hamptons magazine: sen's sister next door
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7/27/2019 Hamptons Magazine: Sen's Sister Next Door
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C E L
E BRAT
I N G
sen’s sister
next doorSAG HARBOR NEWCOMER THE CUDDY ISFILLED WITH TRADITIONAL AMERICANGASTROPUB FARE AND AN EXOTIC MENUOF HOUSEMADE COCKTAILS.BY MATTHEW WEXLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC STRIFFLER General Manager and Partner
Ryunosuke Jesse Matsuoka
Ataste of historic Sag Harbor has emerged on Main Street at The
Cuddy, an American gastropub that just opened this past April. And who bet ter to over see s uch a venture t han the son of a New
York ar tist a nd Japanese hi gh-d ivision sumo w restler?
If you’ve been even remotely tapped into the East End food scene since
the ’80s, this isn’t as unlikely as one might expect. “A sumo wrestler is
good at fighting, eating, and sleeping,” says Ryunosuke Jesse Matsuoka
of his father, Kazutomo. “Once you retire, you take
away the fighting and there is no industry for sleep-
ing, so the majority of sumo wrestlers get into food
and restaurants.”
Jesse and his brother, Tora, have been in the fam ilybusiness since they were old enough to wash dishes.
Along w ith bu siness part ner Jeff Resnick , the trio ha s
been an integral par t of Sag Harbor’s dining scene for
decades, most recently as the proprietors of The Cuddy’s popular neigh-
boring establishment, sushi mecca Sen and its Manhatta n cousin.Previously operating as Phao, a Thai restaurant, the team felt the
space needed to speak to more people and offer a n “everyday” kind of
cuisine that included brunch. “We wanted to highlight the best attri-
butes of the Hamptons,” says Jesse, “great local cuisine—handcrafted
whene ver p ossi ble— in a coz y, wa rm space t hat is i nvit ing for a ll.” They
brainstormed hundreds of names, but it was mother
Lynn who chimed in with The Cuddy, which
Matsuoka describes as “the safe and secure place on
a boat. It’s usually the driest and the warmest and is
sometimes used as a pantr y.” The name immediat elyimparted t he kind of environment they were looking
to create for a delicious meal.
continued on page 62
RIGHT: Roasted chickenwith wild mushrooms,sherry, and thyme jus androasted fingerlingpotatoes. BELOW: TheCuddy, a Americangastropub in Sag Harbor.
“We wanted tohighlight the
best attributes of the Hamptons.”JESSE MATSUOKA
60 HAMPTONS-MAGAZINE.COM
THIS WEEK: CASUAL CUISINE
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FROM TOP: The Cuddy’sinterior features reclaimedwood and nautical elementsthat reference Sag Harbor’shistory as a whaling village;
yellowtail tartare featuringwatermelon radish,avocado, endive, GoodWater Farms microgreens,and ponzu.
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SWEET SUCCESSOne of The Cuddy’s secrets to the perfect handcrafted
cocktail is its use of homemade simple syrups. Their basic
simple syrup is equal parts water and sugar, cooked slowly
until the sugar dissolves. Beverage Director Derek Neilsen has
created infused simple syrups, including a black tea variety
made with ITO EN’s Southampton Ceylon black tea blend, as
well as windflower honey and lavender syrup. As a special
garnish, The Cuddy also macerates its own cherries, which are
cooked in-house with a blend of spices, citrus zest, and sugar.
CLASS IN SESSIONIn an effort to build community and educate its customers
and staff, The Cuddy offers a series of free, informational
tastings and field trips. From whiskey profiling (do you know
the difference between sour mash, bourbon, and rye?) to
meet-the-farmer visits, this unique opportunity offers insider
access to the food and beverage industry. Upcoming events
are listed at thecuddy.com, or Hamptonites can join the
e-mail list by contacting [email protected].
There are lots of nooks to tuck into for a pint of beer and a snack of hand-
cut French fries with truff le salt or fried green tomatoes, but if you want to
see and be seen, request lucky table 13, where you can scan the room for
the likes of Eric Ripert, who has been known to make an appearance. A
communal table in the center of the restaurant offers diners the opportu-
nity to make new friends and further infuses The Cuddy with the localhangout vibe that Jesse and team are striving for.
