footwear lining materials

Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.

Lining materials/Linings

The lining is the material inside the shoe that comes in contact with the

entire foot: the sides, top and heels. The main purpose of lining is to cover

the inside seams of the shoe and lengthen the shoe's lifespan. Linings made

out of certain materials cushion and comfort the foot or draw out moisture.

They can be made out of a variety materials.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Purpose of using lining materials

Lining is used for many purposes.

• To consolidate damaged area support.

• To strengthen the object.

• To effect certain esthetic considerations such as flattening or removing of

creases.

• To place a barrier between the object and an auxiliary support.


• To provide for temporary support during overall conservation treatment.

• To provide a structural support after removing a poor quality mount.

• To stabilize dimensional and planar movement of the support or media.

• To facilitate the handling.


Purpose of using lining materials

Quality of lining materials

• Resist abrasion with wear

• Absorb moisture & transmit

• Smooth ,Mellow & soft

• Light weight & flexible

• Resistant to mould & Fungus

• Washable to good hygienic condition

• Non-cracky & non-shrinky


Types of lining materials

A strictly scientific classification into animal, vegetable and, perhaps, synthetic

categories would not prove satisfactory or particularly helpful since the materials

used for shoe uppers may cut across these divisions. A more useful classification

is under the broad headings as they are used in the trade, i.e. Leather, fabric,

synthetics:

• Leather lining

• Fabric lining

• Synthetic liningS. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Leather lining

Leather lining is perhaps the best quality lining, but it's also the most

expensive. Leather lining feels soft on the skin and will conform to the shape

of the foot over time. It's also durable and allows air flow, letting moisture

evaporate. Although leather is the highest quality material for lining, certain

shoes, particularly athletic shoes, don't use leather lining because the leather

adds extra weight.


Sources of leather upper and lining

• Cow lining

• Split leather

• Goat Skins

• Sheep Skins

• Suede

• Mule

• Pig Skins

• Deerskin

• Bison or Buffalo hide

• Ostrich leather

• Kangaroo leather

• Eel skin

• Crocodile

• Horse


• Snake skin

• Seal Skin

• Shark skin

• Lizard

• Walrus

• Shagreen

• Yak

• Whale etc.

Cow leather

Bovine or Cowhide leather is the most abundant and common leather source.

Cowhide offers maximum value for texture, appearance, durability, and comfort.

Cowhide is easy to care for, the least expensive due to its availability and is dirt

and water resistant. Cowhide is one of the heaviest leathers making it very tough

wearing and durable featuring a pebble grain appearance. Although it can be

somewhat stiff, cowhide breaks in easily. Cow leather is used for virtually every

leather product including outerwear, jackets, casual and biker style coats, gloves,

belts, saddles, bags, furniture, straps, shoes, boots, and upholstery.


Cow leather

Calfskin is used to produce a high quality, attractive leather with a soft,

fine feel. Calfskin has a smooth surface, which is dense, lightweight,

and abrasion resistant. Calfskin takes on high luster with use and is used

in bookbinding, dresses, shoes, and straps.


Cow leather


Split leather

Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the

top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the

splitting operation, the top-grain and drop split are separated. The drop split

can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split.

In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers

until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an

artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a

leather grain (bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede.


Split leather

The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain

completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the

correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a

variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. A reversed suede is a

grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain

facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered a true suede.


Split leather


Goat Skins

They have an area of 4 to 8 sq. ft. with a coarse fibrous structure varying

between butt and belly. Substance is thick. Vegetable tanned goat skins are

used as linings.

Goat skin leather is an economical, strong and durable, with a smooth fine

grain. Goatskin is slightly softer and tougher than cow leather and is

lightweight, comfortable, supple, flexible, and water-resistant. Pigskin is used

to manufacture to gloves, casual shoes, coats, vests, bookbinding, wallets,

belts, and protective clothing. Kidskin is a very soft leather made from the

hide of a young goat.S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Goat skin


Sheep Skins

Sheep skins have loose fibrous structure, loose grain surface and light

substance with a soft feel. They have an area of 2 to 9 sq.ft and are suede

finished. The wool sheep skins can be sheared. Sheep skins are used for

linings.

Sheep skin leather is extremely soft, comfortable, and pliable. The finely

grained leather is thin and supple with a buttery texture. Sheep leather is

lightweight, warm and delicate and absorbs water well.


