fret cutting and perforated carving, with practical instructions...

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SIXTH EDITION

BEMR0SE& S0NS.2I.PATERN0STER

LONDON.AND at DERBY.

PREFACE.

HE Author of the " Manual of Wood Carving," having received many letters of

encouragement from Amateurs who have benefited by the instructions conveyed

in that Work, has determined upon the publication of a Ninth and Improved Edition, in

order to meet the increasing demand.

This cordial reception has also induced him to offer to the Public the present

volume ; in which the Sister-art of Fret-Cutting and Perforated-Carving are practically

explained and illustrated, for the guidance of that large class of Amateurs whose time, or

inclination, does not permit them to attempt the more elaborate designs comprised in the

former work. It is believed that much pleasure and amusement for leisure hours may be

derived from the practice of this easy, yet graceful and useful art ; the Author therefore

hopes that his later instructions and examples will be found no less useful than the "Manual

of Wood Carving," to those who study an accomplishment by no means difficult, although

susceptible of developing manual dexterity and taste to a very considerable extent.

FRETWORK

flRETWORK, or Perforated-Carving, is an agreeable, useful, and ornamental Art to

practice, and one that can be easily accomplished by either lady or gentleman

;

it has also the further advantage of being an employment for leisure moments,

which is neither expensive, nor one that requires a special apartment, as it can be practised

in any room, and upon an ordinary table, provided it be tolerably firm.

TOOLS.

HE Tools required are few and inexpensive. They consist of a.bow, or Buhl saw,

No. I ; a dozen or two spare saw blades, the woodcut No. 2 will show the most

useful sizes. The saw blade should be fixed in the bow, or frame, with the teeth

downwards, as the cutting is done with the downward stroke only ; No. 2 will be the best

size for a beginner to use. One or two awls, No. 3, or an Archimedian drill tool, No. 4,

or, for fine work, the Improved drill tool, No. 5 (the latter to be preferred) ; two smooth

wood files ; a holdfast, No. 6, being the one best adapted for light work, and when an

ordinary table is used to work upon. As the holdfast No. 7 requires a bench with a hole

in the centre, in which to insert the shaft, it is only adapted for use on a carving bench.

The shaft of the holdfast having been inserted in the hole, the knob is then placed upon the

wood to be operated upon, and the screw at the top tightened until the wood is held firmly.

This holdfast will hold wood of almost any shape, and also when placed at a considerable

angle ; a small glue kettle, the glue to set the broken parts, as however careful the amateur

may be, breakages will occur. The glue must be applied hot, and the pieces to be fastened

together should be tied with string where practicable, or held together by the thumb and

fingers until the glue is set—if large pieces, the holdfast No. 7 will be found most useful in

pressing the two pieces together ; a few sheets of glass cloth, and a work board, or as it is

generally called, a "horse," which consists of a piece of wood about three quarters of an

inch in thickness, 15 inches wide, and 18 inches long, with two pieces cut out at opposite

ends, and nearer to one side than the other, and forming in shape the letter V> one opening

being two and a half inches wide, and four inches long, the other one inch wide, and two

and a half inches long—the later being for finer work. The parts not cut away support

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FRETWORK.

the work while it is being operated upon. The " horse" is screwed to the table, over which

it projects, by the holdfast No. 6, or to the bench by No. 7.

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(2)No. 6.

No, 2.No. 7.

No. 5.

No. 3. No. 8.

J

Although an ordinary table answers most purposes, there is no doubt that a strong

work bench, as shown in the accompanying illustration,

is far preferable. This improved bench measures 36

inches by 22 inches, and is fitted with a drawer for

tools, a bench screw at the end, and several bench pegs,

which admit all sizes of work to be held firmly whilst

being carved ; if for a small piece of wood, the peg

nearest to the screw is knocked up to the required

height, the piece is then placed between it and the screw

Carving and Fret-Cutting Bench.peg-; ancj screwed up tight. The bench screw at the end

is also adapted for holding wood in a perpendicular position for Fret-Cutting, a method

preferred to that adopted when the " horse " is used, especially where the wood is very

thick, and a heavier saw used. In this case, the wood is not pressed against the saw,

but as in the ordinary method of sawing, the saw is pressed against the wood. The

hole in the centre of the bench is for the insertion of the holdfast No. 7, as shown in

the illustration.

