frontier · 17.06.2019 · 42 victory lap the women of u.s. soccer celebrated an epic win last...
TRANSCRIPT
Timberlandʼs Next Play / Trade Show MovesF O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / J U N E 1 7, 2 0 1 9 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S
F R O N T I E RT H E N E W
MENSWEAR’S EMBRACE OF ALL THINGS OUTDOOR ALLOWS FOR THE PERFECT PAIRING OF TECHNICAL FOOTWEAR. HERE, FORSAKE’S WILSON BOOT WITH PEAK-TO-PAVEMENT TRACTION (AT LEFT) AND VASQUE’S TALUS XT GTX WATERPROOF LEATHER HIKER MARRY FASHION AND FUNCTION.
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C O N T E N T SC O N T E N T S
28“� ese things do come
and go, trends in streetwear, but there’s still
a lot of runway here.” - MATT POWELL ON THE MERGING OF OUTDOOR AND FASHION
INSIDER 11 Sustainable
FutureHow Timberland is upping its eco-focus to drive growth.
16 FN Spy Santoni and Sofi a Sanchez de Betak talk sustainability.
18 Japan Up Close Why the casual shoe trend is taking over the market.
20 FN Insights Shoe closure alternatives are securing big business.
FEATURES 23 Trade Show
Planner Everything you need to know about the upcoming industry events.
28 Into the Wild Men’s fashion gears up for a hike.
32 � e Modern Mountain Man What the fashion and outdoor markets are taking from each other.
THE LIST 35 Shoe of
the Week Adidas Outdoor’s Terrex Free Hiker gets the Parley treatment.
36 A Greener Pitch How brands should market their sustain-able initiatives to consumers.
38 Good Taste Activist runner Jordan Daniel on raising awareness for indigenous people.
39 Five Qs Darn Tough Vermont’s CEO talks expansion and the challenges ahead.
40 A Cut Above Spring ’20 women’s low-cut socks are high on performance.
FN PICK 42 Victory Lap
The women of U.S. soccer celebrated an epic win last week.
HERE & ON
THE COVERPhotographed by ANDREW MORALES
COVER CREDITS (From left)OVADIA & SONS postcard camp shirtMONSE pu er pantsSMYTHSON x S’WELL leather water bottle holderBEST MADE Ventile Boonie hat GOLD TOE socks
RAG & BONE Padded Jack shirt BEST MADE work shirt3.1 PHILLIP LIM O set track pants and poplin bum bag with sleeves GOLD TOE socks
KHOMBU Baterick shoe with K-Vent drainage system; OVADIA & SONS tapestry shirt; MONSE quilted pants; GOLD TOE socks
F O O T W E A R N E W S // J U N E 1 7, 2 0 1 9 // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M
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VENUS VS. SERENA: A MATCH-UP OF THE FAMOUS SISTERS’ SHOE GAME Week of June 17 FN looks at the athletes’ shoe style just in time for Venus’ 39th birthday.
Venus Williams, left, celebrates after defeating her sister, Serena, in a match during the opening day of the Mubadala World Tennis Championship in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, in December 2018.
WHAT GOOD IS RAISING WAGES IF COMPANIES THEN TURN AROUND AND LAY OFF WORKERS?
Week of June 17The same day Walmart said that it was raising its minimum wage to $11 per hour, it also announced mass layo� s, and reports have speculated about whether Amazon will push for more automation now that it’s raised its minimum wage to $15 per hour.
A Walmart in Hartford, Conn., in May 2017.
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TOO MUCH TECH: What Brands Need to Know About What Does or Doesn’t Work
8
Of retail executives believe adding AI and VR to stores will increase sales
Of consumers are uncomfortable with how stores use tech to make shopping personalized
HOW BRANDS AND RETAILERS CAN BENEFIT FROM RENTAL SERVICES
Week of June 17Amid digital shifts and store closures, clothing rental services are on the rise. Here, retail experts and executives share how this disruptive business model can help compa-nies come out on top.
Rent the Runway
Of shoppers say AI and VR will have no impact on whether they visit a store
DATA: ORACLE NETSUITE STUDY
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AUGUST 12-14, 2019 | LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER | REGISTER TO ATTEND AT UBMFASHION.COM
THE WHO’S WHO IN SHOES THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION
OF FOOTWEAR BRANDS.
1.STATE / 27 EDIT* / A.S.98 / ACTIV* / AD TEC / ADAM TUCKER / AETREX / ALEGRIA BY PG LITE / ALISS* / ALL BLACK / ALLAN K. / ALLENS / ALLROUNDER / ALMA
EN PENA / AMALFI BY RANGONI / ANAKI PARIS* / ANDRE ASSOUS / ANDREA CONTI / ANDROID / ANGKAN / ANTELOPE / ANUSCHKA HANDBAGS / APRES BY LAMO
AQUATHERM / ARA / ARAVON / ARCHE / ARCOPEDICO / ARIA & NICA / ARO* / ART & NEOSENS / ART / ASH / ASPORTUGUESAS / ATELIERS COLLECTION / ATELIERS
AZURA / B.A.I.T FOOTWEAR / BUT ANOTHER INNOCENT TALE / B.O.C. / B52 BY BULLBOXER / BACCO BUCCI* / BAGGALLINI / BAHAMAS* / BANDOLINO / BCBGENERATION*
BCBGMAXAZRIA* / BEARPAW / BEAUTIFEEL / BERNIE MEV / BIBI LOU / BILL BLASS / BIONICA / BIRD OF FLIGHT / BLACK SUEDE STUDIO / BLACKSTONE / BLONDISH*
BLOWFISH MALIBU / BORDAN SHOE COMPANY / BORN / BOS & CO / BRAND X HUARACHES / BRUSQUE / BUENO / BUFFALO / BULLBOXER / BUSSOLA / BUTTER / BZEES
C*H20 / CALOU STOCKHOLM / CAMPER / CANAL SAINT MARTIN* / CANDY POP* / CARRANO / CARRIED AWAY* / CARTAGO WOMENS / CARTAGO / CASE IH / CASTA
CAT FOOTWEAR / CC CORSO COMO / CECELIA NEW YORK / CGEAR SAND FREE / CHACO* / CHAMPION KIDS / CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID / CHARLES DAVID
CHARLESTON SHOE CO. / CHARLIE STONE SHOES* / CHIE MIHARA / CHIE / CHOCOLAT BLU / CHOO CHOO SHOES / CHOOKA / CIRCLE G / CIRCUS BY SAM EDELMAN
CLIFF DWELLER / CLIFFS BY WHITE MOUNTAIN / CLOUD FOOTWEAR / CLOUD NINE SHEEPSKIN / COBB HILL BY ROCKPORT / COLE HAAN / COLOKO
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR COMPANY / COMFORTIVA / COOL CHIC* / CORDANI / CORKYS FOOTWEAR / CORRAL BOOT / COUGAR / CREATIVE RECREATION / CREVO / CROCS
CROSSMONT* / CUADRA / CYDWOQ / DA BELLA / DAN POST / DANNER / DANSKO / DARN TOUGH VERMONT / DAVID TATE / DB WIDER FIT SHOES / DE WULF* / DEARFOAMS
DIBA TRUE / DINGO EST. 1969 / DNA SUSTAINABLE* / DOGO / DOLCE NOME* / DONALD PLINER / DORKING / DR. JELL’S* / DUNHAM / EARTH / EARTH ORIGINS / EASTLAND
EASTLAND 1955 EDITION / EASTLAND MADE IN MAINE / EASY B / EASY SPIRIT / ECCO / EILEEN FISHER / EL NATURALISTA / ELEFANTE ROJO / EMERIL LAGASSE / ERIC MICHAEL
ESPIRIT / ETHEM / EUREKA / EVOLVE* / FALCOTTO / FANTASY SANDALS / FEIYUE / FERGIE FOOTWEAR / FIDELIO AUSTRIAN OOSLGN / FINN COMFORT / FINNAMIC BY FINN
COMFORT / FINNMELLOW BY FINN COMFORT / FIRST STEPS* / FLEXUS / FLOAFERS / FLOJOS / FLORSHEIM / FLORSHEIM WORK / FLUCHOS / FLY LONDON / FOOTMATES*
FOOTPETALS / FOUR SEASONS SHOE CARE PRODUCTS / FRANCO SARTO / FREE PEOPLE / FRENCH SOLE / FRYE / FRYE & CO / FRYE ACCESSORIES / GABOR
GAMEDAY BOOTS / GANTER / GBX / GENTLE SOULS BY KENNETH COLE / GEOX / GERBER* / GIESSWEIN / GIORGIO BRUTINI / GIZZE HANDMADE / GLAMOUR BAG*
GLAMOURSY KIDS* / GLAMOURSY* / GOLO / GRABBERS / GRASSHOPPERS / GRAVITY DEFYER* / GRENDENE KIDS / GRENDENE / GRENDHA* / GUTTERI / GUY HARVEY
HAFLINGER / HALSA FOOTWEAR* / HAPPY WALKING / HARLEY-DAVIDSON / HEELYS / HELLAS SHOES ART S.A.* / HENRIETTE STEFFENSEN* / HINIA* / HISPANITAS
HOMERS / HUNTER BOOT / HUSH PUPPIES KIDS / ILSE JACOBSEN HORNBAEK / IMAC / INDIGO RD.* / IPANEMA / IRON AGE / IRREGULAR CHOICE / ISLAND SLIPPER / ITASCA
IVYLEE COPENHAGEN / IZOD / J.RENEE’ / JAFA / JAINE KLAIN* / JAMBU / JAN “N” HANK / JBU / JEFFREY CAMPBELL* / JENNY / JERUSALEM SANDALS / JESSICA SIMPSON
JOHNSTON & MURPHY / JOMA SPORT / JOSE REAL* / JOSEF SEIBEL / JOSMO / JSLIDES / JSPORT / KALSO EARTH / KAMIK / KANNA / KEDS / KEDS KIDS
KELSI DAGGER BROOKLYN / KENDALL & KYLIE / KENNEL & SCHMENGER / KENNETH COLE / KENSIE / KIDY / KNAPP / KOMCERO* / KORK-EASE / KORKS / L’AMOUR DES PIEDS
