full peacocks - sept 2010

Updated: September 2010

GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARDS INDEX

CARE LABELLING GUIDE

TRIAL ORDER OF 500 PIECES OR LESS P 1

WOVEN TROUSERS, SHORTS AND JACKETS P 2

SKIRTS, DRESSES & BLOUSES P 3

OUTERWEAR P 4

DENIM GARMENTS P 5

JERSEYWEAR FLEECE & LOOPBACK P 6

KNITWEAR P 7

SWIMWEAR, BEACHWEAR AND BEACH TOWELS P 8

NIGHTWEAR P 9

SUEDE & LEATHER GARMENTS P 10

LININGS WOVEN AND KNITTED (INCLUDING POCKETS) P 11

PVC, PU, SUEDE EFFECT COATED FABRIC GARMENTS P 12

FAKE FUR FABRICS & FABRIC TRIMS P 13

METAL/PLASTIC TRIMS AND FASTENERS AND BELTS P 14

SOCKS/HOSIERY P 15

LINGERIE P 16

PRE-WALKERS/ BOOTIES P 17

ADDITIONAL MANDATORY TESTING FOR BABY/TODDLER PRODUCTS UP TO 6 YEARS P 18

PLEASE NOTE FOR ALL SPECS

Test highlighted in Bold are MANDATORY TESTS


CARE LABELLING GUIDE

Commonly used symbols: Washing

Machine wash at 40 degrees

Machine wash at 40 degrees, mild treatment/ delicate

Machine wash at 40 degrees, very mild treatment/ very delicate

Hand Wash Only

Do not wash

Bleaching

Bleaching agent allowed.

Do not bleach/ no bleach

Drying

Item can be tumble dried, add 1 dot to the centre for low heat tumble dry and 2 dots for normal temperature.

Do not tumble dry.

Dry flat

Ironing

Item can be ironed. Dots in the middle of the iron indicate ironing temperature: 3 dots, up to 200 degrees celcius, 2 dots, up to 150 degrees celcius 1 dot up to 110 degrees celcius

Do not iron

Dry Cleaning

Professional dry clean, the letter inside the circle indicates the chemical to be used.

Do not dry clean

Please print care symbols on the label in the following order:


General Information which MUST be listed on the test report is as follows:

Garment description Order number/Reference number Name of factory, supplier& customer i.e. Peacocks Qty of pieces sent for testing Component type being tested if applicable including location of

testing i.e. inner waist button, pocket button etc. Number and Date of any British Standards tested to I.e. BS 7907:2007


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

Trial order of 500 pieces or less (unless otherwise specified)

P 1

Issue Date: April 2008 PHYSICALS

TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED Fibre Composition 96/73/EC as amended by

2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC Single Fibre No tolerance

Blends + / 3% against declaration

Garment Care Label Assessment Garments with Trims/Panels/Embellishments Complete garments with all components as production

In-house Method P 23 Satisfactory

Security of Attachment Trims (Childrens only) Min. of 5 to be tested per item i.e. 5 waist buttons, 5 inner waist buttons etc. MUST be tested on Production garments

BS 7907: 2007 Grippable - Pull Test

Non Grippable - Durawash

Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N Kids 6 15 yrs 70N

No removal of trims

STAINING Rubbing Dry Wet (on main body fabric)

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002 (Except White/Cream)

4 3


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS WOVEN TROUSERS, SHORTS AND JACKETS

P 2




Blends + / 3% against declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing. Care Label Wash & Iron to Recover

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/Width +/-3% Report results before and after Iron

Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry Cleaning (Dry Clean Only Garments)

Commercial Process

Length/Width +/-3%

Dimensional Stability to Wira Steam Test on a finished production garment.

