glen affric guide

2
For information on what’s available from Forestry Commission Scotland in the rest of the West Highlands and surrounding area please contact 2 3 Forestry Commission Scotland Inverness, Ross & Skye Forest District, Tower Road, Smithton, Inverness, IV2 7NL Tel: 01463 791575 E-mail: invernessross&[email protected] Web: www.forestry.gov.uk/scotland Public enquiry line 0845 FORESTS (367 3787) Forestry Commission Scotland, Lochaber Forest District Tel: 01397 702184 [email protected] Forestry Commission Scotland, North Highland Forest District Tel: 01408 634063 [email protected] Contact 1 For information on public transport services contact: Traveline Scotland, 0871 2002233 or www.travelinescotland.com © Crown Copyright 2009 Designed by: Design & Interpretative Services, Forestry Commission Scotland. D&IS-5K-JTCP-09.09 Photography by: Forestry Commission Picture Library, Allan Pollok-Morris & Neil McIntyre. Text written by: Michael Hamish Glen, QuiteWrite. The Forest walks of Glen Affric National Nature Reserve Explore Enjoy and Discover Stand on the rock, which resembles a whale’s back, as the peaty waters surge into the loch. Watch for dippers searching for larvae below the foaming waters. Make sure you’re wearing proper footwear as the river in spate can rage past before settling into deep dark eddies. When the wind changes direction, you may see a heron, with his unmistakable lazy wingbeat, heading for quieter fishing grounds. In winter, whooper swans hold icy vigils on the lochs. The car park half way down Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin is good for picnicking and wildlife watching. Or walk down the road a little and up the path alongside the ‘burn of the flitting’, Allt na h-Imrich. It’s quite steep but you get memorable views from the moorland. 180m 160m 120m 120m 140m 180m 220m 260m 240m 200m 140m 140m 160m 200m 240m 260m 280m 300m 320m 340m 360m 320m 220m 180m P 25 24 23 25 24 23 29 29 Torna M uic W ester Knockfin Ford Ford Plodda Falls AffricForest Coille M hor Torra' Ghobail Abhainn Deabhag Ford Plodda Cottage Hilton Cottage Hilton Lodge Guisachan House Plodda Lodge A l l tna Bo d a c h a n To Cougie 5km/3.1miles To Tomich 10km/6.2miles 0 1/2 1/4 0 1/2mile 1km © Crown copyright. All rightsreserved ForestryCom m ission. Licence No. 100025498 Published 2008. The first tumbling torrents you come to are just a magnificent taster for what’s to come! Take care on the rising path as you pass the rocks covered in mosses and ferns. In this mix of native woodland, Victorian planting and commercial forest, look out for cross-bills and crested tits high in the branches and secretive roe deer among the trees. The glory of the Plodda Falls will amaze you as the burn cascades vertically with an awesome roar. And all around are soaring trees including three great firs planted by Lord Gladstone in the 1880s. Lord Tweedmouth bought Glen Affric estate from Clan Chisholm in the mid- 1800s and built Guisachan House among the trees and cottages for his workers. The house (Giùsachean – say gi-oosuchun – is gaelic for pine forests) has gone, but you can still see the magnificent larch, which are a legacy for us all to enjoy today. Much of the estate was used for shooting, but Lord Tweedmouth planted many exotic trees including towering redwoods and majestic Douglas firs, three of which replaced the original masts on Captain Scott‘s RRS Discovery, now berthed in Dundee. 4. River Affric 1.6 km / 1 mile. Allow 50 mins Take care on the rocky sections alongside the river, which can be slippery when wet 5. Plodda Falls 0.6 km / 0.4 mile. Allow 15 mins 6. Tweedmouth Walk 1.6 km / 1 mile. Allow 30 mins glen affric fàilte do’n gleann afaraig welcome to You will tread in the steps of folk who have lived here over aeons, who have harvested the woodlands, herded cattle and sheep, fished the waters and made their own whisky. You will see where plantings of spruce have given way to native Scots pine and where the pent-up power of the lochs lights the lives of far-off people. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie hid after Culloden, where Clan Chisholm ruled until the land was given over to stalking and shooting, and where the wild red deer roam and watch over today’s visitors. Even a fleeting visit to Glen Affric will leave an indelible memory of inviting pinewoods, shimmering lochs, enchanting islands and tumbling burns. Stay longer, let the glen feed your soul, and your cares will fly off with the eagles. Climb up the path above Dog Falls car park and drink in the view. In the distance are the great ‘Munros’ of Tom a’ Chòinich - (hill of the moss, say tome-a- honich) and Toll Creagach - (rocky hole) - which you can reach from the car park at Chisholm Bridge. Look over the islands of Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin - (middle hill – say ben-a-vey-un) - and up into the pinewoods. Grazing animals have been well managed to allow young trees to grow. Below you, hardly noticeable, is the dam holding back the waters that feed Fasnakyle power station. Along the meandering trail, cheeky chaffinches will take food from your hand below the rowans and granny pines hanging with old man’s beard. Feel the awesome power of the whisky-coloured river pouring over the falls; watch for a silent otter slipping into a dark pool searching for eels and brown trout greedily waiting for passing insects. Fungi like penny buns and fly agarics appear magically overnight in the damp woodland. Climb past ancient Scots pine and birch, which shield a carpet of seedlings, and along the steep trail lined with blaeberries and mossy boulders. Look out over the crowns of the great pines and the hills in the distance and get a first glimpse of Coire Loch. Little grebes fish in summer among the water lilies and dragonflies hover above the boggy margins. Follow the trail as it sweeps through the heather and look for butterworts and insect-eating sundews. 1. Viewpoint Walk 1.6 km / 1 mile. Allow 50 mins A steady climb from the bridge up to the viewpoibt 3.2 km / 2 miles. Allow 1 hour The Path surface is made up of natural features and can be muddy at certain times of the year 5.2 km / 3.25 mile. Allow 1.5 hours Natural path surface, steep in places 2. Dog Falls 3. Coire Loch ‘It’s easy to get passionate in describing what you see when you love the glen so much.’ Take care of your pinewoods! When you camp; gas stoves are better, quicker and safer than fires. If you must light a fire, make sure it’s properly sited; put it out when you leave. If you’re walking in the hills, take a map, compass, protective clothing and food. There is no mobile phone reception in the glen. The weather can change very quickly; always carry warm, wet-weather gear and wear strong footwear even on low-level walks. ’These Douglas firs are real cathedral trees that inspire and captivate everyone who walks beneath them.’ Easy Sensible footwear Moderate Waterproof footwear Strenuous Hillwalking boots Easy Muscle Loosener Moderate Muscle Stretcher Strenuous Muscle Builder Trail Grades Forestry Commission Scotland trails and walks are graded according to the degree of difficulty, gradients and type of conditions visitors can expect. ‘Autumn in Glen Affric is breathtaking with its golds and greens and blues.’ ‘The woods are alive with pine martens and red squirrels – you might get a glimpse of one!’ River Affric Plodda Falls Tweedmouth Walk View towards Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin Dogs Falls View looking down to Coire Loch If you need this publication in an alternative format, for example, in large print or in another language, please contact: The Diversity Team Tel: 0131 314 6575 E-mail: [email protected] A short loop situated on a gentle hillside A long decent down to the river 0.5 km / 0.3 mile. Allow 20 mins A gradual climb on a short loop 200m 200m 220m 240m 260m 280m 300m 320m 220m 240m 260m 280m 300m 320m 340m 360m 400m 380m 340m 280m 240m 260m 300m 320m 360m 380m Riv er Affr ic Dog Falls Ford Coire Loch ToCannich: 7k m/4.4miles ToRiver Affr ic W alk: 10.8km/6.7miles © Cr own cop yrigh t. A ll righ ts reser ved For estry C ommission. Lic ence N o. 100025498 Published 2 008. 0 1/2 1/4 0 1/2mile 1km P 28 28 29 28 28 Map of walks 1,2 and 3

