CONTENTSCOVER

LISTOFRECIPESABOUTTHEBOOKABOUTTHEAUTHOR

TITLEPAGEWHATISTHEPUDDINGCLUB?THEGREATBRITISHPUDDING

OURRECIPESCOOKINGTIPS

CHAPTER1CHAMPIONPUDDINGS

CHAPTER2SCHOOL-DINNERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER3FAMILYFAVOURITES

CHAPTER4FORGOTTENPUDDINGS

CHAPTER5PUDDINGSWITHATWIST

CHAPTER6CHOCOHOLICS&NUTCASES

CHAPTER7SUMMERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER8WINTERPUDDINGS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCOPYRIGHT

LISTOFRECIPESAmodernChristmaspuddingAppleandapricotlayerpuddingAppleandcinnamonamberAppleandcustardAppleandmincemeatpuddingApplebolsterApplebrownBettyApplecharlotteAppledappyAppleflapjackApplesnowAppletartApricotandalmondpuddingsApricottansyApricotturnoversAutumnpearpudding

BakedapplespongeBakedapplesBakedapplesinblanketsBakedcustardBakedpeachesBakewellpuddingBakewelltartBananafrittersBanoffeepuddingBlackberrycharlotte

BlackberryEtonmessBlackberryExeterpuddingBlackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumbleBlackcurrantandlemonspongepuddingBlackcurrantandmintpieBloodorangepuddingsBramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddingsBreadandbutterpuddingBreadpuddingButterscotchtart

CabinetpuddingCarrotpuddingCharlotteroyaleChestnutandchocolatepuddingChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingChocolatemousseChristmaspuddingCinnamonandapplebreadpuddingCoconutricepuddingCollegepuddingCustardtart

DamsoncobblerDarkchocolatepavéDateandwalnutpuddingDuchess’spuddingDukeofCambridgetart

Elderberry,blackberryandapplepuddingEve’spudding

Figgypudding

Floatingisland

GingersyruppuddingGooseberryandalmondpuddingGooseberryandelderflowercrumbleGooseberryandelderflowerfoolGooseberryandelderflowerlayerpuddingGooseberryandorangepuddingGreengageflapjack

HazelnutrouladeHolidaypuddingHotmochapudding

JamandcoconutspongeJamrolypoly

Kentishwellpudding

LatticecherrypieLemoncurdrolypolyLemonlayerpuddingLemonmeringuepieLemonpossetLemonspongeLemonsurprisepuddingLightcloutiedumplingLimemeringuepieLordRandall’spudding

ManchesterpuddingsManchestertartMaple,walnutandbananapuddingMarbledpudding

MillenniumpuddingMincemeatrolypolyMincemeattartMulledwinejelly

Nottinghambatterpudding

OldHookyChristmaspuddingOrangeupside-downpuddingOrientalgingerpuddingOxfordpudding

PassionfruitcharlottePeachMelbaPearandgingercharlottePearandgingerupside-downpuddingPearspoachedinmulledwinePecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppuddingPineappleupside-downpuddingPlumandalmondpuddingsPlumandcinnamoncobblerPlumduffPoorknightsofWindsorPrinceAlbertpuddingPruneandchocolatepuddingPruneandmuscatpuddings

QueenofpuddingsQuinceamber

RaisingingerpuddingRaspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleRhubarbandorangebrownBetty

RhubarbcrumbleRhubarbhatRhubarbrouladeRhubarbandgingerpuddingsRicepuddingRosemarysyllabub

ScottishflummerySemolinapuddingSevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsSevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpuddingSpicedwinterfruitsaladSpicyapplelayerpuddingSpotteddickSquidgychocolatepuddingsStNick’spuddingsSteamedplumspongeStickypearpuddingStickytoffeepuddingStrawberryjamomeletteSummerpuddingSussexpondpuddingSyrupandapplespongeSyrupsponge

ThreeandthreepuddingToffeeapplepuddingTreacletartTutti-fruttipudding

VerychocolatepuddingVictoria’spudding

WalnutandapplespongepuddingWalnutandtoffeetartWhitechocolateandraspberrytrifle

AbouttheBook

Pleasebeupstanding,ladiesandgentlemen,forthegreatestpuddingsthatthisfairlandhastooffer!

Celebratingthegooiest,yummiest,sweetesttreatsthatmadeBritaingreat,thisnewcookbookletsyouinonthesecretsofthebestdessertsinthecountry.Fromsteamedsponges(chestnutandchocolatepudding)toclassiccrumbles(apple,blackberryandcinnamon),forgottencreationssuchasLordRandall’spuddingandschooldinnerfavouriteslikejamrolypoly,throughchocoholicdelightstoperfectricepuddingandvintageChristmaspudding,thisbookisagenuinepud-lover’sdelight.

With150foolproof,tried-and-testedrecipes,easyinstructionsandcolourphotographs,thisistheessentialpuddingcookbookfromtherealexperts.

AbouttheAuthor

ThePuddingClubwasfoundedattheThreeWaysHouseHotelin1985topreventthedemiseofthegreatBritishPudding,atatimewhenrestaurantsseemedtoofferonlytinyportionsoffrozencheesecakeandtastelessgateaux.TodaythePuddingClubanditssupporterscanclaimthattheireffortshavere-establishedsuchdelightsasjamrolypoly,syrupsponge,spotteddickandbreadandbutterpuddingasfavouritesthroughoutthecountry–andbeyond.

WHATISTHEPUDDINGCLUB?THEPUDDINGCLUBwasstartedintheCotswoldvillageofMickletonin1985byasmallbutdedicatedgroupofpuddinglovers.TheyweredeterminednottoletthetraditionalBritishpuddingstheylovedandcravedbecomeextinctasaresultofquick-cookconveniencefoodsandoverseasinfluences!

Intheautumnof1985thissmallbandofaficionadosjoinedtogetherforaneveningofindulgencewherethestarsincludedsevendeliciouspuddings–childhoodfavouritesliketreaclespongepuddingandjamrolypoly,whichatthattimewerenotwidelyavailable.It’shardtobelievenowbutin1985theywererarities!

ThePuddingClub’sheartfeltmissionforoveraquarterofacenturyhasbeentopreservetheGreatBritishPudding.Indeed,thishasbeenachievedonmanyrestaurantandpubmenus,andinfarmshopsandsupermarketsupanddowntheland.ThefameoftheGreatBritishPuddingisnolongerconfinedtotheseshores:ThePuddingClubhasbeenontouroverseasandhasafollowinginJapan,NorthAmerica,Belgium,theNetherlandsandIreland,amongotherplaces.InternationalvisitorscometoourlittleCotswoldvillagetoexperiencethisslightlyeccentricinstitution,andtobeabletosaythattheyhavetakenpartinaPuddingClubmeetingandevenstayedinapudding-themedbedroomtoo.Whereelsecanyousleepsurroundedbyimagesofsyrupspongeorspotteddickandcustard?

GuestsatPuddingClubmeetingsenjoyawholeevening’sentertainment,fromajovialintroductionbythePuddingMasterthroughtheParadeofSevenPuddings,withallitsnoiseandceremony,tothevoteforbestpuddingofthenight!PuddingClubmeetingshavebeenlikenedtomanythingsbutacoupleofcommentsstayinthememory:‘Likemakingloveinathunderstorm’,a‘medievalbanquetwithcustard’,andithasevenbeendescribedas‘theeighthwonderoftheworld’.VisitorstoaPuddingClubmeetingwillunderstandthattheeveningisaboutindulgence,funandbeingabitnaughtytoboot!Youtoocanjoininthefunandattendameeting(seehere).

SheilaVincentisthequeenofpudsinMickleton,andshe’snowworld-famoustooafterproducingamazingpuddingsandsevengallonsofcustardeveryFridaynightforsomanyyears!Asforthethreeofus,we’repassionateaboutpuddingsandproudtobepassingonourtreasuredrecipestoyou–wehopeyouwilleat,drinkandbemerry!

JILL,PETER&SIMON

JILL,PETER&SIMON

THEGREATBRITISHPUDDINGSteamedorbaked;layeredorrolled;scatteredwithcrumble;servedhotwithcustardorcoldwithcream–theBritishpuddingcomesincountlessshapes,sizesandstyles.Ourtraditionalpuddingshavebecomefamedtheworldover.

ThehistoryoftheBritishpuddingislongandvaried.Manyrecipescanbetracedbackthroughthecenturies,immortalisedinoldcookbooksorpasseddownfromonegenerationtothenext.Formanyofus,aparticularpuddingcanevokechildhoodmemoriesornostalgiaforthegood-olddays.Forothers,theypromisethewarmthandcomfortofhome,ofmealssharedwithlovedones,orlazySundayafternoons.

TheBritishpudiscurrentlyenjoyingamuch-deservedrevivalinpopularity,withcelebritychefsandrestaurantsfeaturingtraditionalpuddingsontheirmenus.Butwhilstsomerecipeshavebeenconstantlyrevivedandreinvented,suchasourcelebratorytriflesandfamouslemonmeringuepie,othershavebeenalmostforgotten,suchastheKentishwellpuddingorappledappy.Thisbookcelebratesthemall,combiningclassics,newtwistsandlesser-knownrecipesrescuedfromthepast.Sowhetheryou’refeedingyourfamilyorentertainingguests,splashingoutorcookingonabudget,youwillfindperfectpuddingsforeveryoccasion.

OURRECIPESThisbookisacollectionofrecipesthathavebeenservedatPuddingClubmeetingsovertheyears.From15th-centuryrecipes,toourcontemporaryMillenniumpudding,theyrepresentatimelineofpuddinghistory.Sinceourpudsarenormallymuchlarger(asweserveupto70people),eachrecipehasbeenadaptedforcookingathomeandthoroughlyupdatedtouseingredientsavailabletoday,butstillretainingwonderfultraditionalelements.Mostnotableissuet,whichthesedayshaslargelydisappearedfromBritishkitchens(asidefromitsuseindumplings),butmanyofourpuddingswouldbeunrecognisablewithoutit.Vegetablesuetisavailableinanysupermarket,whilstfreshbeefsuetcanbeboughtfrommostbutchersandisveryeconomical.Wealsoencourageyoutoseekoutsomeofthelesser-usedseasonalBritishfruits,suchasdamsons,gooseberries,rhubarbandquince–itwasforthesetraditionalfruitsthatmanypuddingsweredevised,andwethinktheydeservetobeenjoyedasoriginallyintended.

COOKINGTIPSBecausemanypuddingrecipesareprepared,assembledandcookedinsimilarways,anumberofinstructionscropupagainandagainintherecipesthroughoutthisbook.Thissectionoutlinessomeofthemostcommonlyusedequipmentandtechniques.

PUDDINGBASINSAbookonBritishpuddingswouldn’tbecompletewithoutthearchetypalsteamedvariety,withitsiconicbasinshape.TheseareamongtheoldestdomesticBritishpuddings–untilthe19thcentury,veryfewkitchenshadovens,sofoodhadtobeboiledorsteamed.Therearetwotypesofsteamedpud:thesponge-basedpudding,madelikeabatterandpouredintoagreasedbasin,andthosethatrequiresuetpastry,whichisusedtolinethebasin,producingacrumblyoutercrustanddenseinterior.

Inthisbookwegenerallyusea1.1litre(2-pint)basin.Veryoccasionallywespecifya1.5-litre(2½-pint),1.7-litre(3-pint)or2.3-litre(4-pint)basin.Someofourrecipesrequireindividual200ml(7floz)basins.Ifyoudon’thavethenecessarysize,feelfreetoimprovisebydividingyouringredientsbetweensmallerbasinsorbymultiplyingtheingredientstofitalargerone,butneverfillthebasinmorethantwo-thirdsfull.(Ifyoudon’thaveapuddingbasin,youcanusearegularbowl,butdomakesureit’sheatproofandheavy-dutyasitwillneedtowithstandseveralhourssubmergedinahotpanofwater.)Rememberthatadjustingthebasinsizewillalsoaffectthecookingtime,socheckthepuddingtodeterminewhetherit’sproperlycooked.

LININGABASINWITHPASTRYDividethesuetpastryintotwothirdsandonethirdandsetthesmallerpieceaside.Greasethepuddingbasinwithbutteranddustyourworksurfacewithflour.Rolloutthelargerpieceofdoughintoaroughcircleandpositionitinside

flour.Rolloutthelargerpieceofdoughintoaroughcircleandpositionitinsidethegreasedbasin,pressingitsnuglyagainsttheedges.Addtheotheringredientstothepuddingasdirectedintherecipe,thenrolloutthesmallerpieceofdough,wettheedges,andplaceontop,pushingdowngentlyattheedgessothatthetwopiecesofpastrysticktoeachother.

Analternativeliningmethodistorolloutthewholepieceofdoughintoacircle,thencutawayaquartertosaveforthelid.Placethelargerpieceinsidethebasin,bringthetwocutedgestogetherandpressthemtojoin.Onceyou’vefilledthepudding,re-rollthereservedpastryintoacirclethatwillfitontopandadherebywettingtheedgeswithwaterandpushingdown,asdescribedabove.

COVERINGABASINBeforesteaming,yourbasinneedstobeproperlysealed,sothatnowatercangetinsideandmakethepuddingsoggy.Nowadays,manypuddingbasinscanbeboughtwithlids.Thesebasinsareoftenplastic.However,ifyou’reusingatraditionalceramicbasinoranyotherbowl,it’sunlikelytohaveitsownlid,soyou’llneedtocoverthebasinwithfoiland/orgreaseproofpaper.Ideally,usetwolayers:oneofgreaseproofandoneoffoil.(However,don’tworryifyouonlyhaveoneortheother;simplyuseadoublelayerofwhateverisavailable.)Cutalargesquareofeachandlayoneontopoftheother.Withthetwoheldtogether,foldapleatdownthecentretoallowspaceforthepuddingtorise.

Putthecoveringoverthebasin,positioningthegreaseproofnearesttothepudding,thefoiloutermostandthepleatacrossthecentre,andfoldtheedgesdownaroundthebasin.Securewithstring,tiedjustundertherimofthebasin,tomakethecoverwatertight.Alsotiealoopofstringthatyoucanuseasahandletolowerthebasininandoutofthepan.Trimoffanyexcessfoil/greaseproof.

STEAMINGAPUDDINGThemostbasicwaytosteamapuddingisoverapanofsimmeringwater.Ifyouhaveasteamerpanwithtiersthatstackontopofeachother,thisisideal.Otherwise,usealarge,deepsaucepanwithalid.Thepuddingbasinmustn’tdirectlytouchthebottomofthepanoritwillburn,soyou’llneedtoraiseitonatrivet–youcanuseanupturnedsaucer,ramekinorscrunched-updiscoffoilfor

trivet–youcanuseanupturnedsaucer,ramekinorscrunched-updiscoffoilforthis.

Pourenoughwaterintothepansothatitwillreachjustoverhalfwayupthesidesofthebasin,thenlowerthebasinontothetrivetandcoverthepanwithatight-fittinglid.Bringthewatertoasteadysimmerandsteamthepuddingfortheallottedtime.Trytokeepthewaterataroundthesamelevelthroughout–checkregularlyandtopupwithboilingwaterfromthekettleifitlookslow(neveraddcoldwater).Don’tbetemptedtounwrapthepuddinguntilit’snearingtheendofitscookingtimeoritmaysink.

Whenready,usethestringhandletoraisethebasinoutofthepan.Cutthestringandunwrapthepudding.Whencooked,thepuddingshouldbefirmtothetouchandaskewerinsertedintothecentreshouldcomeoutcleanly.Ifit’snotready,you’llneedtore-coverthepuddingandsteamforalittlelonger.

It’salsopossibletosteampuddingsinanelectricsteamerandeveninapressurecooker.Someovensnowcomewithasteamerfunction.Alwaysrefertothemanufacturer’sinstructionsforadviceandbepreparedthatthecookingtimemayvaryfromwhat’sstatedintherecipe–besuretocheckthepuddingwithaskewerasdescribedabove.

Toremoveapuddingfromitsbasinoncecooked,runasharpknifearoundtheedges,placeaservingplateupsidedownontopofthebasinandinvertthepuddingontotheplate.

BASICSHORTCRUSTPASTRYShortcrustpastryformsthebaseofsomanydelicioustartsandpies.It’sbesthandledaslittleaspossible,somakingitinafoodprocessorispreferable,thoughinstructionsarealsogivenformakingbyhand.Ensurethepastryisrolledoutthinly,andthesequantitieswillfitthetinsspecified,withasmallamountleftoverthatyoucanuseformakingdecorations,orstoreinthefridgeorfreezerforanotheruse.

Ifyoupreferasweeterpastry,thesaltcanbereplacedwithapinchofsugar,butbearinmindthatthismakesthepastrycrumblierandtrickiertoworkwith.Youcanalsoadaptthepastrybyaddinggratedlemonororangezest,apinchofcocoapowderorevenseedsfromavanillapod.Alwaysbesparing,tokeeptheflavourssubtle.

Linesa20–22cm(8–9in)tarttin(makes225g/8oz)

130g(4½oz)plainflourPinchofsalt65g(2½oz)unsaltedbutter,chilledIcedwater

Linesa30cm(12in)tarttin(makes375g/13oz)210g(7½oz)plainflourPinchofsalt110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,chilledIcedwater

SIFTTHEFLOURANDSALTintoafoodprocessor(orseebelowformakingbyhand).Cutthecoldbutterintosmallpiecesanddropinontop.Processfor20–30seconds,thenaddice-coldwater,atablespoonatatime,withthemachinestillrunning.Youshouldneed2–3spoonfuls.

IFTHEMIXTUREISSTILLcrumblyafteraminuteortwo,addanothertablespoonofwater,butbearinmindthatthemorewateryouadd,themorethepastrywillshrinkwhenblindbaked(addingcreamoreggyolkinsteadofwaterisasolutiontothis).Oncethepastryhascometogetherintoaball,stoptheprocessor,removethedoughandwrapinclingfilm.Leaveinthefridgeforatleast30minutesbeforerollingout.

TOMAKETHEPASTRYbyhand,sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowlthenaddthechoppedbutterandworkasquicklyasyoucantorubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertips.Addwaterasabove,thenwrapinclingfilmandchillinthefridgefor30minutes.

DUSTYOURWORKSURFACE,rollingpinandhandswithflour,thenstartrolling–alwaysawayfromyou,turningthepastryasyougo.Keeptherollingpinandworksurfaceflouredtopreventsticking.Oncerolledout,sliptherollingpinunderthetopthirdofthepastryandpickitupandlayoveryourgreasedtinordish.Neverstretchitasitwilljustshrinkback.Trytochilltheunbakedpastrycaseinthefridgeforatleast30minutesbeforeuse.Dependingonthepuddingrecipeyouarefollowing,youmayneedtoblindbakethepastrycase(seehere)

beforefillingit.

LININGATARTTINWhetheryou’vemadethepastryfromscratchorareusingstore-bought,itshouldbechilledbeforeyoubegin.Dustacleanworksurfacewithflourandgentlyrolloutthechilledpastry,rollingawayfromyourselfandturningthepastryatintervalstokeepitroughlycircular.Rolluntilthepastryislargerthanthediameterofthetarttinandaround5mm(¼in)inthickness.Tocheckitislargeenough,placethetarttingentlyontopandensurethereisenoughexcessallthewayaroundtosufficientlylinethesides.

Thoroughlygreasethetin(ifit’sfluted,apastrybrushcanbehelpfulforgreasingintothecreases).Placeyourrollingpinontopoftherolled-outpastryandlooselyrollituparoundthepin.Liftthepinup,positionitabovethetinandunrollthepastryintoplace.Ensureitiscentral,withthesameamountofexcessallthewayround.

Gentlyeasethepastryintothebaseandsidesofthetin,beingcarefulnottotearordentitwithyourfingertips.Trimanyexcessfromtheedgeswithasharpknife,allowingalittlebitofextratoaccountforanyshrinking.Prickthebaseofthepastrywithaforkandchillthepastrycaseinthefridgeforupto30minutes–thishelpstoreduceshrinkage.Oncechilled,eitherblindbake(seehere)orfillimmediately,dependingonthepuddingrecipeyouarefollowing.

BLINDBAKING‘Blindbaking’istheprocessofbakinganemptytartorpiecasebeforeitisfilled.Itensuresthatthebaseofthepastryiscrispandcookedthroughandisn’tmadesoggybytheadditionofthefilling.Asdirectedabove,thecaseshouldbeprickedwithaforkandchilledforupto30minutesbeforeblindbaking.

Preheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5.Cutacircleofgreaseproofpaperorbakingparchmentandplaceitinsidethepastrycase.Fillwithbakingbeans(youcanuseuncookedriceorlentilsasanalternative),spreadingthemouttoevenlycoverthebase.Bakeintheovenforabout15minutesuntiltheedgesarelightlybrowned.Removethebakingbeansandpaperandputbackintheovenfor10minutesuntilthebaseiscooked.Allowtocoolandthenfillthecaseasrequired.

CHAMPIONPUDDINGS

CHAPTER1

AtPuddingClubmeetings,weserveupsevendifferentpuddings.Onceguestshavebeengiventheopportunitytotrythemall(andevencomebackforseconds!),theyareaskedtovotefortheirfavourite.

Thepuddingwiththemostvotesiscrownedthechampion.

Thesevenpuddingsinthischapteraretheonesthathavebeenvotedchampiononthemostoccasions.Anirresistibleline-upofBritish

classics,theydemonstratehowwonderfullyvariedoursweetfarecanbe.Fromindulgentstickytoffeetorefreshingsummerpudding,thereissomethinghereforeveryone,whetheryoupreferyourpudhotorcold;steamedorbaked;spongyorcrisp;creamy,syrupyorfruity…

ChampionPuddings

BreadandbutterpuddingGingersyruppuddingStickytoffeepuddingSyrupspongeRhubarbcrumbleSummerpuddingPassionfruitcharlotte

BreadandbutterpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

120g(4oz)sultanas1tbspbrandy(optional)120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremovedFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarGroundcinnamonornutmeg,tosprinkleCustard,toserve(optional)

IFYOUWANTTOSOAKthesultanasinbrandy,putthemtogetherinabowlandleavetosoakforupto30minutes.Greasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

BUTTERTHEBREADSLICESononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthegreaseddishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup,andsprinklewithhalftheorangejuiceandgratedzest.Addhalfthesultanas,followedbyanotherlayerofbread,thentheremainingsultanas,juiceandzest.Finishwiththeremainingbread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELL,mixwiththemilkandsugar,andpourthismixtureoverthepudding.Sprinklewithcinnamonornutmegandleavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakethepuddingfor30minutesoruntilset.Servehot,onitsownorwithcustard.

