grapevine ~ july 2018 issue · the works of fabrizio da prato, roberto giansanti, keane, giorgia...

GRAPEVINEMAGAZINE

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 20182

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For food lovers and professionals alike, daily cooking classes: fresh pasta and sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan specialties, risotto, pizza, focaccia, Hands-on classes in a relaxed, fun atmosphere. Participants cook the dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home-made liqueurs. Highly recommended by Tripadvisor!

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Open every day for lunch and dinner. Special menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti for you. Special Dinner with Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli demo in the cooking class lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus, artichokes. Specialties from

kitchen, by reservation only. [email protected] the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T.Bone steak), lamb, mixed grill. Specialized in seafood dishes, with fresh fish every day!

In the green Lucca countryside, ten minutes from the city center and adjacent to the cooking school, four newly remodeled Tuscan style apartments. Terracotta floors, wooden beam ceilings, wrought-iron beds, cooking facilities … but with all modern comforts: private bathrooms, telephones, air-con, free Wi-Fi, 32” flat screen TV.

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La Cantina Di Carignano

Tuscan Sun Apartments

Restaurant Tasting menus

Contents

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2018

Art/Music/Books/Beauty Events of the Month

Bilingual CrosswordProperties for SaleProfessionalsTraditions & History

Gardens and Tours

Food & Drink

Practical

Language

Lucca Summer Festival 2018 45

Sublime Music at Pieve a Elici 6Pasquale Celona, The Light Beyond 6Puccini and Shooting Stars 19Colori & Sapori 25

Memories of a Lucchese in AustraliaAltri Tempi, Anni Fa ... Frank Viviano 8From Pieve San Paolo to San Francisco 9

The not so dud Avocado 24

Fiscal Requirements for Foreigners 23

Place-Name Limericks 27

11-18

Henri Cartier-Bresson, Capturing the Real

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22, 25, 26

27

Serenity in Florence for a Day 21

Markets, Venues, What's On: Music, Art & Exhibitions, Traditions, Sagras, Sports,Children, Cinema, Conferences

2018JulyDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

AdministrationSilvano Simi

ContributorsHelen AskhamSean BertolacciSimonetta BiagiNorma Jean BishopLinda BocciaMichael BoydChiara CalabreseJudith EdwardsMorena GuarnaschelliSue PerryFrancis PettittDonna PilletereJenny SchutzPierpaolo VannucciVirginia Wooderson

Marketing & DistributionClaudia CasoliDiana GattiNicola GirolamiSilvano Simi

Last month’s cover, Sculpture by Jimenez Deredia at San Michele, Lucca, was

photographed by Tommaso Malfanti. Our apologies for this error in attribution.

A cura di

ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE

OXO Collection The Gallerythe works of FABRIZIO DA PRATO, ROBERTO GIANSANTI, KEANE, GIORGIA MADIAI, FABIO MAESTRELLI, LUIGI PAOLINI, NICOLA SALOTTI, STEFANO TOMMASI, inspired by the music of GURDJIEFF / DE HARTMANN performed by the pianist MASSIMO SALOTTI. For this special event, the gallery will remain open until late in the evening.

, the new space dedicated to contemporary art, will present

7 July 2018 | 6 PM | BARGA

Via di Borgo, 28 | 55051 Barga (Lu), Toscana - Italia | [email protected] | www.oxogallery.com

Lake Massaciuccoli near Torre del Lago Puccini,

photo by Norma Jean Bishop

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2018 4

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A. Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI). Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed with a frame contain paid submissions.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around.

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or Direttore Responsabile.

EditorialDear Readers,

In these summer days what I feel most inclined to do is nap in the afternoon, then go to the open-air cinema at Villa Bottini in the evening (see the titles in the What's On section). I go to the beach on a weekday when there are fewer crowds, but this year, I will avoid the temptation to buy a sunhat or summer dress from the tradesmen selling on the beach. The Minister of the Interior has announced if I do so I might receive a hefty fine. Instead I'll probably take along a book and plunge myself into its pages.

In our magazine this month you'll see several articles about migrants. These Italians emigrated years ago, under safer circum-stances than the migrants are experiencing nowadays. How many of us have heard, “ah, but you're not like them”? Food for thought….

Returning to the idyllic Lucca summer, I hope you will enjoy the many concerts offered by Summer Festival, Puccini Opera Festival at Torre del Lago, AML Chamber Music Festival at Pieve a Elici, Virtuoso & Belcanto in Lucca, and others too numerous to mention. Don't wait to purchase tickets for these festivals, or you might find they have sold out. We plan to take a boat to the opera,

crossing Lake Massaciuccoli as we did last year, and invite you to join us (see the article on page 19). This romantic way to attend an

opera includes a light meal on board and efficient transportation from Lucca. The final reservation deadline is 16 July, but if you wait you may find the seats less than optimum.

If you decide to visit one of the famous Italian towns, such as Florence, take a tip from writer Sue Perry: walk on the other side of the river for a change. Avoid the crowds and discover new perspectives. Take time to savor the beauty and flavors of Italy!

In these pages we describe art exhibits by Henri Cartier-Bresson and Pasquale Celona at LuCCA Center of Contemporary Art, the

annual extemporaneous painters competition at Bagni di Lucca, and the new Oxo contemporary art gallery in Barga, inaugurating on 7 July. These are only a few to whet your appetites. And speaking of appetite, writer Judith Edwards offers suggestions for recipes that you might want to try out, when you aren't at a village sagra tasting the local products.

Lucca, and all of Italy, is a moveable feast. Follow your heart. Enjoy!– Norma and the Grapevine Team

Forget the mud, high prices and poor ucca's extraordinary summer catering of English pop festivals; Lucca's festival is with us again, this summer festival organised by entrepreneurs year from 23 June to 26 July. L D'Alessandro e Galli is set in the civilized Lucky those who were able to setting of Piazza Grande and, in the case of attend last year's Rolling Stones concert Roger Waters, by the city's remarkable tree-held in this stunning city! lined walls. Prices are affordable and, best Artistes this year include Hollywood of all, the festival attracts an audience of Vampires, Ringo Starr & his all Starr Band, every age and interest.Roger Waters, Gorillaz, Max Pezzali, Nek

I look forwards this year to the musical & Francesco Renga, Nick Cave & The Bad contrasts offered, the convivial atmosphere, Seeds, Lenny Kravitz with Gary Clark Jr, and the historic setting.James Taylor with special guest Bonnie

It's not just the audience that love the Raitt, Gianni Morandi, King Crimson, festival; it's the artistes, many of whom Marcus Miller with Norah Jones.have been returning since 1998 when it Wow.... What a lineup! I've already began. Jeff Beck returns from 2010 and decided who I particularly want to see.Elton John has already performed three As someone old enough to have heard times. It seems artistes fall in love with Jimi Hendrix live and attended the Cream's Lucca (no surprise) and I'm sure several last concert I've had mixed feelings about who are new to this year's festival will subsequent pop and rock festivals. Since return. Long may the Lucca Summer living in Lucca province, however, my Festival continue to bring us performers of interests have re-awakened and I've been the widest appeal and highest performance glad to hear such great artists as Elton John, standard. It's truly another jewel in this Liza Minnelli, Tom Jones, Van Morrison, remarkable city's crown.and Leonard Cohen.

Lucca Summer Festival 2018

You can follow Francis Pettitt’s blog at http://longoio3.wordpress.com

For dates, see the Grapevine calendar in the What’s On section.

Full lineup and booking details are at http://www.summer-festival.com/

Capturing the Real


enri Cartier-Bresson was born in Chanteloup, France, in 1908. During World War II he escaped from a prisoner of war camp on his third attempt, H then participated in the underground Resistance,

and later photographed the liberation of Paris in 1945. In 1947 he and his colleagues (Robert Capa, George Rodger, David Seymour, and William Vandivert) created Magnum Photos, one of the world's most important photographic agencies. According to Cartier-Bresson, the camera is a sketch book, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity, the master of the instant which, in visual terms, questions and decides simultaneously. It is by economy of in the sand in their bathing suits; a refugee boat's arrival that means that one arrives at simplicity of expression. finally returns a missing son to his mother. One of my favorite

Cartier-Bresson's photographs, taken in the USA between the photographs shows businessmen sitting or lying in a city park, 1930s and 1960s and now on exhibit at the Lucca Museum of apparently weighed down by the bad times they were experienc-Contemporary Art, are stunning. This collection of 101 black and ing then. Another radically different image is of cotton pickers in white photographs made with his beloved Leica presents an America the South, with an aesthetic composition that almost belies the divided between rich and poor, black and white, urban and rural, in a brutality of this work.period of time that ranged from the Cartier-Bresson died in Provence,Depression to the boom of the post-war France, in 2004 when he was almost period, to the delusional dreams of the early 96 years old. What an incredible Sixties. What is most striking is the acuteness artist! What an incredible career! He of his camera's eye as it observes people in was more than a photographer. He their context of time and space. Here we have was an artist who brought nobility to nuns visiting an exhibition of Matisse’s the art of journalism. In his words: If dancing nudes, and New York ladies in their it is possible to photograph the hats and coats chatting and looking up at “core” of the event as well as the New York's skyline. Another photo shows sparks that have sprung up, this is the fashionable writer Truman Capote when reportage. He wanted to capture a he was still a fresh-faced boy surrounded by fraction of a second of the real. the lush Southern landscape. From 1947 Sometimes that fraction of a second come many memorable images: a beautiful speaks volumes.black woman in Harlem (New York) wearing an elegant Easter Sunday hat (typical of that – by Norma Jean Bishoptime in history) being admired by an equally well dressed young man; a group of poor

