h. moser & cie catalogue, english edition

P A S S I O N A T E LY D I F F E R E N T

W A T C H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S

M O S E R S C H A F F H A U S E N A G

S W I T Z E R L A N D

THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY

HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG

ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY

OF THE RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN.

EUROPE’S LARGEST WATERFALL

ATTRACTS VISITORS FROM ALL OVER

THE WORLD EVERY YEAR.

AT AN AVERAGE FLOW, AROUND

700 CUBIC METRES OF WATER

PER SECOND CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS

AND OFFER A SPECTACULAR SIGHT.

7C O N T E N T S

CONTENTS

9 FOREWORD

10 WATCHMAKING TRADITION OF SCHAFFHAUSEN ON THE RHINE FALLS 15 COMPANY HISTORY HEINR ICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER

SCHAFFHAUSEN T IME

COMPANY AND BR AND NAME

26 TURN OF THE MILLENIUM V IS IONS

32 MOSER PERPETUAL 1 PERPE TUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR

40 MONARD DATE THE L ARGE DATE FROM MOSER

DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM

48 MONARD CENTRE SECONDS

MOSER DUAL BARREL

56 MAYU WHEEL S, P IN IONS AND LE VERS

SECONDS STOP FUNCT ION

66 HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING STR AUMANN DOUBLE HA IRSPRING ESCAPEMENT

74 LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS

80 TECHNICAL DETAILS INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE

THE STR AUMANN HA IRSPRING ®

THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART

88 TEAM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS

96 TIMELINE

100 IMPRINT

8

14-CARAT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH

WITH MINUTE REPEATER

AND CHRONOGRAPH, CA 1900

9

It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to

introduce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this

second edition of our catalogue, although the origins

of the company actually go back some 180 years. The

history encompasses the life of my great-grandfather

Heinrich Moser, born more than 200 years ago, who had

already gained an international reputation as a watch-

maker by the age of 21, and the successful relaunch of the

H. Moser & Cie brand in 2005.

At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his

research, the Schaffhausen horologist Dr. Lange came

across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one of

the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & Cie

watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was

delighted to accept the honourable task of representing

the company externally. Today our thanks are due

primarily to the friends of the house of Moser, who have

remained loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our

highly committed shareholders and employees. The new

start would not have been possible without their keen

interest and their passionate involvement. We can look

back with pride over everything that has happened during

this period. Among other things, we were awarded the

prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for our

Moser Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry

Double Hairspring with its revolutionary new escape-

ment system, have also found a place in our family of

watches.

It fi lls me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson

of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where

he used to work and to be able again to present watches

that are entitled to bear the name of such an important

and innovative man.

ROGER NICHOLAS BALSIGER

HONORARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS

MOSER GROUP AG

Schaffhausen, September 2008

F O R E W O R D

FOREWORD

10

Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking

town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th century.

Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter of

Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomical

clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwaagturm tower, which

is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and

Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astro-

nomical clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among

the most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock

by Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied

Arts and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness

to the artistic skills and refi ned craftsmanship of the

watch makers of that period.

THE WATCHMAKING TOWN OF SCHAFFHAUSEN ON THE RHINE FALLS

POCKET WATCH CASE

«GEORG MICHAEL MOSER»,

GOLD, CA 1775, HOMBERGER COLLECTION,

SCHAFFHAUSEN

TABLE CLOCK CA 1570, ISAAC HABRECHT,

ASTRONOMICAL COMPLICATIONS

AND MUSICAL MOVEMENT WITH FIGURES,

MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS AND DESIGN WINTERTHUR

11

In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael

Moser (1706–1783), the town once again produced a

horological craftsman whose fame would spread beyond

its boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn

many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael

Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became

a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts

in later years.

More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town

records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser

(1730–1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would

VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED

«ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE»

EARLY 19TH CENTURY

TABLE CLOCK SIGNED

«JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN»,

CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION,

SCHAFFHAUSEN

T R A D I T I O N O F W A T C H M A K I N G

12

THE «HAUS ZUM BLAUEN HIMMEL»

IN SCHAFFHAUSEN’S OLD TOWN

WITH THE FORMER WORKSHOP

OF THE TOWN WATCHMAKER, ERHARD MOSER

the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood

the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in

the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected fi gure.

He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the

trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsman-

ship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in

the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him,

Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupation

as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council and

Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Heinrich

Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Himmel»

in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft. The artistic

skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon gained him

international respect and recognition. He became the lead-

ing Schaffhausen exponent of this craft with businesses

in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among other locations. He

opened a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases

13T R A D I T I O N O F W A T C H M A K I N G

GOLD MINUTE REPEATER

BY HEINRICH MOSER,

END OF THE 19TH CENTURY

in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he established a school for

watchmakers in 1856. He supported F. A. Jones in the

foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC)

in 1868 by providing him with premises and low-cost

electricity supplied via a power transmission system.

IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaffhausen

alive for a great many years and with a very chequered

history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial

courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old»

H. Moser & Cie watch factory. The records tell us that the

establishment of his watch business in Schaffhausen

was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong dream. Now, more

than 200 years after the birth of Heinrich Moser in

Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise which fi rst set up

in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has come full circle

with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

15C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the

large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,

Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen

surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-

making dynasty consolidated over several generations.

He worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824,

where he learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft

from his father, and subsequently broadened his knowl-

edge in the watchmaking town of Le Locle in western

Switzerland. In 1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his

own account and built clocks into cases and pieces of

furniture for a German merchant. His plans to succeed

to the position of town watchmaker after the death of

his father, a vocation which had been performed by the

family for two generations, were thwarted by the town

council in Schaffhausen. He would hold this against the

authorities for the rest of his life.

