GROWING GREAT GREENS

Dennis Morgeson Agent For Horticulture Washington County Kentucky

GARDENING BASICS

• Select a sunny spot-8 hours daily

• Relatively level

• Well drained

• Water nearby

• Avoid tree roots if possible

PLANNING

• Smaller is usually better

• Test soil and fertilize accordingly

• Organic matter is the fastest way to improve structure

PLANNING CONTINUED

• Plant in proper season, id-128

• Select disease resistant cultivars

• Consult family members for input

WHY GROW YOUR OWN?

• Safety

• Taste/Freshness

• Price

• Nutrition: Darker leaves are more nutritious but greens in general are vitamin powerhouses!

• http://lowcarbdiets.about.com/od/lowcarbsuperfoods/a/greensnutrition.htm

THE GREENS

• Most can be started early without special techniques

• March 1st starts the natural planting season, however?

• Greens are basically any crop we grow to eat the leaves and or stems

• Salad Greens vs Greens

COMMON SALAD GREENS

• http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/seasonalcooking/farmtotable/visualguidesaladgreens

• These are just the tip of the ice burg…

LETTUCES

• Romaine or Loose Leaf

• Butterhead or softheads (bibbs)

• Crisphead (hardest to grow)

OTHERS

• Chicory, Endive, Arugula, and or corn salad etc. etc.

• Johnny’s, Baker Creek, Seed Savers Exchange….

• Some or many of these can become very bitter if we get much heat or dry weather, eat them young!

• http://www.johnnyseeds.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=salad+mixes

• Shade?

GREENS?

• Generally cooked before eaten

• Turnip greens, collards, kale, flower Sprouts, mustards

• Cooked or raw: cabbage, spinach, Chinese cabbage, dandelion, kohlrabi, swiss chard

CULTURE

• Greens are cool season vegetables that do need full sun

• We generally get two good cropping seasons in Kentucky

• Most can be sown directly into the garden in early to mid March

• Raised beds are a good option for greens

PLANTING

• An application of a complete fertilizer such as 4 lbs 10-10-10 per 100 square feet or so should be incorporated into the top 3-4 inches of soil

• Leaf and small head lettuce and turnips sow ¼ inch deep and thin to 4-6 inches apart

• Mustards and spinach plant ½ inch deep and thin to 4-6 inches

• Swiss chard and kale plant ½ inch deep and thin 8-12 inches apart

• Thinning should not be delayed or you will get weak spindly plants with little foliage

• Plant successive crops at 7-10 day intervals for continuous harvest

CULTURE

• Mulch to conserve moisture, keep soil cool, and reduce weeds

• Straw, grass clippings, leaf mold, etc.

• What about plastic?

• A second application of fertilizer banded should be applied when plants are 2-3 inches tall and lightly worked in followed by irrigation

• Kale may benefit from a third application when 8 inches or so tall

• Note: Many of the greens have a better flavor if grown in the fall and harvested after the weather cools

HARVEST

• Loose-leaf lettuces 41-50 days

• Romaine lettuce generally take 70-80 days

• Butter and crisp heading varieties 80-90 days

• Most greens are not harvested fully meaning individual leaves are taken over time so harvest can actually last months or even spring through fall (chard)

• All greens and lettuces should be harvested when fully hydrated early morning or late evening and wrapped in plastic with a few holes and refrigerated quickly

PROBLEMS

• Several fungal pathogens attack lettuce generally in cool damp weather, pull and discard plants to reduce spreading, good sanitation and crop rotation is best

• Plant resistant cultivars if problems have occurred in the past, generally problems are few however in a homeowner situation

PROBLEMS

MICROGREENS

• Microgreens are young, tender, edible crops that are harvested as seedlings.

• Grown to first true leaf stage

• Different from sprouts?

• Labor intensive, but easy!

• Best started indoors in a greenhouse, high tunnel, cold frame etc.

• Use sterile medium, requires very little if any fertilization

• Ready for harvest in 7-14 days

• Highly perishable, generally eaten raw or used as a garnish

• Little time for insect or disease problems to occur

PARTIAL LIST OF POSSIBLE MICROGREENS

Amaranth FennelArugula KaleAsian greens KohlrabiBasil LemongrassBeet MizunaBroccoli MustardBuckwheat NasturtiumCabbage OnionCarrot ParsleyCelery PopcornChives RadishCollards SpinachCress Sweet peaDill Swiss chard

SPROUTS

• Simply germinated seedlings

• Can be eaten raw or cooked

• Most common sprouts are alfalfa, mung bean, soybean, lentil, cabbage, radish, and rye

• Use only seeds labeled for sprouting, many seeds have been treated with insecticides etc and are not edible

• Where to buy? Online, health food stores, produce section of stores etc.

• Why grow your own?

GROWING SPROUTS AT HOME SAFELY

• Hint: You don’t need an actual sprouter, Mason jars are fine!

• http://learningstore.uwex.edu/assets/pdfs/A3385.PDF

SPROUT NUTRITION

SEASON EXTENSION-COLD FRAME

SEASON EXTENSION-HOT BED

• 12 to 18 inches of manure under hotbed with 4 to 6 inches of soil on top

• Plant when soil temp drops to 85 degrees

CONSERVING ENERGY

CONSERVING ENERGY

EXTEND THE GROWING SEASON• Hoophouses (High Tunnels) are relatively inexpensive (compared to

greenhouses)

• Greenhouses ($20/sq ft) High Tunnels ($.50/ sq ft)

HIGH TUNNELS• Single layer of plastic

• No heat or cooling (other than venting)

• Irrigation a must

SEASON EXTENSION

Most cool months in Kentucky high tunnels can be used for lettuce and greens production, very little growth however in mid December through January

WHAT WE ARE USED TO?

ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTION METHODS

ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTION METHODS

QUESTIONS?