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Glen Affric Guide

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Page 1: Glen Affric Guide

For

information

on what’s

available

from Forestry

Commission

Scotland in

the rest of

the West

Highlands

and

surrounding

area

please

contact

2

3

Forestry Commission ScotlandInverness, Ross & Skye Forest District, Tower Road, Smithton, Inverness, IV2 7NL Tel: 01463 791575E-mail: invernessross&[email protected]: www.forestry.gov.uk/scotland

Public enquiry line 0845 FORESTS (367 3787)

Forestry Commission Scotland, Lochaber Forest DistrictTel: 01397 702184 [email protected]

Forestry Commission Scotland, North Highland Forest DistrictTel: 01408 [email protected]

Contact 1

For information on public transport services contact:Traveline Scotland, 0871 2002233 orwww.travelinescotland.com

© Crown Copyright 2009

Des

igne

d by

: Des

ign

& In

terp

reta

tive

Serv

ices

, For

estr

y C

omm

issi

on S

cotla

nd. D

&IS

-5K

-JTC

P-09

.09

Phot

ogra

phy

by: F

ores

try

Com

mis

sion

Pic

ture

Lib

rary

, Alla

n Po

llok-

Mor

ris &

Nei

l McI

ntyr

e.Te

xt w

ritte

n by

: Mic

hael

Ham

ish

Gle

n, Q

uite

Writ

e.

The Forest walks of

Glen AffricNational Nature Reserve

ExploreEnjoy

and

Discover

Stand on the rock, which resembles a whale’s back, asthe peaty waters surge into the loch. Watch for dipperssearching for larvae below the foaming waters. Makesure you’re wearing proper footwear as the river in spatecan rage past before settling into deep dark eddies.

When the wind changes direction, you may see a heron, with his unmistakable lazy wingbeat, headingfor quieter fishing grounds. In winter, whooper swanshold icy vigils on the lochs.

The car park half way down Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin isgood for picnicking and wildlife watching. Or walk downthe road a little and up the path alongside the ‘burn ofthe flitting’, Allt na h-Imrich. It’s quite steep but you getmemorable views from the moorland. 180m

160m

120m

120m

140m

180m

220m

260m

240m

200m

140m

140m

160m

200m

240m

260m

280m

300m

320m

340m

360m

320m

220m

180m

P

25

24

23

25

24

23

29

29

Tor na M uic

W esterKnockfin

Ford

Ford

Plodda Falls

Affric Forest

Coille M hor

Torr a' Ghobail

Abhainn

Deabha

g

Ford

PloddaCottage

HiltonCottage

HiltonLodge

GuisachanHouse

PloddaLodge

Allt na Bodachan

To Cou

gie

5km/3.

1miles

To To

mich10

km/6.

2mile

s

0 1/2

1/40 1/2mile

1km

© Crown copyright. All rights reserved Forestry Com m ission. Licence No. 100025498 Published 2008.

The first tumblingtorrents you come toare just a magnificenttaster for what’s tocome! Take care onthe rising path as youpass the rocks coveredin mosses and ferns.

In this mix of nativewoodland, Victorianplanting andcommercial forest,look out for cross-billsand crested tits highin the branches andsecretive roe deeramong the trees.

The glory of thePlodda Falls willamaze you asthe burncascadesvertically with anawesome roar.And all aroundare soaring treesincluding threegreat firs plantedby LordGladstone in the 1880s.

Lord Tweedmouth bought Glen Affricestate from Clan Chisholm in the mid-1800s and built Guisachan Houseamong the trees and cottages for hisworkers. The house (Giùsachean – saygi-oosuchun – is gaelic for pineforests) has gone, but you can still seethe magnificent larch, which are alegacy for us all to enjoy today.

Much of the estate was used forshooting, but Lord Tweedmouthplanted many exotic trees including

toweringredwoodsand majesticDouglas firs,three ofwhichreplaced theoriginalmasts onCaptainScott‘s RRSDiscovery,now berthedin Dundee.

4. River Affric1.6 km / 1 mile. Allow 50 minsTake care on the rocky sections alongside the river, which can be slippery when wet

5. Plodda Falls

0.6 km / 0.4 mile. Allow 15 mins

6. Tweedmouth Walk

1.6 km / 1 mile. Allow 30 mins

glenaffric fàilte do’n gleann afaraig

welcome to

You will tread in the steps of folk who have lived here over aeons,who have harvested the woodlands, herded cattle and sheep, fished the

waters and made their own whisky. You will see where plantings of spruce

have given way to native Scots pine and where the pent-up power of the lochs

lights the lives of far-off people. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie hid after Culloden,

where Clan Chisholm ruled until the land was given over to stalking and shooting,

and where the wild red deer roam and watch over today’s visitors.

