Dual Mode Hydrogen Generator SuperKit9

Please read this manual thoroughly and carefully before beginning. It contains useful tips and safety information, especially related to chemical selection, necessary for the extended use of this device.

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Last Manual Update: May 12, 2012 www.greensource.ca

Pre-Installation Check List Pre-plan your installation and gather any necessary tools before you start the actual work. NOTE: Green Source also sells a budget version of this kit called a Basic generator. It operates the same way as SuperKit9 but does not come with the components of the SuperKit. However, a fuse and a flashback arrestor are important and are recommended. This kit should operate with either a 10 amp or 15 amp fuse. 1. Tools and equipment that may be helpful: voltmeter, electrical tape, wire crimping tool, drill & drill bits, selection of screws and screw drivers and wire cutters (side cutters). 2. Determine where you will position the generator. This should be away from engine heat as much as possible to allow for coolest operation. Positioning near the front of the engine compartment provides the maximum air flow and cooling. Keep wiring and hoses away from moving parts and high heat sources such as exhaust manifolds. Other spots include: near the firewall and brake booster. 3. Determine how you will secure it in place: bungee cords or large tie wraps are good options. 4. Determine where to inject the HHO into your car’s air stream. Usually the air intake OR air filter housing are good choices. Find a 12 volt electrical source, preferably, an ignition switched 12 volt electrical point to power the generator. 5. Determine where you would like to position the illuminated toggle switch.

Quick Install Overview

1 Installing the Generator Generator secured near front for best air circulation, hoses and wires neatly and safely routed and secured. HHO hose and flashback arrestor are mounted close to the engine in the air intake.

2 Installing the Flashback Arrestor A Flash Back/Check Valve is always recommended. It could prevent your application from sending a flame back into the rector, in the unlikely event that it sparked. Test the valve for flow direction before installing it by blowing through it. It will block air/gas flow in the reverse direction. Flow is ‘towards’ the wider half of the body.

See a typical flashback arrestor installed at left.

3 Connecting Generator to Air Intake See a typical HHO hose installation into the air stream through a tight, 3/8 hole. The hole should be sealed with silicone. Most modern vehicles have well sealed air intake systems. You need to drill a ½ inch hole into the air intake system, usually after the air filter, but BEFORE any turbo charger you may have. Then feed the hydrogen hose into it, secure the hose well with tie wraps and seal the hole you made with silicone. Make sure the generator is well secured.

In a carbureted vehicle the hose can then be routed to the air intake as on a fuel injected vehicle, or as shown at left, can be patched into the PCV hose with a “tee” connector. This is for “Positive Crankcase Ventilation” and will draw the hydrogen directly inside the carburetor, where it cannot escape.

4 Wiring Options and Considerations Green Source HHO generators operate at 10-15 amps, other generators require up to 30 amps. Care must be taken in wiring not to overload existing circuits or blow fuses while driving. Direct Connection to Battery The simplest method is to connect directly to the battery through a toggle switch. Advantage: No existing circuits are disturbed and the battery can source all the power required for HHO. Disadvantage: It is only a matter of time until you forget to turn off the HHO switch when you turn off your engine. This will allow HHO to keep producing and accumulating in the air intake of your vehicle, resulting in an unsafe situation. This configuration is great for set up and testing but we do not recommended for day to day use.

CCPWM Connection Use our Constant Current Pulse Width Modulator (CCPWM) and take advantage of the simple wiring and the best configuration possible. Advantages: No existing circuits are disturbed and the battery can source all the power required for HHO.

The PWM shuts off the HHO when the vehicle is not running. Only an extremely small current is required to control the PWM (1/100 amp), so it can be connected into any ignition switched circuit. Disadvantage: Higher initial cost, but returned as increased efficiency gains.

Finding an Ignition Switched Source Connection To connect to the fuse box, it is best to use an electrical “fuse tap” connection as shown at right. With a voltmeter or mechanics test light, find the fuses (in the fuse box) that have 12V power ONLY when the ignition key is in the ON position. Select the fuse with the highest amperage, probably a rear window defogger, window motor etc. Remove the fuse

With the volt meter, find which side of the fuse holder is “hot”. With the fuse removed, only one side of the fuse holder will provide power. That is the “hot” power side and where you connect the power wire and optional fuse tap shown. Advantage: Extremely inexpensive and safe as you cannot forget to switch off your HHO. Disadvantage: Must be connected correctly or you can overload a circuit.