Theearliestknownrecipeforthismuch-lovedpuddingdatesfrom1723.Squidgyunderneathandcrispontop,theeternalquestioniswhattoservewithit:someswearbycustard,othersprefercream,whilstmanyfirmlybelievethatit’smoist

enoughtoneednosauceatall.

GingersyruppuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

4eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour1½tbspgroundginger40g(1½oz)choppedstemginger,plussyrupfromthejar150g(5oz)goldensyrupCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeateneggstothecreamedmixture,stirringaftereachaddition–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.

SIFTTHEREMAININGFLOURintoaseparatebowltogetherwiththegroundginger,thengraduallyfoldthemintothecreamedmixture,alongwithasmallamountofsyrupfromthestemgingerjar.Mixwelltoincorporate.

POURTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedbasinandaddthechoppedstemginger.Spoonthespongemixtureontop.Sealthebasinwithalidorfoilandsteamforapproximately2hours,untilthepuddingisfirmtothetouch.Turnoutontoaservingplateandservewithcustard.

Apuddingofcontrasts,thisfeelsasBritishastheycome,butit’seasytoforgetthatgingerwasoriginallyimportedfromAsia.Thespongehasallthesweetnessofchildhoodfare,butwithagrown-uptangfromthecombinationofstem

ginger,groundgingerandgingersyrup.

StickytoffeepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

100g(3½oz)choppeddates1tspvanillaessence

1tspbicarbonateofsoda60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing170g(6oz)softlightbrownsugar

1egg225g(8oz)plainflour1tspbakingpowderCustard,toserveForthetoffeesauce4½tbspdoublecream15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugar

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthetoffeesauceingredientsinasaucepanandmelttogetheroveralowheat,thenpourintothegreasedbasinandsetaside.

MIXTHECHOPPEDDATES,vanillaessenceandbicarbonateofsodawith550ml(19floz)water.Inaseparatelargebowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thengraduallybeatintheegg.

SIFTTHEFLOURANDBAKINGPOWDERtogether,thenaddtothecreamedmixtureinsmallamounts,alternatingwithadditionsofthedatemixture,stirringeachtimetocombine.

POURTHEMIXTUREoverthetoffeesauceinthepuddingbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Notasoldasyoumightthink,thismodernclassichasonlybeenincirculationsincethe1970s.Evenso,itsoriginsarelostalready,withchefsintheLakeDistrict,Lancashire,AberdeenandthesouthofEnglandallclaimingtohaveinventedit.(Thisinitselfshowstheloveforstickytoffeepudupanddownournation!).ItwasGaryRhodes’sfavouritewhenhevisitedThePuddingClub,and

wasrecentlyrevealedasKateMiddleton’sall-timetoppudding.

SyrupspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(4oz)castersugar200g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted3eggs,beatenwith1tspvanillaessence

3tbspgoldensyrupCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Stirinthesiftedflouralittleatatime,alternatingwithadditionsofthebeateneggsandvanilla,andbeatingthemixturewellaftereachaddition.

PUTTHEGOLDENSYRUPinthebaseofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thispuddingisknowntomanyastreaclesponge,despitethefactthatitcontainsnotreacle!Whatdoyoucallit…?WecallitPrideofThePudding

Club!

RhubarbcrumbleCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

1tspvanillaessence700g(1½lb)freshrhubarb,washedandcutinto3cm(1in)pieces2–3tspcastersugar

Custardorcream,toserveSIFTTHEFLOURINTOALARGEBOWL,addthedemerarasugarandmixwell.Addthebutter,margarineandvanillaessenceandmixtoafinecrumbconsistencywithyourfingertips.Placeinthefridgetochill.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Mixtherhubarbandcastersugartogetherandplaceinthebaseofadeep,oval,ovenproofbakingdish,approx.30×20cm(12×8in).

COVERTHERHUBARBwiththechilledcrumbletoppingandfirmdownthetopalittle.Cookintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Whatcouldbemoreclassicandcomfortingthanawarmfruitcrumble?OurchampionversionmakesuseofbeautifulBritishrhubarb.TheforcedvarietyisfamouslygrownintheYorkshiretriangle,anine-square-mileareainthenorthofEngland,whereitiscultivatedindarkshedsandharvestedbycandlelight

earlyintheyear,whilsttheflavourfuloutdoorrhubarbcomesintoseasoninlatespring.

Summerpudding

SETTINGTIMEONLYSERVES4–6

720g(1lb9oz)mixedsoftsummerfruits,suchasraspberries,strawberries,red-andblackcurrants1tbspcrèmedecassis

Castersugar,totasteButter,forgreasing6–8thickslicesofday-oldwhitebread,crustsremovedPouringorwhippedcream,toservePUTTHEMIXEDFRUITSinasaucepanwiththecrèmedecassis,asprinklingofsugarandaverysmallamountofwater.Simmergentlyfor3–4minutestodissolvethesugaranduntilthefruitissoftbutstillholdingitsshape,thenremovefromtheheat.

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcompletelylinewithmostofthebread,cuttingittofit.Pourinthefruitandcoverwiththeremainingbreadtosealthepudding.

PLACEASMALLPLATEontopofthebreadandstandaheavyweightonitsothatthepuddingispresseddown.Thiswillensurethejuiceisabsorbed,turningthebreadawonderful,richcolour.Allowtosetinthefridgeforaminimumof8hoursorovernight.Turnoutcarefullyandservewithcream.

Aclassicsummerdelight.ThisfruitypuddingissaidtohavestartedlifeinVictorianspasandnursinghomes,whereitwasservedtopatientsasan

alternativetoheavypastryorsuettreats.Ittastesdifferenteverytime,asthecombinationoffruitsdependsontheseasonandtheproportionsused.

WHYNOTTRY…?Crèmedemûre(blackberryliqueur)makesanicealternativetocassis.

PassionfruitcharlotteSETTINGTIMEONLY

SERVES4–6

2Swissrolls(store-boughtorseehere),thinlysliced12ripepassionfruit

3gelatineleaves375g(13oz)doublecreamExtracream,toserve(optional)

LINEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinorsoufflédishwithclingfilm.UsetheslicesofSwissrolltolinethesidesandbottomofthedish.

HALVE10OFTHEPASSIONFRUIT,scrapeoutthefleshintoablenderandblitztoapurée.Pushthroughasievetoremovetheblackpips.

SOAKTHEGELATINEinasmallbowlofcoldwateruntilsoft.Meanwhile,whipthecreaminalargebowluntilitformssoftpeaks.Removethesoftenedgelatinefromthewaterandcarefullystiritintothewhippedcream,alongwiththepassionfruitpurée.

HALVETHETWOREMAININGPASSIONFRUITandscrapeoutthefleshintothemixture.Stirgentlyuntileverythingisincorporated.Pourthemixtureintothesponge-lineddishandleaveinthefridgetosetfor2hoursorovernight.CarefullyturnouttheCharlotteontoaplateandremovetheclingfilm.Serveonitsownorwithalittlecream.

ThisisourmostpopularcoldpuddingatThePuddingClub.Thezinginessofpassionfruitcutsperfectlythroughtherichcream,makingthispuddingasurprisingdelight.UncookedcharlotteslikethisarerelatedtoElizabethan

trifles,althoughthisversionisanewertwist,aspassionfruitswereintroducedtotheUKinthe19thcentury.

SCHOOL-DINNERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER2

AftertheSecondWorldWar,itwasmadecompulsoryforBritishschoolstoservecookedmealstotheirpupils,andthiswouldnormally

includeapudding.Certainpudswerefavouredbydinnerladiesbecausetheywerelow-costandeasytocookinlargequantitiesforcrowdsofhungryschoolchildren,andsotreatssuchasjamrolypoly,ricepuddingandtreacletartbecamearegularfeatureofschooldinnerhallsupanddownthecountry.Manyoftherecipesinthischapterwillberememberedfondlybythosewhodevouredthemaskids.Theywillfillyouwithwarmthandnostalgiaforchildhoodanddaysgoneby.

School-DinnerPuddings

RicepuddingSemolinapuddingSpotteddickBreadpuddingCustardtartBakedcustardBakedapplespongeEve’spuddingAppleandcustardApplesnowQueenofpuddingsJamrolypolyDamsoncobblerJamandcoconutspongeBananafrittersManchestertartPineappleupside-downpuddingTreacletart

RicepuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4

65g(2½oz)roundpuddingrice1.2litres(2pints)creamyfull-fatmilk25g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces50g(2oz)castersugarPinchofgroundnutmegJam,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO140°C(275°F),GasMark1.Putthericeintoashallowpiedish,pouroverhalfthemilkandstirinthebutterandsugar.Bakefor1hour.

STIRINTHEREMAININGMILKandcontinuetocookforanotherhour.Stiragain,sprinklewithnutmegandcookforafurtherhour.Servewithaspoonfulofjam.

SemolinapuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES4

750ml(1pint6floz)milk100g(3½oz)semolina½tspgroundcinnamon,plusextraforsprinkling30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggyolksJamorhoney,toserve(optional)

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andthoroughlygreaseashallow,ovenproofbakingdish.Pourthemilkintoasaucepanandheatuntilhotbutnotboiling.

REMOVETHEPANFROMTHEHEATandslowlyaddthesemolina,whiskingallthetimewithaballoonwhisktoavoidlumps.Returnthepantotheheatandbringslowlytotheboil,stirringconstantlysothatthemixtureremainssmooth.

REMOVEFROMTHEHEAT,stirinthecinnamon,butter,sugarandeggyolksandmixwell.Pourintothegreaseddishandsprinklewithalittlemoregroundcinnamon.Bakeintheovenfor35–40minutes.Servethepuddingonitsownorwithagenerousspoonfulofjamorhoney.

SpotteddickCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)vegetablesuet30g(1oz)castersugar240g(8½oz)currantsorraisins,soakedinbrandy,thendrainedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttogethertheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuet,sugaranddraineddriedfruit.Mixwithupto150ml(5floz)coldwater–enoughtobringtheingredientstogetherintoafirmdough.

PUSHTHEDOUGHintothegreasedbasinandcoversecurelywithalidorfoil.Steamthepuddingfor2hours,thenturnoutontoahotplateandservewithcustard.

WHYNOTTRY…?Ifyouwanttomakethispuddinginthetraditionalshapeinsteadofusingabasin,formthemixtureintoacylinderabout20cm(8in)long,androllina

puddingcloth,beforesteamingfor2hours.

We’reaskedaboutthenameofthispuddingmorethananyother.Whilethespotsareself-explanatory,theword‘dick’isthoughttoderivefrom‘dough’or‘duff’(asstillusedinplumduff).It’salsosometimesknownasspotteddog,and

hasevenbeenreferredtoasablemishedRichard!

BreadpuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6–8

8medium-thicknessslicesofbread(from1largeloaf)300ml(11floz)milk300g(11oz)mixeddriedfruit50g(2oz)choppedmixedpeel1eatingapple2tbspdarkorangemarmalade

3tbspsoftdarkbrownsugar40g(1½oz)self-raisingflour2eggs,beatenSqueezeoflemonjuice

1tspgroundcinnamon100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedEggcustard(seehere)oricingsugar,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3andgreasea28×20cm(11×8in)roastingtin.Breakupthebread,includingthecrusts,andsoakinthemilkuntilsoft.

BEATTHESOAKEDBREADWELLwithaforksothatitbecomesasoft,creamymixture.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthedriedfruitandmixedpeel.Grateintheunpeeledappleandstirinthemarmalade,sugar,flour,eggs,lemonjuiceandcinnamon.

POURHALFOFTHEMELTEDBUTTERintothemixture,beatwellandpourintothegreasedtin.Pourtheremainingbutterinathinstreamontothesurface.Bakefor1½hours(checkregularlyandcoverwithfoilorgreaseproofpaperifbrowningtooquickly).Thenturnuptheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F),GasMark4andbakeforanother30minutes.

SERVEHOT,cutintosquares,witheggcustard.Alternatively,allowtocool,then

sprinklethicklywithicingsugarandslicetoeatcoldasacake.

CustardtartCOOKINGTIME50MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)300ml(11floz)singlecreamorcreamyfull-fatmilk

2eggs,plus1eggyolk25g(1oz)castersugarGroundnutmeg,tosprinkleCreamandfreshraspberriesorseasonalfruit,toserveGREASEALOOSE-BOTTOMED20CM(8in)tarttinandlinewiththepastry(seehere).Chillfor30minutesinthefridge,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandturndownthetemperatureto170°C(325°F),GasMark3.

MEANWHILE,PUTTHECREAMormilkintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Beattheeggs,eggyolkandsugartogetherinabowlandthengraduallywhiskintheheatedcreamormilk.

STRAININTOTHECOOKEDPASTRYCASEandsprinklewithnutmeg.Bakeintheovenfor35minutesuntilthecustardisset.Thetartwillbecomefirmerasitbecomescoldbutisbesteatenstillslightlywarm.Servewithcreamandfreshraspberriesoryourchoiceoffreshfruit.

Britainhasalonghistoryofcustardsandcreams,datingbacktomedievaltimes.Theywereoftenservedalone,bakedinindividualcupsandsometimesflavouredwithfruitpurées.Custardalsodevelopedintoafillingforpiesandtarts,ashere,andeventuallyintotheclassicsauceforaccompanyingother

desserts.

BakedcustardCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing600ml(1pint)singlecream1vanillapod,splitinhalf

3eggs50g(2oz)castersugarPinchofgroundnutmeg

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Lightlygreaseanovenproofbakingdishorstraight-sidedsoufflédish,900ml–1.1litres(1½–2pints)capacity.Putthecreamandsplitvanillapodinasaucepanandheatuntiljustatboilingpoint,thenremovefromtheheat.

INALARGEBOWL,beattheeggslightlywiththesugar.Removethevanillapodfromthesaucepanandpourthecreamontothebeateneggs,whiskingthoroughly.Strainintothegreaseddishandsprinklewiththenutmeg.

SITTHEBAKINGDISHinaroastingtinandpourboilingwaterintothetin,uptothelevelofthemixtureinsidethedish.Bakeintheovenfor1hour.Servehotorcold.

VariationsBakedcoffeecustardOmitthevanillapodandinsteadflavourthecreamwith2tablespoonsofcoffeeessenceorstrongblackcoffee.Alsoomitthenutmeg.

BakedchocolatecustardAdd50g(2oz)choppeddarkchocolatetothecreamandvanillapodbeforeheating.Stirwhileheating,toensureitmeltsandbecomesincorporated.Omitthenutmeg.

BakedapplespongeCOOKINGTIME35MINUTES

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)demerarasugar

3eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,sifted

2mediumcookingapples,peeled,coredandchopped

Custardorcream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallymixinthebeateneggs,alongwithalittleoftheflour,thenfoldintheremainingflourandthechoppedapple.

SPOONINTOTHEGREASEDDISHandbakefor15minutes,thenreducetheheatto180°C(350°F),GasMark4andcontinuetobakeforanother20minutes.Servehotwithcustardorcream.

Eve’spuddingCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)cookingapples,peeled,coredandchoppedcoarsely75g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar,plusextraforsprinkling

2eggs100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour,siftedGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon¼tspvanillaessence

Creamorcustard,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.5-litre(2½-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Puttheapplesintothebakingdishandsprinklewiththebrownsugar;mixtogetherlightly.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenworkintheeggs,siftedflour,lemonzestandvanillaessenceandmixtoasoftbatter.Spreadthisovertheapplesinthedishandbakefor40minutes.Removefromtheovenandsprinklethesurfacewithcastersugar.Serveimmediatelywithcreamorcustard.

AppleandcustardCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES6

1kg(2lb2oz)Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandsliced

3tbsphoneyFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonFortheeggcustard600ml(1pint)milk6eggs,separated

75g(3oz)castersugarPLACETHEAPPLES,honeyandlemonzestintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveralowheatuntiltheapplesarejusttender.Removefromtheheatandpuréetheapplemixturewithahandblender,thenpourintoa2.3-litre(4-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

TOMAKETHEEGGCUSTARD,warmthemilkinasaucepan.Beattogethertheeggyolksand50g(2oz)ofthesugarinaheatproofbowl,thenpourinthewarmedmilk,stirringwell.Placethebowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,beingcarefulnottoletthebowlactuallytouchthewater.Stiruntilthecustardhasthickened;thiswilltakearound10minutes.Pourthecustardovertheapplepuréeinthebakingdish.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thenfoldintheremaining25g(1oz)ofsugarwithametalspoon.Pilethemeringueoverthecustard,spreadingitrighttotheedgesofthedish.Bakeintheovenfor30minutes,untilthemeringueisgoldenbrown.

ApplesnowCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4

450g(1lb)cookingapples(preferablyBramley),peeled,coredandsliced75g(3oz)castersugar

Gratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon

2eggwhitesSmall,sweetbiscuits,toserve

PUTTHESLICEDAPPLES,sugar,lemonzestandjuiceintoasaucepan.Simmeroveralowheat,stirringoften,untiltheappleshavebecomeasoft,thickpuréeandthereisnosurplusliquidleftinthepan.Pushtheapplemixturethoughafinesieveorprocesswithahandblenderuntillightandfluffy.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenfoldintheapplepuréewithametalspoon.Spoonintoglassesandchill.Servewithsmall,sweetbiscuits.

AfavouriteinElizabethankitchens,cookswouldoftenstickasprigofrosemaryinthetopofthispuddingtoresembleasnow-coveredtree.Bramleyapplesareideal,oruseasimilarvarietythathasatartflavourandbecomeslightandfluffy

whencooked.

QueenofpuddingsCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)breadcrumbsFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemon150g(5oz)castersugar600ml(1pint)milk

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing½tspvanillaessence

4eggs,separated100g(3½oz)strawberryorraspberryjam

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)piedish.Putthebreadcrumbs,lemonzestand30g(1oz)ofthesugarintoamixingbowl.

COMBINETHEMILK,butterandvanillaessenceinasaucepanandwarmgentlyuntilthebutterhasmelted,thenpouroverthebreadcrumbmix.Leavethemixturetostandfor10minutesthenbeatintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintothegreasedpiedishandbakefor20–30minutesuntilwellset.Leavetheoventurnedon.

WARMTHEJAMinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,thenspreaditgenerouslyoverthepudding.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Foldintheremaining120g(4oz)ofsugarwithametalspoon.Spreadthemeringueoverthepuddingandplacebackintheovenforabout10minutesuntilthemeringueiscrispandlightlybrown.

ThroughouttheagesinBritain,breadwasalwaysconsideredavaluablecommoditythatshouldnevergotowaste,sothispuddingstartedlifeasawaytouseuppreciousbreadcrumbs.Andthename?Whilethe‘crown’ofmeringueiscertainlyveryregal,it’salsosaidthatQueenVictoriawasknowntoenjoyahelpingortwo.HereatThePuddingClub,wehaveourveryownqueenofpuddings–SheilaVincent–whohasbeenmakingalloursweetstufffor16

years.

JamrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetMilk,tomix450g(1lb)raspberryjam

1tbspcastersugarCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwithenoughmilktomakeadough.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthedoughtoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththejam.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACEINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,withonesideofthetinraisedsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventtherolypolyfromunravelling.Bakefor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapthepuddinginfoiltoholditsshapeandcoverinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklethepuddingwithcastersugarandservewithcustard.

HugelypopularinVictorianBritain,thisfamouspuddingevenfeaturesinthewritingofCharlesDickens(inBleakHouse)andBeatrixPotter(inherTaleofSamuelWhiskers).Traditionally,therolypolywouldhavebeenboiledinapuddingcloth;buttheskillofwrappingapuddinglikethisisnowalmostforgotten.AtPuddingClubmeetings,onlyspotteddickgetsabiggercheer.

JamandcoconutspongeCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

3tbspblackcurrantjam200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar200g(7oz)self-raisingflozur,sifted60g(2oz)desiccatedcoconut3eggs,beaten

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthejaminthebottomofthebasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.

ADDTHESIFTEDFLOURtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alongwithgradualadditionsofthedesiccatedcoconutandbeatenegg,mixingwelleachtime.Pourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthejaminthebasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Anyred-fruitjamisgood,butusethebest-qualityyoucanfind–home-madeisbest.

BananafrittersCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES6

200g(7oz)self-raisingflour

1tbspbakingpowder30g(1oz)goldencastersugar,plusextrafordusting1egg,beaten300ml(11floz)milkGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon½tspgroundnutmeg

6bananasVegetableorsunfloweroil,fordeep-fryingIcecream,toserve

TOPREPARETHEBATTER,combinetheflour,bakingpowderandsugarinamixingbowl.Graduallyaddtheeggandmilkandwhisktoformasmoothbatter.Setasidetorestforupto1hour,thenmixthelemonzestandnutmegintotherestedbatter.

PEELTHEBANANASandcuttheminhalf.Inadeep,heavy-basedsaucepan,heatenoughoiltosubmergethebananahalves.Tochecktheoilisattherighttemperature,dropinasmallpieceofbreadtoseewhetheritsizzlesandbrowns.Whentheoilishotenough,dipthebananapiecesintothebatteranddeep-fryuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainbrieflyonkitchenpaper.Dustthefritterswithalittlecastersugarandservewithicecream.

ManchestertartCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled3tbspgood-qualityraspberryjam3tbspdesiccatedorflakedcoconut2tbspcustardpowder

2tbspcastersugar600ml(1pint)milkCream,toserve

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,thenuseittolinea20cm(8in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratethelineddishfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsettoasidetocool.