The exhibit Henri Cartier-Bresson in America black men playing checkers with the board

can be visited until 11 November 2018, resting on their knees (no table) while daily except Mondays, from 10am to 7pm.waiting for a “long distance haul” job to Tel. 0583 492180materialize; the carefree exuberances of LuCCA Center for Contemporary Art,

Via della Fratta, 36, Luccayoung men and women at Coney Island lying

Park Avenue, Manhattan, New York, USA, 1959 © Henri Cartier-Bresson / Magnum Photos

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Pasquale Celona, The Light Beyond

f we can see with the heart and not just the eye, we go beyond physical forms. This metaphysics of light takes us to special realms, through what I curator Maurizio Vanni refers to as a genuine stargate,

creating harmony with nature's heart and the essence of vision.The bright colors and flowing harmonies in Pasquale Celona's

paintings bring a joyous pleasure to our gaze, evoking serenity, grace, and brilliance. We can detect his inspiration from past artistic masters such as Botticelli and Masaccio, as well as from the Surrealists and Mannerists.

This exhibition in the Lounge and Underground of the LuCCA Center for Contemporary Art is a gem. Not radically modern or experimental, simply a radiant expression that brings a smile to our face. Light reflecting light.

Originally from Calabria, Pasquale Celona now lives in Florence, where in 1997, together with his brother Piero he created the Firenze Biennale, of which he is the president. The next Firenze Biennale will take place in October 2019.

The exhibit La Luce Oltre can be visited until 16 August 2018, daily except Mondays, from 10am to 7pm.

LuCCA Center for Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36,Lucca

Someday perhaps the inner light will shine forth from us and then we'll need no other light.

? Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

lose your eyes and imagine yourself on a high ridge with a large lake and the Tyrhennian Sea on one side and the Apuan

mountains on the other. Envision before you the beautiful Romanesque church of San Pantaleone and, entering into its placid interior, find yourself ready to hear some the finest music ever created. You may then realise that you are at Pieve a Elici and are part of the audience at one of Italy's premiere chamber music festivals.

Sublime Music at Pieve a Elici

La Primavera, 1985

Davanti alle Colonne d'Ercole, 1997 Pasquale Celona (left), Maurizio Vanni (right)


lose your eyes and imagine yourself on a high ridge with a large lake and the Tyrhennian C Sea on one side and the Apuan

mountains on the other. Envision before you the beautiful Romanesque church of San Pantaleone and, entering into its placid interior, find yourself ready to hear some the finest music ever created. You may then realise that you are at Pieve a Elici and are part of the audience at one of Italy's premiere chamber music festivals.

We've been going to Pieve a Elici for some years now. In 2017 we were elated The full list of concerts, organised Make a day of it! First, bathe by by a sublime performance of Messiaen's by the AML (Associazione Musicale the Versilia coast, enjoy a seafood Quartet for the End of Time which took Lucchese) since 1967, includes lunch, wander in the beautiful woods place in the church's courtyard. Paganini's Capricci, Brahms' Horn of the Apuans and then bathe again,

Pieve a Elici is easy to reach by car Trio, Piazzolla, Ravel, Martucci, this time in the wonderful sounds of a from Lucca: just take the main road to Webern and much more. For more Pieve a Elici concert.Viareggio and turn off at Massarosa. details see page 10. – by Francis Pettitt

ustralia has always been a country full of foreigners. Year after year, especially since the early 1950s, it has received more and more immigrants. The Second A World War brought various migratory flows from

France, Germany, and some Asian countries. Reaching Australia from Europe after the Second World War meant a sea voyage which lasted thirty days. When the ship crossed the equator they had a party and each passenger received a certificate showing that he or she had made the crossing.

This huge country usually brings to mind images of outdoor There was also the problem of language, says Aleandro. sports, such as the Australian Open tennis tournament, interesting Speaking English meant you were deserving of respect and politeness cultural events, such as making barbecues on Christmas day, and and if you spoke it incorrectly, you wouldn't get anywhere.fabulous animals such as koalas and In subsequent years the situation kangaroos. changed. People had more possibilities of

Talking about the economy, the receiving a stable job. That gave them a situation was not always so rosy. One decent amount of money and it became Italian migrant from Lucca, easier for them to find a house to live in. Aleandro, said that economic Therefore, in the 1970s Australia became problems always characterized that Dante’s Paradise, says Aleandro. The old period. In fact, in the 1950s the many migrants became new citizens and their migratory flows weighed on the situation improved considerably. The Australian economy and as a result migrants had more chances to receive they required the migrants to live in citizenship. shelters. According to Aleandro, According to Aleandro, Australians these migrants lived in good have always shown a great hospitality to conditions for two years, because migrants. A migrant in Australia always they were obliged to remain in the had the possibility to do anything, without government's hands. This did not worries. For example, he could go into a have a positive impact on the shop and be welcomed by the shopkeeper, migrants. However, after these two or he could walk across the road and say years they were able to search for a hello to pedestrians. So Australian life house to live in and to request seemed positive and meaningful.citizenship. The 1950s Australian Nowadays, we notice with pleasure economy was not very efficient. how this huge country has been able to Unemployment was widespread and organize and modernize itself, to be the migrants had problems. It was welcoming for everybody.difficult to pay bills due to lack of jobs, because there were too many – by Sean Bertolaccimigrants. Liceo Vallisneri

Welcome to Australia!Memories from Lucca

Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to

create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]


automobile in 1925, constructing a wooden frame Frank is a Sicilian who grew up in Detroit, and decorating it with mosaics, then installing a though he has been living in Tuscany for nearly motor from a Ford Model-T. twenty years, while working as a journalist

Nonna Caterina was the most extraordinary around the world. The dishes from his Sicilian childhood (see cook I've ever encountered, and I speak as someone who has lived below) enrich local Tuscan traditions, including such new tastes as for three decades in Paris and Tuscany, and spent more than ten

turmeric and cinnamon alongside our old favourites.... His years in China. She was deeply affectionate, with none of the sharp

fascinating book Blood Washes Blood gives us a true story of love, edges of Nonna Angelina, although their very differences murder, and redemption in Sicily, the land where lemons grow, as somehow permitted me to love them both unequivocally. But it Goethe once called it. This is definitely worth a read. Here we have was my maternal grandmother who comforted me when I returned Frank in his own words: from my first war as a foreign correspondent, shattered by what I

Three of my grandparents – had seen. She understood immediately, and said, Fighiu miu, mi Francesco Paolo Viviano, Angelina cuore! in dialect. My child, my heart! Then she took me in her arms Tocco and Caterina Cammarata – as though I was still the little boy who was her first grandchild. were born and raised in Terrasini, an A story about Nonno Viviano: There was an elderly African-ancient fishing village on the Golfo American gentleman, Julius Green, who had worked for Grandpa di Castellammare. The fourth, at least 30 years when I was a young vendor of lemons. One day I Salvatore DiGiuseppe, was from needed help filling my pushcart and called out Give me a hand, Partinico, a mountain town 25 km to Julie! That's what my grandfather called him, naturally, since the west. Between 1910 and 1914, all they'd been friends since 1920. To my shock, Nonno walked over four of them emigrated to America. and slapped me across the face, the only time in our life together They settled initially in East Harlem that he did such a thing. You call him 'Mister Green,' Frankie. and later moved to Detroit, where I Never 'Julie.' was raised. Our family resided in It was a lesson of huge importance, about dignity and respect, America, but our lives were almost and I never forgot it. entirely Sicilian in spirit. I never ate anything but Sicilian food, not even a hamburger or

Nonno Viviano, after whom I was named, was an itinerant fish hot dog, until I was 18. Why would I? Peer pressure couldn't begin peddler in Harlem and became a fruit and vegetable wholesaler in to compete with what was on offer at our family table. We dined Michigan. He imported lemons from the Castellamare coast, together every Sunday afternoon at Grandma Angelina's or

Grandma Caterina's, often as many as 50 of us. The 'mericani kids which I sold from a pushcart on weekends from the age of eight in brought peanut butter sandwiches to school for lunch. I brought the mid-1950s, walking through the streets of the Detroit Farmer's insalata di polpo and arancini di riso. Here are two favorite of my Market crying out Sicilian lemons, three dozen for a dollar. dishes from the vast repertoire of my grandmothers:Viviano's the Best!

Nonna Angelina was a mystic, a sorceress who cast (mostly) benevolent spells, and a poet. She began working in New York garment factories at the age of 13, and eloped with my grandfather when she was barely 16 and he was 19. They were first cousins, and forbidden to marry. He pretended to kidnap her, and she pretended to fight back, but everyone understood that was theater. The kidnapping meant that the family had to accept the marriage, since Angelina was presumably no longer a virgin. They were together 68 years.