There are now a variety of good machines for Fret-Cutting,

sawing, drilling, &c, from £4 and upwards, worked by the foot on

a treadle, in a similar manner to the sewing machine.

However gifted an individual may be with manual dexterity,

there is no doubt that the same individual by the aid of machinery

becomes doubly dexterous. This truth certainly applies with great

force to Fret-workers ; and to such we recommend the improved

saw-frame, as shown in the opposite woodcut.,

Its advan-

tages are great when compared with the hand saw-frame and

" horse." Thus, the saw blade is always parallel with the work, the

pieces will easily fall out, and, in cutting marquetry the design willImproved Saw-Frame.

FRETWORK. -/

always fit correctly into the groundwork, without any "gapes"

or misfits.

The saw is more easily and correctly governed, because the

bow part of the saw is held firmly in the parallel position on a

sliding bar.

The work being held firmly in an upright position by the

" holder " is not so liable to break, and the eye has only to see

that the design is followed, the movement of the saw being

simply a mechanical motion.

The " holder " is pressed by the knee whilst heavier work

is being sawn.

Fret-Cutting and Boring Machine. If one of the more expensive perpendicular motion

machines is adopted, the method of working is as follows. If the machine is provided

with a drill, place the wood with the design upwards under the drill, and drill all the

holes required. Then insert the loose end of the saw and re-fasten it, proceed to cut

the design out, moving the wood by both hands up to the saw, turning it in the

required direction of the design.

WOOD.T is of great importance for the Amateur to make choice of suitable wood, which

should be well seasoned, and free from shakes and knots. The woods best

adapted for Fretwork are Oak, Walnut, Lime, Chestnut, Peartree, Mahogany,

and Rosewood ; or, for very fine work, Box and Ebony. The thickness of the wood

will vary according to the purpose to which the object will be applied. From a quarter

to three-eighths of an inch is perhaps the most useful thickness.

HOW TO CUT THE WOOD,

jjjJSit is probable that the Amateur will not desire to destroy the book by using the

designs themselves (any of the designs can be had separately, at 3d., 6d., and 9d.

each for this purpose, from the Publishers), a tracing will be required, which is

to be fixed on the wood. For this purpose, procure a piece of tracing paper, the size of

the design, and proceed carefully to trace the outline of the design in ink or pencil ; and

to avoid the risk of sawing out a part of the design that should be left in, it is advisable

to adopt the simple method of making a few rough strokes, with the pen or pencil, over

the parts which are to be removed. When once a design is cut in wood, an easy method

of obtaining further copies for fastening to the wood, is by placing a sheet of paper on the

pattern, and rubbing it lightly with "heel-ball;"* this will give the pattern in black, and

the white spaces will require cutting out. Care will be required that the paper does

not move about during the operation.

* Obtainable at most Boot Makers.

FRETWORK.

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The design is now ready for affixing to the wood, which should first be planed

smooth on both sides. %• If the wood is very thin, two or more pieces may be cut at

the same time, providing they are fastened together, by pasting * or glueing a piece of

soft paper, the size of the wood, on both sides, and placing it between the pieces

;

leaving them under pressure until dry. When disunion is desired they may be easily

separated by the insertion of a table knife in the joints, and by gently pressing it forward

the paper will be found to split until the pieces are forced asunder. Another method often

adopted is as follows :—at each corner, and elsewhere if required, press a "French Brad,"

or a drawing pin through the several thicknesses of wood. In this instance, the pasted

or glued paper is not required.

The next operation is to drill one or two holes with the awl, No. 3, or Archi-

median drill tool, Nos. 4 and 5, in every part of the design which requires cutting away,

as shown on Fig. 1 ; this done, place the wood with the design upwards, on the "horse,"

(providing the Amateur does not possess a Fret-cutting Machine), the first part to be

operated upon, which should be the outside of the design, being placed over the V shaped

opening ; the bow of the saw being to the right hand. Move the saw gently up and down,

directing the wood in such a manner as to get on to the nearest line of the design, and

follow the same. The wood must be moved by the left hand, pressing and turning it in the

required direction, against the saw, as the latter is

being moved up and down by the right hand. The

operator should be seated lower than his work, which

should be on a level with his breast, and the saw

held quite perpendicular; if not, the underneath por-

tion of the pattern will be smaller or larger than the

top, and the piece of wood will not drop out, as it

ought to do if the pattern is correctly cut. Whenbacking the saw, to get to the drilled hole for a

