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  • 8/6/2019 FT Working Africa 2009

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    Africa

    WORKING IN

    FINANCIAL TIMES SPECIAL REPORT | Thursday October 1 2009

    Better connectedINSIDE Technology has been a significant factor behind improved living conditions

    throughout the continent PLUS Behind the wire in Nigeria

    InsideAs globalisation reaches Africa,an environment friendly tobusiness and accommodatingto visitors has been built,saysWilliam

    Wallis

    Pages

    2 3

    www.ft.com working in africa 2009

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    2 FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    A struggle toreverse

    the brain drain

    As recently as 2001 a nd f or s ev er alyears before Abe-okuta was the only

    destination listed on theinternational departuresboard at Murtala MohamedAirport in Lagos, Nigeriascommercial capital.

    For those in the know,this added a certain frissonto time spent in the depar-tures lounge. There is nolanding strip in the town, soif you were to arrive by airit would be because yourplane had fallen from thesky shortly after take-off.

    Today the old panel hasb e e n r e p l a ce d w i t h o n eshowing a n expandingrange of international desti-nations. In 10 years therehas been a sweeping makeo-ver of what was one of theworlds most intimidatingand chaotic airports trav-ellers equipped to draw acomparison would have toagree that the experience isnow far less fraught.

    A s g lo ba li sa ti on h as

    w as he d u p o n A fr ic anshores, a veneer of welcom-ing mo dernity ha s beene s ta b li s he d a t a l l b u t ahandful of the continentsmain airports. Beyond them,in many African capitals,enough urban undergrowthhas been cleared to providean environment both friend-lier to business and moreaccommodating to visitors.

    Yet a decade of accelerat-i n g e c on o mi c g r ow t h stalled at the beginning oft h i s y e a r b y t h e g l o b aldownturn and the bubblein which expatriates andmore affluent Africans livehas expanded.

    You can zip o r grindthrough traffic from oneside of Nairobi, Dakar orAccra to another with 21stcentury communications atha nd: a Blackberry tha tkeeps you in touch withh e a d q u ar t e r s ; a m o b i l ephone that cuts throughdense thickets of bureauc-racy to reach decision-mak-ers direct and internet thatconnects, albeit with varia-ble efficiency.

    Thanks largely to SouthAfrica n a nd Asia n busi-nesses, you can also findshopping malls and super-markets with abundant sup-plies of consumer goods. Insome cities you can even go

    to the cinema. You are lesslikely tha n befo re to re-emerge and find tanks inthe streets and junior offic-ers hijacking the levers ofpo wer. There ha ve beenabout 90 successful coups inAfrica in 50 yea rs, o nlyseven in the past decade.

    Yet political instabilityand conflict remain some ofthe principal impedimentsto the development of sub-Saharan Africa and to theallure of working in manyof its individual states.

    In the 1990s, Ivory Coastand Zimbabwe were amongthe most attractive bases forbusinesses, their infrastruc-ture and services, alongsideJohannesburgs, the moste ff ic ie nt o n t he c on ti -n e n t . T o d a y A b i d j an i sstruggling to recover fromcivil war. Zimbabwes econ-o my has shrunk by two -thirds.

    Outside disaster zones,you can also collide withdarker realities of grindingpoverty, urban desolationand rampant crime lurkingbehind new faades of effi-ciency.

    Q ua li ty of l if e h asimproved in the upper eche-lons. But few African gov-ernments can claim yet tohave answered the chal-l en ge o f d em og ra ph ic

    But instability andconflict remainimpediments todevelopment, writes William Wallis

    ContributorsWilliam WallisAfrica Editor

    Tom BurgisWest AfricaCorrespondent

    Richard LapperSouthern AfricaCorrespondent

    Parselelo KantaiFT Contributor

    Stephanie GrayCommissioning Editor

    Steven BirdDesigner

    Andy MearsPicture Editor

    For advertisingdetails, contact:Rebecca Grist on:+44 207 873 4909;e mail:[email protected] your usualrepresentative

    In This Issue

    NigeriaSAFETY FIRST Tom Burgis looks atthe claustrophobia of life for theoil industrys expatriate workforcePage 4

    South AfricaEXALTED POSITION The World Bankranks the country highly and the legalsystem works, but power shortagesand crime muddy the waters, writesRichard Lapper Page 5

    KenyaCOMING HOME Once, experienceabroad guaranteed a good career.These days, returnees find they havepriced themselves out of the market,says Parselelo Kantai Page 6

    RwandaUPWARDLY

    MOBILE The

    countryhas zoomedup thebusinessrankings inthe past yearbut there arestill bigbottlenecks, says William WallisPage 7

    On the front page: Kenyans in downtownNairobi on their mobile phones AFP

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    FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    Waiting for arrivals:recruitment agencies arefinding a steady flow of

    business from the diaspora

    Alamy

    change, bulging youngerp op ulations , wid e s p r eadpoverty and unemployment.

