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Newfoundland

& Labrador



C O N T E N T S

LIST OF MAPS vi

1 THE BEST OF NEWFOU NDLAND & LABRADO R 1

1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . . . . .22 The Best Spots for Observing

Wildlife & Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 The Best Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 The Most Picturesque Villages. . . . . .65 The Best Hikes & Walking Tours. . . . .8

6 The Best Family Activities. . . . . . . . . . .8

7 The Best Places to DiscoverLocal History & Culture. . . . . . . . . . . .10

8 The Best Festivals & SpecialEvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

9 The Best Hotels & Resorts . . . . . . . . .1310 The Best Bed & Breakfasts,

& Heritage Inns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1411 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

2 NEWFOUND LAND & LABRADO R IN DEPTH 17

1 Newfoundland & Labrador Today. .17 Dictionary of Newfoundland

English. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Native Inhabitants of Newfoundland & Labrador . . . . . . . . .20

2 Looking Back at Newfoundland &Labrador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

The Little Man from Gambo . . . . . . . .24

Dateline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Canine Companions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

4 Newfoundland & Labrador inPopular Culture: Books, Film &Music. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

5 Eating & Drinking inNewfoundland & Labrador. . . . . . . .32

3 PLAN NING YOUR TRIP TONEWFOUND LAND & LABRADOR 34

1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Newfoundland & Labrador

Calendar of Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Passport Cards: The New Way

to Enter Canada for U.S. Citizens. . . .39

3 Getting There & GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Destination Newfoundland and Labrador: Pre-Departure Checklist. . .42

4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .455 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47



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6 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .497 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .49

What Things Cost inNewfoundland & Labrador . . . . . . . . .49

8 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 General Resources for Green

Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

9 Special Interest Trips & EscortedGeneral Interest Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Ask Before You Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5610 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Online Traveler’s Toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . .57 Frommers.com: The Complete

Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5911 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . .59

4 SUGGESTED NEWFOUNDLAND &LABRADOR ITINERARIES 62

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .622 Newfoundland & Labrador

in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .663 Newfoundland & Labrador

in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

4 An Extended Weekendin St. John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71

5 Exploring the West & Labrador . . . .736 Newfoundland & Labrador

for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75

5 ST. JOHN’S 77

1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .782 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78

Fast Facts: St. John’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .833 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .844 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90

Dining Money Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Fi’ n’ Chi’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .945 Exploring St. John’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96

Spa at the Monastery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Step Back in Time at Petty

Harbour/Maddox Cove . . . . . . . . . . . .1016 Festivals & Special Events. . . . . . . . 1037 Outdoor Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Grand Concourse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1058 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

9 St. John’s After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

6 AVALON PENINSULA 111

1 Irish Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 The Sights & Sounds of Ireland. . . . .115 Lighthouses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116

Graveyard of the Atlantic . . . . . . . . . .1182 Cape Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

3 Baccalieu Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1234 Conception Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 East Coast Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129

Hiking Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130

7 EASTERN REGION 131

1 Bonavista Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Clarenville’s Geese. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134

Camping on the BonavistaPeninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137



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Random Passage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1382 Burin Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Ghosts of Days Gone By. . . . . . . . . . . .144 A Little Bit of France, Just Off

the Coast of Newfoundland . . . . . . .147

Cod Fishing and the Grand Banks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149

3 Terra Nova National Park . . . . . . . . 149

8 CENTRAL REGION 158

1 Gander. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1582 Kittiwake Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Fogo Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167

3 Grand Falls–Windsor . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

4 Baie Verte Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1715 South Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Conne River Mi’kmaq Reserve. . . . . .173

9 WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND 175

1 Port aux Basques toStephenville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

The Last French Stronghold. . . . . . . .1792 Corner Brook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

3 Deer Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1824 Gros Morne National Park . . . . . . . 184 Gros Morne Theatre Festival . . . . . . .190

5 Northern Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Moose Can Be Hazardous to

Your Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Walking Trails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197

Creating New Money fromOld Traditions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Roadside Peculiarities. . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Escape to Quirpon Island . . . . . . . . . .205

10 LABRADOR 207

1 Labrador Straits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Understanding the Labrador

Flag. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211 Bakeapples. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2162 Happy Valley–Goose Bay . . . . . . . . 220

Festivals & Special Events . . . . . . . . . .2223 Churchill Falls to Labrador

West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Navigating the Trans-Labrador

Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2234 Nunatsiavut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

11 FAST FACTS 228

1 Fast Facts: Newfoundland &Labrador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228

2 Airline, Hotel & Car RentalWebsites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

INDEX 233

General Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . 241

Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242



L I S T O F M A P S

Looking back at Newfoundland &Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Newfoundland & Labrador . . . . . . . . 64Newfoundland and Labrador in

1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Newfoundland and Labrador in

2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69An Extended Weekend inSt. John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Exploring the West andLabrador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

Newfoundland and Labrador forFamilies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

Downtown St. John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Avalon Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Eastern Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Terra Nova National Park . . . . . . . . 150

Central Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160Western Newfoundland . . . . . . . . .177Gros Morne National Park . . . . . . .186Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208



1The Best of

Newfoundland & Labrador

You’ve done the Florida sun, the European tour, the Caribbean cruise,and the all-inclusive resort, but what you really want is something different. You want toexperience something natural and untamed, to relax and rejuvenate without resorting tolaziness. You want to cr eate your own vacation memories, not r eenact someone else ’sitinerary. You yearn for a place unlike any other , somewhere that hasn’t been sanitizedand packaged for official tourist consumption. Well, now you’ve found it: Newfoundlandand Labrador, the Far East of the Western world.

Here, in Canada’s youngest and most easterly province, a world of unique adventuresawaits. What’s around the next bend in the highway? Could it be a pictur esque fishingvillage? A br eaching humpback? A glistening iceberg? A friendly little cafe ser ving codtongues? There’s no script or schedule here, so you never know what you’ll find when youstart to explore. The key word here is “explore”—some of your most treasured memories will be found on the roads less traveled.

The rustic majesty that is N ewfoundland and Labrador can be summed up in two words: “people” and “ place.” Both ar e unforgettable. The inhabitants of this isolatedlocale are as real as it gets. They are unpretentious, thoughtful, and witty. They’ll charmyou with their accents and their generous spirit. Though their lifestyle is neither opulentnor lavish, they will nev er hesitate to help a person in need. I t comes from living in aharsh environment, where a helping hand can make the difference between survival andsome other, ugly, alternative.

Newfoundland and Labrador’s landscape and its animal inhabitants are equally remark-able. There are fjords and mountain vistas of stunning beauty . P laces where sky meets

horizon in blazing color, and where stands of spruce flow in an evergreen sea. Here, salmonlaunch themselves against the current and traffic slows for road-hopping rabbits. It is a place where howling winds have blown trains off their tracks and arctic air chills your backbone. As any local will tell y ou, this is the most blessedly cursed union of land, sea, air , and sky on creation. Come here once, and you’ll have a perpetual longing to return.