BS 4323:1979 (1995)

Length/width +/-3%

Resistance to Abrasion Martindale (Trousers Only)

BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998 9kPa

20,000 cycles to end point

Shade change 4 at 5,000 rubs Accelerator Pile Loss (Fabrics with surface pile, i.e cord/velour)

AATCC 93:2005 15% max. weight loss Appearance loss negligible

Seam Slippage Seam Strength

BS EN ISO 13936-1-2004 BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999 Test on CUSTOMER SEAM

Fabric weight = or 150GSM 10kg min

warp and weft SO 6mm Strength 12KG

Tear Strength - Elmendorf 100% Cellulosics & Polyester/Cellulosic blends only

BS EN ISO 13937-1:2000 1000g min





No removal of trims Garment Durability Assessment Garments with Trims/Panels/Embellishments Complete garments with all components as production


COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR CHANGE

STAINING Colour Fastness to:

Washing

BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S

4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5) Dry Cleaning (Dry Clean Only Garments)

BS EN ISO 105 DO1:2010 4 3-4 (Contrasts 4-5)

Water BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996 (Except White/Cream)

4 3-4 (Contrast 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 Synthetics 3

Natural fibres 2-3 Light BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999 4 -

Panel Durability Embellishments E.g. Sequins, Appliques, Glitter, Plastercized Prints, AOP

In House Method P23 Satisfactory.


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS WOVEN DRESSES, BLOUSES & SHIRTS

P 3

Issue Date: November 2009 PHYSICALS




Dimensional Stability to Washing. Care Label Wash # Iron to Recover

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/Width +/-3% Report results before and after Iron


Commercial Process

Length/Width +/-3%


BS EN ISO 13936-1-2004 BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999 Test on CUSTOMER SEAM



Tear Strength - Elmendorf 100% Cellulosics & Polyester/Cellulosic blends only

BS EN ISO 13937-1:2000 700g min

Snagging Fabrics made from or containing filament yarns only

BS8479: 2008 2000 Revs

Grade 3-4







COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR CHANGE STAINING Colour Fastness to:

Washing


4 3-4




4 3-4 (Contrast 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3

Light BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999 4 - Panel Durability Embellishments E.g. Sequins, Appliques, Glitter, Plastercized Prints, AOP



FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS OUTERWEAR

P 4



2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC

Single Fibre No tolerance Blends + / 3% against declaration

Dimensional Stability to Washing. Care Label Wash # Iron to Recover

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/Width +/-3% Woven Length/Width +2 / -5% Knitted

Report results before and after Iron Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry Cleaning (Dry Clean Only Garments)

Commercial Process

Length/Width +/-3% Woven Length/Width +2 / -5% Knitted

Dimensional Stability to Wira Steam Test on a finished production garment.

BS 4323:1979 (1995)

Length/width +/-3%

Seam Slippage (Woven only) Seam Strength (Woven only)

BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004 BS EN ISO 13935:2 1999 Test on CUSTOMER SEAM

10kg. Minimum warp & weft SO 6mm Strength: 15kg min

Spray Test Shower Resistant garments only

BS EN 24920:1992 (1996) Grade 4 Before Cleansing Grade 3 After Cleansing

Fibre Percolation (Wadded garments only)

BS EN 12132-1:1999 Modified

Maximum 6 fibres after 6,000 cycles





No removal of trims

Resistance to Pilling Modified Martindale (Not Polar Fleece)

BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000 (After Cleanse) Knitted 500 revs

Grade 3-4

Garment Durability Assessment Garments with Trims/Panels/Embellishments Complete garments with all components as production



Washing

BS EN ISO 105 C06 A2S

4 3-4




4 3-4 (Contrasts 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3

Light BS EN ISO 105: B02:1999 4 -


In House Method P23 Satisfactory


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS DENIM GARMENTS

P 5





Dimensional Stability to washing Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/Width +/-3%

Resistance to Abrasion Martindale

BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998 15,000 rubs (Appearance change to be noted)

Shade change @ 5,000 rubs for cross-dyed & pigment dyed fabrics Grade 3


BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004 BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999 Test on CUSTOMER SEAM

Fabric weight =or 8.5oz 12kg min






No removal of trims




Washing


4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5)



Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3

2-3 (Dark Denim)




FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS JERSEY WEAR FLEECE & LOOPBACK

P 6





Dimensional Stability to washing Care Label Wash Iron to Recover

BS EN ISO 6330:2001 Flat Dry Tumble Dry

Ribs should not extend after washing Length/width +2 / -5%

Length/Width +3 / - 7% Report results before and after Iron

Polar Fleece Assessment In-house Method P 6 Grade 3 (max)