L’ARTISTE / LA PINTA / LA PLUME / LACOSTE / LACROSSE / LAFORST SHOES INC. / LAIDBACK LONDON / LAMO / LAREDO WESTERN BOOTS / LAURA ASHLEY*
LAUREN LORRAINE / LIFESTRIDE / LIVESTUDIO / LOINTS OF HOLLAND / LOLA CRUZ / LORELLA* / LOUISE ET CIE / LUCCHESE / LUCKY BRAND / LUGZ / MACARENA
MAGIA TEEN / MAISON SI / MARC FISHER LTD / MARC FISHER* / MARCHA BALLERINA* / MARIAN* / MARK NASON LOS ANGELES / MBT / MCRAE WORK / ME TOO SHOES
MEPHISTO / MERRELL / MERRELL KIDS / MEZLAN* / MILO / MINNETONKA / MIZ MOOZ / MOBILS ERGONOMIC / MODZORI / MOJA / MOLLY BESSA* / MOOTSIES TOOTSIES
MUK LUKS / MUNRO / N.Y.L.A / N.Y.L.A. PREMIUM / NALHO / NANETTE LEPORE / NANETTE NANETTE LEPORE / NAOT FOOTWEAR / NAOT OUTDOOR / NATURALIZER
NATURE IS FUTURE / NATURINO / NEOSENS / NEW ROCK SHOES, S.L.* / NEXTKNIT SOCKS / NICKY HILTON X FRENCH SOLE / NICOLE MILLER* / NINE WEST / NINE WEST KIDS
NMD BRAZIL / NUNN BUSH / OFFLINE / ONEX / OOMPHIES / OS 1ST / P448 / PACIFIC MOUNTAIN / PADDERS / PAJAR / PAPUCEI / PAS DE ROUGE / PATAUGAS* / PATRIZIA
PAUL GREEN / PAUL MAYER/ATTITUDES / PEDRO ANTON SHOES* / PEGADA* / PELLE MODA / PENDLETON BOOT / PENGUIN / PENSOLE FOOTWEAR DESIGN ACADEMY
PETITE JOLIE / PHOTOBENCH SERIES / PHOTOCAPTURE 360 SERIES / PHOTOSIMILE SERIES / PICON* / PIKOLINOS / PINAZ / PLAKTON / POLO RALPH LAUREN KIDS / PONS
POPOL VUH / PROPET USA / PUMA SAFETY SHOES / RAG & CO* / RAINBOW SANDALS* / RANGONI AMERICA / RAPISARDI / RAS / RE-MIX CLASSIC VINTAGE / REACTION
KENNETH COLE / REBELS / REEBOK WORK / REGINA ROMERO / REMONTE / RESTRICTED / REVA / ORTHOTICA* / REVERE SHOES / RIALTO / RIDE TECS / RIDER SANDALS
RIEKER “ANTISTRESS” / RJ’S FUZZIES / ROAN / ROC BOOTS AUSTRALIA / ROCKET DOG / ROCKPORT / ROCKPORT WORKS / ROCSOC / AQMATECS / ROLLIE NATION / ROMIKA
ROSCOMAR LTD* / ROSEMUNDE COPENHAGEN* / ROVERS / ROXY / RUBY SHOO / RUSTIC ASPHALT / RYKA / S.O.N.A.L.I / SACHA LONDON / SAIRA SHOES* / SALAMANDAR
SALPY / SAM EDELMAN / SANDRINO COLLECTION / SANDRO MOSCOLONI / SANITA / SANO / SANTANA CANADA / SAS SHOES / SAUCONY KIDS / SAVA / SAVA / SCHUTZ
SCOTT HAWAII* / SEPOL / SERGIO TOMANI / SEVEN DIALS / SEVEN7 / SHERIDAN MIA / SHOE THE BEAR (COPENHAGEN) / SHOES FROM MEXICO / SHU SHOP* / SIGOTTO UOMO
SILENT D / SIMPLY NATURAL ALPACA / SOCKS N SOCKS / SOCKWELL / SOFFT / SOFTINO’S / SOFTWALK / SOLS* / SOMETHING BLEU / SOPHIE LAURENT / SOREL / SPERRY
SPERRY KIDS / SPLENDID / SPRING STEP / SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL / STACY ADAMS / STAHEEKUM / STEPPING STONES* / STONEFLY / STORM BY COUGAR / SUPERLAMB
SUPERRAMB / SUPERSOFT* / SUPPLY LAB / SUREFIT* / SWEDISH HASBEENS / TADPOLES* / TAHI SHOES / TAMARINDO / TAO PARIS / TAOS FOOTWEAR / TECS
TED BAKER LONDON / TESTOSTERONE / TESTOSTERONE / TEVA* / THE FLEXX / THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY / THERAFIT / THIERRY RABOTIN COUTURE
THIERRY RABOTIN / THINK! / TOMMY HILFIGER / TOMMY HILFIGER KIDS / TONI PONS / TORPEDO / TOSCANA USA / TR1 / TRAQ BY ALEGRIA / TRASK / TRETORN / TROTTERS
TSUKIHOSHI* / TWISTED X / U-DOT / UNICORN SHOES / UNIONBAY / UNIQERS* / UNITED NUDE / UNITY IN DIVERSITY / UNLISTED KENNETH COLE / USPA / V-ITALIA
VAGABOND SHOEMAKERS / VALENTINA RANGONI / VAN HEUSEN / VENETI / VENTOLATION / VENUS / VERBENAS* / VIBRAM / VIBRAM FIVE FINGERS / VIBRAM FUROSHIKI / VICENZA
VICTORIA / VINCE CAMUTO / VINTAGE7 / VIONIC / VITAL ARCH / VITAL MADE IN AUSTRIA / VITAL / VOILE BLANCHE* / W6YZ / WALDLAUFER / WALKING CRADLES / WANDA PANDA
WESTERN CHIEF / WHITE MOUNTAIN / WOLKY / WOLVERINE / WONDERS / WOOL / WORISHOFER / WORK ZONE / XOXO / XTRATUF / ZAXY / ZIERA / ZODIAC USA* + MANY MORE
*NEW BRAND
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS LISTED IN PURPLE
LIST PULLED AS OF 5/31/19 TO MEET OUR PRINTING DEADLINE AND MAY NOT REFLECT COMPLETE LIST OF BRANDS.
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INSIDER
Sustainable Future
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T H E B I G S T O R Y 11 F N S P Y 16 A R O U N D T H E G L O B E 18
WATER WORKS Inside Santoni’s new ocean-inspired collaboration. p16
JAPAN UP CLOSE How the casual shoe movement is taking over. p18
How Jim Pisani is using Timberland’s
eco-friendly roots to drive every aspect of the brand’s business.
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BY PETER VERRY
Prior to Timberland, Pisani was VF Corp’s licensed group president
Hours of community service by Timberland employees across the globe
It didn’t take long for Jim Pisani to understand Timberland’s vital role in nurturing the environment. // Just two weeks into his stint at the Stratham, N.H.-based company in 2016, the
global brand president was knee deep in the company’s eco-friendly initiative — getting his hands dirty transforming a vacant Bronx, N.Y., lot into a lush garden. // Three years later, Pisani is working to make sure eco-consciousness is at the center of everything VF Corp.-owned Timberland does.
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The company has rolled out aggressive goals —
under the banner of Timberland Environmental
Product Standards — that it intends to hit by
2020. The initiative includes having at least
one recycled, organic or renewable material on
all footwear styles and using leather only from
Leather Working Group (an organization that
works together to maintain environmental
standards) with gold or silver-rated tanneries.
Industry insiders believe these efforts will help
the brand resonate with the outdoor consumer.
“They are leveraging their commitment to the
environment and the service they give. This
is something they’ve done for a long time but
haven’t talked about much,” said Matt Powell,
sports industry analyst at The NPD Group Inc.
“They’re starting to step up and share their ef-
forts with the public. They’ve done great work but
many people didn’t know what they were doing.”
As Timberland makes its sustainability mes-
sage loud and clear, Powell believes the brand has
opportunity with two distinct groups of consum-
ers — the core outdoor enthusiast and the fickle
fashion shopper. “It’s always been a conflict for
them to be true to the outdoor community, and at
the same time be a part of streetwear, but they’re
navigating it really well,” Powell explained. “The
product they’re doing for streetwear is clearly un-
derstood, and the consumer [knows] it has little
to do with the outdoor-focused consumer.”
Despite Timberland’s progress, the label is
up against several challenges. A pair of VF Corp.
brands, Vans and The North Face, are growing at
a faster rate. And the business still relies heavily
on the male consumer, with about 70 percent of
its sales in men’s. (Timberland reported a 4% rev-
enue increase in the Americas for the 12 months
ended March 2019, while overall revenues were
up 2% on a constant currency basis.)
“There is still some real runway for them on
the women’s side,” Powell said. “They’ve made
strides, they’re not strictly doing takedowns from
men’s product, they’re making products just for
her now, but there’s still more work to do.”
Ahead of Outdoor Retailer Summer Mar-
ket this week, Pisani talks about winning with
women, sustainability initiatives and the pressure
to improve sales growth.
President Donald Trump’s proposed tariffs are dominating the conversation. How concerned are you about this issue? “Years ago, we were looking to diversify our
sourcing and where we make our products. We
have limited exposure in China. What we make
there and ship to the U.S. is less than 7% — our
sourcing is across multiple countries. We would
feel a limited impact.”