    Reliable statistics thatcapture the resulting trendsin m igr ation and lab our

    markets are hard to find.B ut the b r oad p ictur e isfairly clear.

    Each year, tens of thou-sands of poorer Africansrisk precarious and illegal

    c r o ss i n gs t o E u r op e i nsearch of work. At the levelof skilled workers and pro-fessionals, the brain draincontinues apace. By somer e ce nt e s tim ate s , 2 0 ,0 0 0

    skilled Africans leave annu-ally, at huge cost to statesthat have invested in theirfuture.

    Conversely, as much as athird of development aid iss p ent on the s alar ie s ofexpatriates filling the gaps.In recent years there hasalso been a reverse trend.Economic liberalisation andincreased investment haveprovided new opportunitiesfor educated and experi-enced Africans.

    Recruitment agencies arefinding a s tead y flow ofbusiness from a diasporathat tapped into renewedop tim is m ab out A fr icasfuture as economies boomedb e t w ee n 2 0 0 0 a n d 2 0 0 8 .Rupert Adcock, managingdirector of the Global CareerCompany, says that over thepast decade he has receiveda 5 6 pe r c ent a nnu al

    increase in the number ofAfricans seeking jobs backh o me , a n d 4 6 p er c e nty ea rl y g ro wt h i n t henumber of companies want-ing to employ them.

    Where 10 years ago thesewere mostly multinationals,now a growing number ofAfrican companies are seek-

    i n g t o d r aw t h e s k i l le ddiaspora back.

    So, while state sectors,where salaries are low, con-tinue to haemorrhage doc-tors, nurses, technocratsand teachers, the privates e ctor is d r awing talentb ack. A s b ar r ier s b r e akdown within regional eco-n o mi c b l o c s t h e r e i s asteady growth in intra-re-gional job markets too.

    It is impossible to general-ise about the 48 countries insub-Saharan Africa. So an

    e-mail questionnaire sent tohundreds of contacts amongAfrican and expatriate pro-fessionals captured a pre-dictably diverse range of

    opinion on whether the frus-trations of working life inA f r i c a o u t w e i g h r e c e n tgains.

    The replies suggest thatskilled Africans returninghome often do so becausethey have reached a glassceiling in the companiesthey worked for in the west,

    and can go further and cotribute more in their coutries of origin.

    There was a consensthat technology, in particlar the advent of the mobphone, has been a signicant driver of change terms of quality of livinconne cting A frica to tworld and contribution i n c o me g r o w t h . O n t hb le aker s id e , we r e complaints many from Nigea n s a b o ut i n a de q uainfrastructure, electricicuts and corrupt, lethargbureaucrats.

    Most of all there was frutration at the venality g ov er nm ent and lack l e a d er s h i p. T h i n gs mhave improved on this frotoo, but relative to a lethan perfect past.

    The World Banks annur anking s on the e as e doing business around tworld gives an idea of homuch more could be donW ith a fe w e xcep tionsnotably Rwanda this yewhich leapt 76 places after

    big effort to spur investme African countries still fnearly all the bottom sloThe m os t e xciting thinabout working in Africa t he p ot en ti al , s ay s i n v es t m en t b a n ke r w htravels the continent. Tmost frustrating, are tobstacles to achieving it.

    Each year, tens ofthousands ofpoorer Africans riskprecariouscrossings to Europein search of work

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    4 FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    Isolation breeds insecurity

    At the GQ Club by thewaterfront on Lagos IkoyiIsland, the beer comes withpopcorn. Behind the bar,bedecked with miniaturestars and stripes, is a fadedphotograph of a US navyvessel. To get in, you haveto be an American , orfriends with one.

    The club is the focal pointof US expatriate l i fe inNigerias commercial capi-tal, a serene piece of homeaway from the uproar ofAfricas megacity. Yet evenas they enjoy the clubs

    comforts, the members areconscious of the claustro-phobia in which most west-erners in Nigeria live.