Nonno DiGiuseppe, like Nonno Viviano, was illiterate, spoke almost no English, and arrived alone and penniless in New York as a teenager. Also like my paternal grandfather, he built his own

– by Judith Edwardsbusiness from nothing. He was a tile and terrazzo contractor, a www.cansurviving.comformidable ceramics artisan who covered almost every surface of

the family home with intricate mosaics. He even built his own www.judithedwards.co.uk

Spiedini alla Palermitana1. Flatten boneless pork loin or veal with a wooden mallet, & cut into 2cm x 4cm strips.2. Dip into olive oil, then into a mixture of grated breadcrumbs, grated aged pecorino cheese, chopped parsley, salt & pepper.3. Roll them into involtini, alternated on wooden spits with bay leaves & pieces of onion. 4. Grill under a broiler until the meat is cooked.5. Remove from oven & top with a classic Sicilian condiment, moighiu. Its components are: crushed tomato, crushed raw garlic, olive oil, fresh lemon, oregano, salt & pepper.

Bucatini al cavolfiore1. Roast florets of cauliflower in a hot oven until tender, dusted with turmeric & cinnamon.2. Sauté chopped garlic in a large pan. Add anchovies to taste.3. Boil bucatini, around 500 grams for 4 people.4. Add cauliflower to olive oil mixture in the pan, toss, then add roasted pine nuts, sultana raisins & cooked bucatini, toss again. 5. Serve topped with mollica: grated breadcrumbs sautéed in a pan with a small amount of olive oil, a tablespoon of tomato sauce, chopped garlic, parsley, salt & pepper.

Altri tempi, Anni fa ...Frank Viviano & the Land where Lemons Grow


Maternal grandfather Salvatore DiGiuseppe, in Detroit

Frank Viviano &Angelina Tocca at their second wedding in Detroit in 1917, a month after her abduction to Canada.

uirico della Santina was born in January 1939 in the village of Pieve San Paolo, about six kilometers outside of Lucca. He grew up here and played soccer for the QLucca’s youth and professional teams. Soccer has

always been a quintessential interest and pastime for Italians, even during wartime. Quirico joined the professional team at age 14, and even now, living in Larkspur (north of the Golden Gate Bridge), he plays soccer on Sundays. At the same time he grew up in the family businesses: the bakery and pasta factory and the grocery, which is still operating, but under new management. His cousins Vicenzo and Alberto continue to get up early and start the focaccia baking as daylight peeks over the mountains. When staying in Quirico's apartment several years ago, we went to the bakery almost daily, when the wonderfully fragrant smells of fresh focaccia filled the air. Focaccia still warm from the oven is even more delectable.

As in most small communities Quirico and Shirley left Pieve

Pieve San Paolo's inhabitants are San Paolo and moved to the San

not only friends, but part of a close-Francisco Bay area, returning to

knit extended family. The local Italy for a visit nine years later.

church, where the Festa di San Many changes had happened;

Giuseppe is celebrated three weeks Pieve San Paolo was no longer

after Easter, is an important point based on farming but had become

of identity. Quirico recalls being an an extension of Lucca. An indus-

altar boy at a wedding in 1949 or trial revolution had taken place, so

1950, when the groom was absent many people now worked in

because he was working abroad in factories. There were problems of

the U. S. This man from Pieve San pollution, because no regulations

Paolo had written to his family to were in place at that time. In 1960,

ask if someone wanted to get mar-the canal alongside the present

ried. His family did some research bakery was clean and used for

and found a willing young lady. swimming and fishing. When

The potential groom wrote to Quirico returned, he found

her family and asked directly that it had become an open

whether the girl wanted to get sewer. Regulations eventually

married. Satisfied that she and came, but the water was never

her family were in agreement, as pristine and the water table

he then arranged for the mar-has now dropped.

riage and got the papers from After working for his the church. Both sides pro- cousin and uncle in their vided a guest list, including a California restaurant, Quirico reception. The groom was not opened his own restaurant in present. This wedding senza lo the wine country north of San sposo (without the groom) was Francisco. Now his son Robert common practice during and with his granddaughter Laura directly after World War II. and other family members

Quirico's father-in-law, participate in running the who worked for the U. S. restaurant. So three genera-railroad until he reached age tions continue the thread that 35, came back to Pieve San originated with the bakery and Paolo to look for a wife. As family grocery store in Pieve they say around Lucca, San Paolo.moglie e buoi dei paesi tuoi, meaning that wives and oxen should come from your own town, the reason being that you wanted to know your future wife's background.

Quirico's wife Shirley was born in Sacramento, California. She came to visit her Italian grandparents in Pieve San Paolo in 1958. Here she met Quirico. He was in his family's grocery store and she had missed a bus to her grandparents' house, so she accepted a Vespa ride. In 1960 they married and moved to San Francisco.

– by Linda Boccia

photos: 1. Three generations: Quirico, his granddaughter Laura Ongaro,

and over the fireplace his grandmother Argentina (the source of most of his recipes)

2. Church of Pieve San Paolo, 1940s3. Quirico’s father, back row, third from the left, 1940s

From Pieve San Paolo to San Francisco


Pieve a EliciJuly-August 2018

Pieve romanica di San Pantaleone9.15 pm

� Sunday, July 1Francesca DEGO violin

Martin OWEN hornMaria PERROTTA piano

Music by Schumann, Ligeti, Messiaen, Brahms

� Sunday, July 8Kirill TROUSSOV violin

Alexandra TROUSSOVA pianoMusic by Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Tchaikovsky

� Saturday, July 14Andrea LUCCHESINI piano

Music by Schumann, Schubert, Beethoven

� Sunday, July 22 TRIO METAMORPHOSI

Mauro Loguercio violinFrancesco Pepicelli cello

Angelo Pepicelli pianoMusic by Beethoven, Schumann

� Monday, July 30Enrico DINDO cello

Pietro DE MARIA pianoMusic by Beethoven, Schumann, Martucci

� Sunday, August 5Danilo ROSSI violaStefano BEZZICCHERI pianoMusic by Schumann, Brahms, Sibelius, Kreisler, Ravel, Piazzolla

� Sunday, August 12Quartetto GUADAGNINI stringsFabrizio Zoffoli violinCristina Papini violinMatteo Rocchi violaAlessandra Cefaliello celloSimone SOLDATI pianoMusic by Webern, Haydn, Schumann

� Sunday, August 19Anna KRAVTCHENKO pianoMusic by Haydn, Rachmaninov, Chopin

� Sunday, August 26 Pavel BERMAN violinMusic by Paganini - 24 Caprices for Solo Violin

VERSILIA CHAMBERMUSIC FESTIVAL

51st Concert SeasonPIEVE A ELICIMASSAROSA

Tickets € 12,00 (full price) € 10,00 (concessions*) € 7,00 (for AML members) Info Associazione Musicale Lucchese: tel. 0583 469960 | Comune di Massarosa: Ufficio del Cittadino tel. 0584 979229 - Ufficio Cultura tel. 0584 979216www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it* Concessions are available to under-25s and over-60s, military and members of recognised associations.

Comune di MassarosaAssessorato alla cultura

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ccucci

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WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUNDGRAPEVINE

July 2018 fold-

out events calendar

Ma

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General markets Books and prints Arts & Craft

NEW, Lucca fruits & vegetables Wed after 4pm Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsLucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m.

Antiques Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday

Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersForte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Pietrasanta 1st Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.Barga 2nd SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.

Markets in Florence (the biggest)Viareggio 4th Sat/SundayTonfano Sat a.m. Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysBientina 4th Sat/SundayCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

15 minutes from Lucca at: San Martino in Vignale 55060

Via per Pieve Santo Stefano 3427/a

Hours: 10 to 12.30 Mondays/Saturdays10 to 12.30, 14.30 to 17 Tuesdays to Fridays

Wine & oil tastings

Contacts:[email protected]

Tel. 0583 394412 (fax 0583 395814)

Tenuta

MARIA TERESA

Wines, Oils, Honey, Pasta …all made on the estate, using traditional methods

Three beautiful villas, each with its own

private swimming pool …

From 3 bedrooms 2 baths to 5 bedrooms 5 bathsSurrounded by nature, olive groves, and silence

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Lucca: Around Lucca: to midnight.

A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also

B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma. Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584

della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. 757443.

C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center & SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.

photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.Pisa:D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a MorianoT3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. 450278. Barga:

Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle

Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. 490530, [email protected], P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. Prato:G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.U. Palazzo Pretorio. H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.

www.palazzopretorio.prato.itH2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia:V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara. 55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza

www.museodeltessuto.itI1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.

V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. Florence:J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60. J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Q6. Viareggio. Villa Argentina, Via Fratti 44 (ang. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. Via Vespucci). Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.itKK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. Forte dei Marmi: Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it

280292, www.villabertelli.it Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10. R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm www.guccimuseo.com

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

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San Giuliano Terme


8LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Ringo Starr & the All Starr Band

9.15pm, Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), Romanesque church of San Pantaleone. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. Music by Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Tchaikovsky performed by Kirill Troussov & Alexandra Troussova (violin, piano). See information on page 10.

159.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Tosca

16 17LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds6.30pm, Lucca, Santa Maria dei Servi Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Festival. 9.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. Canti nel mondo. FLAM concert. €4. 0583 583150.

18LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Lenny Kravitz & Gary Clark Jr.6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio, conversation with Guido Zaccagnini, music & images. Virtuoso & Belcanto. 9.30pm, Palazzo Pfanner. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert by Voces Intimae.

236.30pm, Lucca, Church of San Salvatore. Virtuoso & Belcanto Students Concert.

25LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: King Crimson

6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Student Concert.9.30pm, Lucca, Casa del Boia. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert by Voces Intimae & friends.

11LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Roger Waters

45pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Saletta Suffredini (ex-Archivio). IAM Festival concert. From Beethoven to Ravel.9.15pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Lyric concert to help people with disabilities. Tenor Marco Voleri, soprano Elisa Bovi, & sand artist Silvia Emme.

9

106pm, Lucca, San Martino Church. Esteban Elizondo, organ. FLAM concert.

35pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Saletta Suffredini (ex-Archivio). IAM Festival. Tae Eun Kim, Jiaqi Zhang & Lok Ching Viann Yu (pianists).9.15pm, Castelnuovo, Cappuccini Church, via dell’Ospedale. Music of Eastern Europe.9.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. Frank Bridge Trio. €4. 0583 583150.

25pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Saletta Suffredini (ex-Archivio). IAM International Academy of Music Festival concert. Soyoung Choe (piano) performing Rameau, Beethoven, Ravel, Liszt.9.15pm, student gala (same location as above).

1LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL (article on page 4): Sfera Ebbasta

9.15pm, Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), Romanesque church of San Pantaleone. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. Music by Schumann, Ligeti, Messiaen, Brahms performed by Francesca Dego, Martin Owen, Maria Perrotta (violin, horn, piano). See information on page 10.

22LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Gianni Morandi

9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Violin Competition.9.30pm, Lucca, Santa Maria dei Servi Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert. 9.15pm, Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), Romanesque church of San Pantaleone. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. Music by Beethoven & Schumann performed by Trio Metamorphosi (violin, cello, piano). See information on page 10.

29noon, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert. 6pm, Lucca, San Martino Church. Cristoph Kublman, organ. FLAM.6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Fortepiano Students Concert.9.30pm, Lucca, San Romano Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Closing Concert by the Chamber Orchestra with Jan Bjoranger.

Wed Mon Tues

To locate the venues, see the map & list above.

Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Music & TheatreJuly 2018

309.15pm, Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), Romanesque church of San Pantaleone. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. Music by Beethoven, Schumann, Martucci performed by Enrico Dindo & Pietro De Maria (cello, piano). See information on page 10.

319.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. La luna dietro gli ulivi. €4. 0583 583150.

Coming UpTeatro del Giglio opera season: 19 & 21 October, Suor Angelica & Gianni Schicchi. 18 & 20 January, Otello. 22 & 24 February, Lucia di Lammermoor. 16 & 17 March, La bohème. Subscribers (also for the prose & dance season) can confirm subscriptions from 4

249.30pm, Lucca, Church of San Michele. Virtuoso & Belcanto Chamber Orchestra concert with Jan Bjoranger.

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26LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Norah Jones & Marcus Miller

6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Student Concert. 9.30pm, Lucca, Palazzo Pfanner. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert.

9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Manon.

279.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: La Bohème.

9.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. Legend of Lucida Mansi. €4. 0583 583150.

9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Chamber Music Competition. 9.15pm, Lucca, San Martino Church. Various organists performing Bach & others.

9.30pm, Lucca, Santa Maria dei Servi Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Competition Winners Final Concert.

2812 noon, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Student Concert.

9pm, Bagni di Lucca Casinò (Ponte a Serraglio), Virtuoso & Belcanto Winners of the Adolfo Betti Award for String Quartets Concert.

9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Turandot.

12LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Gorillaz

56pm, Lucca, Piazza Cittadella. Puccini Postcards. Il Trittico with singers from Virtuoso & Belcanto Opera Project.

139.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. Il Canto degli Alberi. FLAM concert.Pistoia Blues Festival, with James Blunt, Graham Nash, Alanis Morisette, etc.13 to 15 July.

66pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Virtuoso & Belcanto Opera Project Concert. Intorno a Suor Angelica & Giannni Schicchi.9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Laura Papeschi (harp) with the Boccherini Orchestra. Music by Debussy.9.15pm, Lucca, Botanical Garden. L’Opera buffa nel ‘700. FLAM concert.9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Andrea Bocelli for Puccini's Messa di Gloria.Castelnuovo di Garfagnana: 4pm, Saletta Suffredini (ex-Archivio). IAM Festival concert by Magdalina Mishima (piano) performing.6pm, IAM Festival concerts for the Centro Storico.9.15pm, Cappuccini Church, via dell’Ospedale. IAM concert, Chamber Music 1800s to 1900s.9.15pm, Lucca Botanical Garden. Il Canto degli Alberi. Accademia Malfatti. €4. 0583 583150.

7LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Hollywood Vampires (Johnny Depp, Alice Cooper, Joe Perry)

9.15pm, Lucca, Sant'Andrea Church. Suoni di seta alla Corte d'Elisa. Baroque chambre music. €10/€7, https://luccachambermusicfestival.org

196.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Student Concert.

9.30pm, Lucca, Santa Maria dei Servi Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert.


Friday Thu

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

20LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: James Taylor & Bonnie Raitt

9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto Cello Competition.6pm, Lucca, San Martino Church. Jean Cristoph Geyser, organ.6.30pm, Lucca, Palazzo Bernardini, conversation with Guido Zaccagnini.9.30pm, Lucca, Botanical Garden. Il canto degli alberi (Singing of the trees). Virtuoso & Belcanto concert by professors.

9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Madama Butterfly.

219am, Lucca, Real Collegio, Virtuoso & Belcanto Viola Competition.4pm, Lucca, Real Collegio, Virtuoso & Belcanto Piano Competition.

9.30pm, Nozzano Castello, Virtuoso & Belcanto Concert.

9pm, Celle dei Puccini. Lucchesi nel Mondo concert: Celle Sotto le Stelle, performed by the Accademia Malfatti (article in June Grapevine).


14LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL: Max, Nek, Renga


9pm, Pieve di Brancoli, Stabat Mater by Silvano Pieruccini.9.15pm, Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), Romanesque church of San Pantaleone. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. Music by Beethoven, Schumann, Schubert performed by Andrea Lucchesini (piano). See information on page 10.


Puccinielasualucca for its summer season (31 March to 31 October)offers daily concerts at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm.

Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042.www.puccinielasualucca.com - [email protected]

Program: Mondays Puccini & Mozart, Tuesdays Puccini’s Women, Wednesdays Italian Opera Recital, Thursdays Puccini & Verdi, Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, Saturdays A Night at the Opera,

Sundays Puccini & the Neapolitan Song Tradition

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

July to 3 August. New subscriptions can be made from 25 August to Lucchesi nel Mondo concerts: Concert at Versilia Chamber Music Festival continues at 6 September. The box office is open until 3 August from 10.30am to Castelvecchio Pascoli, 10 August at 9pm. Puccini Pieve a Elici on 5/12/19/26 August. See page 10 1pm Tuesdays to Saturdays. After 25 August, Wednesdays to recital at Teatro del Giglio, 14 September at 9pm. for details.Saturdays 10.30am to 1pm & 3 to 6pm.

Turandot 15 September deadline for entering the Pino Torre del Lago Puccini Festival: Lucca Animando (Il Settecento Musicale a Lucca) Concert: 7

14/21/28 July & 17 Aug. Tosca 15 July & 4/12 Aug. Massara international competition for pop or Oct. (at Santa Maria Dei Servi Church, Lucca)

Madama Butterfly 20 July & 10/18 Aug. jazz compositions. For EU residents under 35 www.animandolucca.it

Manon 26 July. La Bohème 27 July & 3 Aug. years of age. Organized by MAP; SIAE, Circolo Lucca, Piazza Cittadella, 6pm: Puccini Postcards.2 August Tosca, Il Trittico 11/25 Aug. Join Grapevine on 3 Aug. for La Lucca Jazz, & supported by the Fondazione Banca 6 September Madama Butterfly. 14 September 9pm, Puccini Bohème & 10 Aug. for Madama Butterfly. Reserve del Monte di Lucca. €25,000 in prize money. recital at Teatro del Giglio. soon for best seats! See article on page 19. www.mapautori.it

Saturday

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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. Treasures tracing the history of Lucca. In January the Cristo Eucaristico, a polychrome terracotta by Matteo Civitali (1436-1501), was returned to Lucca by the Italian police & placed in the museum more than 70 years after it was stolen by the Germans from Santa Maria della Rosa Church in February, 1944. The museum is open (summer hours) Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 1.30pm & (for accompanied visits) 3.30pm to 5.30pm. Tel. 0583 496033.

Palazzo Mansi Museum. Summer hours: Tuesdays to Saturdays 9.30am to 11.30am & 2.30pm to 4.30pm.

Both of the above museums are closed on Sundays, holidays & holiday Mondays.