The outdoor industry has been at odds with the White House over several climate-related issues. How important is it for Timberland to participate in these tough discussions?“We need to take a stand for what we believe in
— from our values to our purpose — and do the
right thing. We’re going to put politics aside and
be bipartisan. We will step up and be bold. We
need to think about how [decisions] impact us
from a community perspective. For me, it’s about
walking the talk and doing things to protect
nature and the outdoors.”
How do you plan to elevate your sustainability messaging?“It’s embedded in our brand. Our team is part of
our strategy, it’s been that way for years and con-
tinues to evolve. We’re about having responsible
product and sourcing. We’ve given 350 million
PET bottles (made of polyethylene terephthal-
ate) new life in our product. We’ve served more
than 1.2 million hours of community service
across the globe, and we’ve planted more than
10.2 million trees. What’s new is we wanted to
be bolder in our communications and invite the
community to participate. You’re going to hear
about a new campaign, Nature Needs Heroes,
and see how we celebrate the everyday hero
who is making the future greener and brighter.
They’re strong influencers in their own right and
are connecting with Timberland. It’s a global
campaign and an overarching connectivity back
to our purpose.”
How close is the brand to hitting its 2020 goals?“We’re constantly working toward all of our
goals — whether it’s using sustainable organic
cotton or silver-and gold-rated tanneries for
our leather. With our Haiti Cotton initiative,
it’s sustainable, long-term, life-changing. We
hadn’t been able to farm cotton in Haiti for 30
years and were able to help those farmers start
growing organic cotton again. We support and
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Jim Pisani (right) during a recent Urban Greening event in Harlem, N.Y.
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T H E B I G S T O R Y
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T H E B I G S T O R Y
Prior to the initiative, Timberland said cotton hadn’t been produced in Haiti for 30 years
CITY SLICKERTIMBERLAND’S NEXT SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT, A CITY-READY SNEAKER-BOOT, HITS STORES IN JULY.
Keeping with its sustainability mission, Timberland has a new eco-friendly silhouette made with the urban outdoor adventurer in mind. Hitting retail on July 22 is the Brooklyn EK+, a clean and sleek sneaker-boot the company said expresses eco-innovation, similar to the Earthkeepers boot debut in 2007. It will retail for $120. In line with Timberland’s commitment to increase its use of recycled, organic and renewable materials in all of its products, the Brooklyn EK+ boasts uppers, linings and laces made with ReBOTL, a proprietary tech made from recycled plastic. The lightweight and sporty look also employs soles made with 34% recycled rubber. — P.V.
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front and center — the assortment and how it’s
orchestrated gives us a diff erent view. As we talk
to our female consumer, we do it in a diff erent
way. We might have previously done it through a
male voice but now it’s changed. We have a direct
marketing approach — and from a product per-
spective, you see colors and a softer side of Tim-
berland. But it still has our rugged attitude and
our DNA in it. She’s something that continues to
be a focus for us across the globe — we’ve seen
great growth in our European women’s business
as well as the Americas and we’ll look to do this
moving forward in Asia Pacifi c as well.”
help them, but ultimately, they did it as a group.
We just gave them the resources — and Vans is
going to help as well. For us to be able to impact
that community in a bigger, broader way and to
be able to provide a future for those workers is
important for us. On our end, we’ll be able to
source the product from Haiti.”
How well does Timberland execute and promote sustainability compared to the greater outdoor industry?“We’re the leader in footwear, and as a lifestyle
brand we’re one of the top. But we’re not perfect,
we need to get better. We make products so there
are certain aspects that aren’t sustainable, but
our goal is to be planet positive someday. That’s
a lofty goal, but it’s one that’s important for us.
We’ve been doing this a long time and we’ve got
to get better year after year.”
Where do you see the most growth opportunity?“First and foremost, we want to continue to
diversify our portfolio. Men’s, women’s and
contemporary casual footwear, work and apparel
— those are all key categories. Elevating DTC
and digital will continue to be [priorities]. From
an Asia perspective, focusing on China is a key
strategy for us. Making sure we have healthy
sustainable growth across each region is really
important, focusing on a premium position
within our categories.”
How will Timberland cater to female consumers moving forward?“It’s one of the biggest opportunities for the
brand. When I came here a few years back and I
walked in the stores, it was challenging. [Now if
you go] into our Fifth Avenue store in New York,
you can clearly identify our women’s product
With the collaborations game constantly shift-ing, how are you capitalizing on this platform?“We’ve been fortunate to work with some of the
most creative brands and minds in the indus-
try, and we’ll continue to do that. One area
we’re focused is purpose-led collaborations. We
recently did one with Pharrell [Williams] called
‘Something in the Water.’ He [returned] to his
hometown in Virginia Beach to give back — we
had a pop-up and talked about how a greener
environment will lead to a brighter future for all
of us — and we did community service and volun-
teerism. We have a program with the NBA com-
ing this fall. The product is great, but there’s also
a volunteerism connection through NBA Cares
where we go out into the local community. Our
collaborations are going to be global and mean-
ingful. They’ll bring relevance, but we also know
consumers want more than just great product,
they want a brand that stands for something.”
Timberland hasn’t posted the growth that other VF Corp. brands have, such as Vans and The North Face, with improvements of 26% and 10%, respectively. What is your take on their performance?“Being part of the VF portfolio and having brands
like Vans and The North Face doing extremely well
is helpful for us. We share best practices — every-
thing around retail, digital, supply chain, con-
sumer insights and understanding of what’s going
on in the marketplace. Those are all advantages we
have being part of VF, and we’re able to learn from
one another. We’re certainly focused on our busi-
ness and the healthy sustainable growth that we
want to continue to build across the globe, I stay
focused on that, but I certainly reach out for ideas.
And we’re part of the senior leadership team so we
get together quite a bit to share best practices and
what’s working and what’s not.”
14
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I N S I D E R
HOT TAKE
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WEEKLY UPS AND DOWNS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEENTopshop faces uncertain future
Ralph Lauren’s 2019 Sustainability Report
Lululemon Q1 earnings soar
Nike baller Kevin Durant ruptures Achilles
Hudson’s Bay Co. makes bid to go private
When it comes to fashion, Zooey Deschanel champions both comfort and style. The singer, actress and mother of two recently became a brand ambassador for Crocs’ Come As You Are Campaign. “I always wore fl ats or lower-heeled shoes when I play shows for my band,” said Deschanel, on embracing sensible footwear. The “New Girl” star added that she felt pressured to wear high heels on the red carpet, but decided to value comfort over expectations for women in the spotlight. “I recently I thought: ‘I can’t be happy if I’m not comfortable,’”she said. Deschanel added, “Crocs came to me last year with the idea and I loved the message behind the [campaign]. I really resonate with that. I always encourage people to be themselves and wear their own style.” Some of her Croc favorites include the Women’s LiteRide Pacer, and for her kids, the Classic Clog in pink and blue. — Madeleine Crenshaw
Ciara isn’t afraid to push the fashion envelope. Ever since she stepped out on the music scene in 2004 with the “Goodies” video wearing a swimsuit and jeans, it was clear the singer had her own sense of style. “You have to know who you are when it comes to fashion and expressing yourself as an artist because that’s a huge part of how people remember you,” she told FN at the 2019 ACE awards where she accepted the Style Icon Award. “You want there to be a visual when they think of you.” Ciara is looking to evolve her identity even more through her own collection. She said, “I have plans to do a lot in the fashion space. It’s all about timing, but I have been taking meetings, getting mood boards together. When the time is right things will roll out. I can’t wait to get my feet wet and start expressing myself through clothing and fashion.” — N.J.
The Santoni x So� a Sanchez collection will be available in
DecemberZac Posen on the fashion industry’s diversity and inclusion focus: “I’ve defi nitely seen some
progress. It’s important that we make it a strong message and it’s not just a fad or trend. For me, the world is defi ned through its diversity as beauty and I’ve always seen it that way and represented it that way. I would say over the years it wasn’t always accepted by the fashion community but I’m proud of where the industry has gotten to.” – N.J.
Making Waves Santoni and So� a Sanchez de Betak are putting sustainability � rst for an upcoming resort ’20 collaboration. BY NIKARA JOHNS
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Sofi a Sanchez de Betak is getting her feet wet in
more ways than one. The art director is designing
shoes for the very fi rst time alongside Italian luxury
label Santoni, and the inspiration behind this
collaboration is the ocean.
Sustainability was top of mind for both parties
when they created the resort ’20 capsule collection.
“I’ve always been conservative with the use of
plastic. It made sense to do something environmen-
tally conscious and now that I have a
daughter it made sense even more,”
Sanchez de Betak told FN. “We need to
generate more awareness. I know how
precious our world is.”
“The idea was to create this
capsule with a strong message,”
CEO Giuseppe Santoni said, adding
that a portion of the proceeds will be
donated to a non-profi t association
that deals with the preservation of
the oceans.
The company has been eco-con-
scious since 2005, using solar panels at
its factory to produce energy. A recycled water system
is also in place for rainwater recovery and reuse. “Our
building is made by 90% recycled materials,” said
Santoni. “We don’t use plastic in our production and
even in the company. The idea was to be sustainable
because I believe the people who have big opportuni-
ties have to be responsible for the future.”
As a seasoned scuba-diver, Sanchez de Betak
looked towards the underwater world for design
ideas. She said, “I’ve been scuba diving since a
young age. This was my fi rst passion. I dove with
whales, sharks, dolphins. I dove in Korea, Australia,
Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands, in the Caribbean
and Red Sea. I could not believe there was another
world down there.”
The collection is fi lled with nods to the ocean,
featuring seashells, coral reef motifs, and tones of
blue and sand in fl ats, mules, sandals and boots.
Plus, it’s a departure from the typical brand aesthetic,
which Santoni said he’s hoping will attract more U.S.
consumers to the label’s women’s category.
“This line is more light and feminine, which we
proved we can do,” Santoni explained.