Automotive Relay Connection If you do not have or require a PWM, then an automotive relay can be an inexpensive way to simplify your wiring. Relays typically cost $3-5 USD at any automotive part store and will have numbered pins on the bottom as shown below.

Note: The toggle switch is optional in this case and +12VDC ignition could connect directly to pin 86

Advantage: Inexpensive and safe as you cannot forget to switch off your HHO. Eliminates the chance to overload a circuit. Disadvantage: None, assuming you do not require a CCPWM.

The loop shown a water trap and will help prevent a spark coming back up the hose to the generator. It will also help catch any spills in case you overfill, go over a bump etc. The loop needs to be BELOW both the level of the generator lid and the input of the engine so the water and/or electrolyte cannot flow and make its way to the engine’s air intake. A couple of inches of water in the loop is enough.

Safety 1. Most important is eye protection. Please make sure you are well protected. 2. The mixture you will be using can be near the high end of the pH scale - highly alkaline. It will react with your skin and potentially cause a skin irritation. We strongly recommend using rubber gloves. 3. Don’t use this device anywhere you can’t tolerate a spill! Pets, children and guests create unpredictable circumstances. 4. This unit produces hydrogen and oxygen in stoichiometric (perfect) proportions. It has been referred to as ‘boom’ gas for a reason. If you are collecting the gas, for example in a balloon, take care that it doesn’t ignite on you. It sounds like a canon! 5. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN 6. The use of a flash back arrester is recommended. Carbureted vehicles are more likely to backfire than modern fuel injected types. The “water loop” demonstrated in this manual is useful, but do NOT attempt to use it if you are connecting to a vacuum line. Your engine will suck the water right in from the hose. In fact, your generator is NOT RECOMMENDED to use under heavy vacuum conditions. It is preferred to connect to the air intake of your vehicle. Many users simply inject into the air filter compartment. Electrolysis Mode VS Chemical Mode Electrolysis Mode uses electricity from your car to split the water molecule into separate hydrogen and oxygen gases. You will use water and electrolyte mixture. Electrolysis offers simple, convenient, ease of use. Chemical Mode does NOT require electricity from your car and the electrode pack gets REMOVED from your generator. Chemical mode uses a strong chemical NaOH, water and aluminum, which are all placed

inside the generator. It produces very high hydrogen output and the oxygen produced forms an oxide on the aluminum resulting in only pure H2 released. This mode will provide greatest gains for automotive applications due to high flow rate and O2 free output. It does not load the alternator as does the electrolysis mode resulting in even higher efficiency. Electrolysis Set Up and Use 1. Determine what electrolyte is best suited to you. Add 2 tablespoon of baking soda to 1 litre of distilled water and mix thoroughly in a large plastic container. You may add the 3rd tablespoon once you are sure you are not overheating after 1 hour of use. If using NaOH/KOH, add 1 teaspoon. Let the mixture cool for 10 minutes before use. Any mixing container you use should be considered non fit for food and beverages afterwards. It IS acceptable to mix chemicals right inside the generator. 2. Pour in 1 litre of mixed water solution created in the previous step. 3. Attach the electrode pack to the electrical connections inside of the rubber lid. It is VERY important to make sure the nuts are tight and do not come loose during operation. This could create a dangerous spark! The electrical connector always goes between the two nuts on both terminals. 4. Close the lid. Secure the generator in place in the chosen location with large tie wraps or a stretchable cord. 5. Attach the power wires, toggle switch and fuse and connect to a switched electrical source. The fuse should be as close to the power source as possible. This makes it safe to put the toggle switch inside the passenger compartment for convenience. 6. Drill a 3/8 inch hole, just large enough for the HHO tubing in the air intake, close to the engine. This can be in the air filter housing or plastic hose close to your engine. Insert the tubing into the hole, approximately 3 cm (1 inch) and secure with a tie wrap so it cannot move. Seal the hole with silicone to prevent leaks. Silicone should sit over night to dry before starting the engine. 7. Don’t force any hose or other connecting device over the output port. The HHO barbed fitting on the lid fits a ¼ inch vinyl hose quite easily without the need for additional clamping. The HHO port is firmly secured with epoxy but it could be broken loose if excessive force is used. 8. Tie wrap or tape all hoses and wires such that they cannot move and touch moving/hot engine components. 9. If you use the generator in a truck, heavy equipment or have driving habits such that the electrode pack may bang around inside the generator, consider using a wide rubber band as a bumper. Position the rubber band around the bottom of the electrode pack, below the screw, so that the rubber acts as a protective barrier between the metal plates and glass. 10. REFILLS. Approximately every 400 miles you will need to add more water. Chemicals last much longer and you only top up with distilled water. However, the chemicals also slowly get consumed and you will need to add a little chemical with each top up. Mix before adding to generator Chemical Mode (Pure H2) Operation Set Up and Use Remove the electrode pack from the generator. Do this by removing only the FIRST nut from each electrical terminal, inside the lid. The second nuts always stay in place. The production quantity of hydrogen can vary greatly: the stronger the concentration of NaOH, the faster the reaction. As for aluminum, surface area is the key. A big cube of aluminum has lots of mass but little

