1Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uk2Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukStaithesEasingstonHesletenSeaton CarewGreat Ayton NeashamThornabyCoxhoeSadbergeCastletonCrathorneBlanchlandEdmundbyersWear HeadBowesBarnard CastleGreta BridgeRavensworthCotherstone StaindropNentheadAllendaleTownRookhopeStanhopeEgglestoneWinstonNewbigginGoathlandGreatSmeatonEgtonLangthwaiteKirkby StephenSt. John's ChapelMiddleton-in-TeesdaleUrraScalingDanbyNorthCowtonGreathamSunnisideEastgateWestgateAllenheadsWhitfieldLangleyCattonNatebyWintonBroughScotchCornerYarmEgglescliffeEstonNew MarskeCornforthFerryhill SedgefieldShildonMurtonHetton-le-HoleWillingtonGreatLumleyCastlesideLeadgateLanchesterEasingtonTrimdonWingateThornleyHaswellLoftusSkeltonChester-le-StreetCrookRichmondStokesleyGuisboroughNewtonAycliffeHurworth-on-TeesBirtleySeahamBurnopfieldConsettDurhamSpennymoorBillinghamBishop AucklandRedcarHoughton le SpringPeterleeStanleyHartlepoolMiddlesbroughStockton-on-Tees DarlingtonWashingtonSUNDERLANDLOCATOR MAPBarnard Castle pg 27Beamish pg 25Billingham pg 22Binchester pg 11Bishop Auckland pg 10Bowes pg 29Brancepeth pg 9Chester-le-Street pg 24Consett pg 23Cotherstone pg 29Cowshill pg 35Crook pg 11Darlington pg 12Durham City pg 5Durham Dales pg 27Easington pg 22Eastgate pg 37Ebchester pg 24Eggleston pg 31Egglestone Abbey pg 29Towns and VillagesElwick pg 22Escomb pg 11FinchalePriory pg 8Frosterley pg 36Gainford pg 13Greta Bridge pg 29Guisborough pg 19Hamsterley Forest pg 33Hart pg 22Hartlepool pg 20Heighington pg 14Ireshopeburn pg 36Kirkleatham pg 17Lanchester pg 9Low Dinsdale pg 14Middlesbrough pg 17Middleton St George pg 14Middleton-in-Teesdale pg 31Peterlee pg 22Piercebridge pg 15Pittington pg 9Pow Hill Country Park pg 36Redcar pg 19Romaldkirk pg 31Rookhope pg 36Saltburn-by-the-Sea pg 19Seaham pg 26Seal Sands pg 23Sedgefield pg 15Shildon pg 11St Johns Chapel pg 36Staindrop pg 32Stanhope pg 34Stockton-on-Tees pg 15Trimdon pg 23Westgate pg 37Witton-le-Wear pg 12Wolsingham pg 37Wycliffe pg 33Yarm pg 163Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukCounty Durhams prosperity was founded oncoalmining. Coal has been mined here forcenturies, but it wasnt until the 18th centurythat the industry was established on acommercial basis. When the railways camealong in the 1840s, the industry prosperedcreating great wealth for the landowners, andoccasionally great misery for the miners. Anexplosion in Trimdon Grange Colliery in 1882claimed the lives of74 miners some ofthem no more than boys. And in May 1951, anunderground explosion in Easington Collierykilled 81 men.Now that the industry has all butdisappeared, the scars it created are beingswept away. Spoil heaps have been cleared orgrassed over, pit heads demolished and oldindustrial sites tidied up. The colliery villagessuch as Pity Me, Shiney Row, Bearpark,Sunniside and Quebec still exist tight-knitcommunities that retain an old-style sense ofbelonging and sharing, and even in the mostunprepossessing ofvillages there aredelightful surprises to be discovered, such asthe near perfect Saxon church at Escomb.Coal may have been king, but CountyDurhams countryside has always supported animportant farming industry, and Central andSouth Durham still retains a gentle landscapeoffields, woodland, streams and narrowcountry lanes. This area stretches from the eastcoast to the Pennines in the west, and fromthe old border with Yorkshire in the south tothe edge ofthe Tyne and the Wearconurbations in the north. Within this areathere are picturesque villages, cottages, grandhouses, museums, snug pubs, old churches andcastles aplenty.County DurhamThe coastline, too, has been cleaned up. An11-mile coastal footpath snakes through thedistrict ofEasington from Seaham Hall Beachin the north to Crimdon Park in the south.Much ofit is along clifftops with spectacularviews down onto the beaches. This coastalarea has recently been designated a NationalNature Reserve.Travelling around the region, the visitor isconstantly reminded ofits rich social,industrial and Christian heritage. The Romansmarched along Dere Street in CountyDurham, and in the 9th and 10th centuriesholy men carried the body ofSt Cuthbert withthem as they sought a place ofrefuge fromthe marauding Vikings. More recently, therailways were born in the county in 1825, withthe opening ofthe famous Stockton andGuisboroughPriory4Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukDarlington Railway.Dominating the whole area is the city ofDurham one ofEuropes finest small cities.It was here, in 1832, that Englands third greatuniversity was established.The towns ofDarlington, Stockton-on-Tees, Redcar, Hartlepool and Bishop Aucklandare all worthy ofexploration. At one time allfalling within the borders ofDurham County,local government reorganisation placedHartlepool and Stockton-on-Tees in thecounty ofCleveland. Now that Clevelanditselfis no more, they, along with Darlington,are unitary authorities and, strictly speaking,not part ofCounty Durham at all, but oldloyalties still exist.To the west, County Durham sweeps up tothe Northern Pennines a hauntinglybeautiful area of moorland, high fells anddeep, green dales. Officially designated as anArea of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1988,the North Pennines covers almost 2,000square kilometres. It is one ofthe mostremote and unspoiled places in the countryand has been called Englands last wilderness.The great northern rivers ofthe Wear, theTees, the Tyne and the Derwent have theirsources here. Tumbling mountain streamshave cut deep into the rock, creating theimpressive waterfalls ofLow Force, HighForce and Cauldron Snout. These are magicalplaces and show just how water has shaped theDurham Dales. The area is rich in wildlife.Hen harriers, merlins and other rare speciesbreed here, and in spring and summer theplaintive call ofthe curlew can often be heard.This is ideal country for walking andcycling, though in the winter months it can bewild and inhospitable. There are numerousrights-of-way to be explored, including thecoast-to-coast (C2C) cycle path. The PennineWay cuts through County Durham in thesouth, close to the towns ofBarnard Castleand Middleton-in-Teesdale, continuingwestward through Upper Teesdale until itenters Cumbria. Further north it entersNorthumberland to the west ofHaltwhistleand then the Northumberland National Park.Man has left his mark here too, for this isworking countryside. The lower reaches havebeen farmed for centuries,and the high fells are home tomany flocks ofsheep. At onetime there were woollen millsin Barnard Castle, providing aready market for local sheepfarmers. Lead mining was athriving industry, with mineslocated at Killhope,Ireshopeburn and St JohnsChapel. Middleton-in-Teesdale was once theheadquarters ofthe LondonLead Company, a greatQuaker business venture.Cauldron Snout, Teesdale5Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukDurham CityACathedralACastleAChurchesBThe Old Fulling MillECrook HallBUniversity MuseumCBattle of Nevilles CrossEBotanic GardensBDLI Museumand Art GalleryArriving in Durham by train, the visitor ispresented with what must be one ofthe mostbreathtaking urban views in Europe. Toweringover the tumbling roofs ofthe city are themagnificent towers ofDurham Cathedraland, close by, Durham Castle.The Cathedral is third only to Canterburyand York in ecclesiastical significance, butexcels them in architectural splendour, and isthe finest and grandest example ofNormanarchitecture in Europe. This was the powerbase ofthe inordinately wealthy PrinceBishops ofDurham who once exercised king-like powers in an area known as the PalatinateofDurham. The powers vested in them byWilliam I permitted them to administer civiland criminal law, issue pardons, hold their ownparliament, mint their own money, createbaronetcies and give market charters. Theycould even raise their own army. Though thesepowers were never used in later years, theycontinued in theory right up until 1836, whenthe last ofthe Prince Bishops, Bishop WilliamVan Mildert, died. The Palatinate Courts,however, were only abolished in 1971. It islittle wonder that the County Council nowproudly presents the county to visitors as TheLand ofthe Prince Bishops.The cathedral owes its origin to the monksofLindisfarne who, in AD875, fled fromViking attacks, taking with them the coffin ofSt Cuthbert, shepherd saint ofNorthumbria.In AD883 they settled at Chester-le-Street.However, further Viking raids in AD980caused them to move once more, and theyeventually arrived at a more easily defendedsite about 10 miles to the south, where theRiver Wear makes a wide loop round a rockyoutcrop. Here, in Durham, they built theWhite Church, where St Cuthberts remainswere finally laid to rest.The present cathedral building was begunby William de St Carileph or St Calais, Bishopof Durham from 1081 to 1096. Williamarrived at the White Church bringing withhim holy relics and a group ofmonks andscholars from Monkwearmouth and Jarrow.Forced to flee to Normandy in 1088, havingbeen accused ofplotting against WilliamRufus, William returned in1091 after a pardon,determined to replace the littlechurch with a building ofthesame scale and style as thesplendid new churches he sawbeing built in France at thattime. In August 1093, thefoundation stones were laid,witnessed by King MalcolmIII of Scotland, famed as thesoldier who slew Macbeth inbattle.Durham Cathedral6Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukThe main part ofthe great building waserected in a mere 40 years, but over ensuingcenturies each generation has addedmagnificent work and detail, such as the14th-century Episcopal Throne, said to be thehighest in Christendom, and the NevilleScreen made from creamy marble. On theNorth Door is a replica ofthe 12th-centurySanctuary knocker used by fugitives seeking ahaven. They were allowed to remain within thechurch for 37 days, after which time, iftheyhad failed to settle their affairs, they weregiven a safe passage to the coast carrying across and wearing a distinctive costume. Nothing is more moving however, than thesimple fragments ofcarved wood that survivefrom St Cuthberts coffin, made for the saintsbody in AD698 and carried around the northofEngland by his devoted followers beforebeing laid to rest in the