Up until the last decade, Newfoundland was virtually undiscovered as a tourist desti-nation. Even most Canadians hadn’t been to “the Rock.” But over the past 10 y ears, theprovince has put great effort into promoting itself throughout North America and on theglobal stage. Newfoundland and Labrador has revealed itself to the world as an exciting,

unique, and even trendy destination.So, be patient as you make your way throughout Newfoundland and Labrador, under-standing that tourism is a ne w industry for the pr ovince and that ser vices are not asabundant as they are in certain other locales. And really, isn’t that why you’re coming herein the first place?

Note: The following pages are designed to give you a quick overview of the best New-foundland and Labrador has to offer . Wherever possible, I hav e included at least oneattraction per category for every region of the province.



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• Walk the str eets of do wntown S t. John’s: S t. J ohn’s is one of the mostinteresting and visually ex citing citiesI’ve ever been to. The downtown core isrelatively compact, and many of the topsights can be found within a 4-block radius of the harbor. See chapter 5.

• Stand on top of Signal Hill:You liter-ally have a city at y our feet when y oustand at the base of Cabot Tower (walk around the tower to the other side, andyou’ll be gazing do wn at the br oadexpanse of the Atlantic Ocean). It’s oneof those must-see pilgrimages for any visitor to the capital city, and even for agood many local residents. See chapter 5,p. 99.

• Watch the sun come up at C apeSpear: On this, the most easterly point

in North America, a spectacular sunrise,swirling sur f, and pictur esque light-house make Cape S pear the per fectlocation for an unforgettable marriageproposal. Find your inner romantic; seechapter 5, p. 100.

• Dance the night away on G eorgeStreet: With the most pubs per capitain N orth America, the fun continues

long after the sun has set in S t. John’s.There’s something for ev eryone onGeorge S treet (rap , jazz, traditional,contemporary, and mor e). F ind y ourfavorite nighttime hot spot in “S t. John’s After Dark,” in chapter 5.

• Get sprayed by the Spout:This naturalgeyser shoots saltwater mor e than 60m(197 ft.) into the air. You’ll be wet, cold,and tired by the time you get there . . .and you won’t even notice. You’ll be tooawestruck by every step along the spec-tacular East Coast Trail. For directions,see chapter 6, p. 129.

• Experience an activ e ar chaeologicaldig at the Colony of Avalon:Walk theoldest cobblestone str eet in N orth

America and see ar tifacts from a 16th-century settlement. You’ll learn aboutancient battles for pr operty ownershipand skirmishes with marauding priv a-teers. See chapter 6, p. 117.

• Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of B ird Rock: After a shor t walk across tundra, you’llfeel like y ou’ve reached the end of the world on that cliff o verlooking B irdRock at Cape S t. M ary’s E cological

Reserve.I magine gazing into the ey esof thousands of squawking gannetsnearly within arm’s reach! See chapter 6,p. 122.

• Dig into history at Bell Island:It’s justa 30-minute boat ride fr om P ortugalCove, but it’s a giant step back in time when you explore the abandoned ir on-ore mines of B ell Island. Or step back

even farther, with a scuba-diving expe-dition to the wr eckage of sunken shipsthat surr ound the island ’s perimeter .Find out ho w y ou can organiz e y ourown Bell Island adventure in chapter 6,p. 128.

• Get carried away b y Rising Tide: Here’s pr ofessional theater in bothindoor and outdoor venues, in the heart

of N ewfoundland’s most visually his-torical community, Trinity. Whether it’sthe comedic characters of the N ew Founde Lande Trinity P ageant or thehaunting tragedy of a mor e seriousdramatic production, you’re sure to beimpressed b y the Rising Tide theatercompany. F or details, see chapter 7,p. 138.

• Light up y our day with a trip to theCape Bonavista Lighthouse:This stepback in time is informativ e, introspec-tive, and br eathtakingly beautiful.Inside, y ou’ll be gr eeted b y costumedinterpreters and a r ealistic por trayal of life as it once was for the lighthousekeeper and his family. Outside, you’ll be

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• Cruise the fjor ds of G ros M orne:A tour boat ex cursion acr oss WesternBrook Pond in G ros Morne NationalPark will be a highlight of y our trip toNewfoundland and Labrador. You passcountless waterfalls and towering peaks,and feel at peace with nature. See chap-ter 9, p. 193.

• Set sail on a Viking adventure:Takeyour place at the oar onboar d a replicaViking knarr with Viking Boat Tours.It’s a full-fledged Viking-style oceango-ing adv enture: y ou can ev en dr ess in

traditional garb for a mor e authenticexperience. S till, I doubt the Vikings would hav e appr oved—only good,clean fun is allo wed on this ship . Forinformation on how to book your Nor-dic adventure, see chapter 9, p. 206.

• Climb the lighthouse at Point Amour: The rewards are w ell worth the effor t. You’ll get a spectacular vie w (including

a bird’s-eye view of some of the oldestfossils found in N orth America) andlearn quite a bit about naval history andshipwrecks. B ack at gr ound lev el, y oucan hike the HMS RaleighTrail whenyou’re done. See chapter 10, p. 214.

• Enjoy an outdoor lunch at Ferryland: Lighthouse Picnics will fill a basket fullof goodies—including a blanket—tomake y our lunch on the grassy head-land of this historic community memo-rable. See chapter 6, p. 117.

equally enraptured by the r ocky coast-line and flowing seascape. See chapter 7,p. 141.

• Chart a course for the North Atlantic Aviation M useum:A t the to wn of Gander, experience local aviation his-tory, as depicted thr ough stor yboards,scale model displays, and r estored air-craft. And if y ou’ve ev er dr eamed of becoming a pilot, y ou can move a stepcloser to that dr eam when y ou par k yourself in the cockpit of a DC-38. S eechapter 8, p. 163.

• Cruise the South Coast:Visit the mostisolated communities on the island por-tion of the pr ovince. These gems of outport per fection ar e accessible only by ferr y. They might not hav e pav e-ment, but they ’re also fr ee of traffic jams and r oad rage. A ferr y trip alongthe South Coast is the best way to getup close and personal with the best

(people) and worst (isolation) of r uralNewfoundland. See chapter 8, p. 172.• Visit the pr ovince’s last pocket of

French settlement: The Port a u Po rt Peninsula is the only place in the prov-ince where French displaces E nglish asthe native language.Ici, on par le Fran-çais.Language, however, is just one partof a larger cultural dynamic. H ere,you’ll find a more overt Roman Catho-lic heritage and a genuinely F rench joie de vivre —unique in a society of primar-ily English and Irish descent. See chap-ter 9, p. 179.

• The Fluvarium: This interesting facil-ity within S t. John’s city limits is easily accessible to those using public trans-port and v ery conv enient to campersnext door in P ippy Park. The F luvar-ium offers a firsthand look at theunderwater world of br ook tr out and

other creatures that inhabit Newfound-land’s ponds and riv ers. See chapter 5,p. 102.

