hAPRIL 2014 4.20

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

Sarah

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FASHION

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CONTENTS APRIL 2014

her childrens fashion choicesand her transition to shoe designer

188 CHOUPETTEAND IIn search of the real Karl Lagerfeld,Justine Picardie meets the king offashion and his doted-on cat

206 PALAZZO PUCCI From aristocratto war hero to designer of the perfectprinted silk scarf the Emilio Puccistory is a fascinating one. Bazaarvisits the labels Florentine home todiscover its glamorous secrets

212 LIKEMOTHER, LIKEDAUGHTERThree generations ofFendi women give a rare interviewto Sasha Slater to discuss rebellion,matriarchal bonds and the brandsfeeling for Rome

218 HEART& SOULThe relationshipbetweenDomenicoDolce and StefanoGabbana is a true Italian love storythat celebrates their passion for life,their appreciation of the female formand the culture of their homeland

ON THE COVER162 Sarah Jessica Parker: fashions

favourite showgirl188 Karl Lagerfeld on cats & queens237 Beauty secrets: can you look

fabulous forever?From 108 Sex, power & glamour,

Italian style

FEATURES162 SOULMATECover star Sarah

Jessica Parker on staying married,

162PAGESarah Jessica Parkerwearing Jason Wu

April 2014 | HARPERS BAZAAR | 33www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

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108 ROMANCEOF THE STONESThe tale of Romes famous Bulgarijewellery is one of diamonds,sapphires, stars and seduction

110 BE ATONEThinking fashion: whytrue and lasting style begins within

ACCESSORIES117 THE JOYSOF SPRINGOur

favourite accessories in the sweetestsorbet shades and sleek metallics

JEWELLERY131 PERFECT SPECIMENS

Exquisitely unusual watches inrose gold and pink sapphire are realcollectors pieces

SHOP BAZAAR142 PLAYTIMEAn irreverent new

take on eveningwear

TALKING POINTS150 PASSION PLAYAhead of an epic

exhibition, we join the V&Ascelebration of Italian fashion

152 MASTEROFDISGUISE Fortyyears of Jean Paul Gaultier arecelebrated in a retrospective

153 OUTSIDE THE BOXTwo showsdisplay the very different styles ofthe artist Piet Mondrian

153 MYCULTURAL LIFEActress Thandie Newton

154 MADEWITH LOVEThe storybehind Emma Bridgewatersquintessentially English pottery

155 BEAUTYANDTHE BEASTOurlongstanding obsession with youth isat the heart of a thrilling new novel

156 MOVINGANDTELLINGA Winters Tale dances onto the stageof the Royal Opera House

212Three generationsof Fendi womenPAGE

FASHION174 POETRY INMOTIONThe seasons

most graceful, uid looks showcasedby Royal Ballet dancers

194 BEACH PARTY S/S 14s metallicsdazzle against a sultry backdropof sea and sand

222 SPIRIT OF ADVENTUREBe daring and embrace boldsummer black

STYLE85 10 THINGSWELOVE Bazaars

biggest fashion hits for April100 MYMOODBOARDDonna Karan

on how the perfect scarf inspiredher S/S 14 collection

103 MYLIFE, MY STYLEInside the chic Parisian home ofJosephs British creative director,Louise Trotter

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk40 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

CONTENTS

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COVER LOOKS Above left: Sarah Jessica Parker wears embroidered feather and sequin cape; embroidered skirt, both from a selection, Louis Vuitton. Rhodium-plated white gold and black diamond ring,from a selection, De Grisogono. Above, second from left (subscribers cover): organza dress, about 3,525, Zac Posen. Pink gold and pav diamond ring, 14,000, Bulgari. See Stockists for details.Styled by Miranda Almond. Hair by Serge Normant at Sergenormant.com. Make-up by Leslie Lopez at the Wall Group. Manicure by Gina Eppolito for Ginails.com. Photographs by Alexi Lubomirksi.Centre three covers (limited-edition covers available exclusively at the V&A): design sketches by Emilio Pucci, from left: Tulipani pannello (1965); Sole 1970s; Anonimo 1960s. Far right(limited-edition cover available exclusively at Selfridges): Portrait of Marquis Emilio Pucci of Barsento (1960s) by Brunetta. Photographs the Emilio Pucci Archive, Florence

SUBSCRIBE toHARPERSBAZAAR

turn to page 159, or ring 0844 848 1601

BEAUTY BAZAAR237 BEAUTIFUL AT EVERY AGE The

essential hair, make-up and skincaretips to keep you looking your best

246 PEARLY PERFECTION LauraTennant on the quest for dream teeth

250 SCARLET WOMAN SupermodelCarolyn Murphy reveals the powerof the perfect red lipstick

ESCAPE254 AWAY WITH THE FLOCK Chic

getaways for you and your brood256 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Model and

designer Lauren Bush Lauren on thenatural splendour of Kenya

FLASH!258 FREE SPIRITS Behind the scenes at

the British Independent Film Awards259 CHILDS PLAY Gwyneth Paltrow

and Matthew Williamsonsfundraiser for Kids Company

REGULARS69 EDITORS LETTER78 CONTRIBUTORS140 THE AGENDA Retail inspiration

for the month ahead158 HOROSCOPES April in the stars.

By Peter Watson260 STOCKISTS266 HOW BAZAAR Classic moments

from our archives revisited

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk50 | HAR P E RS BA ZA AR | April 2014

CONTENTS

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EGANCAMERON

CO.UKBEAUTY CELEBRITIES LIFESTYLE BLOGS SUBSCRIBE COMPETITIONS HOROSCOPESFASHIONHOME VIDEOLATEST

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BEAUTYREVAMP

THE BAREFACED GUIDEHow to apply springs

fresh new look

EXCLUSIVE VIDEOGive your cleansing regime an overhaul,

by Newby Hands

HAIR UPDATEThe best conditioning treatments

and top trends to try at home

From themust-have products to BAZAARs little black book of experts,our denitive guide to everything you need to know this season

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Published on 4 March

JUSTINE PICARDIEEditor-in-chief

Creative director MARISSA BOURKEDeputy editor SASHA SLATER Digital and development editor SACHA BONSOR

Assistant to the editor/events manager LUCY HALFHEAD

Managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE Chief sub-editor DOM PRICEPicture director CHLOE LIMPKIN

Associate editors SARA PARKER BOWLES, AJESH PATALAY

FASHIONFashion director AVRIL MAIR

Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELDExecutive fashion director EUGENIE HANMER

Executive fashion and jewellery editor JULIE-ANNE DORFFFashion director-at-large CATHY KASTERINE Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK

Senior fashion editor MIRANDA ALMONDFashion production and bookings editor DANIEL J ROBSON

Junior fashion editor LINH LYFashion assistants EMMA SHAW, FLORRIE THOMAS

Fashion features assistant ANNA ROSA VITIELLOContributing fashion editors CARMEN BORGONOVO, MELANIE HUYNH,

TONY IRVINE, MATTIAS KARLSSON, HANNAH TEARE, SISSY VIAN

FEATURESCommissioning editor VIOLET HUDSON

Assistant features editor HELENA LEEContributing features assistant EMMA ZACHARIA

Flash! and Guest List editor FRANCES WASEM

BEAUTY AND HEALTHBeauty director SOPHIE BLOOMFIELDBeauty director-at-large NEWBY HANDSAssistant beauty editor VICTORIA HALL

ARTArt director JAY HESS

Contributing art director CHRISTOPHER WHALEPicture editor LIZ PEARNDesigner AMY GALVIN

Picture assistant REBECCA HARRISONArt co-ordinator KIMBERLEY DYER

COPYDeputy chief sub-editor MELANIE LAW

Sub-editor CAROLINE LEWISContributing sub-editor ROBIN WILKS

WEBSITEOnline deputy editor SARAH KARMALIOnline assistant editor REBECCA COPE

Assistant content producer ROSIE REEVES

CONTRIBUTING EDITORSSAM BAKER, LYDIA BELL, HANNAH BETTS, CLARE COULSON,

SOPHIE DAHL, SOPHIE DENING, SOPHIE ELMHIRST, AMANDA HARLECH,NATALIE LIVINGSTONE, GIANLUCA LONGO, JULIE MYERSON,

CAROLINE ROUX, LWREN SCOTT, LAURA TENNANT

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERSCAMILLA AKRANS, TOM ALLEN, JULIAN BROAD, LIZ COLLINS,

VICTOR DEMARCHELIER, MICHELANGELO DI BATTISTA, HORST DIEKGERDES,TIERNEY GEARON, KACPER KASPRZYK, SEBASTIAN KIM, PAOLA KUDACKI,

THOMAS LAGRANGE, ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, MARY MCCARTNEY,DON MCCULLIN, TRENT MCGINN, TOM MUNRO, CATHLEEN NAUNDORF,

MIGUEL REVERIEGO, MARK SEGAL, MARK SELIGER, DAVID SLIJPER,SOLVE SUNDSBO, ELLEN VON UNWERTH, BEN WELLER, YELENA YEMCHUK

Harpers Bazaar ISSN 0141-0547 is published monthly (12 times a year) by Hearst UK c/o USACAN Media Distr.Srv. Corp. at 26 Power Dam Way Suite S1S3, Plattsburgh, NY 12901. Periodicals postage paid at Plattsburgh, NY.POSTMASTER: send address changes to Harpers Bazaar c/o Express Mag, PO Box 2769, Plattsburgh, NY 12901-0239.