mighty cathedral. Thefragments are now kept in the Treasures ofSt Cuthbert Exhibition, within the cathedral,with examples ofthe Prince Bishops ownsilver coins. The cathedral is also the restingplace for the tomb ofthe Venerable Bede(AD673-735), saint, scholar and Britains firstand pre-eminent historian.Durham Castle (see panel above), sharingthe same rocky peninsula and standing close tothe cathedral, was founded in 1072 andbelonged to the Prince Bishops. Such was theimpregnability ofthe site that Durham wasone ofthe few towns in Northumbria thatwas never captured by the Scots. Among thecastles most impressive features are theChapel, dating from 1080, and the Great Hall,which was built in the middle ofthe13th century. The 18th-century gatehouse hasa Norman core, as does the massive keep,which was rebuilt in Victorian times.Only open to the public at limited times, theCastle is now used as a hall ofresidence forthe students ofDurham University, and theGreat Hall serves as the Dining Hall ofUniversity College. Students and visitors ofanervous disposition should beware the castleis reputedly haunted by no less than threeghosts. One is supposed to be Jane, wife ofBishop Van Mildert, and takes the form ofthetop halfofa woman in 19th-century dress.She glides along the Norman Gallery, leavingthe scent ofapple blossom in her wake. Asecond spirit is ofuniversity tutor FrederickCopeman who, in 1880, threw himselfofftheDurham CastlePalace Green, Durham,Co DurhamDH1 3RWTel: 01913 344106In 1069, three years after landing in Britain,William the Conqueror finally subdued theNorth of England. William recognised thedefensive potential of the rocky peninsula ofDurham and a castle was founded there in1072. Nine centuries later, Durham Castleremains one of Englands largest and best-preserved Norman strongholds and one of the grandest Romanesque palaces. Since 1836 ithas housed the Foundation College of Durham University, Englands third oldest universityafter Oxford and Cambridge.7Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uktower ofthe cathedral. His ghost is said tohaunt his former room offthe NormanGallery. A further apparition, who has beenseen at various locations within the castle, is acowled monk ofuncertain identity.The university, Englands third oldest afterOxford and Cambridge, was founded in 1832by Bishop Van Mildert. In 1837, it moved intoDurham Castle, though today its manybuildings are scattered throughout the southofthe city. The importance ofthe whole areasurrounding the cathedral and castle wasaccorded international recognition in 1987when it was designated a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site.A favourite walk past the castle andcathedral follows the footpaths that runthrough the woodlands on each bank oftheRiver Wear, around the great loop. You canbegin at either Framwellgate Bridge or ElvetBridge. The path along the inside ofthe loopgoes past The Old Fulling Mill, situatedbelow the cathedral, which now houses anarchaeological museum containing materialfrom excavations in and around the city.Prebends Bridge offers spectacular views ofthe Cathedral. Ifwalking isnt to your taste,you can take a cruise along the river fromElvet Bridge.The rest ofDurham reflects the longhistory ofthe castle and cathedral itserved. There are winding streets, suchas Saddler Street and Silver Street(whose names reflect their medievalorigin), the ancient Market Place,elegant Georgian houses - particularlyaround South Bailey - and quietcourtyards and alleyways. Much ofDurhams shopping area is closed totraffic. There are several churches worthvisiting such as St Nicholass Churchin the Market Place, St Mary le Bow Churchin North Bailey, which houses The DurhamHeritage Centre and Museum, and StOswalds Church in Church Street. Theirpresence highlights the fact that, in medievaltimes, this was a great place ofpilgrimage.Opened in 2002, the Durham MillenniumComplex incorporates the Gala Theatre, avisitor centre with a large format cinema, craftworkshops and a tourist information bureau.The DLI Museum and Durham ArtGallery at Aykley Heads tells the story ofthecountys own regiment, the Durham LightInfantry, which was founded in 1758 andlasted right up until 1968. The horrors ofWorld War One are shown, as is areconstruction ofa Durham street duringWorld War Two. Individual acts ofbravery arealso remembered, such as the story ofAdamWakenshaw, the youngest ofa family of13,who refused to leave his comrades after hisarm was blown off. He died in action, and wasawarded a Victoria Cross. The art gallery has achanging exhibition ofpaintings andsculpture. (0191 384 2214).Opened in 1960, the Durham UniversityOriental Museum houses a collection oforiental art ofinternational importance withUniversity Botanic Gardens, Durham8Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukexhibits from Ancient Egypt, Tibet, India,China, Persia and Japan. Located in parklandoffElvet Hill Road to the south ofthe city,the museum entrance is guarded by two statelyChinese lion-dogs. The Ancient Egyptiancollection is housed in a fine new gallery.The university also manages the 18-acreBotanic Gardens on Hollingside Lane (offthe A167) on the south side ofthe city. Thegardens include a large collection ofNorthAmerican trees, including junior-sized giantredwoods, a series ofsmall gardens-within-gardens and walks through mature woodland.Two display greenhouses with trees and plantsfrom all over the world feature cacti and atropical jungle.Crook Hall and Gardens (see panelabove) is on Frankland Lane, a 10-minute walknorth ofthe Millburngate Shopping Centre.Centred on a lovely 14th-century medievalmanor house, the gardens - described by AlanTitchmarsh as a tapestry ofcolourfulblooms are quintessentially English. Thehall itself, with its haunted Jacobean Room, isalso open to the public.On the western outskirts ofthe city, andstraddling the A167, is the site of the BattleofNevilles Cross, fought in 1346 betweenScotland and England. The Scottish army washeavily defeated, and the Scottish king, DavidII, taken prisoner.Around Durham CityFINCHALE PRIORY4 miles N ofDurham offthe A167JCocken WoodOn a minor road off the A167 liesCrook Hall and GardensFrankland Lane, Durham, Co DurhamDH1 5SZTel: 01913 848028e-mail: info@kbacrookhall.co.ukwebsite: www.crookhallgardens.co.ukDescribed by Alan Titchmarsh as a tapestry ofcolourful blooms, Crook Hall is a beautiful medievalmanor house surrounded by romantic gardens, whichinclude ancient fruit trees and climbing roses.Visitors are invited to try out the maze, hunt downthe ghosts, experience the peace and tranquillity ofthe walled gardens, or simply relax and enjoy ahomemade cream tea in the pretty little courtyardcaf. The Hall is just a short walk from Durhamsbustling market place yet the atmosphere is one ofpeace and tranquillity.Finchale Priory9Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uk13th-century Finchale (pronounced Finkle)Priory. It was built by the monks ofDurhamCathedral as a holiday retreat on the site ofahermitage founded by St Godric in about1115. The ruins sit on a loop ofthe Wear in abeautiful location, across the river fromCocken Wood Picnic Area, which is linkedto the priory by a bridge.LANCHESTER8 miles NW of Durham on the A691AAll Saints ChurchLanchester owes its name to the Roman fortofLongovicium (The Long Fort), whichstood on a hilltop halfa mile to the southwest.The fort was built to guard Dere Street, theRoman road that linked York and the north.The scant remains sit on private land,however, and cant be visited. Stone from thefort was used in the mostly Norman AllSaints Church and Roman pillars can be seensupporting the north aisle. There is also aRoman altar in the south porch and somesuperb 12th-century carvings over the vestrydoor in the chancel.A place well worth visiting near Lanchesteris Hall Hill Farm, on the B6296 four milessouthwest ofthe village. Its a working sheepfarm, which is open to the public all year.The area to the south ofLanchester is atypical County Durham mining area, withseveral small former colliery villages includingQuebec, Esh Winning, Tow Law and CornsayColliery.PITTINGTON3 miles E ofDurham offthe B1283ASt Laurences ChurchA small village, Pittington contains one ofCounty Durhams hidden gems the Saxon-Norman St Laurences Church at Hallgarth.The present church dates from the11th century, on the site ofwhat is believed tobe an even earlier Saxon church. The12th-century paintings ofSt Cuthbert are wellworth seeing.BRANCEPETH4 miles SW of Durham on the A690ACastleBrancepeth is a small estate village built byMatthew Russell in the early 1800s, withpicturesque Georgian-style cottages and an18th-century rectory. To the south, in parkland,is the imposing Brancepeth Castle. Theoriginal 13th-century castle was owned by theNevills, Earls ofWestmorland, and for manyyears was the headquarters ofthe DurhamLight Infantry. Constantly adapted, added toand evolving ever since, the castle has been thehome ofthe Dobson family for over 25 years.Not routinely open to the public, tours can bearranged for a modest charge, and some oftherooms can be seen during the Craft Fairs heldon the last weekends in July and November.These three-day events provide a showcase forup to 100 exhibitors whose wares range fromfurniture to clothing, glass to painting, potteryand much more.Close to the castle are the remains of StBrandons Church. In 1998 a fire destroyed allBracepeth Castle10Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukbut the four walls and tower ofwhat wasonce a beautiful and historic building. Thechurchs magnificent woodwork,commissioned by its rector John Cosin in theearly 1600s, was completely destroyed. Cosinwent on to become Bishop ofDurham, andrestored many churches in the county.Thanks to an appeal, work has begun torestore the church.Bishop AucklandACastleATown HallASt Andrews ChurchBishop Auckland is an ancient town, standingon the major Roman thoroughfare ofDereStreet. Like many County Durham towns, itowed its later prosperity to coal mining. Whenthe surrounding pits closed, the town wentinto decline, but it is now graduallyrediscovering itselfas new industries areestablished. As its name implies, up until theearly 19th century, this was part oftheterritory ofthe Prince Bishops ofDurhamwho controlled