morning was so
warm and wonderful.”Miri Collis
slow-cooked beefwith ras el hanoutServes 4-6
1kg chuck steak, trimmed,
cut into 2.5cm pieces
2 small onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbs olive oil
2 tsp ras el hanout spice mix
(recipe follows) or use store-bought
2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1/4 tsp each sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
4 tomatoes
11/2 preserved lemon quarters
2 tsp honey
1 bunch coriander, roughly chopped
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly
chopped
Preheat the oven to 140°C.
Place the beef in a deep casserole dish.
Add the onion, garlic, oil, ras el hanout,
chilli, salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
Halve the tomatoes widthways, and
squeeze to remove seeds and discard.
Coarsely grate the tomatoes down
to the skin, straight into the casserole,
discarding the skins. Rinse the preserved
lemon, remove the pulp and white pith
and finely chop the rind. Add to the beef
with the honey and a small handful each
of the chopped coriander and parsley.
Stir well, cover and cook in the oven
for at least 31/2 hours or until the meat is
tender. The juice from the meat should
keep the dish moist, but check after
11/2 hours of cooking and add a little
extra water if necessary.
When the meat is cooked through and
very tender, transfer to a serving dish,
scatter over remaining herbs and serve.
ras el hanoutMakes 60g
1/2 tsp each ground cloves
and cayenne pepper
2 tsp each ground allspice, ground
cumin, ground ginger, ground
turmeric, freshly ground black pepper
and ground cardamom
3 tsp each ground cinnamon
and ground coriander
11/2 tbs freshly grated nutmeg
Combine all the spices in a jar. Seal and
shake well. Store in a cool dark place.
“This recipe reminds me of my grandmother
coming to our place to help mymother.”
Slow-cooked beef
with ras el hanout
88 delicious.
THEMIDDLE EASTERN GROCERTurkish soup noodles, traditionalegg noodles; substitute vermicelli.
Ground rice, coarse flourmadefromwhite rice.
THE SUPERMARKET‘00’ flour, super fine Italian flour.
THE DELI OR GOURMET SHOPFresh yeast, highly perishableand should be stored in therefrigerator. Available in packs,it should be firm and moist.Use within 2 weeks.
exclusive extract.
Basboussa
exclusive extract.
Using an electric mixer fitted with
a dough hook, or by hand, knead for
10-15 minutes, adding a little more flour
and milk or water if necessary to form a
smooth elastic dough that comes away
from the side of the bowl.
Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with
a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm
place for 2 hours or until well risen.
Meanwhile, for the filling, place all the
filling ingredients in a bowl and mix with
a wooden spoon until well combined and
the consistency of a creamy icing.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease
a 32 x 22cm rectangular baking pan.
When the dough has risen, divide it
into three balls. Each ball will make one
cugloaf. Working individually, knead a
ball on a well-floured board, then roll
out until it is very thin and shape into
a 40cm-long rectangle.
Spread one-third of the chocolate
filling right to the edge, completely
covering the dough. Turn over the edge
the whole way around to make a 1cm
border, then, starting at the side closest
to you, roll up the pastry to make a long
sausage or strudel shape. Place in the
prepared pan, seam side down. Repeat
with the other balls of dough and the
remaining filling, laying them close
together in the pan so the logs touch
each other. Cover the pan with a clean
tea towel and set aside for a further
30 minutes to rise.
Lightly beat the remaining egg, then
brush the logs with the egg wash and
bake for 40 minutes or until a dark
golden and cooked through. Leave to
cool, then separate the logs. The cugloafs
can be served one at a time. d.
“GROWINGUP INCAIRO was glorious.
There were family meals, always prepared
by my mother and I loved the comforting
smell of all the spices in her kitchen. I have
been making this basboussa recipe for
nearly 40 years and today I enjoy making
it for my grandchildren as a treat. I love
the sweet syrupy flavour and the crunch
of the almonds.” Colette Levy
basboussa (semolina syrup cake)Makes 25 pieces
2 cups (360g) fine semolina
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
21/4 tsp baking powder
250g unsalted butter, melted
1/4 tsp vanilla sugar
1 cup (250ml) milk
25 blanched almonds
Sugar syrup
2 cups (440g) caster sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
Combine semolina, sugar, baking powder,
butter, vanilla sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml)
milk in a bowl. Set mixture aside at room
temperature for 30 minutes to absorb.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and
line the base and sides of a 27cm x 18cm
rectangular baking pan with baking
paper, leaving plenty overhanging the
sides (this will ensure the basboussa is
easy to remove).
Add the remaining 1/2 cup (125ml) milk
to semolina mixture and stir to combine.
Pour into the prepared pan, then bake
for 20-25 minutes until just golden on
top and slightly set.
Meanwhile, combine all the sugar syrup
ingredients together in a saucepan with
1 cup (250ml) water and simmer until
the sugar dissolves. Cook for a further
5-7 minutes until the liquid has thickened.
Set aside to cool.
Remove basboussa from the oven and
make diagonal cuts from corner to corner,
spaced 3-4cm apart, to create diamond
shapes. Press an almond, pointy side up,
into each diamond. Return to the oven
and bake for a further 20 minutes or until
golden. Remove from the oven and spoon
the cooled syrup over the hot basboussa,
then return to the oven for a further
10 minutes. Turn the oven off, leaving the
basboussa inside for a further 30 minutes
to rest and cool slightly.
Remove from the pan and cut into the
scored diamonds to serve. Store in an
airtight container for up to 3 weeks.
“MYMOTHER SHARI’S Hungarian/
Romanian cooking was known throughout
the community, especially her amazing
cugloaf. It became a tradition in our family
to break the Yom Kippur fast with cugloaf
at Nanna Shari’s place and, since my
parents passed away, we have continued
this tradition at our home – our children
love it so much. It is so satisfying to see
my family enjoying it with such relish,
and I always feel my mother is looking
down and smiling.” Esther Wakerman
shari’s cugloafMakes 3 loafs
500g ‘00’ flour* (see Shopping list, p 88),
plus extra to dust
35g fresh yeast* (see Shopping list, p 88)
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
120ml milk
2 eggs
150g sour cream
1 tbs sunflower oil
Chocolate filling
375g softened unsalted butter
3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar
300g drinking chocolate
Place the flour in a large bowl and make
a well in the centre. Crumble the yeast
into the well and sprinkle 1 tbs caster
sugar on top. Warm 100ml milk and pour
half over the yeast mixture. Set aside for
5 minutes or until the yeast starts to froth,
then pour over remaining warm milk and
set aside for a further 10 minutes or until
it froths again.
Break one egg into the well and add
the sour cream, oil, 1 tsp salt, 11/2 tbs hot
water and remaining caster sugar and
1 tbs milk. Mix until it forms a sticky dough.
90 delicious.
The Feast
Goes On
by Monday
Morning
Cooking
Club
(Harper
Collins
Australia,
$49.95),
is out now.
CHICKEN
EVEREST(P
87)REPRODUCED
WITHPERMISSIO
NFROM
CHARMAIN
ESOLO
MON’SCOMPLETEASIANCOOKBOOK,HARDIE
GRANT1976,
COMPLE
TELY
REVISED
AND
UPDATED
2011.SLO
W-C
OOKED
BEEFWITHRASELHANOUT(P
88)ADAPTED
AND
REPRODUCED
WITHPERMISSIO
NFROM
THERECIPE‘SLO
WCOOKED
BEEFWITHHERBS’IN
THEFOODOFMOROCCO
BYTESSMALLOS,MURDOCHBOOKS2008.
Shari’s cugloaf
Whether you’re following a gluten-free diet or simply want toexplore the vast world of wholegrains, cereals and seeds, there’splenty of inspiration to be found online. We’ve collected creativegluten-free baking ideas from some of the best wholefood bloggers– from a US-based Basque food stylist to a Canadian green-thumb.
Grain exchange
My Darling
Lemon Thyme’s
flourless chocolate
& cardamom cake
(recipe p 96). Below
centre: Eleanor Ozich
of Petite Kitchen.
92 delicious.
hot blogs.
Cannelle et Vanille’s
roast beetroot,
caramelised onion
and goat’s cheese tarts
94 delicious.
hot blogs.
THE FIRST MESS
Vegetable gardener Laura Wright’s
home is nestled between a peach
orchard and a vineyard in southern
Ontario, Canada, where she develops,
photographs and shares vibrant,
wholefood recipes on her blog. She’s
spent time in restaurants and at culinary
school, but created her vegetarian
blog to inspire people to cook healthy,
nourishing food at home. Laura’s
passion for natural foods, eating
seasonally and sharing wholesome
meals with the important people
in her life is evident in every post.
Visit: thefirstmess.com.
vegan banana breadgranola barsMakes 16 bars
Store in an airtight container for 1 week.
3 overripe bananas
1/4 cup (70g) nut butter* (we used
almond – see Shopping list, p 96)
1/4 cup (60ml) brown rice syrup*
(see Shopping list, p 96)
2 tbs maple syrup
1 tbs extra virgin coconut oil*
(see Shopping list, p 96),
plus extra to grease
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3 cups (270g) rolled oats (make
sure they’re certified gluten-free)
11/4 cup (150g) chopped, toasted,
mixed nuts and seeds (we used
walnuts, hazelnuts and black
sesame seeds)
1/2 cup (95g) dairy-free chocolate
chips* (see Shopping list, p 96)
Chocolate drizzle1/2 cup (90g) dairy-free chocolate
chips* (see Shopping list, p 96)
1 tbs each almond milk and extra virgin
coconut oil* (see Shopping list, p 96)
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease
a 20cm × 30cm lamington pan with
coconut oil and line with baking paper,
leaving plenty overhanging the sides.
Place the bananas, nut butter, brown
rice syrup, maple syrup, coconut oil,
cinnamon and 1/2 tsp salt in a food
processor, and whiz to combine.
In a large bowl, combine the oats,
chopped nuts, seeds and chocolate
chips, then stir to combine. Add the
banana mixture and stir to combine.
Transfer the mixture to the prepared
pan. Smooth the surface and press
down to compact. Bake for 40 minutes
or until golden. Remove from the oven
and allow to cool completely. Cut into
16 rectangles.
For the chocolate drizzle, combine the
ingredients in a heatproof bowl set over
a saucepan of simmering water (don’t
let the bowl touch the water), stirring
constantly, until melted and combined.
Drizzle the melted chocolate mixture
over granola bars. Transfer to the fridge
for 30 minutes or until firm.
CANNELLE ET VANILLE
A Basque expat living in Florida,
Aran Goyoaga is a food writer, stylist,
photographer and mother of two. After
discovering she had a gluten intolerance,
she adopted a strict gluten-free diet and
her blog offers an insight into her world
of gluten-free cooking, often reminiscing
about the flavours of her childhood
alongside inspiring imagery. The blog’s
name, ‘cinnamon and vanilla’ in French,
is a homage to her upbringing and the
familiar aromas of her grandparents’
patisserie. Visit: cannelletvanille.com.
roast beetroot, caramelisedonion and goat’s cheese tartsMakes 4
3 heirloom beetroots* (see Shopping
list, p 96) or regular beetroots
2 tbs olive oil
1 onion, sliced
2 eggs
1/2 cup (125ml) milk
1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk
2 tbs finely grated parmesan
1 tbs cornstarch
60g goat’s cheese, crumbled
Gluten-free pastry1/2 cup (100g) superfine brown rice
flour* (see Shopping list, p 96)
1/3 cup (55g) quinoa flour*
(see Shopping list, p 96)
1/3 cup (55g) almond meal
2 tbs each potato starch and
arrowroot* (see Shopping list, p 96)
110g chilled unsalted butter,
chopped
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Wrap
each beetroot in a piece of foil, place
on a baking tray and bake for 45 minutes
or until tender. Set aside to cool, then,
when cool enough to handle, peel and
slice into thin wedges.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a frypan over
medium heat. Cook the onion with1/2 tsp salt for 8 minutes or until onion
is tender and caramelised. Set aside.
For the pastry, whiz the brown
rice flour, quinoa flour, almond meal,
potato starch, arrowroot, 1/2 tsp salt
and 1/4 tsp pepper in a food processor
until combined. Add the butter,
and pulse until finely chopped. Add
2 tbs cold water and pulse until dough
comes together. Shape into a disk,
enclose in plastic wrap and chill for
30 minutes to firm up.
Roll out pastry between 2 sheets of
baking paper until 4mm thick. Transfer
to a baking tray and return to the fridge
for 15 minutes.
Reduce the oven to 190°C. Grease
four 12cm loose-bottomed tart pans
and line with pastry. Prick pastry bases
with a fork, then line with baking paper
and fill with pastry weights. Bake for
15 minutes, then remove the paper
and weights, and return to the oven
for a further 5 minutes or until golden.