Zac Posen at the 2019 CFDA Awards
The Crocband Clog
Behind the scenes at the Crocs campaign shoot
Visit us at OR booth #49142-ULPlease contact your local sales representative to preview our Fall 2019 Collection.
Untitled-1 1 6/5/19 4:44 PM
skyrocket. “Kicks are still big,”
she said. “[In the last few
seasons] there have even been
niche made-in-Japan sneaker
brands popping up — Moon-
star, Blueover, Spring Move,
just to name a few.”
Alongside these indie
kicks, other local labels
with an eye for wearability
and functionality have also
emerged in the market — and
become widely sought-after
both in Asia and abroad.
Suicoke, which makes practical outdoor footwear,
is one of them.
“The speedy growth of the footwear industry
has made Japanese buyers more interested in ex-
ploring different sides of the sector that may not
have been as popular in the past,” said a designer
behind the notoriously anonymous brand. “That
has opened up chances for a brand like ours.”
Sellenatala, a women’s brand that sells crafts
boots made of water-repellent leather to fight
off Japan’s frequent rain, has also been riding
the small-but-ascending wave of interest around
made-in-Japan names.
“We’re building the niche sector,” said designer
Ikue Enomoto. “More people are trying to see
meaning, value and stories in what they pur-
chase, while seeking comfort.”
For now, Western brands still rule the game,
but Morlan believes things are changing. “There
is a good amount of people who specifically look
for Japanese shoemakers,” she said.
An array of sneaker street style from last
fall’s Tokyo Fashion Week
A display from the Nike Kicks Lounge in Tokyo, which opened in 2017
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Walking into a mall in Tokyo, it’s easy to see that
Japanese customers crave comfort. They are also
really into sneakers — at least for now.
Athletic footwear dominates the sector in the
country, with giants such as Nike and Adidas
leading the throng.
Following closely behind are domestic brands
such as Asics and Mizuno, which shoppers tend
to prefer when it comes to actually hitting the
gym or jogging, according to Kaori Kawabata, an
analyst for sports footwear at The NPD Group
Inc., a market research company with offices in
Japan.
“Local labels are seen as quality, more appro-
priate choices for exercising,” she said. “Which is
why they still perform well, despite the big influx
of Western companies we’ve seen in recent years.
People trust them.”
Coming third in the sector are walking shoes
— footwear that’s casual and easy to move in.
“Japanese people tend to have very long com-
mutes and have to use busy public transportation,
which requires standing and walking for a long
time. Because of that, there is a high demand for
shoes that are walkable and comfortable all day
long, yet are still visually appealing,” said Wakana
Morlan, strategist at cross cultural consulting,
branding and marketing agency Btrax, which
focuses on the Japanese market.
The shift to casual footwear is fairly recent.
Over the years, Japan’s formal office culture
helped fashion brands from Jimmy Choo to
Coach develop a strong consumer following in the
region.
But consumer preferences have shifted, so
much so that office attire is under the micro-
scope. This month, more than 26,000 women
signed a petition protesting wardrobe restrictions
by Japanese companies, particularly their rules
requiring high heels in the office.
“As pop culture from the West has seeped
through Japan and our codes of societal conduct
have become slightly more relaxed, low-key shoes
have started seeing a surge in popularity,” Kawa-
bata said. “The trend isn’t as strong as South
Korea, where it’s acceptable to dress casually in
the office, but it’s grown.”
While sneaker market growth has seen
relatively flat growth between 2017 and today, it
experienced rapid increases between 2014 and
2016 — when revenues rose to $1.65 billion from
$1.3 billion.
While sneakers remain a favorite among
shoppers — particularly younger generations —
the hype around some styles, such as Air Maxes,
Asics Gel-Kayanos and the like, has cooled off a
bit. “Over the last two years, the market has been
flat,” Kawabata said. “The sneaker obsession is
not as strong as it used
to be. We’ve actually
seen almost negative
growth since 2017.”
But Morlan said
sneakers still have
strong momentum in
the country as global
demand continues to
A R O U N D T H E G L O B E
Inside Japan’s Growing Casual Footwear Trend While dressed-up styles used to dominate, sneakers have taken hold. BY MARIANNA CERINI
“MORE PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO SEE MEANING, VALUE AND STORIES IN WHAT THEY PURCHASE, WHILE SEEKING COMFORT.” — IKUE ENOMOTO
Number of women who signed a
petition protesting Japanese workplace rules requiring high
heels
26K
NPD analyst KAORI KAWABATA said Japanese consumers still prefer in-store experiences and gravitate to traditional advertising.
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industry: companies that make tie-free lacing systems.
Hickies, for one, developed a set of thermal-plastic polymer fastenings
that can be threaded through a shoe’s eyelets in various creative ways
for customized tightness and fit. Caterpy’s offering looks the most like a
conventional lace but with a series of bumps along its length that hold it
in place, without the need for a knot or bow.
“You thread like normal but you can control tension per row through-
out the whole shoe,” said Anthony Pong, managing partner at Caterpy.
“You can make each row tighter or looser to match your foot shape, if you
have certain foot pains or wide feet. They also make your shoes into slip-
on shoes without breaking the heel, as the laces are elastic.”
And at Boa, the B2B company created a fit system specifically for the
most challenging activities and environments in the world. A dial system
controls laces that run throughout the shoe, which can be adjusted for
tension as needed by the user. The product offering ranges from the
high-powered H Series, which brands have incorporated into footwear for
snowboarding and ski mountaineering, to the low-powered L Series that
is used in trail running and golf shoes.
“Historically, if you looked at closure systems, you were trying to
For years, athletic brands
catered to time-crunched
consumers’ appetite for
shoes they could easily
put on and take off.
Tying shoelaces, for
some people, is often an
irritant — particularly
for the parents of young
children. And for the
elderly, disabled, sick or
pregnant, the act of bending down to tie laces
may also be physically challenging or even im-
possible. Then there are athletes, for whom an
ill-fitting or hard-to-adjust shoe could impact
their performance.
But the popularity of laceless shoes — think
Nike HyperAdapt, Vans slip-ons or anything
with Velcro — has given rise to another cottage
New closure systems are encouraging customers to ditch their shoelaces for something a little more high-tech.
Tying Up Big Business
“Historically, if you looked
at closure systems, you were trying
to effectively close a product — you weren’t thinking of its performance features,” said Shawn Neville,
CEO at Boa Technology.
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Boa products are rigorously tested to ensure they can withstand twice the tension of anticipated use
2421
for marathons and triathlons, it places an
emphasis on aesthetics. In addition to the
main and kids’ collections, Hickies launched
a partnership collection with Swarovski that
features crystals embedded in the strap. It also
releases a limited-edition “color of the month”
product; due to their popularity, the soft pink
and translucent styles have since been made
available year-round. Well-known wearers
include Gigi Hadid and Jessica Alba.
“A lot of the stuff we see out there, it feels
bulky, it looks bulky and intrusive,” said Keith
Martine, marketing manager at Hickies. “What
we want to provide is the option to put some
innovation in your shoes, some customization,
that can either blend in or stand out.”
eff ectively close a product — you weren’t thinking of its performance
features,” said Shawn Neville, CEO at Boa Technology. “If you have a lace
or Velcro, you have to stop and completely re-do your product. With Boa,
you can ‘dial in’ your fi t in seconds.”
Footwear innovators have largely targeted athletes fi rst, due to the
emphasis placed on performance and edging out the competition. At Boa,
the company has designed its products with the elite athlete in mind
and is planning to reduce its number of brand partners in order to focus
on quality and innovation. The athletes who push the technology to the
limit are showcased in Boa’s “Pioneers” campaign; extreme alpinist Max
Berger recently paraglided off the peak of mountain K-2.
For direct-to-consumer Caterpy, the decision to focus on the U.S.
athletic market also provided an opportunity to rebrand. Originally
founded in Japan, Caterpy swapped its colorful, cartoon-heavy messaging
for a performance-based campaign that has been adopted by all its global
markets. While the company still retains a strong customer base in the
elderly and disabled, it is growing its sponsorship deals and is planning
to expand its colorways to attract a younger, sports-based market.
“Our inventor was an avid marathon runner,” said Pong. “In Japan,
we have a partnership with Asics, we’re the offi cial shoelace of Spartan —
the same company as American Ninja Warrior — and we also sponsor the
world record holder for Ironman right now, Matt Hanson.”
Not everyone is competing at the level of an Ironman participant,
but alternatives to shoelaces are still growing in popularity for use in
casualwear. While Hickies maintains that its users have worn the product
HOW SUSTAINABILITY TIES IN
By the Numbers
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For many customers, a brand needs to off er not just a high-quality product but also a demonstrated commitment to the environment. Fortunately for these closure companies, eco-friendly initiatives are already top of mind.
Caterpy laces avoid the “choking spot” often created by too-tight laces
2000The number of miles that a Caterpy lace can travel
Hickies recently collaborated with
APL to sell the APL Techloom Pro
sneaker with the brand pre-installed
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<1%The failure rate of Boa’s product line
6M packs of Hickies were sold in May 2019
HICKIES• Packaging is both recyclable and made from recycled materials
• The head piece of the fastening will be replaced with a recycled polymer
• Tests are being done to fi nd a sustainable alternative to the patented polymer currently being used for the main strap
CATERPY• All packaging is recyclable
• There is an emphasis on reusing the Caterpy lace; tests have shown the product’s average lifetime is three to fi ve pairs of shoes
• Scrap fabric from manufacturing is used to create hair ties, to minimize waste
BOA• Packaging will be entirely sustainable (recycled, recyclable, rapid degradability) in fi ve years’ time
• The use of virgin plastic will be reduced by a minimum of 50% over the next 10 years
• By 2027, Boa will incorporate recycled or renewably sourced materials into all of its products
ASM1908-FootwearNews_FINAL.indd 1 5/3/19 4:29 PMUntitled-6 1 6/6/19 12:02 PM
BY ERIN E. CLACK
L E S L I E G A L L I NPRESIDENT OF FOOTWEAR, INFORMA
Whatʼs new: “August marks a milestone move
for Magic. We are bringing all of our Las Vegas
shows under one roof at the Las Vegas Convention
Center. The move o� ers a unique opportunity to
reposition footwear on the show fl oor alongside its
apparel lifestyle counterparts. It gives footwear-on-
ly retailers a look into next season’s apparel trends,
helping them select the right shoe colors and
styles. The changes also will create a more robust
tra� c fl ow and provide our footwear exhibitors
access to apparel retailers who buy footwear.” Fresh faces: Teva, Voile Blanche, Roscomar, Rapisardi,
First Steps Hot categories: “Casual styles for both
women and men continue to trend. Also, women’s
midheight heeled boots and mules.” Social media initiatives: “We are pulling out all the stops when it
comes to social media and onsite activations.