Even a fleeting visit to Glen Affric will leave an indelible memory of invitingpinewoods, shimmering lochs, enchanting islands and tumbling burns. Stay longer,

let the glen feed your soul, and your cares will fly off with the eagles.

Climb up the pathabove Dog Falls car park and drinkin the view. In the distance are the great ‘Munros’ of Tom a’ Chòinich- (hill of the moss, say tome-a-honich) and Toll Creagach - (rocky hole) - which youcan reach from the car park at Chisholm Bridge.

Look over the islands of Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin-(middle hill – say ben-a-vey-un) - and up into thepinewoods. Grazing animals have been well managedto allow young trees to grow. Below you, hardlynoticeable, is the dam holding back the waters thatfeed Fasnakyle power station.

Along the meandering trail, cheeky chaffinches willtake food from your hand below the rowans andgranny pines hanging with old man’s beard.

Feel the awesome power of the whisky-coloured riverpouring over the falls; watch for a silent otter slippinginto a dark pool searching for eels and brown troutgreedily waiting for passing insects.

Fungi like penny buns and fly agarics appear magicallyovernight in the damp woodland.

Climb past ancient Scots pine and birch, whichshield a carpet of seedlings, and along the steep traillined with blaeberries and mossy boulders. Look outover the crowns of the great pines and the hills in thedistance and get a first glimpse of Coire Loch.

Little grebes fish in summer among the water liliesand dragonflies hover above the boggy margins.Follow the trail as it sweeps throughthe heather and look for butterwortsand insect-eating sundews.

1. Viewpoint Walk1.6 km/1 mile. Allow 50 minsA steady climb from the bridgeup to the viewpoibt

3.2 km/2 miles. Allow 1 hourThe Path surface is made up ofnatural features and can be muddyat certain times of the year

5.2 km/3.25 mile. Allow 1.5 hoursNatural path surface, steep in places

2. Dog Falls3. Coire Loch

‘It’s easy to get passionate indescribing what you see whenyou love the glen so much.’

Take care of your pinewoods!When you camp; gas stoves are better, quicker and saferthan fires. If you must light a fire, make sure it’s properlysited; put it out when you leave.

If you’re walking in the hills, take a map, compass,protective clothing and food. There is no mobile phonereception in the glen.

The weather can change very quickly; alwayscarry warm, wet-weather gear and wearstrong footwear even on low-level walks.

’These Douglas firs are real cathedraltrees that inspire and captivateeveryone who walks beneath them.’

EasySensiblefootwear

ModerateWaterprooffootwear

StrenuousHillwalkingboots

EasyMuscleLoosener

ModerateMuscleStretcher

StrenuousMuscleBuilder

Trail GradesForestry Commission Scotland trails and walks aregraded according to the degree of difficulty, gradientsand type of conditions visitors can expect.

‘Autumn in Glen Affric isbreathtaking with its goldsand greens and blues.’

‘The woods are alivewith pine martens

and red squirrels – you might get a

glimpse of one!’

River Affric

Plodda Falls

Tweedmouth Walk

View towards Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin

Dogs Falls

View looking down to Coire Loch

If you need this publication in analternative format, for example, inlarge print or in another language,please contact:

The Diversity Team Tel: 0131 314 6575E-mail: [email protected]

A short loop situatedon a gentle hillside

A long decent down to the river

0.5 km / 0.3 mile. Allow 20 minsA gradual climb on a short loop

200m

200m

220m 240m 260m 280m300m 320m

220m

240m

260m

280m

300m

320m34

0m

360m400m

380m340m

280m

240m 260m

300m

320m

360m

380m

River Affr icDog Falls

FordCoire Loch

To Cannich: 7k m/4.4miles

To River Affr ic Walk:10.8km/6.7miles

© Crown copyright. All righ ts reser ved Forestry C ommission. Lic ence No. 100025498 Published 2 008.

