HANDICRAFT PRINTING IN RAJASTHAN

Gopal Krishan DixitDFT III

•Textile is an important industry for Rajasthan, representing over 20 per cent of the investment made in the state.

•Wool production in Rajasthan has grown from 16 million kg in 1992-93 to around 20 million kg, currently representing over 40 per cent of India’s wool production.

RAJASTHAN AND ITS TEXTILE INDUSTRY

•Rajasthan contributes over 7.5 per cent of India’s production of cotton and blended yarn (235,000 tons in 2002-03) and over 5 per cent of fabrics (60 million sq meters).

•Bhilwara emerged as India's largest manufacturer of suiting, fabrics and yarn. Its share in the polyester/viscose fabrics (suiting) sector is around 50 per cent in India.

•Rajasthan has leading position in spinning of polyester viscose yarn & synthetic suiting and processing, printing & dyeing of low cost, low weight fabric (at Pali, Balotra, Sanganer and Bagru). Besides, Jaipur is also a well-known centre for manufacturing garments primarily for exports.

Textile Manufacturing Areas in Rajasthan

•Sanganer is famous worldwide for its dyeing and printing industries. There are about 400 industries involved in textile printing processes. Some knitting units are in process of setting up their ventures at Neemrana.

•Prominent players in the textile industry with presence in Rajasthan include Rajasthan Spinning& Weaving Mills, JK Synthetics, Nahar International and BSL Group.

Handicraft printing in Rajasthan

Hand Block PrintingDabu Hand block

printing

Sanganeri hand block Printing

Bagru Hand Block Printing

Tie and dye

Bandhej

Lehariya

Mothra

1. Resist/Dabu Printing of kala Dera, Rajasthan

STEP 1: Preparation of mud clay

The main interdients to make the mud resist.•Calcium hydroxide (Chuna in Hindi)•naturally pounded wheat chaff (Beedan in hindi)•gum (gound in hindi)

Cleaning of CaOh Mixing of Gum Ready dabu

STEP 3: Dyeing and washing process after dabu clay printing

STEP 2: Dabu block printing process

2. Sanganeri Hand Block Printing

Sanganer, near Jaipur, is famous for its fine hand block printing in subdued colors. Saganer has become a export hub for hand block print export. The Sanganeri Print is visible from small flower motifs like stylized sunflowers, narcissuses, roses, and other flowers of luxuriant foliage like daturas, rudrakshas, and arkas.

3. Bagru hand block printing

Bagru is the place of Chhipa community people who are involved in this printing tradition since 100 years ago.

These artisans smear the cloth with Fuller's earth got from the riverside and then dip it in turmeric water to get the habitual cream color background.

After that, they stamp the cloth with beautiful designs using natural dyes of earthly shades.

COLOR MATERIAL USED

Blue Indigo

Green Indigo plus pomegranate

Red Madder root

Yellow Turmeric

•As a matter of fact, Bagru prints are more famous for their exceptional quality of being eco-friendly

Colour also plays a unique role in tie and dye fabrics, a yellow background indicates that the weaver has recently given birth, the red circles on a yellow background mean she's had a son.

1. Bandhej

Tie and dye

The area of the fabric to be dyed is outlined using fugitive colors. Then a clear thin sheet of plastic, which has been pierced with pin holes, is kept over this area of the fabric and using fugitive colours an imprint of the desired pattern is transferred onto the fabric.

•The craftsperson then winds thread tightly around the protruding cloth to form a knot or bhindi. After tying the knots the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the imprint.

•The cloth is then dipped in napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light color for two minutes.

•Next it is rinsed, squeezed, dried and then tied again and dipped in a darker color. This is kept for three to four hours (without opening the knots) to allow the color to soak in. During this process the small area beneath the thread resists the dye leaving an undyed dot.

2. Lehriya (WAVES)

Lahariya has long lines in various shades running diagonally through the entire piece of cloth The fabric is rolled from one corner to the other diagonally and then it is tied at intervals with strings.The fabric is then dyed for two to three hours.

3. Mothra Mothra is an extension of Leheriya in which diagonal lines cross each other in opposite directions, at 45 degrees, giving rise to small diamond shapes. showcases a checked effect with opposite diagonals

Different types of dyes used in printing •Vat Dyes:

Vat dyes are an ancient class of dyes based on the original natural dye, indigo, which is now produced synthetically. Both cotton and wool, as well as other fibers, can be dyed with vat dyes. 'Vat dyeing' means dyeing in a bucket or vat.

•Direct Dyes: Also known as hot water dyes, direct dyes can be used with hot water and require no binding or exhausting agents. They are convenient but lack in color fastness and wash fastness.

•Napthol Dyes: These are two sets of chemicals which, upon reaction, produce a third chemical, essentially colorful in nature. The fabric is dyed with one and later printed with the other. The chemical reaction produces a third color.

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