Lucca,

Lucca,

Pietrasanta,Lucca,

Pietrasanta,

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca. Cosmic Energy in the Sculptures of Jimenez Deredia. Until 10 September. In town squares & at Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza S. Martino 7. See Grapevine cover & article in the May issue. www.fondazionebmleventi.it

4pm, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza San Martino 7. Guided visit to Deredia a Lucca, L'Energia cosmica nella scultura di Jimenez Deredia. 5 euro. 5pm, walking tour to discover the sculptures in the city. 10 euro. Combined ticket 13 euros. Reservations: 0583 464062, weekends 345 0224989.

Guided Visits Mondays to Fridays 9am to 5pm, continuing until September:

Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Per Sogni e per Chimere, Giacomo Puccini & le Arti Visive (Puccini & the Visual Arts). 18 May to 23 September. See article in June Grapevine.

Lu.C.C.A. Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Henri Cartier-Bresson in America 16 June to 11 November. Pasquale Celona, La Luce Oltre 16 June to 16 August. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays. See articles on pages 5 & 6.

Luigi Rosso Cultural Center. Church of Cloister of S. Augustino. Poetica della traduzione by Manolo Valdès. Hours: Mondays 2pm to 7pm, Tuesdays to Saturdays 9am to 1pm, 2pm to 7pm. 21 June to 30 September. Tel. 0584 795500. www.museodeibozzi.it

MuSA (Museum of Sculpture & Architecture). Conversations with artists,

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEVINWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

23 24 25

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22LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Firenze, Palazzo Strozzi. Nascita di una Nazione (Birth of a nation) tra Guttuso, Fontana & Schifano. Art, politics, society 1950s-1960s. www.palazzostrozzi.org

Viareggio, Villa Argentina, Via A. Fratti ang. Via A. Vespucci 44. Versilia, ricordi di un’estate al mare (memories of a summer at the sea). Images from the Alinari, Lucca Province & Chini Archives, curated by Enrico Stefanelli. Tues. to Sun. 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 6.30pm. Tel. 0584 1647600, FB Villa Argentina Viareggio.

29LAST DAY: Sillico, Pieve Fosciana, Palazzo Carli. Arte al Plurale. From the Figurative to the Abstract. 4pm to 7pm Saturdays, 10am to 12pm & 4pm to 7pm Sundays. Tel 328 6232904 for other times.

2 3 4

8LAST DAY:

ONE DAY ONLY:

Lido di Camaiore,

Ponte a Serraglio (Bagni di Lucca),

Galleria EuropaLungomare Europa, 41 FANTASTIC FLY, paintings by Beppe Francesconi, Armando Orfeo, Valente Taddei. Open daily 9pm to 11.30pm. Info: 333 2318295. www.mercurioviareggio.comfacebook Organized by Mercurio Arte Contemporanea.

Villa Fiori Park. Extemporaneous Painting Day. See article on page 25.

1OPENING:

LAST DAY:

Forte dei Marmi,

Pisa,

Ugo Guidi Museum. La Forza del Colore. Collective exhibit organized by AsART Magazine. Inauguration 6pm. Open daily 6pm to 8pm except Tuesdays. Until 13 July.

Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Il Viaggio di Marco Polo in the photos of Michael Yamashita. Hours: Mondays to Fridays 10am to 7pm, Sat/Sun/holidays 10am to 8pm. Tel. 050 2204650,[email protected]

Wed TuesMon

Exhibitions, July 2018

Sunday

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Don’t miss the “last days” of exhibits, shown in red on the calendar below.

To locate the venues, see the maps & list on the back of this calendar.

Firenze,

Viareggio,

Viareggio,

Picciorana (Lucca),

Pisa,

New York University, Limonaia Villa La Pietra, Via Bolognese 120. Camera Obscura Views of Villas & their Environs, the photography of Abelardo Morell. 17 May to 14 September 2018. Visits by appointment (reserve at:

Villa Argentina. Documentary art [email protected]. May & June. Tel. 0584 1647600.

GAMC Museum. Possenti, di segni & di sogni (of signs & of dreams). Until 11 Nov. Tel. 0584 581118, www.gamc.it

Vivai Marino Favilla, Via di Picciorana 262. “Emotional Space” inaugurated on 24 March. Sculpture by Choi Yook Sook, glassworks by Bruno Pedrosa & Simone Crestani, photography by Riccardo Bagnoli. Events will be planned for Friday afternoons. See the article in the April Grapevine. www.greenheartfavilla.it

Val d’Aosta (Bard),

Jesolo Lido (VE),

Feltri (Bolzano),

Pisa,

Matisse. 7 July to 14 October. €9. www.fortedibard.it.

Spazio Aquilia 123. Gods, pharoahs, humans. Until 15 September. www.mostraegitto.com

Castello Vescovile. New Feltri & Belluno Diocesan Museum. A complete restoration of the Bishops Palace at

Palazzo Blu, Pisa Città della Ceramica. 5 May to 5 November 2018. the summit of the Via del Paradise, western quadrant of the so-called “Vertical City” & its millenarian architecture. 27 rooms of art, including frescoes by Mantegna & others.

followed by an aperitif. 6.30pm to 8.30pm. 13 July Daphné Du Barry, 3 August Philippe Delenseigne, 24 August Claudio Capotondi.

Santa Maria della Spina Church, Palazzo Gambacorti. Michelangelo Pistoletto, Il Tempo del Giudizio. 27 May to 31 August 2018.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

RAPEVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

26

19

6Lucca, OPENING: Corte

dell’Angelo, Saletta Espositiva. Les Fleurs, exhibit of paintings by children with special needs. Until 20 July. www.proges.it

5

13

20Pontremoli (MS), OPENING:

Palazzo Dosi Magna-vacca. 11am. Libro d’Artista, 59 well-known artists will present “edible” books.

12

7Barga, OPENING: Via di Borgo 28. Oxo Gallery. Inauguration at 6pm. New

space for contemporary art, with works by Fabrizio Da Prato, Roberto Giansanti, Keane, Giorgia Madiai, Fabio Maestrelli, Luigi Paolini, Nicola Salotti, Stefano Tommasi. Massimo Salotti at the piano with music by Gurdjieff/De Hartmann. See announcement on page 3.

14Portovenere (La Spezia),

Lucca,

OPENING:

LAST DAY:

Via Cappellini 99, Sala Mantero. A-MARE, personal show by the young painter Nicol Squillaci. Until 20 July. Inauguration 15 July 6pm, after which the exhibit will be open from 10am to 10pm daily. Sea images from the Cinque Terre region.

Via Elisa, Villa Bottini, Salone Nobile. Face’arts International Contemporary Art Exhibition by Mary Speri.

28

Saturday Thu

21Capannori,

Lucca,

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Athena Museum, Via Carlo Piaggia. Collective exhibit: Via Francigena, Lungo il Camino. Mon to Sat 9am to noon, also Tues & Thurs 2.30pm to 5.30pm.

Palazzo Ducale, Sala Trono. Museo Paolo Cresci. Exhibit on Italian emigration by Cristina Escobar & Delphine Gatinois. Una form nell’essenza.

Friday

Exhibitions,

J

uly 2018

Coming UpFerrara, Palazzo del Diamanti. Courbet & la Natura. 22 Sept. 2018 to 6 Jan. 2019. 9am to 7pm daily. €13. Reservations: 0532 244949. www.palazzodiamanti.it

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27OPENING: ex-Cavallerizza & throughout Lucca, Cartasia, Biennale exhibit of open-air paper sculptures, including events such as Boxwars (Formula Uno of cardboard cars), paper airplanes, paper clothes fashion show. Until 30 Sept.

Lucca,


TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS

CINEMA

MEET-UP GROUPS & GRAPEVINE ACTIVITIES COMING UP

The Versiliacoast is offering this year CineMare at various beach clubs, with 3 themes: Woody Allen, food, kids & family.

Lucca and Beyond The films are free & subtitled in English. Films begin after sun-set & consumption (snack or more, purchased at the Beach

Lucca, Piazza San Martino. San Paolino Days: 11 July Clubs) is appreciated.Luminara (procession). 12 July Palio & crossbow competi- !Friday 6 July, Bagno La Pace, Viareggio: Mary Poppinstions honoring Lucca’s patron saint. !Tuesday 10 July, Bagno Carducci, Forte dei Marmi: Robin www.consanpaolino.com Hood

