1. Guided vs Unguided Climbing/Adventure Travel By Steve Hughes

2. My Experience being Guided CMS 1992 Mountaineering Course Longs Cable Route Alaska Guides 1996 4 Day Admiralty Island Canoe/Wildlife Photography CMS 1998 3 days of Ice/Rock/Alpine route CMC 2002 BMS Shasta Mountain Guides 2000 5.6 Trad climb CMS 2002 Ecuador Illinaza/Cotopaxi Hallo Bay Bear Camp 1999 Wildlife Photography Apple Trips - 2006 - Costa Rica - Ecolodge Trip Kodiak Treks 2012 Wildlife Photography

3. My Experience being a Guide CMC WTS Instructor - 2001 CMC BMS Assistant Instructor 2002, 2004 CMC BMS Senior Instructor 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 CMC HAMS Assistant Instructor 2011 Hallo Bay Bear Camp Wilderness Guide 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

4. My Experiences Unguided 54 Fourteeners Rainier 1996/2011 Denali 2007/2012 Multiple CO High Peaks/Snow Climbs/Trad Rock Lost Coast Backpack CA West Coast Trail Vancouver Island Katmai National Park 8 years of backcountry travel

5. Unguided Denali Summit Team

6. Guided Illinaza Summit Team

7. What are your goals? To climb a specific peak or peaks To learn new skills To travel to a foreign location To have a new experience To meet and climb with like minded folks

8. Unguided Rainier - 1996

9. Unguided Rainer - 1996

10. Unguided climbing obstacles Finding others to climb with Knowledge of the area you want to travel to Skill level needed to accomplish goal Time to plan or organize trip/expedition $$$ to spend on gear and/or guides Ability to be a facilitator, organizer, manager of safety, and head of the decision making process

11. Considerations for Guided Eliminates worry about food, fuel, group gear, and larger areas of risk management. Remove daunting tasks of researching the route, preparing food, arranging for travel and other logistical details as well as planning day to day itineraries. Climbers can concentrate on getting in shape and practicing skills needed for their goal. Potential access to use or rent expensive gear for trip

12. Consideration for Guided Decision process will likely be out of your control What is the skill level of the guide you want to hire? Is the guide certified or accredited? Has the guide previously lead the trip you are interested in? What kind of clients will be on the trip with you? If tents are involveddo you know your tent mate?

13. Considerations for Unguided Ability to set your own pace and adjust your itinerary as needed Familiarity with the other climbers in your group as well as the extent of their abilities and training Leadership/Team dynamics/Friendship The cheaper cost cannot be overlooked! The satisfaction and accomplishment of executing a well planned and hopefully successful trip

14. Beware of the Internet Finding partners via forums Met them and climb with them prior to your goal if possible What is their climbing resume and is it factual? Ask them specifics about the skills needed for your goal? What is their training regimen? Find out as much about them as you can

15. Climbing Options Assuming that you are already fully equipped with the long list of specialized high altitude, cold weather gear, there are three types of expeditions you can consider: Guided Supported Unguided Your decision will depend largely on the ability and experience level of your team, but also on your confidence level, and on your motivation for doing the climb in the.

16. Example Costs for Denali Guided Guided Expedition: $5,000 to $11,000 Choosing a guide service means that you are responsible only for your travel to Anchorage, your own personal gear, and your physical and mental preparation and training. The guide service meets you in Anchorage and except for your climbing permit, room and board in Talkeetna, and personal expenses, they will cover everything until you return to Anchorage following your climb. $400 to $550 Round trip airfare, lower 48 to Anchorage $5,150 to $6,000 Professionally guided West Buttress ascent $200 Denali National Park Service climbing permit fee $200 Gratuity for your guide

17. Example Costs for Denali Supported Supported Expedition: $1,600 to $2,450 If you want to climb the mountain unguided, but would like help arranging for certain supplies and transportation once youre in Alaska, there are companies set up for just that purpose. Depending on the level you choose, a support program will provide you with transportation from the airport to your hotel, will help you pick up supplies in Anchorage, drive you to Talkeetna, and arrange for your air taxi to Base Camp. They will also plan and purchase a specified number of days of food, give advice when asked, pay your Denali National Park Entry fee and your Base Camp fee, and provide you with a sled that youll use to ferry your supplies. $400 to $550 Round trip airfare, lower 48 to Anchorage $1,000 to $1,700 Expedition Support Team $200 Denali National Park Service climbing permit fee

18. Example Costs for Denali Unguided Independent Expedition: $1,225 to $1,375* You and your team members are responsible for all the advance arrangements, reservations, fees, etc. For instance, you must obtain permission to do your climb 60 days prior to your arrival at the park. Once in Anchorage, you will need a day or two to assemble your gear and purchase food and supplies for approximately 2-3 weeks on the mountain. $400 to $550 Round trip airfare from lower 48 to Anchorage $100 Round trip shuttle drive to Talkeetna $250 Denali National Park Service fee for climbing the mountain $10 Denali National Park & Preserve entrance fee $500 Round trip air taxi to Kahiltna Glacier (Base Camp) price often includes sled rental and fuel for stoves (note: 125 lb. per person weight limit on plane) $15 - Base Camp fee *plus food, supplies, meals & lodging