01/2

1/4 01/2mile

1km

P

28

2829

28

28

Map of walks 1,2 and 3

Page 2: Glen Affric Guide

glen affric

The glen ofalluring aromas

Gleann nan boltrachan tàladhan

View towards Athnamulloch bothy

Bringing back the pinesFor thousands of years, people cut the Caledonian Pinewoods fortimber and cleared them for grazing land. Only remnants survivedacross the Highlands. The regeneration and conservation of thenative woodland in Glen Affric and elsewhere is a successful andrewarding endeavour that is returning great swathes of the nobleScots pine to the landscape and providing new habitats for wildlife.

gleann afaraig‘the glen of the dappled woodlands’

a thousand whispersGleann nan mile cogaran

You’ll hear the rustle of leaves on birch and aspen, and the murmur ofwind through pine needles. You might catch the bark of a roe deer or thechatter of crossbills as they split open pine cones for their seeds. You can’tmiss the mewing of a buzzard, the call of a sandpiper searching for amissing chick, the songs of warblers or the curious clicking of a stonechat.

There is always a whirr of summer insects and the tinkling of burns.Thundering waterfalls will bring shivers of excitement and the honking of greylag geese will remind you of long journeys to come.

At dusk, you might hear the yelp of a fox or thehaunting cry of an owl.

‘Ghost-like Woodcock in search of worms fly darklyagainst the long grey shadows cast by Autumn moons.’

The glen of countless coloursGleann nan dathan dò-aireamhan

Scotland’s National Nature ReservesScotland has more than 50 National Nature Reserves. In 2002, Scottish NaturalHeritage declared Glen Affric as an NNR because its precious native woodlandsare home to an astonishing variety of plants and animals. Discover more aboutScotland’s national treasures by visiting www.nnr-scotland.org.uk

Eagles soaring over Glen Affric for eight thousandyears have seen the pinewoods suffer a wet periodwhen swamped trees formed peat and then return tohealthy growth, only to be cut down for timber andfuel. The land was overgrazed by the big sheep thatreplaced tenants and used by Victorian sportsmen.

The Forestry Commission bought much of the estate in 1951 and the early foresters fenced off importantremnants of native pine forest, the first steps in a majorregeneration project. They were led by Findlay MacRae,then head forester whose dedication and custodianshipset the pattern for today’s foresters.

He ensured that deer were culled to reduce damageto young trees and the seeds of a Caledonian ForestReserve were literally sown. Today, because the woodsare actively conserved, wildlife is abundant and theforest is now a National Nature Reserve.

‘When you stand still, silent and patient, the glen is alive

with fascinating sounds.’

Examine the ancient rocks where volcanic fire painted streaks of different colours. Look for brown bracket fungus on trees,golden chanterelle mushrooms, red fly agaric with its whitespots and grey-green old man’s beard hanging from branches.

Come and see hazy bluebells and marsh violets, bright yellowbog asphodel, pimpernel, tomentil and anemone, pale yellowprimrose, pinky-white wood sorrel and dark-spotted orchids.

Then there are black crowberries, red cowberries, blueberries,orange rowan berries and red wild raspberries. The hues and

tints of Glen Affric are amazing.

You'll never forget the fresh fragrance of the juniper and the bogmyrtle. Many woodland plants were used for herbal remedies bypeople who lived close to the land.

The glen adds to our larder from the lean meat of venison and theseasonal pleasure of chanterelles to the many different berriesand fruits. Blackbirds fly from Norway for the rowan berries!

‘Everywhere is special in its own way, but Glen Affric is more special than most!’

1

1 2 3 miles0

0 2 3 4 5 kilometres

--This map is reproduced from Ordnance Survey

material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on

behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery

Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction

infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution

or civil proceedings. Forestry Commission. Licence No.

100025498. Published 2008.

‘One colour dominates – the reddish-pink of the Scotspine trunks, the fox, the deer, the squirrel, the pine marten

and the chests of bullfinches.’

‘In the clean air, you can smell the glen –

‘The wooded islands in the lochcome straight out of a fairy tale’

the resin of pine, the perfume of bog myrtle,

‘You can see why this place is called the speckledglen – the sun constantly lights up different scenes’.

The glen of

the hints of deer and musky traces of fox in early morning.’

Other Woodland

Forestry Commission Land

Key to the map

Forestry Commission Woodland

Main Road

Secondary Road

Minor Road

Road/Track

NNR Boundary

Walk Route Location Numbers

Car Park

Toilet

Forest Trail

Information/Visitor Centre

Forest Walk

Picnic Place

Viewpoint

WC

1

Looking towards Loch Affric

S tag and pine above Beinn a’ Mheadhoin