FUSINGBy:

Ashutosh KumarAshutosh vatsa

Kr. Pramendra SinhaS.k. Pegu

What is Fusing?

It is a process of attaching an interlining, especially to the part of a garment that requires stiffness.Some of the application area of Fusing in a garment are placket, collar, cuff, waistband, men's jacket forefront, etc.

Requirements for Fusing

Base Cloth

Resins

Coating System Interlining

Base Clothes (Substrate)

It is an interlining material onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed.Properties of Garment influenced:• Handle and Bulk• Shape Retention• Shrinkage Control• Crease – Recovery• Appearance• Durability

Non-woven

Knitted

Woven

Types:

Types of Interlining

Woven

• ••Produced from animal hair, viscose, cotton, polyester or acrylic fiber.

• ••Maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention.

• ••Varying properties in warp and weft direction.

Knitted

• ••Produced from Polyester, polyamide, acrylic and viscose fiber.

• ••Elasticity to the fused Components.

• ••Soft and lofty handle.

Non-woven

• ••Originated from paper industry.

• ••Mixture of fiber held together at bond sites.

• ••Factors affecting end performance: fiber, web formation, bonding.

Woven Interlining

Knitted Interlining

Non-Woven Interlining

Non woven Interlining

• Extensively used in Industry.• Properties could be modified as per end uses.• Fibers: mostly Synthetic fiber like viscose, nylon,

polyester or acrylic is used.• Web Formation: orientation of fiber in substrate

Dry laid web formation Wet laid web formation Spun bonded webs

• Bonding: locking of fiber together. Mechanical bonding Chemical bonding

Resins

The material applied to base cloth and when subjected to heat and pressure, they become the sole bonding agent between Top cloth and Interlining.Thermoplasticity, change with heat, is the basis of fusible interlinings.In cold state, it is not adhesive, when subjected to heat and pressure, melts and creates a bond.

Factors affecting suitability of Resins:

• Upper limit temperature generally not more than 1750c, should not damage top cloth

• Lower limit temperature generally not less than 1100c, to ensure adequacy of bonding

• Cleanability To withstand the washing and cleaning throughout life of garment

• Thermoplasticity Change in heat and pressure is sufficient enough to form a bond with

top cloth

• Handle Should contribute to desire handle of final laminate

• Safety Harmless in processing and end-use

Types of Resins

• Polyethylene : used for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-cleanable.

• Polyamide : Dry-cleanable.• Polyester : Cheaper, wide range of fusing

temperature (650-1200C).• PVC : used for siliconized rainwear fabric,

requires softening with plasticizers.• Resin Blends : used for specific purposes, blend

of above mentioned maerial.

Distribution of Resin

Inadequate bonding(incorrect)Strike through and strike Back(incorrect)Correct bonding with good Penetration of Adhesive(correct)

Components of Fusing

• ••Resin melt Temp. is 1300-1600C, applied Temp. should be in the range of ±50C

• ••Too high Temp. could cause strike through or strike back

Temperature

• ••Use of electro-mechanical timing devices to measure time

• ••Time applied depends upon type and nature of resin, substrate, top cloth and fusing equipments.

Time • ••Reduces the latent temperature to 300C

• ••Use of water cooled plates, air-circulation, vacuum.

Cooling• ••Used

to establish an intimate contact between to-cloth and fusible.

• ••Applied via platens, bucks or nip rollers.

Pressure

Single Fusing• ••Fusible positioned on the top of the Cloth

Reverse Fusing• ••Cloth is Positioned on the top of Fusible

Sandwich Fusing• ••Fusing 2 components in 1 operation• ••Cloth on the outside, 2 fusible in the middle

Double Fusing• ••Fusing 2 fusible positioned one on the top of other, to the top cloth in 1 operation

Top Fusing• ••Fusible components are positioned on the top of the cloth and heat I applied directly to the top cloth

Fusing Methods

Coating System

The process in which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured onto the substrate material.It involves the application of carefully selected Particle size fraction of Particular resin being used.

Coating Methods:

• Scatter coating:o largest particle size 150 to 400 micronso Specifically designed scattering heads provides

scatter under automatic controlo Resin is softened in an oveno Pressed on base cloth and cooledo Cheapest methodo Product is not uniform and flexible

Coating Methods (Contd):

• Dry dot printed coating:o Powdered resin fills engraved holes on the rollero Base cloth passed over heated rollero Then against engraved rollerso The powdered resin adheres to cloth in from of dotso Followed by oven heating for permanent adhesiono Temp and pressure of rollers depends on resin typeso Pattern : 3 – 12 dots /cmo Light weight fabric - small dot – high concentrationo Heavy weight fabric – large dot – small concentration

Coating Methods (Contd):

• Paste coating:o Resin powder blended with water or other agents to

form smooth paste o Printed on base clotho Heat removes water o Gives precisely shaped dots ANUSHAo Gives fine dotso Used in shirt colour fusible

• Performed system• Extrusion laminating• Emulsion laminating

Defects in fusing Process:

Fusing Equipments

Flat Bed PressContinuous

Fusing Machine

Hand Iron Steam Press

High Frequency Fusing

Flat Bed Press

• Padded top and Bottom bucks• Heating Element in 1 or both bucks• Bottom Buck Static, Top buck can be moved

vertically• Option of Single tray and Twin tray systems• Low Productivity• The three processes are Loading, Fusing and

Cooling.

Flat Bed Press

Continuous Fusing Press

• Use of Conveyor Belt as a mean of transport• Synchronized belt speed• Heating plates, cylinder, rollers, and heating

zones are used• Rubber covered steel rollers to apply pressure• Air cooling and water cooling systems• Take off could be done manually or mechanically

Continuous Fusing Press

High Frequency Fusing

• Multiple plies are stacked up (up to 70 mm height) and fused simultaneously

• High Productivity• Heat from high frequency energy• No shrinkage or color change • Dielectric heat: plates generate high frequency

field, heat effect is distributed uniformly in length ,width and full height between platen

High Frequency Fusing

• Heating effect is different for different polymers• Adhesive is heated up faster than fabric or

interlining• Time depend on capacity of High Frequency

unit and weight of load to be fusedo E.g.; 30 Kw unit ; load 5-20 kg :– 1-3 min

• Disadvantage: the press needs to be set for fusing materials on basis of fibre, content, weight thickness and moisture content

High Frequency Fusing

Manufacturers:

• Shanghai Dahe New Material Technology Co., Ltd

• Rocmachine Co., Ltd.•  Tianjin Tian-Yin Machinery And Electron Co.,

Ltd.

Quality Control

• Temperature Test papers : reacts by changing color.

• Pyrometers : high accuracy, rapid response, costly.

• Stop watch: High accuracy.• Peel strength Test• Dry-clean and wash Test.

Control System

Thank you

• Bibliography:o Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklino www.fusingpressindia.como machinery.fibre2fashion.com/7/fusing-machineo www.apparelntextile.com/

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