The First Mess’ vegan
banana bread granola
bars by Laura Wright
(left). Bottom (from
left): Aran Goyoaga
of Cannelle et Vanille
and her roast
beetroot, caramelised
onion and goat’s
cheese tarts.
96 delicious.
hot blogs.
Scatter the onion and beetroot over
the tart shells.
Whisk the eggs, milk, coconut milk,
parmesan and cornstarch together
in a bowl. Pour into the tart shells,
and top with goat’s cheese. Bake for
25 minutes or until golden and set.
PETITE KITCHEN
It all started when Eleanor Ozich’s
four-year old daughter Izabella
developed a serious health condition,
and as remedy, the New Zealand
family cut out all gluten, sugar and
preservatives from their diet, swapping
them for simple, unprocessed foods.
Petite Kitchen documents Eleanor’s
journey back to basics through
beautiful photography and her healthy
and experimental recipes that are
mostly grain-free. Her first book,
My Petite Kitchen Cookbook (Murdoch
books, $39.99) has just been released.
Visit: petite-kitchen.com.
cheddar & quinoa muffins withsundried tomatoes and basilMakes 8
3/4 cup (150g) quinoa, rinsed, drained
11/2 cups (375ml) vegetable stock
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup (120g) grated cheddar cheese
1 cup basil leaves,
roughly chopped
1/4 cup (40g) finely chopped
sundried tomatoes
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease
8 holes of a muffin pan.
Place the quinoa in a saucepan with
stock and bring to the boil over high
heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and
simmer for 12-15 minutes until liquid is
absorbed. Fluff up quinoa with a fork
and set aside for 10 minutes to cool.
Transfer quinoa to a bowl with the
remaining ingredients. Season and
mix well to combine.
Divide the mixture among muffin
holes and bake for 25 minutes or until
a skewer inserted into the centre of
a muffin comes out clean. Transfer
to a wire rack to cool.
MY DARLING LEMON THYME
Perth-based New Zealander Emma
Galloway discovered that her family
suffered from gluten and lactose
intolerances. With her chef background,
she became committed to creating
vegetarian, gluten-free dishes for her
family using fresh, seasonal flavours
that she shares with the world through
her blog. “This flourless cake is light
and almost mousse-like at room
temperature, but chill it in the fridge if
you like it dense and fudgy.” Her debut
book,My Darling Lemon Thyme: Recipes
From My Real Food Kitchen (Harper
Collins, $39.99) has just been released.
Visit: mydarlinglemonthyme.com.
flourless chocolate& cardamom cakeServes 10-12
Store in an airtight container
in the fridge for up to 5 days.
250g dark chocolate, roughly chopped
125g unsalted butter, chopped
1/4 cup (60ml) espresso, cooled,
or orange juice
4 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
2 tbs cocoa powder, sifted
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
Whipped cream, halved strawberries
and icing sugar, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease
and line the base and side of
a 21cm springform cake pan.
Place the chocolate, butter and coffee
in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan
of simmering water (don’t let the bowl
touch the water), stirring, until smooth.
Set aside to cool.
Beat yolks and 1/4 cup (55g) caster
sugar with electric beaters for 4 minutes
or until thick and pale. Fold in cocoa,
cardamom and chocolate mixture.
In a clean bowl, beat eggwhites with
electric beaters until stiff peaks form.
Gradually beat in remaining 1/4 cup
(55g) caster sugar until thick and glossy.
Fold one-third of the eggwhite
mixture into the chocolate mixture
to loosen, then fold through remaining
eggwhite until just combined. Transfer
batter to the cake pan and bake for
35 minutes or until puffed with a slight
wobble in the centre. Remove from oven
and set aside for 10 minutes, allowing
the cake to deflate slightly as it cools.
Release the side of the pan and set
aside to cool completely.
Serve at room temperature or chill
for 2 hours for a fudge-like consistency.
Serve topped with cream, strawberries
and dusted with icing sugar. d.
THE HEALTH FOOD SHOPNut butter, try cooking withmacadamia or ABC (almond,brazil nut and cashew).
Brown rice syrup, or ricemalt,a sweetener derived fromcooked brown rice.
Extra virgin coconut oil,available in jars. Can solidifyat colder temperatures.
Dairy-free chocolate chips,have nomilk solids, usuallymade using pure cocoa butter.
Brown rice flour, quinoa flour,potato starch and arrowroot,gluten-free alternativesto wheat flour.
THE GREENGROCERHeirloom beetroot, availablein a variety of colours, fromyellow to pink and striped.
CHEDDAR&QUIN
OAMUFFIN
SWITHSUNDRIED
TOMATOESAND
BASIL
RECIPEAND
IMAGEFROMMYPETITEKITCHENCOOKBOOKBY
ELE
ANOROZICH(M
URDOCHBOOKS2013,$39.99).FLO
URLE
SSCHOCOLA
TE&CARDAMOM
CAKEADAPTED
AND
REPRODUCED
WITH
PERMISSIO
NFROMMYDARLINGLEMONTHYME:RECIPESFROMMYREALFOODKITCHEN
BYEMMAGALLOWAY(HARPERCOLLIN
S2014,$39.99).
Clockwise (from top left): cheddar & quinoa muffins
with sundried tomatoes and basil; Eleanor Ozich
of Petite Kitchen; flourless chocolate & cardamom
cake; Emma Galloway of My Darling Lemon Thyme.
delicious. WOOLWORTHS ADVERTISING FEATURE
KillerMexican barbecued cornServes 4
4 corn cobs, husks removed
30ml olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
30g parmesan, finely grated
Sweet smoked paprika, to sprinkle
1 lime, cut into wedges
Place the corn cobs in a large pan of salted
water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for
about 15 minutes or until cooked through.
Drain in a colander and allow to steam dry.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to high
and brush the corn with a little oil and season
with salt and pepper. Cook corn, turning the
cobs, until lightly toasted all over.
Meanwhile, spread the grated cheese out on
a tray or plate. Sprinkle the grilled corn with
paprika, then roll in the cheese. Serve with lime
wedges to squeeze over.
“Down-to-earth sidesare an easyway to puta fresh contemporaryspin on traditionalEaster fare. Try thisrecipe with juicy sweetcorn fromWoolworths.”
Take a fresh approach this EasterDelicious, down-to-earth sides, like this killer Mexican barbecued
corn, are an easy way to put a fresh spin on traditional Easter
fare. Whether you’re planning on entertaining a crowd or simply
creating a chocolate egg hunt for the kids, Woolworths has all
the inspiration you need to make this Easter special.
For more Easter inspiration, visit: woolworths.com.au/easter
EasterbrillianceEaster entertaining is made easy
with Jamie Oliver’s fast, fun and
fresh side dishes that are sure
to please a crowd.
NEWSLIFEMEDIA
CREATIVESERVICES.IM
AGEANDRECIPE:©2013,JAMIE
OLIVERENTERPRISESLIM
ITED(JAMIEOLIVER.COM).PHOTOGRAPHY:DAVID
LOFTUS.
99
JAMIE’S AUTUMN MENU MAKEOVER, PLUS BRILLIANT TARTS AND DESSERTS
100
Here we are in May, on the cusp of thecooler weather really setting in,when we're beginning to choosewarming, soul-affirming comfortfood. But with fresh autmnal
produce still at our fingertips, I've put togethera selection of recipes that make me feel niceand cosy but still celebrate late-season veg –adding lightness as well as crunch and colour.In a nod to my early Naked Chef days, we have
wonderful pork packed with an apricot stuffingand wrapped in prosciutto, which I love to serveon properly-done polenta.There’s tender chickenin wine that’s all about deep flavour, livenedup with the classic French combo of fine herbsand grapes. Enjoy it with fresh bread to mopup those lovely roasting juices.If you like a bit of spice, I’ve also done a cracking
warm chilli squid salad with fennel and pancetta– a killer combo, plus a gorgeous roastedcauliflower curry with knock-your-socks-offflavour. All of these dishes I love, and make forthe family a lot of the time.They’re easy to throwtogether and total crowdpleasers. I hope you enjoythem as much as I do.
Jamie shares some of his favourite things to eat right
now – tasty dishes for the change of season.
WINE-BRAISED CHICKENWITH ROASTED GRAPESServes 4
• Olive oil
• 1.5kgwhole chicken,
jointed into 8 pieces
• 4 onions, cut intowedges
• 4 carrots, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves,
finely chopped
• ½bunch of rosemary,
leaves picked and chopped
• 1 heaped tbs plain flour
• 300mlwhitewine
• 200ml chicken stock
• 600g potatoes, peeled,
roughly chopped
• 2 handfuls red and
green grapes
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves,
to serve
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Heat
a glug of oil in a large saucepan
overmediumheat. Season the chicken
and cook, in batches, until golden all
over. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
2Add the onion, carrot and garlic
to the pan and gently cook over
medium-low heat for 15minutes or
until soft and sticky but not coloured.
3Return the chicken to the pan along
with the rosemary and flour. Increase
the heat tomedium–high and leave
to colour for a fewminutes.
4 Pour in thewine and bring to the boil,
then reduce heat to a simmer and let
it reduce by half. Add the stock and
potatoes, and bring it back to the boil.
5Transfer everything to a roasting pan
and place in the oven for 30minutes or
until the potatoes are tender and the
chicken is falling off the bone.
6 Place the grapes in a separate
roasting pan, drizzlewith a little oil
and roast for 20minutes or until
blistered and caramelised.
7Add the grapes to the chicken and
gently stir to combine. Scatter over
the parsley to serve. RecipesJamie
Oliver
StylingGeorg
inaHayden
Photo
graphyDavid
Loftus
WINE-BRAISED CHICKENWITH ROASTED GRAPES
FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS
WITH PICKLED CABBAGE
103
FRIED CHICKEN LIVERSWITH PICKLED CABBAGECrumbing and frying livers gives
theman extra dimension of texture.
Just be careful not to fry them for too
long – youwant that lovely pink
rosiness in themiddle.
Serves 6–8 as a starter
• 400g chicken livers,
trimmed of sinew and halved
• Olive oil
• 100g plain flour
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 cups (140g) fresh breadcrumbs
• Splash ofmilk
• Cube of bread (to test the oil)
• Lemonwedges, to serve
Pickled cabbage
• ½ large red cabbage,
finely shredded
• ⅓ cup (80ml) sherry vinegar
• ¼ cup chopped tarragon
1 Place the livers in a bowl and cover
with coldwater. Leave to one sidewhile
you crack onwith the rest.
2 For the pickled cabbage, place the
cabbage and vinegar in a bowl, season
well and scrunch everything together
with your hands towork in the flavours.
Stir through the tarragon and set aside.
3 Pour enough olive oil into a large
saucepan to cover the base by about
2cm. Place it overmediumheat and
let the oil get hot.
4 Set up three bowls – place the flour in
one, the beaten egg in another and the
breadcrumbs in the third. Season the
flourwith salt and pepper andwhisk
a splash ofmilk into the eggs.
5Drain the livers, then dip each one into
the flour, shaking off any excess, then
dip in the egg, letting any extra drip off,
then coat in the breadcrumbs.
6Drop the cube of bread into the
hot oil. When it turns golden in
20 seconds, the oil is ready. Fry the
livers for 1½–2½minutes until golden
and cooked to your liking. Drain on
paper towel.
7 Serve the liverswith the pickled
cabbage and lemonwedges on the
side to squeeze over.
CAULIFLOWERTIKKA MASALAServes 4
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• 3 long red chillies
• 2 garlic cloves,
peeled
• 2 tsp garammasala
• 1 tbs sweet smoked paprika
(pimenton)
• 8cm piece ginger
• Bunch coriander
• 75g flaked almonds
• 2 tbs tomato paste
• Sunflower oil
• 2 onions,
thinly sliced
• 400ml can low-fat coconutmilk
• 400g can chopped tomatoes
• 1 large head cauliflower
• Cooked basmati rice,
to serve
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Toast the
cumin and coriander seeds in a small,
dry frypan until aromatic, then pop
them in a food processor.
2Add 2 chillies to the food processor,
alongwith the garlic, garammasala,
paprika, half the ginger andmost of
the coriander and almonds (saving
some to serve), thenwhiz to a smooth
paste. Add the tomato paste, season
well and pulse to combine.
3 Thinly slice the remaining ginger and
chilli. Place a flameproof casserole over
mediumheat and add a glug of oil. Add
the sliced ginger, chilli and onion. Cook
for 10minutes or until the onion is soft
and sticky but not coloured. Spoon
in the spice paste, reduce the heat to
medium-low and fry for 10minutes.
5 Pour in the coconutmilk and chopped
tomatoeswith 600mlwater. Bring to
the boil, then reduce to a simmer.