surface area and will generate hydrogen very slowly and will not react completely. Small clean pieces react the fast, but will produce for shorter durations. You have to find the balance between long run times and good flow rates. TIP Try lots of aluminum foil at first. Later, make friends with someone at a machine shop and gather their aluminum shavings from the drill press or scrap metal bin. Use a plastic mesh onion bag or similar to contain the aluminum. Mix NaOH and water solution first, then add the aluminum. Put the water in the jar FIRST, then very slowly add the NaOH! It may get hot at first, so wait a few minutes between scoops. A concentration of 18% by weight is ideal FOR FASTEST REACTIONS (225g NaOH per liter water) Note: Use about 75g-100g/Litre for longer run times. Be careful not to overfill as the aluminum will displace some of the solution, creating a nasty mess. You must keep the solution level 2 inches below the top of the jar. To Shut Off Chemical Mode Remove the aluminum from the generator and NaOH/water mixture. It is messy and most customers use chemical mode for testing and trips where starting and stopping are not such a nuisance. No generator (HHO OR Pure H2) should be operated while the vehicle in not running. Dangerous gases could collect up inside the engine! Electrical Mode (Normal) Operation Use Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda), NOT Sodium Hydroxide for Electrolysis Unless you are an advanced user and are using a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM), you should only use baking soda as your electrolyte. Highly efficient electrolytes such as Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) are very conductive and allow high amounts of current. This could boil the water, blow fuses or burn your wires if you do not control it with PWM.

How To Choose Your Electrolyte 1. Start with Baking Soda. It is simple, safe, easy and cheap. If you can’t get enough HHO flow (5

amps or MORE) then: 2. Get some Potassium Carbonate. It is much more efficient, makes more HHO and is still SAFE to

use 3. If you need high output, use NaOH or KOH. You will need a PWM to control you current, HHO

flow and heat when using these highly efficient chemicals. You will blow fuses or boil over the water if not using PWM. Over driving the generator by use of too much chemicals can be dangerous.

Each of these chemical is approximately 2 grams/ml in density, so a tablespoon = 30 grams. Use a mixture as follows:

Baking Soda: 2 tablespoons (to start) per litre of water (3 Maximum) OR NaOH: ¾ tablespoons (to start) per litre (1.5 maximum) OR KOH: ½ tablespoons (to start) per litre (1.0 maximum) Note, these are guidelines and you should start with less (half the above stated amounts) until you are familiar with the process. Your set up and success are determined by the amount of HHO you are producing. This is directly proportional to the amount of current passing through your generator. You should use a current meter to know if you have the correct amount of HHO. A good starting point is 6 -8 amps

Helpful NaHCO3 (aka Sodium Bicorbonate, Baking Soda) Information For generators with higher output electrode configurations you will want to use more baking soda to achieve desired results. This is because your higher efficiency electrode depends in part on your electrolyte being highly conductive. 1 mL = 1 cm 3 1 US teaspoon (tsp) = 4.93 mL 1 US tablespoon (tbsp) = 14.79 ml NaHCO3 Density = 2.16g/mL so a TBSP is about 30g A sodium bicarbonate and water solution will saturate at approximately 8 g/100 mL or 80g/ Liter. Adding more bicarbonate than this will not increase conductivity or cause harm to the generator. Therefore, for 1L of water use UP TO 3 tbsp for a saturated solution.