Spirality (Circular Knits Only)

In-House Method P2 Maximum 5%

Resistance to Pilling Modified Martindale (Not Polar Fleece)

BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000 (After Cleanse) Knitted 500 revs

Grade 3-4







COLOUR FASTNESS

COLOUR CHANGE STAINING Colour Fastness to:

Washing


4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5) Water BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996

(Except White/Cream) 4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5) Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3




FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS KNITWEAR

P 7




Blends + / 3% against declaration Dimensional Stability to washing Care Label Wash TEST ON GARMENT

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +3 / -5% No rib extension

Chenille Pile Loss (only for chenille)

In-house Method P 8 No visible apparent pile loss 5% max weight loss

Resistance to Pilling Modified Martindale

BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000 (After Cleanse)

Knitted 500 revs

Grade 3

Bursting Strength (Only test for Lace/Mesh fabrics)

BS EN ISO 13938:1999 175 kPa





No removal of trims




Washing

BS EN ISO 105 C06 A2S

4 3-4





-

-

4 3


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS SWIMWEAR, BEACHWEAR AND BEACH TOWELS

P 8




Blends + / - 3% against declaration

Dimensional Stability to washing Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +/-3% Woven Length/width +2 / -5% Knitted

Seam Slippage (Woven Only)

Seam Strength (Woven Only)

BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004

BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999 Test on CUSTOMER SEAM

5.5kg min warp & weft SO 3mm

Strength: 10kg min





No removal of trims




Washing


4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5)



Chlorinated Water BS EN ISO 105 :EO3:1997 Swimwear 50mg/l Beachwear 20 mg/l

3-4

-

Sea Water BS EN ISO 105 EO2:1996 4 3-4 (Contrasts 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3-4

Light BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999 5 fluorescents:3

-


In House Method P23 Satisfactory


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS NIGHTWEAR

P 9

NIGHTWEAR MUST CONFORM WITH NIGHT WEAR ( SAFETY) REGULATION 1985 AND EN 14878:2007 BURNING BEHAVIOUR OF CHILDRENS NIGHTWEAR




Blends + / 3% against declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing. Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Flat Dry

Tumble Dry

Length/width +/-3% Woven

Length/width + 3 / -5% Knitted

Length/width + 3 / -7% Knitted Spirality (Circular Knits Only)

In-House Method P 2 Maximum 5%

Bursting Strength (Lace Only) BS EN ISO 13938:1999 175 kPa min Seam Slippage (Woven Only) Seam Strength (Woven Only)




Formaldehyde Spot Test Free Formaldehyde (Tests on finished garments)

In-House Spot Method

BS EN 14184-1:1999

PASS

Childrens - 20ppm (max) Adult 30ppm (max)

Flammability

BS 5722:1984/ EN 14878:2007 as applicable

Pass








Washing


4 3-4





N/A 4 3-4




FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS SUEDE & LEATHER GARMENTS

P 10


TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED Dimensional Stability to Specialist Cleaning Siloxane (Green Earth) Perchloroethylene Aqueous Hydrocarbon

Appearance Assessment (Complete Garment)

Specialist Process in conjunction with UK Lab. only

Satisfactory


Water

BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996 (Except White/Cream)

4 3-4

(Contrasts 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3-4

Light BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999 4 -

N.B Submit a full garment for testing or 3 component pieces (Including all trims & linings)

FOR LINED PRODUCTS REFER TO SPEC P 11 FOR FURTHER TESTS


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS LININGS WOVEN & KNITTED

P 11




Blends + / 3% against declaration Dimensional Stability to washing Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001



Commercial Process


Dimensional Stability to Wira Steam (Dry Clean Only Garments)

BS 4323:1979 (1995)


Resistance to Abrasion Martindale (Woven Cellulosic Blends only)

BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998 5000 Rubs

Bursting Strength (Knitted Fabrics)

BS EN ISO 13938:1999 250 kPa

Seam Slippage (Woven Only) Seam Strength (Woven Only)





In-house Method P 23 (Linings to be included with main body of garment)