As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich

Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.

Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent

labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for

watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich

Moser used his free time to build watches and tools

that would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the

equivalent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the

time of his departure in November 1827.

His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything

but comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via

Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-

senger ship to St. Petersburg. After working for a number

of employers as a watchmaker, he founded his own com-

pany in St. Petersburg at the end of 1828. This marked the

inception of the highly successful H. Moser & Cie brand.

HEINRICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER

HEINRICH MOSER’S PASSPORT,

DATING FROM 1872

16

HEINRICH MOSER,

BRONZE BUST IN THE MOSERGARTEN PARK,

SCHAFFHAUSEN


Alongside expensive precision watches and watches de-

signed as pieces of jewellery, Heinrich Moser also

offered a range of simple watches.

In the course of developing his trading network, he

realized that a successful wholesaler would also benefi t

from being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich

Moser accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle

in 1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his

own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high

quality of the products bearing his name. He was later

made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of

his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the

company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as

a historic monument. In addition to the movements pro-

duced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased

movement blanks from such prestigious companies as

Urban Jürgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list

him as a regular customer from 1860.

Heinrich Moser’s constant quest for quality was crowned

by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various

princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a

few years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and

Japan, as well as New York and Paris, where his brother

Georg Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only

15 years after founding his company, Heinrich Moser

was the undisputed market leader in the Russian watch

trade. He returned to his home town of Schaffhausen

as a prosperous watch manufacturer and merchant at the

end of 1848.

BUSINESS DEALINGS

WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS

IN 1867 AND 1868


In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life

following his return to Switzerland was also characterized

by other projects combined with restless creativity. With

his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation

of the previously sleepy town of Schaffhausen into a

dynamic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser

completed the construction of a channel on the River

Rhine, which provided the water power to drive turbines

with an output of around 80 hp. This was followed

in 1853 by a joint venture with other Schaffhausen

personalities for the establishment of Schweizerische

Waggonfabrik bei Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at

Schaffhausen), which changed its name to Schweizer-

ische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss

Industrial Company Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also

a co-founder of the Schaffhausen–Winterthur railway

line in 1853. In the winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser

embarked on the construction of the largest Swiss dam at

that time on the River Rhine at Schaffhausen, which

enabled him to supply neighbouring industrial compa-

nies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission

system. The subsequent establishment of Wasserwerk

Gesellschaft Schaffhausen (Schaffhausen Waterworks

Company) in 1865 marked the dawn of the industrial age

in Schaffhausen.

His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich

Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private

life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable

disappointments. The premature death of his fi rst wife

Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s

otherwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a

while. She would not live to see the completion of the

Charlottenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which

had been named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly

never able to reconcile himself to the fact that his only

son, Henri Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of

his father’s watch business.

Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. The heiress

to all his business interests was his second wife Fanny

Moser, who thus became one of the

wealthiest women in Switzerland.

Present-day visitors to Schaff-

hausen continue to experience the

spirit of Heinrich Moser. The

house where he was born in the

Old Town, known as the «Haus

zum Blauen Himmel», and the

Charlottenfels country manor still

exist. The modern Schaffhausen

power station today stands on the

historic dam on the River Rhine.

The majority of the companies founded by Heinrich Mo-

ser are operating successfully to this day. The residents of

Schaffhausen have honoured their fellow citizen with the

Moserstrasse, with his bronze bust in the Mosergarten

park and, with the Charlottenfels country estate.

SCHAFFHAUSEN T IME

CHARLOTTENFELS COUNTRY MANOR

NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN

MOSER

FAMILY CREST


The fi rst internationally active

company founded by Heinrich

Moser in 1828 was the St. Pe-

tersburg trading company, H.

Moser & Co. From this name,

he developed the company sig-

nature in Latin and Cyrillic

script, which was almost always

accompanied by a seal. In 1829, he opened a watch fac-

tory in Le Locle under the name «H. Moser & Cie.» or also

«H. Moser & Co.». These trade marks were used as the

standard signature on all the watches supplied by Moser’s

watch business until around 1918.

His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser

personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only

from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level.

The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.

SIGNATORIES OF

H. MOSER & CIE

DATING FROM 1842

FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK

WITH MOSER DUAL BARREL MOVEMENT

Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and

to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also

in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood

for quality and met the highest expectations throughout

the world.

Heinrich Moser also included

other watch companies among

his customers. For example, the

famous Fabergé table clocks

were equipped almost without

exception with movements pro-

duced by Moser; even at that

time, incidentally, these clocks

had two spring barrels arranged

in series.

COMPANY AND BR AND NAME


Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife sold

the two businesses with the proviso that they would

continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or

«Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was

eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of

the company name. The style Hy. Moser & Cie. was

evidently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch

factory had become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group

as «Hy Moser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser

watches has been in the antique market.

BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS,

CA 1870 TO 1890,

LANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN

The Russian operation had already been expropriated

without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the

October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the state-

owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in

Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch businesses.

Moser watches continued to be regarded as synonymous

with work of the highest quality for some considerable

time afterwards. In 1966, the government of what was the

USSR presented one of its high-ranking military offi cers

with an original Moser pocket watch in 18-carat gold,

dating from the period before the expropriation and bear-

ing an engraved dedication for his services to the implan-

tation of communism. This watch is now back in the

company museum.