fresh start, in case the design does not admit of the

saw following at once, move it backwards, as if in

the act of sawing, and so start again in another

direction, as shown by the dotted lines on Fig. 1. A little grease orsoap applied now and

then to the saw blade will facilitate the cutting very much. The outside of the design

being completed, proceed to remove the inner parts, by unscrewing the top end of the saw

blade, and passing the loose end through the drilled hole ; then screw up the blade until

it is tightfthe handle being beneath the wood about to be operated upon. Proceed then

to follow the design, until that particular part is removed ; then unscrew the saw blade,

and proceed as before directed. The edges of the design must now be filed up, where

required, until all the inequalities, left by the saw, are removed.

* Paste is made by mixing flour and water together, stirring it until it boils or stiffens. Starch paste is made

by pouring boiling water on starch, then thoroughly mixing it ; it is easier to make, and for many purposes is

preferable to flour paste.

FRETWORK. C

Some Fret Cutters prefer the work held in an upright

position. To meet this want, the Improved Holder will be found a

capital invention. It can be applied to any ordinary table, at a

moment's notice. It holds the work in an upright position, but at

the same time admits of its being turned about as required. Theknee is pressed against it when used for heavy work ; otherwise

the India Rubber Spring will be found sufficiently strong for

holding ordinary Fretwork.Improved Holder.

The whole design being cut, the paper is removed by slightly damping and peeling

it off. Great care must be exercised to avoid wetting the wood ; in case the wood should

warp or bend, at any time, one of the following methods will, with care, bring it straight

again—viz. : (i.) holding the convex or rounded side a short distance from the fire ; or

(2) slightly damping the concave, or hollow side only, and placing it under a small weight

until it is straight.

STAINING AND POLISHING.

HE next operation will be to oil, stain, or polish the work ; this should be done

before it is put together, as it is impossible to polish the corners of made-up

work. For oiling, boiled linseed oil should be rubbed over it, and when nearly

dry rub it over with a stiff brush.

There are various stains. A simple one is made by mixing finely-ground burnt

umber with beer, adding black to obtain the darker shades ; this should also be rubbed

over with a stiff brush before it is dry. Bicromate of potash diluted with water to the

required shade, should be applied with a brush, ~as~"it not only stains wood effectually,

but also the hands ; it is therefore advisable to wear gloves and so avoid touching it with

the fingers. An oil stain is made by some druggists and colourmen, and is preferable to

most others, from the fact that it does not raise the grain of the wood, as is the case with

other stains in which oil is not the liquid used in mixing with the colour. If varnish is

preferred, it must be applied, lightly and evenly, with a flat camel hair brush, and more

than one application will be required. There are several kinds of- varnish, varying in

colour, which must be used according to the colour of the wood.

To polish well requires considerable practice, and, as the operation is neither clean

nor pleasant, the amateur is recommended to employ a polisher. However, if the carver

desires to polish his own work, the method is as follows :—In the first place see that the

flat surfaces are perfectly smooth, if not sufficiently so the glass-paper must be again

applied, as it is impossible to varnish on a rough surface. Having obtained the polish

—

light or dark, according to the colour of the wood—soak a small bit of tow, or cotton wool,

in the polish, and apply it, evenly, to the wood ; then add more polish to the cotton wool,

b ut before applying it to the wood, place it inside a piece of linen rag, on which put a drop

-

*

to /'

IO CARVED FRETWORK.

or two of sweet oil—this prevents the rag from sticking—then rub the wood, giving a

circular motion to the rag, and repeat the supply of polish and oil as required, until the

whole surface is uniformly polished. As little oil as possible must be used ; the exact

quantity can only be learnt by experience. As a rule, the rag should feel slightly " tacky,"

or sticky, when touched by the finger in applying the oil. Some woods receive the polish

better by applying it at two or three different times, allowing some hours to intervene

between each application. As only flat or other surfaces which can be got at freely can be

French polished, the other parts must be " brush polished," that is, have what is called

brush polish applied with a camel hair brush, as thin and even as possible ; care must be

taken to avoid the application of this polish on the French polish already on the flat parts

of the work.

CARVED FRETWORK

IMPLE Fretwork, of good design, is rich and pleasing to the eye, but this effect is

greatly increased when the aid of the Carving tools is called in, to further embellish

it ; and, it being advisable that the amateur, after having mastered the simple art

of Fretwork, should proceed to the more advanced operation of Wood Carving, a few words

of instruction will be needed.* Most of the designs here given are adapted to this purpose,

and examples are given showing the Fretwork in relief.