Engagement is our buzzword. We are looking
to create Instagramable moments. Social media
is about fun, information, social awareness and
branding.” Top selling points: “As a show, we o� er
brands that enable retailers to gain a healthy
margin. We also provide a lot of value for our
attendees, including networking [opportunities],
education and experiences to help grow their busi-
nesses.” Attendance forecast: “We expect attendance
to be up from the last show because we don’t have
any date overlaps with other events.” Industry challenges: “Retailers need to break out of their
SHOWING OFFLeaders from footwear’s largest trade shows share how they’re adapting and evolving their events in today’s uncertain climate.
As the industry grapples with tremendous change and challenges — from the looming threat of tari� s to waves of store closures — trade show operators are working hard to maintain their must-attend status and deliver more value to their guests. Some are making location changes aimed at delivering greater convenience and e� ciency, while others are stepping up their service with expanded educational o� erings, networking opportunities and hospitality perks such as free meals and co� ee. Digital initiatives also remain a key priority, as shows increasingly utilize online tools and social media to help brands and buyers better connect and build their businesses. And more than ever, shows are curating a robust roster of established and up-and-coming brands as a way to attract buyers. Here, the directors of � ve of the market’s largest domestic and international events share their plans for the season ahead.
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comfort zone. In Europe, you see the energy in
independent retail stores and it makes you wonder
why this is not happening in the U.S. Retailers
need better assortments, more unique in-store
experiences and more engaged salespeople. They
need to o� er the consumer something they do not
already own and that they cannot easily fi nd on
the internet for a lower price.” Outlook: “Generally
positive. There are many retailers out there who
have found their niche — they are laser-focused on
who they are, what they produce and what makes
them stand out from the crowd. They are embrac-
ing digital tools and working to build new brand
relationships to attract customers.”
J O H N H E R O NEXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FFANY
Whatʼs new: “We are debuting our brand showcase
at 24 W. 57th St. It’s a new venue — centrally lo-
cated next to FFANY’s member showrooms and the
Warwick Hotel exhibitions — that o� ers
retailers an opportunity to preview a curated
showcase of top brands while enjoying FFANY
hospitality. Featured brands will include Dansko,
Birkenstock, Crocs, Cougar, Washington Shoe
Company, Propet, Valencia and Bearpaw.” Fresh faces: “We are thrilled to welcome back Foot-
wear Unlimited and its brands: Baretraps, Lucca
Lane, Andrew Geller and Wear.Ever. Other new
brands include Enter Beach, QKD and Realplay.”
Hot categories: “After the dreary and wet spring,
we are ready to see sandals. Also, there are lots
of mules on the street and in stores this spring,
so it will be interesting to see the updates to this
silhouette.” Social media initiatives: “We are looking
to launch a more interactive mobile application
for future shows with tools that make conducting
business in New York as convenient and simple
as possible.” Top selling points: “Our core principle
of showcasing the top national brands has always
been, and will continue to be, the leading attrac-
tion to retailers. In addition to that, our hospital-
ity for retailers at a centrally located showcase is
going to be terrifi c. We will have breakfast, lunch,
snacks, afternoon wine, as well as made-to-order
co� ees and smoothies each day.” Attendance forecast: “Realistically, we expect attendance to be
down a bit. As both the retail and wholesale
sectors continue to consolidate and a higher
percentage of footwear is purchased direct-to-
consumer, attendance is naturally declining. We
are focusing our e� orts on who is coming and how
can we make it as advantageous as possible for
At the FN Platform show, shoe brands will exhibit alongside similar ready-to-wear labels
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them to conduct business.” Industry challenges: “The looming tari uncer-
tainty is foremost on everyone’s mind and will ultimately determine the
success of the year for everyone in footwear.” Outlook: “The fi rst half of
the year has been tough across almost every sector. There have been
some bright spots, but all in all — and I hate to blame it on this — the
weather has conspired against the industry this year. Even with a late
Easter, we have not seen the warm early-spring days that bring out
the sandal shopper and jump-start the season consistently across the
country. But footwear people are resilient.”
L A U R A C O N W E L L O ’ B R I E NEXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
Whatʼs new: “We have cultivated a unique exhibitor and attendee experi-
ence — while not distracting from the goal of writing orders — in several
key ways. Our exhibitors are investing in the retailer’s experience with
bigger and better custom exhibits. Our cocktail reception is growing and
is the place to have fun and continue networking o the show fl oor.”
Fresh faces: Casta, Regina Romero, Verbenas, Vagabond, Ateliers Hot categories: “Comfort and lifestyle brands still rule. Comfort lines are
becoming more stylish, so the consumer is not compromising on fashion.
Athletics are coming in very strong, as well.” Social media initiatives: “Our
‘featured exhibitor’ social casts promote unique stories across multiple
channels. This summer, we are introducing the Capture experience,
which will provide exhibitors an opportunity to share rich, show-based
content across web and social platforms to help deepen engagement
and relationships both during and after the show.” Top selling points: “We continue to fi nd ways to make shopping the show innovative and
easy. We o er educational seminars, complimentary hospitality areas,
an opening-night cocktail party and casino night and more.” Attendance forecast: “I expect attendance to be up, as we saw a huge increase in
February. Our show has become a very strong contender in the industry,
o ering attendees great value and ease in shopping under one roof, as
well as an opportunity to see all the top brands. In addition, Atlanta is
easy to fl y in and out of, especially for our international visitors.” Industry challenges: “The unknown is still one of the biggest. Also, the U.S. and
China trade tensions are a huge factor.” Outlook: “Uncertainty and
confusion are two of the most challenging issues facing retailers in the
second half of the year and beyond. Digital business continues to grow,
and companies are selling direct to the consumer, creating challenges for
traditional retailers.”
T O M M A S O C A N C E L L A R ACEO, MICAM MILANO
Whatʼs new: “The upcoming Micam is particularly dear to us as it’s the
50th edition. As such, it represents an excellent opportunity to listen to
companies and buyers and tackle the challenges facing the market with
renewed motivation. The mission of Micam remains the same today: to
be at the service of operators, providing them with a constantly evolving
business tool. And there will be newness, surprises and opportunities
to contemplate how far we’ve come in recent years and to identify new
goals.” Fresh faces: “In addition to the most interesting made-in-Italy
brands, there will be foreign companies defi ned by their high quality and
variety, not to mention emerging young designers. The latter will have a
dedicated area in Pavilion 4, and their collections will be showcased on
the runway on Sept. 16.” Hot categories: “The most lively and well-devel-
oped category is still women’s shoes, which tends to be more connected
to fashion trends and innovations in design.” Social media initiatives: “To
make our social media presence even more interactive, international
infl uencers have been promoting the event to communities that are
strategic for made-in-Italy exports, such as the U.S. and China, and in so
doing are contributing to the positive trend that is set to keep growing.
We also have new surprises in store for our September fair.” Top selling points: “To stay in line with retailers who need their businesses to be
increasingly profi table but have very little time to spend at the fair, we’re
focusing on expanding and improving the standard of our services to
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Market sits at the front of
the buying season. That
means we’re going to see
the latest outdoor gear as it
is launched. All three fl oors
of the Colorado Conven-
tion Center are full, and
Venture Out — the area
highlighting trendsetting
brands and products — is
the biggest it’s ever been,
with nearly 100 exhibitors.
We also have an expanded
overlanding zone and have seen a lot of growth in
the CBD and wellness categories. Also, the Demo
Experience will be in a new location with a beach,
trails and lake to test products. We’re also excited
for the ninth annual Outdoor Retailer Inspira-
tion Awards.” Fresh faces: Jerusalem Sandals,
FlipRocks, Chrome Industries Hot categories: “We’ve seen a resurgence in trail running. Familiar
road-racing brands are hitting the trail with new
technical models including Nike Trail, Hoka One
One and Saucony.” Social media initiatives: “We’re
highlighting the theme of inspiration to coincide
with the Inspiration Awards, which will be held
on the fi rst night. Across our digital channels,
we’re celebrating the people helping the industry
grow and evolve. There’s a huge uptick in activity
[on our social media] around the shows, and we
make it a point to capitalize on those days to truly
represent the vibe and sense of community.” Top
selling points: “We have redirected our marketing
e� orts so they better resonate. In the past, there
was an emphasis on direct mail or blanket emails,
and now we’ve shifted to more personal outreach
to retailers. We’re visiting more stores and attend-
ing regional shows to tell the OR story, and we
have a scholarship program for stores facing a
hardship.” Attendance forecast: “We expect to see
attendance on par with last year.” Outlook: “Trade
and tari� s are a big topic of conversation. So many
outdoor products are facing an additional import
tari� if sourced from China — from hiking boots
to sleeping bags and tent poles — and all other
apparel and footwear. These costs will also impact
retailers and consumers. As the industry gathers at
the show, we expect to see everyone come together
to support e� orts by the Outdoor Industry Associa-
tion and others, and hopefully make a collective
push to prevent any new tari� s.”
make visiting us easier, more e� cient and fun.”