Sheep skin

Sheep leather’s low tear and tensile strength stretches and well and

reshapes after wearing, however it can distort with excessive use.

Because sheep skin leather drapes well and flows, it is often used to make

high-end leather garments especially coats, dresses, skirts, jackets, and

pants, as well as, vests, slippers, handbags, hats, footwear, and rugs.


Sheep skin


Suede

Mostly used as an insole lining in our men's sandal range. As suede is

actually a type of leather it is also very expensive and adds a significant

amount to the cost of the shoe. Its benefits are also similar to that of

leather but limited to the fact that it is mainly an innersole material.


Suede leather


Pig Skins

Pig skin is the leather fabric made from a pig or a hog. Pig or hog skin

leather is a dense leather similar to cowhide with a soft and supple feel and

very good durability. Pigskin is very pliable, comfortable and water

resistant with a high lanolin content to keep the glove soft after getting

wet. Pigskin is used to manufacture work gloves, shoes, boots, sportswear,

handbags, saddle seats, belts and apparel such as, shirts, blazers, and

jackets. Despite their nickname, footballs are actually made of cowhide.


Pig Skin


Deerskin

Deerskin is one of the toughest leathers available due to the thorny nature

of the animal’s natural habitats. Deerskin leather’s high tensile strength is

abrasion resistant and offers high durability. Deerskin is extremely soft and

comfortable with a spongy feel. It is lightweight, water-friendly, and

stretchy and fits well. Deerskin is more expensive and used to manufacture

gloves, shirts, dresses, hats, slippers, jackets, overcoats, sporting

equipment, handbags, wallets, and upholstery.


Deerskin


Bison or Buffalo hide

Buffalo hide is a heavy duty and durable leather and very value priced.

This leather is rugged and strong, yet soft and supple with a rubber

waxy feel. Buffalo leather features thicker fibers which are more widely

spaced and evident hair follicles creating a pebbly appearance. Bison

leather is used to make furniture, shoes, belts, bookbinding, rugs,

gloves, jackets, and baseball gloves .


Buffalo leather


Ostrich leather

Ostrich leather is much rarer, but is one of the finest and most durable

leathers. Ostrich leather is luxurious, soft, supple, and thick featuring an

exotic goose bump appearance from the large feather quill follicles. Ostrich

leather is popular in luxury fashion and is used to make boots, footwear,

upholstery, accessories, clothing, luggage, purses, wallets, and briefcases.


Ostrich leather


Eel skin

Eel skin is a very thin and elegant, which is not very strong. Eel skin

leather can be durable but requires maintenance if exposed to elements.

Eel skin is soft, shiny, and smooth with horizontal pin-stripe patterns.

This leather is actually produced from a slimy eel-like fish called the

inshore hagfish, which is caught in the wild. Eel skin becomes softer

and suppler with use and is used to make wallets and handbags.


Eel leather


Crocodile and alligator skin

Crocodile and alligator skin renders a very attractive and fashionable

leather. The leather is strong, supple, durable and very expensive. A bony

layer within the skin adds a protective shield, while a dimple on each

scale makes a very exotic look. Crocodile and alligator leather is used to

make luxury goods, handbags, wallets, boots, belts, and briefcases.

Crocodile and alligator skin


Snakeskin

Snakeskin is typically produced from venomous sea snakes which are

commercially farmed. The leather is delicate, thin, soft and flexible,

while the fine small hexagon scales produce exotic detailed grains.

Snake skin leather is used to make boots, wallets, and handbags.

Snakeskin

Kangaroo leather

Kangaroo leather is lightweight, strong and flexible with high abrasion

resistance compared to cowhide. Ostrich leather can be cut into very thin

layers which remain strong and create lighter weight garments. Ostrich

leather is made from free range wild animals and is popular in soccer

footwear, as well as, bullwhips and apparel.


Kangaroo leather


Stingray or shagreen leather

Stingray or shagreen leather is very tough with a siliceous layer on the

surface, which makes it as durable as hard plastic. Stingray leather has a

beautiful appearance and wonderful feel, which is very strong. Stingray

leather scales even protect from fire damage. The leather is usually dyed

black and covered with tiny round bumps dyed white to highlight the

decoration. Stingray leather is used for clothing, furniture, wallets, belts,

purses, and briefcases.