• See seals in action at the O cean Sci-ences Centre:It’s the unofficial star of Logy Bay, an oceanfr ont research facil-ity that has an outdoor seal tank. You’ll

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might include passing a black bear ormoose. You’ll see the province in a way not possible fr om the highway . S eechapter 8, p. 170.

• Twillingate: This is the place to be if you’re thrilled b y the sight of to weringicebergs and gracious whales. I cebergsfloat b y fr om M ay thr ough J uly (they seem to linger a bit longer in the bay near Twillingate than they do else wherearound the province). Humpback whalesare in abundance fr om J une thr oughSeptember. See chapter 8, p. 165.

• Northern Peninsula: Any one lookingfor a moose is bound to spot one her e.This remote and r ugged part of nor th- western N ewfoundland is home tomany of the pr ovince’s 130,000 big,brown, beautiful creatures. You’ll oftensee them on or along the highway atdusk or dawn, especially during the fall.See chapter 9, p. 195.

• Sail amid floating glacial castles withNorthland D iscovery B oat Tours: You’ll marvel at the cracks and colors in10,000-year-old icebergs while trav el-ing alongside playful dolphins, whales,and seabir ds in their natural envir on-ment. To learn how you can get a tasteof N orthland D iscovery’s unique eco-tourism adventure (not to mention thepurest water on Ear th), see chapter 9,p. 203.

• Tablelands: Students of geology already know that ther e’s no better place to bethan the island of Newfoundland, com-monly known as the R ock. And there’sno mor e spectacular example of the world’s natural geological for ces thanthis UNESCO World H eritage S ite, where tr emendous for ces deep belo w the Ear th’s cr ust pushed up ward 470million years ago. See chapter 9, p. 192.

• Gros M orne A dventures:G uided seakayaking tours thr ough the shelter ed waters of Bonne Bay give you a sea-levelview of bald eagles, terns, and other wildlife. You’ll be gliding thr ough one

be entertained by the comical antics of the resident seals as they splash and divein their o wn priv ate pool. I f y ou’relucky, you may even see them interact-ing with Centr e staff—and beingrewarded for their effor ts with a tasty fish. See chapter 5, p. 103.

• Route 10, The Irish Loop: Head southof St. John’s, and y ou’ll find a numberof the province’s best nature attractions within close pr oximity. Out atWitlessBay E cological R eserve,seabir dsabound, numbering more than 2.5 mil-

lion, including 520,000 A tlantic puf-fins. The waters ar e also full of playfulhumpback whales. The whales actually heave their massiv e bodies out of the water and snare mouthfuls of food dur-ing their descent. The reserve is acces-sible by boat tour. Meanwhile, back onland, a her d of caribou can often beseen from the highway near Trepassey,

and if y ou’re r eally lucky, y ou may beable to watch the humpbacks feedingoff the beach at St. Vincent’s. See chap-ter 6, p. 112.

• Visit with local wildlife at S almonierNature Park: At this r etirement/recov-ery home for aging and wounded ani-mals, you’ll see moose, fo x, hare, lynx,and more in their natural envir onment(or almost natural—the holding ar easare secur ely fenced enclosur es). TheNature Park is a pleasant walk and edu-cation expedition, combined with a rareopportunity to vie w reclusive animals.Best of all, no admission is charged. Seechapter 6, p. 120.

• Watch salmon return to their spawn-ing gr ounds at the S almonid I nter-pretation Centre: Here, you’ll get botha surface and under water view of thesehomeward-bound fish as they maketheir annual against-the-curr ent pil-grimage. See chapter 8, p. 170.

• White-water raft with R afting New-foundland: Your exhilarating ridethrough br eathtaking scener y just



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land with just a fe w stands of tuckamorefor color . N ot her e. I n P inware P ark,you’ll find a v erdant spruce carpet in asheltered valley, as well as abundant freshwater fish and extr eme kayaking condi-tions (for exper ts only!). To learn mor eabout the park, see chapter 10, p. 216.

of the most scenic areas of the province:mountains, fjords, and glacial depositsare just a fe w of the featur es y ou’llencounter along y our paddling adv en-ture. See chapter 9, p. 194.

• Pinware River Provincial Park:Most of the Labrador Straits area is open, barren

• Cape S pear R oad:J ust a 15-minutedrive south of S t. John’s, Cape Spear is

the most easterly point in North Amer-ica, a National Historic Site, and site of the Cape S pear Lighthouse. I f y ou’reenjoying the driv e, continue a littlefarther south to ward the scenic fishingvillage of P etty Harbour. I t won’t takeyou mor e than an hour to driv e thecomplete circle from St. John’s to CapeSpear–Petty Harbour–Goulds–Kilbride

and back to S t. John’s. See “ExploringSt. John’s” in chapter 5.• Middle Co ve to P ouch Co ve(pr o-

nounced “pooch cove”): In the oppositedirection fr om Cape S pear and P etty Harbour are the close-knit communitiesof Logy Bay–Middle Cove–Outer Cove,Torbay, Flat Rock, and Pouch Cove (fol-low rtes. 30 and 20). There’s an interest-ing contrast along the driv e: Nestled inbetween the farmland and ob viously rural lifestyle are some of the most pr es-tigious properties on the island, evidenceof the growing prosperity in this par t of the province. See chapter 5.

• Irish Loop:This loop is a 4-hour round-trip driv e thr ough the hear t of N ew-foundland’s I rish heritage and cariboucountry. Along the way, you’ll see beauti-ful coastal communities beside a pan-orama of r ugged shor e and outpor tloveliness. Follow Route 10 south of S t. John’s. If you stay on the same route (thename changes to Rte. 90 about halfway),you’ll be carried back to the capital city .See “Irish Loop” in chapter 6.

• Baccalieu Trail:The tiny outport com-munities that line the shor es of this fin-

ger of the A valon P eninsula betw eenTrinity and Conception bays ar e simply beautiful. R outes 80 and 70 will takeyou to inviting communities such asHeart’s D elight, H eart’s Content, andHarbour Grace. But remember to get off the highway and drive right into the vil-lages in or der to tr uly enjoy the beauty.See “Baccalieu Trail” in chapter 6.

• Route 230 to B onavista:B eautiful inany season, this stunning str etch of highway is especially br eathtaking whencloaked in early fall foliage. You’ll findyourself wanting to pull o ver at ev ery bend in the road so you can really appreci-ate the incredible views. The shining starsof the journey are the towns of Trinity andBonavista, and the sw eeping ocean pan-orama seen fr om the end of the r oad atCape Bonavista. See chapter 7.