CARVING TOOLSAP

UT few additional Carving Tools will be required to further embellish Fretwork.i

The impressions made by the tools and their shapes are shown in the illustrations;

there are several sizes of each kind of tool, and it will be well to have two or three

sizes of each, viz. :

—

Entering Chisel (spoon shape). For levelling the ground-

work in confined spaces, and where a flat chisel

cannot be used.

Entering Gouge (spoon shape). For hollowing out the

undulations in foliage, &c.

Parting Tool. For the veining of leaves, or cutting the

outline of a design.

* For further instructions in this Art, see "Manual of Wood Carving;" 410., Neat Cloth. Illustrated with up-

wards cf 130 designs. Bemrose and Sons, 21, Paternoster Row, London ; and Derby ; and all Booksellers.

CARVED FRETWORK. II

Bent Parting Tool. For the same purposes as the last-

mentioned tool, where a straight tool cannot be used :

as in the hollow of a leaf.

Maccaroni Tool. For removing wood on each side of a

stalk or vein of a leaf.

Skew or Comer Chisel. For removing wood out of the

corners of a design, where an ordinary chisel is use-

less.

Carving Chisel. For cutting round the design on com-

mencing to carve, also for removing superfluous wood

and grounding.

Carving Gouge. For cutting curves and removing super-

fluous wood.

Double bent Fluting Gouge. For removing wood from the

hollows of leaves, &c, where a straight gouge cannot

be used.

Oil Stone -(Arkansas preferred), and slips or smaller stones to fit the inside of the gouges.

Unless the tools are " set " or sharpened when purchased, they will require to be ground

on a grindstone ; and as but few amateurs will possess one, it will be well to have them

ground and "set" by a wood-carver or cabinet-maker. In "setting" the tools, apply a few

drops of sweet oil to the Arkansas stone, and take care not to hold the tool too perpen-

dicularly. In using the gouge slip it should be spanned by the thumb and finger of

the right hand, and the underside of the slip applied to the inside of the tool, which

should be held firmly by the left hand, at rest, both elbows close to the side. If these

instructions are carefully followed, the're is little danger of cutting the fingers. One side

of a gouge slip should be ground so as to fit the Parting and Maccaroni tools. Too much

attention cannot be given to the state and care of the tools, as neither pleasure in using,

nor good work can proceed from dull instruments. In addition to the above it will be

necessary to have glued to a piece of wood, a strip of thick and soft buff leather, about

12 inches by 3 inches, which should be well moistened with sweet oil, dusting on it

some fine emery powder. The tools may be drawn over it occasionally, in the intervals

of use. The tools are best kept separate, either in wooden trays, or placed under loops

of elastic sewn on to a piece of flannel or leather, with a flap on each side to prevent them

slipping out when the case is rolled up and not in use.

The Fretwork about to be carved, should be fastened to a piece of soft waste wood,

somewhat larger than the Fretwork, in the manner already described, and the wood held

to the table by the holdfast. This method supports each tender leaf or stem whilst it is

being carved, which otherwise would not admit of the operation of carving, from its fragile

nature. The grain of the wood must be observed, not merely as to whether the carver is

cutting across or along the grain, but whether up or down (as in planing), so that the

12 CARVED FRETWORK.

chips may come out clean, instead of tearing deeper than is wished. In case the tool does

not cut clean, cut from an opposite direction, or sideways.

In using glass-cloth care must be taken not to rub the edges of the work so as to

round them, as this spoils the good effect of all carving. Avoid its use altogether if

possible. In glass-papering flat surfaces, place the glass-paper round a piece of flat cork

I inch thick and 3 or 4 inches square. Ox**- ftx £-i> &. C#Vk. £W6&r-*<t> l^

The handle of the Carving tool should be held firmly in the right hand, the left

hand resting on the tool in front, and being hollowed, so that the points of the fingers and

the wrist rest on the work to steady the tool when carving by pressure, the left thumb

being under the tool. This not only steadies the pressure applied by the right hand, but

also prevents the tool slipping forward. If these instructions are followed, there can be no

danger of injury either to the hands or work.

The various methods of staining, varnishing, and polishing, have already been

described.