Harpers Bazaar is distributed by Cond Nast and National Magazine Distributors Limited (COMAG), TavistockRoad, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE (01895 433600; fax: 01895 433602). Managing director: Mike Mirams.Sole agents for Australia and New Zealand: Gordon & Gotch (Australasia) Ltd. Agents for South Africa: Central

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Subscribe todownload everynew digital issuethemoment itgoes on sale

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AMANDA TURNBULLGroup publishing director

Publisher JACQUELINE EUWE

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Talk to us on Twitter @BazaarUK

OnSunday 16March,join the gardener SarahRavenandBazaar editor-in-chief

Justine Picardie for agarden tour of Sissinghurst

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HARPERSBAZAAR.CO.UK/VIPEVENTS

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BOOK, VISIT

! & #& & %%%$

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EDITORSLETTER

GRAGOOD

There were two starting points for this issueexhibition at the V&A The Glamour of Iprompted our wide-ranging interviews withexponents, including three generationsLaudomia Pucci, Domenico Dolce and Stef G

Secondly and not disassociated fromenduring appeal of Italian style the Bazaa

the idea of ageless beauty.way, how might we rejoice inbeautiful at every age? Thiseveral animated conversatiothat beauty should not be eqyouth, nor kept in a stateanimation (whether by injeor the surgeons knife); others,that older women are now ableto look younger than in pre-vious generations, because ofadvanced skincare productsand healthier lifestyles.

But whatever our differences of opinion and I always want Bazaar to be a platformfor debate, rather than uniformity weagreed that there is such a thing as timelessstyle. This might seem at odds with e fashionindustry, whose prots depend on embracing thenew. (To quote Chanel, a dress is a charming anephemeral creation, not an everlasting work of art. Fashould die and die quickly, in order that commerce maysurvive The more transient fashion is, the moperfect it is. You cant protect what is already deadAnd yet, when you consider the clothes that neverdateChanels littleblackdress fromtheTwenties;Diors New Look tailorin he late Forties;

1,430Fendi

2,020Bulgari

299Salvatore

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5,85Boodles

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When it comes to timeless style,youve got to start with a little blackdress, and this one by Karl Lagerfeld

is perfect. Add classic black slingbacksor at pumps, diamond earrings, adecoratively monochrome bag and

a Chanel jacket, and youre done.These are pieces to treasure

for years to come.

165Karl

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Justine PicardiePS: Download your digital edition as well as previous articles from

Harpers Bazaar at http://itunes.com/apps/harpersbazaaruk

Right: drMoschin

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Puccis vivid Fifties prints; Saint Laurents Sixties tuxedo suits itbecomes apparent that fashion can be more enduring than its prac-titioners might have us believe.

This has prompted some designers to differentiate betweenfashion and style (Fashions fade, style is eternal, according to YvesSaint Laurent); but whatever ones chosen denition of timelessbeauty, I hope that this edition of Bazaar will inspire you as muchas it has inspired us. Whether you start with our cover story onSarah JessicaParkeror the fashion shoot featuringthe dancers of the Royal Ballet, there is a gloriousvariety of writing, art and photography in thefollowing pages.

Harpers Bazaar has always been a championof eclecticism as keen in previous decades topublish the poems of John Betjeman as the draw-ingsofSalvadorDalandIamthereforedelightedto continue in that tradition. This months issueincludes Tom Allens fashion shoot with thewonderfully graceful Royal Ballet dancers, bothonstageandbehind the scenesat theRoyalOpera

House. As it happens, one ofBazaar s greatest ever artdirectors, Alexey Brodovitch,started his career working forDiaghilevs Ballets Russes as ayoung migr in TwentiesParis; so there is a pleasingresonance in this contempo-rary collaboration.

Finally, I was fortunateenough to interview KarlLagerfeld, as he prepares to open a new Londonstore (stocking his own eponymous label); and

was reminded, as I am whenever we meet, of his remarkable talentto accommodate constant change, as well as ensuring a lastinglegacy. That balancing act is an indication, perhaps, of the subtlerelationship between the passage of time and the ebbs and ows offashion. And therein lies a possible clue to the secret of agelessness;live in the moment, but then let it go

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78 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

CONTRIBUTORS

A regular Bazaarcontributor, thephotographer offers anelegant take on modernfeminine glamour inPlay time (page 142).Born in New York, hestudied economics andne art at Vassar Collegebefore serving anapprenticeship in thestudio of his father,the legendaryphotographer PatrickDemarchelier. He nowshoots for fashion housesand magazines all overthe world.Whichbeauty icondoyouadmire? DariaWerbowy. She has suchan intriguing beauty andsuch a lovely personality.Howwouldyou like tospendyouroldage?Exactly as I spend mytime now: travellingand working.

The philanthropistshares her tips fortravelling in Kenyaon page 256. Laurenfounded Feed in 2006 bydesigning a bag which,when purchased,provided the funds tofeed one schoolchild forone year. Since then, thecharity has providedover 75 million mealsglobally. She lives inNew York but makesregular trips to Africa.Whats themostadventurous thingyouveeverdone?Ten years ago, I wentskydiving with mygrandfather who wasturning 80.Whatmakes someonebeautiful? It may be aclich, but kindness andbeing open to life makesomeone beautiful.

Bazaar s executivefashion and jewelleryeditor curates ourselection of irresistiblewatches (page 131).Born in Nantes, France,Dorff studied marketingand communication inBrussels and Boston.She worked at Chanelbefore joining HarpersBazaar in 2013.Whats themostadventurous thingyouveeverdone?I am very lucky that myparents encouraged meto travel and studyabroad, and always to becurious about the worldaround me.Whichbeauty iconsdoyouadmire? LaurenHutton and KatharineHepburn for theirtimeless elegance.Beyonc for heramazing energy.

Bazaar s beautydirector-at-largehas two decades ofexperience writingabout beauty and hasinterviewed DollyParton, Mrs Thatcherand every supermodelyou can think of. She isalso editorial directorat Feelunique.com.Whats themostadventurous thingyouveeverdone?Every summer was atrek with my parentsto somewhere far-ung,from Easter Island toNorth Korea to Siberia.Whoisyourhero?Camila Batmanghelidjh.Whichbeauty icondoyouadmire? EsteLauder. I did her lastinterview before she died she didnt disappoint.

The creative directorof Joseph since 2009,Trotter shows us howshe manages in afrenetic world in Mylife, my style on page103. Having worked atCalvin Klein and Gapin New York, she nowshuttles weekly betweenLondon and Paris. Thisyear, Joseph celebratedits 25th anniversary byshowing at LondonFashion Week.Whats themostadventurous thingyouveeverdone?Having three childrenin four years.Whoisyourhero?My husband, becausehes the one.Whatsonyourbedsidetable? A bottle of water,an iPad to ease myinsomnia, a notebookand pencil, and an alarmclock that I never set.

HARPERSBAZAAR.CO.UK/VIPEVENTSFOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BOOK, VISIT

VIPPrivateviews,openingnights, exclusivevisits,hiddengemsbepartof theBazaarworld

From the Queens Fifties ballgownsto Princess Dianas Eighties power

dressing, the wardrobes of theHouse of Windsor are a history

of fashion in themselves. On 14 April,Bazaar readers will be served drinks inthe Orangery for a discussion between theHistoric Royal Palaces chief curator, LucyWorsley, and Bazaars editor-in-chief,Justine Picardie, followed by a private viewwith Worsley. Tickets cost 30, includinga goodie bag. Current Bazaar subscriberscan receive a 10 discount on HistoricRoyal Palaces membership on the night.

Bazaar readersare invitedtoa FashionRules talkandprivateviewatLondonsKENSINGTONPALACE

Royalstyle

Talk &privateview

ACTING FOR OTHERSAttend a talk at Fenwick Bond Street withDownton Abbey writer Julian Felloweson 10 April. Tickets cost 110 (includingdrinks, a goodie bag and a years Bazaarsubscription); 100 from each ticket goestowards combined theatrical charities.