6 Pop thewhole cauliflower in the
dish, drizzlewith oil, then transfer
the casserole, lid off, to the oven.
Roast for 1 hour or until the cauliflower
is cooked through and golden.
7 Toast the leftover almonds in a dry
frypan and chop the remaining
coriander. Serve the roasted cauliflower
on a bed of rice, with the toasted
almonds and coriander sprinkled over.
CAULIFLOWER TIKKAMASALA
104
CHILLI CONCERTINASQUID WITH FENNELThiswarm salad of crispy squid,
salty pancetta and zingy lemon and
fennel is awinning combo that packs
a flavour punch.
Serves 4 as a starter
• 6whole squid, skin removed,
cleaned, tentacles removed
but reserved (ask your fishmonger
to do this for you)
• ½ fennel bulb,
fronds reserved
• 1½ lemons
• Olive oil
• 6 pancetta slices,
thinly sliced
• 1 long red chilli,
finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• ½ tsp fennel seeds
1 Preheat the oven to 220°C. To
concertina the squid, place a large
chef’s knife flat inside the hood, then
use a second knife tomake several
slices across the flesh, about 1cm apart.
Having the knife insidewill stop you
cutting right through. Set aside.
2Using amandoline, thinly slice the
fennel bulb and½ lemon. Toss together
in a bowl and set aside.
3 Place an ovenproof frypan over
medium–high heat and add a little
olive oil. Add the sliced pancetta and fry
for 5minutes or until golden and crisp.
4Remove the frypan from the heat
and stir in the chilli and garlic. Squeeze
in the juice of the remaining 1 lemon.
Pour everything into a small bowl,
add a few glugs of olive oil and
stir to combine. Set aside.
5 Crush the fennel seeds using amortar
and pestle, then set aside.
6Return the pan to high heat, add a
splash of oil and fry the squid tentacles
for 1minute. Add the fennel seeds and
the squid and, quickly stir together.
7Transfer the frypan to the preheated
oven. Roast for 3-4minutes until the
squid is cooked through and light
golden in colour.
8Add the squid to the chilli and
pancetta dressing, and toss to coat.
Transfer to a serving plate and top
with the lemon and fennel salad,
then scatter over the reserved fennel
fronds to serve.
PORK WITH PROSCIUTTO& APRICOTSServes 6
• ⅓ cup (70g) dried apricots
• 100ml riesling or otherwhitewine
• Olive oil
• ½bunch sage
• 4 eschalots , finely chopped
• ½ cup (35g) breadcrumbs
• 18 prosciutto slices
• 1.2kg pork tenderloin, trimmed
• 2-3 rosemary sprigs
• 300ml redwine
• Cooked polenta, to serve
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Pop the
apricots in a small saucepanwith the
whitewine. Bring to the boil, remove
fromheat and set aside to cool.
2Heat a glug of oil in a frypan over
mediumheat. Finely chop half the sage
and add it to the pan alongwith the
eschalot. Cook for 10minutes or until
softened. Set aside to cool.
3Drain the apricots (reserving the liquid)
and pop in a food processor.Whiz to
formapaste, then add to the eschalot
mixture alongwith the breadcrumbs and
reserved apricot liquid. Stir to combine.
4 Lay out the prosciutto, overlapping,
so it’s about the same size as the pork,
and scatter over half the remaining sage.
5Using a sharp knife, cut an incision
down the side of the pork (being careful
not to cut all theway through). Spoon
the apricot stuffing into the opening
and pop inmost of the rosemary (saving
some to serve). Wrap up themeat in the
prosciutto and tie securelywith kitchen
string.
6Heat a glug of oil in a flameproof
casserole overmedium–high heat, add
the pork and fry until golden all over.
7 Pour in the redwine, bring to the boil,
then pop the lid on and transfer to the
oven. Cook for 45minutes, removing
the lid after 30minutes or until the pork
is cooked and the prosciutto is crisp.
8Rest themeat, loosely coveredwith
foil, for 10minutes, then slice and serve
with polenta and reserved rosemary
and sage, drizzledwith the pan juices.
CHILLI CONCERTINA SQUIDWITH FENNEL
PORKWITH PROSCIUTTO&APRICOTS
106
Crisp pastry bases toppedwith luscious fillings
make for a divine combination – these tarts and
desserts areworth letting your halo slip for...Recipes&stylingCharlie
Clapp
Photo
graphyLaura
Edward
s
LATTICED TREACLE& PECAN TART
108
ULTIMATE CHOCOLATE
&RASPBERRY TART
LATTICED TREACLE& PECAN TARTServes 10
• 1⅔cup (250g) plain flour,
plus extra to dust
• 2 tbs icing sugar
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• 175g chilled unsalted butter,
chopped
• 1 egg, lightly beaten,
plus 1 extra egg yolk
Treacle filling
• 600ml golden syrup
• Pinch ground ginger
• 150g fresh breadcrumbs
• ⅓ cup (45g) pecans,
finely ground
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
1Tomake the pastry, place the flour,
icing sugar and lemon zest in the bowl
of a food processorwith a small pinch of
salt. Drop in the butter and pulse until
themixture resembles breadcrumbs.
2Add the egg yolk and 2 tbs coldwater,
then pulse again until it comes together
into a dough. Turn it out onto a lightly
floured surface, and bring it together
with your hands.Wrap in plastic wrap
and chill in the fridge for 20minutes.
3 Cut off a third of the pastry for the
latticed top, coverwith plastic wrap and
return to the fridge. Roll out the large
piece of pastry on a floured surface into
a 30cm circle, about 4mm thick.
4Drape the pastry over your rolling pin,
and lay it across a 23cm fluted tart pan.
Push it into place, making sure it goes
right into the edges. Roll your rolling
pin over the top of the pan to cut off
any excess. Pop in the fridge to chill
for 30minutes.
5Preheat the oven to 190°C. Prick the
pastrywith a fork, line the pastrywith
baking paper and fill with rice or pastry
weights, then bake for 15minutes.
Remove the paper andweights and
return to the oven for 5minutes or
until crisp and golden.
6 For the filling, heat the golden syrup
and ginger in a small saucepan over low
heat. Stir in the breadcrumbs, pecan,
lemon zest and juice and beaten egg
until combined, then pour into the
pastry case.
7Roll out the remaining dough into
a 25cm circle, 2mm thick. Slice into
5mm-wide ribbons, thenweave them
in a lattice pattern over the top of the
tart. Brushwith egg, and bake for
30–35minutes until cooked and golden.
8Remove from theoven and set aside
for 15minutes to cool, then carefully
remove it from thepan and slice –this is
perfect servedwarm from theoven.
ULTIMATE CHOCOLATE& RASPBERRY TARTServes 10
• 1⅓ cups (200g) plain flour,
plus extra to dust
• 25g cocoa
• 25g icing sugar
• 175g chilled unsalted butter,
chopped
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 250g punnet raspberries
Chocolate filling
• 2 cups (500ml) double thick cream
• ⅓cup (75g) caster sugar
• 300g dark chocolate,
broken into squares
• 2 large eggs, beaten
1Tomake the pastry, sift the flour,
cocoa and icing sugar into a food
processor. Add the butter and a pinch
of salt, then pulse until themixture
resembles breadcrumbs.
2Add the egg yolk, vanilla extract and
2 tbs coldwater and pulse again, until
the dough comes together. Tip out onto
a floured surface and bring it together
with your hands. Cover in plastic wrap
and chill for 20minutes.
3Preheat the oven to 200°C. Roll out
the pastry on a flouredwork surface
into a 25cm circle, 4mm thick. Using
your rolling pin, lift the pastry and
SUPER INDULGENT
MIXED BERRYMILLEFEUILLE
SALTED BANOFFEE TRANCHE
111
drape it over a 23cm loose-bottomed
tart pan. Ease it into place, pushing the
pastry right into the corners. Roll your
rolling pin over the top of the pan to
cut off any overhang, and return to
the fridge to chill for 20minutes.
4Prick the pastry basewith a fork, then
line the pastrywith baking paper and
fill with rice or pastryweights. Bake in
oven for 15minutes, then remove the
paper andweights and return to oven
for 5minutes or until crisp and golden.
Allow to cool.
5Meanwhile, for the filling, pop the
cream and caster sugar in a small
saucepan overmediumheat and bring
to the boil. Place the chocolate pieces
in a bowl, pour over the hot cream and
stir until the chocolate hasmelted.
Finally, whisk in the beaten eggs.
6 Scatter half the raspberries into the
cooled tart case, then pour over the
chocolate filling. Return to the oven for
20minutes or until the filling is almost
set but still has a littlewobble in the
centre. Set aside to cool completely,
then ease the tart out of the pan. Top
with remaining raspberries to serve.
SUPER INDULGENTMIXED BERRY MILLEFEUILLELuxuriant cream, crisp pastry, sharp
berries – it’s the best flavour combo.
Well, it would be rude not to share…
Makes 4 stacks
• 10 sheets filo pastry
• 100g unsalted butter, melted
• ½cup (75g) pistachio kernels,
finely chopped
• ⅓cup (50g) icing sugar
• 200g frozenmixed berries
• ¼cup (55g) caster sugar
• 1-2 tbs dessert wine (optional)
• 1 vanilla bean, split,
seeds scraped
• 150gmascarpone
• 150g natural yoghurt
• 150ml double thick cream
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
1Preheat the oven to 180°C and line
two baking trayswith baking paper.
2 Lay a sheet of filo on awork surface
and brushwith a littlemelted butter.
Topwith a thin layer of pistachio, then
a dusting of icing sugar. Lay another
sheet of filo on top and repeatwith
the butter, pistachio and icing sugar.
Repeat this twomore times, then finish
with a sheet of filo and a brush of
butter. Transfer the filo stack to a lined
baking tray and, using a sharp knife,
slice into 6 rectangles.
3Repeat step 2with the remaining filo
sheets, pistachio andmore icing sugar.
Transfer onto the second lined baking
tray and cut into 6 rectangles. You
should nowhave 12 rectangles.
4Pop both trays in the oven and bake
for 15minutes or until pastry is golden
and puffed. Remove from the oven,
sprinklewithmore icing sugarwhile
the rectangles are hot, then set aside
to cool completely.
5Meanwhile, combine themixed
berries and caster sugar in a saucepan
and place overmediumheat. Stir in
a splash of dessert wine, if using,
and the remaining butter.
6Add the vanilla pod to the berries,
simmer for 5minutes or until the
berries start breaking down, then
drain them in a sieve over a saucepan
to catch the juices. Set berries aside to
cool, and place the juice overmedium
heat to simmer and thicken to a syrup.
7 In a bowl, whisk together the
mascarpone, yoghurt, cream, vanilla
seeds, lemon juice and zest, and 25g
icing sugar, until light and fluffy.
8To assemble themillefeuille, place
1 filo rectangle on a plate, topwith a
few dollops of creammixture, arrange
a layer of the drained fruit on top, then
topwith another filo rectangle. Repeat
with a layer of cream and fruit, then
finishwith the final layer of filo. Repeat
with the remaining filo stacks, cream
and berries, making 4 filo stacks.
9 Serve drizzledwith the fruit syrup
and a dusting of icing sugar.
SALTED BANOFFEE TRANCHEBanana, salted caramel, chocolate
– possibly the ultimate dessert!
You'll love this decadent tart.
Serves 12
• 150g chocolate digestive biscuits
• 200g unsalted butter
• ½cup (125g) brown sugar
• 395g can sweetened condensedmilk
112
• Sea salt flakes
• 4 ripe bananas, sliced
• 300ml double thick cream,whipped
• Dark andwhite chocolate curls
1Whiz the biscuits in a food processor
until fine, then transfer to a bowl. Melt
75g butter, then stir it into the biscuits
until combined. Spoon it into a loose-
bottomed, rectangular tart pan and
firmly press it into the base and up the
sides. Chill in the fridge until firm.
2Tomake the salted caramel, melt the
sugar and remaining 125g butter in
a non-stick saucepan overmedium
heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar
has dissolved. Stir in the condensedmilk
and bring to the boil – allow to bubble
for a fewminutes until it darkens
slightly and thickens. Stir through
a good pinch of sea salt flakes, then
set aside to cool slightly. Pour into the
biscuit case and return to the fridge for
at least 1 hour until completely cool.
3When ready to serve, ease the tart
out of the pan and place on a serving
board. Arrange the sliced bananas on
top, dollopwithwhipped cream and
finishwith curls of chocolate.
PASSIONFRUITCURD TARTLETSMakes 6
• 1⅔cups (250g) plain flour,
plus extra to dust
• 2 tsp ground cardamom
• Finely grated zest of 1 lime
• 175g chilled unsalted
butter, chopped
• 1 egg yolk
Curd filling
• 15–18 passionfruits
• 2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
• ⅔cup (150g) caster sugar
• 125g chilled unsalted butter,chopped
1 For the curd, remove all the pulp from
the passionfruits andwhiz in a food
processor, then pass through a sieve
to remove all the seeds, set the seeds
to one side.