!Wednesday 11 July, Bagno America, Forte dei Marmi: AladdinLucca, Piazza San Michele, Loggiato. Extra Lucca !Friday 13 July, Bagno Bergamo e Graziano Mare, Lido di Summer Edition, 1-31 July. Sales & tastings of olive oils. Camaiore: La bella e la bestiaAssociazione Maestri d’Olio. www.extralucca.com!Monday 16 July, Bagno La Perla, Lido di Camaiore: GreaseLucca, Anfiteatro. La Grande Notte, 28 July 10pm. !Tuesday 17 July, Bagno Batigia, Lido di Camaiore: Procession of historic cars. www.lagrandenotte.comRatatouille!Saturday 21 July, Bagno la Fenice, Forte dei Marmi: Montecarlo weekends July/August: theatre, concerts, Oceaniajazz & wine, art displays. Piazza Carrara closed to traffic.!Monday 23 July, Giardini Tarabella, Comune di Forte dei Marmi, ufficio cultura: La canzone del mare!Tuesday 24 July, Bagno Il Cavallone, Lido di Camaiore: Manhattan!Thursday 26 July, Villa Orlando, Torre del Lago Puccini e Now that the good weather is guaranteed many la fanciulla in collaborazione con la Fondazione Festival towns / villages organize sagras – al fresco dining, of-Puccinianoten with bands & dancing or historic fairs with stands If you would like to join us, or have any questions, you can reach !Friday 27 July, Bagno Flora, Lido di Camaiore: Un'ottima offering local produce. Here are a few: us at: [email protected]!Matraia, 29 June to 15 July, oliva dolce.!Friday 3 August, Bagno Aretusa, Viareggio: Kubo e la !Barga, 27 July to 16 August, fish & chips (Live in Barga spada magicaFestival, second half of July).!Saturday 4 August, Bagno La Terrazza, Lido di Camaiore: !Sillicagnana (San Romano), 21 to 29 July, maccheroni.I guardiani della galassia!Altopascio, 30 June to 22 July, cacciuco (seafood soup).!Monday 6 August, Giardini Tarabella, Comune di Forte dei !Altopascio, 4 to 19 August, polenda a palle.Marmi, ufficio cultura: Oceania!Mutigliano, 6 to 22 July, rigatoni.!Tuesday 7 August, Bagno Florida, Marina di Pietrasanta: !Massa Macinaia, 7 to 29 July, polenta & fungo porcino. Lucca, outdoor summer cinema at Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. 28 Doctor Strange!Lido di Camaiore, 20 July to 5 August, local fish. June to late August, with rain dates at Cinema Moderno, Via V. !Friday 10 August, Bagno Bonaccia, Forte dei Marmi: Il !Aquilea, 3 to 12 August, soup. Emanuele II, 17 (this is subject to change). Showings are at libro della giungla 2016!Pieve Fosciana, grilled meats, 6 to 8 July. Tel. 349 2827198. 9.30pm. Tickets: 5 admissions for €20, €6 each, otherwise re-!Monday 20 August, Giardini Tarabella, Comune di Forte !Lago di Pontecosi (Pieve Fosciana), paella or home-made duced price €5. During “cinema-days” from 9 to 15 July, tickets dei Marmi: La mia vita da zucchinamaccheroni & roast beef, 7 July. Tel. 347 3606624 by Friday 6 €3. www.luccacinema.it & on Facebook & Instagram !Tuesday 21 August, Bagno Elena, Torre del Lago: Inside-July to reserve. Luccacinema. Most foreign films are dubbed. Here are the titles Out!Sant’Anastasio (Piazza al Serchio), Le Contee del Farro, 7 & in the Italian language:!Friday 24 August, Bagno La Pace, Viareggio: La sirenetta8 July. The town serves local foods while displaying traditional !28 June, La forma dell’acqua!Saturday 26 August, Pontile Bellavista Vittoria, Lido di trades/crafts of the past. !30 June, Parigi a piediCamaiore: La tartaruga rossa!Careggine, 29 July, festa of sausage by the meter. !1 July, Napoli velata

!2 July, Ella & John!3 July, I 3 manifesti a Ebbing, Missouri!4 July, Show dogs

Lake Massaciuccoli, sunset boat crossing with light meal, !5 July, Il giovane Karl Marx Ferragosto, 15 August, is a national holiday. Many areas have followed by Torre del Lago operas La Bohème (3 August) & !6 July, I segreti di Wind River celebrations. Don’t miss Camaiore’s Ferragosto Follies.Madama Butterfly (10 August). Return boat under the stars. !7 July, Cosa dirà la genteGrapevine is coordinating this trip for the 2nd year; don’t miss it! Nozzano (Lucca), The Castle Lives Again, medieval festival, !8 July, DogmanReserve early for the best seating. Deadline 16 July. €90 for first weekend in September.!9 July, Wonderdinner with wine aboard, bus, boat, & opera ticket. See page 19. !10 July, Un sogno chiamato Florida

Lucca, Guided visits sponsored by the Cathedral Museum. Tel. Contact [email protected] !11 July, Ferdinand0583 490530. See program at www.museocattedralelucca.it!12 July, Wajib

Thursday evenings 8.15pm, Grapevine conversation !13 July, Il filo nascostoMontecarlo, Calice di Stelle (Wineglasses Filled with Stars),

group at Des Arts Bistro (Piazza San Giusto 9). Come for a !14 July, Il sacrificio del cervo sacroFirst two weeks of August.

drink or dinner, English & Italian conversation. Call 333 !15 July, Lazzaro felice8617962. !16 July, Io sono tempesta Capannori, Calice di Stelle, Villa Lazzareschi, 5-6 August.

!17 July, La forma dell’acquaMonday 4pm international conversation group at Osteria San The Night of San Lorenzo, night of shooting stars. 10 August. !18 July, CocoSalvatore on the Lucca Walls near Casa del Boia. Time to go star-gazing....!19 July, La casa sul mare

!20 July, The postLido di Camaiore, Fish sagra, 9 to 23 August.Drink, Speak, and Share! conversation group on Tuesday !21 July, L’ora più brutta

evenings 9 to 11pm at T_Caffè, outside Porta San Pietro on !22 July, A casa tutti beneCamiore Film Festival. Mid-September.

Viale Regina Margherita. !23 July, Loro 1!24 July, Tonya Viareggio, Villa Borbone, Peperoncino Day. 4-5 August.

Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To !25 July, Peter Rabbitparticipate contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email The Celebration of the Volto Santo (Lucca) 13 Sept. Lucchesi !26 July, Io & Annie (Woody Allen in English with It. subtitles)[email protected] !27,28,30 July, Ocean’s 8 from around the world return home for this ceremony. The can-

dlelight procession (from San Frediano to the Duomo) with the !28 July, Arrivano I profA group for speaking ITALIAN ONLY at Bistro Piqui, Via !31 July Chiamami col tuo nome holy image takes place the night before, 12 Sept. The streets Sant’Andrea, opposite the Guinigi Tower. For people who are lit by thousands of candles. Fireworks follow.would like to practice or improve their Italian language skills. Children’s animated films are shown on Wednesdays. We meet late Thursday afternoons for 1 1/2 hours each week at Tuesdays are for Oscar winners. Thursdays are for quality a cafe within the walls of Lucca. premières. Projections will continue until 5 September. www.turismo.lucca.it is another source for events & tours.

SAGRAS

NEW: Camaiore cultural exchange: English/Italian speaking. Meetings, activities & aperitivi. Register on the website CamaioreCulturalExchange.com


re you ready to step into the comfort of your On arrival at the outdoor venue there will be time to wander chauffeured transport departing Lucca, to travel with the tiny streets of Puccini's former village, now home to the yearly us in August for Grapevine Magazine's annual boat Puccini festival.A trip across Lago Massaciuccoli, then to be enchanted Following the opera performance, we will stroll to the dock

by Puccini's La bohème (3 August) or Madama Butterfly (10 for our return crossing, just 30 minutes under the stars, to reach the August) at the Torre del Lago opera? These magnificent operas can awaiting van that will take us back to Lucca. If the sky is clear we be enjoyed at the outdoor theatre alongside the lake. Bohème or might see some shooting stars. August 10 is the Night of San Butterfly, or both, it's your choice. Lorenzo, but the celebrated celestial spectacle is visible (far from

The all-inclusive cost to Grapevine the urban glare) throughout the month. Magazine readers and guests for this magnificent

Want to join us on this magical evening?evening is 90 euro, which includes your opera Email your details to ticket, the 40-minute drive to Massaciuccoli, your

[email protected] boat with a light dinner and Full payment required by 16 July.comfortable seating – all for you to enjoy the

evening ahead. Departure from Lucca will be at 6 Tickets will sell fast for this all inclusive pm with return to Lucca around 1 am. evening, so please let us know soon if you will

Upon arriving at the lake, we will board our be joining us. See all of the dates for the Opera awaiting boat at 7.15 pm as the sun slowly sinks Festival in our What's On music calendar in this over Puccini’s former home, then glide across the magazine.lake for about an hour, to enjoy its majestic surroundings in the evening glow of the setting Note: The 1982 film The Night of the summer sun, and listen to some Puccini music as Shooting Stars, by Paolo and Vittorio Taviani, our guide describes the lake – all this of course was set in an Italian village and surrounding with drinks and tasty treats on offer. countryside in 1944.

Villa Ginori, photo by Sue Perry

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VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

Puccini and Shooting Stars

Cruciword by Helen Askham

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

A

bit of

sport

June solution

ACROSS

3 Capital of Brazil (8)

7 Penalty (6)

8 Strabismo (6)

9 Boxe (6)

10 Madre (6)

11 Neo, talpa (6)

13 Goblet (5)

15 Una volta (4)

17 Duel (6)

18 Carica o marcamento (6)

19 Armatura (6)

20 Go ---- -- on the mountain (4,2)

21 Nth (fem) (8)

DOWN

1 Fan (6)

2 Polizia (6)

3 Town in northern Italy (BG) (7)

4 Sequoia (7)

5 Collana di fiori hawaiani, she (3)

6 Own goal (8)

11 Of the world (8)

12 Guardalinee (8)

13 Colori (7)

14 Match (7)

15 Occulto (6)

16 Football (6)

Quality TranslationsEditing & Book Preparation

Consulting

Tel. 333 8617962Fax 0583 164254

email: [email protected]

EditionsGRAPEVINE

closed Sunday eveningand Monday

Via della Cervia - LUCCATel. 0583 55881

Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it

[email protected]

See

for total hair care

Shampoo and dry €17.00Cut €13.00/25.00Colour €30.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00

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We now have a barber for men.


trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.