BALLET ON SCREENOn 28 April, join us in the cinema of theMay Fair hotel for the world-premiere livescreening of The Winters Tale direct fromthe Royal Ballet, including a conversationbetween the ballets stars. Tickets cost45, including drinks and a goodie bag.

Worldpremiere

Exclusivetalk

ITALIAN FASHIONJoin Bazaars Justine Picardie and curatorSonnet Stanll at the V&A on 24 April fora discussion of the show The Glamour ofItalian Fashion 19452014, followed by a

private viewing. Tickets cost 35, includingdrinks, canaps and a goodie bag.

Talk &privateview

Stella Tennantphotographed atKensington Palacefor Bazaar

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T R E N DLACE

Styles may come and go but theallure of lace is everlasting: a

glimpse at the S/S 14 collectionsis all it takes to understand why.Trust DOLCE & GABBANA to

make the ultimate investment dress exquisite white lace with delicate

ower embellishment. Sublime.

ES I COATfor JACKIEUDREY

s certainly goodenough for us. The trench anunexpected star on the S/S 14

catwalks is the only outerwearyoull ever need. This version,

reimagined with oral panels byGIVENCHY, is a modern classic.

T H EE V E N I N G W E A

S TA P L ETHE LBD

Immortalised by COCO CHANin the 1920s, the LBD is arguably th

recognisable acronym and dresin fashion history, and a surprising

piece for S/S 14.

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Ring, 4,299

Ring, 2,210

Ring, 1,500

Single-pearl earrings,

earrings, 625, both

Earrings, 1,499

T H E AC C E S S O R YFOREVER SLIPPERS

Come day or ight, rain or shi these are th ats well never stop wearing.

y

corset-maker Ada Masotti, the label

has been a symbol of exceptional and

beautifully crafted lingerie for 60 years.

Now under the creative directorship of

Masottis son ALBERTO, the brand is

celebrating the recent reopening of its

Sloane Street boutique. The rst thing

onourwish list?This all-concealing slip.Backstage at

Emilia Wickstead

94 | HAR P E RS BA ZA AR | April 2014

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T H E S TA P L ETHE WHITE SHIRT

Yes, this is the season of the white shirt:a non-trend, if you will. From sleeveless silk

at SAINT LAURENT to pleated lace atERDEM, its the wardrobe essential that

keeps on giving.

Pringle of

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk96 | HAR P E

STYLE

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Karansodboard.from theollection

nThat Donna Karans S/S 14 collection was founded on the eof wearing a scarf should come as no surprise: after all, shethe designer who, in 1985, built her brand on Seven Easy PiecesBut it was a journey around India and a search for one par-ticular scarf that inspired the designer to create her latestvision. I never found it, but the search led to a world of inspira-tion: how to combine masculine and feminine; structure withfreedom; day and night. A deconstructed wrap dress ina hand-blocked print evoked the uncomplicated nature of anoversize silk shawl, and hand-woven leather and beadedembellishment adorned the belts and shoes. I wanted artisanculture to be expressed in a modern, urban lifestyle, saysKaran. It became a never-ending journey of creating optionfor a woman to make her own. ANNA ROSA VITIELLO

100 | HAR P E RS BA ZA AR | April 2014

TheParishomeofJosephscreativedirectorLouiseTrotter reects

her loveofmonochromeandantiquesmarketsBy SARA PARKER BOWLES

Photographs by CAMILLA ARMBRUST

MYLIFE,MY

STYLE

Clockwise from top: LouiseTrotter wearing her ownJoseph designs, in the black room where sheentertains. The replace inthe sitting-room with letterlights from the March PaulBert. Maripol by AndyWarhol. The white room

This year, the beloved British brand Josephcelebrates the25thanniversaryof itsFulhamRoad agship. For those of us who wereteenagers in the1990s, apairof black tailoredcrepe trousers from the label was as much ariteofpassageaswearingMichelPerry shoes,listening to Soul II Soul, driving a soft-topGolf andwatchingThe Word. LouiseTrotterwas one of those girls, except she took it onestep further than the rest of us and went onto become Josephs creative director, suc-ceding thebrands inuential founder JosephEttedgui, who died in 2010.

Josephwas apart ofmyDNAwhen Iwasgrowing up, says Trotter, who is now 39. So

April 2014 | HARPERS BAZAAR | 103

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Clockwise from left:Trotter wearing her ownJoseph designs in thewhite room. Shelves inthe sitting-room. Herdaughter Coco playingdrums in her bedroom

Above: a stuffeddeer head in the

hallway. Right: aTracey Emin

monograph. Belowright: Cocosrst picture

when I got the job of creativedirector here ve years ago, itfelt like coming home. Josephwas hugely inspiring, he wasreally a fashioncurator.His eyefor up-and-coming designers,such as Kenzo, and the way inwhich hemade his brand a life-style choice had a big impacton me. Joseph was as muchabout the food you ate and thephotography and architectureyou likedas theclothes.Hewasa pioneer who paved the wayfor boutiques such as Colettein Paris and 10 Corso Como inMilan. I remember going toJoesCafe[therestaurant Josephfounded in the basement of the FulhamRoad shop] and thinking to myself, Iwant my house to look exactly like this.Nobodyhaddone that before; hewas veryahead of his time. The Joseph philosophywas my starting point in design.

Trotter also knewEttedgui personally,from the early part of her fashion appren-ticeship with Lucille Lewin the founderof Whistles and another inuential gurewhoalso contributed to the transformationof the British high street throughout thelate Eighties and early Nineties.

In her twenties, Trotter worked inItaly and Paris. She then moved to NewYork, and worked for Calvin Klein, Gapand then Tommy Hilger.

Although Trotter and her husbandYuske Tanaka, who is from Tokyo, havea home in west London, they have beenliving and working in Paris for the pastthree years. She was just six months intoher new role at Joseph when she rst fellpregnant, and the couple currently sharetheir airy Parisian apartment with theirtwo children, Coco (who is three and a half )and Milo (18 months) but number threeis due along any day now.

Trotter says she is a magpieby nature and loves to scourmarkets when she travels. HerLondon home is dark andlled with Victoriana, so shewanted to create somethingmuch lighter for her Parisianapartment. Monochrome is theguiding principle. I tend to see

things inonlyblack andwhite, she says.Thesitting-room is divided into two parts:the black room and the white room. The

104 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

LOUISESWORLD

Clockwise frombelow left: Trotterwearing her ownJoseph designs.Herms cuffs and anElsa Peretti vintagecuff in the bedroom.Coco and Milo

925Joseph

200 for100ml

Editionsde Parfums

FrdricMalle

33 for 60mlAesop

white room is calm, comfortableand where they sit and read and rest.The black room is warmer and thisis where they eat and entertain. Ilove mid-century furniture, but Imnotapurist, saysTrotter,whose ideaof heaven is spending a weekendat Clignancourt Market chatting tothe antique dealers. I love MarchPaul Bert and Porte de Vanvesbecause the dealers really specialiseand its so well curated, she says.When Im in London, I go toGolborne Road and SunburyMarket at Kempton Park.

On the walls of the sitting-roomis a Mario Testino print ofKate Moss, a portraitof Lily Cole by GillianWearing, her daughterCocos rst painting anda Warhol print of Maripol.The master bedroom ishome to a number ofTracey Emin lithographs,which Trotter collects.Lots of pieces of Margielahomeware are dottedabout with taxidermyfrom Claude Nature on Boulevard Saint-Germain: black crows on the darkmantelpiece and tiny white nches on thelight mantelpiece. There are books on

Rothko and Helmut Newton, and collec-tions of photography by Sam Haskins andLinda McCartney.

She has a huge collection of silver chainsand adores chunky cuffs particularly ifthey are by Herms. As a recent birthdaypresent, Tanaka bought her a vintage 1970sElsa Peretti silver cuff. Her favourite labelsother than Joseph include Margiela, JunyaWatanabe and Comme des Garons, andshe will not be parted from her Clinemink-lined sports slippers.

Im obsessed with coats and knits, saysTrotter. Which is fortunate, as they havelong been classic Joseph staples and con-tinue to do well for the brand. Trotters Bettycoat, a black and white striped shearlingdesign for last winter, ew off the shelves.Trotter has also put Joseph on the map whenit comes to practical, beautiful accessories. Ihate heavy bags so I have really tried tdesign something that is stylish but that wialso provide a true service to the Josepwoman. She says that for her, comfort is keyI covet easy pieces designed in an intelligentway. Ive always disliked clothes that donfunction or arent comfortable because tthe end of the day, you should never forgetwho you are designing for. Clothes armeant to be worn as well as admired.

108 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

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L ook out there, says GiampaoloDella Croce. Look at the roundedbridges of the Tiber, the dome ofSt Peters. Look at all the curvedcheeks of the putti in the churches.Its sensual, its three-dimensional,its feminine. These elements, for Bulgaris director ofhigh jewellery, dene theuniquelyRomanquality of thebrands colourful stones and diamond serpent bracelets.