MINUTE REPEATER WITH

PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND

MOON PHASE, CA 1870

GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & CIE,

IMPERIAL EAGLE IN GOLD ENAMEL


Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,

and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died

out in this branch of the family.

Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich

Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private

investors, founded the Moser Schaffhausen AG watch

company in 2002. Dr. Lange also registered the original

H. Moser & Cie brand again internationally.

The sites occupied by the company

today are located, according to

Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in

Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the

immediate vicinity of the Rhine

Falls. To this day, however, the

extraordinary Moser watches are

also produced in the Swiss Jura.

Moser watches of the new era com-

bine horological passion with au-

thentic tradition. Mechanical move-

THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE,

BUILT AROUND 1900

PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING

IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS

ments of the best quality, developed by the company and

used exclusively in its watches, combine innovation with

maximum customer benefi t. Creative and horological

traditions ensure that the new watches also have a high

degree of brand recognition.

The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary

of Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie

brand has returned to Schaffhausen.

T U R N O F T H E M I L L E N I U M

28

LINE DRAWING OF THE

MONARD MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 343.505

29V I S I O N S

V ISIONS

At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Heinrich

Moser, who is well known in the region above all for his

water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-

hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research

Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser

watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially

interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & Cie

watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,

could nowadays only be found in the antique market.

In the course of his investigations, Dr. Lange came across

Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of Heinrich

Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for himself as

a family historian in numerous publications.

The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Lange

and the internationally active banker Roger Nicholas

Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two men

decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie watch

brand. The brand was registered internationally, and

Moser Schaffhausen AG was launched as a watchmaking

company in a joint venture with other investors. A sub-

sequent merger of horological engineering companies

resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the present

trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today holds

the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board of

Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational respon-

sibility for the business.

ESCAPEMENT MODULE

ON A SEPARATE CARRIER PLATE

31V I S I O N S

Thanks to a particular form of cooperation with the best

specialists in the Swiss watch industry and a team moti-

vated by enthusiasm, the watch company that emerged

within just a few years easily stands comparison with that

of its founding father.

The result of this new departure is a range of fascinating

mechanical watches, which will carry the tradition of

Heinrich Moser and his concept of high quality

consciousness into a new millennium. A new type of

wristwatch has been created: The collection combines

elegance and understatement with patented technical

innovations. Its sophisticated functionality is presented

in a deliberately restrained manner and complements the

harmonious overall impression.

Solid craftsmanship and horological passion have given

rise to watches which fascinate with their unobtrusive

outward appearance and reveal the complexity of their

internal workings to the connoisseur discreetly and only

at a second glance.

Today, more than 180 years after the establishment of

Heinrich Moser’s company, the international approach

adopted from the outset is helping to reacquaint a circle

of prospective customers all over the world with the

signifi cance of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

PROTOTYPE MAKER’S

WORKSTATION

MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE

ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION

M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1

34

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a

kind never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1.

Dis tinguished with the Grand Prix de Genève, the most

prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horological

industry.

This extraordinary watch of the new generation is

equipped with the Moser dual barrel and possesses a min-

imum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.

The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechani-

cal means to the various lengths of the months and the

leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.

Only the easily legible, large date on the dial and the

display of the month by a small hand from the centre of

the dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological

masterpiece he has before him.

The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-

vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end

of the current month to the start of the following month,

without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the

date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date

at all times, without any irritating distractions.

If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done

both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch.

Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in

the process of changing the date. A unique safety mecha-

nism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged

if the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is

adjusting the date backwards via the crown.

The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to

locate the central position of the crown for setting the

date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of

the hands with the crown in its outermost position.

The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement mod-

ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was

used for the fi rst time by Moser and assists the watch-

maker to reduce the length of the service times.

Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of

the escapement wheel and the pallet fork in hardened

solid gold.

A three-part, round designer case in precious metal with

freely formed bracelet lugs, discreetly convex sapphire

glass and a see-through sapphire glass back give the watch

a distinctive exterior.

35

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-004

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DUAL BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS

VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

SECONDS STOP FUNCTION

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIZED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

CROCODILE LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP












SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN WHITE GOLD




WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

37












SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK LACQUERED DIAL

















SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND DESIGNER CASE IN PLATINUM




WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASP

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 341.501

M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

38

PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR

CONICAL TEETH OF THE

WINDING GEAR TRAIN

THE FLASH CALENDAR NEVER

DISPLAYS ANY INVALID DAYS

The term «perpetual calendar» is always applied to

mechanical watches when the date, despite the different

lengths of the months, is always correctly indicated auto-

matically. Including when February has 29 days every four

years.

The Moser Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day hand-

wound movement with a perpetual calendar, which is

adjustable forwards and backwards at any time without

restriction via the winding crown in its central position.

This extraordinary calendar mechanism is integrated

directly in the movement. As a result, it is also not par-

ticularly thick, as would have been the case in a simpler

modular design. The elegance of a well-proportioned

movement with harmonious dimensions is retained in

spite of its high complexity.

This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calendar»,

because it possesses the world’s only date display which

changes directly from the last day of the current month to

the fi rst day of the following month without displaying

invalid days; regardless of whether the month has 30, 31,

28 or 29 days.

39M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

LEAP YEAR STAR

MONTH DISPLAY FROM THE CENTRE

USING THE HOUR INDICES

SIDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE

OF THE PERPETUAL 1 WITH THE BUTTON

FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR

In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calendar

is only recognizable on the dial by the large date display,

which always centres even single-digit numbers in the

window, and by the very restrained design of the lowest

central hand for the display of the month with reference

to the twelve indices for the hours.