what was then a scattering ofsmall villages. Rapid expansion occurredduring the 19th century and Bishop Aucklandbecame an important market town andadministrative centre for the region.Auckland Castle, at one time the principalcountry residence ofthe Prince Bishops, isnow the official residence ofthe Bishop ofDurham. The castle began as a small12th-century manor house.Over the years, successive bishops added toit, and looking at it today, it appears largely17th or 18th century. But the fabric is stillbasically medieval, although parts ofit weredestroyed during the Civil War when it was theheadquarters ofSir Arthur Hazlerigg,Governor ofthe North. Bishop Cosin setabout making it wind and watertight after theRestoration, turning the Great Hall into amagnificent private chapel in 1665. Dedicatedto St Peter, it is reputed to be the largestprivate chapel in Europe.Cosins successor, Nathaniel, Lord Crewe,made a gift ofthe beautifully toned FatherSchmidt organ with its unusual keyboard onwhich the black and white keys are reversed.And in the 1880s, Bishop Joseph Lightfootpresented the fine stained glass windows,which trace the growth ofChristianity in thenorth east, vividly depicting incidents in thelives ofSt Oswald, St Aidan, St Cuthbertand St Bede.The castles greatest treasures, however, arethe paintings now displayed in the LongDining Room. Created by the 17th centurySpanish artist Francesco Zurburn, thesemonumental works, seven feet high, depictJacob and his 12 sons, the founders oftheTribes ofIsrael.The palace grounds, within which there isan 18th-century deer house, are open all yearround; the palace itselfis open from Mayto September.A market has been held in Bishop Aucklandfor centuries. Opposite the presentmarketplace is the imposing Franco-FlemishBishop Auckland Town Hall, built in theearly 1860s.While the villages immediately surroundingBishop Auckland are mainly industrial, thereare still some attractions worth seeing. AtSouth Church is the cathedralesque StAndrews Church, 157 feet long and said tobe the largest parish church in the county.On display in a working mens club at WestAuckland can be found the most unlikely oftrophies the World Cup, no less. In 1910 thevillages football team headed offto Italy torepresent England in the first ever World Cup.11Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukIt competed against teams from Germany,Italy and Switzerland, and remarkably won thecup when it beat Juventus 2-0 in the final. Theteam returned the following year to defend itstitle, and again won the trophy, which earnedthem the right to retain it for all time. Sadlythe trophy you see today is actually a replica, asthe original was stolen.Around BishopAucklandSHILDON2 miles SE ofBishop Auckland on the B6282BLocomotionTimothy Hackworth served from 1825 as theresident engineer on the Stockton andDarlington Railway. In 1840 he resigned andleft in order to develop the Soho EngineWorks at Shildon and make his ownlocomotives. The first trains to run in Russiaand Nova Scotia were built here. Today, theEngine Works, along with his house, can beseen at Locomotion, where the displays givea fascinating insight into the early days ofrailand steam power in England, including a fullsize replica ofthe Sans Pareil locomotive,built for the Liverpool-Manchester railway.This fascinating complex demonstratesvividly what made Shildon the first railwaytown in the world. It attracts thousands oftourists each year who want to find out aboutthe transport revolution ofthe early 1800s.You dont need to be a railway buffto enjoythis museum, one ofthe most popularattractions in the region. Call 01325 460532for opening times. Locomotion is an annexofYorks National Railway Museum, part ofthe National Museum of Science andIndustry(NMSI).BINCHESTER1 mile N ofBishop Auckland offthe A689CRoman FortBinchester Roman Fort, known to theRomans as Vinovia, was built around AD80. Itwas one ofa chain offorts built along DereStreet, and has the best-preserved Romanmilitary bathhouse in Britain, complete with apillared hypocaust heating system. In additionto acting as a military centre controlling thelocal area, the fort also provided a stopping-off place for troops and supplies headingtowards Hadrians Wall. A portion ofDereStreet has been preserved here.CROOK5 miles NW ofBishop Auckland on the A689Crook is a small, spacious town with a widesquare, which, in summer, is full offlowers. Atone time it was a centre ofcoal mining, andthe quaintly named Billy Row to the north ofthe town centre is a typical coalfield hamlet ofminers cottages.ESCOMB2 miles NW ofBishop Auckland offthe A688AChurch of St John the EvangelistIn the small village ofEscomb is one ofthetrue hidden gems ofCounty Durham Beam Engine, Shildon12Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukSt John the Evangelist Church, built usingstone from nearby Binchester Roman Fort.This is one ofonly three complete Saxonchurches in Britain, and is typically Saxon inlayout, with its long, high nave and tinychancel arch, which may have been taken fromthe Roman fort at Binchester. In the southwall ofthe nave is a curious sundialsurrounded by serpents and surmounted bywhat may be a mythical beast.WITTON-LE-WEAR4 miles NW ofBishop Auckland offthe A68Overlooking the River Wear are the hillsideterraces ofthe village ofWitton-le-Wear,noted for its handsome green, its open views,attractive cottages and a pele tower attachedto fragments ofa medieval manor house inthe High Street. The grounds ofWittonCastle, a medieval fortified house just acrossthe river, have been incorporated into arecreational area.DarlingtonASt Cuthberts ChurchBRailway CentreHTrainDarlington is an important regional centreserving the southern part ofCounty Durham,Teesdale and much ofNorth Yorkshire. It wasfounded in Saxon times, and has a bustlingtown centre with one ofthe largestmarketplaces in England. On its west side is theOld Town Hall and indoor market, with animposing Clock Tower designed by AlfredWaterhouse in 1864.There are many fine buildings inDarlington, most notably St CuthbertsChurch with its tall spire on the east side ofthe marketplace. It is almost cathedral-like inits proportions, and was built by BishopPudsey between 1183 and 1230 as a collegiatechurch. Its slender lancet windows and steeproofenhance its beauty, which has earned itthe name The Lady ofthe North.High Row, with its elevated street ofshops, forms part ofa compact butcharacterful shopping centre. The tallbuildings evolved due to the narrowness ofthe plots ofland in medieval times. Thefaades are pierced by tunnels, which at onetime gave access to rear gardens. These havelong since been built over and turned intoyards that lend their name to this part oftown. The Yards now contain shops andsmall businesses and are public rights ofwaybetween High Row and Skinnergate.Perhaps Darlingtons greatest claim to famelies in the role it played, with neighbouringStockton, in the creation ofthe worlds firstcommercially successful public railway, whichopened in 1825. Locomotion No 1 pulled amixed train ofcoal wagons and wagons withseats on the journey to Stockton at an averagespeed of12mph. It was the DarlingtonQuaker and banker, Edward Pease, whobecame the main driving force behind thescheme to link the Durham coalfields with theport ofStockton.The original Darlington Station, built in1842, was located at North Road Station.Today it serves as the Darlington RailwayCentre and Museum(see panel opposite) a museum ofnational importance, whichhouses relics ofthe pioneering Stockton andDarlington Railway. This includes a replica ofStephensons Locomotion No 1, a Stocktonand Darlington first-class coach carriage builtin 1846, a World War Two newsstand, theDerwent (the earliest surviving Darlington-built locomotive) and even Victorian urinals.To the north ofBank Top station, on themain London-Edingburgh line, a notice1213Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukindicates where the old Stockton-Darlingtonline crosses the main lineSo much early railway history is to beseen in this part ofCounty Durham thatNational Rail have named their local BishopAuckland-Darlington-MiddlesbroughlinetheHeritage Line.Continuing with the railways theme, theresan unusual engine to be seen in Morton RetailPark, to the east ofthe town, offthe A66.Train is a life-size brick sculpture, designed bysculptor David Mach, ofthe fastest-eversteam locomotive, Mallard. Bricks are not thefirst materials you associate with speed butMachs replica ofthe streamlined record-holder is completely convincing and veryimpressive. It surges out from a tunnel ofearth, its chimney belching smoke, which,incredibly, is also made ofbrick.Around DarlingtonGAINFORD7 miles W of Darlington on the A67ASt Marys ChurchAGainford HallGainford village sits just north ofthe Tees. At its core is a jostlingcollection of quaint 18th and19th-century cottages and housesgrouped around a village green.At the southwest corner ofthegreen is St Marys Church alarge church, built mostly in the12th century from stone that isbelieved to have come fromPiercebridge Roman fort, threemiles to the east. Certainly aRoman altar was found built intothe tower during the restoration of Darlington TrainDarlington Railway Centre &MuseumNorth Road Station, DarlingtonDL3 6STTel: 01325 460532 Fax: 01325 287746e-mail:museum@darlington.gov.ukwebsite: www.drcm.org.ukExperience the atmosphere of the steam railwayage as you step back in time to the North RoadPassenger Station of 1842. See StephensonsLocomotion, which hauled its first train on theStockport and Darlington Railway in 1825. Explore the railway heritage of North EastEngland through a collection of engines, carriages and wagons. Open daily 10-5pm, all yearexcept 25th and 26th December and 1st January.14Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uk1864-65, and it can be seen in the museum ofDurham Cathedral.Gainford Hall is a large Jacobean mansionbuilt by the Rev John Cradock in the early1600s. Though not open to the public, it canbe viewed from the road. Its hard to believethat in the 19th century this quiet village was aspa, visited by people from all over the northofEngland. Some way away along the banksofthe Tees to the west, a basin can be seenwhere the sulphurous waters were collected.HEIGHINGTON5 miles