• The foot of the H eritage Run:If youlook at the B urin Peninsula on a map ,you’ll notice it r esembles a leg with afoot on the end. The long “leg ” of theHeritage R un has some memorablemoments, though for the main, itdoesn’t qualify as a scenic drive. But theloop journey from the ankle to the toeand back (rtes. 222, 220, and 213) is adifferent stor y. H ere, y ou’ll follo w acoastal trail with an ob vious maritimetheme. H ighlights of the trip ar e thelobster pots, fishing boats, and immac-ulate whar f facilities y ou’ll spot alongthe side of the road. See chapter 7.

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you’re likely to see an iceberg or two. Inbetween all the official highlights, theroad passes thr ough some handsomely rugged and r emote countr yside. S eechapter 9.

• Labrador Coastal D rive:R oute 510takes y ou fr om the ferr y at B lancSablon, Quebec, to the captivating out-port of Red Bay, Labrador. It’s a pav edroad (one of the fe w in Labrador , sotake advantage of it), which gives you achance to tour the inter esting commu-nities and many historical attractions

found on the Labrador S traits. H igh-lights include sunken Spanish galleons,a 7,500-y ear-old burial mound, and Atlantic Canada’s tallest lighthouse. Seechapter 10.

• Kittiwake Coast: It’s a long driv e fromGambo through the assorted towns andvillages along the north coast (rtes. 320–330) before heading back to the Trans-Canada Highway at G ander, but it ’s so worth the effor t. En route ar e picture-perfect picnic spots, a sandy beach (rar ein this part of the world), and the com-munity known as the “ Venice of N ew-foundland.” See chapter 8.

• Route 430 up the N orthern P enin-sula: A t D eer Lake, R oute 430 spursnorth along the w estern side of the

northern peninsula. You’ll pass throughGros M orne N ational P ark, P ort auChoix N ational H istoric S ite, L ’Anseaux M eadows N ational H istoric S ite,and the to wn of S t. Anthony , wher e

• Quidi Vidi (S t. J ohn’s): P ronounced“kiddee viddee,” this historical fishingvillage has managed to stop time in itstracks. You’re not more than 5 minutes’drive from the traffic of do wntown St. John’s, y et Q uidi Vidi has the oldestcottage in North America, horses graz-ing on the cliffs o verlooking the peace-ful lake, and timeless fishing shedssnuggling up to the granite cliffs thatguard its sheltered harbor. See chapter 5,p. 100.

• Petty H arbour (S t. J ohn’s): J ust 15minutes south of S t. John’s, this peace-ful and quaint fishing village has beenthe backdr op for a number of films. With its aging fishing sheds, woodenslipways, and cliff-hugging housestucked within a pr otective hillsideembrace, its attraction as a mo vie set isreadily appar ent. I t’s amazing to findsuch a pictur esque and w ell-preservedpiece of traditional Newfoundland cul-ture just minutes fr om the capital city .See chapter 5, p. 101.

• Ferryland (Avalon P eninsula): Asidefrom the unique lur e of its ongoingarchaeological dig (impr essive as thatis), the town of Ferryland is a strikingly attractive community . I t flo ws do wnfrom the hills in graceful descent to sealevel, lay ers of gr een grass and r ocky knolls sprinkled amid stubborn settle-ment. On the small peninsula extend-ing out fr om Ferryland H arbour is alighthouse, its blinking ey e a hauntingreminder of the tragedy that can befallunwary sailors. To plan y our visit toFerryland, see chapter 6, p. 115.

• Brigus (A valon P eninsula): You’ll seelots of beautiful flo wers and o verhang-ing trees lining the narr ow streets thatlead to the harbor of this historic fish-ing village, and an abundance of heri-tage-style homes that giv e the place areal step-back-in-time feel. I f y ou’relooking to make the modern world goaway for a while, B rigus is the per fectretreat. See chapter 6, p. 123.

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• François (Central R egion): A t theopposite end of the compass fr omTwillingate is an isolated outpor t vil-lage, accessible only b y ferr y. I t hasneither paved road nor hotel, but thatdoesn’t put F rançois at a disadv antage.Majestic cliffs ring the little commu-nity, and wooden boar dwalks ser ve asthe local land highway (the r eal highway is the ocean). You’ll have to work tofind it, as it ’s hidden fr om vie w on a

narrow strip of land at the head of afjord. See chapter 8, p. 172.• Port aux B asques( Western N ew-

foundland): An often underappreciatedcommunity, Port aux B asques is mor ethan a relay station for the N ewfound-land–Nova Scotia ferry. It has both tra-ditional ar chitectural beauty and animpressive blasted-r ock harbor

entrance. It takes on a r omantic ambi-ence in the twilight hours, thanks to theguide lights used to illuminate the ferry terminal. See chapter 9, p. 175.

• Battle Harbour (Labrador): A ccessibleonly b y boat, this one-time capital of Labrador was abandoned in the 1960s.Now r estored, centur y-old buildingsand a simple beauty cr eate a haunting,yet memorable, destination. Escape thehustle and bustle of the modern world, whether for a day trip or overnight stay in the nostalgic Battle Harbour Inn. Seechapter 10, p. 218.

• Dildo (A valon Peninsula): I f the namealone isn’t enough to spark your curiosity,you might be attracted b y this historicalfishing village ’s pr oud seafaring histor y. And then ther e’s its aesthetic beauty: it was named one of Canada ’s pr ettiesttowns, and y ou’re sur e to agr ee whenlooking at the wonder ful view of Trinity Bay. G reen space and simple woodenfences add to D ildo’s r ustic charm. S eechapter 6, p. 125.

• Trinity (Eastern R egion): Time seemsto have stood still for this quaint fishingvillage that has pr eserved many of its19th-century buildings. O r, if it hasn ’tstood still, ther e’s certainly a concer tedcommunity effor t to turn back theclock. If you climb the hill from Court-house Road behind the Royal Bank justbefore sunset, you’ll get one of the most

beautiful views available anywhere. Seechapter 7, p. 135.

• Twillingate (Central Region): Here is acommunity per fectly positioned foroptimum iceberg vie wing. With suchimpressive floating monoliths frequent-ing the shor e ev ery spring and early summer, y ou’ll be forgiv en if y ourattention wanders fr om the man-madebeauty in and around the town. But restassured, Twillingate is indeed a comple-mentary composition of raw landscapeand human constr uction. You’ll find itat the nor thern end of R oute 340. Seechapter 8, p. 165.

Getting to Know SalvageOn the western edge of the Eastern Region, following Route 310 east of Glover-town, is one of the most picturesque (and most photographed!) fishing commu-

nities in the province. Salvage (pronounced “salvage ”) is a visual treat of stages,wharves, sheds, and slipways nestled in and around a granite shore. This, thenever-ending ocean serenade, and houses built in the unlikeliest of places, makeSalvage an unforgettable destination.