2Pour the strained pulp into a saucepan
with the eggs, egg yolks and sugar. Set
it over amedium-low heat and stir until
the sugar has dissolved.
3Add the butter a little at a time,
making sure each piece hasmelted
before adding the next, stirring
constantly (make sure it doesn’t boil
or the eggswill scramble). Keep stirring
until themixture is thick enough to coat
the back of a spoon, then take it off the
heat and set aside to cool.
4Pass the curd through a sieve
and add 1 tbs of the reserved seeds,
if desired, then set aside.
5Preheat the oven to 180°C. Tomake
the pastry, pop the flour, cardamom
andmost of the lime zest (saving some
to serve) in a food processor. Add the
butter, then pulse until themixture
resembles breadcrumbs.
6Add the egg yolk and 2 tbs coldwater,
then pulse again until the dough comes
together. Turn out onto a lightly floured
surface and brieflywork it with your
hands. Coverwith plastic wrap and chill
in the fridge for 20minutes.
7Divide the pastry into 6 pieces, then
roll out each piece into an 18cm circle,
2mm thick. Use these to line 6 x 12cm
mini tart pans, pressing them into place.
Trim off any excess pastry.
8Prick the pastry bases, line the pastry
with baking paper and fill with rice or
pastryweights, thenbake in the oven
for 10minutes. Removepaper and
weights and return to oven for 5minutes
or until crisp andgolden. Set aside to
cool for 5minutes, before turning them
out to cool completely.
9 Carefully fill the caseswith the
passionfruit curd, and leave to set in
the fridge for 30minutes. Sprinkle over
the remaining lime zest to serve.
PASSIONFRUIT CURD TARTLETS
RHUBARB GALETTE
WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM
RHUBARB GALETTEServes 8
• 1⅔cups (250g) plain flour,
plus extra to dust
• 2 tbs icing sugar
• 175g chilled unsalted butter, chopped
• Finely grated zest of 2 lemons and
juice of 1 lemon
• 2 egg yolks
• 500g rhubarb, cut into 5cm pieces
• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
• ½ cup (110g) raw sugar
• Vanilla ice cream (recipe follows),
to serve
1 Tomake the pastry, place the flour,
icing sugar and a pinch of fine salt in a
food processor. Pulse to combine, then
add the butter and zest of 1 lemon, and
pulse again until themixture resembles
fine breadcrumbs. Add 1 egg yolk and
2 tbs coldwater, then pulse again to
form a dough.
2 Turn out the dough onto a lightly
floured surface and bring it together
gentlywith your hands. Cover in plastic
wrap and chill for 20minutes.
3Meanwhile, preheat the oven to
180°C and arrange the rhubarb on a
baking paper-lined baking tray. Squeeze
over the lemon and lime juice, then
sprinkle over the lime zest, remaining
lemon zest, and half the raw sugar.
4Bake in the oven for 15minutes, until
the rhubarb is just cooked but still holds
its shape. Remove and leave to cool
completely, before transferring to a
sieve to drain – youwant to remove as
much liquid as possible, then set aside.
5Roll out the pastry into a 40cm circle
on a floured surface (don’t worry if
it isn’t neat, rough edges give a nice
rustic look). Transfer to a baking
paper-lined baking tray.
6 Carefully arrange the drained rhubarb
in the centre of the pastry circle,
leaving a 7cm gap border.
7 Sprinkle overmost of the remaining
sugar, then carefully fold the edges of
the pastry over the filling (it doesn’t
have to be too neat, this is a free-form
tart). Brush the pastrywith the
remaining egg yolk and scatter
over the last of the raw sugar.
8Bake the galette in the oven for
25–30minutes until the pastry is
golden and cooked through and the
filling is tender and bubbling. Allow to
cool for a fewminutes, then slice and
servewith a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
VANILLA ICE CREAMCold and creamy, ice cream is
the perfect accompaniment to
a slice of hot tart, and homemade
is alwaysworth the extra effort.
Makes 900ml
• 300ml pure (thin) cream
• 300mlmilk
• 1 vanilla bean, split,
seeds scraped
• 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
• 6 large egg yolks
• ⅔cup (150g) caster sugar
1 Combine the cream andmilk in a
saucepan overmediumheat. Add
the vanilla pod and seeds to the pan.
Bring it to just below boiling point,
then turn off the heat and allow to
infuse for 30minutes.
2Place the vanilla bean paste, egg
yolks and sugar in a bowl andwhisk
to combine. Heat the infused cream
mixture back to just below boiling point,
then slowly pour it into the egg yolk
mixture, whisking constantly, until
it forms a custard.
3Wipe out the pan, pour in the custard
and place it over low heat, stirring
constantly. When themixture is thick
enough to coat the back of a spoon,
take it off the heat. Pass it through a
sieve into a bowl (discarding the solids)
and set aside to cool.
4Pour the custard into an ice-cream
machine and churn according to
themanufacturer’s directions.
(Alternatively, pour themixture into
a shallow container and freeze for
2 hours or until frozen at edges.
Remove and beatwith electric beaters.
Return the container to the freezer
and repeat 2 or 3 times.)
5Transfer the ice cream to a container,
seal, and store in the freezer until ready
to serve.for just $44.99 a yearjamiemagazine.com/ipad
NEWSLIFEMEDIA
CREATIVESERVICES.IM
AGEANDRECIPE:©2013,JAMIE
OLIVERENTERPRISESLIM
ITED(JAMIEOLIVER.COM).PHOTOGRAPHY:DAVID
LOFTUS.
delicious. WOOLWORTHS ADVERTISING FEATURE
Asian-style roast chicken saladServes 4-6
1.5kg Macro Wholefoods Market Free-Range
Whole Chicken
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp dried chilli flakes
1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
Olive oil
Handful of unsalted peanuts
Juice of 2 limes
Extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tbs low-salt soy sauce
1 tsp light soft brown sugar
1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed
1 large or 2 small lettuces, softround or cos,
washed and spun dry
Large bunch each fresh mint and coriander
1 small cucumber
Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a roasting tray,
sprinkle the chicken with a pinch of salt and
pepper, the dried chilli and coriander seeds.
Drizzle with olive oil and rub all over the bird.
Cook for around 1 hour 15 minutes or until
golden and cooked through, basting the
chicken every now and then. To check it’s
cooked, insert a skewer into the thickest part
of the thigh. If the juices run clear, it’s done.
Meanwhile, roast the peanuts in the oven
for about 15 minutes or until smelling fantastic.
Roughly chop and set aside.
Once cooked, leave the chicken to rest for
30 minutes. While you wait, squeeze the lime
juice into a bowl and top with an equal amount
of extra virgin olive oil. Add the sesame oil, soy
sauce, sugar and chopped chilli, then mix well.
Finely slice the spring onions and roughly chop
the lettuce. Scatter over a large serving platter
and pick over the herb leaves. Use a fork to
scrape down the length of the cucumber (this
will help it to absorb the dressing), then cut
in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds.
Finely slice and add to the platter.
EasterdelightsWoolworths has teamed up
with Jamie Oliver to bring
you easy family meals to
enjoy throughout the holidays.
Create an Eastermenu everyone will loveThis fresh Asian-style roast chicken salad is the perfect
alternative to traditional Easter fare that everyone will love.
Whether you’re planning on entertaining a crowd or simply
creating a chocolate hunt for the kids, Woolworths has all
the inspiration you need to make this Easter special.
For more Easter inspiration, visit: woolworths.com.au/easter
Shred or pull the meat apart using two forks,
and add half of it to the bowl (save the rest for
another recipe). Drizzle over the dressing and
use your hands to toss everything together
until evenly coated. Sprinkle over the toasted
peanuts and tuck in.
Made with love
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delicious. 119
RECIPESVALLILITTLE&
SARAH
MURPHY
PHOTOGRAPHYJEREMYSIM
ONS
STYLIN
GDAVID
MORGAN
From classic walnut slice
just like Grandma used to
make to double chocolate
decadence, these recipes
are ideal for autumn baking.
120 delicious.
berries & cream jelly slice >Makes 12 slices
Store slice in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
250g plain sweet biscuits
(we used morning
coffee biscuits)
200g unsalted butter, melted
Juice of 2 lemons
395g can sweetened
condensed milk
2 titanium-strength gelatine
leaves*
85g raspberry jelly crystals
Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm lamington
pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides.
Whiz biscuits in a food processor to fine crumbs. Transfer
to a bowl and combine with melted butter, then press mixture
into the base of prepared pan. Chill for 30 minutes or until firm.
Combine lemon juice and condensed milk in a saucepan with3/4 cup (185ml) water over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes
or until warmed through.
Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes to soften.
Squeeze excess water from the gelatine, then stir into the
condensed milk mixture until melted and combined. Pour over
biscuit base and return to the refrigerator for 2 hours or until set.
Prepare jelly according to packet instructions. Allow to cool
slightly, then pour over milk filling. Chill for 3-4 hours until set.
Carefully remove slice from pan, then slice to serve.
* Gelatine leaves are from gourmet food shops and delis.
< lemon & coconut sliceMakes 12 slices
250g milk arrowroot
biscuits
125g unsalted butter,
melted, plus extra
1 tbs softened
unsalted butter
1/2 cup (150g) sweetened
condensed milk
1 cup (90g) desiccated
coconut
Finely grated zest and juice
of 1 lemon
2 cups (300g) pure icing
sugar, sifted
Toasted coconut flakes,
to sprinkle
Grease and line a 20cm square pan with baking paper,
leaving plenty overhanging the sides.
Place biscuits in a food processor and whiz to fine crumbs.
Add melted butter, condensed milk, desiccated coconut and
lemon zest, then whiz until well combined. Press the mixture
into the prepared pan and chill for 2 hours or until firm.
For the icing, combine icing sugar, lemon juice and
remaining 1 tbs softened butter in a bowl, stirring until smooth.
Spread icing over slice and sprinkle with toasted flaked
coconut. Allow to set for 1 hour, then slice into 12 rectangles.
easy does it.
caramel walnut slice >Makes 12 slices
125g softened
unsalted butter
2 tbs pure icing sugar,
sifted
1 cup (150g) self-raising flour,
sifted, plus 2 tbs extra
2 eggs
11/4 firmly packed cup (310g)
brown sugar
2 cups (200g) walnuts, toasted
1 cup (90g) desiccated
coconut
2 tbs honey
Cocoa, to dust
Preheat oven to 180°C. Line the base and sides of a 20cm square
pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides.
Whiz butter, icing sugar and 1 cup (150g) flour in a food
processor until a soft dough forms. Press dough into the base
of the pan, then bake for 15-20 minutes until light golden.
Meanwhile, beat eggs and brown sugar for 3 minutes or until
thick and pale. Roughly chop half the walnuts and add to egg
mixture with coconut, 1/4 tsp salt and remaining 2 tbs flour. Stir
to combine. Spread mixture over pastry, then return to oven
and bake for 35-40 minutes until light golden and top is set.
Meanwhile, melt honey in a small frypan over medium heat.
Bring to a simmer, then add remaining 1 cup (100g) walnuts.
Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until caramelised. Transfer to
a baking paper-lined baking tray to set, then break into shards.
Serve slice topped with caramelised walnut and cocoa. d.
< double chocolate sliceMakes 16 slices
1/3 cup (35g) cocoa
250g softened unsalted butter
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
4 eggs
13/4 cups (260g) self-raising
flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/3 cup (80ml) milk
1/3 cup (110g) apricot jam
150g dark chocolate,
chopped
21/3 cups (350g) icing sugar
Melted white chocolate,
to drizzle
Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease and line a 30cm x 20cm
lamington pan with baking paper. Combine cocoa with 1/3 cup
(80ml) hot water and stir until smooth. Set aside to cool slightly.
Beat butter and caster sugar with electric beaters until thick
and pale. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.
Fold in flour, baking powder, milk and cooled cocoa mixture
until well combined. Spoon into pan and bake for 35 minutes
or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Cool slightly, then remove from pan and cool completely.
Melt jam in a saucepan over low heat. Add dark chocolate
and 1/4 cup (60ml) hot water, stirring until melted. Remove from
heat. Add icing sugar and whisk until smooth. Spread icing over
slice and allow to set, then drizzle with white chocolate.
balancing act.
GOINGGLUTEN-FREE is more popular than ever, with or
without amedical diagnosis of sensitivity to gluten. Google
searches for ‘gluten’ have been trending, while gluten-free options
are now a staple on restaurant menus (ever wondered what ‘gf’
next to the name of a dish stood for?). There are even gluten-free
dating sites for those on the lookout for lovin’.