N ofDarlington offthe A6072ASt Michaels ChurchHeighington is an attractive village with neatcottages and a large green. St MichaelsChurch is predominantly Norman, and has apre-Reformation oak pulpit withprayers inscribed on it for itsdonors, Alexander and AgnesFletcher. About three miles west ofthe village, near Bolam, is the shaftofa 9th-century cross known asthe Legs Cross.LOW DINSDALE4 miles SE ofDarlington offthe A67AChurch of St John the BaptistA visit on foot or by car to LowDinsdale is well worthwhile, as the 12th-century red sandstone St John the BaptistChurch, surrounded by copper beeches, isworthy ofa postcard. Opposite stands a 16th-century manor house built on the site ofamoated Norman manor owned by the Siwardfamily. They later changed their name toSurtees, and became wellknown throughoutthe north.MIDDLETON ST GEORGE3 miles E ofDarlington offthe A67ASt Georges ChurchMiddleton St George is a pleasant village onthe banks ofthe River Tees to the east ofDarlington, close to Durham Tees ValleyAirport once an airfield from which Britishand Canadian bombers flew during WorldWar Two. St Georges Church dates fromthe 13th century with 18th and 19th-centuryadditions, and is detached from the village,standing among fields. Curiously, thestonework has been heavily patched withbrick at some point. It is thought to havebeen built on the site ofan old Saxon churchand the Victorian pews are ratherincongruous more like old-fashionedwaiting room seats than pews.The nearby village ofMiddleton One RowGainford HallSt Michaels Church, Heighington15Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukis aptly named, as it consists ofa single row ofGeorgian cottages. The cottages haveinevitably been altered over the years as thearrival ofthe railway inspired development inthe region.PIERCEBRIDGE4 miles W of Darlington on the A67CRoman FortDriving past the picturesque village green ofPiercebridge, most motorists will be unawarethat they are passing through the centre of aonce important Roman Fort. Piercebridge wasone ofa chain offorts on Dere Street, whichlinked the Roman headquarters at York withthe north. Other forts in the chain were locatedat Catterick to the south and Binchester, justoutside Bishop Auckland, to the north. Theremains ofthe fort, which are still visible today,can be dated from coin evidence to aroundAD270. The site is always open and admissionis free. Finds from this site are housed in theBowes Museum at Barnard Castle.SEDGEFIELD9 miles NE of Darlington on the A689ASt Edmunds ChurchJHardwick Hall Country ParkSedgefield, famous nowadays for its NationalHunt racecourse, is a small town whosemarket charter was issued in 1315. The grand15th-century tower ofSt Edmunds Churchdominates the village green and the cluster ofGeorgian and early Victorian houses. It isfamous for its intricately carved Cosinwoodwork, which was on a par with thewoodwork lost when Brancepeth church wasdestroyed by fire in 1998. Cosins son-in-law,Denis Granville, was rector here in the late17th century, and it was during this time thatthe woodwork was installed.Hardwick Hall Country Park lies to thewest ofthe town, beyond the A177.Developed as a pleasure garden between 1748and 1792 the gardens were laid out and theornamental buildings designed by the architectJames Paine. The hall is now a luxury hotel,but the 50-acre park with its network ofwoodland walks and Gothic folly is open tothe public.Stockton-on-TeesAParish ChurchBGreen Dragon MuseumBPreston Hall MuseumStockton-on-Tees found fame with theopening ofthe Stockton and Darlingtonrailway in 1825, constructed so that coal fromthe mines ofSouth Durham could have accessto the Tees, where it would be shipped southto London. The opening ofthe railwaysencouraged the growth ofindustry, and thesubsequent discovery ofironstone in theCleveland Hills in the 1850s, was to transformthe fortunes ofthe town, providing greatwealth for many ofits citizens.Nowadays it is a large, busy town, and nolonger a part ofCounty Durham after localgovernment reorganisation created the countyofCleveland, and Stockton found itselfonthe wrong side ofthe border. When Clevelanditselfwas dissolved, the town became aunitary authority, taking in parts offormerNorth Yorkshire.In the centre ofStocktons High Street isthe Old Town Hall and market cross datingfrom the mid 18th century, and in TheatreYard offthe High Street is the GreenDragon Museum, set in a former sweetfactory warehouse. Here the visitor canexplore the regions heritage, with displays of16Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukdecorative applied art, contemporaryphotography, land transport, maritime,personalities, social history, science andtechnology, weapons and war.The red brick Parish Church was builtbetween 1712 and 1713, and is one ofonly ahandful ofAnglican churches in Englandwithout a dedication. Its official title is TheParish Church ofStockton-on-Tees, thoughfor many years it has been informally called StThomass. This unofficial dedication came froma chapel ofease that stood on the site whenStockton was part ofthe parish ofNorton.Captain James Cook is said to have servedthe early part ofhis apprenticeship inStockton. A full-size replica ofhis ship, HMBark Endeavour, is moored at Castlegate Quayon Stocktons riverside. Alongside is theTeesside Princess, a river cruiser that takesvisitors on a pleasure trip as far inland asYarm, stopping at Preston Hall. From theQuay visitors can walk across the stunningMillennium Footbridge linking Stockton withThornaby on the opposite bank ofthe Tees.Other famous characters connected withthe town include John Walker, the inventor ofthe friction match, who was born in Stocktonin 1781, and ThomasSheraton, the furnituremaker and designer, bornhere in 1751 and married inSt Marys Church, Norton.One ofthe towns citizenswith a more unusual claim tofame was Ivy Close, whowon Britains first everbeauty contest held inNewcastle in 1908.Preston Hall Museum,set in 110 acres of parklandto the south ofthe town onthe banks ofthe Tees, is housed in the formerhome oflocal shipbuilder, Robert Ropner.Exhibits describe how life was lived in the areaat the time the Hall was built in 1825. There isa re-created period street, a fully furnisheddrawing room ofthe 1820s, a schoolroom anda collection ofArms and Armoury in thecellar. The museums most famous exhibit isThe Diceplayers, painted by Georges de laTour in the 17th century.Stockton may no longer be a busy port,but in recent years there has been a lot ofdevelopment along the banks ofthe Tees.The spectacular 54 million Tees Barrage,built to stop the flow ofpollution from thechemical plants being carried upstream by thetides, has transformed an 11-mile stretch ofriver. Features include Britains finestpurpose-built White Water canoe slalomcourse, navigation lock, fish pass andrecreation site with picnic area.YARM4 miles S ofStockton-on-Tees on the A67Set within a loop ofthe River Tees, Yarmwas a prosperous river port as far back as the1300s, trading in wine, flax and sheepskins toPreston Hall Museum, Stockton-on-Tees17Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uktanneries set along the riverbanks. Its broad main street,one of the widest in England,is still lined with some fineGeorgian houses andcoaching inns, but thebustling river traffic has gone,drawn away to the superioramenities ofStockton andMiddlesbrough. Standing inthe centre of the main streetis an elegant Town Hall of1710 with marks on its wallsrecording the levels ofpastriver floods the most damaging filling thewhole marketplace to a depth offour feet.From this street, wynds quaint passageways lead down to the river where you can strollalong the banks and admire the handsomeold bridge originally built around 1400. Themost impressive structure, however, is therailway viaduct with its 40 arches soaringabove the rooftops and extending for almosthalfa mile. Yarm has another importantrailway connection, since it was at a meetingat the George and Dragon Hotel in 1820 thatinitial plans were drawn up for theconstruction ofthe Stockton and DarlingtonRailway, the first public railway.MiddlesbroughATransporter BridgeAOrmesby HallHMIMABCaptain Cook Birthplace MuseumBDorman MuseumDominating the skyline ofthis busy town isthe Transporter Bridge. Opened in 1911, it isthe only working bridge ofits kind in Britain.It can carry nine cars or 200 pedestrians oneach crossing. Captain Cook was born here in1728 and his life story can be charted in theCaptain Cook Birthplace Museum. TheDorman Museum has themed displays onnatural history, social history and worldcultures. Exhibits include an extensivecollection ofbirds eggs and more than 70,000fossils. Built at a cost of19 million andopened in 2007, MIMA (MiddlesbroughInstitute ofModern Art) next to the CarnegieLibrary is home to a variety ofart collectionsand touring art exhibitions. It was designed byErick van Egeraat Architects. On the southedge ofthe town is the National TrustsOrmesby Hall, a beautiful 18th-centurymansion.Around MiddlesbroughKIRKLEATHAM5 miles E ofMiddlesbrough on the A174BMuseumEOwl CentreTwo good reasons for a visit here.Kirkleatham Museum is a 17th-centuryhouse with exhibitions on art, coast andcountry, and the regions ironstone mining andiron and steel heritage. Kirkleatham OwlCentre has one ofthe countrys mostTransporter Bridge, Middlesborough18Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukSPRINGHOUSECOTTAGES3 Springhouse Cottages, Easington,Saltburn-by-the-Sea, ClevelandTS13 4UETel:01947 893284/07956 344132e-mail:holiday@springhousecottages.co.ukwebsite:www.springhousecottages.co.ukSpringhouse is a two-bedroom self-catering cottage near the fishingvillage of Staithes. Owners Amanda and Adrian Pearsons property offerswell-equipped modern facilities and fantastic views over the surroundingcountryside and out to sea. The cottage was converted by the ownerswith love and skill from an old blacksmiths barn. The work took tenmonths and was completed in May 2009. The whole of the property isat least 200 years old and when they started the work it had not beenlived in for 35 years. The ground floor comprises a kitchen-diner,cloakroom and a living room with leather settees, a log-burning stove andunderfloor heating. One the first floor are two bedrooms a double(which has a large