Satisfactory


STAINING Colour fastness to:

Washing

BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S 4 3-4 (Contrasts 4-5)

Dry Cleaning (Dry Clean Only Garments)




Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3-4

TESTS TO BE CARRIED OUT TO CARE INSTRUCTIONS AS PER OUTER FABRIC/END USE


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS PVC, PU, SUEDE EFFECT COATED FABRIC GARMENTS

P 12





NB. Quote backing & coating separately

Dimensional Stability to Washing Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +/-3%


Commercial process

Length/width +/-3%

Appearance Assessment after Steam (WIRA) (Dry Clean Only Garments)

In-house Method P 7

Satisfactory

Resistance to Abrasion TABER

ASTM D3884:2007 CS10 wheels 1000g load

100 rubs Wear Rating 4 Shade change 4

Surface effects only No breakdown or

removal of coating Seam Slippage Seam Strength


10kg minimum warp & weft SO 6mm Note nature of breakdown of coating

Flex Crumple BS 3424:1996 Part 9 Method C ISO 7854 : 1995

> 9000 cycles No coating failure






In-house Method P23 Satisfactory


STAINING Colour Fastness to:

Washing

BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S 4 3-4 (Contrasts 4-5)



Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3-4

Light BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999 4 -


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS FAKE FUR FABRICS AND FABRIC TRIMS

P 13





Dimensional Stability to Washing Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +/-3% Woven Length/width +2/-5% Knitted

Fibre Shedding In-House Method P28 Grade 3 - Moderate



COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR CHANGE STAINING Colour fastness to:

Washing

BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S 4 3-4





-

-

4 3-4

Light BS EN ISO 105 BO2:1999

4 -

Surface Flash (Required for fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm) (Childrens wear only)

BS 4569:1983 (1990) No Surface Flash


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS METAL/PLASTIC TRIMS AND FASTENERS AND BELTS

P 14

Issue Date: April 2008

TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED Zip Fasteners

BS 3084:2006 Compliance with physical performance (as appropriate)





No removal of trims

Nickel Swab Test (If comes in contact with the skin)

Nickel Release (if fails spot test)

PD CR 12471:2002

BS EN 1811/ BS EN 12472

PASS

Compliance

Phthalates (Plastic trims for childrens items up to 6 years)

EN14372 According to EU directive 2005-84-EC

MAX 0.1% by item mass

Toxicity EN 71 Part 3 (Coated Items) (Childrens Only)

EN 71 Part 3 Compliance

Rubbing Dry Wet (Dark colour belts with contact to light colour fabrics.)

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002 4 3-4


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS SOCKS & HOSIERY

P 15


TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED Fibre Composition

(Excluding Welt Elastane)

96/73/EC as amended by 2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC


Dimensional Stability to Washing 1 x Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

+3%/ -10% max Fit appropriate NAHM sock board

before & after wash

Sock Abrasion BS EN 13770:2002 Slight change on Heel and Sole at 10,000 cycles





No removal of trims

COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR CHANGE STAINING Colour fastness to:

Washing

BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S 4 3-4



(Contrasts 4-5)

Rubbing Dry Wet


-

-

4 3-4


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS LINGERIE

P 16


PHYSICALS TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED

Fibre Composition 96/73/EC as amended by 2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC


Dimensional Stability to Washing. Care Label Wash

BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +/-3% Woven Length/width + 2 / -5% Knitted

Spirality (Circular Knits Only)

In house method P2 Maximum 5%

Seam Slippage (Woven fabrics) Seam Strength (Woven fabrics)


8kg min warp & weft SO 6mm Strength=10kg min

Bursting Strength - Lace Only

BS EN ISO 13938-2:1999 175 kPa min

Stretch Properties (Fabrics containing 10% Elastane or less)

BS EN 14704:2005

Un-recoverable elongation after 30 minutes

Knitted 10% max Woven: 5% max

Formaldehyde Spot Test

Free Formaldehyde

In-House Spot Method

BS EN 14184-1:1999

PASS

30ppm (max) Analysis of contents Gel/ Liquid Pads

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis

No hazard to health on skin contact.