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• St. John’s H aunted Hike (St. John’s):Looking for something differ ent? Try this after-dark stroll through downtownSt. J ohn’s with the R everend Thomas Wyckham J arvis, Esquir e. H e’ll takeyou on a rather eerie walk thr oughsome of the oldest graveyards in the city and add quite a bit of theatrics alongthe way to keep your adrenaline pump-ing. See chapter 5, p. 106.

• Signal H ill–Battery Trail (St. J ohn’s):Not for the faint of hear t! This walk starts at a pinnacle height, towering overthe capital city , and follo ws a thigh-burning descent along a dizzying pathless than 3m (93 ⁄ 4 ft.) from the edge of a61m (200-ft.) dr op to the A tlanticOcean. Those brave enough to attemptit are rewarded with the most spectacular

scenery in the city. See chapter 5, p. 99.• East Coast Trail (Avalon P eninsula):This 220km (137-mile) route is one of North America ’s classic hiking trails.From St. John’s, it leads south along thebeautiful coastline of the Avalon Penin-sula. You can see whales and seabir dsclose to shore, and parts of the trail ar eeasy enough for the beginner . I t’s

divided into sections, so y ou can do asmuch or as little as y ou like, tailoringyour hike(s) to y our time frame andfitness level. See chapter 6, p. 129.

• British H arbour Trail (EasternRegion): An old car t road leads to anabandoned outport village and then fol-lows a starkly beautiful stretch of rocky coast to a second village. See chapter 7,p. 139.

• Terra N ova N ational P ark (EasternRegion): Much of this park’s focus is onthe water, but a number of inter estinghikes lace the dense mainland for est. A favorite is theCoastal Trail, linking themain campgr ound and visitor center .See chapter 7, p. 149.

• Gros Morne National P ark (WesternNewfoundland): I t’s impossible toselect one particular trail from this park as the best; they’re all very different, andyou can choose one that meets y ourown abilities or inter ests. I f y ou’re anexperienced hiker and enjo y the chal-lenges of a difficult climb , y ou’ll findthat the Gros Morne Mountain Trail offers the most spectacular rewards. Seechapter 9, p. 184.

• Port au Choix N ational Historic Site

(Western N ewfoundland): Two con-nected hiking trails, each with its o wnattributes, crisscr oss this historically important site halfway up the nor thernpeninsula. The Phillips G ardenCoastal Trail stands out for the oppor-tunity of watching ar chaeologists at work. See chapter 9, p. 197.

• HMS Raleigh T rail (Labrador): O n

this coastal hike at P oint Amour, y oucan marvel at 500-million-year-old fos-sils, search out a shipwreck, photographa water fall, and pick mouthwateringberries, all without having to go too faroff the beaten track. The trail begins at Atlantic Canada’s tallest lighthouse. Seechapter 10, p. 215.

5 T H E B E S T H I K E S & WA L K I N G TO U R S

• Johnson G eo Centr e (S t. J ohn’s):This underground geological display isfun for the entir e family . A dults willappreciate the educational interpr etive

program, while teenagers will beimpressed by the oversize exhibits (andcool audiovisual presentation with sim-ulated rain and v olcanic er uptions).

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• Terra Nova National Park: Terra Novagets high marks for its family activities.The park has an ex cellent interpretiveprogram, nice campgr ounds, a sandy beach for waterspor ts and swimming,an evening interpretive program, greathands-on displays at the Visitor Centre,easy walking trails, and boat tours of Newman Sound. See chapter 7.

• Splash-n-Putt Resort (EasternRegion): The largest water par k in theprovince, with a 91m-long (299-ft.) waterslide, comes complete with bum-

per cars, go-kar ts, and mini-golf . S eechapter 7, p. 156.• Marble M ountain R esort ( Western

Newfoundland): Winter fun for theentire family, the 35 named r uns havesomething for ev eryone; sno wboardersgravitate to the half-pipe and terrainpark. For the y ounger set, there’s certi-fied ski and snowboard instruction and

a day car e, which means par ents andchildren get to enjoy the resort on theirown terms. See chapter 9, p. 182.

• Newfoundland I nsectarium (WesternNewfoundland): What kid doesn ’t likebugs or butter flies? Kids hav e a gr eattime her e, watching honeybees buzzabout, str etching out their hands tocatch a butter fly, getting some bug-related souv enirs to take home, andhaving an ice cr eam when they ’re fin-ished. See chapter 9, p. 184.

• Norstead (Western N ewfoundland):This r eenactment village depicts theeveryday life of N orsemen—and women—from a.d. 1000. N orstead’s wonderful Discovery Program for kidsoffers a hands-on oppor tunity to par-ticipate in the v arious activities that would have been carried out in the set-tlement. Even the teens will be shockedout of their chr onic bor edom b y theclanging swords and hand-to-hand com-bat of the mock battles. S ee chapter 9 ,p. 205.

Younger childr en will enter tain them-selves just squirting water at the exposedrock wall. See chapter 5, p. 99.

• Fluvarium (St. John’s): This first-classinterpretation facility pr ovides visitorsthe opportunity to go beneath the sur-face to see trout and underwater species(the building boasts a glass-walled view-ing area). Try to time y our visit for theday’s scheduled feeding. S ee chapter 5,p. 102.

• Avondale R ailway S tation M useum (Avalon Peninsula): For over a century,

trains play ed a vital r ole in mo vingpeople and goods acr oss N ewfound-land. You can see just ho w impor tantthey were at the Avondale Railway Sta-tion M useum, the pr ovince’s oldestrailway station. There ar e decommis-sioned cars on display , and during thesummer, children can go for a ride onone of the museum’s small rail cars. See

chapter 6, p. 125.• Stan Cook S ea K ayak A dventures(Avalon Peninsula): Kayaking is fun forthe young and the young-at-heart. StanCook’s company has specially designedkayaks so children too young to paddleon their o wn can ride with mom ordad. And, for beginners, ther e’s experton-shore instr uction pr ovided prior toheading out onto the water. See chapter 6,p. 130.

• Terra N ova R esort (Eastern R egion):This resort offers golfing, natur e hikes,mini-golf, tennis, basketball, swim-ming, a childr en’s program, and mor e.See chapter 7, p. 153.

• Frenchman’s Co ve P rovincial P ark (Eastern Region): This Burin Peninsulapark offers a pebble beach, playground,and freshwater pond for outdoor swim-ming. D on’t worr y, the adults won ’tfind themselves at loose ends—they can walk the fair ways of a 9-hole golf course. See chapter 7, p. 148.



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A L H I S T O R Y & C U L T U R E

• The R ooms(S t. J ohn’s): Constr uctedto r esemble “ fishing r ooms,” wher efamilies would pr ocess their catch, thisimposing complex combines the pr o-vincial museum, ar t galler y, andarchives. Far fr om y our typical stuffy museum, it featur es a distinct contem-porary ambience, as the stor y of theprovince’s human and natural histor y

unfolds while you move from room toroom. See chapter 5, p. 98.