The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull

Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set

reliably in the right position.

The display for the leap year cycle of

4 years is visible on the movement side

of the watch through the convex sap-

phire glass back. The indicator star for

the leap year cycle can be adjusted as

required by means of an unobtrusive

pin pusher on the outside of the case.

M O N A R D DAT E

42

MONARD DATE

Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and

a large date display: the Monard Date from Moser.

The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to

locate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.

As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the

months is performed with truly effortless ease, without

inadvertently changing the time.

A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound

is assured by the Moser dual barrel that is connected in

series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated

via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible

through the large sapphire glass back.

As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of the

watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,

which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-

mission and a long service life. This ensures that the

watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-

ning for a long period.

Screwed gold mounts, into which the synthetic ruby

jewel bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of

this extraordinary watch.

The interchangeable escapement module typical of Moser

also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It is

used by Moser for the fi rst time in the world and helps to

reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning

and servicing the watch.

A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the

escapement wheel and pallet fork in hardened solid gold

with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the

pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-

tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function

is more reliable.

A three-part case made of precious metal with a discreetly

convex sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory

movement. Freely formed fl anks on the bracelet lugs give

the watch an individual, refi ned appearance. The sap-

phire glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted

view of the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground

stripes. The seal, already familiar to all collectors and

featured on the historic watches as a guarantee of authen-

ticity, is also visible through the sapphire glass back.

43






POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

LARGE DATE


VIA THE CROWN



SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD


THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD




WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD CLASP







LARGE DATE


VIA THE CROWN



SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD


THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD




WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD CLASP

M O N A R D D A T E

45

DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502

MOVEMENT WITH THE DATE RINGS

LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER







LARGE DATE


VIA THE CROWN



SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD


THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM




WITH SOLID PLATINUM CLASP







LARGE DATE


VIA THE CROWN



SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD







M O N A R D D A T E

46

THE L ARGE DATE FROM MOSER

The Monard Date captivates with

its elegance and with the large date

change displayed at 6 o’clock in

the date window. Like the Moser

Perpetual 1, this is in the form of

two rings lying one on top of the

other. These are the upper ring

with the numbers 1 to 15 and be-

neath it the ring with the numbers

16 to 31. This enables the use of

signifi cantly larger numbers than if 31 positions were to

be present on only a single ring.

However, a further advantage is associated with this spe-

cial design with two rings: Regardless of the size of each

individual digit, it is always centred in the middle of the

window. This also applies to the digits 1 to 9. If the date

were to consist of two individual digits, as in a large date

display, a leading zero or a blank panel would always be

visible for single-digit numbers. This is one reason why

Moser does not favour this solution.

The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by

one day within one second at midnight every day and can

be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending

on the length of the month, regardless of whether the

movement itself is changing at the same time.

The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time

is also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately

designed clutch separates the movement from the adjust-

ment mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing

unforeseen occurs.

DATE ADJUSTMENT

VIA THE CROWN

THE LARGE

MOSER DATE

47

0 1 2

M O N A R D D A T E

Another world-fi rst can be

found exclusively in the

Moser watches of the new

era: the Double Pull Crown

(DPC) mechanism.

DPC denotes the double pull

on the crown required in

this mechanism in order to

move from winding to ad-

justment of the hands.

The intermediate position

for adjustment of the date is relatively diffi cult to «sense»

with the customary detent function in all watches with-

out DPC. As often as not, the crown is pulled out too

far, and the time is then adjusted unintentionally instead

of the date.

The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in

all Moser watches with a date display and ensures that

merely the position for date adjustment is reached by

pulling out the crown once until it stops. Only by then

releasing the crown briefl y, if necessary by giving it a

light tap, and pulling it out once more until it stops is

the crown able to move to the position for adjusting

the hands.

Errors when adjusting the date or hands are now a thing

of the past.

The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even

the smallest details of a mechanical watch.

DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC) MECHANISM

THREE POSITIONS OF

THE WINDING CROWN

DOUBLE PULL CROWN (DPC)

MECHANISM

M O N A R D

50

A watch with just three hands to indicate the time, but

incorporating a movement that is full of convincing inno-

vations and ageless beauty: the Monard from Moser.

The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appear-

ance and the renunciation of all fashionable special

effects. Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of

the spirit of the age, represented here by the case diameter

of 40.8 mm, had not found a place in the watch.

The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in con-

junction with the very clear layout of the dial with a light

sun pattern ground fi nish, ensure excellent legibility of

the time. The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage

of time and the function of the watch. Setting the watch

accurately to the second is possible in conjunction with

the seconds stop function when adjusting the hands.

The Monard is equipped with the Moser dual barrel for a

minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound

and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible

through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.

MONARD

An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use

of an escapement module, a world-fi rst. Its easy inter-

changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjust-

ment when cleaning and servicing the watch.

The patented execution of the escapement wheel and

pallet fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished

working surfaces to minimize friction is also an expres-

sion of the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at

Moser to make something that is already special into

something exceptional.

The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was

developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true

bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively

by Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely effi cient

Moser tooth system used throughout the wheel train

counteract wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.

All movements are individually numbered on the barrel

bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-

hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold

mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an expres-

sion of the watchmaker’s art at its most accomplished.

51








SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD














SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD







M O N A R D

53M O N A R D








SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE


HARDENED SOLID GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH FINE SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM




WITH SOLID PALLADIUM CLASP

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 343.505








SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD







54








SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD







55

To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the

designers of the Monard have incorporated no fewer than

two barrels into the movement. These are arranged in

tandem, so that the power reserve is multiplied up to at

least 7 days compared with only a single barrel.