Della Croce (whose favourite gem is the spinel, forits warm, clear red) is under the spell of the jewels. Thefascination for stones lies inour souls, he says. Whocanfail to be beguiled by the sparkle, the rarity, the hard-ness? He spends his life tempting patrician Romans,sheikhas behind high palace walls and Silicon Valleyhotshots with his glittering hoards of vivid jewels.

BecauseBulgari hasmade itsmarkwith colour, usingyellow and pink gold, rather than platinum, combiningthehotorangeof a citrineand thepurpleof anamethyst,sea-green tourmalines and poppy-red garnets. It has created neck-laces that, in the words of Amanda Triossi, the jewellery historianandcuratorof theBulgariHeritageCollection, are elegantandstrongwith a certain solemnity. Theres a papal grandeur to some pieces,and Bulgari makes rich use of the past, copying the base of an Ioniccolumn for a silver clock, or setting ancient coins into necklaces.

It isDellaCroces job to scatter Bulgaris stones across the necks oftheworldsmost enviedwomen; and it isTriossis to gather the collec-tion back together for the archive. Another Roman (she hankersafter brilliant blue benitoite), she is a hunter whose territory is thegreat private jewel boxes of the world. When ElizabethTaylor died, Triossi bought back the emerald anddiamond necklace, ring and brooch that RichardBurton had given the star. These will nd their wayinto theV&As TheGlamour of ItalianFashion 19452014 exhibition. For, asTriossi says, it wasAmericanlm stars of the 1950s and 1960s who created Italianstyle and allowed Bulgari to boom, along with Pucci,

Valentino and the Sorelle Fontana. Hollywood came to lm atCinecitt, and went shopping on the Spanish Steps. I introduced Lizto beer; she introduced me to Bulgari, said Burton, and I think wecan all agree which was the more worthwhile acquaintance.

Triossi and I sit at a table scatteredwithmillionsofpoundsworthof sapphire earrings, lapis brooches, diamond watches and silver-ware dating from the rms beginnings. The change in design fromthe formalityof theFifties to the freedomof theSeventies is startling.Fashion is a backdrop for jewellery, explains Triossi. When theline of a dress changes, that dictates a change in jewellery. So in

the 1970s, with a loose neckline, our necklaces became

Famouswomen,preciousgemsandtheEternalCity

theBulgaristoryisfullofcolourBy SASHA SLATER

Main photograph by DAVID SLIJPER

ROMANCEOF THE

STONES

From far left: a gold,sapphire, turquoiseand diamond Bulgaribrooch from about 1975.The rms storefronton the Via Condotti,Rome, in the 1920s

Gold and gemstonenecklace, from aselection, Bulgari.Silk top, 1,355,Saint Laurent by HediSlimane. Suede shorts,960, Valentino

April 2014 | HARPERS BAZAAR | 109

STYLE

long pendants. With the 1980s and the powersuit, the look changes and you get tight collars ofdiamonds and enamels. Stars who famously woreBulgari jewels ranged from Sophia Loren toMarilyn Monroe, Princess Soraya to Nicole Kid-man. Diana Vreeland, Bazaar s legendary fashioneditor, had an enamelled gold serpent with sap-phire eyes that she wore coiled around her waist

or her throat, depending on her mood. Dontforget the serpent, she said. The serpent

should be on every nger and on allwrists and everywhere. We cannotsee enough of them.

Triossi may be an expert on thehistory of the rm, but Nicola Bulgari,descendant of the Greek silversmith

Sotirios Voulgaris who started the familybusiness in 1884, has lived it. His father

Giorgio went to Paris in 1908 and came back with the ambi-tion to turn the silver boutique into a great jewellery

house. Nicola, now Bulgaris vice-chairman,worked behind the shop counter in the 1960sand remembers Taylors visits. She was quitea character. I was too young to be involved butI saw the excitement Rome was much more

glamorous then. But the world changes, andmoney changes, and different people wear our jew-

ellery in differentways.Nicolawaspart of the reinventionof Bulgari in the 1970s, when it started making jewels that, as he

says, couldbeworn everyhourof theday.Youcouldwear themwithjeans. It was jewellery for an afuent audience, but one that wanted

less formality. On the back of this, Bulgari expanded fast; thefamily sold to LVMH in 2011, in a 4.3 billion deal that givesthema3.5 per cent stake in the conglomerate. ButNicola (whofavours the sapphire, for its innite variety of colours) and hisbrother Paolo still embody the rm.

When I meet him, Nicola is sitting at a table gleaming withgold carafes and silver trays. Like Sotirios, he is passionate about

silver. It was he who had the idea of using ancient money inmodernjewels. We lean over the table, playing with his collection of coins.Look at this one, he cries. Its like a painting. So beautiful! TheresadecadrachmfromAgrigento, oneofonlynine in theworld.Anothercoin features a pouchy, debauched Nero: A corrupt face, to say theleast, says Nicola, but an interesting one. His passion is palpable.

While Nicola adores the silver, Paolo, the companys chairman,is the expert on stones. In thene-jewelleryworkshopoutsideRome,one artisan speaks in awed tones of presenting eachheartbreakinglybeautiful piece to his boss. He shuts his eyes, he whispers. Hedoesnt look at the jewel; he feels it, he listens to it. Its years of experi-ence, but really its in his DNA. So perfect is each piece that theunderside of a necklace is as painstakingly crafted as the front, andevery ring is tested tomake sure itwont ladder a nylon stocking. For,asNicola says: We sell happiness here. This business connects withsuccess and happiness. It gives a lot of pleasure and a lot of smiles.The Glamour of Italian Fashion 19452014 is at the V&A (www.vam.ac.uk) from 5 April to 27 July.

kwise from above:e Kidman wearingari necklace in 2003.ld and diamond broochphia Loren in Bulgarimerald and diamond

necklace given by Richard Burtonas a wedding gift to Taylor in 1964

Clockwise from left: ElizabethTaylor in Bulgari jewels in1967. A gold and enamel ringfrom 1965. Diana Vreeland inher Bulgari Serpenti necklacein 1979. A 1970s citrine, yellowsapphire and diamond sautoir

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

o one is young after 40, but one can be irresist-ible at any age, observed Coco Chanel, as sheherself proved time and time again. ConsiderChanel in her forties, during her love affairWestminster, when she was still as alluringlyas she had been a decade previously andntinue to be well into her eighties.g thing about Chanel along with all the otherll prove that style is not simply for the youngays looked entirely herself, rather than trying

one else. The French have an apt descriptionns sa peau (literally, to be well in ones skin; orneself ). And the older I get, the more I realisenwhosefashionsenseIadmireCateBlanchett,Laudomia Pucci dont ever pretend to beith insouciant, untroubled elegance.sange, the embodiment of poised sophistica-ns, worn with a navy ne-knit sweater, a littlere Roger Vivier ats. You should dress to feelIt takes life to learn that.d is crucial; without it, even the most beauti-

be lacking. And yes, there are external factors:fortably tight, or your heels impossibly high,ressing gracefully. But what goes on inside is

i uote Diana Vreeland, The only real eleganceot that, the rest really comes from it.was nely attuned to the shifts and swervesat Bazaar for 26 years, and became editor oft that did not skew her remarkably consistentstyle and look. Generally clad in black ord (crimson lips and scarlet slippers) and won-

wellery (like Chanel, she wore cuffs on eachxture of real and fake stones), Vreeland was as

c diosyncratic.d provide encouragement to those of us whol (as opposed to a futile clinging to youth); and

d l you otherwise.

INKING FASHION

Feeling good about yourselfy to timeless style

By JUSTINE PICARDIE

AT O N E

ILLUSTRATION BYRORE DE LA MORINERIE

STYLE

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SILVER SCENE

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THEMAY ISSUEON SALE 2 APRILGiambattistaValli Couture

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Of all the pastel coloursmaking a play for ourattention this summer,

powder blue is our favourite. Thiscool colour works well with black or

white, and brilliantly with tans or khakis;it feels fresh and a little less girlie than the

peach and pink alternatives.Dior (www.dior.com).

Juicy Couture (www.juicycouture.com).La Perla (www.laperla.com).Les Petites (www.lespetites.fr).Longchamp (020 3141 8141).Next (www.next.co.uk).

Radley (www.radley.co.uk).

THEAGENDAEverything you need for h AprilBy JO GLYNN-SMITH

Backstage at the Ports1961 S/S 14 show

ENLY TIME Omega has added to the Constellationwith the Pluma collection. This versions mother-of-pearlce, diamond indexes and bezel and stainless-steel casecelet are simply stellar. Ring 0845 272 3100 for stockists.

