FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIR CUTTING

PRINICPLESWhat is the definition of a principle?

A PRINCIPLE is a fundamental law or assumption about how something works.Ex: Rules to a game

There are 6 principles in hair cutting:

• Perspective• Dimension• Distribution of Weight• Elevation • Over-Direction• Body Position

Lets explore each one in depth

1. PERSPECTIVE

Perspective is a technique of drawing a representation of something on a flat surface, so that it appears to have depth and distance.

There are 2 perspective:• Vertical • Horizontal

VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL PERSPECTIVE

VERTICAL: • Consists of the profile, facial features, front,

sides and back of the head. • Used to check for balance and symmetry and

how high to lift the hair

HORIZONTAL: • Aerial view: shows the shape of the hair cut

when all the hair is lifted straight out from the head.

• Referred to as a “bird’s eye view”

2. DIMENSION

Refers to the properties of an object in terms of • Height• Width• Depth

Looking at an object with both vertical and horizontal perspective.

Vertical perspective = height = elevation

Horizontal perspective = width = over-direction

Depth = Length of hair• Can be short, medium and long

3. DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT

Weight can be distributed upward or downward depending on your elevation.

Weight can also be distributed forward or backward depending on over-direction

Characteristics of hair such as (i) texture and (ii) density of the hair could also effect the distribution of weight.

4. ELEVATION

Elevation is the lifting of hair from its natural fall or position on the head.

Elevation = Distribution of weight upward or downward = Technique

There are 3 techniques: • One Length• Graduation • Layers

One Length

This technique uses • 0 degree or minimal elevation • keeps maximum weight at the bottom of the

hair (perimeter).• All lengths finish at the same plane

Graduation

This technique uses • 1°- 89° of elevation• builds weight• Hair is longer toward the top with shorter

pieces at the bottom.

Layers

This technique uses • 90° and above elevation• removes weight with shorter pieces at the

top and longer at the bottom

5. OVER-DIRECTION

Over-direction• the moving of the hair from its natural fall • distributing weight side to side as well as

forward and backward.• Shape is viewed from a birds eye view.

Over-direction = Distributing Weight Froward or Backward or Evenly = Shape

There are 3 shapes: Round, Triangular and Square

Distance = Length

Round

• This shape is shorter in the front and longer in the back.

• Weight is distributed backward

• Over-directing the hair forward from its natural position.

• Hair cut begins at the front of the head

Triangle

• This shape is longer in the front and shorter in the back

• Weight is distributed forward

• Over-directing the hair backward from its natural position

• Hair cut begins at the back

Square

• This shape appears to have even lengths on all sides

• Weight is distributed evenly

• Over-directing the hair both forward and backward from its natural position.

• Hair cut begins at the flatter parts of the head (sides, back or top)

6. BODY POSITIONUpper body • Arm and hands• Elevation which controls technique

Elevation = Technique = Upper Body Position

Lower body• Where and how you stand as well as move

around the guest. • Controlled by your feet.

Over-direction = Shape = Lower body position

Upper Body Positions

Finger angle: This should mirror your sub-section angle

Cutting Below the Finger: Used for control when cutting a one length below the shoulder. Low elevation

Cutting Over the Fingers: Used for greater control when elevating hair in the upper portion of the head.

Palm to Palm: For control when working on the lower half of the head. Used with graduation , layering and shorter lengths

Tension: Amount of pressure used when holding or stretching the hair.

Lower Body PositionFirst Position• Straight with your feet hip width apart• knees should be slightly bent and your weight

centered. • Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears. • Stand with the section you are working on in front of

you

The Lunge Position• Lower your body while keeping your back straight• Lower your perspective to observe the cutting line• Used with one length above the shoulder• Non dominant leg in front with a slight bend at the

knee; dominant leg thrust backward with foot turned out slightly

• Weight is distributed evenly between both legs

Crossover One: • Stand on a diagonal with feet slightly wider than

shoulder width apart • Your upper body will be straight • Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears• Best position to cut will be to shift your weight to your

non-dominant leg bending your knee.

Crossover Two: • Shift your non dominate leg across your body so

that it is in front of your dominate leg • Stand on a diagonal• Adjust the foot on your dominant leg so that you are

balanced, and your weight is distributed evenly

The Step:• Maintain consistency on either side of the head • This position is primarily used with longer lengths • One foot remains stationary while the other steps out

How the PRINCIPLES all related

Vertical Perspective =

Technique=

Height =

Distribution of Weight Upward or Downward =

Elevation=

Upper Body Position

How the PRINCIPLES all related

Horizontal Perspective =

Shape=

Width=

Distribution of Weight Forward or Backward =

Over-direction=

Lower Body Position