• Signal H ill (S t. J ohn’s): J ust a shor tdrive fr om do wntown, this N ationalHistoric Site offers the best vie w of St. John’s and the harbor . It was her e thatGuglielmo M arconi r eceived the first wireless transatlantic signal, using a kiteto catch the faint transmission fr omPoldhu, E ngland. F or the full effect,time your visit to take in the Signal HillMilitary Tattoo. See chapter 5, p. 99.

• Basilica of S t. J ohn the B aptist (S t. John’s): F or y ears the largest and mostimposing structure on the S t. John’s sky-line, the Basilica was one of the few build-ings to sur vive the G reat F ires thatdevastated the capital city during the early part of the 20th centur y. A highlight of your visit will be a vie wing of the VeiledVirgin statue. See chapter 5, p. 98.

• Quidi Vidi Battery (S t. John’s): I n theearly battles for contr ol of the colony of St. John’s, heavy for tifications were con-structed at strategic locations thr oughout

the city. This quiet hill overlooking QuidiVidi H arbour was one of them. Today,costumed interpreters explain the purposeof the installation and the people whoresided there. See chapter 5, p. 100.

• Colony of A valon(Avalon Peninsula):Make y our first stop at this indepen-dently run national historic site, southof St. John’s, the Interpretation Centre.

From this point, it ’s a shor t str ollthrough the village of F erryland to thedig site, wher e archaeologists ar e con-tinuing to uncover remnants of the firstsuccessful planned colony in N ew-foundland. See chapter 6, p. 117.

• Hawthorne Cottage National H is-toric Site (Avalon Peninsula): The for-mer home of famous Ar ctic explor erCaptain Bob B artlett includes intrigu-ing insights into the life and times of the man and his family , as w ell as thestruggles he faced on his expeditions.See chapter 6, p. 126.

• Dildo & Ar ea I nterpretation Centr e(Avalon Peninsula): This is a fascinatingfacility if y ou’re interested in the wor k-ings of a fish hatchery and want to learnmore about the way of life for N ew-foundlanders of the not-so-distant past,as well as the nativ e peoples who onceinhabited the region. Plus, it comes witha replica of a giant squid that was caughtin the area! See chapter 6, p. 125.

7 T H E B E S T P L A C E S TO D I S C O V E RLOCAL HIS TORY & CULTURE

Exploring St. John’s Art GalleriesArtists are acknowledged mediums for the ideas and attitudes of their culturalgenerations. You can see (and buy) the work of some of the most talented artistsin the province through one of several St John’s art galleries: Christina Parker,Emma Butler, and Lane. See chapter 5, p. 108.



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I S C OV E R L O C A L HI S T OR Y & C UL T UR E

before the E uropeans arriv ed. Bo yd’sCove is one of those sites that help usremember. Although little is known aboutNewfoundland’s no w-extinct B eothuk,Boyd’s Co ve sheds some light on whothey were and how they adapted to New-foundland’s harsh envir onment. S eechapter 8, p. 165.

• Dorset S oapstone Q uarry (CentralRegion): E ven befor e the B eothuk,there were Dorset people living on theisland of Newfoundland. Proof of theirexistence can be found in the province’s

earliest known mine, where the Dorsetmined soapstone for use as bo wls andcooking pots. See chapter 8, p. 171.

• Port au Choix N ational Historic Site (Western N ewfoundland): What is itabout Port au Choix that has made itthe location of choice for fiv e differentnative populations o ver the last 4,500years? Archaeologists are still tr ying to

puzzle the answ er fr om the clues leftbehind from past civilizations (includ-ing the Maritime Archaics, the Groswa-ter, and the D orset-Paleoeskimo). S eechapter 9, p. 197.

• Grenfell Interpretation Centre (West-ern N ewfoundland): This is a r ecom-mended stop for any one inter ested inthe early medical histor y of nor thernNewfoundland and Labrador . Learnabout Sir Wilfred Thomason Grenfell,the English doctor who became a localhero to the Inuit and early settlers of theregion. See chapter 9, p. 202.

• L’Anse aux M eadows N ational H is-toric S ite (Western N ewfoundland):Make your first stop the visitor center ,to learn about the Vikings who landedat the tip of the N orthern P eninsulaaround a.d. 1000. Then, y ou’ll walk among the sunken foundations of theirvillage. Plus, there is a re-created Vikingvillage, with r eenactors on hand todemonstrate ho w these early settlersmight have interacted with each other .See chapter 9, p. 205.

• Trinity Historical Properties (EasternRegion): While the entir e community of Trinity is a living museum, with resi-dents embracing their past as the r outeto future prosperity, a few buildings areopen as tourist attractions. Theseinclude the Lester-G arland P remises,Hiscock H ouse, Trinity M useum,Court House, and Green Family Forge.See chapter 7, p. 138.

• Ryan Premises National Historic Site(Eastern Region): This cluster of 19th-century harborfront buildings is a resto-

ration of the mer chant pr emises thatserved as the hub of a once-thrivingfishing community . The I nterpretiveCentre has an ex cellent display aboutchanges that hav e affected the pr ov-ince’s fishery. Also check out the replicain the harbor of the Matthew,the three-masted 15th-centur y v essel sailed b y John Cabot to Newfoundland in 1497.

See chapter 7, p. 142.• Burin H eritage M useum (EasternRegion): The communities of G randBank and Fortune are among the closestin the world to the infamous fishinggrounds of the G rand Banks. Throughinterpretive panels and traveling exhib-its, this museum pays tribute to thatheritage. See chapter 7, p. 147.

• Barbour Living H eritage Village (Central Region): S imilar to the R yanPremises, but on a larger scale. I t’s not just a restored commercial property, buta series of reconstructed buildings typi-cal of a fishing village (ca. 1900).They’re more than just historical monu-ments, ho wever. These multipurposebuildings also ser ve as the localmuseum, theater , and ar t galler y. S eechapter 8, p. 164.

• Boyd’s Co ve Beothuk I nterpretationCentre (Central R egion): With all thehype about John Cabot discovering New-foundland, and even the Vikings arrivinga millennium ago, it ’s easy to forget thatthere were permanent residents here long



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of Red Bay. For more information, seechapter 10, p. 217.

• Battle Harbour (Labrador): One of my favorite places in all of N ewfoundlandand Labrador , this community , oncethe hub of Labrador, was abandoned inthe 1960s; but thanks to enterprisinglocals, many buildings hav e beenrestored, and you can visit for a day oreven stay overnight. Access is by boat insummer only. See chapter 10, page 218.