Juicy

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THEAGENDA

JOIN BAZAARAT WORK

Women can achieve extraordinarythings when they work together.

To help play our part in this,Bazaar has launched a series of

exclusive Bazaar At Work events,in association with Omega

Ladymatic, where our readers canhear the stories of inspiring and

inuential women. To nd out moreabout these events, email your

name, job title and place of workto: BazaarAtWork@hearst.co.uk.

The IT crowdAspinal of London has launched the Marylebone

Tech a new version of the popular luxury tote featuringa juice pack battery, so you can charge your phone

and tablet on the move. Genius.Aspinal of London (www.aspinaloondon.com).

GOODVIBRAThomas Sabo h h dBeads as partcollection. Pa h h bohsummer look: h hand pendant d hkaftan-style sh .(www.thomas b

We love this innovative trench, 375, fromWeekendMaxMaras four-piececollectionmadeusingNewLife, ahi-techpolyester fabric produced in Italy by converting recycled plastic

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InsideanewV&AexhibitioncelebratingItalianstyle.Plus: JeanPaulGaultiersgreatesthits;Shakespearegoes to theballet; andThandieNewtons favourite things

BELLA VITA

TALKING POINTS

Edited by AJESH PATALAY

A Dolce &Gabbana lookmodelled for

the August 2012issue of Bazaar

PHOTO

GRAPH:PAOLAKUDACKI

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

I talian fashion in which sim-plicity rubs shoulders withostentation; glitz with wit; andpleasure is the only rule appears tohave been with us for ever. In fact, asthe V&As exhibition The Glamourof Italian Fashion 19452014 reveals,while Latin style may be eternal, itsfashion industry is a relatively recentphenomenon. This was a post-warourishing in which Italys regional-

ism, craftsmanship, family values, powerful women and love of thefemale form all played their part together with a cornucopia ofconker-sized baubles.

And what an exuberant joy this show is. From early Pucci tonewly anointed stars such as Fausto Puglisi, the exhibition revels in

Gucci, Armani, Missoni, Prada, Fendi, Valentino,Versace, Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana. Here isthe Mila Schn silver sequined evening gown andmatelass coat sportedbyPrincessLeeRadziwill tofrolic with Truman Capote at his legendary Black& White Ball of 1966; there is a solemn AudreyHepburn picking shoes from Salvatore Ferragamo.

Sonnet Stanll, the V&As curator of 20th-centuryandcontemporary fashion,hasdevotedveyears to this epic. Asked to dene the nations sarto-rial sensibility, she says: It starts with materials, thequality of its textiles. Italys regional productivedistricts and family traditions play an essential role.But Italian style also embraces polarities: the excessof Versace with Armanis minimalism, the outra-geousness of Dolce with no-logo Bottega Veneta.

STYLE

PASSIONPLAY

Abrilliantnewshowat theV&Acelebrates the joyfulglamourof Italian fashion

By HANNAH BETTS

A Gucci look shot for BazaarsAugust 2011 issue. Right:

Sophia Loren in Emilio FedericoSchuberts atelier in 1957

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Clockwise fromabove: AudreyHepburn with

Salvatore Ferragamoin Florence in 1954.Giambattista ValliA/W 13. Jackie

Kennedys sister LeeRadziwill in MilaSchn with TrumanCapote at his 1966Black & White Ball

There is a playfulness not subversion, but a certainwit or quirkiness, and always a joie de vivre. The word weboth settle upon is sprezzatura, an elegant nonchalance inwhich nothing is too try-hard. Yet, every time you leavethe house, you are dressed as for a performance; a perfor-mance designed to be enjoyed. The image Stanll feelsexemplies this spirit is the Gian Paolo Barbieri photo-graph of a model in a sculpted Gianfranco Ferr whiteshirt, throwing her head back in ecstatic abandon.

This dolce vita euphoria had never felt more necessarythan in the depths of post-war gloom. The impresariobehind the worlds love affair with Italian fashion was oneGiovanni Battista Giorgini, a Florentine who hostedinternational press and buyers for shows rst at his home,thereafter at the celebrated Sala Bianca in FlorencesPalazzo Pitti. After the catwalk came champagne-fuelledballs, guests lavishly bedecked in Italian furs and nery.

America, in particular, fell in love. Italian prices were30 per cent cheaper, thanks to its natural riches in theform of wool, leather and fur. The architects of AmericasMarshall Plan backed the nascent fashion industry, real-ising that a robust Italy would be a strategic ally.

Andso itproved:notmerelyanally, but themostglam-orous of friends. During the Fifties and Sixties, Rome establisheditself as a Hollywood on the Tiber, its Cinecitt studios host toElizabeth Taylor as pharaoh, Audrey Hepburn as runaway princessand Ava Gardner as barefoot contessa. These icons became fashionambassadors, championing an easy glamour in which sandals, silkscarves and sunglasses were worn as casually as jewels in the pool.

But nothing said when in Rome more than sauntering intoBulgaris Via Condotti emporium. Bulgari was the setting for andcurrency of the Burton-Taylor romance during the making ofCleopatra (1963). In February 1962, Eddie Fisher attempted to wooback his wayward wife with 30.97 carats of jewels from the store.Burton immediately trumped his rival by whisking his inamoratastraight to the Via Condotti, where Elizabeth acquired an awesomeemerald and diamond parure, and with it a new husband.

Italian male adornment may have been less ostentatious, but itproved no less sophisticated. Sharp lines,

TALKING POINTS

slim lapels and feather-light fabrics dened thelook. The effect wassleeker and more supple

than Savile Rows corrective tailoring, which used sleight of handto compensate for perceived physical inadequacies. Armani eviscer-ated the jacket, creating something altogether more uid even ifit did rather demand the Adonis-like physique of a young RichardGere in Paul Schraders American Gigolo (1980).

Stanlls research took her to Milans fashion district, home alsoto the citys bankers, whose 9am stroll to work had the look of themost elegant fashion show. On my brothers rst visit to Italy, he wasas awed by its suiting and booting as he was by its art and architec-ture. We sat gazing at Venices nest silver foxes, striving to pin downtheir certain sartorial something. To a man, their garments wereexquisitely textured, leather goods gleaming, a relish of colourpalpable, tailoring razor-honed. Drunk on poise and prosecco,we imbibed the Acqua di Parma-scented air in their wake.

Still, it is the women of the nation to whom we look as the ebul-lient embodiments of La Grande Bellezzachic.As the showcaseestablishes, the fair sexhasdominated Italian fashionnotonly in thewearing of it, but in its creation and trade.Italys seamstress tradition is distinguished,entrepreneurial involvement never seen asdemeaning, regardless of ones rank. FromMilaSchntoMiucciaPrada, thedressmakerMaria Grimaldi to the gilded glamourpussDonatella Versace, Italian women have pro-duced as they have paraded.

Perhaps this is the reason why Italian fashion provesuch a joy: it is understanding of the female form, ready tocelebrate the body rather than starve it, for which thoseof us of an hourglass persuasion remain forever grateful.After all, its most famous beauty, 79-year-old SophiaLoren, maintains: Everything I am, I owe to spaghetti. Andthe ravishing Monica Bellucci, 30 years her junior, brings up herdaughter on pasta and Parmigiano. Italian style queens eat, drink,love and make merry and dress for it with braggadocio.The Glamour of Italian Fashion 19452014 is at the V&A (www.vam.ac.uk)from 5 April. The exhibition is sponsored by Bulgari.

A Dolce & Gabbanalook from BazaarsAugust 2012 issue.Below: lace details

Italian fashion isready tocelebratethebodyratherthanstarve it

April 2014 | HAR P E RS BAZA AR | 151

playful twist on chicFrench classics such ashis nautical stripes; andthe powder-pink cor-seted female torso of hissignaturescent,Classique.

Despite his Parisian upbringing,London has always been an inspiringplace for Gaultier. From the momentI rst visited in the Seventies, I was

blownawayby the freedom, he says. Itwas sodifferent fromFrance.The lack of formality, the creativity and the celebration of culturesblewmymind. I tried to instil all of that into my work from early on.

The Barbican also provides a perfect backdrop forhis incrediblework in lm.He dressedHelenMirren inThe Cook, The Thief, His Wife, and Her Lover; and it washis clothes that gaveLucBessons 1997blockbusterTheFifth Element that chic sci- fantasy look. His closestcollaborator, however, has been his good friend theSpanish lmdirector PedroAlmodvar,withwhomheworked on Kika (1993), Bad Education (2004) and TheSkin I Live In (2011) to brilliant effect.

