Haircoloring Chapter 21

Draw the three layers of hair

CUTICLECORTEXMEDULLA

Three layers of hair

Cuticle – Outermost layer, Protection, Scale-like, 20% strengthCortex – Middle layer, gives strength, contains melanin, 80 % strengthMedulla – inner most layer, sometimes missing in fine hair.

Qualities of hair ~TEXTURE

DENSITY

POROSITY

ELASTICITY

~ TEXTURE TEXTURE- The diameter of a single hair

strand COARSE HAIR– LARGE DIAMETER

Takes longer to process, most resistant MEDIUM HAIR – MEDIUM DIAMETER FINE HAIR – SMALL DIAMETER

Processes faster, less resistant

DENSITY Hairs per square inch Thick hair or thin hair? The thicker the hair the thinner the

sections

Density ~ What hair color has the most density? The least?

POROSITY The ability of hair to absorb liquids

High porosity Cuticle highly lifted, damaged, rough Hair takes or processes faster

Average porosity Normal – healthy hair Slightly raised cuticle Average/Normal processing time

Low porosity Cuticle very tight, smooth, shiny More resistant, takes longer to process

Porosity – Which hair will take color fastest?

ELASTICITY

The ability of hair to stretch without breaking

Hair should stretch __50___ % of it's length

“Pull Test” is used to test elasticity of hair

Law of Color

Primary colors

Law of colorSecondary

Law of ColorTertiary colors

Complimentary colors Opposite colors combi on

Types of haircolorTemporarySemi Permanent

Demi Permanent

Permanent

Two categories of haircolor Non Oxidative

No lift

Oxidative lift – with the use of peroxide