Bra Wire Punch Through SW/MG/GL 15KG




Washing


4 3-4





N/A 4 3-4

Phenolic Yellowing (White & pastel colours only)

BSEN150 105x18 Grade 4




FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS PRE-WALKERS/ BOOTIES

P 17


PHYSICALS TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED

Fibre Composition

96/73/EC as amended by 2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC


Machine washability Label Wash #

SATRA TM 158


FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS ADDITIONAL MANDATORY TESTING FOR CHILDRENSWEAR

P 18


TEST DESCRIPTION METHOD STANDARD REQUIRED Phthalates (Plastic/ PVC/ rubber trims and prints) All Baby/Toddler products up to 6 years

EN14372:2004

MAX 0.1% by item mass for DEHP/ DBP/ BBP/ DINP/

DIDP/ DNOP

Free Formaldehyde (Tests on finished garments)

BS EN 14184-1:1999 20ppm (max)


PEACOCKS IN-HOUSE TEST METHOD P2

December 2004 SPIRALITY

1) PURPOSE To determine the Spirality which occurs in a material resulting from laundering procedures.

2) PRINCIPLE A test Specimen is prepared in accordance with this method: Washed in an automatic washing machine and dried according to specified procedures as agreed.

3) APPARATUS a) Automatic Washing Machine b) Calibrated tape or ruler c) Conditioning/ Drying racks d) Automatic Tumble Drier e) Make-weight 100% Polyester f) Over-lock Sewing Machine g) Marking Template

4) CONDITIONING Condition the fabric in the standard atmosphere 20C +/- 2C, 65% RH +/- 4% RH, for a minimum of four (4) hours, before cutting and sewing the specimen or measuring the garment.

5) TEST SPECIMEN 5.1 Fabric:

a) Fold the fabric along a Wale line. Do not fold along SELVEDGE. b) Place the marking template on the fabric parallel to the wales and draw round. c) Cut out the double thickness specimen accurately along the knitted wale lines and

cut at right angles to these to produce a bag square. Note: The second cuts are not necessarily parallel to the knitted courses.

d) Sew the two pieces of fabric together to form an open-ended bag in the following order:- Sew together each side seam in turn. Sew together along one horizontal edge. Overlock the last horizontal edge singly in one continuous action to form the bag. Do NOT turn bag inside out.

5.2 Garment: a) Test the garment in its finished state. b) Record whether any spirality is present in the garment prior to washing. c) Measure original length and width dimensions. Note: It is recommended that garments that already exhibit Spirality are not tested

because deceptive results will be produced.

6) WASHING/ DRYING Carry out washing/ drying procedure as agreed or specified in BS EN ISO 6330:2001 Note: If the specimen is to be tumble-dried a load of 2 kg should be used for all specimens.

7) MEASUREMENT


a) After conditioning, lay the specimen on a flat smooth surface so that the natural fold in the washed specimen is flat and free from wrinkles.

b) Measure the distance D to the nearest 1 mm from the natural dried fold of the fabric square to the inner edge of the seam (see Fig 1.) Repeat on the other edge by gently lifting back the opposite edge to reveal the seam.

On garments these measurements are made at the bottom of hem.

c) Measure the length and width dimensions in order to determine the dimensional change.

8) ASSESSMENT

8.1 Determine the % Spirality for both sides by using the calculation below.

8.2 Calculate the % Spirality

i.e. D x 100 L

Where

L = Length of test specimen (fabric) ) or = Underarm to hem (garment) ) After washing

8.3 Determine the average of both sides and quote this figure as the overall % spirality.



December 2004 POLAR FLEECE ASSESSMENT

1) PURPOSE

To assess the resistance of a knitted polar fleece to pilling or change in surface appearance.

2) APPARATUS

a) Wascator Washing Machine b) Drying Racks c) Viewing cabinet from which external light is excluded d) Loading fabric

3) TEST METHOD

3.1 Wash the fabric/garment (in accordance with the Care Label Instructions ). Retain some original fabric for final comparison. Dry load made up to 2kg with make weights.