However, Gaultiers unorthodox approach hasntalwaysbeencelebrated. In1993,hewasadmonished forhis Chic Rabbis collection, inspired by Hasidic Jewishapparel. The fact that the pieces make an unapologeticappearance in the show is a testament to the curation. Fashionsoriginal enfant terrible wouldnt have it any other way.The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk isat the Barbican (www.barbican.org.uk) from 9 April. Bazaars private viewingtakes place on the opening evening; for details, visit harpersbazaar.co.uk/vipevents.

Clockwise from above:Jane Birkin wearingJean Paul Gaultierfor Bazaars June

2010 issue. Madonnasiconic corset. At work

in 1995. Far right:the designer in 2012

TALKINGPOINTS

MASTEROFDISGUISE

FourdecadesofJeanPaulGaultiersbrilliant, transformativedesignsarecelebrated inanewretrospective

By SARA PARKER BOWLES

EXHIBITION

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

Clockwise from below:a Jean Paul Gaultier

look from Bazaars June2010 issue. The designerin his studio in 1995.Dita Von Teese. Withmodels in his designs

J eanPaulGaultier is arguably oneof themost versatile design-ers the fashion world has ever given us. He is also one of themost vibrant: larger than life and impressively energetic forsomeonewhowill soonbe celebratinghis 62ndbirthday.On thedaywe meet, he is buzzing with the fact that a friend has just told himthat Queen Victoria had a tattoo. I dont know where it waz on erbody, he says. But for me, that is the most amaaaaazing fact. I ope,with allmy eart, it is true!His effervescence and natural eloquence,wrapped up in that fantastically thick French accent, are so disarm-ingly familiar in the esh that you feel as if you have known himpersonally for years, which in a funny sort of way we have.

Gaultiers impressive 40-year career he has dressed Madonna,Beyonc, Dita Von Teese, Beth Ditto and Kylie can be attributedto his light touch,masterful tailoring and celebration of the extraor-dinary. As a self-confessed outsider from the suburbs of Paris whoalways felt different from his peers, the young Gaultier showed aprecocious talent for drawing. While the other boys in my schoolwere playing football, I was sketching the girls of the Folies Bergreand watching lms about couturiers, he says.

Through the sensuality of his clothes, his elegantly judgedgender bending and his championingof the unconventional, particularlywhen it comes to his choice of model,Gaultier has made it clear that hebelieves in a broad concept of beauty.The impressive range of collaboratorshe has worked with over the past fourdecades and his ability to slip betweenpopular culture and high art make hiscareer a tting subject for the travel-ling retrospective that opens at theBarbican in London in April.

Gaultiers fame can be attributed tohis instinct for the iconic: the conecorset he made for Madonna; the

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April 2014 | HARPERS BAZAAR | 153

Piet Mondrian (18721944) is best knownfor the stark lines and zingy colours of his

abstract grid paintings. But his earlywork melancholy, impressionistic

landscapes is equally striking. See thedual approaches of the pioneering Dutchartist in two new shows: Mondrian andColour, at Turner Contemporary (www.turnercontemporary.org), from 24May;

and Mondrian and his Studios:Abstraction into theWorld at Tate

Liverpool (www.tate.org.uk), from 6 June.VIOLET HUDSON

O U T S I D ET H E B OX

ART

Raf Simons lendsa couturiers

touch to Kvadrat,the Danish

textile companywhose intensely

coloured woollenfabric rst caught

his eye at JilSander. His d b

homewcollectio

includes alpthrows ancashmere

cushions. Kvad(www.kvadrat.dk).

H I S B R I G H TM AT E R I A L S

DESIG

Book that changed your life The Dramaof Being a Child by Alice Miller.

Tech must-have My beauty blog with my friendand superstar make-up artist Kay Montano:

www.thandiekay.com.Most loved fairy tale The Zimbabwean

folk tale Chivu.Poem known by heart The Sea

and the Skylark by GerardManley Hopkins.

Would sing a duet withBeninoise singer-songwriter

Anglique Kidjo.Guilty pleasure My guilt is too

toxic to feel any pleasure!Whowould play you in a lm?

Whoever Jane Campion chooses.What makes you laugh? My daughter Nico, daily.

Book you would ban The ContentedLittle Baby Book by Gina Ford.

Irrational fear of... fear.Dream lunch date Public Enemys Chuck D.

Worth ghting for An end to violenceagainst women.

T H A N D I E N E W T O N

MY CULTURAL LIFE

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

Favourite destination The north Paciccoastline of Mexico.Signature dance Anything with undulating hips.Brains or beauty A beautiful brain.Money or sex Sex.Grace Kelly or Grace Jones Kelly Jones.

Optimist or pessimist Realist.Style icon The sapeursof Congo.Personal motto Be here now.Most proud of... giving birth.Most inspired by... mistakes.Best piece of advice Get out ofyour mind and into your life.Would like to meet My motherwhen she was a little girl.Favourite villain Plankton

from SpongeBob SquarePants.People are surprised that I worked at theWalmer Castle in Notting Hill at 19. I servedHanif Kureishi and was starstruck as I lovedMy Beautiful Laundrette. He had such sad eyes.Thandie Newton stars in Half of a Yellow Sun, releasednationwide on 21 March.

154 | HAR P E RS BA ZA AR | April 2014

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From top: spongewareshards gathered byEmma Bridgewaterin Oxfordshire.A vintage rosebowl. Her dresser

L ike HP Sauce and Marmite, nothing speaks more vividly ofthe English kitchen than Emma Bridgewaters tableware.Made using traditional techniques and mixed motifs from heritage fowl breeds to pretty polka dots her ceramicshave become popular in farmhouse and townhouse alike. In person,Emma Bridgewater is unassuming, warm and reading a PenelopeFitzgerald book when we met for lunch at the Delaunay brasserie inLondon. (Her degree was in literature.) She describes the rise of hereponymous business as no more than happenstance: A boat I builtin my sleep, then in a moment of delirium boarded and set out on around-the-world trip with no map, or oilskins, or even much ofa picnic. In fact, its genesis came in 1985 when, aged 23, Bridgewaterhad the idea to create a tea cup-and-saucer set for her mothersbirthday, which led her to install a makeshift kiln in her Brixtonbathroom. Twenty-eight years on, her thriving business is run withher husband Matthew Rice and boasts an annual turnover of morethan13million.Manufacturingentirely inBritain fromaVictorianfactory in Stoke-on-Trent, the company has helped breathe life backinto a once-famous trade (so much so that last year she was honoured

with a CBE for services to industry).Her new memoir, Toast & Mar-

malade and Other Stories, tells thestory of her business and is packedwith moving vignettes fromlearning her craft and settup shop in her cousinsChelsea basement, tothe art of cookingperfect bacon. Its partscrapbook, part recipebook, with photos ofthe cluttered ceramicshelves of Bridgewaterworld. The book is also a paeanto a childhood love of adventure aFamous Five for grown-ups and shewrites evocatively of her Oxford-shire upbringing with all its rituals:picnics in bluebell woods andcamping under the stars. Perhaps

most touching is her account of her nervous excitement at seeing herrst samples come back from the factory. Visiting a blanket factoryas a schoolgirl gave Bridgewater her love for the process of manu-facturing. By chasing offshore production and cheap labour, shesays, weve lost sight of how exciting it is to see things being made.

Central to the Bridgewater ethos is family my best company,she says. As a mother of four, she admits she is starting to think about

MADEWITHLOVE

EmmaBridgewatersrstpieceofpotterywasagift forhermotherand,ashermemoir reveals, family remains

at theheartofherbusinessBy REBECCA BROADLEY

BOOKS

Clockwise from above:antique pottery.

A Blue Hen platefrom her range.

Bridgewater at a picnicA mug given to her by

her sister. Far rightsponging equipmen

at the factory

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk April 2014 | HAR P E RS BAZA AR | 155

TALKINGPOINTS

B E AUA

B E A

Botox, dermabrasion and aca modern solution to a 21st-c

the obsession with ageing. B 7 hcentury had its own xations withof youth and beauty, and it is the

at the heart of Viper Wine, Hermionctional reimagining of the life of Ve

Once so lauded that Van Dyck paiVenetias looks have now withered. A

embarks on an obsessive quest to regaibeauty, dabbling with witchcraft, ungue

verdigris and boiled calfs foot. But whenobliged to return to the court of King Char e ,she nds a suspicious smoothness on the faces

of the ladies. Even Olivia Porter, two yearsVenetias senior, looks unnaturally radiant, likea 15-year-old girl who knows too much of life.

Their secret? Daily consumption of viper wine,a concoction said to bestow the same rich

liverishness which restores the vipers skin on thecomplexion of its drinkers. What if the side effectsinclude ague, dropsy, concupiscence and deliriumtremens? It works. And Venetia is soon hooked.Viper Wine will not be to everyones taste. If youlike your history pure, its wilful anachronisms willundo you. JavaScript, Challenger and the Enigmacode all have bit parts; and Venetias husband SirKenelm Digby is a time-travelling privateer whoquotes Bowie and procures a radio mast on one

of his travels that delivers messages from thefuture, including one from Naomi Campbell about

the perils of acid peels. But almost 400 yearsafter Venetia Stanleys death, little has changed.