WHENCOOL,spreadthepastrycasewiththejamandsprinklewithhalfthecoconut.Inamediumbowl,mixthecustardpowderandsugarwithalittlecoldmilktoformapaste.Heattheremainingmilkgentlyinasaucepan,pourontothecustardpasteandwhisktocombine,thenreturnthemixturetothesaucepanandbringtotheboiltothicken.

POURTHECUSTARDoverthejaminthepastrycase,sprinklewiththeremainingcoconutandleavetosetinthefridge.Servecold,withalittlecream.

Manywillrememberthispuddingfondly,asafeatureofschool-dinnermenusfromthe1950sonwards.Withitspastrybase,hiddenlayerofjam,creamy

custardandgenerouscoconuttopping,it’sconsideredasimpler,moremodernvariationonthetraditionalManchesterpudding(seehere).

Pineappleupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME50–60MINUTES

SERVES4–6

2heapedtbspgoldensyrup1×400gtinofpineapplerings,drained4glacécherries,halved120g(4oz)castersugar120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing2largeeggs,beaten

120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowderCream,icecreamorcustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Greasea20cm(8in)sandwichtinandlinethebasewithnon-stickbakingparchment.Spreadthegoldensyrupacrossthebaseofthetinandarrangethepineappleringsandcherriesontop.

PLACETHESUGAR,BUTTER,EGGS,flourandbakingpowderinamixingbowlandbeattogetherwithanelectrichandmixeruntilsmoothandpaleincolour.Spreadthemixtureevenlyoverthepineappleringsinthetin.

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR50–60minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenandjustshrinkingawayfromthesidesofthetin.Invertontoaplateandservehotorcold,withcream,icecreamorcustard.

TreacletartCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled180ml(6floz)goldensyrup60g(2oz)breadcrumbsFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonororange

1egg,beatenVanillaicecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Rolloutthreequartersofthepastryontheflouredsurfaceanduseittolinea20cm(8in)piedish(seehere).Reservetherestofthepastrytousefordecoration.

WARMTHEGOLDENSYRUPgentlyinasaucepanorthemicrowave,mixwiththebreadcrumbsandspreadintheuncookedpastrycase.Pouroverthelemonororangejuiceandsprinklewiththezest.

ROLLOUTTHEREMAININGPASTRYandcutintostrips1cm(½in)wide.Arrangethemoverthefillinginacriss-crosspatterntomakeaprettylatticetop.Brushwithbeateneggandbakeintheovenfor30–40minutes.Servewithvanillaicecream.

FAMILYFAVOURITES

CHAPTER3

Everyoneenjoyssomethingsweetattheendofamealandthischapterisfullofsatisfyingpuddingsthatareboundtopleasethe

wholefamily.Whetheryouwantaquickmidweekpuddingoraneasyweekendtreat,thesesimplebutdeliciousoptionsareidealforwhentimeandingredientsarelimited.Ourtoffeeapplepuddingwillbeabighitwiththekids,BakewelltartisboundtoimpressGrannyorany

unexpectedguests,andlemonmeringuepiewillhaveeveryoneclamouringforsecondhelpings.Manyofthesemuch-lovedstaplerecipeswerepasseddownthegenerationsofourownfamiliesandhavestoodthetestoftime,sowehopethatsomeofthemmay

becomearegularpartofyourrepertoire.

FamilyFavourites

StickypearpuddingStrawberryjamomeletteSpicyapplelayerpuddingSyrupandapplespongeApplebrownBettyBakedapplesBakedapplesinblanketsAppletartAppleflapjackToffeeapplepuddingApplecharlotteBlackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumbleCinnamonandapplebreadpuddingLemonspongeLemonmeringuepieBanoffeepuddingOrangeupside-downpuddingSevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsRhubarbandgingerpuddingsPlumandalmondpuddingsBakewelltart

StrawberryjamomeletteCOOKINGTIME5–10MINUTES

SERVES4

1tbspcastersugar

2tbspdoubleorwhippingcream4eggs,separated30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter45g(1½oz)good-qualitystrawberryjam

2tbspicingsugarCreamorcustard,toserve

INALARGEBOWL,beatthecastersugar,creamandeggyolksuntilpale.Inaseparatebowl,beattheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Gentlyfoldthisintotheyolkmix.

PREHEATTHEGRILLTOAMEDIUMHEAT.Meltthebutterinamedium,ovenprooffryingpanuntilitstartstofoam,thenaddtheeggmix.Cookoveralowheatfor1–2minutesuntilthebaseoftheomeletteisset.Placeunderthegrillfor2–3minutesuntilthetophasjustset.

MEANWHILE,WARMTHEJAMinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave.Spreadthisontopofthecookedomeletteandsprinklewiththeicingsugar.Foldtheomeletteinhalfandservewithcreamorcustard.

SpicyapplelayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing

2tbspgoldensyrup150g(5oz)demerarasugar120g(4oz)sultanas

2tbsplemonjuice4largecookingapples,coredpeeledandsliced

1tspgroundcinnamonCustard,toserveForthesuetpastry225g(8oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetTOMAKETHESUETPASTRY,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwith150ml(5floz)coldwatertoformastiffdough.Divideroughlyintofourpieces,placeonaflouredsurfaceandpressorrolloutintocircles,graduatinginsizetofita1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasin.

GREASETHEBASIN.Spoonthegoldensyrupintothebottomofthebasin.Mixtheremainingingredientstogether.Placethesmallestcircleofpastryinthebasin,thenaddalayeroftheapplefilling,thenalternatewithpastryandfilling,finishingwiththelargestcircleofpastryontop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Turnoutontoaservingdishandservewithcustard.

SyrupandapplespongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

90g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,sifted90g(3oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestof½unwaxedlemon(juicetoserve)½tspgroundcinnamon

1egg,beatenMilk,tomix3tbspgoldensyrup,plusoptionalextratoserve

1largecookingapple,peeledandcored

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Putthebutterandsiftedflourinamixingbowland,usingyourfingertips,rubtogetheruntilthetextureislikefinecrumbs,thenstirinthesugar,lemonzestandcinnamon.Mixintheeggandenoughmilktoreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedbasin.Thinlyslicetheappleandarrangetheslicesfannedoutinacircleontopofthesyrup.Spooninthespongemixture,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard,orgoldensyrupmeltedwithalittlelemonjuice.

ApplebrownBettyCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES6

800g(1¾lb)peeled,choppedBramleyapple½tspgroundcinnamonGratedzestandjuiceof2oranges25g(1oz)demerarasugar200g(7oz)sweetbiscuits(digestivesorsimilar),crushed50g(2oz)breadcrumbs

50g(2oz)flakedorchoppednuts50g(2oz)unsaltedbutterCreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(340°F),GasMark3–4.Mixtogetherthechoppedapple,cinnamon,orangejuiceandhalfthezestinashallow,20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.

COMBINETHESUGAR,crushedbiscuits,breadcrumbsandnutswiththerestoftheorangezestandspreadthisovertheapplemixture.Placesmallpiecesofbutteracrossthetopofthecrumbmix.

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR30–40minutesuntiltheappleiscookedandthecrumbtopiscrispandbrown.Servewithcreamoricecream.

ThisfamilyrecipecomesfromJillCoombe,fromThePuddingClub.SheinheriteditfromGrannyCoombe,whobakeditregularly.It’squicktomakeand

abitofcheat,butabsolutelydeliciousnonetheless.

BakedapplesCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

4cookingapples,suchasBramleySeedling

75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingPinchofgroundgingerorcinnamon100g(3½oz)softlightbrownsugarChilledthickcreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Wipeandcoretheapples.Makeashallowcutroundthemiddlecircumferenceoftheapples,piercingtheskinbutgoingnodeeper,sothattheapplesdon’tburstduringcooking.

GREASEASHALLOW,ovenproofbakingdishthatcanholdalltheapplestightly.Placetheapplesinthedishandputapieceofbutterintothecavityofeach,followedbyapinchofyourchosenspice,thenfillupeachapplewithsugar.Dotthetopoftheappleswiththeremainingbutter.Ifyouhaveanysugarorbutterremaining,distributeitacrossthebottomofthedish.

BAKETHEAPPLESFOR30minutesoruntiltheircentresaresoftandfluffyandthebutterandsugarhaveturnedintoathintoffee.Servestraightfromtheovenwithchilledthickcreamoricecream.

IfyoufindyourselfinKentvisittheNationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleFarmnearFaversham.Thereareahugenumberofappleandotherfruittreesand

cultivars.

BakedapplesinblanketsCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

Butter,forgreasingPlainflour,fordusting300g(11oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)½tspmixedspice50g(2oz)castersugar50g(2oz)sultanas1tbspbrandy

4mediumBramleyapples1egg,beatenMilk,forbrushingCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseabakingsheet.Onaflouredsurface,rolloutthepastryandcutintofoursquares,eachlargeenoughtofullyencaseawholeapple.

COMBINETHEMIXEDSPICE,sugar,sultanasandbrandytogetherinasmallbowl.Peelandcoretheapplesandplaceoneinthecentreofeachpastrysquare.Filltheholeineachapplewiththespicemixture.Pulluptheedgesofthepastrysothattheapplesareenclosedandpresstogetheratthetop.

ARRANGETHEPASTRYPARCELSonthegreasedbakingsheetwiththejoinspositionedunderneath.Brushwithbeateneggandmilkandbakeintheovenfor30minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustard.

AppletartCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

900g(2lb)BramleyorCoxapples,peeledandcored100g(3½oz)castersugar

2tbsplemonjuice225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled100g(3½oz)apricotjamCreamoricecream,toserve

SLICE700g(1½lb)OFTHEPEELED,coredapplesandplaceinasaucepanwiththesugar,lemonjuiceand100ml(3½floz)water.Bringtotheboilandsimmeruntiltheapplebreaksdownintoapulp.Passthroughasieveandleavetocool.

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thickanduseittolinea23cm(9in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.Leavetheoventurnedon.

PLACETHECOOLEDAPPLEPURÉEinthecookedpastrycaseandsmooththesurface.Slicetheremainingapplethinlyandplaceneatlyontothetartinacircle,graduallyoverlappingtheslicesuntiltheapplepuréeiscompletelycovered.

RETURNTHETARTTOTHEOVENandbakefor20–25minutes.Assoonasyou’veremovedthetartfromtheoven,heattheapricotjaminasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave.Useapastrybrushtobrushthemeltedjamontotheappletogiveitaniceglaze.Servethetartwarmorcold,withcreamoricecream.

AppleflapjackCOOKINGTIME35MINUTES

SERVES4–6

960g(2lb2oz)cookingapples,peeled,coredandsliced6tbspcastersugar

4tbspgoldensyrup170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing240g(8½oz)rolledoats¼tspsalt

1tspgroundgingerIcingsugar,todredgeCustard,toserve

PLACEMOSTOFTHEAPPLESLICESinasaucepan(reserveafewslicesfordecoration)with3½tablespoonsofthecastersugar,coverwithalidandsimmergentlyuntilsoftandpulpy.

PUT2TABLESPOONSOFCASTERSUGARinanothersaucepanwiththegoldensyrupand150g(5oz)ofthebutter,andheatgentlyuntildissolved.Removefromtheheatandstirintheoats,saltandginger.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreaseashallow20cm(8in)piedish.Usethree-quartersoftheoatmixturetolinethebaseandsidesupto2.5cm(1in)fromthetop.Pourovertheapplemixtureandcoverwiththeremainingoatmixture.Pressdownlightly.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORABOUT35minutes.Justbeforetheendofthecookingtime,gentlyfrythereservedappleslicesintheremainingbutterandabout1teaspoonofcastersugar.Removetheflapjackfromtheovenanddredgewithicingsugar.Decoratewiththefriedappleslicesandservewithcustard.

ToffeeapplepuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

4eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,sifted150g(5oz)peeled,coredandchoppedBramleyappleCustard,toserve

Forthetoffeesauce30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter70ml(2½floz)whippingcream85g(3oz)softdarkbrownsugar

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addthebeateneggsasmallamountatatime–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Graduallyfoldintheremainingflour,thenadd100g(3½oz)ofthechoppedappleandmixwell.

TOMAKETHETOFFEESAUCE,putthebutter,creamanddarkbrownsugarinasaucepan,bringtotheboilandsimmeruntilthesaucethickensslightly.Pourthesauceintothebottomofthegreasedbasin,addtheremaining50g(2oz)ofchoppedapple,thenpourthespongemixtureontop.

SEALTHEBASINwithalidorfoilandsteamforapproximately2hoursuntilfirmtothetouch.Turnoutontoaservingplateandservewithcustard.

FortheEnglish,toffeeapplesaresynonymouswithBonfireNight,butinScotland,IrelandandtheUS,thesesugarytreats-onsticksaremorecommonly

eatenatHalloween.

WHYNOTTRY…?It’snicetoservealittleextratoffeesaucealongsidethis.Simplyincreasethe

saucequantitiesasyouwish,andkeepbacktheextraproportionwhenfillingthebasin.

ApplecharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES4

450g(1lb)peeled,coredandchoppedapples(BramleyorCoxareideal)

1tbspcastersugar110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter6medium-thicknessslicesofbread,crustsremoved

1eggyolkCreamorcustard,toserve

PLACETHECHOPPEDAPPLESinasaucepanwiththesugarand25g(1oz)ofthebutter.Cookoveralowheatuntilsoftandbrokendown.Removefromtheheatandpuréetheappleinthepanwithahandblender.Leavetocool.

MELTTHEREMAINING85g(3oz)ofbutterinasaucepanorthemicrowaveandbrushitoveronesideofeachbreadslice,makingsurethebreadiswellcovered.Cutintorectanglesandusemostofthemtolinea20–25cm(8–10in)puddingbasinorroundcaketin,12cm(4½in)indepth,placingthepiecesbuttered-sidedownandslightlyoverlapping(reservealittlebreadforthetop).Pressdownfirmly.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Whentheapplepuréeiscool,whiskintheeggyolkandpourthemixtureintothebread-linedbasinortin.Coverwiththeremainingslicedbread,butter-sideup,andpressdownfirmly.Bakeintheovenfor45minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Carefullyturnoutontoawarmedplateandservewithcreamorcustard.

Blackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumble

COOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour½tspgroundcinnamon165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

1tspvanillaessence450g(1lb)peeled,coredandslicedBramleyapples250g(9oz)blackberriesCastersugar,totasteCustardorcream,toserveTOPREPARETHECRUMBLETOPPING,sifttheflourandcinnamontogetherintoamixingbowl,addthedemerarasugarandmixwell.Addthebutter,margarineandvanillaessenceandmixtoafinecrumbconsistencywithyourfingertips.Placeinthefridgetochill.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Mixtheapplesandblackberriestogetherwithcastersugartotasteandplaceinthebottomofadeep,30cm(12in)ovalovenproofbakingdish.

ADDTHECRUMBLETOPPINGandpresstofirmthetopalittle.Bakeintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Youcansubstitutepartoftheself-raisingflourwithporridgeoats.Youcanalsousechoppedhazelnutsforaddedcrunch.

CinnamonandapplebreadpuddingCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6

Butter,forgreasing300g(11oz)whitebread,cutintoapprox.1cm(½in)cubes300g(11oz)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingapple120g(4oz)goldencastersugar

2tspgroundcinnamon200ml(7floz)milk200ml(7floz)whippingcream4eggs

2tspvanillaessenceToffeesauce,toserve(seehere)

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea30cm(12in)ovalovenproofbakingdish.Placeabouthalfthebreadcubesandchoppedappleinthebottom,makingsuretheyareevenlymixedinthedish.

MIXTOGETHERTHESUGARandcinnamoninasmallbowl.Sprinkleabouthalfoverthebreadandapple,thenspreadtheremainingbreadandappleontop.Whisktogetherthemilk,cream,eggsandvanillaessenceuntilwellcombined.Pourthisoverthepuddingandleavefor10–15minutesfortheliquidtobeabsorbedintothebread.

SPRINKLETHEREMAININGSUGARandcinnamonontothetopandbakeintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Thecentreofthepuddingshouldstillbeniceandmoistandthetopcrispy.Servewithtoffeesauce.

LemonspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar3eggs,beaten

200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,siftedFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon

3tbsplemoncurdCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflourandthelemonzestandjuice.

PUTTHELEMONCURDinthebaseofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

VariationLemonandsyrupspongeMakeasdescribed,butusinggoldencastersugarandomittingthelemonjuicefromthespongemixture.Insteadoflemoncurd,warm3tablespoonsofgoldensyrupinasaucepanorthemicrowave,mixwiththelemonjuiceandplaceinthebasin.Pourthespongemixtureoverthetop,coverandsteamfor2hours.Servewithextrasyrupmixedwithlemonjuice,aswellascustardoricecream.

LemonmeringuepieCOOKINGTIME1HOUR10MINUTES

SERVES6

Flour,fordusting225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)

3tbspcornflour225g(8oz)castersugarGratedzestandjuiceof2large,unwaxedlemons3largeeggs,separated40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutterPouringcream,toserve

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthepastrytoacircle2cm(¾in)largerindiameterthantherimofadeep20cm(8in)piedish.Cuta1cm(½in)stripfromallthewayaroundtheedgeofthepastry,dampentherimofthedishandpressonthestrip.Linethedishwiththepastrycircle(seehere),ensuringnoairistrappedunderneath.Prickthebasealloverwithaforkandputinthefridgefor30minutes;thishelpstopreventthepastryshrinkingwhilebaking.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andblindbakethechilledpastrycasefor25minutesoruntilcookedthrough(seehere).Removefromtheovenandturndownthetemperatureto150°C(300°F),GasMark2.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEFILLING.Measure275ml(½pint)coldwaterintoajugandspoonthecornflourand50g(2oz)ofthesugarintoabowl.Addenoughofthewatertomixtoasmoothpaste,thenpourtheremainingwaterintoasmallsaucepanandaddthelemonzest.Bringtotheboilandthenpourthisgraduallyontothecornflourpaste,mixingallthetimeuntilsmooth.

RETURNTHEMIXTURETOTHEPANandbringbacktotheboil,stillmixingcontinuously.Simmerverygentlyforabout1minute,continuingtostir.Removethepanfromtheheatandbeatintheeggyolks,lemonjuiceandbutter.Pourthelemonmixtureintothepastrycaseandspreadoutevenly.

TOMAKETHEMERINGUE,whisktheeggwhitesinalarge,scrupulouslycleanbowl

untiltheyformstiffpeaks.Whiskintheremaining175g(6oz)ofsugaraboutaquarteratatime,untilcompletelyincorporated.Withapaletteknife,spreadthemeringueoverthelemonfillinginthepastrycase,takingitrighttotheedgesofthepastryrimsothatthepieissealed.Ifyouwish,youcanmakedecorativeswirlsinthemeringueusingthepaletteknife.

BAKEONTHECENTRESHELFoftheovenfor45minutes,bywhichtimethemeringuewillbepalebeige,crispontheoutsideandsoftwithin.Servewarmorcold(butleavetosettlefor20minutesifservingwarm).Accompanywithchilledpouringcream.

ItiswidelybelievedthatmeringuewasinventedintheSwisstownofMeiringenin1720,althoughdoubtshavebeenraisedbyasimilarrecipediscoveredinanearlierFrenchcookbook,andbytheappearanceoftheword‘meringue’inanearliereditionoftheEnglishdictionary.Butwhateverthetruth–Swissor

French–nobodycanarguethatthelemonmeringuepiehasdevelopedatrulyBritishidentity.

BanoffeepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

3ripebananas120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar1largeegg

1tbspmilk120g(4oz)self-raisingflour½tspbakingpowder

2tsplemonjuiceCustard,toserve

Forthetoffeesauce4½tbspdoublecream15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugarLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Placethesauceingredientsinasaucepanandmelttogetheroveralowheat.Peelandsliceonebananaandputinthebottomofthegreasedbasin.Pourinthetoffeesauce.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugar,thenbeatintheeggandmilk.Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogetherintoaseparatebowl.Peeltheremainingtwobananasandmashwiththelemonjuice.Stirthemashedbananasintothecreamedmixturethenfoldinthesiftedflour.

MIXTOENSUREEVERYTHINGiswellincorporatedandpourintothebasin.Coverwellwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithcustard.

ThecombinationofbananasandtoffeewasdevisedbyaSussexchefintheearly1970s,asthewell-knownpieofthesamename.ItprovedinstantlypopularinBritainandquicklycaughtonaroundtheworld.Inthisrecipetheflavourshave

beentranslatedintoadeliciousspongepudding.

Orangeupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME35–40MINUTES

SERVES6–8

125g(4½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)castersugar

2eggs125g(4½oz)self-raisingflour2sweetoranges4tbspgoldensyrup

2ballsofstemgingerWhippedcreamoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseadeep20cm(8in)caketin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsoneatatime–ifthemixturestartstosplit,justaddalittleoftheflour.Zestoneoftheorangesandaddthegratedzesttothecreamedmixture,thenfoldintheremainingflour.

SPOONTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedtinandspreadtocoverthebase.Peelbothoranges,removingtheskinandpith.Slicethemthinlyandarrangetheslicesoverlappingontopofthegoldensyrup.Slicethestemgingerandplaceontopoftheorangeslices.

SPREADTHESPONGEMIXTUREovertheorangeandgingerslices.Bakeintheovenfor35–40minutesuntilfirm.Leavetocool,thenturnoutontoaservingplateandservewithwhippedcreamoricecream.

SevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

240g(8½oz)good-quality,thick-cut,Sevilleorangemarmalade200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar

4eggs½tspvanillaessence200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,siftedGratedzestandjuiceof1orangeCustard,toserveGREASEEIGHT150–200ml(5–7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Place30g(1oz)ofthemarmaladeintothebottomofeach.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsandvanillaessence–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleofthesiftedflour.Foldtheremainingflourintothecreamedmixtureandstirwell.Finallyaddtheorangezestandjuice.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREEVENLYbetweenthepuddingbasins.Sealwithlidsorfoilandsteamfor45–60minutesuntilcooked.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Sevilleorangesareonlyavailableforaveryshorttimeatthebeginningoftheyear,solookoutforthemifyouwanttomakeyourownmarmalade.

RhubarbandgingerpuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

200g(7oz)freshrhubarb50g(2oz)stemginger,finelychopped200ml(7floz)gingersyrup(fromthestemgingerjar)200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar

4eggs200g(7oz)self-raisingflour½tspbakingpowder

2tbspgroundgingerGratedzestandjuiceof1orangeCustard,vanillaicecreamorvanillayoghurt,toserveGREASEEIGHT200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Choptherhubarbinto2–3cm(¾–1in)pieces.Drainthestemgingerandmeasureouttherequiredsyrupfromthejar.Put5teaspoonsofthegingersyrupintoeachbasinandtopwith25g(1oz)ofthechoppedrhubarb.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggs–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Sifttheremainingflourintoaseparatebowl,togetherwiththebakingpowderandgroundginger.Foldthemintothecreamedmixtureandstirwelltoincorporate.

ADDTHEORANGEZESTandjuiceandthechoppedstemginger.Themixtureshouldbefairlyfluid;divideitevenlybetweenthegreasedbasinsandsealwithlidsorfoil.Steamfor45–60minutes.Turnoutandservewithcustard,vanillaicecreamorvanillayoghurt.

PlumandalmondpuddingsCOOKINGTIME15–20MINUTES

MAKES8

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggs½tspalmondessence100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour50g(2oz)groundalmonds240g(8½oz)dicedorslicedVictoriaplums40g(1½oz)goldensyrupThickcreamorvanillaicecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsandalmondessence–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflourandgroundalmondsandmixwell.

PLACE30g(1oz)oftheplumsandabout1teaspoonofthesyrupinthebottomofeight200ml(7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Pour80g(3oz)ofthespongemixintoeachbasinandbakeforapproximately15minutes,untilfirmtothetouchandgoldenbrown.Turnoutandservewiththickcreamorvanillaicecream.

ThePuddingClubisontheedgeoftheValeofEvesham–oneofthefruit-growingcentresofEngland–andwecreatedthisrecipewhenwehadaglutofplumsoneyear.ThebestplumsareVictoria,delicioustoeatontheirown,or

spoilyourselfanduseafewinthisrecipe.

BakewelltartCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,softened225g(8oz)castersugar

225g(8oz)groundalmonds

3eggs50g(2oz)plainflour,plusextrafordustingGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon350g(12oz)good-qualityraspberryjam25g(1oz)flakedalmondsCustardorcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thickanduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethechilledpastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F),GasMark4.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,creamtogetherthebutterandsugarinamixingbowluntilpaleandfluffy.Mixinthegroundalmonds,thenaddtheeggstothemixtureoneatatime,mixingwellwitheachaddition.Ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Finally,addtheremainingflourandlemonzestandmixtocombine.

SPREADTHERASPBERRYJAMacrossthebaseofthecookedpastrycase.Pourthefillingoverthejamandlevelitout.Sprinkletheflakedalmondsontop.Bakeintheovenfor20minutes,untilsetandgoldenbrown.Allowtocoolandservewithcustardorcream.

ManythinkthisistheoriginalconfectionfromtheDerbyshiretown,buttheyaresadlymistaken,asthistartisthepretendertotheBakewellpuddingthrone(seehere).Ithasbecomefamousnonetheless,alongwiththemuch-disputedtheory

thatitcameaboutwhenarecipeforjamtartswentwrong.

FORGOTTENPUDDINGS

CHAPTER4

SomeBritishpuddingscanbetracedbackasfarasthe15thcentury.Withsuchalong-tailedhistory,it’snosurprisethatwehavesomanytochoosefrom.Butovertheyears,trendsforsweettreatshavecomeandgone,andmanyonce-lovedpudsarenowalmostforgotten.Soin

thischapterwewanttoremindeveryoneaboutsomeneglectedpuddingsthatdeservetobecookedandenjoyedanew!Manyofthemwillbeunknowntoyou;wehopeyouwillgivethematryandenjoylearningthequirkystoriesabouttheiroriginsandhowtheygained

theirnames.We’dloveyoutosharethesepuddingswithyourfriendsandhelpussavethemfromextinction.

ForgottenPuddings

Duchess’spuddingDukeofCambridgetartOxfordpuddingPoorknightsofWindsorRhubarbhatVictoria’spuddingPrinceAlbertpuddingCharlotteroyaleCollegepuddingThreeandthreepuddingAppledappyApplebolsterCabinetpuddingSussexpondpuddingKentishwellpuddingBakewellpuddingNottinghambatterpuddingBlackberryExeterpuddingManchesterpuddingsLightcloutiedumplingScottishflummery

Duchess’spuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar

2eggs,beaten150g(5oz)self-raisingflour60g(2oz)mixeddriedfruit30g(1oz)glacécherries,chopped30g(1oz)shelledwalnuts,choppedFewdropsofalmondessenceMilk,tomix

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggstothecreamedmixture,beatingwellaftereachaddition.

SIFTINTHEFLOUR,thenaddthemixedfruit,cherries,nuts,almondessenceandenoughmilktogiveasoftdroppingconsistency.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

DukeofCambridgetartCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Plainflour,fordusting50g(2oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel50g(2oz)glacécherries,chopped25g(1oz)angelica,chopped75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter75g(3oz)castersugar

2eggyolksCream,toserve

GREASEAN18cm(7in)tartorsandwichtin.Alternatively,youcanusesixindividualtarttins.Rolloutthepastryonaflouredsurfaceanduseittolinethegreasedtin(s).Chillinthefridgefor30minutestoavoidthepastryshrinkingwhilebaking.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sprinklethechilledpastrywiththechoppedcandiedpeel,cherriesandangelica.Putthebutter,sugarandeggyolksintoasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil,beatingwithawoodenspoon.Whenboiling,pouroverthefruitinthepastrycase(s).

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR30–40MINUTES;checkafter30minutesandcoverwithfoilifthepastryisbrowningtoomuch.Individualtartswillneedlesscookingtime(givethem20–25minutesbutcheckthemregularly).Servewarmwithcream.

OxfordpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugar180g(6½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt

60g(2oz)groundrice120g(4oz)shreddedsuet120g(4oz)goldensyrup,plusextratoserve120g(4oz)thick-cutmarmalade1egg,beaten

2tbspmilkCustard,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandpressthesugarontothesidesandthebase.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowlandaddthegroundrice.Stirinthesuet,goldensyrupandmarmalade.

MIXTOGETHERTHEBEATENEGGANDMILK,thenpourthisontotheotheringredients,mixingwelltocombine.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours,toppingupwithboilingwaterasnecessary.Turnoutandservewithwarmedgoldensyrupandcustard.

PoorknightsofWindsorCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4–6

3tbspsinglecream2eggs3tbspmediumsherry1tbspgroundcinnamon

2tbspcastersugar6slicesofday-oldwhitebread,1.25cm(½in)thick,crustsremovedUnsaltedbutter,forfryingJam,toserveBEATTHECREAM,EGGSANDSHERRYtogetherwell.Mixthecinnamonandsugartogetherinasmallbowl.Cuteachsliceofbreadintothreewidefingersanddipeachpieceintotheeggmixturetocoatbothsides.

MELTTHEBUTTERINALARGEFRYINGPANuntilsizzling.Frythecoatedbreadslicesuntilcrispandgoldenbrownonbothsides.Pilethecookedslicesontoawarmservingdishandsprinklewiththecinnamonsugar.Servewithajamsauce,madebygentlymeltingsomejaminasmallsaucepanandmixingwithalittlewater.

Stalebreadistransformedintoadeliciousrichdessert,notunlikeFrenchtoast.OnetheorysuggeststhenamecameaboutbecausethepuddingwasservedtoretiredmilitaryofficersatWindsorCastleaspaymentforofficiatingatservices

andceremonies.

RhubarbhatCOOKINGTIME2–3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)breadcrumbs30g(1oz)vegetablesuet60g(2oz)castersugar½tspgroundginger10g(½oz)stemginger,chopped240g(8½oz)freshrhubarb,choppedCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwithenoughcoldwatertoformafairlystiffdough.Dividethepastryintotwothirdsandonethird.Rolloutthelargerpieceonaflouredsurfaceandusetolinethegreasedbasin.Reservethesmallerpieceforthelid.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,combinethebreadcrumbs,suet,sugarandbothtypesofginger.Placehalfofthechoppedrhubarbintothebaseofthelinedbasin.Coverwithhalfofthebreadcrumbmixtureandrepeatwiththerestoftherhubarb,thentheremainingcrumbs.

ONTHEFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthesmallerpieceofpastryandplaceontopofthepudding,wettingtheedgestomakeitstick.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Victoria’spuddingCOOKINGTIME5½HOURS

SERVES6–8

60g(2oz)stoneddates60g(2oz)demerarasugar30g(1oz)glacécherries,chopped180g(6½oz)raisinsPinchofgroundnutmeg¼tspmixedspice

2tsphoney

2tsprum120ml(4floz)coldteaButter,forgreasing90g(3oz)wholemealself-raisingflour60g(2oz)wholemealbreadcrumbs

2tbspsunfloweroil1smallbanana,peeledandmashed1egg,beatenCustard,toserve

INALARGEMIXINGBOWL,mixtogetherthefirstninelistedingredients,fromthedatestothecoldtea.Coverandleavetosteep,ideallyovernightorforatleastafewhours.

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Combinetheremainingingredientsandmixintothesteepedmixtureuntileverythingiswellincorporated.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor5½hours,addingmoreboilingwaterasnecessary.Servewithcustard.

It’sawell-knownfactthatQueenVictorialovedpuddings.Andnobodywouldexpecthernamesakepuddingtobefrugal–loadedwithdates,cherries,spices,rumandbananas,it’sapuddingfitforaqueen.Thiskeepsverywellandcanbe

reheatedbysteamingfor1½hours.

PrinceAlbertpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES6

270g(9½oz)prunes180g(6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened120g(4oz)castersugar

3eggs,separated45g(1½oz)groundrice120g(4oz)brownbreadcrumbsFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix

Creamorcustard,toserveLINETHEBASEOFA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)puddingbasinwithacircleofgreaseproofpaper.Slicetheprunesinhalf,removingthestones.Melt60g(2oz)ofthebutterinasmallsaucepan,thendiptheprunehalvesintothemeltedbutterandusethemtocompletelylinethebasin,placingthefleshysideagainstthebasin’sedge.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogethertherestofthebutterwiththesugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheeggyolksandfoldinthegroundrice,breadcrumbsandlemonzest.Mixwithenoughmilktoreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

INACLEANBOWL,beattheeggwhitestoastifffroth,foldintothepuddingmixtureandspoonitcarefullyintotheprune-linedbasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Turnoutandservewithcreamorcustard.

LikeQueenVictoria,itseemshusbandAlbertwasalsopartialtoapuddingortwo,andthisisjustoneofmanybespokepudsthatwereprobablyinventedinthe

palacekitchensespeciallyforthem.

CharlotteroyaleCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES8

Butter,forgreasing500ml(18floz)milk2tspvanillaessence

5eggyolks150g(5oz)castersugar,plusextraforthebasin25g(1oz)gelatineleaves500ml(18floz)whippingcreamCream,toserve

FortheSwissroll

4eggs220g(8oz)castersugar120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted200g(7oz)raspberryorstrawberryjamFIRSTMAKETHESWISSROLL.Preheattheovento220°C(425°F),GasMark7.Usegreaseproofpapertolineashallow,oblongbakingtrayofapprox.45×20cm(18×8in).Whisktheeggsand120g(4oz)ofthesugarinalargeheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater(abain-marie)untilthick,creamyandwhiteincolour.Removefromtheheatthengentlyfoldthesiftedflourintothemixture.Pourintothelinedtrayandlevelout.Bakeforapproximately8minutesoruntilfirmtothetouch.

SPREADTHEREMAINING100g(3½oz)ofcastersugaronacleanteatowelandcarefullyturnthespongeoutofthetinwhilestillwarm,ontothesugaredcloth.Spreadthejamevenlyoverthesponge,thencarefullyrolluptoformaSwissroll.Trimtheendsandleavetocool.

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasinandcoatwithcastersugar.ThinlyslicetheSwissrollandarrangetheslicesinsidethebasinsothatitiscompletelylined.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,heatthemilkandvanillaessenceinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Whisktogethertheeggyolksandsugarinalargemixingbowluntilthickandcreamy.Graduallypourthehotmilkontotheeggandsugarmixture,whiskingtocombine.Thenreturnthemixturetothesaucepanandheatgraduallyuntilitthickensandwillcoatthebackofaspoon;thisshouldtake5–10minutes.

SOAKTHEGELATINEincoldwateruntilsoft,thenremoveandsqueezeoutanyexcesswater.Addtothefillingandstiruntildissolved.Strainthemixturethroughasieveandleavetocool.Whipthecreamlightly,thenfoldintothefillingjustbeforeitreachessettingpoint.Pourintothebasin,andplaceinthefridgefor2hourstoset.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithcream.

CollegepuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)raisins60g(2oz)currants30g(1oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel90g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar

1egg,beatenApprox.6tbspmilkCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthebreadcrumbs,suet,driedfruit,candiedpeelandsugarandmixtocombine.Stirinthebeateneggandenoughofthemilktoproduceasoftdroppingconsistency.

SPOONINTOTHEPUDDINGBASIN,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Thispuddingturnsouteasilyiflefttorestforafewminutesaftertakingitoutofthesteamer.Servewithcustard.

So-calledbecauseitwastraditionallyservedtostudentsinthecollegehallsofOxfordandCambridge.A1617recipeforthispuddingmaybetheearliest

mentionofsuetinBritishcookery.

ThreeandthreepuddingCOOKINGTIME50MINUTES

SERVES6–8

170g(6oz)roughpuffpastry

3largecookingapples85g(3oz)castersugar,plus1extratablespoonforthemeringue85g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing3eggs,separated

Gratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonCandiedfruits,todecorateCream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Greasea20cm(8in)piedishandlinewiththepuffpastry(seehere).Decoratetheedgeswithleavesandflowerscutfromthetrimmings.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLES,cutintoquartersandhalveeachpieceagain,thenplaceinasaucepanwith1tablespoonofwater.Overamediumheat,simmergentlyuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheatandpushthesoftenedapplethroughasieve,orpuréeinthepanwithahandblender.

ADDTHESUGAR,butter,eggyolks,lemonjuiceandzesttothepuréedappleandmixwellinthepanoveralowheatforafewminutesuntilthick,butdonotallowtoboil.Transferthismixtureintotheuncookedpastrycaseandbakefor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,INASCRUPULOUSLYcleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitestostiffpeaks,thenadd1tablespoonofsugarandwhiskinwell.Pilethemeringuemixtureontothecookedfruitbase,spreadingitrighttotheedgestoseal.Decoratewithcandiedfruitsandbakeforafurther20minutesatthebottomoftheoven.Servewithcream.

Thosewithsharpeyeswillunderstandthenameofthispudding.Ofcourse,itbecomesmuchmoremysteriouswhentheingredientsaregiveninmetric…

AppledappyCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES6–8

240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting

1tspbakingpowder60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing150ml(5floz)milk480g(1lb1oz)cookingapples,peeled,coredanddiced

1tbspdemerarasugar½tspgroundallspiceorcinnamonCustardorclottedcream,toserveForthelemonsyrup

1unwaxedlemon

1tbspgoldensyrup15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter120g(4oz)castersugar

FIRST,MAKETHELEMONSYRUP.Peelthelemonasthinlyaspossibleandsqueezeoutthejuice.Putthepeel,juiceandothersyrupingredientsintoasmallsaucepanwith200ml(7floz)waterandheatgently,stirringuntilthesugarisdissolved.Leavetostanduntilneeded.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Thoroughlygreaseabakingtinorovenproofbakingdish.Sifttheflourandbakingpowderintoafoodprocessor,addthebutterandprocesstofinebreadcrumbs.(Alternatively,putinalargemixingbowlandrubtogetherwithyourfingertipsuntiltheyresemblebreadcrumbs.)Mixinthemilktoformadough.

ROLLOUTTHEDOUGHonaflouredsurfacetoa20cm(8in)square,approx.5mm(¼in)thick.Spreadthechoppedapplesontothedoughandsprinklewiththesugarandspice.RollupverytightlylikeaSwissrollandcutinto2.5cm(1in)slices.

ARRANGETHESLICESinthegreasedbakingtinordishinasinglelayer.Removethepeelfromthesyrupandpourovertheslices.Bakeintheovenfor30minutes,oruntiltheslicesarepuffedupandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorclottedcream.

ThedappyhailsfromtheWestCountry,whereapplesaregrowninabundancethroughoutDorset,Somerset,DevonandCornwallforthelocalcidertrade.

ApplebolsterCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing225g(8oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting½tspsalt

100g(3½oz)shreddedsuetApprox.135ml(4½floz)milk,plus1tbspforbrushing450g(1lb)cookingapples50g(2oz)softlightbrownsugar50g(2oz)sultanas

¼tspmixedspice¼tspgroundcinnamonCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseabakingtray.Stirtheflour,saltandsuettogetherinalargebowl.Graduallymixinenoughmilktoformasoftdough.Turnoutthedoughontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlybeforerollingouttoa30cm(12in)square.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLESandcutthefleshintosmallpieces.Mixtheapplewiththesugar,sultanasandspicesandarrangeonthesuetpastryto2.5cm(1in)fromtheedges.Dampentheedgesofthepastrywithalittlewater,rolluptightlylikeaSwissrollandsealtheends.

PUTTHEPUDDINGontothegreasedbakingtraywiththeseamfacingdownwards.Brushthesurfacewiththeremainingtablespoonofmilkandbakeintheovenfor40minutes.Servehotwithcustardorcream.

CabinetpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES6

40g(1½oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel25g(1oz)sultanas100g(3½oz)currants275g(10oz)ready-madespongecake50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing

3eggsApprox.450ml(16floz)milk25g(1oz)castersugarGratedzestof1unwaxedlemonPinchofgroundnutmegCustard,toserveTHOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sprinklethebasewiththecandiedpeel,sultanasandafewofthecurrants.Trytogetsomeofthefruittosticktothesidesofthebasin.Cutthespongecakeintothinslicesandarrangeinlayersinthebasin,withcurrantsandalittlebutterbetweeneachlayer.

BREAKTHEEGGSintoameasuringjugandmakeupto600ml(1pint)withmilk.Addthesugar,lemonzestandnutmegandbeattogetheruntilwellmixed.Pourthisliquidintothepuddingbasinveryslowly,sothatitsoaksintothespongecake.Leavetostandfor2hoursforthespongetosoakandsoften.

COVERTHEBASINwithalidordoublelayerofgreaseproofpaperandsteamthepuddingfor1½hours,keepingthewatertoppedupasnecessary.Removefromthepanandleavetostandfor3minutes,thenturnoutontoawarmedservingplate.Servewarmwithcustard.

Atraditionalsteamedpudwithlayersofspongeandlotsofdriedfruit,thisisalsosometimescalledchancellor’spudding,orifservedcolditisknownas

diplomat’spudding.

SussexpondpuddingCOOKINGTIME3½HOURS

SERVES8

120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)demerarasugar1largelemon(preferablywithathinskin)Custard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetApprox.150ml(5floz)mixedmilkandwaterGREASEA1.5–1.7-LITRE(2½–3-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethepastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwell.Addenoughofthemilkmixturetoformasoftdoughthatcanberolledout.Itisveryimportantthatthedoughisnottoowet.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rollthedoughintoalargecircle,ensuringit’snotrolledtoothinly.Cutoutaquarterofthecircleandsetasidetouselaterformakingalid.Placetheremainingdoughinthegreasedbasinandjoinupthetwocutedges,wettingthemtoseal,sothatthebasiniscompletelylined.

CUTTHEBUTTERINTOSMALLPIECESandputhalfinthebasinwithhalfthesugar.Prickthelemonallover,usingathickskewer.Placeontopofthebutterandsugarinthebasin.Coverwiththerestofthebutterandsugar.

RE-ROLLTHEREMAININGPASTRYtomakealid.Wettheedges,fitoverthefillingandpresstheedgesdowntosealthemfirmly.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3½hours(orlongerforareallytenderlemon),addingmorewaterifneeded.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

KentishwellpuddingCOOKINGTIME3½HOURS

SERVES8

1tbspgoldensyrupGratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar120g(4oz)currantsCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetApprox.150ml(5floz)mixedmilkandwaterGREASEA1.5–1.7-LITRE(2½–3-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethepastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwell.Addenoughofthemilkmixturetomakeasoftdoughthatcanberolledout.Itisveryimportantthatthedoughisnottoowet.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rollthedoughintoalargecircle,ensuringit’snotrolledtoothinly.Cutoutaquarterofthecircleandsetasidetouselaterformakingalid.

PLACETHEGOLDENSYRUPinthebottomofthegreasedbasin,alongwithhalfthelemonzest.Wetthecutedgesofthelargepieceofdoughandplaceitinthegreasedbasin,joiningupthetwocutedgessothatthebasiniscompletelylined.Cutthebutterintosmallpieces,mixwiththesugarandcurrantsandplaceinthelinedbasin.

ONTHEFLOUREDSURFACE,rollouttheremainingpastrytomakealid.Wettheedges,placeoverthefillingandpresstheedgestogethertosealthemfirmly.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thelesser-knowncousinoftheSussexpondpudding(seehere),it’snosurprise

thatKentdevelopedasimilarpud,sincethetwocountiesshareaborder.WheretheSussexvarietyconcealsawholelemon,thisrecipehasabutterycentrefilled

withcurrants.

BakewellpuddingCOOKINGTIME25–30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

2heapedtbspapricotjam3eggs,beaten90g(3oz)castersugar120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasing90g(3oz)groundalmondsCustardorcream,toserveForthepastry

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting45g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter45g(1½oz)lard

Icedwater,tomixPREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Makethepastrybyrubbingtheflour,butterandlardtogetherwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs.Addice-coldwateratablespoonfulatatime,untilthecrumbscometogethertoformadough.Wrapinclingfilmandchillfor30minutes,thenrolloutonaflouredboardto5mm(¼in)thick.