Stingray or shagreen leather


Sealskin

Sealskin is the skin of a seal which has been hunted.

Seal skins have been used by aboriginal people for millennia to make waterproof jackets

and boots, and seal fur to make fur coats. Sailors used to have tobacco pouches made

from sealskin. Canada, Greenland, Norway, Russia and Namibia all export sealskin. It

was traditionally used to make Scottish sporrans.

The indigenous Inuit people argue that banning seal products is detrimental to their way

of life. However, there are many objections to the use of seal skin, fur and pelts, and it is

illegal to hunt seals in many countries, particularly young seals. The value of global

sealskin exports in 2006 was over 16 million Canadian dollars.


Sealskin


Mule skin

Mule skin has a higher density than steer which gives it a very distinct and

crisp sound profile. We have several different types of mule skin which

work perfectly for many different types of drums.

Mule skin has a very bright tone and sounds controlled and tight. Slaps are

amazingly crisp.


Mule skin


Horse/Equine skin

Equine skin conditions are often difficult to diagnose and frustrating to treat,

with causes ranging from fungus to allergens to who-knows-what.

The skin is the largest organ of your horse’s body. It provides a protective

barrier against the environment, regulates temperature, and gives your horse its

sense of touch. Depending on the species and age, the skin may be 12 to 24%

of an animal’s body weight. The skin has 3 major layers: the epidermis or

outermost layer, the dermis or middle layer, and the subcutis or innermost layer.

Other important components include skin appendages (such as hair and

hooves), and subcutaneous muscles and fat.


Horse/Equine skin


Lizard leather

Lizard leather scales are remarkably water proof, and provide excellent

protection from the elements. Pesky stains shan’t be nearly as much of a

threat to lizard skin as to other leathers, although this shouldn’t be your cue

to take it for granted. Those scales are rooted in place by a well lubricated

membrane beneath them, which they are charged with protecting. Should

that membrane dry up, the scales can pop off, which really doesn’t bode

well for the aesthetics. Try not to take lizard leather out under excessive

weather conditions, such as rain. If it does get wet, just blot up the moisture

with a dry, clean cloth or paper towel.S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Lizard leather


Walrus leather

Leather produced from any fur bearing swimming mammal such as the

Atlantic walrus (Odobenus rosmarus), Pacific walrus (Odobenus abesus),

sea lion (Zalophus caliifornianus) or seal (Callorhinus alascanus). All are

called walrus leather because, once processed, the skins are difficult to

distinguish. Walrus hides are thick, tough, and smooth. Due to the scarcity

of the animals at the end of the 20th century, most commercial walrus

leathers were imitations made from embossed and

grained sheepskins, goatskins, or cowhides.S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Walrus leather


Shark leather

Shark leather is world known for its rough, course texture. In the coarser

developments of shark skin, it has been used like sandpaper for polishing.

However, the finer tanned shark skins are used for shoes, handbags, and

other leather items. Highly sought after, these skins are by-products from

fishing villages and international cuisine.

All of our leather is coming from non-endangered and non-threatened

shark species and no CITES is required. Currently, we’re offering black fin

species in 1 to 4 oz thickness in a rough or soft-tanned presentation.


Shark leather


Some other animal sources used for leather include boar, elk, donkey,

ox, whale, and yak.


Whale Donkey

Other sources of leather

Ox Yak



Elk



Fabric

Fabric is the most common lining material, particularly cotton and viscose.

Cotton and viscose are both extremely breathable fabrics that absorb

moisture, making shoes more comfortable and sterilized. Even if a pair of

shoes is worn regularly, if it's lined with cotton or viscose it will likely

retain its shape. Cotton and other natural fabrics are certainly breathable,

but not as breathable as leather.


Fabrics are made out of yarn and are classified as woven, non-woven and

knitted. Natural fibres of cotton, jute and synthetic fibres such as nylon, terylene

and so on are used, in fabric manufacture. Fabrics are extensively used as upper

materials, linings, inter-linings and backers. Fabrics are manufactured and sold

in rolls.

Fabrics, are woven from yarns which run at right angles to each other. Warp

threads are those which run the width of the fabric. Warp threads stretch less but

possess more tensile strength. Weft threads stretch more but have less strength as

compared to warp threads.