The actual winding springs are made from an unbreak-

able and corrosion-resistant Nivafl ex material with a self-

lubricating surface.

In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the

power reserve of the watch, a special differential gear is

connected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the hand

for the power reserve display moves downwards continu-

ously when the watch is running normally. When the

watch is wound, however, the hand will move upwards.

This means that the actual status of both winding springs

in the barrels is always indicated.

Noblesse oblige: Both barrels of the Monard from

Moser are supported in screwed gold mounts. The gold

mount itself is fi xed in the

barrel bridge by three bright-

polished steel screws. These

screws are not blued, but

white, as has always been the

case with Moser.

M O N A R D

One of the distinctive features of the Monard is the

seconds hand originating from the centre of the motion

work. This has the advantage that the individual, one-

second steps can be read more accurately thanks to the

great length of the hand.

The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown

with the help of the seconds stop function.

CENTRE SECONDS MOSER DUAL BARREL

CENTRE SECONDS HAND

WHEEL TRAIN

WITH DUAL BARREL

SCREWED

GOLD MOUNT

M AY U

58

A fi ne, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-

ment: the Mayu from Moser.

The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s

fi rst wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-

fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.

A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a me-

chanical watch with a height of only 9.3mm and with a

diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary

tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-

ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.

The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures

that the watch will continue to run for more than three

days even without winding.

The harmonious design of the dial is particularly

enhanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand.

Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower

end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-

sible to the minute ring. This position can only be

achieved with a large movement designed specifi cally for

the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The

Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing

diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to

14 lines in horological terms.

MAYU

Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also

the dial with its hint of a sun pattern ground fi nish, play

with the refl ected sunlight.

The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in

Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions

of the watch in both length and form.

In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-

ule used for the fi rst time by Moser offers high exclusivity.

It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and helps

to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servicing

required by all mechanical watches about every fi ve years.

Another world-fi rst is the execution of the escapement

wheel and pallet fork in hardened solid gold with func-

tionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and the

associated wear.

The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal

with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through

sapphire glass back.

59




MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE






HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL















HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL






M A Y U

61M A Y U

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14











HARDENED SOLID GOLD

LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL


84 TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS 1.28 CT



STINGRAY LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP












HARDENED SOLID GOLD

TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL


84 TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS 1.28 CT



STINGRAY LEATHER STRAP


MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 321.503

63












HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL
















HARDENED SOLID GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM





MOSER MOVEMENT PLATE

BEFORE WHEEL TRAIN ASSEMBLY

M A Y U

64












HARDENED SOLID GOLD







65

The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-

old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-

tails: An 8-day wheel is included between the barrel and

the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under the

barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are arranged

beneath a common bridge, which permits close tolerances

in the interests of high effi ciency.

The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of

the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the

same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical

interface with the escapement module.

By pulling it out into the second position, the winding

crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To

enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch

also has a seconds stop function.

As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned

against the white gold weight compensation screws of the

balance and holds it securely. This causes the watch to

stop, although the balance spring remains under tension.

When the crown is pushed back into the normal position,

the stop spring releases the balance once more and the

watch starts to run immediately.

To show the power reserve available at any time, Mayu

watches with a see-through

back have a display on the

movement side. This indicates

the fully-wound state in

the «UP» position and, after

3 days, it will have covered

about 2/3 of the distance in

the «DOWN» direction.

WHEELS, PINIONS AND LEVERS SECONDS STOP FUNCTION


MAYU WHEEL TRAIN

M A Y U

H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

68

An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann double

hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser

with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.

An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the

most complicated component of the mechanical watch,

gives this movement its particular charisma. The legend-

ary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a

unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational

error. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a

matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by

so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement

from occurring in the fi rst place. Self-compensating and

antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery

of the manufacture of the balance springs – from the

melting of the alloy to the fi nished spring – with appro-

priate technology and precision. This prerequisite is met

within Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-

ment, which naturally does not sacrifi ce the interchange-

ability that is typical of Moser escapements.

Set in a well-proportioned case in tonneau form, this

latest masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has

a power reserve of at least four days when fully wound.

Exclusive and unique to Moser, the execution of the

escapement wheel and the pallet fork in hardened, solid

white gold is also retained as a distinguishing feature

of the Straumann double hairspring escapement.

69


MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607


LARGE-VOLUME BARREL








HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH FINE SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS







LARGE-VOLUME BARREL








HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH FINE SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD





H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

71




LARGE-VOLUME BARREL








HARDENED SOLID GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH FINE SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALLADIUM








LARGE-VOLUME BARREL








HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH FINE SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PLATINUM





MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 324.607

H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

72

Yet again, the watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie have

revolutionized the heart of the mechanical watch: this

time, the escapement. The balance springs, which in com-

bination with the balance are responsible for the basic

rate of the watch, are of course still manufactured from

the self-compensating material, Nivarox.

From a practical point of view, however, when bending

the highly intricate overcoil on the spring, a minutely

small residual error is always present, which prevents the

centre of gravity from remaining at the centre of the

arbor – a fact which naturally irritated the watchmakers

STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING ESCAPEMENT

and inventors at Moser. Accordingly, they searched for a

compensation method with which to equalize this gravi-

tational error at its point of origin, rather than simply

attempting to eliminate the effect of the error, as is the

case with a tourbillon, for example. The result is the dou-

ble hairspring escapement from Moser.