• Red Bay National Historic Site(Lab-rador): Once the whaling capital of the world, the name Red Bay came from thecolor of the water, which was supposedly so bright with whales ’ blood that itflowed red. Inside the interpretive centeris a r eproduction of a wooden whalingboat, surrounded by the mandible (jaw-bone) of a bo whead whale. The ar ea wasn’t treacherous just to whales, ho w-ever; at least thr ee Spanish galleons ar eknown to have gone down in the waters

• Newfoundland & Labrador Folk Fes-tival (S t. J ohn’s): This is an absolutemust for lo vers of traditional music.The 3-day ev ent takes place in do wn-town St. John’s during the first weekendof August and pr ovides a good v ariety

of music that includes folk, countr y,bluegrass, and Celtic. S ee chapter 5,p. 103.

• Royal S t. J ohn’s R egatta (St. J ohn’s):This is the biggest ev ent of the year forSt. John’s; its impor tance is r ecognizedby its status as a municipal holiday. Theoldest continuous spor ting ev ent inNorth America offers a day in early August of fix ed-seat r owing races andlots of fun for the entire family at QuidiVidi Lake. See chapter 5, p. 104.

• George S treet F estival (St. J ohn’s): You’ll enjoy the George Street Festival if you’re y oung (or , at the v ery least,young-at-heart) and don ’t mind loudmusic and cr owds. D uring the 6-day midsummer event, a 2-block str etch of the downtown street is closed off , andbars open up their doors and bring in alineup of terrific enter tainment. S eechapter 5, p. 103.

• Shamrock Festival(Avalon Peninsula):Traditional I rish-Newfoundland musicmingles with some modern materialin this popular late-J uly ev ent held

outdoors in the community of F erry-land. Many of the province’s best-knownperformers ar e fr om this par t of theprovince, so the lineup is always guaran-teed to impress. See chapter 6, p. 115.

• Brigus B lueberry F estival(A valon

Peninsula): Arrive early because ther e’salways a crowd in Brigus for this popu-lar mid-A ugust ev ent. I t’s an ex cellentvenue for buying locally made productssuch as knitted goods, quilts, and, of course, blueberry products. See chapter 6,p. 123.

• Summer in the Bight (Eastern Region):Each year betw een June and O ctober,the Rising T ide Theatr e puts on anumber of professional shows that givepoignant life to the N ewfoundlandcharacter and lifestyle. S taged at bothindoor and outdoor venues, Summer inthe Bight includes the r enownedNew Founde Lande Trinity P ageant.S eechapter 7, p. 138.

• The Fish, Fun & F olk Festival(Cen-tral R egion): O ne of the largest andlongest-running folk festiv als in N ew-foundland, this event is held the last full weekend of J uly in Twillingate. If you want to have a great time with the fam-ily and gain deeper insight into whatmakes N ewfoundlanders tick, plan totake in this event. See chapter 8, p. 168.

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northern part of the park. Twice weekly,you’ll have the chance to enjo y a theat-rical performance, as well as taste someof the best pan-fried cod found anywhere. See chapter 9, p. 190.

• Bakeapple F olk F estival (Labrador):Time your visit to the Labrador S traitsfor the second w eekend of A ugust, when the cloudberry, or bakeapple ber-ries, ar e ripe and the biggest summerevent of the y ear is taking place. You’llget 4 days of fun, music, and merri-ment. See chapter 10, p. 216.

• Exploits Valley Salmon Festival(Cen-tral R egion): This 5-day family ev entand salmon celebration is held mid-July in Grand Falls–Windsor. Take time toenjoy a per formance at the highly regarded Summer Theatr e Festival. See chapter 8, p. 170.

• Gros Morne Theatre Festival(WesternNewfoundland): Treat y ourself to adinner-theater pr oduction of ex cellentregional music, comedy , and drama while in the ar ea of G ros M orneNational Park betw een J une and S ep-

tember. The festiv al is held in the

• Courtyard St. John’s (131 DuckworthSt., S t. J ohn’s;& 866/727-6636 or709/722-6636; www .marriott.com):This is the ne west hotel to rise among

downtown’s historic cor e. R ooms ar estylish, and the friendly and kno wl-edgeable front-desk staffers are an unex-pected bonus. See chapter 5, p. 85.

• Murray P remises H otel(5 B eck’sCove, St. John’s;& 866/738-7773 or 709/738-7773; www .murraypremiseshotel.com): You simply can ’t beat theattention to detail at this beautifully decorated boutique hotel, which wasonce a waterfront warehouse. The staff and management ar e top-notch, offer-ing an exceptional standard of service toensure your stay is enjoyable. See chap-ter 5, p. 86.

• Sheraton H otel N ewfoundland (115Cavendish Sq., St. John’s;& 800/325-3535 or 709/726-4980; www.starwoodhotels.com): R ecently r ebranded afteroperating as a F airmont pr operty formany years, this is the best-known full-service pr operty in the pr ovince. Although it lacks an outwar dly New-foundland style—because of its size andbranding—you will still find the uniqueisland character in the personality of the

caring and pr ofessional staff. See chap-ter 5, p. 86.

• Bears Cove Inn(15 B ears Cove Rd., Witless B ay; & 866/634-1171 or

709/334-3909; www .bearscoveinn.com): Don’t pick this lodging if a longlist of amenities is impor tant to y ou.But if y ou’re looking for a place wher eyou can see the ocean fr om inside yourroom or while sitting on y our priv atedeck overlooking the r ugged coastline,this is a gr eat choice. S ee chapter 6,p. 114.

• The Wilds at S almonier Riv er(Rte.90, Salmonier Line;& 866/888-9453 or 709/229-5444; www .thewilds.ca):Even F ido is w elcome at this terrificfamily r esort. The Wilds has self-con-tained cabins, as w ell as hotel-stylerooms in the main building. One of theprovince’s finest golf courses is on-site,and you’re just minutes from SalmonierNature Park. See chapter 6, p. 119.

• Bird I sland R esort (M ain Rd., S t.Bride’s; & 709/337-2450; www .birdislandresort.com): This r esort offersfully equipped efficiency units that ar eideal for traveling families. All-ages funincludes mini-golf, horseshoe pits, anda fitness center . This is the closest

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, & H E R I T A G E I N N S

• Marble I nn R esort (D ogwood D r.,Steady B rook;& 877/497-5673 or709/634-2237; www .marbleinn.com):It doesn’t have the attitude of the offi-cial Marble Mountain Resort, and that’sa good thing. I find these cabins ar eactually cozier and mor e inviting thantheir more expensive counterparts. Theample on-site amenities (sauna, fitnessfacility, canoe r entals, and playground)add even more value to the package. Seechapter 9, p. 180.

• Sugar Hill Inn (Norris Point Rd., Nor-

ris P oint;&

888/299-2147 or 709/458-2147; www .sugarhillinn.nf.ca): After a long day of hiking in G rosMorne National Park, this little slice of luxury will be much appreciated. The sixguest rooms are warm and inviting, andthe food is top-notch. S ee chapter 9 ,p. 190.

accommodations to Cape S t. M ary’sEcological R eserve. S ee chapter 6,p. 121.