GREASEA20cm(8in)piedishandlinewiththepastry(seehere).Warmthejamgentlyinasaucepanorthemicrowaveandspreadthisevenlyovertheuncookedpastrybase.Beattheeggsandsugartogetheruntilpaleandcreamy,thenstirinthemeltedbutterandgroundalmondsandpourthemixtureoverthejam.Bakefor25–30minutesoruntilthefillingisset.Servewithcustardorcream.

BakewellpuddingistheoriginalconfectionforwhichtheDerbyshiretownbecamefamous(notBakewelltart!).Ifyouwalkalongthehighstreettoday,

you’llseesignsinnumeroustearoomandbakerywindows,allofwhichclaimtobetheestablishmentresponsibleforthepudding’sinvention.Nobodyknows

whichistellingthetruth…

NottinghambatterpuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES4

200g(7oz)plainflourPinchofsalt

2eggs110ml(4floz)milk50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing50g(2oz)softlightbrownsugarPinchofgroundnutmegPinchofgroundcinnamon

4evenly-sizedBramleyapplesCustardorcream,toserve

SIFTTHEFLOURANDSALTintoamixingbowl.Measure110ml(4floz)waterinajug,thenaddtheeggsandmilkandstirwelltomix.Pourthisintotheflourandwhiskverywelluntilcreamyandbubbly.Chillthebatterinthefridgeforaminimumof30minutes.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseanovenproofbakingdish,about5cm(2in)deep.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenbeatinapincheachofnutmegandcinnamon.

CORETHEAPPLESandfillthemequallywiththecreamedmixture.Takethechilledbatterfromthefridgeandbeatwell.Placetheapplesuprightinthegreaseddishandpourthebatteroverthetop.Bakeintheovenfor45–50minutes.Servewithcustardorcream.

NottinghamshireisfamousforitsBramleySeedlingapples,whichhavebeen

growingthereforovertwocenturies.SoitfollowsthattheBramleyappleisthecentralingredientinthisrecipeforNottingham’sbest-knownpudding.

BlackberryExeterpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½–3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)castersugar30g(1oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)blackberries120g(4oz)peeled,choppedcookingappleCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwithenoughcoldwatertoformafairlystiffdough,thendividethepastryintotwothirdsandonethird.Rolloutthelargerpieceonaflouredsurfaceandusetolinethegreasedbasin.Reservethesmallerpieceforthelid.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,combinethebreadcrumbs,sugarandsuet.Placehalftheblackberriesandchoppedappleintothebaseofthelinedbasin.Coverwithhalfthebreadcrumbmixtureandtopwiththeremainingblackberriesandapple.Coverwiththerestofthecrumbs.

ROLLOUTTHESMALLERPIECEOFPASTRYandplaceontopofthepudding,wettingtheedgestomakeitstick.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Afewyearsago,RickSteinfeaturedThePuddingClubasoneofhis‘foodheroes’onhisTVseriesofthesamename.Thiswasthelong-forgottenpudding

thatwechosetoshowcasetothenationontheprogramme.

ManchesterpuddingsCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

MAKES6

600ml(1pint)milkGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter275g(10oz)castersugar100g(3½oz)whitebreadcrumbs4eggs,separated,plus2yolks

4tspgood-qualityraspberryjamPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andplacesixovenproof8cm(3in)ramekinsintoadeepbakingtray.Pourthemilkintoasaucepan,addthelemonzestandplaceoveramediumheat.Bringtotheboil,toinfuse,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor10–15minutes.

WHENCOOL,ADDTHEBUTTERAND50g(2oz)ofthesugartothelemon-infusedmilk,andheatgentlyfor4minutes.Removefromtheheat,addthebreadcrumbsandmixwell.Stirinthesixeggyolks.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREbetweentheramekins,thenpourwaterintothebakingtraysothatitcomesabouthalfwayupthesideoftheramekins.Placeintheoven,takingcarenottospillthewater,andbakefor30minutes.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolslightly.Increasetheoventemperatureto220°C(425°F),GasMark7.

TOMAKETHEMERINGUE,whisktheeggwhitesinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenaddtheremaining225g(8oz)ofcastersugarandwhisktoformstiffpeaks.

PLACEATEASPOONOFRASPBERRYJAMontoeachpudding,thenspoonagenerousamountofmeringueontothetopofeach.Returnthepuddingstothehotovenandbakeforapproximately10minutesuntilslightlybrowned.Servewhilestillhot.

LightcloutiedumplingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES8

360g(12½oz)self-raisingflour½tspsalt180g(6½oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar1tspgroundcinnamon

1tspgroundgingerFinelygratedzestof1orange480g(1lb1oz)sultanas240g(8½oz)currants1tbspgoldensyrup

1tbspblacktreacle2eggs,beatenMilk,tomixCustardtoserve

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenrubinthebutterwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblescrumbs.Stirinthesugar,spices,orangezestanddriedfruits.

MAKEAWELLINTHECENTREOFTHEMIXTUREandpourinthesyrup,treacleandeggs,thenmixwithenoughmilktomakeastiffbutmoistmixture.Spoonintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

ThisScottishsuetpuddingisnamedafterthecloth(‘cloutie’)inwhichitwasoriginallycooked.Traditionally,anyleftoverswerekeptandre-heatedbyfrying

theminalittlebutter.

ScottishflummeryCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES4–6

1tbspoatmeal(ideallypinhead)300ml(11floz)doublecream

3tbspclearhoney4tbspliqueurwhisky(Drambuie)Juiceof½lemon

HEATTHEOATMEALGENTLYinaheavy-basedsaucepanuntilitjustturnsbrown,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.Inalargebowl,beatthecreamuntilsmoothbutnotstiff.

MELTTHEHONEYGENTLYinasaucepanuntilitrunseasily,beingcarefulnottoletitboil.Foldthemeltedhoneyintothebeatencream,thenstirintheliqueurandlemonjuice.Spoonintoindividualglassesorbowlsandservewhilestillwarm,withthebrownedoatmealsprinkledontop.

LegendhasitthatFloraMacdonaldmadethispuddingforBonniePrinceCharliewhenshehelpedhimfleeScotlandandescapetotheIsleofSkye.

PUDDINGSWITHATWIST

CHAPTER5

Britishcuisinehasalwayswelcomednewideasandexoticflavoursandourpuddingsarenoexception.Inthischapter,someofthemostclassicBritishpudsarecustomisedusingdifferentingredientsandfreshcombinations,toofferdelicioustwistsonfamiliarrecipes.TheEtonmessisreinventedwithblackberries,carrotsmakeawonderfullymoistpuddingthatwillrivalanycake,andtherolypolyisupdatedto

includelemoncurd.Impressyourfriendswithanunusualblackcurrantandmintpie,ortryourflavourfulrosemarysyllabub(itmayseemmodern,butisinfactcenturiesold!).Whynothavefuninventingyourowntwistsonotherclassicrecipesthroughoutthis

book?

PuddingsWithaTwist

RosemarysyllabubQuinceamberLordRandall’spuddingTutti-fruttipuddingPruneandmuscatpuddingsButterscotchtartLimemeringuepieLemoncurdrolypolyLemonsurprisepuddingMillenniumpuddingOrientalgingerpuddingPearandgingercharlotteCoconutricepuddingCarrotpuddingBlackcurrantandmintpieBlackberryEtonmessRhubarbandorangebrownBettyRhubarbrouladeGooseberryandelderflowerfoolGreengageflapjack

RosemarysyllabubINFUSINGTIMEONLY

SERVES6–8

1large,freshrosemarysprig,plusextratogarnish4tbspdrywhitewine

4tbspbrandyGratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons,plusextratogarnish120g(4oz)castersugar500ml(18floz)doublecreamREMOVECLUMPSOFROSEMARYLEAVESfromthewoodystemandbruisethemwell.Puttheleavesinabowlandcoverwiththewineandbrandy.Addthelemonjuice,zestandsugar.Leavetosteepovernightorforaminimumofafewhourstoallowthefullflavouroftherosemarytoinfuse.

STRAINTHEINFUSEDWINEMIXTUREintoalargebowlandstirthecreamintotheinfusion.Whipuntilthickbutnotstiffandpourintoservingglasses.Servechilled,garnishedwithlemonzestandrosemary.Eatwithin24hoursorthesyllabubmayseparate.

VariationAsanalternativetorosemary,youcantrylemongeraniumleaves,rosepetals,elderflowers,lavenderorsweetcicely.Simplyinfusethewineandlemonjuicewithyourchosenflavourinthesamewayasdescribed.

ThesyllabubcanbetracedbacktomedievaltimesandforcenturiesremainedoneofthemostpopularandcommondessertsinBritain,untiltheendoftheVictorianerasawthearrivaloficecream.Whilstrosemarymightseeman

unusualingredienthere,itisactuallyveryauthentic.

QuinceamberCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)peeled,coredquinces50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar225g(8oz)freshwhitebread

3eggs,separatedPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andthoroughlygreasea20cm(8in)piedish.Quarterthequincesandcuteachpieceinhalfagain.Placeinasaucepanwiththebutterand50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveragentleheatuntilthefruitmixtureissoftandthick.

PROCESSTHEBREADintofinebreadcrumbsandstirintothefruitmixture,thenbeatintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintothegreaseddishandbakeintheovenfor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,INASCRUPULOUSLYcleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitestostiffpeaks.Addhalftheremainingsugarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisthickandshiny.Foldintheremainingsugarwithametalspoonandpilethemeringueontothecookedfruitbase.Returntotheovenandbakeforanother10minutes.Serveimmediately.

Thequinceisalargefruitrelatedtoapplesandpears,whichhasbeenenjoyingrenewedpopularityinrecentyears.Yellowwhenrawandpinkwhencooked,itsseasonisshort(lookforthembetweenOctoberandDecember)andtheyare

morelikelytobefoundatfarmers’marketsthaninyourlocalsupermarket.Thenameofthispuddingcomesfromthebeautifulgoldencolourofthetoasted

meringue.

LordRandall’spuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)driedapricots,chopped225g(8oz)thick-cutSevilleorangemarmalade225g(8oz)plainflour

1tspbicarbonateofsoda225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softdarkbrownsugar1largeegg,beaten

90ml(3floz)milkCustard,toserve

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcoverthebottomwithalittleofthechoppedapricotsandmarmalade.Sifttogethertheflourandbicarbonateofsodaintoalargebowl.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Oneatatime,addthebeatenegg,milk,siftedflourandsoda,andremainingapricotstothecreamedmixture,stirringwellaftereachaddition.Beatvigorouslyandfinallymixintherestofthemarmalade.

POURTHEMIXTUREintothegreasedbasinandcoversecurelywithalidorfoil.Steamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thisrecipecametous20yearsagoasacompetitionentry,althoughthewinnercouldn’texplainthename,asitwaspasseddownfromherlategrandmother.It’sprobablyinspiredbyaVictorianballad(madepopularbySteeleyeSpaninthe1980s),inwhichLordRandalllamentstohismotherthathe’sbeenpoisonedby‘eelsfriedinapan’(soourpuddingwasn’ttoblame!).Thisisthenameof

oneofourthemedPuddingRooms,whereyoucansleepsoundlyintheknowledgethatLordRandalliswatchingoveryou.

Tutti-fruttipuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES4–6

2½tbspgoldensyrup120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange

2eggs90g(3oz)self-raisingflour,sifted60g(2oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)stonedprunes,finelychopped60g(2oz)driedapricots,finelychopped60g(2oz)redglacécherries,finelychopped30g(1oz)greenglacécherriesorangelica,finelychoppedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcoverthebottomwiththegoldensyrup.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenstirinthegratedorangezest.Beattheeggsandgraduallyaddthemtothemixture.

MIXTHESIFTEDFLOURwiththebreadcrumbsandfoldlightlyintothepuddingmixture.Foldintheprunes,apricots,cherriesandangelica,alongwiththeorangejuice.Stirwellsothattheingredientsarefullyincorporated.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

PruneandmuscatpuddingsCOOKINGTIME1HOUR5MINUTES

MAKES6

Meltedbutter,forgreasing24pittedprunes(about250g/9oz)375ml(13floz)muscatorport100g(3½oz)castersugar175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature100g(3½oz)darkbrownmuscovadosugar2eggs

2tbspmilk85g(3oz)groundalmonds40g(1½oz)plainflour40g(1½oz)self-raisingflour½tspmixedspiceVanillaicecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Brushsixramekinsorindividual200ml(7floz)puddingbasinswithmeltedbutterandlinethebaseofeachwithacircleofnon-stickbakingparchment.

PLACETHEPRUNES,MUSCATAND250ml(9floz)waterintoalargesaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtoasimmer.Cookfor10minutesoruntiltheprunesaresoft.Liftoutthepruneswithaslottedspoonandplaceinamedium-sizedheatproofbowl.

ADDTHECASTERSUGARtothesaucepanofpruneliquidandcook,stirring,for3minutesoruntilthesugardissolves.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor10minutesoruntilthesyrupthickens–youneedabout190ml(6½floz)syrup.Pourthesyrupovertheprunesinthebowl.

INALARGEMIXINGBOWL,beatthebutterandbrownsugarwithanelectrichandmixeruntilpaleandcreamy.Addtheeggsoneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Stirinthemilkandfoldinthegroundalmonds,bothtypesofflourandthemixedspiceuntilwellmixed.

PLACEFOURPRUNESinthebottomofeachramekinorbasin,inasinglelayer.Add2teaspoonsofsyruptoeachramekintocovertheprunes.Reserveanyremainingsyrup.Spoonthespongemixtureintotheramekinsandsmooththesurfacewiththebackofthespoon.Covereachramekinwithlightlygreasedfoilandplace

theminaroastingtin.Pourenoughboilingwaterintothetintoreachhalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.

BAKEFOR40MINUTESoruntilaninsertedskewercomesoutclean.Removetheramekinscarefullyfromtheroastingtinandsetasidefor5minutestocoolslightlybeforeturningthepuddingsoutontoservingplates.Servewithvanillaicecreamanddrizzlethepuddingswithanyremainingsyrup.

ButterscotchtartCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled320g(11½oz)unsaltedbutter320g(11½oz)demerarasugar180ml(6½floz)milk

80g(3oz)plainflour,plusextrafordustingColdwhippedcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,anduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

MELTTHEBUTTERINASAUCEPANoveralowheatandmixinthedemerarasugaruntildissolved.Mixalittlemilkwiththeflourtoformapaste;addthisslowlytothebutterandsugarinthepan,alongwiththeremainingmilk.Graduallyheatthemixture,whiskingcontinuouslyuntilthebutterscotchcoatsthebackofaspoon.

POURTHEBUTTERSCOTCHintothecookedpastrycaseandallowtocoolbeforerefrigerating.Servecoldwithcoldwhippedcream.

LimemeringuepieCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilledFlour,fordusting110g(4oz)unsaltedbutterGratedzestof4limesandjuiceof88eggs,separated

4tspcornflour400g(14oz)castersugar

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thicknessanduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andblindbakethepastrycasefor20minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

TOPREPARETHEFILLING,meltthebutterinasaucepanoveralowheat,addthelimezestandjuiceandgentlyheatthrough.Whisktheeggyolksinabowluntilpaleandcreamy.Slowlyaddthemeltedbutterandlimemixturetotheyolks,whiskingcontinuouslyuntilwellcombined.Pourthemixturebackintothesaucepan.

MIXTHECORNFLOURwithalittlewatertoformapaste,addthistothelimeandyolkmixtureandcontinuetocookoveralowheat,stirringcontinuouslyuntilthemixturethickens.Setasideuntilneeded.

WHISKTHEEGGWHITESinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thengraduallyaddthecastersugar,whiskinguntilstiffpeaksform.Spoonthelimemixtureintothecookedpastrycaseandtopwiththemeringue.Tobrownthemeringue,youcaneitherplaceintheoven,preheatedto200°C(400°F),GasMark6,for10minutesoruseakitchenblowtorch.

LemoncurdrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix450g(1lb)lemoncurd

1tbspcastersugarCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuet,lemonzestandenoughmilktomakeadough.Rolloutthedoughonaflouredsurfacetoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththelemoncurd.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACETHEROLYPOLYINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,raisingonesideofthetinsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventitfromunravelling.Bakeintheovenfor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapinfoiltoholditsshapeandinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklewiththesugarandservewithcustard.

Makesureyoubuythebestavailablelemoncurd,orbetterstill,makeyourown!

LemonsurprisepuddingCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES4

Gratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter150g(5oz)castersugar

3eggs,separated75g(3oz)self-raisingflour450ml(16floz)milk

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andthoroughlygreaseadeep,ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beatthelemonzest,butterandsugaruntilpaleandcreamy.Addtheeggyolksandflourandmixwell.Graduallystirinthemilk,alongwith2–3tablespoonsoflemonjuice.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thenfoldthemintothepuddingmixturewithametalspoon.Pourthemixtureintothegreaseddish.Standthedishinaroastingtinandpourwaterintothetintoreachhalfwayuptheoutsideofthedish.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORABOUT45minutesuntilthetopissetandspongytothetouch.Thepuddingwillhaveseparatedintoacustardlayerunderneathwithaspongetopping.Serveimmediately.

MillenniumpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuet480g(1lb1oz)freshpeaches,stonedandchopped

1tbspsoftlightbrownsugarCustard,toserve

Forthelemonsyrup1lemon

1tbspgoldensyrup15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar

FIRSTMAKETHELEMONSYRUP.Peelthelemonasthinlyaspossibleandsqueezeoutthejuice.Puttherind,juiceandremainingsyrupingredientsintoasaucepan,add200ml(7floz)waterandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Leavetostanduntilneeded.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwithenoughwatertocreateafirmdough.

ROLLOUTTHEDOUGHonaflouredsurfacetoabout25cm(10in)squareand5mm(¼in)thick.Spreadthechoppedpeachesandbrownsugarevenlyoverthesquareandrollup,asyouwouldaSwissroll.Cutinto2.5cm(1in)slicesandarrangeflatinthegreaseddishwiththefruitfacingupwards.

REMOVETHELEMONRINDfromthesyrupandpourthesyrupovertheslicesinthedish.Bakeintheovenfor30minutesoruntilpuffedupandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustard.

ThisrecipewasaPuddingClubinvention,tomarkthebeginningoftheyear2000.Wewantedtocreateabrand-newtwistonthegreatBritishpuddingthat

wouldseeusintothe21stcentury.

OrientalgingerpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing180g(6½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt

2tspgroundginger90g(3oz)vegetablesuet45g(1½oz)softdarkbrownsugar45g(1½oz)stemginger,chopped3tbspgoldensyrup,warmed,plusextratoserve1egg,beaten

Custard,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttogethertheflour,saltandgroundgingerintoamixingbowl.Addthesuet,sugarandchoppedstemgingerandmixtocombine,thenaddthewarmedsyrupandbeateneggandmixwell.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOTHEGREASEDBASIN,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutontoawarmeddishandservewithextrasyrupandcustard.

AnotherofourPuddingRooms,whereyoucansleepunderthewatchfulgazeofafearsomegingerdragon.AlthoughcommonplaceinmanytraditionalBritishrecipes,gingerisfarfromnativetoourshores.ItappearedinBritaininthe1640s,importedfromAsia,butwasquicklyadoptedintoourowncuisine.

PearandgingercharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)Conferencepears,peeled,coredandchopped110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter

1tbspcastersugar6medium-thicknessslicesofbread,crustsremoved20g(¾oz)stemginger,chopped

1eggyolkCreamoricecream,toserve

PLACETHECHOPPEDPEARSinasaucepanwith25g(1oz)ofthebutterandthetablespoonofsugar.Cookoveralowheatuntilsoftandbrokendown.Removefromtheheatandpuréethepearsinthepanwithahandblender.Leavetocool.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Melttheremaining85g(3oz)ofbutterinasmallsaucepan,thenbrushitoveronesideofeachbreadslice,makingsurethebreadiswellcovered.Cutintorectanglesandusemostofthemtolinea20–25cm(8–10in)puddingbasinorroundcaketin,12cm(4½in)indepth,placingthepiecesbuttered-sidedownandslightlyoverlapping(reservealittlebreadforthetop).Pressthemonfirmly.

WHENTHEPEARPURÉEISCOOL,addthechoppedstemgingerandwhiskintheeggyolk,thenpourthemixtureintothebread-linedbasin.Coverwiththeremainingslicedbread,butter-sideup,andpressdownfirmly.Bakeintheovenfor45minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandcarefullyturnoutontoawarmplate.Servewithcreamoricecream.

CoconutricepuddingCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4

60g(2oz)puddingrice25g(1oz)goldencastersugar300ml(11floz)skimmedmilk300ml(11floz)coconutmilkFreshraspberries,toserve(optional)PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Puttherice,sugar,milkandcoconutmilkintoanon-sticksaucepanandgentlybringtotheboil,stirringoccasionallysothatthemixturedoesn’tsticktothepan.

POURINTOANOVENPROOFBAKINGDISHwithalidandbakeinthecentreoftheovenfor1–1½hours,untilcreamy.Servewithfreshraspberries(wheninseason).

WHYNOTTRY…?Thisisparticularlydeliciouswhenservedwithapuréeoffreshmango.

BlackcurrantandmintpieCOOKINGTIME35–40MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)blackcurrants,toppedandtailed2½tspfinelychoppedmint110g(4oz)castersugar,plusextraforsprinkling225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Plainflour,fordusting

Cream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Washtheblackcurrantsinacolanderandrinseseveraltimesunderrunningwater.Drainthoroughlyandputtheminashallow18–20cm(7–8in)piedishortin.Mixthechoppedmintwiththesugaranddistributeevenlyovertheblackcurrants.

ROLLOUTTHESHORTCRUSTPASTRYonaflouredsurfacetoathicknessof5mm(¼in).Coverthefillingwiththepastry,pressingitontotheedgesofthepiedishanddecoratingthetopwithpastryleavesorflowersmadefromthetrimmings.Withasharpknife,cutaslitinthecentreofthepastrytoptoallowsteamtoescapeduringcooking.