What is gluten?Gluten – from the latin for ‘glue’ – is the protein component of
wheat and wheat-related grains including barley, rye and spelt.
It’s what gives elasticity to dough,
helping it to rise and keep its shape,
and contributes to the ‘chew’ of the
finished loaf. Bread flours are generally
higher in gluten than pastry flours, and
the traditional kneading process is
what promotes the formation of gluten
strands in the dough. Gluten is a
source of protein from both naturally
high-gluten foods and when used
as an additive in foods otherwise low
in protein, such as vegetarian products.
Various shades of intoleranceOften a sensitivity or intolerance to
gluten may be confused with coeliac
disease, but they aren’t the same.
‘Gluten sensitivity’ describes a
spectrum of disorders of which coeliac
disease – an autoimmune allergic
reaction to gluten – is the most
extreme. For coeliac sufferers, even the
smallest amount of gluten can damage
the gut lining and may potentially
contribute to the development of other
diseases, warranting absolute avoidance. For those at the
lesser end of the sensitivity spectrum, it may be helpful to
trial a gluten-free diet, then reintroduce small amounts
of gluten-containing foods as tolerated. Common grains
containing gluten include wheat, barley, burghul, semolina,
rye, spelt, kamut, triticale (a rye-wheat hybrid), farro and
oats (which are naturally gluten-free but often contain trace
amounts because of the way they’re manufactured).
Is going gluten-free better for you?It’s an easy mistake to make, but a gluten-free label doesn’t
necessarily bestow a cachet of health onto whatever food it
graces. In fact, many gluten-free alternatives for foods that
usually contain wheat – things like pastries, crackers, breads
and snack bars – are made with added fats, sugars and a laundry
list of highly processed ingredients designed to mimic the
texture and properties of gluten. So, going gluten-free in the
name of health isn’t a free ticket to go nuts on gluten-free potato
chips and triple-choc brownies.
You don’t actually need to buy specialty
products to go gluten-free. Your best bet for
both your health and your wallet is to focus
on naturally gluten-free wholefoods such as
vegetables, fruits, dairy, eggs, unprocessed
meats, seafood, legumes, gluten-free
wholegrains and grain-like seeds such as
quinoa, millet, amaranth and corn (see full
list, below). Avoiding processed foods also
negates the need to be on the lookout for
tricky items that might contain gluten
unexpectedly – such as soy sauce (opt for
tamari instead), processed lunchmeats,
ice creams and store-bought salad
dressings and relishes – where gluten
is used as a stabilising agent.
Gluten-free alternativesThere are plenty of gluten-free grains
and flour alternatives that are worthwhile
including in your diet, even if you’re not
avoiding gluten. All kinds of rice, corn
(including polenta), buckwheat, amaranth,
quinoa, millet, sorghum, potato starch,
arrowroot and nut meals (including
almond, chestnut, hazelnut and coconut flours) are naturally
gluten-free. For the adventurous, look for fava bean flour or
chickpea flour (besan) from Indian grocers, and seek out tapioca,
sweet potato flour and yam noodles fromAsian grocers.
Gluten-free flours can’t simply be substituted 1:1 for their
standard counterparts without some tweaks and adjustments,
but there are countless gluten-free recipe resources available
to help (see p 92 for our round-up of gluten-free blog recipes).
Gluten is a protein found in
grains such as rye, spelt, wheat,
barley, burghul and semolina.
It’s what gives bread its ‘chew’
and helps dough to rise.
You don’t need specialty
products to go gluten-free
– focus on naturally gluten-free
foods such as fruits, vegetables,
dairy, eggs, meat, seafood and
gluten-free grains such as rice,
buckwheat, quinoa and corn.
Gluten-free flours can’t be
substituted 1:1 for regular flour.
’Gluten sensitivity’ describes a
spectrum of disorders, coeliac
disease being the most extreme.
Back to basicsThis month we put gluten under the spotlight, exploring intolerances and gluten-free
alternatives you can use at home, including a clever pizza recipe with a cauliflower base.
WORDSKATESKIN
NER
RECIPESHANNON
HARLEY
PHOTOGRAPHYBRETTSTEVENS
STYLING
BERNISMITHIES
cauliflower-crust pizza withricotta, prosciutto andmint pestoMakes 4 individual pizzas
1 small cauliflower, cut into florets
11/4 cups (150g) almond meal
3/4 cup (60g) finely grated parmesan
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 zucchinis, thinly sliced into ribbons
1 cup (240g) ricotta, crumbled
4 thin slices prosciutto, torn into strips
Mint pesto (makes 3/4 cup)
1 bunch mint, plus extra leaves to serve
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley
1 garlic clove, chopped
1/4 preserved lemon, flesh and
white pith discarded, rind chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup (25g) almond meal
1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil
Preheat 2 baking trays in a 200°C oven.
Whiz cauliflower in a food processor until
it resembles couscous. Combine 4 cups
cauliflower in a bowl with the almond
meal, parmesan and eggs, then season.
Place 2 sheets of baking paper on the
bench and, using one-quarter of the
cauliflower mixture for each pizza, place
2 mounds on each piece of paper, shaping
into 5mm-thick (16cm diameter) pizza
bases. Carefully transfer the pizza bases
to the preheated trays, then bake for
20 minutes or until dark golden and firm.
Meanwhile, toss zucchini with 1 tbs salt.
Set aside for 20 minutes. Rinse then drain.
For the mint pesto, whiz herbs in a food
processor until finely chopped. Add the
garlic, preserved lemon, lemon juice and
almond meal, then whiz to combine. With
the motor running, add the oil in a steady
stream until smooth. Season with pepper.
Divide ricotta, zucchini and prosciutto
among the pizza bases, then return to the
oven for 5 minutes or until heated through.
Drizzle the mint pesto over the pizzas and
garnish with mint leaves to serve. d.
delicious. 123
• Cambodian flavours • Chef’s guide to Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula • 24 hours in California
delicious. 125
Lara Dunston ventures beyond Cambodia’s tourist
hotspots of Angkor Wat and Siem Reap to
Battambang, the country’s ‘rice bowl’ where the busy
streets are lined with hawkers and eateries offering
plenty of choices from sunrise until after dark.
LAND OFPLENTY
delicious. 127
Clockwise (from far left): boys ride home from school;handmade noodles at Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh; fish amok atAntique House; a family work their rice fields; monks wait forlunch in the leafy grounds of a pagoda; legendary Australianchef David Thompson, adviser to new restaurant Jaan Bai.
global flavours.
global flavours.
128 delicious.
Frommy first glimpse of Cambodia’s gritty riverside city of
Battambang I was enchanted. After an interminable bus ride
from sprawling Bangkok with its gleaming skyscrapers and
gridlocked traffic, sleepy Battambang’s mural-clad pagodas,
glittering gold chedi (temples) and Chinese shophouses
charmed the pants off me. Home to some of Cambodia’s
best-preserved French colonial architecture, the compact old
quarter quickly lured me out for a late afternoon stroll to see
the sun cast its golden light on the pretty buildings, their paint
peeling, balconies crumbling and shutters hanging from
hinges. In the riverside parks at sunset, mandarin-robed
monks strolled beneath umbrellas, old men in berets played
Chinese checkers and local women did aerobics and danced
the Madison. But it was the food stalls that dotted the riverside
selling hot corn on the cob, steamed buns and sweet coconuts
that captivated me.
Known as Cambodia’s ‘rice bowl’, the
agriculturally rich area of Battambang
is renowned for producing the country’s
finest produce. Locals boast that the
area reaps the best rice, juiciest oranges,
richest coconuts and sweetest bananas
and pineapples. The wet season sees
much of the farmland submerged
beneath monsoonal rainwater. But after
harvest at the start of the dry season,
attention turns to the fertile riverbanks
not long ago under water, where
farmers plant countless sorts of greens and vegetables used
in the samlors (soups and light stews) loved by locals for their
sour, pungent and bitter flavours.
While the seedlings are growing, fishermen take to the
coffee-coloured Sanker River to cast nets to catch freshwater fish
swimming from the massive Tonle Sap Lake – Southeast Asia’s
largest – along with river prawns, crabs, eels and sea snakes,
which will be smoked on the riverbank and stored for the next
monsoon. Stroll Phsar Nath, the old market in the historic
centre, or Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk and you’ll see vendors selling
Battambang’s beautiful produce – mountains of pineapples and
coconuts, colourful mats covered with vegetables, fish flapping
in buckets of water and baskets filled to the brim with vibrant
chillies, red onions and fragrant local favourites: lemongrass,
kaffir lime, galangal, turmeric and ginger.
OFF TO A GOOD START
You have no choice but to begin your day in the darkness in
Battambang. Without earplugs, expect to be woken well before
dawn by the melodic hum of monks chanting at the pagodas
or by a wedding party that starts around 4.30am with the
lyrical tinkling of a Cambodian xylophone followed by a
beautiful blues-style of folk filled with sorrow that sounds
more suitable for a funeral. Still, it’s more pleasing than the
mid-morning disco sounds that will later welcome guests.
Thankfully, dawn is the best time to depart for a tuk tuk ride.
Early mornings are when the country roads and village
lanes of Battambang come alive. Farmers set out on ox-carts
for the rice fields and fishermen for the riverbanks. Vendors
set up their roadside stands, while locals slurp breakfast soups
at ramshackle stalls. Kids ride bicycles to distant schools,
grown-ups whiz into Battambang on beaten-up old motorbikes.
Everyone is generous with waves and smiles so prepare to be
greeted with constant shouts of “hello!”.
MEETING THE PRODUCERS
In Battambang’s surrounding
villages, artisan producers still
make things by hand as generations
of their ancestors have always done.
Most hotels can arrange a tuk tuk
driver, however, nobody knows
Battambang province like
English-speaking Mr Ol, booked
through Bambu Hotel (see Where
to Stay, p 132). Mr Ol has driven
my husband and I down every
country lane, village track and
riverside trail that seemed far too narrow to trundle along,
spontaneously stopping off to chat to everyone from a family
barbecuing rice-field rats to women harvesting a garlicky
green called snoar.
Mr Kim Nou, the hospitable owner of boutique hotel
Maisons Wat Kor (see Where to Stay, p 132) organises an
excellent tuk tuk tour, stopping at a variety of traditional
cottage industries run from family homes and humble
workshops. During one long day we visit families producing
incense from the wood of the kapok tree; clay stoves, made
from recycled metals and mud, baked in a kiln; and rice
noodles, produced by a complicated process starting with
the grinding of rice into powder, continuing with heavy duty
mixing and kneading, and the extrusion of noodles by the
only machine on site, before finishing with the boiling and
cooling of the noodles, ready to be collected by vendors.
At a village well-regarded for its rice paper, we met a
rosy-cheeked woman who makes 1,200 pieces a day with the
help of her daughter, which she then sells for just over $1 for
100. At another village, Mr Mao, who has been making rice
“Earlymornings arewhen the countryroads and villagelanes of Battambangcome alive.”
WORDSLARA
DUNSTON
PHOTOGRAPHYTERENCECARTER
130 delicious.
wine for over 20 years showed us the tray of heady spices,
including star anise, chilli and garlic that he ferments
with rice and yeast to produce the potent spirit he sells
for $1 a litre. A dollar is also the going rate for the specialty
of Samrongkung village, kralan, a sweet snack of sticky
rice, fresh grated coconut, sugar and black eyed peas stuffed
into pieces of bamboo and grilled over an open fire.
STREET FOOD
Mornings may be the best time for
experiencing Battambang’s villages
and countryside, but evenings are
when you need to get a taste of the
city centre. If you don’t see plumes
of smoke rising in the darkness from
Phsar Nathmarket soon after dusk,
let your nose guide you to the pans
of simmering soups and stews, and
salted fish and meats barbecuing over
smouldering coals. The road that
skirts the perimeter of the market is
the site of Battambang’s only traffic
jam. Each day, for a few hours after
sunset, locals flock there on motorbikes, bicycles, tuk tuks
and cars to purchase the pre-cooked dishes that are the city’s
favourite form of take-away.
The best vendors are the busiest, including a very focused
woman called Roth who has run her stall here for a decade,
specialising in homemade samlors (soups), including samlor
machou, a tangy soup made with green papaya, spicy basil and
smoked fish; samlor machou youn, sweet and sour soup with
pineapple, tomato, watermelon, and tamarind; sgnor, a clear
chicken broth fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime;
and samlor trayong chek, made with banana blossom and
tamarind. Her other specialties are char kroeung, a dry
curry-like dish made with chicken, duck or catfish and
prahok chamhuy, steamed prahok (fermented fish paste),
with pork and eggs.