Attendance forecast: “Our September 2018 edition
had 45,424 visitors, representing a 4% increase
in international visitors and nearly 2% increase
in Italian visitors. These results show that Micam
is increasingly important to the global industry.
We’d like this trend to continue, but we’re also sure
there will be a slight fall in the number of exhibi-
tors over the next few editions, as we are being
more selective with regard to the brands taking
part.” Industry challenges: “Current economic and
political changes pose complex challenges. From
the return of duties on certain products to the
unprecedented Brexit situation, these scenarios
complicate the industry’s dynamics. These factors
run alongside the di� cult balances already at play,
such as the aggressive down-pricing strategies of
countries like China, the criminal counterfeiting
that continues to prosper and the dynamics of
international and national economics that
impact purchasing.” Outlook: “We face many
challenges at the international level; however,
we’re sure that looking beyond the borders of the
local market is the only way to remain competitive.
It certainly won’t be an easy year, but we implore
the sector not to be discouraged.”
M A R I S A N I C H O L S O NVP AND SHOW DIRECTOR, OUTDOOR RETAILER
Whatʼs new: “For the fi rst time, our Summer
LABEL ARRAY JUNE 17-19; OCT. 14-16
California Market Center, Los Angeles
OUTDOOR RETAILERJUNE 18-19; NOV. 5 - 7
Colorado Convention Center, Denver
SHOE MARKET OF THE AMERICAS JUNE 23-24; SEPT. 8-9
Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
LINEAPELLE JULY 9
Ham Yard Hotel, London
JULY 17-18
Metropolitan Pavilion, New York
OCT. 2-4
Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
CABANA SHOWJULY 13-15
Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, Fla.
The OR show will host several seminars focused on sustainability
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MARKET DAYA roundup of industry trade shows for the second half of 2019.
CLEAR EXCESS INVENTORY*
RECEIVE A TAX DEDUCTION FOR YOUR GIFT
HELP FOOTWEAR FAMILIES IN NEED
TWOTEN.ORG/[email protected] • 781.736.1500
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FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/11/19 11:08 AMFN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 5:43 PM
LABEL ARRAY JUNE 17-19; OCT. 14-16
California Market Center, Los Angeles
OUTDOOR RETAILERJUNE 18-19; NOV. 5 - 7
Colorado Convention Center, Denver
SHOE MARKET OF THE AMERICAS JUNE 23-24; SEPT. 8-9
Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
LINEAPELLE JULY 9
Ham Yard Hotel, London
JULY 17-18
Metropolitan Pavilion, New York
OCT. 2-4
Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
CABANA SHOWJULY 13-15
Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, Fla.
SEPT. 14-16
Pier 94, New York
CAPSULE JULY 13-15
Miami Beach Convention Center
SEPT. 14-16
Pier 94, New York
PREMIERE VISION
JULY 16-17
Pier 94, New York
SEPT. 17-19
Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris
PURE LONDON
JULY 21-23
Olympia London, London
LIBERTY FASHION & LIFESTYLE FAIRS JULY 22-24
Pier 94, New York
AUG. 12-14
Sands Expo, Las Vegas
BLUEGRASS BUYERS MARKETJULY 28-29
Embassy Suites, Lexington, Ky.
CHILDREN’S GREAT EVENT SHOE SHOW JULY 30-31
The Marriott Glenpointe Hotel, Teaneck, N.J.
TRU SHOW
AUG. 4-5
Embassy Suites San Francisco Waterfront, Burlingame, Calif.
CHILDREN’S CLUB
AUG. 4-6
Pier 94, New York
FFANYAUG. 5-9; DEC. 2-6
Member showrooms, Warwick Hotel, 24 W. 57th St., New York
THE MATERIALS SHOW AUG. 6-7
Aleppo Shriners Auditorium, Wilmington, Mass.
AUG. 14-15
Oregon Convention Center, Portland, Ore.
MAGICAUG. 12-14
Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas
For the fi rst time, all Magic shows are under one roof, including FN Platform, WWDMagic, Project and Footwear Sourcing.
FN PLATFORMAUG. 12-14
Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas
FOOTWEAR SOURCING AT MAGICAUG. 12-14
Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas
AGENDAAUG.12-14
Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas
NORTHWEST SHOE TRAVELERS AUG. 16-18
St. Paul River Centre, St. Paul, Minn.
ATLANTA SHOE MARKET AUG. 18-20
Cobb Galleria Centre, Atlanta
TORONTO SHOE SHOW AUG. 18-20
The Toronto Congress Centre, Toronto
MICHIGAN SHOE REPUBLIC AUG. 25-26
Embassy Suites, Livonia, Mich.
NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO
AUG. 25-27
Merchandise Mart, Chicago
SAPICA AUG. 27-30
Poliforum León Guanajuato, León, Mexico
CHICAGO SHOE MARKET AUG. 28-29
Embassy Suites Downtown, Chicago
GALLERY SHOESSEPT. 1-3
Areal Bohler, Dusseldorf, Germany
ALL CHINA LEATHER EXHIBITION SEPT. 3-5
Shanghai New International Expo Centre
SURF EXPOSEPT. 5-7
West Concourse, Orlando, Fla.
WHO’S NEXT SEPT. 6-9
Porte de Versailles, Paris
NORTHWEST MARKET ASSOCIATION SEPT. 7-10
Embassy Suites, Tigard, Ore.
BOSTON SHOE TRAVELERS ASSOCIATION SEPT. 8-10
DoubleTree by Hilton, Manchester, N.H.
MOSSHOES SEPT. 10-13
Crocus Expo, Moscow
MOMADSEPT. 12-14
Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain
COTERIE/SOLE COMMERCE SEPT. 15-17
Javits Center, New York
MICAM MILANOSEPT. 15-17
Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Micam, which will highlight made-in-Italy brands and emerging designers.
MIPELSEPT. 15-17
Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
PREMIERE CLASSE SEPT. 27-30
Jardin des Tuileries, Paris
TRAOI WOMEN’S SEPT. 27-30
Palais de la Bourse, Carrousel du Louvre, Paris
THE RUNNING EVENT DEC. 3-5
Austin Convention Center, Austin, Texas
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MARKET DAYA roundup of industry trade shows for the second half of 2019.
FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 5:46 PM
W I L DI N T O T H E
Menswear gets adventurous with rugged, utilitarian ready-to-wear that’s tough enough to keep up with the technical footwear and gear that inspired the look.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ANDREW MORALES
STYLE DIRECTOR
SHANNON ADDUCCI
MARKET EDITOR
PETER VERRY
S T Y L EF NThis page
MERRELL Altalight Knit lightweight hikers with Stratafuse exoskeleton
MICHAEL KORS turquoise crewneck sweater
BURTON MINE 77 Weatherly cargo shorts
NIKE Tech Pack 2-in-1 running shorts
GOLD TOE socks worn throughout
Opposite page (from left)
THE NORTH FACE EQBC slide with nylon ripstop and buckle closure system
MONSE plaid shirt coat
HERON PRESTON Airport Security Jkt Dots CTNMB jacket
FEIGN denim cuto� shorts
CHACO FOOTWEAR Chillo sandals with EVA midsoles and jacquard straps
ABYSM leather shirt
BURTON Clingman shorts
MICHAEL KORS knit bucket hat
Models’ own jewelry worn throughout
29
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KEEN Highland-M shoe with lace-lock bungee system
3.1 PHILLIP LIM funnel neck vest
MONSE half-zip turtleneck
NIKE Aerolayer running vest
LANDLORD nylon denim pants
BURTON Beeracuda cooler bag
ON LOCATION: LEGEND OF THE FALLSThe western U.S. is incomparable when it comes to hiking trails and the vistas that accompany them. But Kaaterskill Falls in New York’s Catskill Mountains makes a compelling case for heading East. Roughly a two-and-a-half-hour drive from New York City, the falls are one of the oldest outdoor tourist attractions in the U.S., gaining fame in 1819 as the site where Washington Irving’s fi ctional Rip Van Winkle awoke from his two-decade slumber. The tiered falls have two main cascades totaling a 260-foot drop, accessible via a half-mile hike up a series of deceptively steep rocks.
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(From left)
THE NORTH FACE Skagit water shoes with proprietary EXTS outsole traction system
THE NORTH FACE Flight Trail vest
DYNE Roemer shirt and Renzo track pants
COLUMBIA Montrail F.K.T. trail runner with Adaptive Terrain Response midsole
SACAI leopard blouson
3.1 PHILLIP LIM O� set track pant
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North Face, and Salomon has partnered with Boris
Bidjan Saberi and The Broken Arm.
“Fans are now avidly anticipating the
seasonal releases from these collaborations,”
said fashion program manager Jean-Philippe
Lalonde. “Working with such creatives has also
allowed us to explore beyond our traditional
design language.”
While fashion can be fi ckle, industry insiders
such as The NPD Group Inc. senior sports indus-
try analyst Matt Powell believe the union between
outdoor and streetwear is here to stay. “These
things do come and go, trends in streetwear, but
there’s still a lot of runway here,” Powell said. “If
brands pay close attenton to what the consumer is
asking for, they can extend this for some time.”
Ankur Amin, CEO of TGS (parent company
to retailers including Extra Butter), noted that
the outdoor market should also get a boost from
competing athletic brands.
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
level.”
One One global VP of product Gretchen Weimer.
“We’re not doing anything to make it more
appealing to streetwear; we’re making it for con-
sumers who want to use it in the outdoors, so it’s
being adopted because of the performance and
aesthetics of the product.”
That doesn’t mean brands aren’t expanding
their horizons through collaborations. Hoka has
gained attention in the past for teaming with Engi-
neered Garments and Outdoor Voices.
“It’s about fi nding partners who appreciate the
brand for what it is. We’ve been really selective,”
Weimer said. “If people are interested in the brand
because it’s the newest, shiniest thing, that’s not
what we’re interested in.”