    Nowhere is that isolationmore acute than in thecountrys dominant indus-try: oil. The upsurge in vio-lence in the oil-producingNiger Delta this decade hasled energy groups to impose

    draconian security regimeson their personnel. Theunease is understandable,particularly in light of a

    booming kidnapping indus-try. Yakubu Lame, ministerof police affairs, said in Julythat 512 kidnappings havebeen reported in the firsthalf of this year, comparedwith 353 for the whole oflast year.

    We are very restricted,says Anh Tran, projectadviser at ExxonMobil, theUS oil group, amid prepara-tions at the GQ for a golftournament that wil lrequire an armed escort tothe course.

    We are not allowed toventure beyond VictoriaIsland and Ikoyi, the pairof well-to-do islands, sepa-rated by a stretch of waterfrom the mainland where

    most of Lagos 18m peoplelive in conditions that rangefrom habitable to atrocious.Thats our territory. If youwant to go beyond that, youneed an armed escort.

    Mr Tran has reasons to becautious. Two years ago hewas shot in a robbery thathis driver survived despitethe 18 bullets left in his

    body. A Vietnam-born UScitizen, at 45 Mr Tran hasworked on energy projectsin tricky places from Burma

    to Angola. Nigeria is themost difficult, he says.Angola is a piece of cakecompared to here. Equato-rial Guinea was even eas-ier.

    Apart from security con-straints, oil men complainof the logistical nightmaresof operating in a country

    where infrastructure is

    crumbling, graft widespreadand bureaucracy Byzantine.A rel iance on importsfunded by oil money hasmade Lagos a more expen-sive place to live as an expa-triate than San Francisco orLuxembourg, according to arecent survey by Mercer, aconsultancy.

    In a job that includes

    meetings with Nigerian oilofficials, Mr Tran at leasthas opportunities to interactwith the country in which

    he lives. His colleagues inthe delta have no such luck.Thousands of engineers, rigmanagers and their familiesbarely set foot outside thecompounds dotted amongthe deltas swamps. Theenclosures look like a crossbetween holiday camps andbarracks. One has an 18-holegolf course, others shoppingcomplexes and swimmingpools. In a region where mil-itant attacks on pipelinesand oil installations arecommonplace, all are tightlyguarded.

    Yet these arrangementsalso serve to perpetuate theinsecurity. At the core ofthe grievances that fuel thedeltas unrest is the failure

    of 50 years of oil productionto improve the lot of localswho lack even the mostbasic services. The presenceof well-equipped compoundsfor foreigners as well asthe antics of those permit-ted to make merry in thebars and brothels of PortHarcourt and Warri, thedeltas main oil cities

    hardly makes for goodwill.You can understand whythe locals get pissed off,says a British former oilengineer in the delta.

    For the dozens of expatri-ates at the shipyard of Her-cules Offshore, the oil serv-i ces company , who aredriven every day in convoythe 300 metres from thecompound to the yard and

    back again, l i fe can beintense.

    Some people get on edgebecause all they do iswork, says Mr McDonough.Drinking is a hobby its asport. You can work out butbesides that its drink andwork.

    They are also missing outon a country which, while it

    lacks the amenities of Johannesburg or Nairobi, isfree of the racial animosityprevalent in South Africaand Kenya, and which isbrimming with energy,invention and rhythms.

    Keith Richards, a Nigeriaveteran and aficionado ofthe countrys music, writesin a forthcoming book thatyou get out of the Nigerian

    experience what you areprepared to put in. Thatcan, in this environment,mean taking a few risks oraccepting some discomfort.

    Oilmen in Nigeria get asalary premium for theirpains. But while the deltaconflict continues to boil,many will have scant hopeof anything more rewarding.

    NIGERIA

    Tom Burgis on

    the impact ofa big kidnappingindustry

    The presence ofwell equippedcompounds forforeigners hardlymakes for goodwill

    More than 500 hostages have been taken this year

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    FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    Life with a contradictory character

    After working for sevenyears in the UK, TyronWhitley last year madethe move back home to

    South Africa with some trepida-tion. But 18 months on, his com-pany the South African CarImport Agency, which helps otherreturnees ship their vehicles backfrom migr destinations hasbeen a success and the 34 year oldnow feels pretty positive about hisnative land.