[email protected]. 333 8617962

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A T E B I R T H D A Y SN L A A E M A

D R O O L P R E S E N TL Z P P R TE P I S O D I C C A K E

N N TA N N I E G G P L A N T

U O P P A R

G E T T A T A T A N T IU I R P A E BR E M I T T E N T E T A

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an assortment of buildings, some lovingly restored and others history professor from a private Australian boys' with colourful overhanging balcony gardens. The tweeting birds, school. We had the responsibility of showing 15 together with the calming sounds of the Arno compensated for the M teenage boys Florence in a day. The tour bus busy bus trip. It was serenely beautiful wandering these more

dropped us off at Santa Maria Novella railway station and secretive streets and alleyways of Florence.collected us four hours later, high on a hill overlooking the river My view of the opposite bank revealed the majestic sites of Arno. I was so enthused to see this magnificent city, but with 15 the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine, and the Basilica di Santo teenagers in tow, I had no chance to do anything but flex my neck Spirito. I had seen the unforgettable presepio (nativity scene) in muscles from side to side as we were whisked to admire various Santa Spirito at Christmastime and it was magical. The Basilica di major sites. When I got back on the bus, I knew I had to see Santa Maria del Carmine is worth visiting too, just by crossing the Florence at my own pace, and some 40 years and several trips Ponte Amerigo Vespucci. later, I am still ticking off all there is to see in this amazing city. On this “other” side of the Arno there are amazing restoration

While living in Lucca during the past 15 months, I have made workshops, together with designer boutiques, and of course, several trips to Florence, to continue my love affair with this lively cafes in abundance. One can stop and enjoy as many fascinating city. refreshments and delicious snacks as needed to keep fuelled. Tour

From Lucca, you can get to Florence by train or bus (both groups don't wander these cobbled alleyways, so you almost feel modes of transport take just over an hour from Lucca), and quite like a local as you stroll aimlessly.often I choose the bus. For the last few months, though, the bus Another treat is taking the “back entrance” into the Boboli has been unable to terminate at the main railway station in Gardens by Porta Romana. This gate is further south of the walls Florence, because of ongoing major tram track works in and of Florence, on the road to Siena and Rome. If you haven't around the station. For now it terminates at Leopolda train station, wandered through these gloriously manicured gardens then take a mere 15 minute walk or 5 minute tram ride to Santa Maria the time to treat yourself to a visit.Novella, the main railway station. It is also close to the Porta al If you keep walking away from the river you can take respite Prato, which is part of the remaining walls of Florence. in the serenity of the Torrigiani Gardens. Created in the 16th

Recently I decided that instead of taking the tram to Santa century, the 17 acres of natural beauty hidden in the heart of Maria Novella, I would walk. The river Arno is only a 10 minute Florence is the largest privately owned garden in Europe.stroll from the bus stop, so I walked to the riverbank and began Once you have decided on a quiet little spot for lunch, relax following the pedestrian path that heads towards the hectic Ponte and enjoy. Then if you like you can join the maddening crowds, or Vecchio, the oldest bridge over this famous river. simply retreat back to the bus stop.

It was around 9.30 am on a calm, still morning, as I wandered You only really get to enjoy these delights by living like a several of the smaller streets that run parallel to the Arno, gently local in this beautiful part of Tuscany, knowing full well that leading me into the city centre. These quiet streets are a welcome you've only scratched the surface but can return again and again to respite to the busy Florentine traffic, catering to the maddening enjoy it at leisure.crowds flocking to see as many sites as they can muster in a day.

While strolling leisurely along, I saw a plethora of hidden – by Sue Perry gems, which I thought many tourists would miss. There was such www.lovingluccaliving.com

y first trip to Florence was as an assistant to a

Serenity in Florence for a Day


Lido di Camaiore

PROPERTIES FOR SALE BY OWNER

For more information: [email protected]

San Concordio, south of town (10 minutes by foot). Top floor one-bedroom apartment with elevator. 50sqm. Large wrap-around terrace, approx. 40 sqm., with beautiful southern & eastern exposure. Near Nottolini’s acqueduct & bike path.120,000 euros, assumable mortgage (€ 5000 down + € 400 per month). (Ref. 1196)

500m from the BEACH Large home (240 sqm) with garden on 3 sides. 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. Spacious attic & downstairs rooms. 580,000 euros.(Ref. 1194)

An enchanting 18th century villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms w i t h A / C , 6 b a t h r o o m s ) , already booked b y s e a s o n a l renters for much of the summer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & forests you will find a gazebo, green-house, swimming pool, rare plants, even parrots!

3.5 million euros.C o n v e n i e n t l y located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the s e a , b e t w e e n Lucca and Pisa. Buses pass the gates hourly. . (Ref. 1197)

Lucca - San Concordio


SAN GINESE (CAPANNORI). Delightful country property that can be used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant es-tate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study + large at-tic (2 more rooms), bath, country kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with upstairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380 sqm. On a hill overlooking the Compitese vil-lages & Lago di Bientina. Approx. 4000 sqm of land (grapes/olives/forest). Cl. G IPE 255,20. € 460,000. (Ref. 1165)

Viale San Concordio, 710 - 55100 Lucca, Italy Tel: +39 0583 316636 - [email protected]

www.vannuccieassociati.it

Our membership in a Top 20 international accounting network means we can help any client set up or grow their business internationally.

mgi vannucci & associatiCHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS & TAX ADVISORS

interests, dividends, etc.) and their own investments (properties, bank accounts, financial activities, corporate shares, etc.) M abroad. As we have already emphasized in preceding articles in this magazine, a person residing in Italy should declare and pay taxes in Italy

for all earnings wherever they are produced. In fact, art. 3 of the TUIR states that taxation is applied on the overall income of a person, composed of all earnings, net of deductible fees (principle of “worldwide taxation”).

Fiscal residence in Italy is recognized when, for the main part of the year (to be precise, more than 183 days), the person satisfies at least one of the following requirements: 1) is enrolled in the Registry Office of the Town's Resident Population; 2) has established domicile in Italy; 3) has established residency in Italy.

Therefore, foreigners who satisfy at least one of the above requirements are fiscally resident in Italy and subject to all the fiscal obligations called for by Italian law. Here in synthesis are the main obligations and deadlines for the year 2018:

any foreigners decide to reside in Italy while still maintaining the source of their earnings (stipends, pensions, rental income,

The framework of the requirements for those intending to reside in Italy is therefore quite detailed and sometimes equally complicated, even more so for those who also have property abroad. We recommend that you resort to expert professionals in order to not incur errors and possible sanctions. Remember that Italian law allows you to be excused for eventual errors or violations, even from previous years, through the action of “active repentance” (ravvedimento operoso).

Fiscal Requirements for Foreigners Residing in Italy


DEADLINES OBLIGATIONS

18 June 2018 Calculation and payment of 2018 IMU (single municipal tax) and TASI (tax on indivisible services) – only in the case of ownership of properties in Italy.

2 July 2018 Calculation of taxes on earnings (wherever produced, whether in Italy or abroad) and payment of the balance of the taxes for the year 2017 and of a first payment of taxes for the year 2018 (40% of the 2017 tax balance). N.B.: the overall amount of the 2017 balance can also be paid in installments, up to a maximum of 6 monthly installments.

23 July 2018 Transmission of the 2017 “simplified” tax declaration (Form 730), where the requirements are met for being able to use this type of tax declaration.

31 October 2018 Transmission of the 2017 “ordinary” tax declaration (Earnings form PF).

31 October 2018 Transmission, together with the 2017 earnings declaration or separately if Form 730 has been presented, of the appropriate declarations where all property investments, mobile assets and financial investments held abroad (square RW) should be declared, also all foreign earnings of a financial nature (frames RM, RT).

30 November 2018 Payment of the second tax balance for the year 2018 (60% of the 2017 tax balance). N.B.: such payment should be made in one installment, with no possibility of multiple payments.