BRUSHTHEPASTRYWITHWATERandsprinklewithalittleextracastersugar.Bakethepieonthemiddleshelfoftheovenfor35–40minutesoruntilgolden.Servethepiecoldwithfreshcream.

BlackberryEtonmessCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES6

3largeeggwhites175g(6oz)goldencastersugar575ml(1pint)doubleorwhippingcream450g(1lb)freshblackberries(orfrozen)

1tbspicingsugarPREHEATTHEOVENtoaverylowsetting:approx.130–140°C(250–275°F),GasMark½–1.Lineaflatbakingsheetwithnon-stickbakingparchment.Tomakethemeringue,placetheeggwhitesinascrupulouslycleanbowlandwhiskuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Addthecastersugargradually,aspoonfulatatime,whiskingwellbetweeneachadditionuntilthesugaristhoroughlyincorporated.

SPOONTHEMERINGUEontotheparchmentandspreadoutuntilabout2cm(¾in)thick.Placethebakingsheetintheovenforapproximately1hour,thenturnofftheheatandleavethemeringueinsidetheoventodryout,untilcold.Themeringuecanthenbeusedimmediatelyorstoredinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

BREAKUPTHEMERINGUEINTO2cm(¾in)pieces.Inalargebowl,whipthecreamuntilsloppy.Inanotherbowl,mixtheblackberrieswiththeicingsugar.Combineallthreeingredients–themeringuepieces,creamandblackberries–andspoonintoglassbowls.Servechilled.

Ifyoupreferalesssweetversionofthis,youcanuseextra-thicknaturalyoghurtinsteadofwhippedcream.

RhubarbandorangebrownBettyCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES6

600g(1lb5oz)choppedrhubarb20g(¾oz)castersugarGratedzestandjuiceof2oranges25g(1oz)demerarasugar200g(7oz)crushedsweetbiscuits(digestivesorsimilar)50g(2oz)breadcrumbs

50g(2oz)flakedorchoppednuts50g(2oz)unsaltedbutterCreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(340°F),GasMark3–4.Mixtogetherthechoppedrhubarb,castersugar,orangejuiceandhalfthezest,andplaceinashallow,20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.Combinethedemerarasugarwiththecrushedbiscuits,breadcrumbsandnutsandspreadthisovertherhubarbmix.

PLACESMALLPIECESOFBUTTERacrossthetopofthecrumbmix.Bakeintheovenfor30–40minutesuntiltherhubarbistenderandcookedthroughandthecrumbtoppingiscrispandbrown.Servewithcreamoricecream.

RhubarbrouladeCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

SERVES6–8

4eggwhites325g(11½oz)castersugar

1tspvanillaessence1tspwhitewineormaltvinegar

1tspcornflour500g(1lb2oz)trimmedrhubarb,choppedinto3–5cm(1–2in)pieces

3gelatineleaves375ml(13floz)doublecream,plusoptionalextratoserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3.Covera25cm(10in)squarebakingsheetwithnon-stickbakingparchment.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenslowlyadd200g(7oz)ofthesugarwhilestillwhisking.Addthevanillaessence,vinegarandcornflourandwhiskuntilthemixtureisstiff.

SPREADTHEMERINGUEMIXEVENLYacrossthelinedbakingsheetandbakefor25minutes.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforecarefullyremovingthesoftmeringuefromtheparchment.

WHILETHEMERINGUEISCOOKING,placethechoppedrhubarbinamediumsaucepanwiththeremaining125g(4½oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveramedium–highheatforabout15minutesuntiltherhubarbiscookedandhasbrokendown.Discardtheliquidandallowtherhubarbtocool.

SOAKTHEGELATINELEAVESincoldwateruntilsoft.Removethesoftenedleavesfromthewaterandplaceinasmallsaucepanwith125ml(4½floz)ofthecream.Heatgentlytodissolvethegelatine,thenremovefromtheheatandallowthistocoolforafewminutes.Whiptheremainingcreamtosoftpeaks.

MIXTHETWOCREAMSTOGETHERandcarefullyfoldintherhubarb.Refrigeratethemixtureuntilithasbeguntostiffen.SpreaditevenlyoverthemeringueandcarefullyrolluplikeaSwissroll.

TOSERVE,sliceandenjoyonitsownorwithcream.

GooseberryandelderflowerfoolCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)gooseberries,toppedandtailed60g(2oz)granulatedsugar

10elderflowerheads1thickstripofparedlemonrind300ml(11floz)crèmefraîche

PUTTHEGOOSEBERRIESANDSUGARinalargesaucepanwith4tablespoonsofwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmergentlyuntilthefruitstartstosoften.

SETASIDEAFEWELDERFLOWERStouseasagarnish,thentietheremainingelderflowerheadsinamuslinbagwiththepieceoflemonrind.Addthistothepanandcontinuetosimmergentlyforafurther15minutes.

REMOVETHEELDERFLOWERBAGfromthepan,squeezingallofitsjuicesintothemixture.Useaforktoroughlymashthegooseberrymixture.Setasidetocool.

DIVIDEABOUTONEQUARTERofthegooseberrypuréeamongservingglasses.Foldthecrèmefraîcheintotheremaininggooseberrypuréeandaddthistotheglasses.Garnisheachglasswiththereservedelderflowers.

GreengageflapjackCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

500g(1lb2oz)greengages,stonedandhalved75g(3oz)castersugar90g(3oz)unsaltedbutter90g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar

1tbspgoldensyrup120g(4oz)porridgeoatsCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Placethegreengagehalvesinashallow,ovenproofbakingdishandsprinklewiththecastersugar.

PUTTHEBUTTER,BROWNSUGARandgoldensyrupinasaucepanandmeltoveragentleheat.Stirintheoats.Spreadthismixtureoverthegreengagesandbakeintheovenfor30minutesuntiltheflapjackisbrownandcrispontop.Servewithcustardorcream.

Ifyoucan’tfindgreengages,substitutewithanothertartfruit–damsonsworkwell,asdogooseberries.

CHOCOHOLICS&NUTCASES

CHAPTER6

Definitelythemostindulgentchapterinthisbook,thesepuddingsfitthebillwhensomethingabitspecialiscalledfor.Certaintreatsherewillgodownverywellwithkidsandadultsalike,suchasoursquidgychocolatepudding,oozingwithchocolatesauce;whilstthemore

sophisticatedhazelnutrouladeordarkchocolatepavéwillwowyourdinner-partyguests.Meanwhile,chocoholicswilldelightin

discoveringwaystointroducechocolateintootherBritishclassics,suchaschocolatebreadandbutterpuddingandawhitechocolateand

raspberrytrifle.

Chocoholics&Nutcases

ChestnutandchocolatepuddingVerychocolatepuddingSquidgychocolatepuddingsPruneandchocolatepuddingMarbledpuddingChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingHotmochapuddingWhitechocolateandraspberrytrifleChocolatemousseDarkchocolatepavéPecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppuddingWalnutandapplespongepuddingWalnutandtoffeetartMaple,walnutandbananapuddingDateandwalnutpuddingHazelnutroulade

ChestnutandchocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME2–2½HOURS

SERVES6

225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)darkchocolate,minimum50%cocoasolids,brokenup225g(8oz)self-raisingflour

5tbspcocoapowder4eggs,beaten225g(8oz)goldencastersugar180g(6½oz)cooked,peeledsweetchestnuts,chopped½tspvanillaessence

Chocolatesauce(seehere),toserveCreamorvanillaicecream,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthebutteranddarkchocolateinasaucepanandmeltoveralowheat.Sifttheflourandcocoapowdertogetherintoabowl,thenaddtothemeltedchocolate.Stirinthebeateneggs,sugar,chestnutsandvanillaessenceandmixwell.

POURTHEPUDDINGMIXTUREintothegreasedbasin.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor2–2½hours.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithextrachocolatesauce,andcreamorvanillaicecream.

It’simportanttousegood-qualityhigh-cocoacontentchocolatetogivethispuddingarich,deepflavour.

VerychocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar200g(7oz)self-raisingflour

5tbspcocoapowder3eggs,beaten60g(2oz)chocolatechipsCustardandchocolatesauce(seehere),toserveForthechocolatesauce170g(6oz)chocolate,50%cocoasolids,brokenup2–3tspcastersugar

125ml(4½floz)doublecreamGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Sifttheflourandcocoatogetherintoaseparatebowl,thenaddtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alternatingwiththebeatenegg,andbeatingwellaftereachaddition.Finally,stirinhalfthechocolatechips.

COVERTHEBASEOFTHEGREASEDBASINwiththeremainingchocolatechips,thenpourthespongemixtureontop.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.

TOMAKETHESAUCEplacealltheingredientsinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmeltedandthesugarhasdissolved.Mixwelltogetherandremovefromtheheat.Turnthepuddingoutontoaplateandservewithcustardandthechocolatesauce.

Thischocolatesauceisveryrich,soalittlegoesalongway.Ifyoupreferitalittlesweeter,addthethirdteaspoonofsugar(youcanwaittotastethesaucebeforechoosingwhetherornottoaddthis,butmakesuretogiveitenoughextratimeovertheheatfortheadditionalsugartodissolve).Anyleftoverscanbefrozenforupto2monthsinasealedrigidcontainer.Defrostatroom

temperaturefor2–3hoursorovernightinthefridge.

SquidgychocolatepuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

340g(12oz)unsaltedbutter,softened340g(12oz)softlightbrownsugar6eggs,beaten

280g(10oz)self-raisingflour70g(2½oz)cocoapowderExtrachocolatetopping(seehere)toserveCreamorvanillaicecream,toserveForthechocolatetopping170g(6oz)chocolate,70%cocoasolids

2tspcastersugar125ml(4½floz)doublecream

PLACEALLTHETOPPINGINGREDIENTSinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmeltedandthesugarhasdissolved.Mixwellandremovefromtheheat.

GREASEEIGHT200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addthebeateneggstothemixture–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Sifttheremainingflourandcocoapowdertogetherintoaseparatebowl,thenfoldthemintothecreamedmixture,stirringwelltoincorporate.Addalittlewaterifthemixtureseemsdry.

PLACEABOUT1HEAPEDTABLESPOONofthechocolatetoppingintoeach200ml(7floz)puddingbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlybetweenthebasinsandsealwithalidorfoil.Steamfor45–60minutes.Servewithextrachocolatetopping,andcreamorvanillaicecream.

Thismuch-lovedpuddingwastheinspirationforourChocolateSuite,themostluxuriousandpopularofourthemedPuddingRooms.Whereelsecanyousleep

inaboxofchocolates?

PruneandchocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME50–60MINUTES

SERVES6

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened150g(5oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten150g(5oz)self-raisingflour75g(3oz)cocoapowder200g(7oz)chopped,pittedprunes120ml(4floz)milkVanillaicecreamorwhippedcream,toserveForthesauce

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate,50%cocoasolids50g(2oz)castersugar

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallymixintheegg,thenbeatuntilwellcombined.Sifttheflourandcocoatogetherandfoldintothemixture,thenaddthechoppedprunesandmilkandmixwell.

TOMAKETHESAUCE,heatthechocolate,sugarand240ml(8½floz)waterinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmelted.Pourthesauceintoadeep,1.1-litre(2-pint),ovenproofbakingdish,pourthespongemixtureontopandlevelout.Bakeintheovenfor50–60minutes.Servehotwithvanillaicecreamorwhippedcream.

MarbledpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

150g(5oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutterormargarine,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar2eggs,beatenMilk,tomix

Gratedzestof1unwaxedlemon

2tbspgood-qualitycocoapowderChocolatesauce(seehere)orcustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsaltintoabowl.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddtheeggalittleatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Foldinhalftheflourwithametalspoon,thenrepeatwiththerest.Addmilkalittleatatimeuntilasoftdroppingconsistencyisreached.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREINTOTWOBOWLSandaddthelemonzesttoonebowl,stirringitinwell.Mixthecocoapowderwithalittlewatertoformapaste,andaddthispastetotheotherbowlofmixture,againstirringinwell.

PUTALTERNATESPOONFULSOFEACHMIXTUREintothegreasedbasintogiveamarbledeffect.Coverwithalidoradoublelayeroffoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Servehotwithchocolatesauceorcustard.

VariationForamorecolourfulpudding,theplainmixturecanbetintedwithafewdropsofpinkorredfoodcolouringandflavouredwithalmondessenceinsteadoflemonzest.

ChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

12slicesofwhitebread120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasingFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange300g(11oz)darkchocolate,55–70%cocoasolids

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarCocoapowder,todustCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Removethecrustsfromthebreadandbuttertheslicesononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthedishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup,andsprinklewithhalftheorangejuiceandzest.

BREAKTHECHOCOLATEINTOSMALLPIECESandsprinklehalfofitacrossthebread,thencoverwithanotherlayerofbread(againbutter-sideup),theremainingchocolate,juiceandzestandfinallytherestofthebread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELLandmixwiththemilkandsugar;pourthismixtureoverthebread.Leavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakefor30minutesoruntilset.Dustwithcocoapowderandservehotwithcustard.

HotmochapuddingCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing50g(2oz)darkbrownsugar

2eggs75g(3oz)self-raisingflour

1tbspcocoapowderCream,toserve

Forthemochasauce180g(6½oz)darkmuscovadosugar

2tbspcocoapowder225ml(8floz)milk

4tbspTiaMariaPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beattogetherthebutter,sugar,eggs,flourandcocoapowderuntillightandfluffy.Spoonthemixtureintothegreaseddish.

COMBINETHESUGARANDCOCOAPOWDERforthesauceandsprinkleoverthetopof

themixtureinthedish.MixthemilkandTiaMariatogetherandpourthisoverthetopofthecocoaandsugar:donotstirin.Bakeforapproximately1houruntilthespongeiscookedthrough.Servewithcream.

ArecentadditiontotheEnglishlanguage,theword‘mocha’describesanycombinationofchocolateandcoffee.ItderivesfromthetownofMocha,in

Yemen,whichwasamajortradingcentreforcoffeebeansbetweenthe15thand17thcenturies.Mochabeansarestillavailabletodayandprizedfortheir

distinctiveflavour.

WhitechocolateandraspberrytrifleCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES6–8

2Swissrolls(store-boughtorseehere)650g(1lb7oz)raspberries

1tbspkirsch450g(1lb)mascarponecheese300ml(11floz)doublecream200g(7oz)whitechocolateCUTTHESWISSROLLSINTOSLICESabout1cm(½in)thick.Usethesetolinethebottomandsidesofalargeglassservingdish.

PUTTHERASPBERRIESINABOWLandpourthekirschoverthem.Withaspoon,lightlypressthefruittoextractsomejuice.SpoonhalfoftheraspberriesandallofthejuiceandkirschovertheSwissrollinthedish.Putinthefridgefor30minutesuntilthejuicesaresoakedup.

MEANWHILE,COMBINETHEMASCARPONEandcreaminamixingbowlandbeatuntilcompletelycombined.Breakthreequartersofthechocolateintosmallpiecesandplaceinasmallheatproofbowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,ensuringthebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Stiruntilthechocolateisjustmeltedandsmooth.

SPOONHALFOFTHEMELTEDCHOCOLATEovertheraspberriesandSwissrollinthedishandmixtheotherhalfwiththemascarponeandcream.Addthemascarponecreamandremainingraspberriestothetrifleinlayers,finishingwithatoplayerofthecream.Gratetheremainingchocolateoverthetop.Refrigeratefor30minutesbeforeserving.

DarkchocolatepavéCOOKINGTIME15–20MINUTES

SERVES12

1.5litres(2½pints)doublecream350g(12oz)darkchocolate,55–70%cocoasolids

3gelatineleavesSoftredberriesand/ormintleaves,todecorate

LINEA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)terrinemouldwithclingfilm.Setaside150ml(5floz)ofthedoublecream.Whiptherestofthecreamtosoftpeaks.

MELTTHECHOCOLATEinaheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,ensuringthatthebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Meanwhile,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwateruntilsoft.Removefromthewaterandputinasmallsaucepanwiththereservedcream.Heatgentlyuntilthegelatinehasdissolved.

FOLDTHEWHIPPEDCREAMintothemeltedchocolate,thenaddthewarmcreamandgelatinemixture,foldingitingently.Pourthemixtureintothelinedmouldandrefrigeratefor2hoursoruntilset.Toserve,turnoutofthemouldontoaboardorcoldplate.Sliceanddecoratewiththeberriesand/ormintleaves.

Pecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppudding

COOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES6

50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing75g(3oz)softdarkbrownsugar

1tbspmaplesyrup1egg,beaten100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour

1tspgroundcinnamon3tbspmilk,ifrequired50g(2oz)pecannuts,choppedCustardorcream,toserveForthemaplesauce

25g(1oz)unsaltedbutter

5tspdoublecream40g(1½oz)maplesyrup

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethemaplesauce,putthebutter,doublecreamandmaplesyrupinasaucepan.Mixoveralowheatuntilcombined,thenbringtotheboilandsimmerfor2minutes.Pourthesauceintothebottomofthegreasedbasin.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthemaplesyrup.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg,justalittleatatime,then

foldintheflourandcinnamon.Ifnecessary,addmilkuntilthemixturereachesadroppingconsistency.Finally,stirinthechoppedpecannuts.

SPOONTHEMIXTUREontopofthesauceinthepuddingbasin.Sealwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustardorcream.

WalnutandapplespongepuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES6

175ml(6floz)milk2tspvanillaessence2tbspcornflour

3eggs200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

5tbspbrandy3eatingapples,peeled,coredandsliced75g(3oz)shelledwalnuts,chopped75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)plainflour1½tspbakingpowderWhippedcreamorGreekyoghurt,toserveCOMBINETHEMILK,vanillaessence,cornflour,oneeggand50g(2oz)ofthesugarinasaucepanandwhiskoveragentleheatuntilthemixturethickensintocustard.Pourintoabowlandsetasidetocool.

PUT50g(2oz)ofthesugarintoafryingpan,alongwiththebrandyand5tablespoonsofwater.Addtheapplesandwalnutsandcookoverahighheatuntiltheliquidevaporates.Setasidetocool.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseadeep,1.5-litre(2½-pint),ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beattheremaining100g(3½oz)ofsugarwiththebutteruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthetworemainingeggsandmixtoincorporate.Addtheflourandbakingpowderandmixwell.

CHOPUPTHESETCUSTARDandfoldintothespongemixture,thenpourintothegreaseddishandspreadtheappleandwalnutmixoverthetop,pressingthefruitandnutsintothepuddingmixture.Bakefor45–50minutes,thenservewarm,withwhippedcreamorGreekyoghurt.

WalnutandtoffeetartCOOKINGTIME55MINUTES

SERVES6

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled250g(9oz)castersugar300ml(11floz)whippingcream180g(6½oz)walnuts

Icecreamorwhippedcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,anduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratethelineddishfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).

WHILETHEPASTRYISCOOKING,putthesugarandcreaminasaucepanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Bringtotheboilandremoveimmediatelyfromtheheat.Stirinthewalnuts.

REMOVETHEPASTRYCASEFROMTHEOVEN,andturndownthetemperatureto190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Pourthewalnutfillingintothecookedcase,returntotheovenandbakeforafurther35minutes.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool,thenrefrigerateandservecoldwithicecreamorwhippedcream.

Maple,walnutandbananapuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing70g(2½oz)choppedwalnuts110ml(4floz)maplesyrup2mediumor1largeripebanana(s)175g(6oz)self-raisingflour75g(3oz)vegetablesuet90g(3oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten70ml(2½floz)milkCustard,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandputhalfofthewalnutsintothebottomwithjustenoughofthemaplesyruptocoverthem.

PEELANDSLICETHEBANANAandmixwiththeflour,suet,sugarandremainingwalnuts.Addthebeatenegg,milkandremainingmaplesyrupandmixtoasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREOVERTHEWALNUTSandsyrupinthebasinandcoverwithalidorfoil.Steamfor1½hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Servewithcustard.

ThisunusualcombinationofflavoursoftencausesconsternationamongstPuddingClubguests,butitiswonderfullysuccessfulandtheyarealways

silencedafterthefirstmouthful.

DateandwalnutpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES6

Butter,forgreasing175g(6oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt75g(3oz)shreddedsuet50g(2oz)castersugar50g(2oz)choppeddates50g(2oz)choppedwalnutsGratedzestof1unwaxedlemonApprox.150ml(5floz)milkCustardortoffeesauce(seehere),toserveGREASEA1.1LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,combinetheflour,salt,suet,sugar,dates,walnutsandlemonzest.Makeawellinthecentreandaddenoughmilktoreachadroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOTHEGREASEDBASINandsmooththesurface.Coverthebasinwithalidordoublelayeroffoil.Steamfor1½–2hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Servewarmwithcustardorwithalittletoffeesauce.

WHYNOTTRY…?Whilecustardistheobviousoptionhere,thispuddingisparticularlydelicious

servedwithalittlestickytoffeesauce(seehere).

HazelnutrouladeCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

SERVES6–8

4eggwhites200g(7oz)castersugar1tspvanillaessence

1tspcornflour1tspwhitewineormaltvinegar

3gelatineleaves375ml(13floz)doublecream,plusextratoserve100g(3½oz)pralinepaste/hazelnutpurée(seetiphere)PREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3.Whisktheeggwhitesinalarge,scrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thengraduallyaddthesugar,continuingtowhiskasyoudoso.Addthevanillaessence,cornflourandvinegarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisstiff.

LINEABAKINGTRAYwithnon-stickbakingparchmentandspreadthemeringuemixevenlyintoasquareofapproximately25cm(10in).Cookintheovenfor25minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforecarefullyremovingthesoftmeringuefromtheparchment.

SOAKTHEGELATINELEAVESincoldwateruntilsoft.Removefromthewater,andputinasmallsaucepanwith125ml(4½floz)ofthecream.Heatgentlytodissolvethegelatine.Whiptheremainingcreamtosoftpeaks.