SUGGESTIONS AND EXPLANATIONS OF THE DESIGNS.

|ANY of the designs are drawn to show carved Fretwork : if the design is required

for plain Fretwork, the outline of the design only is used;

if it is further intended

to embellish it by carving, the shading and veining of the leaves, &c, will give the

necessary information.

Some Fretwork is greatly improved by scarlet,- crimson, or other coloured cloth or

velvet being placed behind it—as in the door of the Key or Trinket Cupboard Fig. 28

—

or by placing dark wood before or on light-coloured wood, and vice versa, as in the

Envelope Box, Figs. 14, 16, 20.

Book-rests and Table-easels will require supports ; these are made by screwing to

the back of the book-rest or easel a pair of small brass hinges, to which two legs or props

are screwed, so that when not in use the supports will fall close to the back. The shelf is

screwed on from the back ; this can also be made to fold up by using hinges instead of

screws.

Brackets are often made to fold up. This is accomplished by using small hinges,

instead of screws, in fastening together the three pieces, viz. :—the back, shelf, and front

support. The front support is exactly one-half of that part of the design below the shelf,

and the distance it projects decides the width of the shelf.

Figs. 29, 30.—Reading-desk with natural wood hinge, which is not only a curiosity,

but a neat and strong hinge. It is made as follows:—Procure a piece of wood, 14J in.

by 9! in., | in. thick ; mark off carefully the spaces as shown in Figs. 29, 30, on both

sides, then saw down to A from each end, with an ordinary joiner's saw, as shown on the

fection, Fig. 29, then cut off a piece 7 inches from the top on one side—what is left forms

the shelf ; from the lower part of the same side saw off 2|- inches from the bottom—this

forms the front support ; now with the carving chisel remove the wood out of eveiy other

space, in a slanting direction, until the " sawgate " is reached, then turn over the piece of

wood, and cut away every other space, taking care that it is left solid on this side zu/iere

it is hollowed out on the other. On the whole being cut down to the " sawgate," a strong

natural hinge will be made without the aid of a rivet or screw.

Figs. 42 to 45.—Bread and Butter Platters. These designs are suitable for either

cutting out of the solid, or letting in a dark thin piece of wood, fretted out to the design

;

in the latter case the wood let in will require holding in its place with one or two small

pins, and must be removed when the platter is about to be washed.

* Additional designs for various useful and ornamental articles are being continually brought out, and can be

obtained from the Publishers, and the principal dealers in Fretwork tools and patterns.

.

-

-

-

LIST OF DESIGNS.

Fig.

i Book Slide.

2 Ditto.

3 Bracket.

4 Ditto.

5 Book Rest.

6 Table Mat, or Panel for Window Plant Box.

7 Bracket.

8 Paper Knives, 4 designs.

9 Hand Mirror.

10 Card Basket, 4 designs.

11 Letter Rack.

12 Card Basket, 4 designs.

13 Blotting Book Side.

14 End of Envelope Box. (See Fig. 16 and 20.)

15 Thermometer Plate, or Finger Plate for Door.

16 Lid of Envelope Box. (See Fig. 14 and 20.)

17 Ornament for top of Wire Window Blind.

18 Picture Frame.

19 Book Side.

20 Front of Envelope Box. (See Fig. 14 and 16.)

21 Ornament for top of Wire Window Blinds.

22 Mirror Frame.

23 Panel.

24 Photograph Frame.

Fig.

25

26

27

28

29

3°

3i,

33

34,

36,

33,

40

4i

42,

44>

46

47

48,

5 1

5 2

S3

Photograph Frame.

Table Easel.

Table Mat.

Key and Trinket Cupboard

Reading Desk, with Wood Hinges.

Ditto.

32 Finger Plates for Doors.

Hand Mirror.

35 Flower-pot Cover, 2 designs.

37 Ditto ditto.

39 Hanging Book Shelves.

Paper Knife.

Table Mat, or Picture Frame.

43 Butter Platters, \ size.

45 Bread Platters, \ size.

Dragon-fly Bracket.

Corner Bracket.

49, 50 Paper Knives.

Photograph Frame.

Book Side,

Bracket, showing Carved Fretwork.

Picture, or Mirror Frame, showing Carved

Fretwork. (See Title Page.)

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FRONT OF ENVELOPE BOX FIG. 20.

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fret cutting and perforated carving, with practical instructions...

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