As an allegory of our ageing-obsessedgeneration, it is hard to argue with.

Viper Wine by Hermione Eyre (12.99, Jonathan Cape)is published on 13 March.

Clockwise from top: aSweet Pea plate fromthe collection. Earlywatercolour designs fromher archive. Casters atthe Stoke-on-Trent factory.A Farmyard plate an early design. Below:a Starry Skies plate

Fermented vipers bultimate anti-ageing

in a new twist on historicBy SAM BAKER

the succession of the business. Bridgewater grew up with threesiblings, and her mother and academic stepfathers Oxford homewas always alive with activity: student lodgers and visiting familyfriends including Alan Bates and Albert Finney gathered roundthe open table. Its this nostalgia that cuts to the heart of the EmmaBridgewater business, with its slogan Feels like home.

Now the brand is reaching beyond the kitchen with an upcomingwallpaper and fabric collaboration with Sanderson, and a bedlinenline for autumn. But it is a testament to Bridgewaters earthiness thatshe has no qualms about admitting, even recommending, the oddlapse in domestic perfection. Its horribly hard, she writes in thebook, to stop judging yourself by the muddle in the airing cupboard,the unironed napkins and pillowcases, the uff under the beds Butfor me it seems helpful to admit defeat sometimes. I do think wedrive ourselves mad with that, she tells me. Isnt it odd how womenpretend to each other that all that stuff is easy? It just seems so cruel.

In 2010, suffering burnout, Bridgewater gave the position of CEOto her husband and design partner, who had co-founded the David

Linley business with his Bedales schoolfriendin the 1980s. The husband and wife are a formi-dable team, sharing duties on the kitchen tablequite often, late at night frequently, arguing ona train; but they seem to have a good time of it.

A new project has been keeping them evenbusier the renovation of a mediaeval gate-house in the Oxfordshire village of Bamptonthat they purchased in 2011. The home recallsthe tumbledown grandeur depicted in DodieSmiths I Capture the Castle. They have nished

the barn conversion, whichBridgewater tted out entirelywith British goods It nearlymade me mad. So goodbye,trusty (Swedish) AGA.

Life in Bampton (where TVcrewsdescendannually tolmvillage scenes for DowntonAbbey) seems as eccentricallyEnglish as they are. Each May,the village erupts with morrisdancing, attracting not onlythe English but also Frenchmorisques and Spanish moriscas,all to Bridgewaters delight.

A road sign stipulates no dancing in the street after midnight,she says, laughing. Last year, one troupe technicallya side danced on her front lawn to the astonishmentof Bridgewaters guests, who had gathered for lunch.A natural hostess who eschews old-fashioned formality,she is rather like her tableware: bright (like her Jubileemugs that celebrated 60 Years a Queen) and witty.

Ever the entrepreneur, her eye is trained on the nextopportunity: lm product placement. I see all the places onscreen where an Emma Bridgewater product should havebeen, she says. Richard Curtis told me his all-time favour-ites are the Bourne lms because he respects any lm that uses aDelia Smith book as a lethal weapon. She pauses. Though I slightlydread one of our mugs being used in a terrible crime scene.Toast & Marmalade and Other Stories by Emma Bridgewater (25, SaltyardBooks) is published on 13 March.

www.harpersbazaar.co.uk

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TALKINGPOINTS

I had a lot of letters and emailsfrom people whod never beento the ballet before and had noidea it could be that fun, says thechoreographer ChristopherWheeldonabout Alices Adventures in Wonderland,his rst full-length work for the RoyalBallet in 2011, which enjoyed hugepopular success. In his search for afollow-up, Wheeldon, a puckish 40-year-old, wanted to be bold. Hisupcoming version of ShakespearesThe Winters Tale promises to be justthat, aiming for mass appeal whileplumbing some altogether darker depths. If Alice was, he says,a romp through a number of well-known episodes, Shakespearestale of jealousy and loss follows a more sustained narrative, fullof sweepingdramaticmoments thatwork reallywell indance, evenif the plays plot is less familiar. This is a ballet where its a good ideato brush up on the story rst, Wheeldon warns.

The show retells the story of Leontes, the King of Sicilia, whofalsely suspects his pregnantwifeHermioneof having an affairwithhis childhood friend Polixenes. Consumed with jealousy, Leontescondemns them both, promptingHermiones supposed death froma broken heart and the disappearance of their newborn daughterPerdita,who is secretlywhiskedaway to theneighbouringkingdom.There, years later, tending her ock as a shepherdess, Perditaensnares the heart of the young prince, Florizel. It was the playsblend of ingredients that appealed to Wheeldon: You get tragic

The Canadian choreographer Crystal Pite bringsThe TempestReplica (based onShakespeares play) to London. It openswith amagical dumbshowbymasked performers. The Tempest Replicais at SadlersWells (www.sadlerswells.com) on 25 and 26 April.

sections, purely romantic sections,folky-inspired movements and thatwonderfully redemptive ending, inwhich Hermiones statue miracu-lously comes to life, restoring thequeen to her repentant husband.

Wheeldon has teamed up againwith his Alice collaborators, the com-poser Joby Talbot and the designerBob Crowley. The latters costumes,says Wheeldon, feel Elizabethan butalso contemporary, in the way thatAlexander McQueen and VivienneWestwood always have a quirky take.And tohonour the playsmost famousstage direction (Exit, pursued by abear), theballets silk-effects designerBasil Twist has fashioned a grizzlyapparition thatwillwell, best not tospoil that surprise. As for Talbotsscore, it eshes out character througha number of recurring motifs, such asthe folksy orchestrations that accom-pany Perdita and Florizel and the use

of a rain stick, its shimmering rattling sound, almost like a snake,played over deep chords to denote Leontes jealous rumblings.

As well as its transformative ending and pastoral interlude, theplays early scenes lend themselves particularly well to choreog-raphy. The big operatic moments are clearly physical, Wheeldonsays, and I can imagine creating a pas de deux betweenLeontes andHermione in which he threatens her and mistreats her and shespregnant, and it being disturbing and upsetting. Dance will onlyaccentuateherpregnantform,heighteningthejeopardyandmakingsome interesting shapes. Thats something so interesting about bal-lerinas, Wheeldon adds. They dance right up to [a few] weeksbefore giving birth. Actually, pregnant women get quite a burst ofenergy. Some people have said, Arent you worried about howits going to look, [Hermione] en pointe and with the movement? Ithink, not really, since [as a dancer] Ive been around it all my life.The Winters Tale runs for 11 performances from 10 April to 8 May at theRoyal Opera House (020 7304 4000; www.roh.org.uk). The production will bebroadcast live into cinemas worldwide on 28 April (www.roh.org.uk/cinemas).

ChoreographerChristopherWheeldoncaptures theromance

and lossofShakespearesTheWintersTale

By AJESH PATALAY

MOVING ANDTELLING

BALLET

PERFECT STORMDANCE

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www.harpersbazaar.co.uk158 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

HOROSCOPES

CAPRICORN22 December 20 JanuaryTry to keep a partnership or marital problem away from friends orfamily. Youre about to have discussions that will contain intimatedetails. You dont want to say anything that cant be unsaid later.Be careful about choosing the right time to be unusually candid.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Cheap things are not good;good things are not cheap.

SAGITTARIUS23 November 21 DecemberOne or two people might be right when they point out that yourmore creative ideas are likely to come at quite a high cost. Butprovided youre willing to pick up the bills yourself, theyve reallynothing to worry about. So refuse to be dissuaded from spoilingyourself and someone close.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Blood can boil without re.

SCORPIO24 October 22 NovemberThough you wont want to boast about the work youve done, itwill do no harm to remind people that youve achieved more thanthey have. Youre in danger of being taken for granted by thosewho have no right to share the spoils of everything youve achieved.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Its the person with burned ngerswho invests in tongs.

LIBRA24 September 23 OctoberYou may assume you can juggle professional and personal issues, butby the time Jupiter opposes Pluto on 20 April, youll realise you mustfocus on one area. Will people think less of you for not multi-tasking?No. Theyll be relieved that youre doing the sensible thing.MOTTO OF THE MONTH If you govern yourself well,you can govern the world.

VIRGO24 August 23 SeptemberIf moneys been burning a hole in your pocket, you need to practisegreater self-discipline. But thats not to say you have to be mean.Someone close needs to be pampered. Your generosity of spirit mayhave to make up for a shortage of funds. Dont let it cramp your style.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Why shake the tree if the fruitis falling off by itself?