• Terra N ova R esort (P ort B landford;& 709/543-2525; www.terranovagolf.com): This full-ser vice family r esortoffers a great kids’ program, an outdoorswimming pool, tennis, a challenging27-hole golf course, and in-house din-ing, and it’s ideally situated for day tripsinto Terra N ova N ational P ark. S eechapter 7, p. 153.

• BlueWater Lodge & R etreat ( Trans-

Canada Hwy . near G ander;&

709/535-3003; www.relax-at-bluewater.ca): A wonderful place to stay while touringNotre Dame Bay and other points inthe Central R egion, the lodge has aprivate, serene setting on a small lake,making it a per fect retreat for any onereally wanting to get away fr om it all.See chapter 8, p. 159.

• Bluestone I nn (34 Q ueen’s Rd., S t. John’s;& 877/754-9876 or 709/754-7544; www .thebluestoneinn.com):Modern chic blends effor tlessly withclassic architectural design for a one-of-a-kind B&B. This place has it all: splen-did downtown location, an inter estinghistory, superlativ e food, and spaciousguest rooms. See chapter 5, p. 87.

• Winterholme Heritage Inn (79 R en-nies Mill Rd., S t. John’s;& 800/599-7829 or 709/739-7979; www .

winterholme.com): B ring y our neck brace—you’ll need it fr om constantly staring up ward at the ornately car ved woodwork. I f y ou’re a r eal r omantic,reserve one of the suites with a jettedtub and fireplace. See chapter 5, p. 89.

• Inn by the Bay (78 F ront Rd., D ildo;& 888/339-7829 or 709/582-3170;

www.innbythebaydildo.com): Who canresist staying in one of “Canada ’s 10Prettiest Towns”? This lovely B&B hasan attentiv e o wner and a water frontlocation, and it ’s right in the hear tof D ildo, an odd-sounding but v ery beautiful fishing village. S ee chapter 6,p. 124.

• Artisan Inn (High St., Trinity;& 877/464-7700 or 709/464-3377; www .artisaninntrinity.com): This is a won-derful B&B in the scenic village of

Trinity. The inn’s O cean Shore Apart-ment—with a private deck overlookingTrinity Bay—is my fav orite room. Seechapter 7, p. 135.

• Fishers’ Loft I nn(Mill Rd., Port Rex-ton; & 877/464-3240 or 709/464-3240; www .fishersloft.com): A shor tdrive from Trinity, this remote property

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diversity of species pr esent in the ar ea.See chapter 9, p. 176.

• Quirpon Lighthouse I nn (boat trans-fer fr om Q uirpon;& 877/254-6586 or 709/634-2285; www .linkumtours.com): This isolated island r etreat is theperfect escape fr om techno-society . Amenities include hearty home-cookedmeals, endless waves, iceberg views, andconversations with whales. I t’s just y ouand y our thoughts for company . S eechapter 9, p. 205.

• Battle H arbour I nn (B attle I sland,

Labrador;&

709/921-6325 or 709/921-6216; www .battleharbour.com):Looking to step back in time? Thissmall inn will enable y ou to do justthat. It has wood sto ves and oil lamps,and the setting is in the oldest intactsalt-fish community in the pr ovince.See chapter 10, p. 219.

with an ether eal atmosphere is per fectfor any one seeking peace, tranquillity ,and fine food. See chapter 7, p. 136.

• Elizabeth J. Cottages (H arris S t.,Bonavista; & 866/468-5035 or709/468-5035; www.elizabethjcottages.com): One of the finest cottage accom-modations in all of Newfoundland andLabrador—think fine cotton sheets onan o versize bed, plush bathr obes, amodern entertainment system, polishedhardwood floors, and a private deck withsweeping ocean vie ws. S ee chapter 7 ,

p. 140.• Cape Anguille Lighthouse I nn(Cape Anguille; & 877/254-6586 or 709/634-2285; www .linkumtours.com):Experience life as a lighthouse keeper atthis unique accommodation high abovethe G ulf of S t. Lawr ence. Aside fr omgracious hospitality and magnificentscenery, bir d-watchers will lo ve the

• Bacalao(65 Lemar chant Rd., S t. John’s; & 709/579-6565): I t didn ’ttake long for Bacalao to become one of the capital ’s most popular diningrooms, shor tly after it opened. O rderthe creamy cod au gratin and y ou findout why. See chapter 5, p. 90.

• Blue on Water (319 Water S t.; S t. John’s;& 709/754-2583): In the heartof historical do wntown St. John’s, thisslick dining r oom featur es a brightblue-and-white interior and a kitchenthat combines local game with moderncooking styles. See chapter 5, p. 91.

• Nautical N ellies(201 Water S t., S t. John’s;& 709/738-1120 ): Great food,big por tions, and r easonable prices incozy pub surr oundings—that’s whatyou’ll find at Nautical Nellies. It’s bothsmall and very popular, making it hardto get a table. See chapter 5, p. 92.

• Colony C afé(Rte. 10, F erryland;& 709/432-3030; www.thecolonycafe.ca): A French chef waits to tempt y ourtaste buds with succulent seafood andrich desserts. The cafe is situated next tothe Colony of Avalon archaeological digin Ferryland. See chapter 6, p. 116.

• Skipper’s R estaurant (42 CampbellSt., Bonavista; & 709/468-7982): After touring the historical sites inBonavista and taking in the vie ws atCape Bonavista, it ’s wor th sear chingout this lo vely waterfront restaurant if you like seafood and don ’t want to pay big prices. You’ll find terrific cho wderand, for the mor e adv enturous, localdelicacies such as fried dough smoth-ered in molasses. See chapter 7, p. 140.

• Bay of I slands B istro(13 West S t.,Corner Brook;& 709/639-3463): Thenouvelle cuisine ser ved here would be

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waterfront setting is a delight, the foodis as cr eative and w ell presented as thebest r estaurants in S t. J ohn’s, and theservice is pr ofessional. S ee chapter 9,p. 204.

• Whaler’s Restaurant (Red Bay, Labra-dor; & 709/920-2156): Want the bestfish and chips in Labrador? Then planon trying the chalupa fish and chips at Whaler’s. They’re tasty , tangy , andvalue-priced. And the r estaurant is inhistoric Red Bay, where you can finally find the answer to the riddle, “ What is

a chalupa?” See chapter 10, p. 217.

just as much at home in M ontreal as itis in N ewfoundland’s smallest city. Seechapter 9, p. 181.

• Anchor Café (Main St., Port au Choix;& 709/861-3665): B eyond the ship-shaped entrance is a simple diningroom with a wide-ranging menu of inexpensive seafood. My favorite combois seafood cho wder follo wed b y ashrimp burger. See chapter 9, p. 195.

• Norseman R estaurant (Rte. 436,L’Anse aux M eadows;& 877/623-2018): Located at the extreme northern

tip of the nor thern peninsula, this r es-taurant is a fantastic surprise. The

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