The adjoining stall specialises in
all things grilled – frogs, fish cakes,
chicken wings, pork ribs, quails,
sweet Cambodian sausages and
whole chickens – glistening from
amarinade of kroeung, oil and red
chilli. Large grey goby fish and
smaller catfish, both caught from the
river, are blanketed in salt and
continually turned on the barbecue.
Only for the culinary adventurous is
khnob, barbecued prahok (fermented
fish paste) with mushroom and
tamarind wrapped in banana leaf.
Nearby, petite Mao Vanna, who for 20 years has been selling
only three specialties from her small stools, serves up trays
topped with amok trey, a mousse-like fish curry steamed
in banana leaf that is Cambodia’s national dish; char kdao,
a kroeung-based duck dish with hot basil; and char
kgney, a light chicken and ginger stir-fry.
“The best vendors arethe busiest, including afocused woman calledRoth who specialisesin home-cooked soupsknown as samlors.”
Clockwise (from far left): smoke from an evening takeaway stalloutside Phsar Nath; spices used to make rice wine; an incensemaker; a family pull up on their bike to buy dinner from ahawker; son vac, fish paste grilled in banana leaves; a muralof legendary Cambodian singers who died during the Pol Potregime; nom krourk, fried rice and coconut cake.
global flavours.
global flavours.
132 delicious.
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS
You’ll be hard pressed to find authentic dishes that don’t
include fermented fish paste or the chilli marinade kroeung.
They’re acquired tastes for foreign palates, especially the
fermented fish paste, prahok, that locals liken to smelly French
cheese. Eaten as a paste with minced pork to create tasty dips
and diluted for soup and curry
dishes, prahok offends most Western
palates, which is why tourist
restaurants tend to leave it out,
ensuring you rarely get to try
Cambodian cuisine as it’s intended
to taste. Much more palatable to
Westerners is kroeung, a herbal
paste ground from fresh lemongrass,
galangal, kaffir lime, turmeric, garlic,
eschalot and dried red chillies, that
forms the basis of the most delicious
Cambodian soups, curries and stews.
Our culinary guide, Kim Nou,
provided some of our most authentic
Cambodian food experiences.
Starting at a riverside restaurant
calledMlob Chan, which translates
to ‘in the shade of the nutmeg tree’,
we swung in hammocks in a rickety
alfresco bamboo pavilion
overlooking the Sanker River, while
we waited for the feast he’d arranged
– there is no menu and guests simply
request their favourite dishes, which
are served on a colourful mat on the
bamboo ‘floor’. The food is simple,
fresh and flavourful.
Later that evening we continued to
feast on local favourites at Antique
House, a splendid century-old
Khmer timber house in Wat Kor
Village, which you can visit during
the day for a private tour by the
distinguished owner Madame Ming.
Her long-term cook, Ming Pok, spent the day preparing our
elaborate meal. There was a sublime sweet and sour samlor
majou kti manoas or pineapple chicken soup that was like
a light chicken curry. A tangy lemony dip called tek kroeung,
which we ate with miniature crunchy clusters of flowers
called sdaow, was like nothing we’d ever tried before. Yet the
highlight was the finest rendition of a dish every tourist to
Cambodia eats – fish amok, prepared to a secret family recipe.
Late one afternoon, in high heels and a floppy hat, Phary, the
owner of Battambang Resort (see Where to Stay) took us on a
snack tour that she offers to guests along a dusty riverside road
dotted with stalls and rustic eateries. We began at a wooden stall
where owner Sal makes nom krourk, fried rice and coconut cakes,
in a mould over a charcoal fire, which she serves with a syrup
of palm sugar and fish sauce. At a
bamboo shack precariously perched
over the river, we ate son vac, fish
paste grilled in banana leaves, which
we wrapped in lettuce with basil, cold
noodles, saw-tooth coriander and
a tangy sauce. We followed it with
pong tia koun or boiled baby duck
eggs, which we scooped out after
first drinking the warm aromatic
juices from the shell that we’d created
by adding salt, pepper and lime juice.
At Ponleu Preh Chung, where
Mrs Vat Ongn has been crafting
a repertoire of desserts for over
20 years, we had our first taste of the
heavenly banh ja’neuk, glutinous rice
balls stuffed with mung bean paste,
drowned in coconut milk and tapioca,
and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The
dish is nicknamed ‘killing husband’
for its tendency to get caught in the
throats of drunk spouses.
But the highlight was our final stop,
where Mr Pra Dina piled raw beef
skewers that had been marinating in
a plastic tub of kroeung onto a row of
barbecues. As we watched him fan
smoke over the coals, dozens of
locals began arriving on motorbikes
to join us in our patient wait.
For an authentic breakfast, Phary
also offers a cycle tour to a soup stall
where Mr Lee Mun andMrs Te Lieng
have been making Battambang’s
quintessential breakfast, a pork noodle broth called kuy teav,
since 1995. Try the soup with pork slices or do as the locals
do and opt for pork offal, including intestines and lung.
TOP TABLES
When you’re done with eating on the streets, sleek new Jaan
Bai (Street 2), which translates to ‘rice bowl’, offers pan-Asian
sharing plates prepared with organic, seasonal produce, along
WHERE TO STAY
You’ll find the best hotels near the
riverbank and in tranquil villages
just a ten-minute tuk tuk ride to the
centre. Not far from the river, Bambu
Hotel (from $70 per night, including
taxes; bambuhotel.com) has large
rooms in a colonial-inspired villa as
well as Khmer-style rooms in timber
buildings, separated by an enticing
swimming pool.
In tropical gardens in peaceful
riversideWat Kor village,Maisons
Wat Kor (from $89 per night,
including taxes; maisonswatkor.com)
has spacious rooms in traditional
Khmer timber buildings with
wooden decks looking onto
a lotus pond and alluring pool.
Nearby, set amidst emerald rice
paddies, Battambang Resort (from
$61 per night, including taxes;
battambangresort.com) boasts
modern minimalist rooms and has
a poolside restaurant. All hotels
arrange excellent tuk tuk tours, while
Battambang Resort also offers breezy
riverside bike rides and a fishing
boat cruise to absorb life on the water.
Clockwise (from top left): Mr Pra Dina’s famous marinated beefskewers; food stall at Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk market; the kitchenteam takes a break at Jaan Bai, a training restaurant backed byAustralians Chef David Thompson and restaurateur John Fink;David Thompson’s fiery Jungle Curry at Jaan Bai; a local womansells seedlings from the back of her bike.
134 delicious.
with a pumping soundtrack and potent cocktails. Set in
a stylishly refurbished shophouse clad in murals by local
artists, you’ll enjoy Cambodian specialties including Kampot
pepper crab from the south, while a fiery Thai jungle curry
comes courtesy of Chef David Thompson of Nahm Bangkok,
who, along with Australian restaurateur John Fink, is an
advisor to the restaurant that trains local chefs.
More Cambodian favourites
(and Western comfort food) are
on the menu at colonial-inspired
Russey Restaurant (Street 203) at
Bambu Hotel, from stir-fried peppery
beef lok lak, to a hearty samlor kako,
a Cambodian vegetable soup made
with kroeung and prahok. The
signature dish, beef Battambang,
is a richer, more sophisticated
version of sach ko ang jakak (grilled
kroeung beef and pork skewers) that is served at weddings.
Some of Battambang’s most elegant dishes are served
at beautifulMaisons Wat Kor (Street 800) boutique hotel,
where owner Kim Nou directs the kitchen to develop refined
renditions of Cambodian dishes that are packed with flavour.
Tasting menus change daily and tables must be booked ahead.
Hope that the fried frangipani appetisers are on the menu.
Deliciously simple dumpling and soup joint Lan Chov
Khorko Miteanh (145 Street 2), known to expats as ‘Noodle
Guy’, is the spot to hit for hand-pulled noodles and handmade
dumplings, cooked to order at the front of the no-frills eatery.
COFFEE & COCKTAILS
Kickstart your day with a creamy Cambodian cappuccino
at rustic Kinyei Cafe (Street 1½), where the rich combination
of palm sugar, pineapple syrup and coconut milk earned the
lovely Sakana Long the title of 2013 national barista champion.
You’ll also find faultless coffee at Jaan Bai (Street 2), as you’d
expect from a Melbourne-managed enterprise – along with
icy beer on tap and Battambang’s best
cocktails. Sundowners should be
savoured on the riverside at the
atmospheric Balcony Bar (Street 1)
in a big traditional timber house
about halfway to Wat Kor village,
or in town on the waterfront at
bohemian Cafe Eden (85 Street 1),
where the upstairs balcony offers
brilliant people-watching. If you’re
in town on weekends, make a beeline
for Lotus Bar (Street 2½) where Battambang’s expats will be
sipping something while listening to live music.
GETTINGTHERE
Battambang is around 2.5 hours by private car or 4 hours
by public bus from Siem Reap. Although it’s possible
to visit independently, Asian-based Backyard Travel
(backyardtravel.com) offer a three-day private tour
to Battambang covering some of the activities above,
including transfers, accommodation and some meals
for $485 per person for two people. d.
“Jaan Bai, backedby David Thompson,offers pan-Asiansharing plates.”
global flavours.
Clockwise (from far left): elegant renditions of Cambodian specialities at
Maisons Wat Kor; a family fishing on the Sanker River; a bartender at Lotus Bar;
a monk at Ek Phnom temple; local kids in the back of a tuk tuk; Bambu Hotel; a
detail from Battambang’s Chinese temple.
“THERE’S GOLD IN THEMHILLS,
you just got to find it,” Peter Davis’ late
father, Ivan, once told him of the rugged
terrain of Kangaroo Island off the coast
of South Australia. Peter now oversees
1400 organic hives of Ligurian bees
under Island Beehive after taking over
Ivan’s 12 hives in 1963. And it turns out
Ivan was on the money – I was lucky to
strike gold on a recent trip to Kangaroo
Island, which is the ideal location for boutique producers,
from winemakers to dairy farmers.
High-end restaurants are left for the mainland, so visiting
farm gates is the best way to sample local produce. Or
call chef Tony Nolan, who operates a mobile kitchen
(kangarooislandculinaryadventures.com.au) using the
best produce he can get his hands on each day. You could
enjoy tender confit abalone at a vineyard lunch or perched
on bales of hay overlooking
the ocean.
Ever tasted lamb chorizo?
Locals head to Southrock
Lamb to get their fix of this
KI take on a delicacy, as
well as stock up on premium
cuts laced with subtle notes
of salt (thanks to the Arctic
winds that scent the
pastures). The prized
sheep’s milk dairy range from Island Pure Sheep Dairy
is certainly worth tasting, too. Chef and cheesemaker
Justin Harman produces tangy haloumi and feta,
as well as creamy yoghurt, ricotta and labneh.
Today the world’s only pure Ligurian bees call the island
home, yielding organic honey with strong floral notes – the top
choice for many chefs, including Tim Bourke of Southern
Ocean Lodge. At any other time, you need to stay at the luxe
lodge to sample Tim’s dishes, but during this month’s Kangaroo
Island Feastival, Tim is hosting a pop-up dinner at Island
Beehive, where you can also try island-made wines from
Islander Estate Vineyards.
Visit: tourkangarooisland.com.au/kifeastival.
Assistant food editor Warren Mendes heads to South Australia’s Kangaroo Island chasing every chef’s
dream: super-fresh produce and the unique flavours that are a result of the island’s pristine terroir.
Gold rush
honey-glazed lamb with smokedyoghurt and roasted root vegetablesServes 4
You can substitute smoked yoghurt for plain natural yoghurt.
3 parsnips, quartered lengthways
1 bunch each baby beetroot and baby (Dutch) carrots,
trimmed, halved if large
8 garlic cloves (unpeeled)
100ml olive oil
1 cup (280g) sheep’s milk yoghurt*
2 tbs each brown sugar and longrain rice
1/4 cup fine woodchips for smoking*
2 lamb backstrap fillets
1/3 cup (120g) good-quality organic honey
Juice of 1 lemon
150g baby spinach
2 tbs sunflower seeds, lightly toasted
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Combine the parsnip, beetroot, carrot
and garlic on a baking tray, season and toss with 2 tbs oil. Roast
for 35-40 minutes until golden and tender.
Meanwhile, place yoghurt in a small wide bowl set above
another small bowl filled with ice (this prevents the yoghurt from
curdling as it smokes). Line the base of a wok with 2 pieces of foil,
then add the sugar, rice and woodchips. Sit a wire rack in the wok.
Place wok over high heat for 5 minutes or until starting to smoke,
then place the two bowls on the rack and cover wok with a wok
lid or large metal bowl. Reduce heat to medium and smoke for
10 minutes or until yoghurt has a smoky flavour. Chill yoghurt.