walk in wardrobe and a 26" LCD TV and DVD player)and a twin, both with en suite shower. This lovely pantile-roofed cottagehas two sets of patio doors, into the kitchen-diner and living room, andoutside is a terrace with garden furniture that commands terrific views.Springhouse is an ideal base for relaxing or walking the dog, whilesporting facilities available nearby include golf, fishing, sailing and riding. Staithes, on theCleveland Way, is two miles away, and also within easy reach are Runswick Bay, Whitby,Guisborough, Pickering and Kirkby Moorside.WOLD POTTERY79 High Street, Loftus, Saltburn-by-the-Sea,ClevelandTS13 4HGTel:01287 640100e-mail:woldpottery@yahoo.co.ukwebsite:www.woldpottery.co.ukFor more than 50 years Wold Pottery has beenproducing pieces to delight buyers and owners athome and overseas. Jill Christie has long beenpassionate about pottery, working in the finesttraditions of the studio pottery movement. In 1973she was apprenticed to Aidan Dixon, who foundedthe Pottery in its original location near Beverley. At Aidans wheel she learnt throwing anddecorating techniques and took over the business in 1985. To meet the growing needs ofcommissioning for customers the Pottery moved into a 19th century butchers shop on the mainstreet of Loftus. In 2008 the premises were extended to house the Gallery, fulfilling Jills dream ofhaving the workshop and the gallery under one roof.Jill produces earthenware of a lightness and clarity that is never equalled by stoneware. Theoutput includes a wide range of domestic and decorative pieces; some are embossed with realleaves, others feature lattice work, and the classic Wolds colours of sea green, browns and bluesare often to be seen. The Gallery houses a collection of original works by Jill and other people in avariety of media, including oils, watercolours, ceramics, sculpture, silks, soaps and candles giftsat all prices for all occasions, and almost everything made in and around the Moors and Coast.19Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukimportant collections ofowls, along withfalcons, buzzards, vultures and caracaras. TheCentre is open Tuesday to Sunday in summer,Thursday to Sunday out ofseason.GUISBOROUGH8 miles E ofMiddlesbrough on the A171APrioryThe stark remains ofGuisborough Priorystand on an elevated site overlooked by theCleveland Hills. Founded by the greatlandowner Robert de Bruis in 1119, themonastery became one ofthe most powerfulin Yorkshire. Much extended in 1200, andrebuilt after a fire destroyed the whole site, theestate was sold in 1540 to a Thomas Chaloner,who cannibalised much ofthe fabric to graceornamental gardens at his grand mansionnearby. Nothing remains ofthat mansion, andofthe Priory itselfthe great arch at the eastend is the most striking survival. The groundsare a popular venue for picnics.RedcarAZetland Lifeboat MuseumThis popular town and holidayresort is home to the oldestlifeboat in the world, on display atthe Zetland Lifeboat Museum.The Zetland was built in 1802 byHenry Greathead and saved morethan 500 lives in its long career. Itstands among exhibitions onfishing history, models,photographs, paintings and cards,and a replica fishermans cottage ina handsome listed building in KingStreet. Crew training takes placefrom 9am to 12noon on Sundays.Around RedcarSALTBURN-BY-THE-SEA5 miles SE of Redcar on the A174BInclined TramwayBSmugglers Heritage CentreEItalian GardensThis charming seaside town (complete with apier) at the northern end ofthe 36-mileHeritage Coast, is largely the work oftheVictorians. It stands on a cliffhigh above along, sandy beach, and to transport visitorsfrom the town to the promenade and beach,the ingenious Inclined Tramway was built. Itis still in use, the oldest such tramway tosurvive in Britain. A miniature railway runsfrom the seafront to the Italian Gardens andthe Woodland Centre, set between the formalpleasure gardens and the wild naturalwoodland beyond. The pre-Victorian Saltburnwas a notorious haunt ofsmugglers, and thosedays are brought to life in the SmugglersHeritage Centre, set in old fishermenscottages next to the Ship Inn in Old Saltburn.Inclined Tramway, Saltburn20Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukHartlepoolASandwellgateASt Hildas ChurchBHistoric QuayBHMS TrincomaleeBLifeboat StationBMuseum HArt GalleryThere are really two Hartlepools the oldtown on the headland, and the newer partwith the marina and town centre, formerlyknown as West Hartlepool. Up until 1968they were separate boroughs, but have nowbeen combined under the one name. Thetown, like Stockton-on-Tees andDarlington, is a unitary authority.A proud maritime town, the old part ofHartlepool dates back centuries. In the MiddleAges it was the only port within CountyDurham that was allowed to trade outside thePalatinate, thus confirming its importance.After the Norman Conquest, the Bruce family,whose most notable member was Robert theBruce, King ofScotland, acquired the town.In 1201 King John bestowed a market charteron Hartlepool and ordered that walls be builtto defend it against the marauding Scots.Today, parts ofthe wall remain and continueHartlepool Historic Quay& MuseumJackson Dock, Maritime Avenue,Hartlepool, TS24 0XZTel: 01429 860006Fax: 01429 867332e-mail:historic.quay@hartlepool.gov.ukwebsite: www.thisishartlepool.comOpen every day all year round and voted one ofthe top six Heritage and History attractions inthe UK, Hartlepool Historic Quay and Museumis a fun day out for all the family. Here you willfind a re-creation of an 18th-century seaport, which tells the story of life at sea at the timeof Captain Cook and Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar. As well as the coffee shop and giftshop, authentic reconstructions of harbour-side shopssurround the Quay, including gunsmiths, tailors andinstrument makers. A film presentation shows howtwo brothers were pressganged into serving aboardship and Fighting Ships lets you experience thenoise and drama of a naval sea battle.Guided tours are available of HMS Trincomalee,launched in Bombay in 1817. The oldest floatingwarship in Britain, it has been lovingly restored atHartlepool Historic Quay.The Museum tells the story of Hartlepool fromprehistoric times to the present day and includesexhibits such as sea monsters, a Celtic Roundhouse,the first gas illuminated lighthouse, models,computer interactive displays and PSS Wingfield - afully restored Paddle Steamer.21Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukto stand guard over the headland. There is aparticularly fine gatehouse, calledSandwellgate, with solid turrets on eitherside. Go through the pointed archway and youfind yourselfon the beach.Built by the Bruces as a burial place, theornate 13th-century St Hildas Churchstands on the site ofa monastery founded bySt Aidan in AD647. The church is dedicatedto St Hilda its most famous abbess celebrated for her teachings and hermentoring ofa poor cowherd Caedmon, nowregarded as the creator ofreligious verse.Hilda subsequently went on to found thegreat monastery at Whitby, where the SynodofWhitby was held in AD664. The churchhouses a collection ofreligious artefacts,Saxon wall carvings and a tomb, made ofFrosterley marble, believed to be that ofRobert the Bruce. Parts ofthe cemetery wereexcavated in the 19th century, and some ofthe finds are on display in Durham andNewcastle.Hartlepools harbour gradually went intodecline, and by the early 1700s the place wasno more than a fishing village. In 1835 workstarted on opening up the harbour oncemore, and rail links were established with thecoalfields. But the project faced stiffcompetition. In 1847 work started on theWest Harbour and Coal Dock, and by 1860 itwas thriving with timber and shipyards.Other docks were opened and Ralph WardJackson, a local entrepreneur, instigated thebuilding ofa new town with streets ofterraced houses to accommodate the workers.So West Hartlepool was born.On 16 December 1914 Hartlepool was thefirst town in Britain to suffer from enemyaction during World War One when it wasshelled by German warships lying offthe coast.Nowadays, the town is a thriving shoppingcentre, with some interesting touristattractions, including the Hartlepool HistoricQuay and Museum (see panel opposite). Asmall seaport has been constructed aroundone ofthe old docks, showing what life waslike in the early part ofthe 19th century whenBritain was at war with France. Groupedaround the small dock are various businessesand shops, such as a printer, gunsmith, navaltailor, swordsmith and instrument maker.Visitors can also go aboard HMSTrincomalee, a British warship originallylaunched in 1817. Open every day all yearround, the site was voted one ofthe top sixHeritage and History attractions in the UK.Next door is the Hartlepool Museum,with exhibits depicting life in the townthrough the ages. It features tales ofseamonsters and the legend ofthe Hartlepoolmonkey. Washed ashore on a piece ofwreckage during the Napoleonic Wars, localfishermen, unable to understand the monkeysgibberings, presumed it to be a French spy andhung it from a gibbet on Fish Sands. Visitorsto the museum can have coffee aboard thePSS Wingfield Castle, an old paddle steamer.Hartlepools Lifeboat Station is open forvisits daily, with crew training on Tuesdayevenings and Sunday mornings.Hartlepool Art Gallery is housed within abeautifully-restored Victorian church onChurch Square. It features a collection ofcontemporary art and photographicexhibitions. A 100-feet-high tower affords thevisitor great views ofthe town. The localtourist information office is located here, too.22Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukAroundHartlepoolBILLINGHAM5 miles SW ofHartlepooloffthe A19ASt Cuthberts ChurchModernBillinghamgrew up as a result ofthe great chemicalplants that surroundedthe River Tees.Although the townlooks modern, it is infact an ancient place, possibly founded byBishop Ecgred ofLindisfarne in the 9thcentury. St Cuthberts Church has a 10th-century Saxon tower, and Saxon walls survivein the nave. The chancel was rebuilt andwidened in 1939 to provide for the townsgrowing population due to the influx ofworkers to the chemical plants. In August,Billingham hosts the week-long BillinghamInternational Folklore Festival. Close by isthe attractive village ofWolviston.ELWICK4 