In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as

a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against

one another. As a result, the centres of gravity of the

two springs move outwards and inwards on opposing

symmetrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative

centre of gravity of the two springs thus remains at the

centre of the arbor at all times, and as such has no nega-

tive infl uence on the accuracy of the watch.

STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING® SCREW BALANCE WITH


73H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

The prerequisite to manufacturing such a complicated

escapement system, of course, is the ability to master

the production of the balance springs from melting the

material to the fi nished spring. It is essential to be able to

guarantee that both balance springs possess identical char-

acteristic curves and attachments. H. Moser & Cie, working

jointly with its associate company, Precision Engineering

AG, has developed the Straumann Hairspring® on the

basis of the formula drawn up by the original inventor of

the Nivarox material, Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann.

This has ensured that the material exhibits the necessary

homogeneity and mechanical properties. What is more,

the springs are manufactured so consistently that they are

even able to ensure uniform compensation for any elas-

ticity in the presence of temperatures fl uctuations. In this

way, the centre of gravity does not wander from the centre

even in response to changes in temperature.

This revolutionary escapement was named the Straumann

Double Hairspring escapement in tribute to Prof. Dr. h.c.

Reinhard Straumann, who patented the Nivarox material

and the associated manufacturing technologies in 1931.

ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH


CRUCIBLE WITH

PE 3000 NIVAROX MELT

L I M I T E D C O L L E C TO R S E D I T I O N S

76

THE L IMITED COLLECTORS EDIT IONS FROM MOSER

Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-

cial event, particular techniques or unusual solutions.

This is also true of Moser.

One such example is the Moser Perpetual 1 set with

brilliant-cut diamonds, which was introduced to mark the

international relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand in

2005, and which, with its specially formed bezel, ideally

lends itself for mounting with selected diamonds.

Or the Monard and Mayu models with genuine «grand

feu» enamel dials. This is an enamelling skill that

appeared almost to have died out, and Moser was deter-

mined to have a limited edition with this type of dial. The

Monard with its deep black enamel and the Mayu in gleam-

ing white enamel were released without even awaiting a

special event. The watchmakers at Moser simply wished

to have them before this technique of coating metal with

vitreous enamel fi red at a very high temperature was no

longer mastered perfectly by any of the craftsmen.

The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a

different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to

refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and

on the other hand Moser’s two master engravers wished

to demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the

exquisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For

once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was

replaced by a solid gold case back, which depicts the two-

headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut

diamonds. Naturally the movement beneath it is still a

feast for the eyes. In order to set eyes on it, however, it

is necessary to look over the shoulders of a watchmaker

during a service.

The yellow gold Mayu with a champagne-coloured

lacquered dial is also a special edition. Here the authen-

tic, subsidiary pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu

and Perpetual models is brought to the fore. It is posi-

tioned next to the minute ring, as in the historic examples

of the pocket watches. This is indeed a rarity, because it

also calls for a specially designed movement without the

customary movement retaining ring. As this is feature

common to all Moser watches of the new era, however, it

was deemed worthy of an edition with an extraordinary

choice of colour.

77L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

MOSER PERPETUAL 1


LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PCS.











SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD



SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS





78

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02












HARDENED SOLID GOLD

WHITE ENAMELLED DIAL






MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11








SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS





HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK ENAMELLED DIAL






79

MAYU



MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503










HARDENED SOLID GOLD

CHAMPAGNE-COLOURED LACQUERED DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD




WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD CLASP

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04


MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504










HARDENED SOLID GOLD



SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS


HAND-ENGRAVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH

25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS



L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

82


The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves

from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-

tomer benefi t. In the watches of the new era, this fi nds

expression in one component in particular: the escape-

ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was

developed with a view to reducing the time taken for

adjustment when cleaning and servicing the watch about

every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the

complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the move-

ment and installs an already cleaned and adjusted

module. Job done.

At the same time, the escapement module itself is

optimized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no

longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjust-

ment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is

performed via the cross-slotted

steel screws around the periph-

ery of the balance. To prevent

these from moving of their

own accord due to vibrations, a

slot has been made through the

screw thread. As a result, the

screw is constantly under spring pressure and is secured

in this way. Just how diffi cult this is to manufacture will

be appreciated when the diameter of the screw holes is

taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm.

The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with

weight compensation screws made of white gold and a

driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic

work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-

als used in the balance and the balance spring are matched

to one another in such a way that fl uctuations in

temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy

of the watch.

Since the balance has a relatively high mass, it is protected

from shocks. The balance staff has high-precision,

roller-burnished conical pivots and is carried in a bearing

with the capacity to yield in the presence of shocks and

thus prevents fracture of the pivots, which are only

0.08 mm thick.

SPRING SLOT FOR

THE ADJUSTING SCREW

BALANCE WITH PLATE, ELLIPSE AND STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

83T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

A further important consideration for the accuracy is the

facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunc-

tion with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too,

the people at Moser have come up with something new:

the dragon lever.

This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by

means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very

precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet fork

is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass, any

vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well damped.

The eccentrics are only accessible from below via a slot, so

they are no longer capable of adjustment once the escape-

ment module has been installed in the movement.

Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise

to fi nd that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet

terminal curve. This curve is the only one to provide

reliable assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral

spring will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creat-

ing unequal oscillation periods in different positions.

The escapement wheel and pallet fork are manufactured

by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers

the particular advantage that the vertical working

surfaces are generally executed with a glass-smooth fi nish.

