hair conditioner

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  • 1. HairConditioners By : Dr. Hemat Elgohary Email : h_2007152002@yahoo.com
  • 2. BenefitsReduce the forcesassociated withbrushing of the hairProvides colorretention benefits forcolor-treated hairThe reduction orprevention of flyaway specially by cationichair conditioners
  • 3. Increasing the ease ofbrushingRepair of damaged hairStrengthening of hairRepair of split ends Increase in hair shineFeel softerVitamin
  • 4. HAIR FIBER central cortexresponsible for thetensile properties of thehair cuticle.8 to 10 layers of overlapping cellshair feelshine comb ability
  • 5. No conditionerWith conditioner
  • 6. Virgin Hair Surfaces Hair that has not been chemically treated mix of hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity As a result of its protein structure the hair surface has an isoelectric point near 3.67 as a result of a layer which insures that the surface of fatty acids will contain negatively charged covalently bound to hydrophilic sites at the the outermost ordinary pH levels of hair caresurface of the cuticle products
  • 7. cystine In the hair cystine S-sulfonate UV cysteic acidThe tip portions of the hair, beingolder than the root portions - - - -therefore be more hydrophilicaffecting the nature of species thatcan bind to these sites.
  • 8. greater combing damagethe surface friction of hair tips is higher This eventually results indestruction of the covalently the tip ends of hair require bound lipid layer more and a feeling of dryness at conditioning than the rest of the tips the fiber Without sufficient conditioning, the cuticle layer is eventually lost, resulting in a split end
  • 9. Chemically Treated Hair Surfacespermingbleachingpermanent dyeingsignificant damage to the hair fiber tensile damage modify the surface of the hair Introducing negative charges oxidation of cystine to cysteic acid transformation of the fiber surface from a hydrophobic to hydrophilic
  • 10. treated hair generally requires more conditioning than virgin hair conditioner, can prolong the health of the hair fiber
  • 11. COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS Forms:thick Vaseline pomadescreamsgels mousseslotions spray mists.
  • 12. Classes :regular rinseoff conditionersintensive treatment conditionersleave-in products
  • 13. regular rinse-off conditionersnormally applied after shampoofollowed by a rinsing stepThis is the most common form ofconditioner sold.
  • 14. Intensive treatment conditionersNot for daily application. They are used for intensive treatmentcontain a higher level of active ingredients that are kept on the hair for a longer period of timesold as thicker creams to provide the perception of higher conditioning.
  • 15. Leave-in productslighter and can potentially provide more significantbenefits than rinse-off products everything applied stays on the hair until the nextshampoo.come in various forms, such as detanglers, leave-inlotions, and sprays.They are marketed either for single application ormultiple applications during the day. What about me?? !!!
  • 16. KEY INGREDIENTS OF HAIR CONDITIONERS Cationic Surfactants Lipophilic Conditioners Polymers Silicones Auxiliary Ingredients
  • 17. Cationic Surfactantsthe most widely used agents incommercial productsBenefits ExamplesEffectiveness stearalkonium chlorideVersatility Cetrimonium chlorideAvailability dicetyldimonium chloridelow cost
  • 18. counter anionschloridebromideMethosulfateBecause of the positive chargethey are substantive to hair and bind tonegative sites on the hair surface.
  • 19. The Resultshydrophobic coating on the fiber thatrender the hair softer and easier to comb Buildup of static charge (flyaway) is also greatlyreduced as a result of this surface modification deposition increases withincreasing negative charge on thehair surface
  • 20. Are you sure ??!!
  • 21. deposition and degree of penetration into the hair fiber interaction between cationic conditioners andthe hair fiber mainly occurs at the surface lowmolecular weight materials maypenetrate the interior via intercellular diffusion Cetrimonium bromide (CETAB)can penetrate the cuticular sheath as well as cortex
  • 22. Conditioner Properties and HydrophobicityBinding of Stearalkonium Chloride to Human Hair Type of hair Quat deposition at Quat deposition at tips roots (mg/g hair) (mg/g hair) Virgin hair 0.649 0.789 Bleached 1.62 1.83 hair more hydrophobic leads to increased deposition on hair
  • 23. Cetrimonium Laurtrimonium chloride chloride deposits on hair tricetylmonium chloride dicetyldimonium chloride monocetyl quat
  • 24. tricetylmonium cetrimonium chlorides chloridedicetyldimonium provide Provides heavier light to conditioning medium conditioning
  • 25. Detangling and wet combing, in particular,improve significantly from monocetyl todicetyl to tricetyl quatsNote that on some types of hair, the greatersubstantivity of higher conditioning quats canlead to buildup with repeated use and result inlimp, unmanageable hair.e.gA tricetyl quat might beused, in an intensiveconditioner meant only foroccasional use.
  • 26. commercial conditioners and shampoos The quaternium compounds normally used incommercial conditioners are not generallyfound in shampoosbecause of its incompatibility withcommon anionic detergents & conditioner
  • 27. Example Ethoquats.polyethylene glycol (PEG)cocomonium chlorideBoth of these quats are compatible withtypical anionic detergentsIntroducing hydrophilic groupsdecreases the conditioning efficacysuitable only in light conditioning Formulationsconditioning shampoos based on ethoquats wouldnot be expected to be very effective as a result of lowdeposition of the detergent-soluble ethoquat complex
  • 28. Other detergent-soluble quats :alkylamidopropyldihydroxypropyl dimonium chlorides lauryl methyl gluceth hydroxypropyl dimonium chloridehydrolyzed ginseng-saponin quaternary derivedfrom Korean ginseng saponinlow irritationthe same conditioning limitationsas the ethoquats.
  • 29. Other Cationic Surfactants Behentrimonium(C22) (longer fatty chain) reduced eye and skin irritationsuperior conditioning and thickeningproperties Tallow octyl dimonium chloride provides high conditioning as a result of its twohydrophobic chains.soluble in water as a result of branchingeasier to formulate into a commercial product.

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