Other brands playing with collaborations in-
clude Kith and Adidas Outdoor, Supreme and The
PH
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“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic “Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another
level.” level.” level.” level.” level.” level.”
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
level.”
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
level.”
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
level.”
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
level.”
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic
ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-
rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming
O� -White x Nike collab on the Air
Kiger will surely add another
Finding the TrailDid outdoor gear inspire the latest trends — or is the industry � nally warming up to fashion? For key footwear brands, it’s a symbiotic relationship. By Peter Verry
M E N ’ S F A S H I O N
Outdoor’s rugged aesthetics and performance tech
have permeated streetwear and fashion for de-
cades, but the latest seasons have arguably reached
an apex in the marriage of the two markets.
Back in March 2018, Balenciaga debuted its
Track Trainer, a trail running-inspired silhouette,
for fall ’18. Since then, other high-end brands have
followed suit in adopting outdoor aesthetics, most
notably Gucci, with a leather and mesh spring ’19
sandal that raised some eyebrows at Keen (see
page 33). The momentum has not waned during
the spring ’20 season showing in Europe now.
But the trend is not just a one-way street.
Lifestyle expert Jerome LaMaar, who hosted trend
forecast lectures at Outdoor Retailer for a decade,
said he witnessed a dramatic style shift among at-
tendees throughout his years attending the show.
“When I started doing outdoor market trend
forecasting for OR over 10 years ago, I was the only
person of color wearing Y-3 and edgy streetwear
with hybrids of outdoor. It was taboo; it was new
for them,” LaMaar said. “To come back in 2018 af-
ter three years of not being there, there was more
fashion design for women and even more fashion-
able colors for men. Now I think they understand
you need a fashion element.”
Although streetwear and fashion are still large-
ly focused on aesthetics, nowadays, it’s functional-
ity — not just looks — that is driving the moment.
“When you integrate elements that are
protective for surviving on a summit and you’re
wearing it to school or work or in the city, you
feel like you’re wearing something that has
quality without spending thousands of dollars,”
LaMaar explained. “[Brands] put so much e� ort
into the function to make sure it is sturdy and
strong, so you’re wearing an amazingly crafted
garment, and it becomes part of who you are.
You feel like you’re wearing luxury.”
Despite the desire for style and current trends,
core players in the outdoor space see no reason to
change their approach to product development.
“People want authentic brands and Hoka is
authentic and is being adopted as is,” said Hoka
Mostly Heard Rarely Seen convertible cargo pants
O� -White multi-pocket vest
Loewe bucket hat
Hoka Mid GTX boot
SALOMON Supercross runners with Contagrip outsole and EnergyCell
cushioning
STUTTERHEIM Stockholm rubberized striped raincoat
MICHAEL KORS neoprene cargo joggers
The Modern Mountain Man
THE OUTDOOR EQUATION
S T Y L EF N
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Gucci revealed via Instagram a photo of models wear-ing its new “sneaker-sandal hybrid design with Velcro straps and elastic laces” in March — a silhouette that fans quickly noted bore a striking resemblance to Keen’s popular Newport sport sandal. But instead of calling the legal team, Keen responded with humor, posting its own image of employees (and one employee’s dog) posing in its classic outdoor style.
At the time, Keen senior director of global marketing Ashley Williams said the brand was “honored to be associ-ated with such an iconic brand.”
Three months later, with time to refl ect on Gucci’s con-troversial post, Williams’ stance hasn’t changed.
“Always remaining true to who we are as a brand
meant our response to the Gucci post was met with overwhelmingly positive responses from our partners and fans,” Williams told FN. “We were fl attered that such a brand sought inspiration from Keen and that we’ll continue to lead and let others follow.”
However, the exec also said the incident confi rmed something Keen already knew.
“Outdoor infl uencing fashion shows no signs of slowing down, and we see this trend increasing as outdoor compa-nies continue to innovate the design, materialization and production of their product o� erings,” Wiliams said.
Several Newport styles from Keen are now available for men, women and kids, with prices ranging from $45 to $110. The Gucci leather and mesh sandal retails for $890. — P.V.
T H E S P O RTS M A N ’S PAT T E R N I S A P E R E N N I A L , BU T TO DAY ’S B EST V E RS I O N S G E T M O R E S P EC I F I C : N i ke h a s a n o n go i n g pa r t n e rs h i p w i t h Rea l t re e, t h e rea l i st i c ca m o u f l a ge co m pa ny w i t h a c u l t fo l l ow i n g . U n d e r A r m o u r d eve l o p e d i ts ow n p r i n t , s h ow n h e re o n i ts S p e e d Fre e k B oze m a n 2 .0 h u n t i n g b o o t .
A WORD ON CAMO
Keen employees (and Ridley the dog) wear-ing Newport Retros in an Instagram photo the brand posted in March, responding to Gucci’s debut of a similar style
Iceberg’s Vibram soles accented with a dipped rubber toe
Last year at Louis Vuitton, men’s
artistic director Virgil Abloh put
the brand through an “accessomor-
phosis,” a term he coined to ex-
plain his melding of ready-to-wear
with the functionality of bags and
pockets. It’s the perfect concept for
a company with a core heritage of
handbags — but the aesthetic also
aligns with the utility of outdoor
gear. The idea has since permeated
the rest of menswear, most recent-
ly at London Fashion Week Men’s
and Pitti Uomo earlier in June,
where there were anoraks aplenty,
hybrid hikers, trail runners, fanny
packs strapped to the chest,
fi shing vests, bucket hats and
even a return to the divisive cargo
pant. Here are some highlights. — Shannon Adducci
Take a Fashion Hike
VIBRAM GRIPSTHE RUNWAY The 103-year-old outsole company has found a new frontier in fashion as of late, working with brands such as Moncler, O� -White, Visvim, Ralph Lauren and Ermenegildo Zegna. Most recently, its iconic logo graced the bottoms of train-ers on the runway at Iceberg on June 8 during London Fashion Week Men’s.
Studio ALCH
Munn
Salvatore FerragamoFeng Chen Wang
Givenchy
33
HOW KEEN KEPT ITS SANDAL SCANDAL-FREE
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From Rooftops to Mountain Tops
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S H O E O F T H E W E E K 35 T H E I S S U E 36 G O O D TAS T E 38 F I V E Q S 39 S P R I N G T R E N D 40
Going green has never looked so good. For spring ’20, Adidas Outdoor updates its stylish, trail-ready Terrex Free Hiker with uppers made from Parley for the Oceans’ recycled plastic. The sustainable material is paired with Boost cushioning, providing comfort throughout the longest of treks.
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HOME RUN How this activist runner is using her platform to raise awareness for indigenous people causes. 38
MAN ABOUT TOWN Darn Tough Vermont CEO talks brand impact on the local community. 39
HOME RUN How this activist runner is using her platform to raise awareness for indigenous people causes.
community. 39
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L I S T T H E I S S U E
ing attention to sustainability in
the marketplace: According to the
market research giant Nielsen, 48%
of U.S. consumers said they would
definitely or probably change their
consumption habits if it meant
having a lower impact on the
environment. Sales of eco-friendly
products are also growing at around
four times the rate of conventional
goods, the same study found.
It pays, then, to communicate
about sustainability — so long as the
messages are authentic, according
to experts.
“We have been eco-minded for a
long time, but [have been] reluctant
to talk about it in our marketing,”
said Magnus Wedhammar, VP and
GM of Sanuk. “Our new approach is
to share what we are doing versus
being afraid of not being perfect.”
That involves striving to use
more vegan and recycled materials,
minimizing packaging waste with
biodegradable plastics and recycled
paper and pursuing partnerships
with organizations that are relevant
to its community of surfers and
yogis. The company is in its third
year of partnering with the Surfrider
Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated
to protecting oceans and beaches
around the world.
For Vivobarefoot, its rule of
thumb for environmental marketing
is to stick with the most straightfor-
ward ideas.
“In general, the simple, material-
orientated messages resonate more,
which we will do more
of going forward,” said
Asher Clark, Vivobare-
foot’s design director. “As
it stands, recycled plastic
is the most common
conversation-driver in the
shoe world, but natural
and now bio [‘made from
plants’] materials are
becoming more prevalent
and talked about by the
consumer.”
For spring ’19, the
company introduced a
collection of shoes made
from 40 to 50% plant-
based polymers, such as
A year and a half ago, OrthoLite
decided to examine the waste it
produced in its factories. The com-
pany makes insoles for more than
500 million pairs of shoes per year,
for brands like Adidas, Timberland
and Danner, and it wanted to find a
use for the excess first- and second-
layer foam and trimmings that
ended up on the production floor.
The company came up with what
it now calls “Hybrid,” an insole
formula that takes this scrap —
ground up at a recycling center the
company built in one of its factories
— and adds it to the existing liquid
mix, boosting the end product’s
recycled content from 5% to 20% at
no additional cost.
The reaction was immediate,
according to Dan Legor, OrthoLite’s
director of marketing.
“Brands were just like, ‘Ok, where
do we sign up?’ Because how often
do you get a new innovation without
it costing more money?”
The company has used recycled
material since it was founded
more than two decades ago, but
now, it said, brands across the
board are looking for ways to join
that conversation.
“Today, companies want to talk
about it, and they want consumers
to be aware, but they don’t want to
be boastful,” Legor said.
Shoppers are increasingly pay-
THEISSUE
Consumers say they want sustainability, but how can outdoor brands sell it? By Hilary George-Parkin
A GREENER PITCH
Vivobarefoot’s Primus Lite II Bio is made with
nearly 30 percent plant-based materials
algae and yellow field corn, and it
plans to integrate the materials even
further in the future. Its target, it
said, is to be 90% sustainable by
2020, and fully sustainable by 2021.
But how do brands actually know
where they stand?