19. Consideration #3 Choosing a Guide Factor #1: Are they legitimate? Factor #2: Approach, Strategy and Quality of the Trip Factor #3: Staff Factor#4: Cost, inclusions, and exclusions Factor #5: Safety Factor #6: Equipment

20. Guided - Cable Route - 1990

21. Guided Dream Weaver - 1996

22. Unguided Bancroft - 2011

23. Questions for any Guide Service Find out who is guiding your climb and how many times they have guided the trip you are interested in (not just climbed). Ask about the guide service safety record and if they have liability insurance for your particular trip. How long has the guide service been in business? Are they permitted to climb in the area you are interested in? If not, are they climbing on an authorized guides service permit? What are the climber to guide ratios on a particular trip or course? What is the maximum team size? How big was the last expedition to that area? Is the guide service operating your trip or are they simply hiring a subcontractor and guide in that country? Why has the guide service opted for this and in how many locations does this occur? Ask which of the company's staff have visited the country and how the expedition was designed.

24. Questions for any Guide Service Ask about their success record and inquire as to why they feel individuals do well for a particular climb. Also ask where "summit success" factors into their philosophy of a successful trip. Does the office staff handle your inquiries promptly? And are the company's materials equivalent of the type of quality you are interested in pursuing: Does the company have brochures, full-time office staff and the ability to answer your questions? Decide what your priorities are such as summit success, safety, cultural interest etc. and question the guide service about those interests. Also quality of tents, food, logistical support, experience in dealing with a particular country. Chat with former climbers, trekkers or students and ask for someone who has been on multiple trips with that company as a contrast can often be interesting and informational. If you are interested in learning about climbing while being guided, you may inquire as to if your guide is also a teacher. Ask why a guide service is more or less expensive and what you are buying (or not buying) for their fee. Ask them to compare themselves to other guide services.

25. Qualifications and Training International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) - 21 different member countries All guides who are IFMGA licensed Mountain Guides have qualified through one of the 21 member associations. The training and examination process takes years, often as many as four or five and costs tens of thousands of dollars. US Climbing and ski mountaineering guides don't need any type of official guide training or certification to guide American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) - AMGA is the only guide association whose training and certification programs are recognized internationally by the IFMGA AMGA has been certifying guides for about 15 years and offers a number of different types of certifications. Those guides who are certified at the highest level in all 3 disciplines are awarded the internationally recognized credential of IFMGA Mountain Guide.

26. More Guided Thoughts Only hire a guide who you know to have received specific and formal training through an internationally recognized IFMGA-member mountain guides association. In the USA and Canada, where a guide can be certified in individual disciplines, be sure that they are trained and assessed in the basic discipline of your planned activity, either Rock, Alpine or Ski.

27. Final Certification Thoughts Accreditation verses Certification (an American oddity) The American Mountain Guides Association offers two different credentials for guides and guide services. Guide services get Accredited, and individual guides get Certified. Certification is considered to be the much more rigorous standard. For example, to become Alpine certified a guide must pass a 10-day field exam, conducted in a variety of terrain types, from alpine rock to glacier and ice routes. Pass rate for candidates is about 60 to 70%. In addition, guides normally take one or more guides training courses to prepare for the exam, which can be physically and mentally quite taxing. By the time the guide has completed all the various training courses and exams, the first aid requirement and the required avalanche training, he or she has had about 40 to 50 days worth of training and examination. And that's only for the Alpine guiding discipline. Accreditation is a very different AMGA program that involves a review of a company's administrative aspects and a brief review of infield practices. Normally the review is conducted over 2 days, one day in the office and one day observing a course or climb in the field

28. Other Options for Guided Trips Clubs such as the CMC offer guided trips to various locations in the US and outside countries Local Guides in foreign countries to cut some of the costs of the middle man

29. Guided

30. Unguided

31. Final Thoughts Guided climbing can make someone's impossible dream of climbing Everest become a reality -- and that is a great gift -- because the guide has the deep, heartfelt knowledge of the mountains and what happens to people on mountains. The guide has the judgment and self-reliance to steer that someone to the summit Anyone who believes there is ever a guarantee to reach the summit is either delusional or simply kidding themselves. Anyone who promotes such a guarantee is being dishonest. The role of the guide and the guide service, in my opinion, is to provide the best opportunity for the client to perform at their best and return safely. The summit may be part of this process, but may not. If the client has been allowed to operate at the best level they can at the time, they should not blame anyone but themselves if they do not summit .