16 December 2018 Calculation and payment of the 2018 IMU (single municipal tax) and TASI (tax on indivisible services) balance – only in the case of ownership of properties in Italy.

deposit

2017

vocado? Italy? Actually many of the vegetables we associate with 'traditional Italy' come from other places, like our beloved icon the tomato, which hails from A Central America (thank you to the Aztecs). The avocado,

which originated in Mexico, is showing up more and more here in Tuscany, and it makes a welcome change from insalata mista. I asked some of my Italian neighbours what they thought of the avocado. The older ones were less enthusiastic on the whole, and as one man said, we are a conservative lot, non ci garbano le cose non If you're feeling like a little light cooking when you get off tradizionali, but we will catch on eventually. This produced great the sun lounger, horseradish latkes (which originated as poor conversations in shops and restaurants. Younger Italians love it for its people's food in eastern Europe), share an honourable position health giving properties and say how tasty it can be in salads.... One with the traditional Tuscan bean eaters' cucina povera. Agostino, Italian friend, Simonetta, makes a delicious cold pasta with avocado, our local deli man, told me a wonderful story about some more garlic, oil, tomatoes, and basil leaves. Avocados are incredibly cucina povera, which I hope will appear in a later article. nutritious. They contain more potassium than bananas and are loaded Avocado, gravadlax or smoked salmon, so easily available with heart-healthy mono-unsaturated fatty acids and fibre. My local around here, and poached eggs – this just might do the trick. restaurateurs (who are not so young) serve it Easy, prepared in 15 minutes, cooked in 15 with mayonnaise and prawns as a starter. minutes. Coarsely grate a couple of potatoes, Buonissimo! squeeze out as much liquid as you can, add two

So … summer has come! None of us, tablespoons of flour (I use chickpea flour), one young or old, are doing much cooking and this fresh egg, and two teaspoons creamed is where the avocado definitely comes into its horseradish, always a tasty thing to have in the own….You can cut one open and make a cupboard. Gently shallow fry your latkes in simple salad (I use turmeric root, garlic and rounds of approximately 10 cm on both sides, olive oil). Or you can make a simple then top with gravadlax or salmon, slices of guacamole (thank you again Mexico and the avocado and poached eggs (I am NOT going to Aztecs). What I've learned over the months of insult you by teaching you how to poach eggs!), writing Altri Tempi, Anni Fa is that we can all topped with lemon zest and a scattering of get a bit obsessed about amounts, when our chives, with a bit of salt and pepper of course. So forebears just guessed both amounts and we can open doors to new ways without cooking times. Just experiment and see what forgetting the old ways.... We can be multi-you produce. cultural as well as mono-cultural (scratch that

For guacamole, guesswork is of course one and see how multi-cultural we already are).minimal. You need one avocado – but keep the The title of this piece comes from Elaine stone. Why? Aha, that comes later.... Mash the Dundy's great novel The Dud Avocado, about a avocado and mix with a chopped tomato, young American girl let loose in Paris with chopped garlic, salt and pepper, and a bit of peperoncino. In a hilarious results. Groucho Marx loved it. Sally Gorce, pink hair household like mine in our beloved Tuscany, that hot chili taste and all, is as naive and improbably "other" as the smooth and shiny enhances everything, as every Italian knows. You can eat guacamole fruit of the novel's title. There were no avocados in Norfolk when I on toast, once you've let it stand so that the flavours meld. grew up in the 1950s, the same time that Sally was disporting

And the stone? If you stick it in the middle of your plate of herself in Paris. Carrie Bradshaw of Sex and the City then picked guacamole, it stops the mixture from going black. Who knew? up the torch, and while Elaine Dundy died in 2008, her spirit lives Nature's magic! In the U.K. there's a slight contempt for millennials on in the book.... And would you believe there are also poems who love avocado and egg on toast, but it is delicious. Again, perhaps written to this wonderful fruit, like this one from Frank Bana:the young lead the way here.

Ripeness is all. From which vantageTo view this curving orbTapered to a finely rounded waist?

Avocado in my bowlProvocative, the dark presence among The oranges that brighten up the room

I wait for you to softenA little more each day, becomingSweet and ripe and ready to consume.

So seriously, it's not so dud. They are much more available here in Tuscany now, and as people are discovering: what's not to like? Stay young!

– by Judith Edwardswww.cansurviving.com

www.judithedwards.co.uk

The not so dud Avocado


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Lucca will take place on Sunday July 8. For the artists the T day of painting will begin at 8 am in Villa Fiori Park of Ponte a Serraglio, when their canvasses will be stamped by the organizers, and will close at 4 pm when they bring their finished works to the park. The cost of participation, including a sack lunch, is € 15. Prizes range from €350 to €600, and the winning paintings become the property of Artisti & Associati.

To enjoy this relaxing and bucolic afternoon, the public may wish to arrive in time for lunch in the park at 12.30, catered by the restaurant La Lanternina. Reserve in advance at 347 564778; the cost is €15. In the afternoon, musical entertainment, fresh drinks and snacks are being provided by the cooperative #abagnidiluccabastapoco. The cost for this apericena “in hammock” is €8.

From 4pm on, the paintings will be displayed in the park for viewing by the judges and the public. This is a delightful time when everyone exchanges opinions and chooses their favorite paintings.

For Bagni di Lucca residents and their international friends, this annual event is not to be missed, especially if the weather chooses to collaborate. Still, a few cloudbursts can be ignored, especially if you bring along an umbrella. New and old friendships, fresh air by the river, relaxing in the park – a perfect day!

For more information consult www.borgodegliartisti.com or call Morena at 320 1107330.

his year's outdoor Extemporaneous Painting Day at Bagni di

Colori & Sapori,Colors & Tastes

Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy

Ref. 606: Brancoli (Lucchesia). Splendid country house & converted barn (200 sqm), small outbuild-ing with bread oven, panoramic garden. APE class G. € 395,000.

Splendid house (160sqm) in the Garfagnana near Filicaia. With barn, 2.2 hectares of

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Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through mead-ows & forest. Wheelchair access & large park-ing area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river. Energy certificate available. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 1179)

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

Il Cerchio Verde

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In the heart of Lucca, near Via Fillungo & Torre delle Ore. Beautiful, luminous 3rd floor apartment. 220 sqm. Large entrance hall, 4 bed-rooms, 2 baths, spacious kitchen from the 1500s, enormous living room, loft area with 2 rooms & laun-dry. Ceilings up to 4 meters high, floors in terracotta & tessieri, wood beam ceilings, wood panelled living room ceiling. (Ref 1184)

House renovated into 3 separate apartments in traditional style for a total of 210sqm. With forest land, garden, above-ground pool. Ideal for bed & breakfast. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1200)

In the Compitese hills near Lucca, semi-detached house from 1733. P1: dining, living, kitchen, large bath, P2: 3 bedrooms, attic. Courtyard with cantina & pizza-oven. Solar panels. Land (pool possible) nearby but not adjacent. Possibility of 2nd bathroom. €130,000. Tel. 349 7146953 (Ref. 1205)

Country house 8 km west of Lucca in a small hamlet overlooking the valley. Restored while respecting the original style. Large rooms on 3 levels: PT living room with fireplace, spacious kitchen, bedroom, bath. P1 2 bedrooms & bath. P2 spacious loft with beautiful views in all directions. Garden & pleasant terrace for outdoor dining. €320,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1201)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165.000. Tel. 348 6559698. (Ref. 1188)

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ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

Private swim lesson in your home pool. Swim instructor will travel to your pool to teach private lessons for children and adults of all age. Whether you are seeking lesson for your baby, a beginner swimmer or for advanced swimming skills. Alessia Paolini 388 8589411 (Ref. 1202)

Guided Reading and Phonics Club for native English and bilingual children aged 4 to 11. Please call or send a Whatsapp message to Deborah 338 3963041 for further information. (Ref. 1193)

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle

Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.

Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi Lovers and readers of all things Tuscan. Engage 25a, Lucca. Tel. and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ your senses, read and live the dream of the German. [email protected] you love. www.jacquelinefalcomer.com

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ONLY 14,350 genuine miles. Black, auto, satnav, all extras incl. electronic a/c Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. and 7 leather seats. Has been our holiday 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected] in Italy since new. Based in Lucca,

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) serviced by Audi Lucca. €10,000. 0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 4479061. [email protected] or mobile [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204) +393293116157 (Steve) (Ref. 1207)

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Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale Wanted: English mother tongue babysitter with car for 2 girls, ages 3 & San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 5, San Concordio (Lucca), Mondays to Fridays noon to 6pm beginning in 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, emailSeptember. Contact 347 1981579, Eleonora (Ref. 1206)[email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)

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There was a keen lad from Capannori, There was a young man from Fornaci, An old lag now living in Lucca,Who found a good job in a tannery, Who adopted the nick-name of Archie, Is firm favourite for winning the Booker,The smell of the leather, He wore shiny black boots, His one-thousand page tome,Was foul in hot weather, And Saville Row suits, “Those Dear Walls are My Home”,But far better paid than the cannery. And his collars were terribly starchy. Takes a crook's sideways look at old Lucca.

especially tricky. Here are some helpful limericks sent to us by Virginia Wooderson, a D retired English teacher from the Lucca area.

o you sometimes have problems pronouncing Italian place names? Syllable stress is

Says Virginia: “I abandoned There was an old fellow from Vorno...as it was bound to go down a rather tasteless route. I live in the Comune di Coreglia (which rhymes with regalia – inter alia – but not much else)”.

Aspiring poets and linguists, send us your verses! The best place-name limerick (and perhaps the runners-up) will be published in a future issue. Fame and glory!

Limericks

Lucca: Via per Camaiore, 2204 - 0583/343536 | Gallicano: Via G. Bartolini, 5 - 0583/74056

w w w . p a p e s c h i . i t

http://www.papeschi.it

grapevine ~ july 2018 issue · the works of fabrizio da prato, roberto giansanti, keane, giorgia...

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