3.2 Dry flat on plastic mesh trays.

3.3 Condition the sample for a minimum of 16 hours at 65% +/- 4% relative humidity and at a temperature of 20C +/- 2C

4) SAMPLE DISPLAY AND GRADING

4.1 Mount the tested specimen with piece of the untested fabric.

4.2 Grade the sample in the viewing cabinet, rate the sample according to the following table of assessment:

Grade Description Method

5 No visual change 4 Slight surface fuzzing

3 Moderate surface change/matting or isolated pills 2 Significant surface change and/ or matting 1 Distinct surface change and/or matting

(Half grades may be given)

5) REPORT

5.1 The washing process

5.2 The average grade from two assessors to the nearest half grade.



December 2004 APPEARANCE ASSESSMENT COATED FABRICS AFTER WIRA STEAM

This test is based on BS 4323:1979 (1995).

No measurements are required.

Test Specimen should be graded and assessed to the following parameters:

RATING ASSESSMENT

1 Satisfactory No Visible change

2 Slight fogging, whitening of surface

3 Visible shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening

4 Severe shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening, plasticiser migration

5 Very marked shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening, marked plasticiser migration.



December 2004 ASSESSMENT OF CHENILLE PILE LOSS

1) PURPOSE:

To assess the potential pile loss from chenille fabrics & garments.

2) APPARATUS:

2.1 Wascator FOM 2.2 Tumble dryer 2.3 Balance accurate to two decimal places 2.4 Polyester Make-weights 2.5 ECE Reference detergent 2.6 Sodium Perborate 2.7 Drying Racks 2.8 Martindale abrasion machine conforming to BSEN150 12947-1 modified in accordance

with BSENISO 12945-2:2001 (EMPA method) total holder mass 15.5g.

4) CONDITIONING AND TESTING ATMOSPHERE

65% +/- 4% Relative Humidity: 20C +/- 2C

5) TEST PROCEDURE

5.1 Condition the garment for a minimum of 16 hours in the conditioned atmosphere 5.2 Weigh the garment and record as weight before wash (A) 5.3 Wash garment using BSENISO 6330:2001 5A @ 40C programme, 5kg load (see note i) 5.4 Flat dry 5.5 Condition for minimum of 16hours (see note ii) 5.6 Weigh garment and record as weight after flat dry (B) 5.7 Wet out garment and tumble dry for 90 minutes (hot) (see note iii) 5.8 Condition for minimum of 16 hours 5.9 Weigh garment and record as weight after tumble-drying 5.10 Observe the change in appearance of the fabric and record any changes and the appearance

of any pills formed.

Note: (i) Only one garment is washed and dried (ii) Garment must be completely dry before conditioning (iii) Periodically examine filters and remove fluff

5.11 Modify the cycling pattern of the Martindale machine by moving the drive posts to the alternate (EMPA) positions. Place 1mm thick natural rubber on the base plated, weight the rubber and clamp the rubbing medium in place.

5.12 Prepare two unwashed specimens and two washed specimens in accordance with clause 5.3 instructions and place the specimens in the modified holders (without the additional weight).


5.13 Set the modified Martindale to run for 125 cycles. Remove the specimen and observe/ record and formation of pills nothing particularly whether they are small (1-2mm) or large and frequency.

5.14 Repeat the cycling in steps by 375, 500 and a 1000 to give cycle assessments st 125, 500, 1000 and 2000 cycles observing and recording the size and number of pills formed.

NOTE: IF THE PILLS AT EACH STAGE ARE LARGE AND LOOSELY ATTACHED TO THE FABRIC SPECIMEN, REMOVE THE PILLS AND PLACE THEM IN A SEALED POLYTHENE BAG MARKED WITH THE SPECIMEN IDENTITY AND STATUS (WASHED/ UNWASHED)

5.15 Mount the specimens on cards together with any removed pills

5.16 Grade the degree of pilling on the final specimen (2000 cycles), under oblique lighting using the pilliscope, in accordance with BS EN ISO 12945-1



December 2004 GARMENT DURABILITY ASSESSMENT

Attach a strip of Multifibre to the garment. Place the Garment / Test specimen) into the wascator - with no added make-weights.

Select the appropriate programme and add IEC & Sodium Perborate in a pre-dissolved liquor to the washing machine, and run machine for 3 care label wash cycles. See BS EN ISO 6330:2001 for detergent amounts.