    When we first came back, wewondered what we were doing.Crime was a concern and initiallypower cuts meant that we foundourselves sitting in the house with

    candles studying how generatorsworked, he says. But doing busi-ness here has been a breeze.

    His experience illustrates thecontradictory character of SouthAfrica as a place to work. On theone hand, its legal system, bank-ing and financial facilities androad infrastructure comparefavourably with those of the devel-

    oped world. On the other, the sup-ply of electricity can be as erraticas it is in the countrys poorerAfrican neighbours. And the inci-dence of crime, especially violentcrime, is among the worst any-where.

    A glance at this years tablesmeasuring the ease of doing busi-ness and prepared by the Interna-tional Finance Corporation thebusiness arm of the World Bank highlights South Africas advan-tages. Of the 30 countries clus-tered at the bottom of a leaguetable of 183 nations, more thantwo-thirds are from Africa.

    By contrast, South Africa ranks34th, only three places behindFrance, well ahead of other Euro-pean countries such as Spain, Por-tugal and Italy and substantiallyahead of fashionably large emerg-ing markets such as Brazil, Rus-sia, China and India.

    Several factors explain the coun-trys exalted position. Investor

    protection regulations surround-ing the registration of a propertyare relatively straightforward. It iseasy to pay taxes and open a busi-ness.

    South Africans and foreignersalike can rely on courts to enforcecontracts and, if things go badlywrong, businesses can be closeddown without too much fuss.

    More broadly, business hasaccess to a sophisticated legal sys-tem based on a mixture of Anglo-Saxon and Roman Dutch law. RaviPillay, public affairs manager atNestl, the Swiss company thathas extensive operations in SouthAfrica, says, for example, thatwell-developed copyright, patentsand trademarks law all helpensure the companys intel-lectual property is pro-tected.

    These advantageshave been but-tressed of late bya sound bankingsystem that hasremained largelyunaffected by themeltdown in glo-bal financial mar-kets, and by con-sistent macro-eco-nomic manage-ment. True,earlier this year

    there were fearsthat, under Presi-dent Jacob Zuma,whose election

    campaign was backed by the left-wing trade union movement, thegovernment might intervene morefrequently. But, so far, PravinGordhan, the new finance minis-ter, and Gill Marcus, the incomingcentral bank chief, look set tostick with established policies.

    On top of that, investors like thefact that physical infrastructure isreasonably solid.

    Nevertheless, South Africa alsoprovides frequent reminders

    that it is still a developingcountry, and, in terms of

    average income levels,some way behind the

    other former Britishdominions with whichit is often compared,such as Australia

    and Canada. Thepoor quality of

    public edu-c a t i o nremainsa b ig

    problem,contrib-uting top r o -

    nouncedshortagesof techni-cal skills.Comply-

    ing with

    South Africas black economempowerment rules under whicompanies are effectively obligto cede a share of ownership anmanagement positions to tmajority black population calso be problematic.

    Energy is a potential worrPower cuts became a regular feture of life for several months the first part of last year, largebecause the state-owned utilitEskom, had failed to build enouggeneration capacity. Last but nleast, crime remains a significapreoccupation.

    Mr Zuma at least recognises textent of South Africas difficties in this area. In August, happointed Bheki Cele, a close assciate from KwaZulu Natal, to bSouth Africas police chief, fillina vacancy unaccountably left opfor 18 months by former PresideThabo Mbeki.

    Mr Mbekis decision had dolittle to help the fight against se

    ous crime but recent statistihave only served to underline tscale of the task faced by Mr CeAlthough the murder rate contiues to fall it has now nearhalved since the dark days of tlate 1990s in the 12 montbetween April 2008 and April 200robberies of businesses increasby an alarming 41.5 per cent.

    SOUTH AFRICA

    Richard Lapper looksat the contrast between

    elements of first and third worlds

    Zuma: he

    recognisesthe extent ofSouth Africas

    difficulties

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    6 FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    Political uncertainty unsettles returnees

    B y t h e t i m e M a i na M w a ng ireturned to Kenya from Nigeria in2007, he had already spent most ofhis adult life away from home. Aninvestment banker for the past 22years, Mr Mwangi, 45, has livedand worked everywhere in theworld, from London and NewY ork t o S ing ap ore and S out hAfrica. Everywhere, that is, buthome, apart from a brief stint inthe mid-1990s when he brokered aseries of IPOs in t he recentlyd er eg ul at ed N ai ro bi S to ckExchange.