Maintaining Proper Electrolyte Temperature and Current 5-6 amps to start at room temperature and will increase to about 9 amps when fully warmed up. If you don’t have a current meter, check the generator with your hand at 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes of operation. It should get very warm, but not hot. At 60 Celsius it becomes difficult to touch. Conveniently, this is your recommended maximum operating temperature since chemicals can start to break down beyond this point. If you don’t overheat the generator, you only need to add distilled water at fill up time, which is approximately every 500 miles. You chemicals will last for many refills and cleaning will be MUCH easier. If you make too little HHO, you will not achieve full benefit. Too much and you will boil the water and need to replace the chemicals. The target is 0.25 to 0.5 liters/minute per liter of engine size. In a vehicle you should expect to see 4-7 amps typically running to the generator when you start it. NOTE: This can increase 50% once hot, so it is important to monitor this until you get used to using it. The quantities listed in this section are guidelines only and will vary somewhat depending on the installation, airflow and chemical mixtures used.

The maximum output will depend on how much convection (air flow) you have around the generator to keep it cool.

Electrode Maintenance While distilled water is best, rain or tap water is OK too. There will be a little more cleaning to do, that’s all. Do NOT use water with a heavy mineral content as the calcium or lime will corrode and form deposits on the electrode pack. This will slowly form a short circuit, draw more current and have wasted heat inside the generator to contend with. Heat is your enemy! The unfortunate problem with 12 volt electrolysis is that the majority of electrical energy used goes into heat production, not electrolysis. While more current makes more hydrogen, we always need to be mindful of the heat not to have a mishap. This high efficiency electrode pack was designed to double the hydrogen output for any given current consumption and lower wasted heat dissipation!

Electrode Life If you take the time to clean and prepare the electrode in your HHO generator PRIOR to usage, it will last significantly longer. This process is called Passivation

1. Mix 1 litre of water with lemon juice, nitric or citric acid and pour into your generator. Rinse and soak them over night, shaking 3-4 times during the process. Heated solutions (60C) work better.

2. Further electrode life is attained by “Activation”. In a well ventilated environment, run the pack for 24 hours at 2 amps. This creates an oxide layer that protects the plates. Alternatively, simply turn down the flow rate to 2 amps using a weak NaOH solution OR by using PWM. Drive for at least 12 hours before increasing the flow rate.

This process goes against our impatience to get started and see economy gains, but is worth it. You can contact Green Source for more information or do a simple Google search.

Cleaning the Generator If you do not overheat your generator, cleanings should be infrequent, just once or twice per year. Baking soda has carbon; therefore it operates less cleanly than does KOH/NaOH. A basic cleaning can be done by half filling the empty generator with vinegar and connecting the power for about 10 minutes. A thorough cleaning can be achieved by mixing 4 heaping tablespoons of Mortons Iodized table salt and 1 heaping tablespoon of Citric Acid with 1 litre of Hot Tap Water. Carefully pour into your generator then start and run it for 5 minutes. Solution will turn almost black. Empty cleaning solution and you will have to fill and empty the generator with cool tap water several times, or until there are no particles of carbon or oxide coming out. You can always disassemble the pack at any time for a light sanding or scrubbing.

Dealing With Heat Your generator utilizes electrolysis. While this system has been made as efficient as possible, it still generates heat. That heat needs to dissipate somewhere. The more HHO it generates, the more heat will be created. We suggest starting with a 10 amp fuse. If you run the generator too hard (high current& high output) and do not add a fuse, you could melt the wires. The basic rules to minimize heat build up are:

• Do NOT operate above the recommended output flow rate (and current) levels of 5 to 10 amps • Install in a well ventilated location, as far away as possible from hot surfaces • If you demand high output, use a PWM.

Remember that all resistive elements, especially crimp connectors, will get warm, even hot once you get above 10 amps. Ensure all connections are clean and secure.