Merrell uses the Higg Index, a
suite of sustainability assessment
tools that’s become increasingly pop-
ular throughout the global fashion
industry, for example. The brand is a
member of the Sustainable Apparel
Coalition, said Merrell chief market-
ing officer Strick Walker, and it uses
the index “to help guide our overall
strategy and product development
decision-making, including which
materials we use and how we’re
thinking about end of use solutions.
“Consumers expect brands to be
transparent and honest,” he said.
“We’re not perfect, but we’re work-
ing hard to be better.”
Despite the widespread discus-
sion around sustainability, there’s
some indication that consumer
interest is still more talk than ac-
tion: A recent survey of 2,000 U.S.
and U.K. consumers by e-commerce
personalization firm Nosto found
that while 52% said they want to see
more sustainable practices from the
fashion industry, less than a third
(29%) would be willing to pay more
for a sustainably-made version of
the same item.
Until this needle starts to shift,
then, it’s on brands to ensure their
eco-friendly products are as appeal-
ing to customers as they are good
for the environment.
Legor said this is a key part of
OrthoLite’s discussions with its part-
ners. “When you step into that shoe,
whether it has 5% recycled content
or 98%, the expectation is it delivers
on that comfort and performance
promise every time.”
“Our new approach is to share what we are doing versus being afraid of not being perfect.” — MAGNUS WEDHAMMAR, SANUK
Sanuk’s new Chiba Journey shoe uses Yulex natural rubber
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L I S T
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G O O D T A S T E
The runner is using races to create a tough, but necessary, conversation surrounding indigenous people.By Peter Verry
JORDAN DANIEL
Jordan Daniel organized a Dakota
Access Pipeline protest in 2016
A L L A B O U T A L G A EKeeping sustainability in mind, Bogs is looking for new ways to lessen its impact on the environment. At Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Denver, the brand will introduce several spring ’20 styles featuring its Bloom removable insoles made with algae. Included in the lineup is the women’s Kicker Loafer ($60), a slip-on look that also boasts Bogs’ water-resistant Neo-Tech stretch inner insulated bootie.
P E R F E C T F I TGarmont is making changes to the fi t of its spring ’20 footwear releases it believes will make North American consumers happy. The line of hiking boots and light hiking shoes is built on a new last shape made to provide a secure heel hold, added midfoot support and room for toes to move naturally. The line consists of the G-Trek lightweight boot ($200), G-Trail over the ankle hiker ($180), 9.81 N Air G light hiker mid ($180) and low ($160) and the non-waterproof Bolt light hiker ($140).
M A D E F O R Y O UTecnica is bringing its atypical thermo-molding system, made to make its footwear fi t like a second skin and match the uniqueness of the user’s feet, to mountain runners. For spring ’20, the brand will introduce the Origin, a high-performance look built to withstand all conditions, equipped with Vibram Megagrip out-soles. Prior to the spring debut, the shoe will soft launch at a handful of specialty outdoor retailers through-out the country in July. The Origin will retail for $170.
After running for the University
of Maine, Jordan Daniel found a
purpose for her sport greater than
competition. Today, she laces up her
New Balance shoes to raise aware-
ness for indigenous people causes,
specifi cally missing and murdered
women. A February report from the
Urban Indian Health Institute stated
there were 5,712 reports of missing
American Indian and Alaska Native
women and girls in 2016, but the U.S.
Department of Justice database only
logged 116 cases. The runner and
activist garnered national attention
during the 2019 Boston Marathon,
where she ran with a red handprint
painted over her mouth and said
a prayer at each of the 26 miles
for a di� erent woman. “I’m trying
to change the narrative of people
thinking we don’t exist anymore,
that we’re not important. We are
still here,” Daniel told FN. “My main
goal is to increase our visibility and
create platforms to have indigenous
voices to be centered and uplifted on
the issues.” Her e� orts have inspired
others to perform similar acts. Ro-
salie Fish, a high school senior from
Muckleshoot Tribal School in Wash-
ington, dedicated her track events to
four women. “I’m hoping this starts
a movement and more runners do
this, especially indigenous athletes,”
Daniel said. As for herself, she plans
to continue to use her platform to
bring awareness to the issue. Her
next race: The Mammoth Half Mara-
thon in California on June 23.
WHAT EMPOWERS ME WHEN RUNNING“Connecting with the land. It helps re-center me when I most need it.”
PEOPLE I LOOK UP TO“My grandfather, Nyal Brings. He’s Sičangu Lakota. And [Olympic gold medalist track and fi eld athlete] Billy Mills. He’s Oglala Lakota.”
NATIVE TRADITIONS I TAKE PART IN“Pow wows home in South Dakota or locally, and learn-ing the Lakota language.”
INDIGENOUS FASHION DESIGNERS I ADMIRE“Bethany Yellowtail, she incorporates indigenous people’s work and provides a place to uplift other indig-enous artists.”
BIGGEST ISSUE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE ARE FACING“We need to be seen, heard and acknowledged. It’s not happening as much as it needs to be.”
HOW SPORT AND FASHION CAN AMPLIFY ACTIVISM“It’s all about representa-tion and visibility.”
New Balance 880v9, one of Daniel’s go-to running shoes
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RIC CABOTDarn Tough Vermont’s president and CEO on the sock brand’s expansion and challenges ahead.By Peter Verry
01 What are the big initiatives for the back half of 2019 and early 2020?“Next month, we’re introducing the updated Light Hiker. Because we o� er an unconditional lifetime guarantee, we’re able to analyze returns and use that data for improvements. We own our mill in Northfi eld, Vermont, which allows us to rapidly prototype and make adjustments. For the new [style], we created 31 prototypes through the course of develop-ment. [And] in early 2020, we will launch our
new athletic line of socks with a collection called the Element that will showcase clean styling in four heights and three colors, while featuring the enhanced performance proper-ties of wool.”
02 How is Darn Tough addressing the issue of sustainability?“We place a high value on [it]. In support of our journey, we just hired our fi rst sustainability manager, Matt Jacobs. He will lead e� orts toward improving sustainable practices across all departments, working internally and externally with customers and suppliers toward future goals, and supporting the brand’s strong focus on community development.”
03 You also hired a chief technology o� cer and human resources director in May. Why werethose important additions?“These new senior positions were created to drive and sustain Darn Tough Vermont’s expansion well into the future. Jim Decker (CTO) was hired as a trusted strategist and technology visionary who brings over 25 years of experience leading technol-ogy systems and teams. John LeBourveau (HR director) will maintain and elevate a culture of purpose and high performance. He also brings over 25 years of experience overseeing human resources for premium, high-growth consumer products brands and social impact-minded companies. As we continue growing and expanding, we’ll be adding key positions throughout all levels and departments.”
04 How will the company’s expansion, which includes a new packaging and distribution building, impact the Northfi eld area?“It is the sock capital of the world. We don’t claim to own Northfi eld. Rather, it has shaped us, helped us rise over our years of growth and we cherish the opportunity to now be in a position to give back to our community. An output of the Vermont state-run Regional Economic Model highlights the e� ects of Darn Tough Vermont’s commitment on Northfi eld. For every employee we hire, we support an incremental 1.18 workers in the area. We are now in three facilities in the
town, which includes a multimillion-dollar renovation of the Nantanna Mill that now houses our fi nishing operation.”
05 Where are Darn Tough’s biggest opportunities and challenges?“We’re continually innovating to make a more comfortable, durable and better fi tting sock. While Darn Tough is best known for hike and lifestyle, we make socks in 10 di� erent categories. We will continue to expand in all, and will be doing so across brick-and-mortar as well as online, both domestically and internationally. [Challenge-wise], we are located in a state that has one of the lowest population growth rates in the nation. As we continue growing double digits while adding capacity to support that growth, we need a quality work force that we can recruit and retain over time.” Cabot expects online and global
expansion to fuel sales growth
Fall '19 women's (L) and men's Light Hiker socks
FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 4:16 PM
01 Smartwool’s PhD outdoor ultra-light style with Indestructawool technology // 02 Wool-blend outdoor quarter sock with cushioned footbed by Weatherproof 03 Wrightsock’s breathable Coolmesh II style for running or light hiking // 04 Wigwam’s unisex running sock with SynchroKnit technology for improved fi t
05 No-show style with AquaFX moisture control from Gold Toe Sport // 06 Vickory wool-blend quarter sock from the Stance Adventure series
Though they’re short on height, this season’s ankle-cut women’s performance
socks come packed with technical features to make the most of every run or hike.
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The Fox River hiking socks are made with PrimaLoft fi bers for
extra warmth
06
03
S P R I N G T R E N D
01
04
05
SPRINGTREND
01 Däv’s Prague boot with memory foam footbed //02 A two-tone platform style from Tretorn //03 Bernardo’s back-laced boot with matching heel 04 A leopard-print wedge style from Cougar //05 Pendleton Boots’ Navajo-inspired look //06 A classic plaid version by Western Chief
The Guide that cannot be missed.
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3434
VICTORY LAPAlex Morgan jumped into team
member Megan Rapinoe’s arms after scoring her fi fth goal for the
U.S. national team at the Women’s World Cup, wearing Nike Phantom
Venom Elite FG cleats (Rapinoe wore the brand’s Vapor 12 Elite FG style). The Nike-sponsored crew shut out
Thailand, 13-0, on June 11. Their win has since sparked controversy about
how athletes celebrate on the fi eld.
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FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2019 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 75, NO. 12. June 17, 2019. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published twice per month with one additional issue in September by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FN, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FN IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU-SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CON-SIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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baretraps.com | @baretrapsshoes
Untitled-8 1 6/5/19 3:36 PM
We exist to empowerthe human spirit, with every stride, on every run, and in every community.
For more than a century, Saucony has been running for
good performance, good health, and good communities.
Ever since, we’ve been loyal to the sport, building
goodness into every product and inviting millions
around the world to run with us.
Untitled-16 1 6/11/19 8:49 AM