    It was time, Mwangi explains.I have two kids. They were both

    b orn in S outh Africa and hadnever really lived at home. Hetook up a job with RenaissanceCapital, a Russian investmentb ack t hat was expanding intoAfrica. And then came the creditcrunch. The Russians retreated.M r M w a ng i m o v e d t o E q ui t yI nv es tm en t B an k, a n ew ly -launched branch of a vibrant, mid-sized local bank, Equity.

    Mr Mwangis return home, justbefore the rumble of the financialcrisis had become a storm, is notexactly typical. There is little reli-

    able data that suggests that Ken-yans, squeezed out of their jobsabroad, are returning in droves.Although remittances, a good indi-cation of diaspora numbers andec onomic ac t iv ity , were d ownalmost 10 per cent by July thisyear at $342.3m compared with2008, it was st ill a significantincrease on 2007 figures, says acentral bank report. Last year wasa record one for remittances. TheCBK attributes this to both themassive investor interest in theI P O o f S a fa r ic o m, t h e m o bi l ephone company and, somewhatcryptically, the post-election vio-lenc e, whic h at t rac t ed larg efunds for consumption smooth-ing.

    There are anywhere between 1mand 2m Kenyans living outside the

    country. In the euphoric aftermathof former President Daniel arapMois exit in 2002, many in thediaspora felt confident enougheither to resettle back in Kenya ort o b egin investing in p rojec tsother than the sustenance of closerelatives. Much of the real estateboom, for instance, was driven bydiaspora Kenyans. Apartments inthe posher parts of Nairobi rose

    like hosannas. Av erag e shareprices on the stock exchange tri-pled. Estate agents were doingbooming business, many actually

    setting up online transaction sys-tems to deal with demand.

    The optimism has since faded,reaching its nadir with the dis-puted 2007 presidential election

    that led to the deaths of 1,500 peo-ple and the displacement of hun-dreds of thousands of others. Thestock exchange bubble burst andleading real estate agents thesedays are lucky if they make ones al e i n a m on th . T h e r e ek o f retrenchment pervades the private

    sec tor. S o, b urd ened with t heeffects of economic meltdown inthe west, the desire for Kenyans inthe diaspora to return is compli-

    cated by political uncertainty athome.

    Furthermore, if events at homerather t han t he c redit c runc hab road , hav e d et ermined howKeny as b eleaguered d iasporabehaves, there are few assurancesthese days that a Kenyan profes-sional returning home, degree cer-tificates and work references bulg-ing in her hand luggage, will landkindly on her feet. Fierce competi-t i on f o r b o th s p ec i al i se d a n dadministrative jobs in virtuallyevery sector has forced the repatri-ate to take her place quietly in thequeue.

    It is very different from a gener-a ti on a go . S tu dy a nd w or kabroad for those coming of agein those heady years just afterindependence in 1963, the hal-

    lowed word referred to England orthe US, rather than India or say,Bulgaria almost certainly guar-anteed a scorching trail up thecareer path.

    Emma Lebo, an epidemiologist inher late 20s, returned from Sydney,Australia, last year with a special-ist masters degree in public health.After struggling to get a perma-nent job, she now finds herself

    working under a former classmate.The main ch allen g e is g etting back into the system, she says.

    With the recent proliferation of

    mostly private universities, Ken-yans are loading up on qualifica-tions. On a weeknight in down-t own Nairobi, t he st reet s arecrammed with students, young,old and in mid-career, dashing toand from school. Work experienceand night-school the paralleldegree programme has givenmany non-graduates a fightingchance against their repatriatecolleagues in the hectic race forcertificates and degrees. It has hadsome unexpected outcomes. MainaMwangi, who now heads a team of17 at the Equity Investment Bank,r e c en t l y f o u n d h i m s e lf i n arecruitment dilemma.

    Ive got a recruitment agencyscouring the earth for Kenyans.They cant find them. There arevery few Kenyans in investment

    banking abroad with the kind ofspecialist skills I am looking for.Whether you are talking aboutS out h Afric a, London or NewYork, most Kenyans in the indus-try do back-office work. So itsactually cheaper to hire locally.The motivation to come back isthat jobs are disappearing outthere. But back in Kenya, theyvebeen priced out of the market.