Types of fabric lining

• Woven Fabrics

• Knitted fabrics

• Non-woven Fabrics


Woven Fabrics

Warp fabrics have good strength and low elongation at break. This has

the disadvantage of breaking during wear in certain shoe constructions.

The fabrics are cut in bias (diagonal) direction, for use as tapes and top

line bindings.


Knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics have high stretch but low strength. These are used in

slipper and casual shoes, as insole coverings. The disadvantages being

raw edges fray.


Non-woven Fabrics

Non-woven fabrics are produced by a random arrangement of fibres.

Woolen felts, needle felts, and bonded fibres are used in non-woven

fabrics. In woolen felts the fibres are milled and pressed to lock the protein

fibres together. Needle felts are obtained when the fibres are tangled

together by repeatedly thrusting binder or adhesive to hold the fibres

together. Bonded fibres are also known as impregnated non-woven and

when abraded gives a finish similar to suede with leather like appearance

and touch.


Non-woven Fabrics


Synthetic

Synthetic materials like polyester, acrylic and elastane are very common

materials for shoe linings, but they hardly absorb any moisture. The only

reason shoe manufacturers use these synthetic materials is to cut costs.

Synthetic lining causes odor and breaks down more quickly than fabric, and

much more quickly than leather.

Artificial leathers are synthetic materials with leather like appearances and

feel, mostly used for shoe uppers and linings. A few of these materials have

physical properties to certain extent similar to leather.


The materials available as coated fabrics. They have a coating of

polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) on a fabric. The fabric may

be natural or synthetic, or a blend of both. The coatings can be coloured,

printed or embossed giving an attractive finish with leather like appearance.

The coated fabrics are produced by either transfer film process or direct

coating process. The direct coating process is also known as coagulation

method. The expanded products viz. expanded PU and expanded PVC are

obtained by incorporating a blowing agent in addition to plasticizer.


Types of synthetic

• PVC coated fabrics

• Polyurethane coated Fabrics


PVC coated fabrics

These are classified into solid, expanded and microporous vinyls. The

expanded vinyls are produced by incorporating a blowing agent; into vinyl

paste resin (a fine powder) and a plasticizer (a colourless liquid), mixed in

proportion to obtain paste of required viscosity, heated to obtain a “gelled”

material. Stabilizers are added to reduce decomposition, pigments to colour,

fillers to modify the properties and reduce the price. These fabrics are

manufactured by 1. Direct application of PVC to the fabric and 2. By

transfer coating.


PVC coated fabric


Polyurethane coated Fabrics

PU coated fabrics usually consists of non-woven fabric backer, impregnated

with polyurethane to give a microporous structure. The top of the coated

fabric is given a lacquer coating. Also known as poromerics, are

microporous permeable materials with leather like appearance. These upper

and lining materials possesses moisture absorption and permeability

properties to certain extent similar to natural leather. The backer or substrate

is non-woven fabric—a raised twill. The fibres are teared out to form a pile

to impart leather like surface to the fabric.


The top skin PU is formulated by the reaction of a polymer, (polyester or

polyether) with an isocyanate (TDI or MDI). The film is coloured by pigment

dispersions. A spray of lacquer coat on the top of the coated fabric imparts

gloss or wet look to the coated fabric. In practice the PU solution with a

mixer of dimethyl formate and methyl-ethyl ketone, is applied on a release

paper. The solution is spread evenly on the paper by knives. It passes through

ovens where the solvent evaporates. PU adhesive is applied and spread

uniformly on the PU films. The fabric is pressed on the adhesive by its pile

side.S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

The release paper is separated and can be reused again. In another method,

PU solution in a solvent dimethyl formate of low viscosity is impregnated

into the fabric. The solution also contains colouring material and other

materials. The solvent is then gradually removed by passing the fabric

through tanks containing PU solution, mixture of water and PU solution

and then water. Thus the solvent is gradually removed. PU is dispersed

within the fabric. The coated fabric is printed and embossed, if required,

sprayed by lacquer and finished metallic, pearl, rub off and so on.


PU coated fabric


Coated fabrics are used for uppers, linings, heel grips, sock linings,

quarter linings, slipper uppers and in sports shoes.


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Presented by:

S. M. Murshidur Rahman

Department of Leather Engineering,

Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.

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