Heat 1 tbs oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat. Season
the lamb, then cook, turning, for 2 minutes or until slightly
browned. Reduce the heat to medium and brush the lamb with
the honey. Continue cooking the lamb, turning and brushing with
honey, for a further 5-6 minutes until caramelised. Remove lamb
from the pan and rest, covered with foil, for 5 minutes, then slice.
To make a dressing, combine the resting juices with lemon juice
and remaining 2 tbs oil, then season. Arrange the lamb, roast
vegetables, spinach and seeds on serving plates, drizzle with
the dressing and serve with smoked yoghurt. d.
* Sheep’s milk yoghurt is from selected delis and health food
shops.Woodchips are from hardware and barbecue shops. WORDS&RECIPEWARREN
MENDES
FOOD
&PORTRAIT
PHOTOGRAPHYBRETTSTEVENS
STYLIN
GBERNISMITHIES
LOCATIO
NPHOTOGRAPHYCRAIG
WALL&
SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
NTOURISM
COMMISSIO
N(H
ONEY&
SEALS)
“Visitingfarm gates isthe best wayto sample localproduce.”
136 delicious.
postcard.
WHERE Kangaroo Island, SA.
WHEN Kangaroo Island brings
out beauty in all seasons. Sample
the best local produce and flavours
at Kangaroo Island Feastival
(April 24-28).
WHY To unwind, sample the
abundance of artisan produce or
get out into the great outdoors
with the island’s famous wildlife.
MUST DO Stay at the Cliff House
(life-time.com.au) to enjoy the sunset
overlooking Snelling Beach, then
dine under the magical canopy of the
150-year-old fig tree on the property.
Taste island-distilled gin at Kangaroo
Island Spirits (kispiritis.com.au).
HOWHop on a 30-minute REX
flight from Adelaide, or take your
car on the 45-minute Sealink ferry
journey from Cape Jervis, which is
a scenic 2-hour drive from Adelaide,
to Penneshaw on the island.
Clockwise from top left:some Kangaroo Island locals;honey-glazed lamb withsmoked yoghurt and roastedroot vegetables; Island Beehivehives; stay at the Cliff House.
WORDSRACHELHANSON
ILLU
STRATIO
NSTEPHANIE
WESTCOTT
The beachside town just north of LA is the embodiment of
California dreaming with taco stands and swanky seafood spots.
8amSEASIDE START
Stroll along popular East Beach (E. Cabrillo
Blvd) past packed volleyball courts into
Montecito – home to movie stars, business
titans and media moguls – to Jeannine’s
(1253 Coast Village Rd). Grab a table on
the patio and tuck into the eggwhite vegie
scramble or throw calories to the wind with
the Kahlua banana French toast.
10amTO MARKET
Stop by Pierre LaFond Montecito Market
(516 San Ysidro Rd) for up-market goods
(think roast garlic, Champagne mustard and
fig balsamic), cookbooks and local wines.
11amLOCAL CULTURE
Refuel with an espresso or drip coffee
at The French Press (528 Anacapa St),
then wander down the street to tour the
ornate Moorish style Supreme Court
(1100 Anacapa St) and take in the
panorama from the top of the 26-metre
El Mirador clock tower, including the
town’s iconic namesake, Old Mission Santa
Barbara (2201 Laguna St), which is
steeped in 225 years of local history.
1pmHOT TAMALES
The ramshackle taco stand La Super-Rica
Taqueria (622 N. Milpas St) was a favourite
of Julia Child’s and is known for the
Super-Rica Especial – tortillas filled with
pork, roasted pasilla chillies and cheese.
However cross-town rival, Super Cuca’s
(626 W. Micheltorena St), was voted best
burrito in Santa Barbara last year.
2pmWINE TIME
Explore the sub-culture chic of downtown
via the Urban Wine Trail (urbanwinetrailsb.
com). More than a dozen tasting rooms
within a kilometre radius means you can
sample the region’s best vineyards minus
the designated driver. Along the way, stop
at Chocolate Maya (15 W. Gutierrez St)
for decadent hand-made confections
including organic vegan truffles and dark
chocolate scented with rosemary.
4pmSUNDOWNER
Any local will tell you that the perfect
Santa Barbara sunset includes the trifecta
of fresh oysters, New England clam
chowder and a perfectly seasoned Bloody
Mary at Brophy Bros. (119 Harbour Way)
while overlooking the harbour.
7pmSEE AND BE SEEN
Oprah Winfrey is one of the famous faces
to call Lucky’s Steakhouse (1279 Coast
Village Rd, Montecito) their local. Best
known for their steaks, the chophouse
also has the market cornered on martinis
and moreish sides. Follow up dinner with
a signature coconut ginger mojito from
Blue Agave (20 E. Cota St) or a flight
of boutique tequilas.
11pmHIT THE HAY
Citrus-farm-turned-luxury-hideaway, the
romantic San Ysidro Ranch (900 San Ysidro
Ln) has catered to celebrities (Audrey
Hepburn, John and Jackie Kennedy, Bing
Crosby and Winston Churchill, to name a
few) for years, while current A-listers seek
solitude in the cottages tucked away
in the hills. For a thriftier alternative,
Victorian Upham Hotel (1404 De la Vina
St) is the ideal bed and breakfast. d.
Santa Barbara
24 hours.
138 delicious.
140 delicious.
Bellarine Peninsula
One of Australia’s most acclaimed chefs, Ben Shewry of Attica, spends his free time far from
Melbourne’s fine dining scene with family in Ocean Grove, on the laidback Bellarine Peninsula.
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4
1. & 2. The Piping Hot Chicken Shop and, Ben’s favourite, their pulledpork roll. 3. A brave swimmer in the ocean. 4. The main attraction atRolling Pin Pies & Cakes. Previous page (clockwise from far left): BarwonHeads jetty; Starfish Bakery; ricotta hotcakes from Grow Naturally; 13thBeach at Barwon Heads; Fritz Gelato; Van Loons Nursery in Wallington;Locavore Ben Shewry; local legend Darryn Murphy of Murf’s Longboards.
1 to live,” he says. They’ve lived here, with their three children,
for more than five years now, and it works despite the
90-minute drive into the city.
Mornington Peninsula or north-east Victoria are probably
the first regions that come to mind when you think of
all-in-one food, wine and holiday destinations – for their wine
regions and popular seasonal restaurants throughout beachy
summers and snow-capped winters. Spend some time on
the the Bellarine Peninsula, however, and you’ll realise it has
an earthy, honest approach to coastal
living, plus plenty of worthwhile food,
wineries and producers to explore.
South-west of Melbourne, the region
is surrounded by Port Phillip and
Corio Bay and, along with the
Mornington Peninsula, separates
Port Phillip from the Bass Strait.
Ben has worked incredibly hard with
his business partners at Attica, David
and Helen Maccora, and a very dedicated team of chefs and
front-of-house professionals, to gain and maintain the profile
of one of the world’s best restaurants – it was ranked number
21 in the San Pellegrino World’s Best 50 restaurants in 2013
(the highest rated in Australia) – and it’s a gruelling schedule
that maintains that profile. But like many chefs, what he
Where do you imagine one of the best chef’s in the world
would take you to eat when you visited him at home? Would
you enjoy an eight-course meal in a fancy dining room,
a glass of vintage Champagne at an elegant bar, or slip
off to the local bakery for a meat pie? If you guessed
pie, you’re on track. Ben Shewry,
internationally renowned chef of
Attica in Melbourne’s Rippon Lea,
has taken the likes of Matt Preston and
award-winning Swedish chef Magnus
Nilsson to his favourite pie shop in the
town of Ocean Grove on the Bellarine
Peninsula, where he and his family live.
Safe to say that the pies are considered
some of the best in the country, and it’s
exactly this honest, good-quality, simple food in a low-key
region of Victoria that appeals to the New Zealand-born
chef and his young family.
Ben and his wife Natalia first discovered the small
town through friends. “We liked it and ended up pitching a
tent for a weekend, then decided it was where we wanted
“Wepitched a tentoneweekend, thendecided it waswherewewanted to live.”
3
WORDSHILARYMCNEVIN
PHOTOGRAPHYMARKROPER
delicious. 143
locavore.
One bite into the fabulously light pastry and tender
slow-cooked filling explains why it took out top honours. Also
available are creamy cakes, fruity custard tarts and friendly
banter from the staff. “It’s a very Australian experience,” says
Ben, “and most people get it. The kids love the sausage rolls.”
Just around the corner from the pie shop is The Piping Hot
Chicken and Burger Grill (Shop 6/63 The Terrace, Ocean
Grove, (03) 5255 1566). Ben describes this large space, with its
chaotic but welcoming decor and posters for upcoming shows
and events lining the walls, as a community hub for Ocean
Grove. It’s a chicken shop first but also
plays host to live music from local and
visiting artists. “Places like this are
important to the area,” he says, adding
that it’s good for the youth of the area to
have a place to spend time. As well as the
chicken and hot salted chips, they do beef
brisket and Ben’s pick, the pulled pork
roll. Ben says it’s the kind of place you
can “walk in with bare sandy feet and
order a chicken roll with gravy.”
Napona (24 Hodgson Street, Ocean Grove, (03) 5256 3153)
is a small oasis two blocks behind the busy shopping strip.
This leafy oasis offers respite for lunch, dinner or just a break
in between. Ben enjoys Napona for hot chocolates with his
three young children, but it serves as a restaurant, too.
serves customers and enjoys in the context of his own
restaurant, and what he cooks at home and enjoys eating
with his family are two different things. “I like simple,
honest places that cook good food.
It’s not about trends, it’s about quality,”
says Ben, who shares with us here some
of his and his family’s favourite places
in the region he calls home.
OCEAN GROVE
Ocean Grove is the small beachside
town where Ben is based and where
the aforementioned pies are produced.
Rolling Pin Pies & Cakes (12 Park Lane, Ocean Grove, (03)
5256 1517) is humble in its presentation, a pared-back room
with tiled floor, glassed-in cabinets filled with cakes and a
floor-to-ceiling pie-warmer showcasing the signature crusts.
Fillings range from chicken and mushroom to vegetable,
bacon and egg, and of course the award-winning chunky beef.
“I like simple,honest places. It’snot about trends,it’s about quality.”
1. & 3. Locally sourced Portarlingtonmussels on offer for lunch and dinnerat Napona in Ocean Grove, or dropin for an afternoon coffee. 2. Surfinglessons for the brave at OceanGrove’s Main Beach (see Things ToDo, p 146 for lesson information).
1
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144 delicious.
The lunch and dinner menus represent the produce of the area
well. Lonsdale tomatoes may be mixed in a spaghetti of
calamari, fish and prawns. Mussels from
half an hour away in Portarlington are
dressed in a broth of tomato, chilli and
coriander sitting over a thick slab of
good sourdough bread.
The third Saturday of each month
sees local farmers and producers
congregate at the Bellarine Community
Farmers’ Market (9am-1pm, Ocean
Grove Park, cnr Draper St & Presidents
Ave). Among the many producers you’ll find Springfield Olive
Oils, sourdough breads from La Madre Bakery and The Bee
Box selling honey and handmade condiments, preserves
and dips. Bites to keep you going while you shop including
Moejo’s Curries and Sushi, and Wun Hung Lo dumplings
and dim sims. It’s a blissful place.
BARWON HEADS
There’s a constant hum of movement in the Starfish Bakery
(78 Hitchcock Ave, Barwon Heads, (03) 5254 2772). Ben says
he likes to drop in “after a long bike ride or a surf,” and there is
a sense of saltwater and sandy feet among the customers who
take a seat in the leafy courtyard out the front or in the small
dining room. Bright blues, greens and purples dress the room
where you order at the counter from the
blackboard menu on the wall above.
Pretty Pink Waldorf Salad may be
a special – slow-cooked pork with
marmalade, rocket and spinach and
cucumber, while the green eggs and
ham cooked with spinach and lots of
fresh herbs, keep many a surfer sated
after a morning on the waves.
WALLINGTON
“Elk Horn is another place that’s really honest,” says Ben as he
talks about the Elk Horn Roadhouse (420a Wallington Road,
Wallington, (03) 5250 6056) that sits in the small town inland
between Ocean Grove and Barwon Heads. Part of the room is
dedicated to a retail space where they sell relishes, jams and
1. Darryn ‘Murf’ Murphy outside hisshop in Ocean Grove. 2. Antiquefurniture and an array of signs, vasesand light fittings from the Far East atKyo in Ocean Grove. 3. Fritz Gelato.
“Ben drops intoStarfish Bakery inBarwonHeads aftera bike ride or surf.”