miles W ofHartlepool offthe A19ASt Peters ChurchElwick is a small, pretty village with patches ofvillage green running up each side ofa mainstreet lined with neat, unassuming cottages. StPeters Church has a nave dating from the13th century. The chancel was rebuilt in the17th century using materials from the previouschancel, and its tower was added on in 1813.On either side ofthe chancel arch are twosmall Saxon carvings possibly fragments ofgrave markers.HART2 miles NW ofHartlepool on the A179AChurch of St Mary MagdaleneIn this quiet village stands the mother churchofHartlepool, the Church ofSt MaryMagdalene, which has varied examples ofarchitecture. The nave is Saxon, the towerand font are Norman, and the chancel is early19th century.On the outer wall ofthe White Hart Inn isa figurehead, said to have been a relic from theRising Sun, which was shipwrecked offHartlepool in 1861.PETERLEE6 miles N ofHartlepool offthe A19ASt Marys ChurchECastle Eden Dene Nature ReservePeterlee is a new town, established in 1948 torehouse the mining families from the collieryvillages around Easington and Shotton. Thetown has a modern shopping centre, a touristinformation office and a market. Close by isthe village ofEasington whose fine old StSt Cuthberts Church, Billingham23Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukMarys Church sits on a low hill. The churchtower is Norman, and the interior containssome examples ofCosin-style woodwork.Castle Eden Dene National NatureReserve, on the south side ofthe town, is ofnational importance, being the largest area ofsemi-natural woodland in the North East,which means that it has not been planted orextensively altered by man. It covers 500 acresand lies in a steep-sided valley on magnesianlimestone, with a wide variety ofnative treesand shrubs, wild flowers, bird life andbutterflies, including the Castle Eden Argus,which is found only in eastern CountyDurham. There is a network offootpaths,some steep and narrow. Visitors are requestedto keep to paths at all times to avoid damage.SEAL SANDS3 miles S ofHartlepool offthe A689Standing in the shadows ofHartlepoolNuclear Power Station is Seal Sands and theTeesmouth Field Centre. Local organisationshave come together to protect and enhancethe marshes, tidal flats and dunes here on thenorth shore ofthe Tees estuary. The area isprotected as a Nature Reserve and popularwith people who come to view its largeCommon and Grey seal population andthousands ofmigratory birds.TRIMDON9 miles W ofHartlepool on the B1278ASt Mary Magdalene ChurchThere are a trio ofvillages with the wordTrimdon in their name Trimdon Grange,Trimdon Colliery and Trimdon itself. Its aquiet village with a wide main street and theunpretentious medieval St Mary MagdaleneChurch.Trimdon Colliery is two miles to thenortheast, and it was here, in 1882, that theTrimdon Colliery pit disaster took place. Agreat underground explosion claimed the livesof74 miners.ConsettCShotley BridgeDHownsgill ViaductJDerwent Walk Country Park JAllensfordJDeneburn WoodSteel-making first started in this area ofCounty Durham at Shotley Bridge, whencraftsmen from Germany set up their furnacesin the 1600s and began making swords andcutlery. When the railway came here to servethe local iron works and surrounding collieriesin the 19th century, Shotley Bridge began todevelop something ofa reputation as a spatown, and its popularity as such is evidentfrom the many fine houses that can still beseen, including the Dial House.Steel-making on a grand scale began inConsett in 1840, when the Derwent IronCompany built two blast furnaces. By 1890 over7,500 people were employed in the industry,and over one million tonnes ofsteel was beingproduced. In the late 1960s, 6,000 people werestill employed in the steelworks, though thiswasnt to last. The demand for steel dropped,and in 1980 the works closed down.Consett is now cleaning itselfup. Landreclamation schemes have smartened up thearea where the steelworks once stood, and itsattendant spoil heaps have made way for greenhillocks dotted with young trees. Thecountryside outside the town has someinteresting places to visit.A redundant railway line north ofthe townis linked to the Derwent Walk Country Park.The park covers 425 acres ofwoodland and24Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukriverside meadow, and the Derwent Walk itselfis the trackbed ofthe old Derwent ValleyRailway between Consett and Swalwell. Themain walk is 11 miles long, and suitable forcycles, horses and wheelchairs. It gives accessto a number ofpaths, which include naturetrails, the South Tyne Cycleway and theHeritage Way. Swalwell Visitor Centre, situatedat the northern end ofthe Derwent Walk, isthe starting point for a history trail and has alarge pond and butterfly garden. There isanother visitors centre at ThornleyWoodlands.The local council has produced a smallguidebook outlining various walks, none morethan six and a halfmiles long, near the town.To the southwest ofConsett, almost in theNorth Pennines, is Allensford Park. It sitsoff the A68, on the County Durham andNorthumberland border, and on the banks ofthe Derwent. It has a picnic park, caravan siteand woodland walks. Deneburn Wood, a10-acre plot ofwoodland with some delightfulwalks, also contains wood carvings bywellknown sculptor David Gross.To the south ofthe town is HownsgillViaduct, constructed in 1857 to take the trackofthe Stanhope and Tyne Railway. Visitorscan now walk across it, and there are somespectacular views.Around ConsettEBCHESTER10 miles SW of Gateshead on the A694ASt Ebbas ChurchEbchester is the site ofa Roman fort calledVindomora, and some scant remains can beseen in the churchyard ofSt Ebbas Church.It was one ofa string offorts on Dere Street,the Roman road that linked York with thenorth. Inside the church are a number ofinscribed Roman stones, including an altar tothe god Jupiter, the greatest and the best.Chester-le-StreetAChurch of St Mary & St CuthbertALumley CastleBAnkers House MuseumEWaldridge Fell Country ParkChester-le-Street is a busy market town builtaround the confluence ofCong Burn and theRiver Wear. There was a Romanfort here at one time, and thestreet on which the town oncestood was a Roman road, laterreplaced by the Great NorthRoad.The medieval St Marys andSt Cuthberts Church is builton the site of a cathedralestablished in AD883 by themonks ofLindisfarne carryingthe body ofSt Cuthbert. Hiscoffin rested here for 113 yearsuntil the monks took it to itsHownsgill Viaduct, Consett25Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukfinal resting place at Durham. There are noless than 14 effigies (not all ofthem genuine)of members of the Lumley family within thechurch, though they dont mark the sites oftheir graves. Next to the church is the AnkersHouse Museum, situated in the medievalanchorite. Between 1383 and 1547, variousanchorites, or Christian hermits, lived here.Lumley Castle, to the east across the RiverWear, was built in 1389 by Sir Ralph Lumley,whose descendant, Sir Richard Lumley,became the 1st Earl of Scarborough in the1690s. In the early 18th century it wasrefashioned by the architect Vanbrugh for the2nd Earl, and turned into a magnificent statelyhome. But gradually the castle fell out offavour with the Lumley family, and they choseto stay in their estates in Yorkshire instead. Fora while the castle was owned by DurhamUniversity before being turned into theluxurious hotel that it is today.Waldridge Fell Country Park, two milessouthwest ofChester-le-Street and close toWaldridge village, is County Durhams lastsurviving area oflowland heathland. A carpark and signed footpaths give access to over300 acres ofopen countryside, rich innatural history.Around Chester-le-StreetBEAMISH4 miles N ofChester-le-Street on the A693BNorth of England Open Air MuseumACausey ArchBTanfield RailwayThe award-winning Beamish, The North ofEngland Open Air Museum (see panel onpage 92) is situated in 300 acres ofbeautifulCounty Durham countryside and vividlyillustrates life in the North ofEngland in theearly 1800s and 1900s. This is one oftheNorth Easts leading tourist attractions.Buildings from throughout the region havebeen brought to Beamish, rebuilt andfurnished as they once were, so that visitorscan stroll down a cobbled street full ofshops,banks and offices, visit an old Methodistchapel, find out how life was lived on a farmin the late 19th century, take a trip on a tramor steam train, visit an old dentists surgery(and be grateful you werent alive to have tovisit one back then!), walk through a collieryvillage and go down a drift mine. You can alsosee the worlds third oldest surviving railwayengine, which dates from 1822 and is housedin a specially created GreatEngineShed.Costumedstaffwelcome visitors anddemonstrate the past way oflife.Two miles to the northwest isCausey Arch, reputed to be theworlds first single-arch railwaybridge. It was designed by RalphWood, a local stonemason, andcarried the Tanfield Railway,opened in 1725, betweenSunniside and Causey. In thosedays the wagons were pulled byCausey Arch, nr Beamish26Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukhorses, though steam power eventually tookover. Trains now run along three miles oflinebetween Sunniside and East Tanfield. There isa car park and picnic area close by, and rightsofway link them to Beamish.SEAHAM4 miles S of Sunderland on the B1287ASt Mary the Virgin ChurchASeaham HallJDurham Coastal FootpathSeaham was developed by the Marquises ofLondonderry. In 1821, the family bought whatwas then the old village ofSeaham in order tobuild a harbour from which to transport coalfrom the familys collieries to London and thecontinent. The present town grew up aroundthe harbour, and although most ofthecollieries have now closed, Seaham is still verymuch a working town.All that now remains ofthe original villageis St Mary the Virgin Church (some parts ofwhich date from Saxon times), its vicarage,and Seaham Hall on the northern outskirtsofthe town. This was once the home oftheMilbanke family, where in 1815 Lord Byronmet and married Anne Isabella Milbanke amarriage that was to last for just one year.There is a fine sandy beach in Seaham and anew sculpture trail running between theharbour and Seaham Hall celebrating thetowns heritage. A major feature ofthe coast