Dealing With Cold. Winter Operation The generator contains water, which if left untreated will freeze in cold temperature, potentially causing damage to your unit. There are two solutions: 1. Use a mixture of 50-50 water and isopropyl alcohol. It will yield a -30C (-25F) freezing point. Mix your water/alcohol per the following table to achieve your desired freezing point: Freezing Point of Isopropanol (2-Propanol) based Water Solutions Freezing Point Isopropanol Concentration (% by volume)

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Temperature oF 32 25 20 5 0 -5 -10 -20 -35 -70 -130 oC 0 -4 -7 -15 -18 -21 -23 -29 -37 -57 -90

Then add your normal amount of NaOH/KOH to achieve the necessary amps/HHO flow. KOH/NaOH is recommended on larger engines (>3.0 Litres) during winter months. If using KOH or NaOH, very low freezing points can be achieved by increasing the concentration of chemicals. The results are similar for both chemicals. 2. Alternatively, use a strong solution of KOH/NaOH as follows: Simply put, each rounded tablespoon (40g) of KOH will lower the freezing point of one (1) litre of water by 3.7C. (6.7F) It is somewhat more complicated, so here are some real data points to use. Dissolve in a litre of water:

1 TBSP KOH = 30g = -2.8C 2 TBSP KOH = 60g = -5.6C 3 TBSP KOH = 90g = -8.3C 4 TBSP KOH = 120g = -11.1C 5 TBSP KOH = 150g = -13.9C 6 TBSP KOH = 180g = -16.7C 7 TBSP KOH = 210g = -19.4C 8 TBSP KOH = 240g = -22.4C If you use BOTH isopropyl alcohol AND KOH/NaOH, the freezing point reduction is CUMULATIVE. Ie. A 30% isopropyl solution yields -15C. Adding 3 TBSP will lower the freezing point another 8.3C as per the chart to a final value of -23.3C. IMPORTANT NOTE: The previous chart lists KOH concentrations that are highly conductive and will result in heavy current and excessive HHO generation and heat build up. Use a PWM to avoid these problems and get best use of your system.

Electrolytes Overview HHO generation requires the electrolysis of water, H20. Electrolysis is dependant on current flow, which in turn is dependant upon the conductivity of the water. Since water is a non conductor, you need to add electrolytes (chemicals) to the water to increase current flow to a usable rate. In order of increasing strength (which also means increased efficiency and personal hazard), they are:

Baking Soda Sodium Bicarbonate, NaHCO3

This is the first choice if you are starting out or do not need the highest possible output. It is the safest, cheapest, easiest, most available solution that requires no additional equipment to be added to your generator. Higher efficiency electrolytes require a pulse width modulator to be added to control the HHO flow and prevent excessive heat generation. If overheated (>70C) it can off-gas CO2 and dissipate a brown. You will eventually need to replace the water and electrolyte when this happens.

Potassium Carbonate K2CO3

Non-toxic, highly effective and easy to source. Potassium carbonate (K2CO3) is a white salt, soluble in water (insoluble in alcohol). Potassium carbonate is used in the production of soap and glass and is probably the best overall choice for electrolytes, considering safety, effectiveness and availability. Usually a specialty order item, see eBay or other online chemical sources.

Sodium Hydroxide NaOH

Also called “lye”, it is a very efficient electrolyte, highly conductive and CAUSTIC. It is used mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. Pure sodium hydroxide is a white solid; available in pellets, flakes, granules and as a 50% saturated solution. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat. Find this in agriculture stores or in grocery stores labeled “Red Devil” drain cleaner

Potassium Hydroxide KOH

The most efficient of the commonly used electrolytes, some 40% better than NaOH. KOH is considered a dangerous good and subject to shipping regulations in most countries. Available on eBay and online chemical distribution centers KOH is an inorganic compound. Along with sodium hydroxide, this colorless solid is a prototypical "strong base".

While baking soda and potassium carbonate are very safe, you must use extra caution if using highly efficient electrolytes (Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)).

Dealing With Electronics

Simple carbureted engines and most diesels vehicles do NOT have O2 sensors that direct the vehicle computer (ECU). That means the installation is most simple and you just plug it in and enjoy the savings.