LEO24 July 23 AugustYoull feel obliged to take on challenging responsibilities that ought tobring huge rewards. But whos to say what you should or shouldntdo? Those insisting that you must become an overnight successdont know you well. Try telling them what youre really all about.MOTTO OF THE MONTH If you do what youve always done,youll get what youve always been given.

CANCER22 June 23 JulyLoved ones may be surprised at the extent to which you suddenlywant to rethink your home or family life. Youll be responding toa Lunar Eclipse occurring in mid-April, forcing you to face up to anumber of truths youve previously avoided. Rather than be fearfulof a fresh start, youll positively embrace it.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Custom often makes the best law.

GEMINI22 May 21 JuneRomance and escapism might have been in short supply recently,but youre about to be compensated for all those occasions whenyouve had to focus on the more serious side of life while othershave had all the fun. Will the long wait prove to be worthwhile?Without a doubt. Make no secret of it.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Cheat the Earth and the Earth will cheat you.

TAURUS21 April 21 MayEveryday chores might not appeal but youll realise theres much tobe gained by doing what needs to be done. And youll crave a senseof achievement. If by mid-April youve caught up with a backlog ofwork, you can start anticipating daring new ventures. But not before.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Deviate an inch and youcould lose a thousand miles.

ARIES21 March 20 AprilDevelopments within every aspect of your life will be accelerated byUranus confronting Jupiter and Pluto. So dont assume you can resteasy. Perhaps not everyone will respond well to enforced changes but you will, even if you have to burn the midnight oil for a while.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Dont speak unless you canimprove on the silence.

AQUARIUS21 January 19 FebruaryWhen your sixth sense tells you to remind others to take greatercare of themselves, youve no option but to do it. Yes, youll beafraid of sounding bossy and interfering, but it would be evenworse if you were to remain silent and allow those involved torun some kind of risk. Speak up.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Those who always give will always have.

For weekly updates, visit www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/horoscopes

Thefuturerevealed:youressentialguidetoAPRIL By PETER WATSON

PISCES20 February 20MarchFrustrating though it may be, youll have to accept that some smalljourneys or signicant meetings must be postponed. However,someone close will realise how much it would mean for you to beable to make one especially exciting move. Around the time ofthe Solar Eclipse in late April, therell be no holding you back.MOTTO OF THE MONTH Count not what is lost but what is left.

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APRIL 2014

FENDI, PUCCI, DOLCE

to theManhattan cool of SARAHJESSICAPARKER,

to the grace of theROYALBALLET dancers photographed in Covent Garden,

we celebrate the many faces of fashion this month

From the all-out Italian glamour of

fromKARLLAGERFELDsParisian purrfection

Sarah Jessica Parkerwears organza dress,about 3,525, ZacPosen. Pink gold andpav diamond ring,14,000, Bulgari

Shesaninternationalstarwhogoes incognito inherhometown.Shesa fashionmavenwhosecloset isamess.

Shesachampionofsexual liberationwhosbeenhappilymarriedfor16years.Theresonlyonewaytodiscover therealSarahJessicaParker

Start fromtheshoesup

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

BY AVRIL MAIR

STYLED BY MIRANDA ALMOND

SOULMATE

hes themost emblematic NewYorker ofher era, but on a dank afternoon in late winter, Sarah Jessica Parkerenters a busy diner off Broadway and slides unnoticed into a boothat the back. A waitress hurries across with a glass of hot water and asaucer of lemon slices, which she places silently in front of the48-year-old, who smiles her thanks and says thats so lovely as sheremoves the bulky puffa jacket, woollen hat and oversize sunglassesthat serve asbotha shield against theweather andadisguise to avoidtheholidaycrowds that throngher city. Shes a regularhere, and so thestaff recognise theircustomer, thoughtheotherdinersdont even lookup from their pastrami. This is how Parker prefers it. She has walkedto our meeting alone, and leaves 90minuteslater without fuss, out into a day turnedgloomy with rain, a small woman bundledinto an unremarkable outt who carries theremains of her lunch in a brown paper bag.

I never wanted to be famous, she says.And I wont trade on it in any way. Its notlike its hard to be respectful and wellbehaved. Once, asked for aDianaVreeland-style pronouncement about moderncelebrity, Parker replied: Why dont yoube decent? Shed probably choose to ignorethe whole idea of celebrity, if she could describing herself as an actress, stageperformer, producer, campaigner, fund-raiser, Unicef ambassador, wife and motherof three. To thatwe could add style icon: shehas ve fragrances, a beauty contract withGarnier and a couple of stints as a designer under her belt.With hercharm and graciousness, what shes emphatically not is the sex col-umnist Carrie Bradshaw dont confuse the woman with thewardrobe though the long-running Sex and the City (six years onTV, plus two follow-up movies) earned Parker $30 million in 2010,making her Americas highest-paid actress and a fashion star, andturning her into a cultural force for a generation of young women.

There can really beno repositioning after this, thoughParkerhastried other movies, a well-received stint in a play loosely based onthe Madoff scandal, another HBO series about older women indevelopment, a focus on bringing up her young family away fromthe spotlight. The truth is, she doesnt dene herself by that successin Sex and the City, though she is gracious enough to indulge thecontinued obsession of everyone else who does: Im very atteredby the connection with women, of course I am. But still, she lovesfashion though I dont have the Carrie Bradshaw devotion to it and fashion loves her, sowhywaste an opportunity?And so Parkers

latest role is shoe designer, collaborating with George Malkemus,CEO of Manolo Blahnik, a label she put rmly on the fashion map.Having played this character for so long who had such a loveof shoes and, you know, some might say a reckless desire tohave them I just thought, This is what Id really like to do now.I called him and said, I have this crazy idea

In celebrationof the line, calledSJP,whichwas recently launchedatNordstrom andbecause Parker is as closely linked to her fashionchoices asCarrieBradshaw theres only one thing todo.And thatsask her about shoes

THE SHOES IM WEARING NOWTheyre just foul-weather boots. Im sorry! There is an expectation,of course, that Sarah Jessica Parker will be Carrie Bradshaw whenyou meet her or that she will at least look the part. But althoughshe throws herself into dressing upwith enthusiasmwhen the occa-sion or red carpet demands, her priority on a daily basis is to passthrough the city unnoticed. Im not sure how else I would live, shesays. I get the subway to work. I take my kids to school. Not every-bodys interested, and when they are, generally its not intrusive.People are kind, mostly. But if Im with my kids, I always say I canttake a picture because I dont want to muddy those waters. Its easyto forget that this is oneof themost famouswomen inAmerica. Sheschatty, unstarry, easy to like. Shes also clever and we discuss theLeveson Inquiry at length (a rst for anA-list interview, inmy expe-rience being a celebrity in this mad, mad world usually means

abandoning reality insteadof engagingwithit). Despite this, Parker doesnt care whatyou think of her. I dont read anything, shesays. I dont Google myself. Good God, no!I have absolutely no constitution for that. Imcurious about everything, except whatpeople have to say aboutme. Its the randomcruelty I really dont understand. Its notgood for us. I dont know, you know, howwego back in time to a better place.

THE FIRST SHOES I WOREWewent to the shoe store twice ayearwhenIwas young. In those days, even a family likeours that didnt havemoney still had qualityshoes. We were told what to buy theyalways had a thick leather sole and aT-strapwith holes poked out on the front. I didnt

have a pair of proper heels until I left home. Its common knowledgethatParkerdidntgrowupwithprivilege.ShewasborninNelsonville,an Ohio mining town, one of eight siblings and half-siblings, andher childhood was dened by divorce and struggle. My motherwas chic but we were broke, she says. Inside the house was chaosand madness. Its this upbringing, however, thats responsible forher impressive work ethic she appeared in a TV productionof The Little Match Girl aged eight and has been acting ever since aswell as an uncommon sense of decency andhumility. I appreciateeverything, she says. I think that there are probably a lot of peoplethat dont care as much, and it all still works for them. But I canthavemynameon something andnot be totally involved. It can oftenmake things really hard but thats simply the way I have to be.

THE SHOES I WORE TO GET MARRIEDThey were a pair of Robert Clergerie teal-coloured velvet shoeswith not a very high heel at all. They werent fancy. I mean,

SMymotherwaschicbutwewere

broke. Insidethehousewaschaos

andmadnesswww.harpersbazaar.co.uk164 | HARPERS BAZAAR | April 2014

Lace dress,10,440, Valentino.Metal earrings, about60, Alexis Bittar

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

Satin-backed crepe dresswith chiffon detail, 10,405,Jason Wu. Headpiece (worn

throughout), stylists own

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

THIS PAGE: sequindress, 6,525, SaintLaurent by HediSlimane. Metal bracelet,about 185, Alexis Bittar.OPPOSITE: jacquarddress, from a selection,Dior. Patent shoes,about 220, SJP