isBeamishMuseumBeamish, County Durham DH9 0RGTel:0191 370 4000Fax: 0191 370 4001e-mail:museum@beamish.org.ukwebsite:www.beamish.org.ukNo trip to County Durham is complete without atrip to the award-winning Beamish Museum. Setin 300 acres of countryside, it illustrates life inthe North of England in the early 1800s and1900s. There is so much to see. Stroll down acobbled street of shops, houses, a bank andMasonic hall. Visit an old Methodist chapel, findout how life was lived on a farm in the late 19thcentury, take a trip on a tram or steam train, visitan old dentists surgery (and be grateful youdidnt live in those days and needed a filling!),walk through a Pit village, and go down a driftmine.Theres also Pockerley Old Hall, based on asmall fortified manor house. Here you experiencelife as it was lived 200 years ago. Stroll theterraced gardens, walk through the fine horseyard, and see the costumes from that time.Beamish is justly famous as a great day outfor all the family. Reasonably priced meals and snacks are available, and theres a friendlyshop where you can buy souvenirs.27Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukindustrialised upland landscapes in England.Farming developed hand-in-hand with mining,as the miners supported their variable incomewith produce from their smallholdings.Methodism was very strong within thecommunities and many former Methodistchapels can still be seen in the area. There areplenty ofattractions to see here, such as thelead mining museum at Killhope, the curiousfossilised tree stump at Stanhope, and thevillage ofBlanchland, a few miles to the northin Derwentdale.Barnard CastleACastleAMarket CrossBBowes MuseumThis historic market town is a natural centrefor exploring Teesdale and the NorthernPennines. Set beside the River Tees, Barney isrecognised nationally as one of the 51 mosthistorically and architecturally importanttowns in Great Britain. The town gets itsname from Barnard Castle, founded in the12th century by Bernard, son ofGuy deBaliol, one of the knights who foughtalongside William I. The castle played animportant role in the defeat ofthe NorthernEarls who rose against Elizabeth I in 1569.Besieged by rebel forces for 11 days, the castlethe Durham Coastal Footpath, an 11-mileroute that runs from Seaham to CrimdonPark. It passes through dramatic clifftopscenery and deep ravines carved into theMagnesian limestone rock.The Durham DalesThere are two great County Durham dales Teesdale to the south and Weardale to thenorth. Ofthe two, Teesdale is the softer,particularly in its lower reaches, which share anaffinity with the Yorkshire Dales. This isntsurprising, for at one time part ofthe RiverTees formed the boundary between CountyDurham and Yorkshire. The lower dale isdotted with charming villages that nestle alongthe bank ofthe River Tees, as it winds its waybetween the historic towns ofBarnard Castleand Middleton-in-Teesdale. Small farms,whitewashed in the local tradition, aresurrounded by dry stone wall enclosures.Travelling up the dale the vista opens out intomiles ofopen moorland, home to a multitudeofwildlife and unique flora. BeyondMiddleton-in-Teesdale the B6277 winds upand over some bleak but beautiful sceneryuntil it finally arrives at Alston in Cumbria,Englands highest market town.The A689, which winds its waythrough Weardale further north,follows an alternative route toAlston, passing through a dale thatwas once the hunting ground ofDurhams Prince Bishops. Life, atone time, must have been harsh hereand the houses and villages seemgrittier somehow than those ofneighbouring Teesdale. The scars onthe landscape expose the regions pastas one ofthe most heavilyBarnard Castle28Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukwas ultimately forced to surrender, but notbefore its resistance had provided time forQueen Elizabeths army, under the Earl ofSussex, to speed to York and force the rebelsto flee. Many were executed and those leadingfamilies who had supported the plans tooverthrow Elizabeth I lost their lands.The castle ruins, with the imposing roundkeep overlooking the River Tees, have a gauntbeauty. There are picturesque riverside walksthrough the woods that once formed part ofthe castles hunting grounds. A narrow archedbridge, built in 1569, traverses the fast flowingRiver Tees. Formerly spanning the boundariesoftwo counties, and the lands oftwo bishops,illicit weddings were regularly conducted in thecentre ofthe bridge, where neither bishopcould object.The town has an especially rich architecturalheritage, with handsome houses, cottages,shops and inns dating from the 17th to the19th centuries. The octagonal Market Crossis a most impressive building, which datesback to 1747 and has served numerouspurposes such as courthouse, town hall andjail. Underneath the veranda (a later addition)a lively butter market took place. You can stillsee the bullet holes in theweather vane, resulting from awager by two local men in 1804,shooting from outside the TurksHead, 100 yards away, todetermine who was the bestshot. The building was fullyrestored in 1999.The Bank was once the townsmain commercial street and youcan still see several Victorianshop windows. Blagraves Houseis the oldest inhabited buildingand it is here that OliverCromwell is reputed to have stayed in 1648.The locality is now an excellent centre forantique collectors. At the bottom ofthe Bankglimpses ofthe towns industrial roots can stillbe found in Thorngate and Bridgegate.Weavers cottages have been converted intomodern dwellings and grassy slopes cover theremains ofthe riverside woollen mills.A walk along Newgate will bring you to theBowes Museum, surely one ofthe mostspectacular buildings in England and one ofCounty Durhams great surprises. Housed in amagnificent French-style chateau, the museumwas the inspiration ofJohn Bowes, an Englisharistocrat, and Josephine, his French actresswife. The architect was the Frenchman JulesPellechet. The owners love ofthe arts and adesire that people from all walks oflife shouldbe able to partake in such riches resulted inthis superb legacy. Sadly both died before theirdream could be realised. However, themuseum was completed and opened to thepublic in 1892. Today, the museum houses oneofEnglands finest art collections, which hasreceived Designated status from thegovernment and is unrivalled in the North.Artists displayed include El Greco, Tiepolo,Bowes Museum29Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukCanaletto, Boucher, Goya and Courbet. Themost famous and best-loved exhibit isundoubtedly the Silver Swan, a 230-year-oldlife-sized beautifully crafted mechanical birdthat appears to pick up and swallow a fishfrom a silver stream to the backdrop ofatinkly music box. The museum, which is openfrom 11am to 5pm daily, boasts 23 acres ofbeautiful parkland, including a splendidparterre garden.Around Barnard CastleGRETA BRIDGE4 miles SE ofBarnard Castle on the A66AMortham TowerEThorpe Farm CentreJRokeby ParkLovers ofromantic landscape should maketheir way south ofBarnard Castle to GretaBridge on the A66 the graceful old bridgeimmortalised in paintings by great Englishwatercolourists such as Cotman and Turner.Footpaths run by the riverside, through theedge ofRokeby Park. Close by are the ruinsofmedieval Mortham Tower, subject ofSirWalter Scotts narrative poem ofcolourfulchivalry and courtly love, Rokeby. The elegantPalladian house, where Scott stayed to writehis poem, is open to the public during thesummer months.Just to the southeast ofGreta Bridge liesThorpe Farm Centre, a 17th-century farmcomplex that has been transformed into oneofthe areas main tourist attractions.EGGLESTONE ABBEY2 miles SofBarnard Castle, near the A66Southeast ofBarnard Castle the road leadsover an old packhorse bridge to EgglestoneAbbey. It is made up ofthe ruins ofaPremonstratensian abbey ofwhich most ofthe nave and chancel, built in the 13th and14th centuries, survives. Close by is theMeeting ofthe Waters where the river Gretajoins the River Tees, creating splendid views.BOWES4 miles SW ofBarnard Castle offthe A66GNicholas NicklebyEOtter Trust ReserveThe ruined Norman castle ofBowes was builton the site ofa Roman fort, guarding theapproach to Stainmore Pass. In 1838 CharlesDickens visited the village to collect materialfor his third novel Nicholas Nickleby, andnoticed an academy for boys run by WilliamShaw in the main street. The school becamethe model for Dotheboys Hall and Shaw wasimmortalised as Wackford Squeers. Shaw isburied in the churchyard ofSt Giles churchalong with George Taylor, Dickens inspirationfor Smike. I think, Dickens later said, hisghost put Smike into my head upon the spot.Three miles west ofBowes on the southside ofthe A66 is the Otter Trusts NorthPennines Reserve (known locally as theBowes Otter Sanctuary), a 230-acre wildlifereserve with British and Asian otters and birdhides overlooking wetland areas.COTHERSTONE3 miles NW ofBarnard Castle on the B6277Cotherstone is one ofthe most attractive ofthe Teesside villages. The River Balder flowsinto the Tees here and the foaming Meetingofthe Waters is an impressive sight after arainy spell. A delightful riverside walk leadswestwards to Hury, Blackton and Balderheadreservoirs. Cotherstone Castle, licensed byKing John in 1200, is now just a steep moundto the north ofthe village, but the village hasa fine Victorian church, several greens and a30Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uk31Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukcharming mix ofhouses ofvarious agesand styles.ROMALDKIRK4 miles NW ofBarnard Castle on the B6277Between Middleton and Barnard Castle, theB6277 follows the south bank ofthe RiverTees passing through a series ofpretty,unspoiled villages to Romaldkirk whoseimpressive church is known as the Cathedralofthe Dales. It is dedicated to the little-known St Romald or Rumwald, son ofaNorthumbrian king who could miraculouslyspeak at birth. Beautiful stone houses are setaround spacious greens and there aredelightful walks close to the river.EGGLESTON6 miles NW ofBarnard Castle on the B6281EEggleston Hall GardensWithin the grounds ofEggleston Hall are theEggleston Hall Gardens, which are open tothe public all year. There are four acres ofgarden here within the high wall that onceenclosed the kitchen garden. The ornamentalgardens