The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets and

the club teeth of the escape wheel is

reduced to a minimum in this way.

Moser repeatedly used gold wheels

in its movements in the past.

THE DRAGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TRAVEL

GOLD PALLET WHEEL

WITH STEEL PINION

85

THE STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING®

T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in con-

junction with the balance, is solely responsible for the

precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser

development engineers have accordingly devoted a high

degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associate

company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on the

know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original formula

and technology of the legendary Nivarox material have

been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann

– the grandfather of our present Board member, Dr. h.c.

Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed a fracture-

resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free and antimag-

netic alloy consisting of seven elements, and applied for a

patent for this invention. The patent describes the fi rst

con crete formulation, which exhibits the desired character-

istics and also fi nds an application in watches as a balance

spring material. It is still in use today, in slightly modifi ed

form, in practically all high-quality, volume-produced

movements with a mechanical oscillating system. For

many years, production of this material was supervised by

Straumann in the interests of quality assurance.

These activities were taken over a few years ago by

Precision Engineering AG, which has now in-

stalled its own, complete production line, from

melting of the alloy to the fi nished escapement

system, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie.

All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are

equipped exclusively with the Straumann Hair-

spring®. In tribute to their inven-

tor, the brand names Straumann

Spirale®, Spiral Straumann® and

Straumann Hairspring® now ben-

efi t from international protection.

The precise combination of all the

highest-grade materials in the

smelting charge and the processing of the raw ingot with

a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80 kg into a

wire with a diameter of only 0.075 mm – thinner than a

human hair – demand technological expertise acquired

over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the

fi nal homogeneity of the wire and the ultra-precise rolling

of the round wire into fl at strip can provide the condi-

tions necessary for balance springs that are suffi ciently

accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and

antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring®

springs is thus fl at-rolled to an astounding accuracy of

0.1 thousandth of a millimetre.

THE PATENTS

FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL

OF REINHARD STRAUMANN

HAMMERING THE GLOWING

NIVAROX MATERIAL

SAWING THE INGOT

FLAT-ROLLING

TO AN ACCURACY

OF 0,1�m

87

DIAL SIDE OF CAL. HMC 343.505

CRAFTSMANSHIP IN ITS FINEST FORM

BEVELLED EDGES AND

GOLD ENGRAVINGS

THE MOSER SEAL

THE CR AFTSMAN’S ART

The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through

technically accomplished solutions. Individual features of

the component parts are worked out with loving attention

to detail. One example of this is the sun pattern ground

fi nish on the plates of all Moser movements that is only

visible to the watchmaker. This is subsequently revealed

when the watch is completely dismantled into its indi-

vidual parts on the watchmaker’s workbench.

A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually

feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which

the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the

outside.

Bevelled and polished edges are visible in this way, and

the jewels sparkle in the light.

The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical

of Moser and the fi ne gold engraving are as obvious as the

tireless oscillations of the screw balance.

Another entirely traditional Moser feature is the arrange-

ment of the third wheel and the fourth wheel together

beneath the same train-wheel bridge, which exhibits the

typical convex form around the jewel bearings.

Also present on the train-wheel

bridge is the Moser seal in gold,

which guarantees authenticity both

in the historic watches and in the

watches of the new era.

T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

T E A M S P I R I T A N D S P E C I A L I S T S

91S P E C I A L I S T S

TEAM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS

Heinrich Moser’s visionary views are recorded in many

of his letters. They also contain horological principles

which remain valid to this day: If you want to build the

best watches, you must go to the best suppliers for the

individual components. Only these specialist, whose

know ledge has been passed down through the genera-

tions, are actually in a position to transform their crafts-

manship into real watch parts. Only by working with

them, in their environment, with their networks and their

particular strengths, are such peak performances still

achievable.

That is certainly one of the reasons why Heinrich Moser’s

watchmaking business was already established in Le Locle

in 1828, and why present-day Moser watches are once

again being made in the Swiss Jura. By far the greatest

proportion of the individual component parts are still

produced in enterprises in this region of Switzerland even

today.

Nevertheless, the merger of the Moser Group in 2007 also

includes MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group. The

most modern machines and technologies, but also the

premises for the Group as a whole, are gathered together

in this company. The best horological know-how, along

with specialists in the manufacture of the fi nest and most

accurate precision components, can be found here. MSG

AG develops technologies, tools, jigs and fi xtures and

production processes at the leading edge of technology.

This expertise and these processes are then passed on to

the traditional supplier for incorporation into its series

production.

It is only in this way and in close cooperation with these

specialists that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to

accomplish innovations and world-fi rsts for the benefi t of

its customers all around the globe.

OPTICAL INSPECTION

WITH A PROJECTOR

TRAIN-WHEEL BRIDGE

92

The designers and watchmakers discuss their ideas with

the suppliers at a very early stage, so that their knowledge

and possibilities can already be taken into account at the

outline stage. This ensures that the parts produced are

truly optimal in terms of quality and surface fi nish, but

also in terms of a beauty all of their own.


H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory.

Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and

technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that

the Moser movements can be described justifi ably as pure

manufactory movements. The watches themselves also

merit manufactory status, because they are assembled

by hand in one of the best workshops in the Swiss Jura.

In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the

individual parts of the watches are produced by machine

in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be

made in the quality of the movements. This would not

be compatible with the present-day opportunities, and

not at all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.


The fi nishing process again makes use of traditional

craft methods. No machine can produce a truly beauti-

fully polished chamfered edge on the bridges and plates.