    KENYA

    Parselelo Kantai talks

    to a repatriate bankerabout employmentconditions back home

    The motivation to comeback is that jobs aredisappearing. But inKenya, they have beenpriced out of the market

    Maina Mwangi,

    Investment banker

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    FINANCIAL TIMES THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 2009

    Working in Africa

    Making iteasier todo business

    African countrieshabitually monopo-l is e t he b ot to mslots in the World

    Banks annual ease of doingbusiness rankings, whichprovides comparative meas-ures of business regulationsa nd the ir e nforce me nta cr os s 1 83 e co no mi esaround the globe.

    Until this year, Rwandawas no exception. It landedat 143 in 2008, an indicationthat starting up a business,registering property, payingtaxes and enforcing con-

    tracts could be prohibitivelyslow.

    The ranking was sharplyat odds with President PaulKagames mission. In the 15years since the genocide, hehas established his author-ity and secured Rwandasborders with ruthless single-mindedness. Mr Kagame hassince been trotting the globepersuading businessmenthat his government is seri-ous about promoting privatesector-led development as ameans of overcoming itstragic past.

    With generous infusionsof foreign aid, his govern-ment is attempting to trans-form a small, predominatelypeasant farming nation, intoa regional hub for financialservices, communications,tourism and transport.

    Mo st fo rei gn i nvesto rs

    who took the bait found therhetoric did not yet matchthe reality. According togovernment insiders, hun-dreds of millions of dollarsof potential investment havelanguished, blocked by regu-latory delays and the paceof decision-making. It hasb e en a c h a ll e ng e w eshould have learnt morefrom local investors beforegoing out there to promoteRwanda as an easy place todo business, admits oneofficial.

    But the experience hasalso galvanised technocratsinto action. Rwanda was theworlds top performer in the

    World Bank ratings thisyear, rising to 67th positionoverall, and fifth in Africa.It now takes a Rwandanentrepreneur just two proce-dure s a nd thre e da ys tostart business, the WorldBank reported last month.

    An eclectic range of busi-nesses are taking advan-tage. A Tanzanian Asian issetting up a steel rollingmill with plans to recycleabandoned hardware fromre gio na l wa rs i nto ste e lrods. Another entrepreneurhas set up a silk businesswith imported worms, andan army of farmers growingmulberry trees.

    Nigerian, South Africana n d K e n y a n b a n k s a r eentering the market, andthe US company, ContourGlobal, is ploughing tens ofmillions of dollars to har-n e s s m e t h a ne g a s c o m -pressed under the waters ofLake Kivu to boost electric-ity generation.

    T he di a spo ra ha s a l sobeen encouraged to invest.Some returnees are buildinghouses in Kigali, a city thathas been transformed sincethe dark days of 1994. Oth-ers are coming back to setup business.

    Pe o pl e l i ke o ursel ve swho had careers in the UShave returned because weknow the country is goingsomewhere. We came backbeca use we a re rea dy tom a k e a s a cr i f ic e , s a ysPatrick Kabagema, a gradu-ate from Lafayette Univer-sity in Pennsylvania whocashed in his US pension toset up an IT business, RockGlobal Consulting, in 2006.

    A series of reports by thecountrys private sector fed-eration are also helping togalvanise improvements.One of its reports found thatcomplying with regulationswa s co sti ng busine ss a tleast RwF55bn in 2007 equiv-alent to roughly 3 per centof gross domestic product.That may have been partlya dd res sed b y r ec en t

    reforms, captured in tWorld Banks rankings.

    Electricity shortages aa no th er o bs ta cl e a namong foreign investors,frequent concern is the laof skills among RwandanThis is partly addressed an influx of trained Keyans and Ugandans takia dv an ta ge o f r ec en trelaxed of work and redency regulations withthe East African Commnity and a proliferation young graduates from tUS and Britain working non-governmental organitions and ministries.

    Ambitious schemes fvocational training fRwandans themselves ataking longer to get off tground and have been stmied according to goverment insiders by officiawithin the ministry of edcation.

    Therein lies another taleo f t he c on ti nu in g g ube twe en Rwa nda s huambitions, and the capacit o s ee t he m t hr ou gAcco rdi ng to a ra nge business people, local aforeign, interviewed Kigali last month, there still a relatively thin layof determined technocraon message with Mr Kaame. Below them, old met al it ie s a re s lo we r change.

    RWANDA

    But reality has notmatched therhetoric, writes

    William Wallis

    Homecoming: returnees are building houses in Kigali Getty

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