are laid out informally, with many rareherbaceous plants and shrubs to be seen.Vegetables are cultivated using the traditionalorganic methods. Close by, the ruins ofan oldchurch can be explored.MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE10 miles NW ofBarnard Castle on the B6277DHigh ForceDLow ForceDCauldron SnoutJThe Pennine WayMiddleton-in-Teesdale, the capital ofUpperTeesdale, is a small working town in adramatically beautiful setting with the RiverTees running below, while all around is a greatbackcloth ofgreen hills within the NorthPennines Area ofOutstanding Natural Beauty.The towns links with the lead-mining industrycan be seen in the Market Square, where thereis a handsome cast-iron fountain, which waspurchased and placed there in 1877 by theemployees ofthe Quaker-owned LondonLead Mining Company. The expense wascovered from subscriptions raised for theretirement ofthe companys localsuperintendent, Robert Bainbridge. At thewest end ofHude is Middleton House, thecompanys former headquarters.Although the lead-mining industrydisappeared at the beginning of the 19thcentury, Middleton still retains the strongfeeling ofbeing a busy working town. Thesurrounding hills still bear the scars, with theremains ofold workings, spoil-heaps anddeep, and often dangerous, shafts. The townsagricultural links remain strong, too, withstreets bearing names such as Market Place,Horsemarket and Seed Hill. Like BarnardCastle, it is increasing in popularity as a basefrom which to explore Teesdale and theNorthern Pennines.Middleton is the centre for somemagnificent walks in Upper Teesdale. Themost famous ofthese is The Pennine Way,which passes through the town on its 250-mile route from Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholmin Scotland. Turning west along Teesdale theThe Old Church, Egglestone Hall Gardens32Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uktrack passes through flower-richmeadows, traditional,whitewashed farmsteads andspectacular, riverside scenery,including the thrilling waterfallsat Low Force, High Force andCauldron Snout.The majestic High Force isEnglands largest waterfall interms ofwater flow, with adramatic 21-metre drop overGreat Whin Sill at the end ofawooded gorge. After heavyrainfall its rumble can be heardover a mile away. Visitors can enjoy the prettywoodland walk, which twists and turns with adifferent view every few metres. Then thedistant rumble turns into a roar, you peerthrough the trees and there it is. The sight willastound you. Low Force isnt so much awaterfall as a series ofcascades, and while lessspectacular than its upstream neighbour, it isarguably more beautiful. Further up the Daleis Cow Green Reservoir and below itCauldron Snout, a 61-metre cascade downdolerite steps. Look out for the Blue Gentian,a rare flower dating back to the last Ice Age.About three miles west ofMiddleton-in-Teesdale, near the village ofNewbiggin, is theBowlees Visitor Centre, where information onthe natural history and geology ofthe area canbe obtained. A picnic area and car park havebeen provided.STAINDROP5 miles NE ofBarnard Castle on the A688ARaby CastleASt Marys ChurchSet in a magnificent 200-acre deer park on theoutskirts ofthe village, Raby Castle is one ofthe countrys finest medieval castles, aromantic, fairy-tale building thatwas once the home ofthepowerful Nevill family.Described as the most perfectofall our northern castles,most ofthe present castle wasbuilt in the 1300s and ismiraculously well preserved.Theres a sturdy Gatehouse,complete with portcullis andconduits for pouring boiling oilon attackers, and a series ofmighty towers, includingBulmers Tower, which is uniqueHigh Force, Middleton-in-TeesdaleLow Force, Middleton-in-Teesdale33Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukin England in having five sides.It also has an extraordinary,cavernous kitchen dating back to1360, and a Garrison Room withwalls between 10 and 20 feetthick. In rich contrast is thesumptuously furnished anddecorated Octagon DrawingRoom, added in the 1840s. Themost breathtaking room,however, is the medieval BaronsHall where, in 1569, 700dissident nobles gathered to plotthe doomed Rising ofthe Northin support ofMary, Queen ofScots. The failed insurrection caused thedownfall ofthe Nevills, and since 1626 RabyCastle has been the seat ofthe Vane family.Other attractions at Raby include its beautifulwalled gardens, a deer park and a collection ofwonderful old coaches. The Stable Tearoomsserve tasty and fortifying refreshments.Staindrop itselfis a delightful, very typical,Durham village, with a long village green linedwith Georgian houses. St Marys Church,with its Saxon core, houses tombs oftheNevill and Vane families.HAMSTERLEYFOREST9 miles N ofBarnard Castle offthe A68JHamsterley ForestHamsterley Forest is one ofthe ForestryCommissions most attractive forest parks.This huge area encompassing over 5,500 acresofmature woodland is managed for timberproduction, and has 1,100 acres available forrecreation. A wide range ofactivities are onoffer for visitors including informal or guidedwalks, orienteering, horse-riding and cycling(bikes can be hired). There is a visitors centrewith displays on forestry, wildlife and timberusage, and large, grassy areas make splendidpicnic spots.Surprisingly, the forest is relatively recent inorigin, having been planted only 40 to 50 yearsago. Much ofit covers areas once worked bythe lead-mining industry. This is a good spotto discover a range ofwild flowers and, in thedamper places, funghi. Red squirrels can stillbe seen along with roe deer, badgers, addersand up to 40 species of birds including heron,woodcock, sparrow hawk, woodpeckers,fieldfare and goldfinch.WYCLIFFE6 miles E ofBarnard Castle offthe A66Wycliffe is a picturesque hamlet nestlingbeside the River Tees, and was once thecrossing point from Yorkshire into CountyDurham. It is believed to be the birthplace ofJohn Wycliffe, the English theologian andproponent ofthe reformation ofthe RomanCatholic Church, who made the firsttranslation ofthe Bible into English. Theimposing stone church ofSt Marys is anancient building, rebuilt by Edward III in the14th century.Raby Castle, Staindrop34Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukStanhopeACastleAStanhope Old HallCHeathery BurnStanhope, the capital ofUpper Weardale, is asmall town ofgreat character and individuality,which marks the boundary between the softerscenery oflower Weardale and the wilderscenery to the west. The stone cross in theMarket Place is the only reminder ofa weeklymarket held in the town by virtue ofa 1421charter. The market continued until Victoriantimes. Today the town is still an importantlocal centre for shops and supplies for thesurrounding villages.Enjoying an attractive rural setting in thecentre ofthe dale, with a choice oflocalwalks, Stanhope, in its quiet way, is becoming asmall tourist centre with pleasant shops andcafs. The town itselfis well worth exploringon foot and a useful walkabout town trail isavailable locally or from information centres.Stanhope enjoyed its greatest period ofprosperity in the 18th and 19th centurieswhen the lead and iron-stone industries wereat their height, as reflected in the townsbuildings and architecture.The most dominant building in the MarketSquare is Stanhope Castle, aramblingstructure complete with mock-Gothiccrenellated towers, galleries and battlements.The building is, in fact, an elaborate follybuilt by the MP for Gateshead, CuthbertRippon, in 1798.In 1875 it was enlarged to hold a privatecollection ofmineral displays and stuffedbirds for the entertainment ofVictorianBETTYPODKINSWEARDALE ART & ANTIQUES65a Front Street, Stanhope,Co DurhamDL13 2TYTel:01388 528397e-mail:shop@bettypodkins.co.ukStanhope is a pleasant little town on theA689 a few miles west of Bishop Auckland.Much of its architecture reflects the townsindustrial heritage, but nowhere in the towngives a truer feel of the area both past andpresent than Betty Podkins, a super little shop specialising in Weardale Arts and Antiques.Owner Kate Rees stocks her shop with all manner of local artefacts, particularly items thatwould have been found in a typical 19th century Weardale cottage: vernacular tables and chairs,country pottery, kitchenalia, oil lamps, clocks and fireplace paraphernalia including fenders, pokers,bellows, copper kettles, chestnut roasters and ale mullers. Theres always a selection of paintings,prints and sketches by local artists of local scenes, and Kate also stocks fairtraded and recycledgoods typified by felt brooches and flowers, rugs made from recycled sari silk and cards, writingpaper and other products made from sheeppoo. With the stock changing constantly, every visit toBetty Podkins is guaranteed to reveal new surprises. Shop hours are 10 to 5 Monday, Tuesday,Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, also open 12 to 4 Sundays in summer and on the run-up toChristmas and Easter; closed all Thursdays.Betty Podkins is a fictitious character created in the late 19th century by the Weardale historianWilliam Morley Egglestone. His stories about her help to preserve the Weardale dialect and providea fascinating insight into traditional Weardale culture.35Guide to Rural England DURHAM Fstories and anecdotesGfamous peopleHart and craftIentertainment and sportJwalks Ahistoric buildingBmuseum and heritageChistoric siteDscenic attractionEflora and faunaLooking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.ukgrouse-shooting parties. In the gardens is theDurham Dales Tourist Information Centre.St Thomass Church, by the Market Square,has a tower whose base is Norman, and somemedieval glass in the west window. In thechurchyard youll find a remarkable fossiltree stump, which was discovered in 1962 ina local quarry.Stanhope Old Hall, aboveStanhopeBurn Bridge, is generally accepted to be oneofthe most impressive buildings in Weardale.This huge, fortified manor house wasdesigned to repel Scottish raiders. The hallitselfis part medieval, part Elizabethan andpart Jacobean. The outbuildings included acornmill, a brew house and cattleyards. It is now a hotel.One ofthe most importantBronze Age archaeological finds evermade in Britain was at HeatheryBurn, a side valley offStanhopeBurn. In 1850, quarrymen cut throghthe floor ofa cave to find a hu