Hand work is just as necessary here as it is for the polished

fi nish and the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun

pattern ground fi nish under the barrel. The typical Moser

ground stripes on the plates are also pure hand work. The

Swiss watchmaker’s art in its fi nest form in the watches

and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of this

unremitting quest for perfection.

PE 3000 NIVAROX CT INGOT

– THE BASIC MATERIAL FOR

STRAUMANN BALANCE SPRINGS

96

1730 Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After

an apprenticeship as a watchmaker, he assumes the honorary position of town

watchmaker. He later becomes a magistrate in the local court.

1760 Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds

his father in the position of town watchmaker, and he is a member of the

Cantonal Council and Town Commissioner.

1805 Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watch-

maker‘s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824.

1824 Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle in the master watchmakers’

workshops in the town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and

he starts a small business to supply spare parts. After about eighteen months,

Moser receives offers of work from Italy and Paris.

1826 Moser works on his own account for the fi rst time by building clocks into cases

and pieces of furniture.

1827 The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg. After an adventur-

ous journey, he starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops.

1828 Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. His watches

are characterized by their high quality. Not a single watch is allowed to pass over

the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his

representatives. The business is very successful.

1829 In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch

factory in Le Locle to produce watches exclusively for his businesses.

1848 Moser returns to Schaffhausen as a prosperous merchant and watch manufac-

turer. He sees his new challenge as the transformation of the quiet town of

Schaffhausen into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time,

he builds the magnifi cent Charlottenfels country manor house for his family.

1851 Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the

water to drive a turbine.

TIMELINE

97

1853 In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schwei-

zerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaff hausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen) and

Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company

Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaffhausen –Winterthur railway line.

He opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen.

1860 Moser becomes a customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over time, he sources up to

64 different calibres, including 24 complications.

1863 Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to

supply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power

transmission system. This hydroelectric power station marks the start of the

industrial age in Schaffhausen.

1868 Moser supports Ariosto Jones in the foundation of the International Watch

Company (IWC), by providing premises and energy to drive the machines.

1874 Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser,

as the heiress of all his business interests.

1877 Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation as well as the watch factory

in Le Locle to the respective general managers. The contracts of sale stipulate that

all successor companies must continue to operate in perpetuity under the

company names «H. Moser & Cie» or «Heinrich Moser & Co.».

1917 The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the watch market in the

country that is dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Direc-

tors of the Moser company return to Switzerland totally expropriated in

early 1918. The business in Le Locle attempts to compensate for the loss of the

Russian markets through increased exports to other countries.

1920 The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from

the remains of the Moser watch businesses.

1953 Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket

watches produced decreases steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name

«Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877 agreements.

T I M E L I N E

98

1973 H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement

watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with

precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread in the Swiss watch

industry also affects the business in Le Locle.

1979 The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and

trades as «Hy Moser & Cie».

2002 The original brand of the founder, H. Moser & Cie, is once more registered inter-

nationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is

launched jointly with representatives of Heinrich Moser’s family as a successor

company. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is

today Honorary Chairman of the Board of Directors.

2005 To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company

Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the H. Moser & Cie brand, is once again launch-

ing a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding father on

the international watch arena.

2006 H. Moser & Cie introduces its 4 watch ranges, Moser-Perpetual 1, Monard Date,

Monard and Mayu, to a broad public for the fi rst time at «BaselWorld 2006».

2006 The collaboration with the internationally renowned Wirz Werbung AG Zürich

is also announced at «BaselWorld 2006», and the new communications platform

is presented.

2006 Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of

the professional jury of the special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion:

«The classic case of the Perpetual 1/Flash Calendar from Moser conceals a

highly innovative mechanical movement».

2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In Novem-

ber 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss

horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes fi rst place in the complicated

watches category.

99

2007 «BaselWorld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the

Straumann Hairspring®, developed jointly over several years with its

associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an international

specialist audience.

2007 The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the

revolutionary double hairspring escapement from Moser, is presented at

«BaselWorld 2007».

2007 Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white

lustre, also embraces the realm of watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Pal-

ladium model is presented to the public.

2007 Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaffhausen AG. All the associate

companies are now united under a single roof. Moser Schaffhausen AG,

Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group together

guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial

growth of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

2008 The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary.

2008 The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and

elegant stingray leather straps are launched.

2008 The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann double hairspring

escapement with escapement wheel and pallet fork in hardened white gold.

An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial.

T I M E L I N E

COPYRIGHT 2010 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

ALL PRODUCT DESIGNS AS WELL AS THE TRADEMARKS, REGISTERED OR NOT, PRESENTED IN THIS CATALOGUE, ARE PROTECTED AND

REMAIN THE EXCLUSIVE PROPERTY OF MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG. FOR BRANDS PRESENTED IN THIS CATALOGUE WHICH DO NOT BELONG

TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERTY OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAILABILITY OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

DR. JÜRGEN R. LANGE

MANFRED DUBACH, ERNST MÜLLER, KATHARINA LOCHS, MARCEL STUDER,

SARAH LANGE, SAMMLUNG HOMBERGER, CARL J. KOCH, STADTARCHIV SCHAFFHAUSEN

MANFRED DUBACH & KATHARINA LOCHS

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

STAMM+CO. AG, SCHLEITHEIM

BUCHBINDEREI GROLLIMUND AG, REINACH

MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

MEMBER OF MOSER GROUP AG

RUNDBUCKSTRASSE 10, CH-8212 NEUHAUSEN AM RHEINFALL, SWITZERLAND

T +41 52 674 00 50, WWW.H-MOSER.COM

Project Manager

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