Dry according to the Care Label.

Compare to an un-laundered Garment and assess where relevant to the following parameters:

ASSESSMENT SATISFACTORY UNSATISFACTORY

A Colour change/ loss using Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 20105-A02:1995) 4 or better Less than 4

B

Cross staining ie, colour transfer onto component parts using Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 20105-A03:1995)

4-5 or better Less than 4-5

C Cross staining to multi fibre stripe using Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 20105-A03:1995)

3-4 or better Less than 3-4

D Fraying of fabrics and trims

Not Frayed Frayed

E Detachment of fastenings and trims

Not Detached Detached

F Spirality/ twisting of seam. Calculate spirality using IHTM002 5% or less More than 5%

G Grinning/ opening of seams. Measure seam opening 4mm or less More than 4mm

H Pilling or fuzzing of surface fibres. Assess degree of pilling/ fuzzing using BS EN ISO 12945-1:2001 grades.

4 or better Less than 4

I

Pile loss or flattening of pile - * Assess for Flattening and Pile Loss

* Assess colour change using Grey Scales.

No visible flattening or pile loss

4 or better

Significant evidence of flattening or pile loss

Less than 4

J Corrosion/ damage to trims (including chipping/ scratching of coatings) No Corrosion/ Damage

Some corrosion/ damage noted

K Delamination of fused components No delamination Some delamination noted.

L

Free running of zip fastening. Assess free running in both directions. Open and close open-ended zip fasteners.

Runs freely in both directions.

Does not run freely in both directions.

M Differential shrinkage of components/ parts. Assess for distorting, wrinkling or No permanent change (s)

observed Permanent changes

observed


twisting of components and/ or puckering of seams

N Unraveling/ breaks in stitching No unraveling/ breaks observed

Unraveling/ breaks observed

O Wadding has moved within casing(outer and lining) and/or migrated through casing

No movement or migration observed.

Movement/ Migration observed.

P Other changes observed No change observed Changes observed (quote).


PEACOCKS IN-HOUSE TEST METHOD

P28 December 2004

FIBRE SHEDDING

1) PURPOSE

1.1 This test is intended to provide to assess the amount of fibre removed under specific conditions of test.

2) PRINCIPAL

2.1 Applicable to fabric with pile longer than 3mm, whereby loose fibre is removed using pressure sensitive tape.

3) APPARATUS

3.1 Pressure sensitive tape, Ref 3M.853.25mm wide (See note 1)

3.2 Balance accurate to 0.1g

3.3 1kg weight.

4) TEST SAMPLES

4.1 Three specimens, 80mm x 130mm with the longer length parallel to the lay of the pile.

5) TEST PROCEDURE

5.1 Condition the specimens for a minimum of four hours - 65% +/- 4% Relative Humidity: 20C +/- 2C

5.2 Cut out three specimens and carefully remove loose fibre/ tufts from the cut edges.

5.3 Cut a 150mm strip of pressure sensitive tape and weigh it to two decimal places and record this as A.

5.4 Apply the tape to the pile surface centrally along the specimen and leave for 1 minute under a load of 1.0kg.

5.5 After one minute remove the weight and pull the tape off against the lay of the pile

5.6 Weigh the tape plus fibre and record as B.

5.7 Calculate the weight of fibre removed as B-A.

5.8 Calculate the % of fibre lost.


5.9 Mount the tape onto white or black card according to the colour of the pile and assess the amount of fibre stuck to the tape. (For dark coloured fabrics, use white card and vice-versa).

6) REPORT

6.1 The percentage (%) of fibre removed

6.2 The level of fibre shedding:

None - Grade 5 Slight - Grade 4 Moderate - Grade 3 Severe - Grade 2

Note 1

Pressure Sensitive tape is available from:

BDK Industrial Products Levington Park Bridge Road Levington Suffolk IP10 OJE

Tel: 0143 765 9059 Fax: 0143 765 9104

full peacocks - sept 2010

Documents

jackets p

years p

lingerie p

nightwear p

outerwear p

knitwear p

belts p

sockshosiery p