On newer, computerized vehicles, it is possible for the ECU to detect the more efficient combustion created by HHO. A common result is for the computer to ‘react’ to this leaner fuel-air ratio by adding more fuel, negating your efficiency gains. In fact, the computer can over-react and actually DECREASE your mileage until the sensor manipulation is complete.

Most modern, fuel injected cars (assuming gasoline powered) will achieve higher efficiency gains if you deal with the O2 sensors after HHO installation. This extra step is generally considered optional and most users test with HHO before doing this.

EFIE - Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer

The purpose of the EFIE is to make the needed adjustments to the oxygen sensor's signal so the computer does not interfere with the operation of HHO.

Green Source EFIE Specifications Dual, Narrow or Wide Band Digital EFIE Comes in a splash proof, mountable enclosure. Price: $65

Why Do I Want Digital?

Most EFIEs on the market are analog. They simply add a voltage on top of the O2 sensor to trick the computer. The problem is that you can quickly get “Out of Bounds” with the adjusted voltage and trigger your “Service Engine Soon” light. Then your computer will ignore this “illegal” sensor voltage, thinking your O2 sensor is malfunctioning, goes into safe mode and consumes even more gasoline. Our digital EFIE is a TRUE DIGITAL device telling the computer only to add more fuel or less fuel and it will not trigger your service engine light.

What Sensors Do I Treat?

Most of the gains are going to come from treating O2 sensors BEFORE the catalytic converter. Use our SuperTuner to treat additional sensors for even greater gains. See www.greensource.ca for more information. Hydrogen Supplementation System Debug Checklist Hydrogen supplementation will improve combustion efficiency - this is a scientific fact. When introduced into the engine along with the petroleum based fuel, it increases the flame speed. This allows more of the petrol to burn during the power stroke. After the combustion efficiency has improved, the engine control unit (ECU) reads the reduced quantity of unburned hydrocarbons and increased oxygen content, and often will add fuel to compensate. This can ruin your mileage gains. Steps to have a successful HHO installation: - get HHO into the engine; - adjust the sensor inputs as necessary so the ECU is not blocking the gains. If these two things can be achieved, there will always be improved fuel economy and decreased emissions. This technology works. And because it does, all vehicles can be solved. If you are having a hard time getting the results, you just need to go through these items and find the reasons your gains are being blocked. 1. Is your device making HHO? The most common problem we encounter is that HHO is not being produced, or is not getting into the engine. Check your system. Measure the output of your HHO cell by doing a water displacement test. A system should provide 1/4 - 1/2 litre/min of HHO per litre of engine displacement. Typically you should have 6-12 amps of current, depending on the size of your engine.