WHERE TO SHOPDarryn Murphy of Murf’sLongboards (82 The Terrace,Ocean Grove, (03) 5255 5525) is“an institution himself,” accordingto Ben, “Ocean Grove wouldn’t bewhat it is without Murf. People goin to talk to him, not just to shop.”Van Loons Nursery (405 Grubb
Road, Wallington, (03) 5250 1842)is “just a beautiful garden shop,”says Ben. It’s worth just going fora look but if you’re a green thumbthis is a must-visit.Kyo (26 Smithton Grove, Ocean
Grove, (03) 5255 2444) is anotherof Ben’s favourites for its stunningcollection of Asian-inspiredfurniture and artifacts. “Peoplecome to Ocean Grove just to checkthis place out,” he says.Stone and Grain (Shop 5 Ocean
Plaza, 71 The Parade, OceanGrove, (03) 5256 2228) is anelegant space in the heart ofOcean Grove selling furniture,homewares and gifts, while Benenjoys the Ballyhoo Arts gallery(90 Ryrie St, Geelong, (03) 52224532) for a very simple reason,“It has a great selection ofinteresting artworks.”2
1
3
locavore.
Ben will often meet up with Sea Bounty’s Lance Wiffen
at The Portarlington Bakehouse (48 Newcombe St,
Portarlington, (03) 5259 2274), where “the bread is
great and there’s a playground
out the back for the kids.”
QUEENSCLIFF
“It’s just really good gelato,” says
Ben of Fritz Gelato (62 Hesse St,
Queenscliff, fritzgelato.com), on
the main drag of Queenscliff,
the seaside town from which the
ferry travels across to Sorrento
on the Mornington Peninsula. The small shop carries
a mix of vibrant gelati – rich chocolate, subtle pistachio
and tart raspberry sorbet among others – and they all
sit pretty against the white walls. It’s one thing to look
good but the proof is in the flavour and this is one of
the better scoops you’ll find anywhere.
chutneys made in-house. Chalkboards resting against the
front counter list the specials, perhaps a sticky black rice
pudding with coconut cream, mango and toasted sesame
seeds, as well as the single-origin coffee they’re brewing at
the moment (for example a washed San Ignacio from Bolivia).
Open for breakfast, lunch or takeaway, the cafe produces
beautifully crafted seasonal dishes inspired by regional
produce – think slow-roasted
tomatoes, Camilo lemon-infused olive
oil, Drysdale goat’s cheese and herbs
from the garden on organic Zeally
Bay Sourdough. Hearty mains include
free-range sticky chicken wings with
slaw, and a hefty steak sandwich.
PORTARLINGTON
Half an hour north of Ocean Grove,
Portarlington is renowned for its seafood, particularly the
mussels. The lengthy Portarlington Pier, dotted with anglers
after snapper, whiting or other local fish, asks for commitment
to walk its full extent, and it’s worth every step. Sea Bounty
Mussels (seabounty.com.au) sell their catch directly off the
boat so there’s no argument as to their freshness.
“Sea BountyMussels sell theirdaily catch directlyoff the boat.”
1. & 4. Green eggs and ham from Starfish Bakery; the busy courtyardout the front of the bakery. 2. & 3. Fishermen bring in their catch atPortarlington pier where Sea Bounty sell mussels straight off the boat.
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146 delicious.
1
GEELONG
Roam Cafe (199 Ryrie St Geelong, (0432 535 965) is a
“one-woman band,” says Ben, “there’s a lot of love in the
kitchen.” Mia Huang opened Roam in January last year
and has gained a solid following for her simple cooking,
whether it be a barbecued pork wrap or a
plate of soba noodles with freshly
shredded cucumber and carrot, finished
with juicy pan-fried chicken and sesame
and soy dressing. Coffee is the Dark
Horse blend by Five Senses, and simple
bookshelves dress the room filled with
cookbooks and knick-knacks.
Another of Ben’s favourites in the heart
of Geelong is the understated Chinese
restaurant Chan Wei (147 Moorabool St, Geelong,
(03) 5221 7668). Be prepared for a sparsely decorated
room where you order at the counter and friendly staff
bring the dishes out as they come. Ben loves the chilli
pork ribs – sweet, sour and spicy, they are a tumble of
fried sticky deliciousness – and the Singapore noodles.
POINT LONSDALE
“On a day off, Natalia and I might drop the kids at school and
head to Point Lonsdale’sGrow Naturally (59 Point Lonsdale
Road, (03) 5258 2508) for some time together,” says Ben. The
cafe is just three minutes walk from the beach, and its earthy
sensibilities are translated through hessian-covered cushions
that soften the long wooden bench seats. Highlights include
vegetable juices, fresh ricotta hotcakes with strawberry and
rhubarb compote, corn fritters with coriander salsa, and
vibrantly fresh slabs of spanakopita with local tomato relish.
WHERE TO STAY
Koorameet (koorameet.com, from
$320 per night) is an eco-friendly,
self-contained retreat in Barwon Heads
with loads of space, sleeping up to six. In
Portarlington, the charming 19th-century
Angasi Boutique Hotel (angasi.com.au,
from $180 per double) overlooks the
pier and offers en suite rooms and
self-contained apartments for couples and families. Vue Grand
(vuegrand.com.au, from $178 per double, with breakfast)
is the grand old dame of Queenscliff. The historic building
has 32 rooms and suites, with a bar and dining downstairs. d.
Thanks to TourismVictoria for assistance with this story.
For more information, visit: visitvictoria.com.
“There’s a lot oflove in the kitchenat Geelong’sRoamCafe.”
THINGS TO DOGo for a surf at Ocean GroveMain Beach or 13th Beachat Barwon Heads. Try thelessons at Go RIde A WaveSurf School (gorideawave.com.au) or Surf Sessions(surfsessions.com.au).Mountain bike along thepaths between Ocean Groveand Barwon Heads.Bellarine Adventure
Golf (1540 Bellarine Hwy,Wallington, bellarineadventuregolf.com) “has twoawesome mini courses andis the best place to take kidsfor a day out,” says Ben.Other family activities
recommended by Beninclude the BellarineRailway (bellarinerailway.com.au) steam train fromQueenscliff to Drysdale, andthe Marine DiscoveryCentre at Queenscliff (mdca.org.au/centres/queenscliff).
1. The historic Vue Grand in Queenscliff. 2. & 3. Picnic-styleseating out the back at The Portarlington Bakehouse, wherethe decadent almond croissants are baked in-house.
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1. Ballyhoo Arts. 2. & 6. Elk Horn Roadhouse and their saladof beetroot with pickled apple, herbs, Drysdale goat’s cheeseand Wallington cos lettuce. 3. View from Queenscliff beach.4. Grow Naturally. 5. Knick-knacks at Roam Cafe, Geelong.
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locavore.
Curtis Stone’s lemon
curd on brioche
(recipe, p 66)
delicious. 149
STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS
Caramelised onion
& blue cheese flatbread (v).................. 70
Carrot soup with herb puree
and prosciutto crisps ........................... 64
Cauliflower-crust pizza with ricotta,
prosciutto and mint pesto ................. 123
Cheddar & quinoa muffins with
sundried tomatoes and basil (v)........... 96
Chilli concertina squid with fennel ........ 104
Confit tomato & ricotta crostini (v) .......... 56
Fried chicken livers
with pickled cabbage ........................ 103
Onion & goat’s cheese tarts (v)................ 54
Orange, cranberry & walnut salad (v) ...... 55
Roast beetroot, caramelised onion
& goat’s cheese tarts (v) ....................... 94
Roast pumpkin & herb salad (v)............... 24
Thai chicken cakes................................... 59
MAINS
Baked lamb schnitzel
with celeriac slaw................................. 81
Braised beef & cauliflower pie................. 36
Braised lamb korma
with potato and coriander ................... 24
Cauliflower tikka masala (v).................... 103
Chicken Everest ....................................... 87
Chicken, leek & thyme pies
with simple flaky pastry........................ 72
Claypot snapper with burghul pilaf ......... 86
Farro salad with shanklish (v) ................... 34
Fettuccine with prawns, finger limes
and grapefruit beurre blanc................. 66
Green harissa chicken
with baked couscous ........................... 82
Honey-glazed lamb with smoked
yoghurt and roasted root vegetables..136
Meatballs with risoni................................ 79
Mushroom san choy bow (v).................... 78
Pesto-crusted lamb racks
with golden parmesan potatoes.......... 56
Pork with prosciutto & apricots ............. 104
Roast duck breast with orange,
cranberry & walnut salad ..................... 55
Rolled pork belly
with apple & raisin stuffing .................. 83
Slow-cooked beef with ras el hanout ...... 88
Spanish-style chorizo & pipi soup ........... 80
Sri Lankan salmon curry........................... 77
Thai fish pie ............................................. 58
Warm spiced rice salad
with fried cauliflower and broccoli (v) .. 24
Wine-braised chicken
with roasted grapes ........................... 100
SWEET THINGS
Aperol spritz jellies .................................. 57
Basboussa (semolina syrup cake) ............ 90
Berries & cream jelly slice...................... 120
Caramel walnut slice.............................. 121
Chai cake with ginger cream-cheese
icing and pomegranate syrup.............. 10
Choc-hazelnut torte................................. 33
Chocolate chunk fudge
& hazelnut cookies............................... 72
Double chocolate slice .......................... 121
Flourless chocolate & cardamom cake.... 96
Gluten-free mandarin, coconut & polenta
cake with toffee mandarins.................. 74
Ginger cream with poached plums ......... 59
Latticed treacle & pecan tart ................. 108
Layered white chocolate cake ................. 71
Lemon & coconut slice .......................... 120
Lemon curd on brioche ........................... 66
Make-ahead berry souffles ...................... 55
Orange blossom cheesecake
with pomegranate syrup...................... 74
Passionfruit curd tartlets ........................ 112
Rhubarb galette..................................... 114
Salted banoffee tranche ........................ 111
Shari’s cugloaf.......................................... 90
Super indulgent
mixed berry millefeuille ..................... 111
Ultimate chocolate & raspberry tart ...... 108
Upside-down apple
& almond cake with pistachios ............ 25
Vegan banana bread muesli bars ............ 94
Vanilla ice cream.................................... 114
EXTRAS
Anneka’s simple flaky pastry.................... 72
Orange mostarda .................................... 64
Ras el hanout ........................................... 88
Semolina crackers.................................... 64
(v) denotes vegetarian dishes
IndexMAY 2014
ThanksThe Test Kitchen uses Scanpan cookware and utensils, Global knives and Cuisinart
small appliances from Sheldon & Hammond. For national stockists, tel: 1800 209 999.
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secret address book.
The acclaimed Australian chef and author shares her passion for freshproduce and food highlights from her base in London to New York.
Skye Gyngell
THE CHEF TO WATCH? There are so many
young, talented chefs emerging; I think
what Australian chef James Henry is doing
at Bones in Paris with dishes such as
cockles escabeche (left) is a great example
of where food is going at the moment.
BEST FOR BREAD? London has been slightly
behind in the market for good artisan
bakers, but it’s finally catching up with
E5 Bakehouse (left) in East London
producing some lovely sourdoughs.
BEST FOR SMALL BITES? Barrafina in
London’s Soho – it’s the most delicious
tapas I’ve eaten. With a no-bookings
policy, get there early to avoid a long wait.
If you do need to wait, it is well worth it!
WHERE I WANT TO EAT NEXT? Faviken
(top left) in Sweden, I think Magnus
Nilsson’s approach is so interesting – I have
several friends who have eaten there and
they have all come back swooning.
BEST OFF THE BEATEN TRACK? East
London’s Rochelle Canteen in Arnold
Circus, owned by Margot Henderson (wife
of chef/restaurateur Fergus) is my go-to
off-the-beaten-track restaurant. Set in
an old primary school bike shed, it is tiny
but everything on the menu is spot on.
RECENT FOODIE DISCOVERY? On a recent
trip to New York, I ate at Roberta’s (above)
in Bushwick, it had incredible sourdough
pizzas and a really lovely atmosphere.
BEST FOR PRODUCE? Spa Terminus in the
Dockley Road Industrial Estate in South
East London is the best small market.
BEST FOR SWEET CRAVINGS I make a regular
pilgrimage to Violet Cakes in London’s
Hackney. Owner Claire Ptak, who is a
former Chez Panisse pastry chef, makes
beautiful seasonal cakes and pastries
made with the best possible ingredients.
THE NEXT BIG THING... is Copenhagen. I ate
at Noma years ago and loved it and have
been back several times since. Every time
I’m excited by what I see happening there.
I ate one of the best meals at Fiskebar,
but Bror, Amass, Relae and Manfreds
& Vin are all are doing great things. d.
Skye Gyngell will be in the country for
South Australia’s Tasting Australia food
festival (April 27 – May 4). For information,
visit: tastingaustralia.com.au. PORTRAIT
PHOTOGRAPHYCAROLSACHS