Executive Chef Gil Chico’s menu supports and elevates the rest aurant’s
vision through re-im agined pub fare that rel ies on local i ngred ients. The
roasted beet salad is accented wit h house-cured bacon, aged cheddar, and
seasonal greens such as sorrel, which
adds floral, herbaceous notes to the
dish. Yellowtail tar tare avoids the East
End cliché of soy sauce and ginger and,
instead, is served sashimi-style with
vibrant avocado, endive, mic rogreens,
and ponzu. While much of the pro-duce is sourced from East Hampton’s
Good Water Farms, the chef has
turned to Painted Hills in Wheeler
County, Oregon, and specialty pur-
veyor D’Artag nan for h is beef, pork, and poult ry. Bacon-w rapped roa sted
quail is an unfussy dish, allowing the subtle gaminess to shine with the
simple accompaniment of roasted corn and black bean salad. Entrées such
as The Cuddy burger with tomato jam and Berkshire pork chop with tater
tots play with t he concept of comfort food, while the roasted chicken with
perfectly crisped skin, confit fingerling potatoes, wi ld mushrooms, sherry,
and thyme jus is a not-so-subtle reminder that t here are some serious chops
in the kitchen.
continued on page 64
Entrées such ase Cuddyburger with
tomato jam playwith the conceptof comfort food.
The Gentleman’s Favor:Michter’s rye whiskey,Carpano Anticavermouth, bitters,homemade cherries,and black-tea syrup.
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P H O T O G R A P H Y
B Y D A N I E L K R I E G E R ( M E A D O W ) ; E R I C S T R I F F L E R ( L O B
S T E R R O L L )
No gastropub would be complete without a
veritable bar to mosey up to after a day at sea— oran afternoon of shopping. The Cuddy enlisted
Beverage Director Derek Neilsen whose liba-
tions speak to the classics while incorporating
personal flair in his use of homemade simple
syrups and art isan spirits. Standouts include the
Gentleman’s Favor, an intoxicating combination
of Michter’s rye whiskey, Carpano Antica ver-
mouth, bitters, homemade cherries, and black
tea syrup; and Johnny Lemonade, a lip-puck-
ering refresher of wildflower honey lemonadeand Prairie organic vodka. Mainstay beers are
available for uncomplicated palates, while
uncommon finds such as Angry Orchard Hard
Cider from Ohio and Hitachino Nest White Ale
from Japan reflect T he Cuddy’s global appeal.
Matsuoka hopes that The Cuddy will become
the go-to place for restaurant industry folks as
well a s local s year -round. “We set out to build a
space that people wanted and needed,” says
Matsuoka, who lives upstairs. “Sag Harbor is the
oasis of the Hamptons. You can walk to the wharf and check out the beauti ful yacht s, the
windy roads —everyth ing is with in reach. And
given that Sag Harbor is an old whaling town,
drink ing will never go out of style.” 29 Main St.,
Sag Harbor, 725-0101; thecuddy.com H
Cavaniola’s GourmetI find Cavan iola’s cheese, wine, and
prepared food selections to be the most
indulgent, artisanal, and highest qualityin all of the Hamptons. Two of my favorite
purchases are the Triennes Rosé and the
Abbaye de Belloc (sheep’s milk cheese).
89B Division St., Sag Harbor, 725-0095;
cavaniola.com
Hampton Coffee Company Thi s place is char ming a nd simply the
most convenient location. It’s also a great
break from traff ic on 27 and gives my
family and me the opportunity to grab
a bite, then go to the farmers and flower
market next door.
869 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 726-2633;
hamptoncoffeecompany.com
Levain Bakery This is my wife Karin’s single favorite dessert
place in the world. As a st aple in our Upper
West Side neighborhood, she simply couldn’t
bear to be apart from it out East. We stop in
for the walnut chocolate chip cookies—they’re
always fresh, warm, and gooey.
354 Montauk Hwy., Wainscott, 537-8570;
levainbakery.com
Loaves & Fishes The halibut sa lad on its hou se-m ade
croissant is the single most indulgent
good to goLDV HOSPITALITY’S JOHN MEADOW LISTSHIS FAVORITE HAMPTONS LOCALES FOREXQUISITE CARRYOUT BITES.
continued from page 62
Flourless chocolate cake with salted caramel,marshmallow, peanuts, and house-madepeanut-butter ice cream.
continued on page 66
One of John Meadow’sfavorite dishes out East isSilver’s lobster roll (ABOVE),which is served with just atouch of mayo and celery.
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