Alternatively, you can look at the HHO bubbles: place hose in a glass of water. You should see 2-3 bubbles per second. Check whether your unit is making HHO or steam. If your unit runs hot to the touch, you must suspect that at least part of your output is steam. One way to test for steam is to run your gas outlet over some ice. If you get significant amounts of fog forming (water droplets), you know that at least part of your output is steam. 2. Is the HHO getting into the engine? Check for leaks. A check valve oriented in the wrong direction can block the HHO from getting to the engine. Spray your hoses and connections with soapy water to expose any leaks in your system. HHO is very tiny and it will float away quickly if not contained. 3. Do you have an EFIE installed? Many customers with older vehicles, are successful after simply resetting their computer (after installing HHO) and do not require EFIE. Computer reset occurs by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes OR with the aid of an OBDII code reader, that plugs into your dash socket, under the steering wheel. 4. Do you have the right type of EFIE? Wide band EFIEs will not work for Narrow band sensors and vice versa. 5. Is your EFIE installed correctly and on the correct wire? Refer to the instructions for the type of EFIE you installed. If you have the correct phenomena for your signal wire, make sure you have the upstream sensor. Installing the EFIE on the wrong wire is one of the most common mistakes. 6. Reset your computer. Some computers are able to "learn" and adapt to the conditions that exist in your engine. Since you have made a major change by adding an HHO system and EFIEs, you may need to reset the computer to erase what it learned about the system when it was inefficient.You can reset your computer by disconnecting your battery ground wire from the car, and leaving it off for 15 or 20 minutes. It is recommended to do this every time you make a change to the EFIE's setting. 7. Is your EFIE functioning correctly? Check your manual to verify if your wiring is correct and measuring is as per our specifications. This is the single greatest cause of unsuccessful installations. Make sure you are connecting the correct type of EFIE for your car. Wideband or narrowband? Make certain you have an excellent ground connection, direct to the vehicle body or frame. Do not add extensions to the ground wires, especially on our EFIE combo and PWM. It will create enough error to render the EFIE useless. Before proceeding to the following steps you should make sure that all of the above steps are completed. The following are less likely to be the source of the problem, and require some additional expense. 8. Is your air cleaner dirty? A dirty air cleaner can ruin gas mileage. It causes a richer mixture by restricting air flow to the engine. 9. Do your oxygen sensors need to be replaced? Oxygen sensors wear out. You should replace them after 60,000 miles. If you are experiencing engine stalls or fast idle, this can be a symptom of bad oxygen sensors. If they are old, it is likely that replacing them will give you a good increase in mileage all by itself. 10. Is there something else mechanically wrong with your engine? You will often find that if your engine is not working properly, just fixing it can give you a dramatic increase in mileage all by itself. If you had any kind of check engine light before starting the project, you should get this fault explored and handled. If you're not sure, reset your computer, turn off all of your HHO, EFIEs and any other added modifications, and see if you still get a fault code. If so, get it fixed first, before adding your modifications. 11. Do other sensors need adjustment? After treating the oxygen sensors, the most likely sensor still needed to be treated is the MAF or the MAP. After treating the MAF or MAP, the other sensors that can be tuned with profit are the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) and CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor). 13. What did we miss in the steps above? All vehicles can be solved. Some of them are a little tougher than others due to the way the ECU was programmed. If you have got to this point and your vehicle is still not been solved, one of the above steps is still out.

Green Source Pulse Width Modulators (PWM)

What is a PWM Circuit?

A pulse circuit rapidly turns your generator on/off (30000 times per second). You get to set the percentage of on time, thereby allowing you to fine tune the HHO flow rate. Equally important, is your increased ability to control heat. If you require substantial HHO output, you need a PWM. Make sure it can handle your intended current and that it was PROPERLY RATED: many are over specified and will either not work or burn out in a short time.

High Output Constant Current Pulse Width Modulator Power supply 12 VDC Maximum Load: 30 amps @70% Duty Cycle Output Frequency : 3.0 KHz FIXED Adjust DC Pulse Width; output range from 0% to 100% Comes in a splash proof, mountable enclosure. Price: $55

Why Do I Need a PWM?

PWMs let you to use highly efficient electrolytes such as KOH/NaOH by allowing you to control the current inside the generator. Thus, the generator can have higher output and less heat build up.

We recommend using PWM if any of the following apply to you: 1. Using KOH/NaOH. 2. You are someone who does not want to experiment to get the flow rate optimized and would prefer a little convenience. 3. You live in a warm climate and/or require the generator to be working at higher flow rates, ie. near their capacity.

Why Constant Current Pulse Width Modulation (CCPWM)?

Unlike Regular PWM, CCPWM does NOT allow the HHO generator to keep increasing its flow rate (HHO output) as it warms up and/or on hot days. Other systems let the HHO keep getting hotter and drawing more current, an issue called “Thermal Runaway”; a condition that eventually leads to boiling the water in your HHO generator. The Green Source CCPWM prevents this problem and is especially important if installing on a more demanding V6/V8 engine.

Liability Statement Hydrogen generation and HHO supplementation are experimental in nature and have known inherent risks! We have provided all reasonable safety information, but it is assumed the user will have researched the technology and be familiar with its benefits and risks PRIOR TO USE. By using the supplied equipment, you agree to release its suppliers and manufacturers from any and all liability, in regards to the product’s use or misuse. Green Source generators have been designed with YOUR SAFETY as a top priority and can protect you from most of your own mistakes. Probably, the worst you will do is to melt a wire or boil your electrolyte. Other generators on the market have components that, in the event of an over-current condition can become excessively hot. This heated component can act as an ignition source for the HHO and EXPLODE YOUR GENERATOR. Our generators do NOT have internal components that can become dangerous. Our liability shall be limited ONLY to product replacement, should a defect be identified at the time of delivery. Thank you and Best Wishes, The Green Source Team