MIXTHETWOCREAMSTOGETHERandcarefullyfoldinthepralinepaste.

Refrigeratethemixtureuntilithasbeguntostiffen,thenspreadevenlyoverthemeringueandcarefullyrolluplikeaSwissroll.Sliceandservewithalittlecream.

Ifyou’restrugglingtofindthehazelnutorpralinepasteusedinthisrecipe,lookforabrandcalledCallebaut,whichcanbefoundinsomedelicatessensor

boughtonline.

SUMMERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER7

Perfectforwarm,sunnydays,thisselectionofgorgeousrecipesmakesthemostoffreshsummerflavours,includingapricots,cherries,gooseberries,peachesandelderflowers.Getthatholidayfeelingwithafloatingisland,refreshyourguestswithasmoothlemonposset,ortryyourhandattheworld-famouspeachMelba.Andthere’scertainly

noneedtoshunhotpuddingsatthistimeofyear;thischaptersuggestslighter,sponge-basedoptionsandrefreshinglysharpfruitbakesthataredeliciousattheendofabarbecueoralfrescosupper.

SummerPuddings

PeachMelbaBakedpeachesApricotandalmondpuddingsApricottansyApricotturnoversAppleandapricotlayerpuddingHolidaypuddingPlumandcinnamoncobblerSteamedplumspongeBlackcurrantandlemonspongepuddingGooseberryandalmondpuddingGooseberryandorangepuddingGooseberryandelderflowercrumbleGooseberryandelderflowerlayerpuddingLemonpossetLemonlayerpuddingRaspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleBlackberrycharlotteLatticecherrypieFloatingisland

PeachMelbaCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES6

3tbspcastersugar

6ripepeaches375g(13oz)raspberriesGood-qualityvanillaicecream,toserve

PLACE600ml(1pint)waterinasaucepan,addthecastersugarandheattoagentlesimmer.Addthewholepeachestothepanandpoachuntiltender,overalowheat,for15–20minutes.Removethepeachesfromtheliquidandleavetocool.Keepsomeofthepoachingliquortouselater.

ONCETHEPEACHESARECOOL,cutinhalfandremovethestones.Youcanalsoskinthem,ifyouwish.Puttheraspberriesinablenderwith1–2tablespoonsofthepoachingliquorandblitztoapurée.Pushthepuréethroughasievetoremovetheseeds.

TOSERVE,PLACEASCOOPofvanillaicecreamintoeachsmallservingbowl,addtwopoachedpeachhalvesandspoonsomeraspberrypuréeoverthetop.

VariationTryusingfreshblackcurrantstomakethepurée,insteadofraspberries.Theblackcurrantswillneedtobecookedgentlybeforeyoublendthem.

Thissimplebutdeliciousdessertwasinventedbytheworld-famouschefEscoffier,inhonourofAustraliansopranoDameNellieMelba,whenshevisitedtheSavoyinthelate19thcentury.Icecreamwasstillanexoticnewarrivalin

Britainatthetime.

BakedpeachesCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES4

15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing1tbspcastersugar

1eggyolk50g(2oz)amarettiorratafiabiscuits,crumbled

4largeripepeachesornectarinesCreamoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andlightlygreaseanovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggyolkandstirinthecrumbledbiscuits.

IFYOUAREUSINGPEACHES(noneedifusingnectarines),placetheminasaucepanandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavefor2–3minutes,thendrainthewaterandpeelofftheskins.Halvethepeachesornectarinesandremovethestones.Enlargethecavitiesbyscoopingoutsomeofthefleshwithateaspoonandaddingthepulptothebiscuitmixture.

PILETHEBISCUITSTUFFINGintothepeachhalvesandarrangeinthebakingdish.Bakeintheovenfor20–30minutesuntilthepeachesaresoftbutstillholdingtheirshape.Servewarmwithcreamoricecream.

ApricotandalmondpuddingsCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

MAKES8

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggs100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour

1tspalmondessence50g(2oz)groundalmonds240g(8½oz)stoned,dicedfreshapricots(orcookeddriedapricots)40ml(1½floz)goldensyrupCustardoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseeight200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsgradually–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Addthealmondessence,thenfoldintheremainingflourandgroundalmonds.

PLACE30g(1oz)oftheapricotsandabout1teaspoonofthesyrupinthebottomofeachgreasedbasin.Dividethespongemixtureevenlybetweenthebasinsandcoverwithlidsorfoil.Bakeforapproximately15minutes,untilfirmtothetouchandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardoricecream.

ApricottansyCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4–6

50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter450g(1lb)fresh,ripeapricots,stonedandquartered75g(3oz)castersugar,plusextraforserving4eggs,plus2yolks

2tbspdoublecream75g(3oz)finewhitebreadcrumbsPinchofgroundnutmegCream,toserve

MELT35g(1½oz)ofthebutterinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveragentleheat.Addtheapricotsandsprinklewith50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookgentlyuntilsoftenedbutnotcoloured.

BEATTOGETHERTHEWHOLEEGGS,eggyolks,cream,breadcrumbs,nutmegandtheremaining25g(1oz)ofsugar.Pourthisovertheapricotsinthepan,stirringtogetherintoonethicklayer.Cookgentlyuntilgoldenbrownunderneath.Turnoutontoaplate.

MELTTHEREMAININGBUTTERinthepanandcarefullyslidethetansybackintothepantocooktheothersideuntilgoldenbrown.Turnoutontoawarmplateandsprinklewiththeextrasugar.Servewithcream.

Notunlikeasweetomelette,atansywouldoncehavebeenflavouredwiththebittersweetjuiceofthetansyplant,aherbthatisthesedaysallbutforgotten.

ApricotturnoversCOOKINGTIME30–35MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)fresh,ripeapricots,stonedandquarteredJuiceof1lemon¼tspgroundcinnamon75g(3oz)castersugar450g(1lb)puffpastryFlour,fordusting

1eggVanillaicecream,toserve

PUTTHEAPRICOTSINASAUCEPANwiththelemonjuice,cinnamon,50g(2oz)ofthesugarand1tablespoonofwater.Heatgentlyuntilthefruithassoftened,stirringoccasionally,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperature.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Rolloutthepuffpastryonaflouredsurface,andcutoutsix15cm(6in)squares.Place3tablespoonsofthefruitmixtureintothecentreofeachsquare.Beattheeggwithalittlewater,andbrushsomeoftheeggmixtureontotheedgesofthepastry.Foldthepastryovertoformtrianglesandpressfirmlytoseal.

BRUSHTHETOPOFTHETRIANGLESwithmoreoftheeggmixtureandsprinklewiththeremainingcastersugar.Bakefor20–25minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithvanillaicecream.

AppleandapricotlayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

2mediumeatingapples160g(5½oz)goldensyrup90g(3oz)raisins300g(11oz)choppeddriedapricots

1tspmixedspiceButter,forgreasingCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,sifted,plusextrafordusting110g(4oz)vegetablesuet30g(1oz)castersugar160ml(5½floz)milkTOMAKETHESUETPASTRY,mixtheingredientsinalargebowlandbringthedoughtogetherwithyourhands.Rolloutonaflouredsurfaceandcutoutfourcircles,graduatinginsizetofita1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasin.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLESandchopintosmallpieces.Warmthegoldensyrupinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave,thenmixwiththeapples,raisins,apricotsandmixedspice.

GREASETHEBASINandputthesmallestpastrycircleinthebase.Topwithalayerofthefruitmixture.Addthenextcircleofpastryandrepeatthelayers,untilyoufinishwiththelargestcircleofpastry.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

HolidaypuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

2tbspgoldensyrup1×225gtinofpineapplerings,drained60g(2oz)glacécherries120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar2largeeggs,beaten

90g(3oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt60g(2oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)raisins30g(1oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel30g(1oz)choppedwalnutsCustard,toserveGREASEA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)puddingbasinandlinethebasewithacircleofgreaseproofpaper.Putthegoldensyrupintothebasinandarrangeonedrainedpineappleringinthebottomwithacherryinthecentre.Cuttworingsinhalfandarrangethesehalvesaroundthefirstring.Putacherryineachhole.Choptheremainingpineappleringsandglacécherries.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthebeateneggs.Sifttheflourandsaltintoaseparatebowlandaddtothecreamedmixturealongwiththebreadcrumbs.Mixwelltoincorporate,thenstirinalltheraisins,peelandnuts.

PILETHEMIXTUREONTOPofthearrangedfruit.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

There’sabrightandcheerfultropicaltreatwaitingtoberevealedwhenyouturnthispuddingout.

SteamedplumspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

1kg(2lb2oz)freshplums230g(10oz)castersugar170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing

3eggs,beaten170g(6oz)self-raisingflour,sifted50ml(2floz)plumbrandyorslivovitzCustard,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Stoneandquartertheplumsandplaceinamediumsaucepanwith60g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookgentlyforabout5minutesuntiltheplumsbegintosoften.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittle.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandremainingsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallybeatintheeggs,thenmixintheflourandplumbrandy.Mixwelltocombine.

PUTTHREEQUARTERSOFTHESOFTENEDPLUMSinthebottomofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixtureontop.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Servewithcustardandtheremainingplums,reheatedcarefullysothattheydonotovercook.

Blackcurrantandlemonspongepudding

COOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

100g(3½oz)good-qualityblackcurrantjam,plusextratoserve200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)goldencastersugar

3largeeggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflourGratedzestof½unwaxedlemonCreamorcustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandplacetheblackcurrantjaminthebase.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.

FOLDINTHEREMAININGFLOURandthelemonzestandspoonthespongemixtureoverthejaminthegreasedbasin.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Oncecooked,turnoutontoaplateandservewithcreamorcustard,plusextrajamifyouwish.

GooseberryandalmondpuddingCOOKINGTIME40–50MINUTES

SERVES4

250g(9oz)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed110g(4oz)castersugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened

1egg30g(1oz)self-raisingflour30g(1oz)groundalmondsCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Putthegooseberriesinanovenproofbakingdishandsprinklewith50g(2oz)ofthesugar.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandremaining60g(2oz)ofsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheegg.Sifttheflourandfoldthisintothemixture,alongwiththegroundalmonds.Coverthegooseberrieswiththismixture.

BAKETHEPUDDINGINTHEOVENFOR40–50minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenbrownandhasrisen.Servewithcustard.

Ifyouusefrozengooseberries,defrostfirstanddrainofftheexcessliquid.

GooseberryandorangepuddingCOOKINGTIME40–50MINUTES

SERVES6

900g(2lb)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed

2tbspdarkmuscovadosugarFinelygratedzestof1orangeFewdropsofvanillaessence175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing175g(6oz)goldencastersugar

3largeeggs175g(6oz)self-raisingflourCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseamedium-sizedovenproofbakingdish.Putthegooseberriesintothedishandsprinklewiththemuscovadosugar,orangezestandvanillaessence.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenbeatintheeggs.Siftintheflourandstiruntilincorporated.Spreadthemixtureoverthegooseberriesandbakefor40–50minutesuntilthespongehasbrowned.Ifitlookslikethepuddingisbrowningtooquickly,coverwithfoil.Servewithcustard.

GooseberryandelderflowercrumbleCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES8

650g(1lb7oz)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed250ml(9floz)elderflowercordialCastersugar,totaste

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)margarine

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces

1tspvanillaessenceCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Putthegooseberriesinalargesaucepanwiththeelderflowercordialandpoachoveralowheatfor10–15minutes,untilthefruitislightlycookedbutstillholdingitsshape.Removefromtheheatandaddcastersugartotaste.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHECRUMBLETOPPINGbysiftingtheflourintoalargebowlandmixinginthedemerarasugar.Addthemargarine,butterandvanillaessencetothebowlandmixwithyourfingertipstotheconsistencyoffinecrumbs.

POURTHEGOOSEBERRIESandtheirpoachingliquidintoadeep,ovenproofbakingdish,distributethecrumblemixontopandpressdowntofirm.Cookintheovenfor45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Thisrecipecombinestwoverytraditional(andmuchunderused)Britishingredientstogiveasurprisinglymoderntwistontheclassicfruitcrumble.The

resultiswonderfullysweetandfragrant.

Gooseberryandelderflowerlayerpudding

COOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES6–8

900g(2lb)greengooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed

3elderflowerheads600g(1lb5oz)castersugar50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremoved225ml(8floz)milk

450ml(16floz)doublecream4largeeggs,lightlybeaten

1tspvanillaessence15g(½oz)softlightbrownsugarCreamorcrèmefraîche,toserve

PUTTHEGOOSEBERRIES,ELDERFLOWERSAND450g(1lb)ofthecastersugarinamediumsaucepanandstirverygentlyoveramediumheatuntilthegooseberrieshavesplitopen.Removetheelderflowersanddiscardthem.

BUTTERTHEBREADandarrangefourslices,butter-sidedown,inasinglelayerina20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.Spreadaboutathirdofthegooseberrymixtureoverthebread,thentopwithanotherfourpiecesofbread,butter-sidedown.Addanotherthirdofthegooseberrymix,thentopwiththefinalfourslicesofbread,againbutter-sidedown,tocompletethelayers.Keepthefinalthirdofthegooseberrymixtureforserving.

INABOWL,WHISKTOGETHERthemilk,cream,eggs,vanillaessenceandremaining150g(5oz)ofcastersugar,thenpourthisoverthetopofthepudding.Sprinklethebrownsugaroverthetop,andallowthepuddingtorestforanhour.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Placethebakingdishina

largeroastingtinandpourwaterintothetintocomehalfwayupthesidesofthedish.Bakeintheovenfor1houroruntilthetopofthepuddingisgoldenbrown.Servewarmwiththereservedgooseberrymixtureandcreamorcrèmefraîche.

LemonpossetCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES6

550ml(19floz)doubleorwhippingcream140g(5oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof2largeunwaxedlemons

6spongefingerbiscuitsPUTTHECREAMANDSUGARinalargesaucepanandgraduallybringtotheboil.Simmerfor3minutesthenremovefromtheheat.Whiskinthelemonjuiceandzestuntilcompletelyincorporated.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOSIXSERVINGGLASSESorramekinsandchillforabout2hours.Gentlydipthespongefingerbiscuitsintothepossetjustbeforeserving.

Datingbacktothe15thcentury,thepossetbeganlifeasadrinkmadefrommilkandflavouredwithspices,devisedasaremedyforillness.ItevenappearsinShakespeare,whenLadyMacbethuses‘drugg’d’possetstopoisontheguards

whoblockherway.

LemonlayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½–3HOURS

SERVES6

2eggs180g(6½oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasingCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowlandmixinthesuet.Addenoughcoldwatertoformasoftdough.

ROLLOUTHALFOFTHEPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceanduseittolinethegreasedbasin.Dividetherestofthepastryroughlyintotwo,androllthesepiecesouttomakelayersofpastrythatgraduateinsizeforthemiddleandtopofthepudding.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,beattogethertheeggs,sugar,lemonzestandjuiceandmeltedbutter.Pourhalfofthismixtureintothelinedbasin,addthecentrallayerofpastry,pourintheremainingmixtureandtopwiththefinallayerofpastry.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Raspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour185g(6½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

60g(2oz)flakedornibbedalmonds

1tspalmondessence250g(9oz)raspberries450g(1lb)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingappleCastersugar,totasteCustardorwhippedvanillacream(seebox),toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Sifttheflourintoalargebowlandmixinthedemerarasugar.Addthebutterandmargarineandmixwithyourfingertipstoafinecrumbconsistency.Addthealmondsandalmondessenceandmixthrough.

MIXTOGETHERTHERASPBERRIES,appleandcastersugarandplaceinthebaseofadeep,30cm(12in),ovenproofbakingdish.Addthecrumbletoppingandfirmdownalittle.Bakeintheovenforapproximately45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorwhippedvanillacream.

WHYNOTTRY…?Thispuddingislovelyservedwithvanilla-flavouredwhippedcream.Simplyaddalittlevanillaextract,ortheseedsfromavanillapod,todoubleorwhipping

creamandwhipasnormal.

BlackberrycharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

110g(4oz)castersugar,plusextratotaste450g(1lb)blackberries1½tbspcornflour

2eggs,separated4½tbspdoubleorwhippingcream,plusextratoserveJuiceof½lemon110g(4oz)spongefingerbiscuits110g(4oz)icingsugar

PUTTHECASTERSUGARand275ml(½pint)waterinapanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addtheblackberriesandcookoveralowheatfor10minutes.Strainandreservethesyrup,puttingtheblackberriestooneside.

TOMAKETHEBLACKBERRYCREAM,putthecornflourinasmallsaucepanandgraduallyblendin275ml(½pint)ofthesyrup(reservetheremainingsyruptouseinthemeringue).Cookforafewminutes,stirring,thenremovefromtheheat.Beattheeggyolksandcreamintothecornflourmixture.Addthelemonjuiceandmoresugarifrequired.

CUTOFFONEROUNDEDENDOFEACHspongefinger.Pourenoughoftheblackberrycreamintoa570ml(1-pint)ovenproofglassorPyrexsoufflédishtocoverthebottomandstandthespongefingers,cut-sidedownandsugar-sideout,aroundtheinsideedgeofthedishuntilcompletelylined.Arrangealayerofthereservedblackberriesoverthecream,followedbyanotherlayerofcream,repeatinguntiltheberriesandcreamareusedup.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Puttheeggwhites,icingsugarand4½tablespoonsoftheblackberrysyrupinamedium–largeheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Whiskuntilthemeringuereachessoftpeaks.Removethebowlfromtheheatandkeepwhiskinguntilthemeringuehascooled.Pileorpipethemeringueontothetopofthepuddingandbakefor20minutes.Leavetocoolandservecoldwithwhippedcream.

LatticecherrypieCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES4

250g(9oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)500g(1lb2oz)cherries75g(3oz)castersugar

1tbspcornflour30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingSqueezeoflemonjuice1egg,beaten

Pouringcream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Lightlygreasea20cm(8in)shallowpiedish.Rolloutthechilledpastryonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,andlinethepiedish(seehere).Keepthepastrytrimmings.

REMOVETHESTEMSANDSTONESfromthecherries.Putthefruitinasaucepanwiththesugar,cornflour,butter,lemonjuiceand1tablespoonofwater.Gentlybringtotheboilandcookfor1minute.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolslightly,thenspoonintotheuncookedpastrycase.

MAKEALATTICETOPfromthepastrytrimmings.Brushthetopwithalittlebeateneggandbakethepieintheovenfor30–40minutesuntilthepastryiscookedandgoldenbrown.Servewithpouringcream.

FloatingislandCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter100g(4oz)sugaredalmonds,inmixedcolours

4eggs,separated250g(9oz)castersugar,plusextraforthetin275ml(½pint)milkFewdropsofvanillaessence

PREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(350°C),GasMark3–4.Usethebuttertogreaseadeep,round,15cm(6in)caketinandcoatitwithalittlesugar.Wrapthesugaredalmondsinacleanteatowelandcrushthemcoarselywitharollingpin.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thengraduallyadd110g(4oz)ofthesugar,continuingtowhiskasyoudoso.Gentlyfoldafurther110g(4oz)ofthesugarintotheeggwhiteswithametalspoon.

POURONETHIRDOFTHISMERINGUEMIXTUREintothepreparedtin,followedbyhalfthecrushedalmonds,afurtherthirdoftheegg-whitemixture,therestofthealmondsandfinallyatoplayerofmeringue.Placethecaketininaroastingtinandpourboilingwateraroundittoadepthofabout2.5cm(1in).Bakefor30minutesthenremovefromtheovenandleavetocool.

WHILETHISISCOOKING,beattheeggsyolkswiththeremaining30g(1oz)ofsugar.Heatthemilkinasmallsaucepanuntilalmostboiling,thenstirintheegg-yolkmixture.Blendthoroughlyandstrainintoaheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Stirgentlyforabout10minutesuntilyouhavethickeningcustard.Removefromtheheat,addafewdropsofvanillaessenceandallowthecustardtocool,stirringregularlytopreventaskinforming.Pourthecooledcustardintoalarge,deep,roundbowl.Carefullyloosenthemeringuefromthetinwithasmallknifeandplaceontothecustard.Servecold.

WINTERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER8

Astheweathergrowscolderandthenightsdrawin,whatbetterwaytowarmyourcocklesthanwithagenerousbowlofsomething

steamingandsweet?Inthischapteryou’llfindanarrayofhot,heartypuddings,alongwithideasforusinguptheglutofpears,blackberriesandotherlate-autumnfruits.Therearealsoplentyofrecipesforthefestiveseason,givingyouthechoiceofatraditionalChristmaspud,amodernversionthatcanbecookedentirelyinthemicrowave,orthequick-to-makeStNick’spuddingforthosewhopreferalighteroption.Andinsteadoftraditionalmincepies,whynotserveyourguestsourmincemeattartorrolypolyalongwithmulledwinejelly

foraChristmaspartywithadifference?

WinterPuddings

AppleandmincemeatpuddingBramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddingsAppleandcinnamonamberElderberry,blackberryandapplepuddingAutumnpearpuddingPearandgingerupside-downpuddingPearspoachedinmulledwineRaisingingerpuddingSevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpuddingBloodorangepuddingsFiggypuddingAmodernChristmaspuddingOldHookyChristmaspuddingPlumduffStNick’spuddingsChristmaspuddingMincemeatrolypolyMulledwinejellyMincemeattartSpicedwinterfruitsalad

AppleandmincemeatpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

1tbspbrandy140g(5oz)mincemeat150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)castersugar3eggs,beaten

170g(6oz)self-raisingflour1tbspbakingpowder

2smalleatingapplesCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Stirthebrandyintothemincemeatandplaceinthebottomofthegreasedbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thengraduallymixinthebeateneggs.

SIFTTHEFLOURANDBAKINGPOWDERtogetherandfoldintothecreamedmixture.Coreandroughlychoptheapplesinto1cm(½in)piecesandstirintothemixture.Pourthespongemixtureoverthemincemeatinthebasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Servewithcustard.

Ifyoudon’tmakeyourownmincemeatbuyaready-madeversionandaddmorebrandy,cherry,almondsorwhateveryoufancy.

Bramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddings

COOKINGTIME15MINUTES

MAKES6

115g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing115g(4oz)castersugar

2eggs½tspvanillaessenceGratedunwaxedlemonzest,totaste115g(4oz)self-raisingflour

2tbspmilkCreamorcustard,toserveFortheappleandlemoncurd225g(8oz)Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandchoppedGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon65g(2½oz)unsaltedbutter125g(4½oz)granulatedsugar50ml(2floz)freshlemonjuice2eggs,beatenFIRSTMAKETHEAPPLEANDLEMONCURD.Putthechoppedapplesinasaucepanwiththelemonzestand50ml(2floz)water.Cookuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheatandpushthroughasieveorprocessinthepanwithahandblenderuntilyouhaveasmoothpurée.

PUTTHEAPPLEPURÉEintoalargeheatproofbowlwiththebutter,sugarandlemonjuiceandsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Assoonasthebutterhasmelted,pressthebeateneggthroughasieveintothebowlandwhisktocombine.(Ifyouhaveacookingthermometer,makesurethemixtureisnotabove55°Cwhenaddingtheegg,oritwillscramble.)Stiroveragentleheatuntilthemixtureisthickandcreamy;thiswilltakeabout5–6minutes.Leavetocool.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleand

fluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggs–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Addthevanillaessenceandlemonzest.Foldintheremainingflourinstages,thenaddmilkuntiladroppingconsistencyisachieved.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasesix200ml(7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Place40g(1½oz)ofthecooledappleandlemoncurdintoeachpuddingbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlyamongthepuddingmoulds.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORapproximately15minutesuntilfirmtothetouchandgolden.Removefromtheovenandturnoutontoservingplates.Servewithcreamorcustard.

AppleandcinnamonamberCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)peeled,coredcookingapples50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar225g(8oz)freshwhitebread½tspgroundcinnamon

3eggs,separatedPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea20cm(8in)piedish.Quartertheapplesandcuteachpieceinhalfagain.Putinasaucepanwiththebutterand50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveragentleheatuntilthefruitmixtureissoftandthick.

PROCESSTHEBREADINTOFINEBREADCRUMBSandstirintothefruitmixturealongwiththecinnamon.Beattheeggyolksintothemixture,pourintothepiedishandbakeintheovenfor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,WHISKTHEEGGWHITESinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformstiffpeaks.Addhalftheremainingsugarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisthickandshiny.Foldintheremainingsugarwithametalspoonandpilethemeringueontothecookedfruitbase.Returntotheovenandbakeforanother10minutes,thenserveimmediately.

Elderberry,blackberryandapplepudding

COOKINGTIME40–55MINUTES

SERVES6–8

450g(1lb)cookingapples,peeled,coredandsliced110g(4oz)blackberries50g(2oz)elderberries,stalksremoved

1heapedtbspseedlessraspberryjam175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing150g(5oz)lightbrownmuscovadosugar

1tbspgoldensyrup4eggs,beaten110g(4oz)self-raisingflour110g(4oz)groundalmonds

1tspbakingpowder½tspalmondextractCreamoricecream,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Puttheapples,blackberries,elderberriesandjamintoasaucepan,coverwithalidandcookgentlyfor10–15minutesuntilsoft.Pourintothebakingdish.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Inamixingbowl,beattogetherthebutter,sugarandgoldensyrupuntilpale,thengraduallyaddtheeggs,beatingwellbetweeneachaddition.Foldintheflour,groundalmonds,

bakingpowderandalmondextract.Pourontothefruitmixtureinthebakingdish.Smooththetopandbakeintheovenfor30–40minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenbrownandfirmtothetouch.Ifitlookslikeitisbrowningtooquicklyduringcooking,coverwithfoil.Servewithcreamoricecream.

AutumnpearpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)sultanas90g(3oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten120g(4oz)goldensyrupFinelygratedzestandjuiceof½orange1largepear,peeled,coredandchoppedorgratedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowlandmixinthebreadcrumbs,suet,sultanasandsugar.

BLENDTHEBEATENEGGwiththegoldensyrup,orangejuiceandzest,thenmixintothedrymixturealongwiththechoppedorgratedpear.Stirwellandpourintothepuddingbasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Pearandgingerupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME45–55MINUTES

SERVES6

165g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing140g(5oz)softdarkbrownsugar3pears,peeled,coredandquartered30g(1oz)stemginger,chopped115g(4oz)blacktreacle115g(4oz)goldensyrup2tspgroundcinnamon

2tspgroundginger¼tspgroundnutmeg2eggs,beaten150ml(5floz)milk225g(8oz)plainflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowderCustardoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Greaseadeep,round,23cm(9in)caketinandlinewithgreaseproofpaper.Put50g(2oz)ofthebutterand70g(2½oz)ofthesugarinasaucepanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Pourintothebaseofthelinedtin,arrangethequarteredpearsontopandsprinklewiththechoppedstemginger.

PLACETHEREMAININGBUTTERANDSUGARinasaucepanwiththetreacleandgoldensyrup.Heatgentlyuntilcombined,thenremovefromtheheatandaddthecinnamon,gingerandnutmeg,followedbythebeateneggandthemilk.Finallyaddthesiftedflourandbakingpowderandmixtoformasmoothbatter.

POURTHEBATTEROVERTHEPEARSinthetinandbakeintheovenfor40–50minutes.Checkwithaskewerthatthepuddingiscookedthrough,thenturnout

ontoaservingplateandservewithcustardoricecream.

PearspoachedinmulledwineCOOKINGTIME25–40MINUTES

SERVES8

600ml(1pint)full-bodiedredwineGratedzestandjuiceof1orange4cloves

1cinnamonstickSmallpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandsliced1vanillapod,splitlengthways300g(11oz)castersugar

8slightlyunder-ripepears(Conferenceareideal)Icecream,toserveFIRSTYOUNEEDTOMULLTHEWINE.Placealltheingredients,exceptforthepears,inalargesaucepan,add600ml(1pint)waterandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes.

PEELTHEPEARS,lowerintothesimmeringwinesyrupandweighthemdownwithaplatesothattheyarefullysubmerged.Coverthepanwithalid.Checkthepearsafter20minutes–theyshouldoffernoresistancewhenprickedwithasharpknife.Continuetocookifnecessary.Oncecooked,removefromtheheatandleavethepearstocoolinthesyrup.Servewithicecream.

RaisingingerpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)plainflour½tspbicarbonateofsodaPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)breadcrumbs1tspgroundginger

1tspgroundallspice90g(3oz)vegetablesuet90g(3oz)raisins20g(¾oz)stemginger,chopped60g(2oz)goldensyrupMilk,tomix

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflour,bicarbonateofsodaandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenmixinalltheremainingdryingredients,includingtheraisinsandstemginger.

MELTTHEGOLDENSYRUPinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave,addtothemixeddryingredientsandstirinenoughmilktoreachadroppingconsistency.Spoonintothebasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Soaktheraisinsingingerwineforanhourortwobeforeusing.Haveatippleyourselftoo,butnotsomanythatyoutipover!

Sevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpudding

COOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremoved200g(7oz)medium-cutSevilleorangemarmalade

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarGroundcinnamonornutmeg,tosprinkleCustard,toserve(optional)

GREASEA1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

BUTTERTHEBREADSLICESononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthegreaseddishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup.Ifthereanylargepiecesofrindinthemarmalade,cutthemintosmaller2cm(¾in)pieces,thenspreadhalfofthemarmaladeoverthebread.Addanotherlayerofbreadandspreadtherestofthemarmaladeontothislayer.Finishwiththeremainingbread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELL,mixwiththemilkandsugar,andpourthismixtureoverthepudding.Sprinklewithcinnamonornutmegandleavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakethepuddingfor30minutesoruntilset.Servehot,onitsownorwithcustard.

BloodorangepuddingsCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

MAKES4

4bloodoranges120g(4oz)butter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar,plusanextra3tbspforthesyrup120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted2eggs,beaten

1tbspgoldensyrupCustardoricecream,toserve

FINELYGRATETHEZESTOFtwoofthebloodoranges,thenpeelandsegmentthemandsetthesegmentsaside.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddtheorangezest.Addthesiftedflourtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alternatingwiththebeatenegg,andbeatingwellaftereachaddition.

GREASEFOUR200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Putalittleofthegoldensyrupintothebottomofeachbasin.Placeacoupleofthereservedorangesegmentsinthebaseofeachbasin(keeptheremainingsegmentstooneside).Dividethespongemixtureequallybetweenthebasins.Coversecurelywithlidsorfoilandsteamfor30minutes.

WHILETHEPUDDINGSARECOOKING,juicetheremainingtwooranges,placethejuiceandthereservedorangesegmentsintoasmallpanwiththecastersugar.Heatoveramediumheattoreducetheliquidandmakeanorangesyrup.

TURNOUTTHEPUDDINGSandtopwiththeorangesegmentsandsyrup.Servewithcustardoricecream.

Tarterthanregularorangesandwithgloriousredflesh,bloodorangesmostlycomefromsouthernMediterraneancountries.InseasonfromDecemberto

March,theybringahintofsunshinetoourcoldwintermonths.

FiggypuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)plainflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet1tspmixedspice

1tspbakingpowder90g(3oz)darksoftbrownsugar240g(8½oz)figs,choppedFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemon

2tbspmilk2eggs,beatenWarmedgoldensyrupandcustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddalltheremainingdryingredientsandmixtocombine.Addthefigs,lemonzestandjuice,milkandeggs,thenbeatwell.Themixtureshouldreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Servewithwarmedgoldensyrupandcustard.

AmodernChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

SERVES10

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)plainflour¼tspsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuet½tspmixedspice¼tspgroundcinnamon45g(1½oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)castersugar60g(2oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel60g(2oz)darksoftbrownsugar60g(2oz)glacécherries,chopped90g(3oz)currants90g(3oz)raisins

120g(4oz)sultanas45g(1½oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped30g(1oz)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingappleJuiceandfinelygratedzestof½unwaxedlemon2tspgoldensyrup2tspgravybrowning

4tbspbrandy2eggs,beaten

4tbspmilkBrandybutterorrichwhitebrandysauce,toserve

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargemixingbowl,thenaddallthedryingredientsonthelist,downtoandincludingtheappleandlemonzestandmixuntilcombined.Stirinalltheremainingingredientsandpourthepuddingmixtureintothegreasedbasin.

COVERSECURELYWITHALIDordoublelayerofgreaseproofpaper.Cookinan800W(orabove)microwaveontheHighsettingfor5minutes,leavetostandfor5minutes,thenrepeat.Servestraightawayorstoreinthefridgeuntilneededandreheatasdescribedbelow.Servewithbrandybutterorarichwhitebrandysauce.

TOREHEAT,REMOVETHEPUDDINGfromthebasinandsprinklewith1½teaspoons

ofwater.Coverwithclingfilmandcookinthemicrowavefor4minutes.Leavefor4minutes,thencookforafurther3minutes.

Wedevisedthis‘modern’Christmaspuddingspecificallysothatitcanbecookedinyourmicrowave.(Don’thaveamicrowave?Turntohereforthe

traditionalversion.)

OldHookyChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES8–12

1.2kg(2½lb)mixeddriedfruit240g(8½oz)ready-soakedprunes,chopped240g(8½oz)breadcrumbs2largecookingapples,peeledandgrated60g(2oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped

1tspmixedspiceFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonand1orange240g(8½oz)softdarkbrownsugar120g(4oz)glacécherries1largecarrot,peeledandgrated120g(4oz)groundalmonds120g(4oz)plainflour½tspgroundcinnamon

½tspgroundnutmeg240g(8½oz)shreddedvegetablesuet

1tspsalt150–200ml(5–7floz)OldHookyorsimilardarkale1smallglassofbrandy(about50ml/2floz)3eggs,beaten

Butter,forgreasingBrandybutter,toserve

MIXTOGETHERALLTHEINGREDIENTSinalargemixingbowl,givethemagoodstirandleavetostand,covered,overnight.

THEFOLLOWINGDAY,greasetwo1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasinsandpourinthemixture,fillingthebasinsrighttothetop.Coversecurelywithlidsorfoilandsteamfor1–1½hours.Servewithbrandybutter.

Fansofrealalewilllovethisfestivepudding.OldHookyisafruity,full-bodiedbeerbrewedintheOxfordshirevillageofHookNorton.Ofcourseotherdarkalescanbeusedinstead,butyou’llhavetorenameyourpuddingaccordingly!

PlumduffCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

150g(5oz)self-raisingflour,plusextraforsprinkling75g(3oz)shreddedsuet100g(3½oz)currants

100g(3½oz)raisins100g(3½oz)demerarasugarPinchofmixedspiceApprox.150ml(5floz)milkCustardormeltedjam,toserve

INALARGEBOWL,mixtogethertheflour,suet,currants,raisins,sugarandspice.Mixwithenoughmilktoformastiffdough.Soakacleanteatowelorpuddingclothinboilingwater,wringthenopenoutflatandsprinklewithalittleflour.Putthedoughintothecentreoftheflouredclothandtieuplikeafootball.

DROPTHEWRAPPEDDOUGHintoasaucepanofboilingwater,coverandboilfor1½hours,addingmorewatertothepanasnecessarysothatitdoesn’tboildry.Attheendofthecookingtime,removethepuddingfromthepanandunwrapcarefully.Servewithcustardormeltedjam.

Originallyknownas‘plumdough’,thisbeganlifeasaBritish‘streetfood’,soldfromcloth-coveredbasketsbystreetvendors’wives.Thesedays,peopleoftenwonderwhyplumduffcontainsnoplums,butbackinthe17thcentury,theword

wasusedtorefertoallmanneroffruits,includingraisinsandcurrants.

StNick’spuddingsCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

MAKES6

170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing170g(6oz)softlightbrownsugar3eggs,beaten

125g(4½oz)self-raisingflour140g(5oz)whitebreadcrumbs

1tspgroundcinnamonGratedzestof1orangeandjuiceof½40g(1½oz)choppedprunes190g(6½oz)choppedplums

3tbspgoldensyrupCustard,toserve

GREASESIX200ml(7FLOZ)PUDDINGBASINS.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeateneggandstirtocombine–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflour,breadcrumbsandcinnamonandmixwell.Addtheorangezest,juice,prunesand100g(3½oz)oftheplums.

PLACE15g(½OZ)OFTHEREMAININGPLUMSwith½tablespoonofthegoldensyrupinthebaseofeachgreasedbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlyamongthemandsealwithlidsorfoil.Steamfor35–45minutesuntilcooked,thenturnoutandservewithcustard.

AnicechangefromtheusualChristmaspud,thislighteralternativeisalsomuchquickertomakeas–unlikethetraditionalrecipe–itdoesn’tneedtobeleftfor

weekstomature.Definitelyoneforthosewho’velefttheirChristmaspreparationsuntilthelastminute!

ChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME6–10HOURS

SERVES12

1.2kg(2½lb)mixeddriedfruits240g(8½oz)ready-soakedprunes,chopped240g(8½oz)breadcrumbs2largecookingapples,peeled,choppedandgrated60g(2oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped

1tspmixedspiceFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonand1orange240g(8½oz)softdarkbrownsugar120g(4oz)glacécherries1largecarrot,peeledandgrated120g(4oz)groundalmonds120g(4oz)plainflour

½tspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundnutmeg240g(8½oz)vegetablesuet

1tspsalt220ml(8floz)stout(½regularcan)50ml(2floz)brandy3eggs,beatenButter,forgreasing

MIXTOGETHERALLTHEINGREDIENTSinalargebowl,stirwelltocombine,coverthebowlandleavetostandovernight.

THEFOLLOWINGDAY,greasetwo1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasinsorone2.3-litre(4-pint)basin.Pourthemixtureintothegreasedbasin(s),rightuptothetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamthesmallerpuddingsfor6hoursorthelargeronefor10hours.Servewithyourchoiceofaccompaniments(seehere).

WHYNOTTRY…?Christmaspuddingtakesalongtimetocook,somakeyourcelebrationsless

stressfulbycookingitinadvanceandsimplyreheatingwhenneeded.Toreheat,steamthesmallerpuddingsforabout1hour;thelargerfor2hours.Douseinrumorbrandy,setalightifyouwish,andservewithyourchoiceofbrandy

butter,whitesauce,custardorcream.

MincemeatrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix450g(1lb)mincemeat

1tbspcastersugarCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuet,lemonzestandenoughmilktomakeadough.Onaflouredsurface,rolloutthedoughtoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththemincemeat.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACETHEROLYPOLYINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,raisingonesideofthetinsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventitfromunravelling.Bakefor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapthepuddinginfoiltoholditsshapeandinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklewiththesugarandservewithcustard.

MulledwinejellyCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES6

1orange

1unwaxedlemon2slicesoffreshrootginger,peeled1smallcinnamonstick

2cloves200ml(7floz)port

1bottleoffruityredwine150g(5oz)granulatedsugar25g(1oz)gelatineleavesCrèmefraîche,toserve

FINELYPARETHEZESTfromtheorangeandlemonandplacethestripsinabowlwiththeginger,cinnamonandcloves.Squeezeintheorangeandlemonjuice,coverandleavetomacerateovernight.

THENEXTDAY,pourthemixtureintoalarge,stainless-steelsaucepanandaddtheport,wineandsugar.Heatgently,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Themixtureshouldneverreachasimmer.Assoonasitispipinghot,removefromtheheat.

PLACETHEGELATINEINALARGEBOWL.Keeptheleaveslooseandslightlyseparatefromeachotherasyoupouronenoughcoldwatertocoverthem.Leavetosoakfor5minutes,thendrainoffthewater.Strainthehotwinethroughafinesieveontothesoftgelatineandstiruntilthegelatinehasdissolved.Leavetocool.

POURTHECOOLEDJELLYMIXTUREintoalargeglassdishorindividualglasses.

Chillinthefridgeovernightuntilset,thenservewithcrèmefraîche,flavouredifyouwish(seehere).

AfteraChristmaspartyoneyear,JillfromThePuddingClubwasleftwonderingwhattodowithasurplusofmulledwine.Shedecidedtotrymakingit

intoajellyandwasverypleasantlysurprisedbytheresults!WHYNOTTRY…?

Thisjellyisdivineservedwithcrèmefraîche,whichcanbeflavouredwithcalvados,orangeblossomwaterorCointreauforarefreshingfruitykick.

MincemeattartCOOKINGTIME55–65MINUTES

SERVES8–10

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Flour,fordusting175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened175g(6oz)castersugar

4eggs175g(6oz)groundalmonds

1tspalmondextract175g(6oz)mincemeat50g(2oz)flakedalmondsThickcream,toserve

ROLLOUTTHEPASTRYONAFLOUREDSURFACEanduseittolinea28cm(11in)flantin(seehere).Prickthebaseofthepastrywithafork.Chillthepastrycaseinthefridgefor10minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(375°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removeandsetaside,leavingtheoventurnedon.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheeggsthenaddthegroundalmondsandalmondextract.Mixuntilfullyincorporated.Spreadthemincemeatevenlyinthecookedpastrycaseandtopwiththecreamedmixture.Bakefor30–40minutes,thensprinkletheflakedalmondsontothetartandputbackintheovenfor5minutes.Servewarmwiththickcream.

SpicedwinterfruitsaladCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

SERVES6

600g(1lb5oz)mixeddriedfruit,includingapricots,pittedAgenprunes,pears,applesandfigs

3tbspgood-qualityclearhoney½tspmixedspice1vanillapod

1tbspfreshlemonjuiceGood-qualityvanillaicecreamorGreekyoghurt,toserve

PLACETHEDRIEDFRUITSintoalargesaucepanandcoverwith750ml(1pint6floz)coldwater.Leavetosoakfor2–3hours.

ADDTHEHONEYANDMIXEDSPICEtothepan.Splitthevanillapod,scrapetheseedsintotheliquorandalsoaddthepod.Mixwelltogether,thenbringtotheboilandsimmerfor15minutes.

REMOVETHEPANFROMTHEHEAT,fishoutthevanillapodanddiscard.Addthelemonjuiceandleavetoinfuse.Thefruitsaladcanbeservedwarmorlefttocool.ServewithvanillaicecreamorGreekyoghurt.

THREEWAYSHOUSEHOTEL,inthebeautifulcountrysideoftheNorthCotswolds,hasbeenthehomeofThePuddingClubsinceitwasfirstestablishedin1985.Pudding-loversfromallovertheworldhavevisitedustoenjoyapuddinginRandall’sBarBrasserie,thebuffetofpuddingsatSundaylunchintheaward-winningrestaurantortojoininthefunatauniquemeetingofThePuddingClubitself.Manychoosetostayovernightinoneofthesevenpudding-themedbedrooms;afterallwhereelsecouldyousleepinaboxofchocolatesorunderadrippingsyrupsponge?

OurmissionhasbeentopreservetheheritageofthegreatBritishpudding.Pleasecomealongtoenjoyapuddingortwoandhelpusinourwork:THREEWAYSHOUSEHOTELChapelLane,Mickleton,ChippingCampden,Gloucestershire,GL556SBTel:01386438429,Email:reception@puddingclub.comwww.puddingclub.comwww.threewayshousehotel.com

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSWEWOULDLIKETOTHANKeveryoneatThreeWaysHouseHotelfortheirenergyandenthusiasminmakingThePuddingClubtheworld-famousinstitutionitistodayandfortheirideasandrecipes,whichhelpedtocreatethisbook.Weareparticularlygratefultothequeenofpuddings,SheilaVincent,whohasmademanythousandsofdeliciouspuddingssince1995.ThankstootoHeadChefMarkandtoTom,Carl,Dan,RachelandPeter’swifeJanewhohaveallbeenabighelp.

ThankstootoSarahLavelle,Smith&Gilmour,IoneWalderandeveryoneatEbury.

SimonandJillCoombeandPeterHenderson,ThePuddingClub

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Propsstylist:PollyWebb-WilsonDesignandartdirection:Smith&Gilmour,LondonCopyeditor:IoneWalderISBN9780091945428